Bowser does still have the reference page online, and it shows how the valve gear fits together: www.bowser-trains.com/docs/instructions/OldLadyRef.pdf As for the timing, the eccentrics should lean 15 degrees forward.
Bowser still has them available: www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/15949704/Bowser%20RIVET%20TOOL%20-%20H-36 The shipping cost is pretty high, so it might be more worth it to get one with a few other things.
All the US companies making steam engine kits like this have stopped, but there are still a few European kit manufacturers like DJH, AMF87 and London Road Models. For diesels, Hobbytown of Boston is still around.
@@DarthSantaFe Darth, what's your view on these open frame motors oriented by an angle to mesh with the axle gear? is it worth re-motoring with a can motor? Could you comment on how to orient the angle when remotoring? thanks!
@@chlsjtu A lot of these open-frame motors run well enough that I don't consider remotoring to be necessary. A lot of times, a cheap magnet upgrade will bring them up to the running standards of a good quality can motor! When replacing with a can motor though, how to orient the motor can depend on the space available. When you can get by with a smaller motor, sometimes you can carefully seat is with a block and some silicon bath sealant. For larger motors though, if you don't have a very long shaft, a full enclosed gearbox (like the ones from NWSL) might be needed to go with it.
Over the years I built several Bowser kits and Mantua. A lot of fun. Sad they are not around anymore and Bowser doesn't support them.
Nice video! Valve gear is the one thing about building steam locomotives that I didn’t like. Now I don’t feel as intimidated by it.
Beautifully done and explained. Thanks for sharing and regards from 🇪🇸!
Your a very skilled person. Do you know how to use the NWSL quartering tool? If so a video would be so helpful!
Thanks! My recent brass 4-6-4 restoration video shows how to use the quartering tool. You’ll also want the NWSL puller and then a pressing tool.
Great work !
Darth i will like to ask where to find a tool for the hex screws in the steam locos. Wheels i can not find a 2.23 mm for them any ideas?
A 3/32” driver should do the job.
Hey do you have the full drawings for this version valve gears along with timings.
Bowser does still have the reference page online, and it shows how the valve gear fits together: www.bowser-trains.com/docs/instructions/OldLadyRef.pdf
As for the timing, the eccentrics should lean 15 degrees forward.
im late to this..but where do i get a rivet tool?
Some kits will include them, but Bowser still has them available too: bowserorders.com/product/bowser-rivet-tool-h-36-list-price-2-5-sku-1-36/
Where can I get the rivet tool
Bowser still has them available: www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/15949704/Bowser%20RIVET%20TOOL%20-%20H-36
The shipping cost is pretty high, so it might be more worth it to get one with a few other things.
Does any company still make locomotive kits or did they all stop
All the US companies making steam engine kits like this have stopped, but there are still a few European kit manufacturers like DJH, AMF87 and London Road Models. For diesels, Hobbytown of Boston is still around.
@@DarthSantaFe Darth, what's your view on these open frame motors oriented by an angle to mesh with the axle gear? is it worth re-motoring with a can motor? Could you comment on how to orient the angle when remotoring? thanks!
@@chlsjtu A lot of these open-frame motors run well enough that I don't consider remotoring to be necessary. A lot of times, a cheap magnet upgrade will bring them up to the running standards of a good quality can motor! When replacing with a can motor though, how to orient the motor can depend on the space available. When you can get by with a smaller motor, sometimes you can carefully seat is with a block and some silicon bath sealant. For larger motors though, if you don't have a very long shaft, a full enclosed gearbox (like the ones from NWSL) might be needed to go with it.