Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
How To Perfectly Lay Track On Curves - Layout Building From Start To Finish Part 5 | jlwii2000
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2011
- In this Part 5 of our Layout Building series, we delve into the specifics of laying track on curves and creating your own terminal joiners. For great prices and customer service, check out: www.trainworld.com
This step-by-step tutorial aims to guide model railroad enthusiasts on how to effectively work on curved tracks for a smooth-running railway.
The video is about "How To Perfectly Lay Track On Curves - Layout Building From Start To Finish Part 5" but also tries to cover:
Crafting terminal joiners
Handling curved tracks
Step-by-step construction
TITLE : How To Perfectly Lay Track On Curves - Layout Building From Start To Finish Part 5 | jlwii2000
✅ Subscribe To My Channel For More Videos: / jlwii2000
✅ Important Links:
👉 Trainworld Website: www.trainworld...
✅ Stay Connected With Me:
👉 Instagram: / jlwreviews
👉 Facebook: / hoscaleproductreviews
==============================
✅ Other Videos You Might Be Interested In Watching:
👉 Exclusive Access: Inside Look At Lionel Trains Headquarters And Warehouse! | jlwii2000
• Exclusive Access: Insi...
👉 How To Measuring Curves - Layout Building From Start To Finish Part 4 | jlwii2000
• How To Measuring Curve...
👉 How To Ballast Track HO - Layout Building From Start To Finish Part 12 | jlwii2000
• How To Ballast Track H...
👉 Scaletrains Vs Intermountain: Ultimate Et44ac Tier 4 Gevos Battle | jlwii2000
• Scaletrains Vs Intermo...
=============================
✅ About jlwii2000:
When I started my channel I did not choose a catchy name because I did not think that I would be a major model railroading video source one day, so I apologize for the strange name. My channel has a variety of info about Model Railroading in many scales, primarily HO scale. I try to respond to everyone's questions to help them along with their journey. Overall, I hope my relaxed yet descriptive approach to modeling will assist those new and old in this great hobby. - James
For Collaboration and Business inquiries, please use the contact information below:
📩 Email: jlwreviews@gmail.com
🔔 Subscribe to my channel for more videos: / jlwii2000
=====================
#tracklaying #layoutbuilding #modelrailway #curvedtracks #terminaljoiners #railroadconstruction
Disclaimer: We do not accept any liability for any loss or damage which is incurred from you acting or not acting as a result of reading any of our publications. You acknowledge that you use the information we provide at your own risk. Do your own research.
Copyright Disclaimer: Under Section 107 of the Copyright Act 1976, allowance is made for "fair use" for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing. Non-profit, educational or personal use tips the balance in favor of fair use
© jlwii2000
![[Paris Olympics] Performance by Australia's Olympic Break-dancer Rachael Gunn breaks the internet](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i1rl1KhKIjE/mqdefault.jpg)
Yeah, and maybe if more of those "professionals" made how-to videos, the complainers would have a case. But as it now stands you have one of the best model railroad instructional videos on You Tube. Keep up the good work, dude; it's really appreciated.
Don't pay attention to the naysayers. I have learned a lot from your vids. It's easier to listen to a "non professional" speak.
You have a great way of explaining, we get to see a "real" person do things, learning at the same time.
This series is a great idea and I wish you every success.
Thanks for sharing.
just starting off in the world of model railroad, i have small space to work in but these videos are are great help, UK loves you!
I can't understand why somebody would give you a world of pain for trying to show people what YOU are doing ... other than the fact I know some persons just have to be "Mr. Perfect". Keep on going; yours may not be the perfect way to do it, but, you are getting it done. GOOD LUCK and Thank You.
I know this video is 6 years old but I really appreciate the fact that you ARE a beginner and are documenting everything. I've never done any of this and you seem to understand that. Professionals have a tendancy to take a lot of info for granted...as 'common knowledge'...and jump right into it. I love your series...THANK YOU!!
