I want to draw attention to and strongly commend your decision to carefully and completely buff components like the rods. When I did likewise on my fleet I added a final step of buffing in a tiny bit of an appropriate wax, both for improved performance and to prevent recurrence of the oxidizing. It only takes a minute. I learned a lot of useful things as a Navy machinist's mate. One of them is that any oxidized component coming into contact with another component, especially when moving alongside each other, needs serious attention. Even the smallest area of oxidization in something as large as a ship's main engineering plant will immediately become a source of granular abrasive. No matter how fine that abrasive might be, you don't want that anywhere it can be avoided and prevented. The inevitable result of the presence of an abrasive is unnecessary and unwanted wear to the components and deteriorating operation. In fact, in very small components, the result of that abrasion can be just as damaging as something like throwing a handful of sand into a ship's reduction gears. Abrasion causes more abrasion, with a cascading, damaging effect. The rods on the locomotive you used as an example are not likely to wear through completely unless the problem goes untended for years. However, the presence of an abrasive will immediately result in "gumming up the works," so to speak. Bearing housings and bearing surfaces, axles and other components will suffer. It will require more power to turn the components, and the wear may result in misalignment problems that, in such small components, begins to show up quickly in poor operating characteristics. Gathering clumps of abrasives will drop to the tracks, increasing cleaning needs and diminishing good current flow. I have a few older steamers where the gear hangs through the bottom plate, as it does in your example. I fashioned plastic covers for those openings, to prevent introducing track-borne and axle gunk inside the gearing. It cost a few minutes of effort and a few cents in plastic sheet. There's no substitute for good construction, lubrication and subsequent maintenance. I have some old junker engines that continue to operate well long past their expected service lives. My entire fleet has received carefully planned and executed maintenance and minor (at least) upgrades focusing on improved performance and durability. My 35-year-old engines run as well as my brand new ones, some better. Great video production, great content. Bravo you!
I've been working on a Bowser Northern for a while now (couple years), so at least some of the running gear is the same. I'll be using this when I get around to riveting all of it together, thanks for the in- depth tutorial!
This is just the tutorial I needed to start work on an old Docksider kit I bought several years ago, as I got the valve gear detail kit for it. Now I need to find a rivet tool, though. Cheers from Wisconsin!
I was told, once, a technique to getting rivets to flare out but to not get them too tight: use typewriter paper. You were supposed to lay a sheet of typewriter paper over the hollow end of the rivet which was sticking up through the hole of the two parts to be joined. Press the paper down by hand so that the rivet punched a hole in the paper. Then use the rivet tool to flare the rivet. Finally tear out the paper. The almost always produced a perfect rivet (supposedly). Obviously this technique is from the typewriter era. The point of using that kind of paper is that is was just fractionally thicker and slightly stronger than, say, notebook paper. I've never actually tried this myself.
By lubricating the valve gear and rods before painting, do I create problems with paint adhesion? Great job and appreciate ur effort in videoing/editing this project.
It’s fine to have a little oil in the joints before painting as long as the exposed surfaces are clean. The oil will prevent the paint from getting inside the joints, helping it to work more smoothly with minimal cleaning after.
I do like what you have presented her. Very talented and patient. However, I suggest that you get a "Card Fill" and clean your files to remove the build-up of material, as well as you are only to push a file and not pull it. Something my father taught me many years ago. I hope you take these states as suggestions and not in a deeming way.
Thanks! I do clean my files out now and then to keep them working well. Pushing the file does work to take material off faster, but the pulling motion helps me when I'm trying to shape an area.
With all I'm doing, this kit might take me about 20 or 25 hours of work in total. The two videos I've done so far cover about 5 or 6 hours of actual work. If you've never built a kit, you can expect to spend a few extra hours learning along the way.
@@DarthSantaFe Wow that is a long time,well I am new to the hobby and I do like to learn new things,you have inspired me to build kits so yeah I'll totally expect a few hours on my plate
@@princenoah1950 If you can find a simpler kit like an 0-6-0 from Mantua/Tyco or Roundhouse, that should only take a few hours of careful work to finish. They're good starter kits with a lot fewer parts than this one.
These kits are out of production, but they can be found sometimes on eBay or from old collections at model railroad sales. (Traducido por Google) Estos kits están fuera de producción, pero a veces se pueden encontrar en eBay o en colecciones antiguas en las ventas de maquetas de trenes.
I want to draw attention to and strongly commend your decision to carefully and completely buff components like the rods. When I did likewise on my fleet I added a final step of buffing in a tiny bit of an appropriate wax, both for improved performance and to prevent recurrence of the oxidizing. It only takes a minute. I learned a lot of useful things as a Navy machinist's mate. One of them is that any oxidized component coming into contact with another component, especially when moving alongside each other, needs serious attention. Even the smallest area of oxidization in something as large as a ship's main engineering plant will immediately become a source of granular abrasive. No matter how fine that abrasive might be, you don't want that anywhere it can be avoided and prevented.