Yeah I love that you are doing these videos I'm looking to build my first train layout and I have no clue where to start and the person who was in my family passed away 7 years ago and I have a layout but can't use it yet because the house it's in is not my grandma's yet , so long story short I'm going to build one and your videos are a big help , THANKS!
The part where you said that you are not a professional that is the best part I have just started doing N scale tracks and this is helping me out so much I want to thank you for the time to show beginners the steps. I know there is not a whole lot of females out there doing trains but I have always wanted one every since I could remember and for me to learn with your help makes it where I wont get frustrated with this whole project thank you once again.
Magic
YOU ARE ABLE TO GET PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THIS HOBBY KEEP DOING IT DON'T LET COMMENTS AND NEGATIVE FEEDBACK VERY INTERESTING AND INFORMATIVE THANK YOU I APPRECIATE YOU AND YOUR INFORMATION AND VIDEO. YOU ARE AWESOME. 😁👍
I think you are doing a great job on your layout ,this is the only way to learn so keep going all the best Alan .G
I hear you mention that you get crap from more experienced railroaders. Don't worry about them. Some people forget that everyone was new once. On top of that just because a person can do something doesn't mean can teach it. I think you a great job explaining what you are doing.
Excellent video. I like the way you're not showing "how it should be done" but "this is how I do it and it works for me". Everybody has to start somewhere and your video gives a great starting point. If someone comes up with a better way, then they should upload a video. Nobody is perfect and there are more ways to skin a cat. Keep up the good workand ignore negative comments.
I'm doing a major expansion and came across this video, great info that I didn't think of. Thanks now I'm a sub!
I totally agree with the other guys. You explain things in a language we can all understand.Part 5 of the series answered all my questions about laying long sections of track.I use a set of hemostats.They make great heat sinks for soldering rail and are also handy for holding small parts. Since Radio Shack in Canada no longer exists,I found that the small wires found inside cat.5 cable makes excellent track feeders.Keep up the good work.
Don't listen to the negative people, I am enjoying the series.
I personally am enjoying your videos! I'm a newbie myself at MRR, but have extensive knowledge in Electronics, soldering, wood working, general hobbying. So, it's just great to see some of the different techniques that people are using to get the job done! Thanks for sharing!
I have to say THANK YOU for your videos. My 8yo son decided the ONLY thing he wanted for xmas was to build a model train set. I figured how hard can it be, right? Yeah well. I found myself lost very quickly. So many choices, so many 'only right way' to do it, a completely different language to learn. And when I discovered -holy cow that's FOAM under there! Duh, of course!- a whole bunch of things made sense. But those little details often go unmentioned, and you don't see it on these finished sets. In your videos I get those little details. Which rail on the inside - that prob just saved me $ and a headache. Your vid's are slow paced, informative, and humble. I like that.
Excellent series James! I love how you relate to all kinds of folks.
Keep up the good work, I admire that you are making a vid and showing your mistakes for others to learn from.
All I would add is, like others have said, use flux. Its cheap, easy to use and makes a much stronger join. Also to heat the rail and not the solder, which will flow into and towards the flux
You think YOU'RE new to this....I am still watching videos, like yours, trying to figure out if I even want to try. I love trains, love the model trains.....but I am SO new, I have nothing, but a thought in my mind. Your stuff is very helpful....I watch those 'veteran' model railroader vids also and I do wish they'd not assume their way is the best and only way cause it serves only to push guys like me away from beginning. Your vids on the other hand, are encouraging. Still sitting on the fence....but I do hope you'll keep cranking this stuff out.....my confidence is building.
Its realy starting to come together, keep em comming! Looking great!
Hey Mate, just have to say good on you and don't worry about the haters!!!
I have just started to look around at potentially creating a model railway and your videos are great. For someone just starting out it is nice to see the do's and don'ts and that others make mistakes and who cares if it is not how the professionals do it, how do you become a professional if you don't try things to see what does or doesn't work. Keep it up!!!
I think what you do is great . Thank you for sharing all your tips and ideas. Keep up the good work . We need more people like you in this the World greatest hobby .
in the uk we call people who think they know it all and whats right and whats wrong we call them rivet counters just tell them to go and do one .your series is ok. thing is every one as to learn. keep it up
your video is have helped me learn a lot I'm very new at this been trying to learn how to do all the layouts and making the mountains and things like that everyone is a beginner and there's nothing wrong with sharing when someone is a beginner so that people can either help them or someone can learn from them I think you're doing a great job
I think your doing a great job of explaining what you are doing. Please keep posting your videos. There is a lot to explain and a lot to learn. I am still learning and i am on my 4th layout
Like BigUnitBeef said, heat the rail with the soldering gun then apply the solder to the rail. By using the tip of the gun to melt the solder, you create a cold joint, which doesnt give you as good of an electrical connection, and is also why the joints are popping apart. Keep up the good work.
Looks good. Keep you the good work. old timers are always going to say "your doing it wrong" just because they are set in their ways. Again Thanks!!!
Good job in build the HO scale layout.
Flex tracks with concrete ties.
24" curves for autoracks.
I am new to this and just getting started on model railroading, you're videos have been most helpful...
I'm new to the hobby and stumbled upon this series. It is clear from your videos that you are not perfect - and neither am I! I absolutely would have bought the wrong foam and made more mistakes without seeing your series. Thank you very much.
Hey bud...good job so far.You just do what your doing and never mind the negative people.You are going to learn as you go and make mistakes along the way.You admitted that in the beginning so no big surprise if and when it happens.Keep the videos coming.
You are doing a great job! Very interesting. Don't let the grumpy old rivet counters get you down. Bunch of jerks.
Dude... these videos are awesome. I stumbled on them while searching how to lay flex track on youtube... I'm fairly new to this myself ... and I'm currently planning a benchwork layout. its nice to see things in the perspective of other newbies, and not having some old timer make things sound so damn complicated. thanks a bunch for taking the time to do these videos... I've watched all of them more than once now. Cheers!
Love your series so far. I am still in the very beginning of pre-planning of my N-Scale Layout. but the principles you are showing, completely transcend scale sizes. I love your tutorials. Thanks. Gives me something to shoot for, because I am not spending a boat load of money on Uni-Track or EZ Track just for a small convenience factor.
Nice Job with the Series !!!! ... Gives Beginners like me a great idea as to how things work !!! .. Thanks a ton !!! & keep up the good Work !!! :-)
Now if only i had all the great Loco's that you do !! ;-)
You are doing a good job. I belong to a train club in Tulsa & all of our experts have their own tips & tricks. If it works continue, if not, adjust & retry. Carry on- Wise Al
Thank you for the series - just starting on model railways and these videos are a great help - thank you
Great series, I am also a newb at model railroading and am building my own layout. There are things that you are doing that I may not necessarily have done, but I like seeing those differences as it gives me ideas that I may want to implement or alternative techniques as well as well known things not covered by experts. I think your series has more value for me as I see the things a beginner would do (mistakes as well) and learn from them. Keep up the great work and never mind the cork sniffers.
Awesome videos. I now want to build one after seeing this series! Thanks again.
I like your videos... much more easy to understand , being a a first timer myself this helps. keep and the good work and thanks
and one more tip.when all the track is laid and secure..run your finger over each oval,clockwise and counter clockwise to see if your finger snags on any joint..then just lightly file the problem joint smooth...that will help lessen derailments..just be careful filing because some rails are hollow and you don't want a void.
Excellent video everybody has to start some where and you are doing an awesome job!!! Thanks for sharing!
I thought what you said made perfect sense. Thanks for taking the time to video your method.
when i did my first layout i used atlas rail connectors with the wire already installed..less soldering and a bit faster...I think what you doing is fine,everybody has their own ways and even the guys that have done hundreds of layouts learn something new on each one,so keep at it.oh and one tip is apply solder to your iron first..then hold iron to the rail and let it heat up and then touch the solder to the rail not the iron.
you are doing a fine job man it looks good! dont listen to the haters man they are annoying you are doin great! I really think the concrete ties will look awesome!