The inevitable result of the presence of an abrasive is unnecessary and unwanted wear to the components and deteriorating operation. In fact, in very small components, the result of that abrasion can be just as damaging as something like throwing a handful of sand into a ship's reduction gears. Abrasion causes more abrasion, with a cascading, damaging effect.
The rods on the locomotive you used as an example are not likely to wear through completely unless the problem goes untended for years. However, the presence of an abrasive will immediately result in "gumming up the works," so to speak. Bearing housings and bearing surfaces, axles and other components will suffer. It will require more power to turn the components, and the wear may result in misalignment problems that, in such small components, begins to show up quickly in poor operating characteristics. Gathering clumps of abrasives will drop to the tracks, increasing cleaning needs and diminishing good current flow.
I have a few older steamers where the gear hangs through the bottom plate, as it does in your example. I fashioned plastic covers for those openings, to prevent introducing track-borne and axle gunk inside the gearing. It cost a few minutes of effort and a few cents in plastic sheet.
There's no substitute for good construction, lubrication and subsequent maintenance. I have some old junker engines that continue to operate well long past their expected service lives. My entire fleet has received carefully planned and executed maintenance and minor (at least) upgrades focusing on improved performance and durability. My 35-year-old engines run as well as my brand new ones, some better.
Great video production, great content. Bravo you!
I've been working on a Bowser Northern for a while now (couple years), so at least some of the running gear is the same. I'll be using this when I get around to riveting all of it together, thanks for the in- depth tutorial!
This is just the tutorial I needed to start work on an old Docksider kit I bought several years ago, as I got the valve gear detail kit for it. Now I need to find a rivet tool, though. Cheers from Wisconsin!
I’m glad the video helped! Bowser might still have the tool available.
@@DarthSantaFe Thanks, they do!
Only one in a million...!!!
mostly of us, imposible to do that you are very talented man....
Congratulations !!!?
You make it look so easy...
Well you have more patience than I have, your doing a great job.
You find out how much patience you have, when something goes "ping" and you have to spend hours on your hands and knees trying to find it!
Thanks for sharing 👍♐
I was told, once, a technique to getting rivets to flare out but to not get them too tight: use typewriter paper. You were supposed to lay a sheet of typewriter paper over the hollow end of the rivet which was sticking up through the hole of the two parts to be joined. Press the paper down by hand so that the rivet punched a hole in the paper. Then use the rivet tool to flare the rivet. Finally tear out the paper. The almost always produced a perfect rivet (supposedly). Obviously this technique is from the typewriter era. The point of using that kind of paper is that is was just fractionally thicker and slightly stronger than, say, notebook paper. I've never actually tried this myself.
By lubricating the valve gear and rods before painting, do I create problems with paint adhesion? Great job and appreciate ur effort in videoing/editing this project.
It’s fine to have a little oil in the joints before painting as long as the exposed surfaces are clean. The oil will prevent the paint from getting inside the joints, helping it to work more smoothly with minimal cleaning after.
I do like what you have presented her. Very talented and patient. However, I suggest that you get a "Card Fill" and clean your files to remove the build-up of material, as well as you are only to push a file and not pull it. Something my father taught me many years ago. I hope you take these states as suggestions and not in a deeming way.
Thanks! I do clean my files out now and then to keep them working well. Pushing the file does work to take material off faster, but the pulling motion helps me when I'm trying to shape an area.
You should do an articulated steam locomotive
I actually did the Challenger a long time ago. I might have to put it in a video sometime.
how long does it take to build a kit like this one? I'm curious because I actually want to build model kit someday
With all I'm doing, this kit might take me about 20 or 25 hours of work in total. The two videos I've done so far cover about 5 or 6 hours of actual work. If you've never built a kit, you can expect to spend a few extra hours learning along the way.
@@DarthSantaFe Wow that is a long time,well I am new to the hobby and I do like to learn new things,you have inspired me to build kits so yeah I'll totally expect a few hours on my plate
@@princenoah1950 If you can find a simpler kit like an 0-6-0 from Mantua/Tyco or Roundhouse, that should only take a few hours of careful work to finish. They're good starter kits with a lot fewer parts than this one.
Dónde se compra el kit
These kits are out of production, but they can be found sometimes on eBay or from old collections at model railroad sales.
(Traducido por Google)
Estos kits están fuera de producción, pero a veces se pueden encontrar en eBay o en colecciones antiguas en las ventas de maquetas de trenes.