It is an old video....but....deserves a comment...
Never mind the idiot criticisms.....you are doing good and being honest....
Use liquid flux when soldiering....
Thxs for the video!
your videos are awesome really helpful
what a great job your doing keep up the good work cant wait for more vid...Alan
Great vid, as usual! Thanks for all your help!
I have been trying to learn more about track laying as it has been many years since I did it. I did see someone use a purchased block you can run along the track to make it curve. The more times he ran it over the more curved it become. Said it also insured the rails kept gage spacing.
You are great! This is a great how-to!
I learnt loads from you mate. Nice one.
excellent work...very hands on....:)
Thanks for these videos...I'm a newbie so I appreciate the detailed explanation.
I'm enjoying this series. I'm really starting to realize the mistakes I made the time I tried flex track.
very nice layout so far sir the vids help come it coming
thanks james i like this! these videos will help when i get out of EZ track
Creating these vids was a great idea! Its very helpful. Im a beginner too :)
another great vid,,and as far as ppl saying whats right and wrong,,blow it off,,one of the reasons i left model RR is all the 'rivet counters' telling me this is wrong , thats not to scale , etc. well, to that i say ,its a hobby for enjoyment,,my way of doing things may not be right,, but it works for me, and to the rivet counters,,measure the doors,windows ,etc on your locos,,they are not proper scale,,so,,to them i say 'BITE ME',lol. ty again for the vidz, keep em coming.
Great job !! Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work. .
keep up the good work... i hope to use these tips in the near future for a layout i might make
I've recommended your series of how to videos on my forum. You may find a problem with soldering all the rail joiners. If there are temperature changes the track can buckle because there is no room in the joints for expansion.
everyone got different ways to lay track those guys that are saying crap about how you lay yours had to learn to so they shouldn't go there I like what you did im in the process of building a layout to
Hey.. brother. Sweet trick for rail soldering. Use 2 gatter clips one on either side of the area ur soldering.. this will draw off the heat.. and will give u about an exrta 5 - 10 seconds before the plastic ties melt. Works great.. get the mini electrical ones. They are like 5 bucks on amazon
I might have miss what you use to glue the cork down to the foam. since I am building my first layout I thank you for all you show and tell
i think your info on the track laying was very helpfull i did some soldering of n scale track the same way it works great
this is debateable, and heavily depends on what you really feel like doing. Some will swear to solder everything, some won't. The most important thing, tho, is feeder wires. A feeder wire with a good BUS line every 3 feet will eliminate all conductivity/communication issues, and soldering rails isn't entirely necessary. That being said, i solder all my connections. :D
Few comments, this may sound dumb, but to help with the shaky hands when soldering (learned this in high school electronics class), try lifting a foot. The theory is that your brain will focus on the foot and help calm your hands.. at least, that was what we were told.. and most times, it seemed to work. I don't know if it's real or a "wives tale" but it really does seem to work.
Always use flux when soldering, rosin not acid. You will be amazed at the difference. The solder will just flow wherever there is flux. Clean it up when done. Try staggering your track joints on a curve, eliminates that slight kink you can get. Nice work still.
i use DAP alex plus acrylic latex caulk plus silicone 35 yr clear to glue down my cork roadbed and track,it comes out white so you can see where your putting it and drys clear,you can paint it as well. you can get at any hardware store or lowes,etc. for 2 bucks or so works realy good. drys overnight and if mess up a sharp long razer knife can cut it loose from your work.
section to allow the flex track to straighten out. This shouldnt' be such an issue for small layouts, but if you have 100ft of straight mainline, that's a lot of force that builds up in the benchwork when it it wants to move. Several trestle bridges weren't in yet and the rail actually broke the spikes in the plastic ties. both rails bowing out about 1/8" in 2" long culvert. We now regularly put the rails in with gaps in the rail at the\ joiners of 1/16-3/32" to allow for this movement.
Also, you may want to try using flux on the connection before you start. I'm not into model trains (I'm into electronics) but the flux will allow the solder to flow down into the join. It'll actually "suck" the solder down. Also, when you are soldering on the phone wire, tin (add some solder to the wire) the tip of the wire before you solder it to the track. This will make it flow together real easy.
Again, great video series!
great video, I'm so glad I'm a Marklin guy
If your short extra hands get some round head sewing pins and you can pin track exactly where you want them. I am young and I don't shake until i get within 1/4 inch of what i'm about to touch with a paint brush lol.
Thank you.
i enjoy this; awesome videos; keep it up
hi mate great video....just wondering how you mark out your curve for the flex track....
Yes your video is dark. To solve this just take a lamp (minus the shade) and place it behind the camera and this will fill the darkness and is cheep. You also can move it to keep it behind the camera all of the time. Or you can get a bulb in a holder and use a light stand. When I solder track I pin it straight before trying to solder it and I've been doing it for 30 years. I run feeder wires every other joint and at the ends of each switch or set of switches but I never solder at the switches and don't have any problems. I use push pins to hold the track in place and then use soup cans to weight the track down. You can put a pin every other can or what ever you want. I saw this on line and is not my idea. But it works. I tack bond the ends of the switches and not all of he switch. This makes it easier to take the switch out when you make the eneivitable mistake like I do a lot. Just make sure you have enough space to slide the rail joiner off of the switch and then pop the wrong one up and replace it. File down track with any power tool -- never... Use a file by hand. With the tool you use you will not need much filing.
I don't think you need to solder more than two pieces at the same time, that's why you were having trouble placing it on the roadbed. Yea! you can solder all the ones you want, but two is more manageable. Great series though! By the way I saw you're review of the ExactRail reefer, great job man!
the vids are very helpful, thanks.
thank you very much for that i was wondering how the heck i would put under my track and how i would get the curves to go the way i want them this has been so helpful
cheers mate
Albert the mad Aussie
I'm really enjoying your video's and after seeing this one on curves was wondering or you going to go back and super elevate them also is there a plus or down side to elevating them? Thanks for all the great advice on building a model train layout!
Your videos are great. I have only watched the first 8 but have learned so much! I am beginning a new layout using an old Atlas track plan. Though I have been very careful to make sure the rails are joined cleanly, with no slop, I have a few with gaps. I am not using flex track, these gaps are with standard Code 100 track. The problems have occurred when joining some Warren Truss bridges. There just does not seem to be quite enough rail. Do you have suggestions about how to fill in those gaps?
Great job in how so far to wire the layout and lay down the foam boards. My question to you is are you just going to have the track flat on the foam boards and not elevate them and if so how do you go about doing that? if you ever used the risers?
Woodland scenics risers worked very well for me but they have a limited selection of grades, if you want something very gradual over a long run you'll have to do some fiddling.
i dont understand why people give you grief for doing something different. what kind of hobby would it be if we all did everything the same?
And .. sand/ file the bottem of the rails at the joint. . Cover them with flux before u put the rail joiner on..
Place just a bit of solder on the edge of ur gun.. then with the gatter clips. U just touch the gun to the middle of the join.. the flux will melt. And draw in the solder. Ull get basically seemless almost solderless joins..
Also.. with the gatter clips. U can clip out 1 tie anywhere u want to drop a wire feed. Then k. So.
Clean the wire end. Bend it inwards. 90 degrees (after u cover it with solder..
The area u want to drop a leead. Remove the tie. And file the bottem of the rail. Add flux. Then line up with leed holes on road bed. Drop the leed inbring them down to the height of the bottem of the rail. Put ur gatter clips around the area u are going to attach the leed... angle the leed towards the inside of the rail so the end sticks out past the inside of the rail..
Touch solder it in place. (This is a finicky opperation.. take ur time and file to piss out of the rail.. u need surface area to solder to. And the nickel rail is very smooth.. k. File it..
Once the wires are cold. Clip of the inside ends the stick out inside the rail. And u now have hidden wire leeds on the cheap. U can do this is switches. Especially micro engineering ones.. i express tho.. solder the points for dcc opps on the bench before install. . Doing them on the layout is a slut and a half.. haha
Misery loves company, so if someone is giving you a hard way to go, just feel sorry for them because they must lead a MISERABLE LIFE. Who are they to say you are doing things wrong, especially if they don't offer the RIGHT WAY to do it, just ignore those morons and go on with what you are doing. I think it is honorable the way you are not afraid to show your mistakes. If someone else can do better, then post your own videos, don't dog someone for trying... Keep up the good work...
all telephone/data wire is essentially solid copper 24-awg wire. it won't matter which
Great series. However you will get a better solder joint if you apply the heat to the rails and joiner instead of the solder. Let the heat from the rails melt the solder. If you melt it using the tip of the iron, you will get a cold solder joint. Meaning you just melted the solder onto the joint, and it is not a good bond. It is not good for strength or conductivity. If the rail and joiner are hot enough, the solder will melt and flow into the joint for the best joint.
You have one of the best series of model railroad construction videos ever! I've learned quite a lot from all of your videos! Quick question: where did you get your flex track with concrete ties?
I had to stop your video in the middle to type this quick message;
I've heard you say a few times now that you have been catching crap from some 'gurus' about your methods and/or lack of experience... so here's my quick message to them; "SCREW THEM".
I found your series by searching 'How to build a layout', and your series led the results.... NOT THEIRS. If they know so much better than you do, well, maybe they could shut their traps, and put their own videos where their complaining, nagging, bitchy mouths have been.
I am not a new railroader. But it has been a long long time since I was involved in the hobby. I hail from the DC/power blocks/chicken wire & paper machete(sp?) days. There are a few places already (video #5) where I can see that I already know a 'better way' than you are teaching, but there are also a number of things I have already leaned ... not from you, but ... with you. the advice to stay away from the bead-foam was especially good to learn. I am especially looking forward to seeing how to wire for DCC, how to build terrain without that damn plaster-of-paris everywhere, and how all the things I've been reading about like frogless switches, magnetic de-couplers, and remote controlled roundhouses etc work.
Thanks for sticking with it, and remember your critics have two options IMHO; shut up or put up (a video of their own).
I get tons of comments every day because of all the videos I have online but I must respond to you and say "THANK YOU!" I did and still do get some crap, but no one has the courage to do any better. So at least I tried and I am always happy to hear I have helped someone along the process because the info is not out there much or it's hard to find. Keep on building man, thanks for your kind words.
I have a few friends make comment like do you have a train whistle or a cap, but when they come over they ask to see the trains run. My reply is NO!
2021 checking in and same thing - I have paused the video half way and was going to write a comment very similar. Planning my first 'real' layout and this is one of the most helpful video series I have seen. Hands down, period.
Flex Track only has splits on one side, peco super flex track has splits both side so it can turn anyway and is more flexible
Hey great job so far but you do know you can buy fishplates (the bits that connect the rails) from Hornby which means you don't have to solder the rails together.
Why do you need to solder the connections? Is it for better continuity? Or so the connections stay gap free when moving the track around? Thanks.
have you ever tried faltering your curves diagonal instead of a cross I heard that was better in a curve just want someone else's opinion if that's true or not
Use pins when your laying and bending by yourself? Good video. Great effort.Don't listen to the idiots who think they know it all.It's your money and Your Layour! Keep on
I'm just starting out on model railways and now I'm beginning to think it's just far too complicated. What's the point of tracks that are made in a fixed radius if you're just going to use flexitrack? And thick sheets of foam? Is thick wood not enough or with underlay at most? Then there's soldering all the joints and miles of wiring. I thought the most complicated thing was going to be where to put the tracks. I get the bit about the three inches to allow the long line of carriages to go round the curves safely but the other stuff seems over complicated. I know I'm probably completely wrong about it but I can't see me managing all that.
has anyone noticed that you has stopped letting you skip ads?
do you nail the track down?
Nice video Just one question did you use flux when you soldered your rail?