If access to the reverse side is available, a copper block pressed against the steel prevents burn through, as it dissipates heat, and the filler will not bond to the copper.
I spent 50 years repairing auto body repairs and what I have noticed is that if mig machines and body filler were discontinued it would put 98% of all body shops out of business, back when all you had were oxy/acetylene torches with either coat hangers or brazing rods and the metal work had to be finished well enough that it might have needed some spot putty over the primer. Of course lead was used but again that means filler, it costs a lot and is labour intensive, hats off to those who took a piece of sheetmetal made the part and finished it well enough to only need primer, it's much faster, much cheaper, resulting in a high quality repair. Anytime I see modern shops loaded with high dollar equipment to repair auto's these days chokes me up, body men are more plasterers than metal fabricators, they would have starved back in the day..
Yes but they couldn't have fixed this - ruclips.net/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/видео.html My dad was one of those guys you talk about - he was very good but couldn't keep compete with a MIG welder and plastic filler :)
Great repair you are 100% correct sometimes you just cannot butt weld or add weld to a piece of metal to another piece of rusty metal you just need to cut it and replace it with brand new metal and this area it's okay because you really won't see it
Your videos are AWESOME. I am restoring a 1976 Chevy square body and have plenty of metal fabrication experience but zero auto body repair-welding experience. Your videos have been SUPER helpful. Just wondering why you don't monetize the channel. You would make a few bucks.
Thanks HBRV - I appreciate your kind words. Hope your Chevy turns out great - I had a 77 Chevy Scottsdale with the rust orange paint from that year - those are great looking trucks for sure :)
I don't have her look at anything anymore - too many suggestions. "Are you going to buff this?" "What about this scratch?" "Looks darker." 🥴 Have a good weekend Tom 😊
I'll keep them coming and say some prayers for you my friend. Stay strong and take care of yourself too. You'll enjoy some of the videos that are coming up - I hope. Have a good weekend PVC 👍😊
I just love to see you welding with your millermatic 90 amp mig. I am partial to the old time tranformer welders, they seem to give better heat tranfer then those new fangled inverter typs welders. Oh by the way great work on that patch in the wheel well Jerry old pal.
I do love the simplicity and quality of a 1 operation welder. Just MIG!! Glad you like it too my friend. Thanks for the kind words and have a good weekend :)
Since I've been following your channel I've noticed your video content is geared towards us DIY guys. I have a video suggestion most of us are stuck using rattle cans. I stumbled across a guy using a inexpensive airless sprayer using automotive paint in 2K primers. The end result was pretty decent for using a 40 dollar sprayer from Amazon. Do you think you could possibly do a video for us as a alternative method then using a rattle can? I purchased the same sprayer that he was using. It is marked down to 19.99 on Amazon it comes with four different tips. It is the Vevor paint sprayer, 800 watts Electric spray paint gun with 10ft air hose with 3 spray patterns, 4 nozzles, HVLP gun. Thanks in advance
Sounds like a good video idea. What type of paint would you want to use in this sprayer from Vevor? Thanks for the suggestion John. Truth is... body shops don't get fancy like the internet, magazines, and TV. Most do it just like you see on this channel. Remember simple is more efficient, faster and many times the best quality :)
Jerry's done a bunch of videos featuring the purple Horrid Fate HVLP gun. They're on sale often for $10, or $18 with the regulator. I buy them the same as I buy those $1.25 bent wire brushes. Always have a fresh one sitting around.
First there shouldn't be any vapors. If there are, I wouldn't be welding. If you are living on the edge, cover or mask anything that has to do with the tank. Here's a good example of what you are dealing with - ruclips.net/video/Jk29avqnVXI/видео.html
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - you'll really like this stuff - inexpensive, sets up fast, paintable, works great :)
I saw that too - had to check it out 😊 Don't know what it was - I sort of work a bit reckless so I end up with injuries I don't remember how I got - put milk in the cupboard too sometimes 🥴
I'll lap weld rather than butt weld every time I can. Why make life hard on yourself, right? Good job on the repair and great job on making the texture blend in
All roofs were lap welded to quarter panels in a valley filled with lead for over 50 years. It's called a sail panel joint - they lasted forever - so long no one knew about them.
I found through the years that the best way to prevent future rust is make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside and this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html If you coat the inside with anything like paint or undercoating it will eventually peel, trap moisture and cause more harm than good :)
Great job, can’t even see where the repair was made👍
Very nice repair Jerry. Have a good weekend my friend
Thanks Greg - you too. Always nice to hear from you 😊
If access to the reverse side is available, a copper block pressed against the steel prevents burn through, as it dissipates heat, and the filler will not bond to the copper.
I spent 50 years repairing auto body repairs and what I have noticed is that if mig machines and body filler were discontinued it would put 98% of all
body shops out of business, back when all you had were oxy/acetylene torches with either coat hangers or brazing rods and the metal work had to be
finished well enough that it might have needed some spot putty over the primer. Of course lead was used but again that means filler, it costs a lot and is labour intensive, hats off to those who took a piece of sheetmetal made the part and finished it well enough to only need primer, it's much faster, much cheaper, resulting in a high quality repair. Anytime I see modern shops loaded with high dollar equipment to repair auto's these days chokes me up, body men are more plasterers than metal fabricators, they would have starved back in the day..
Yes but they couldn't have fixed this - ruclips.net/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/видео.html My dad was one of those guys you talk about - he was very good but couldn't keep compete with a MIG welder and plastic filler :)
Nice demo Jerry!
Great repair you are 100% correct sometimes you just cannot butt weld or add weld to a piece of metal to another piece of rusty metal you just need to cut it and replace it with brand new metal and this area it's okay because you really won't see it
Thanks for your input Luis - always good to hear your take :)
This was exactly what I needed to see , thanks.
You're welcome - try lap welding most of your patches, .023" wire if possible, lower temps, shorter weld times.
Your videos are AWESOME. I am restoring a 1976 Chevy square body and have plenty of metal fabrication experience but zero auto body repair-welding experience. Your videos have been SUPER helpful. Just wondering why you don't monetize the channel. You would make a few bucks.
Thanks HBRV - I appreciate your kind words. Hope your Chevy turns out great - I had a 77 Chevy Scottsdale with the rust orange paint from that year - those are great looking trucks for sure :)
Great job Jerry. I'm sure Annette could give you some pointers on applying seam sealer with her cake decorating experience. All the best. Tom
I don't have her look at anything anymore - too many suggestions. "Are you going to buff this?" "What about this scratch?" "Looks darker." 🥴 Have a good weekend Tom 😊
@@LakesideAutobody You and your family are the very best Jerry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent, straight forward method. Thank you.
Great video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it :)
Another fine video 👍
Thank you this video is very helpful I appreciate the information.
Glad it was helpful - feel free to ask any ?s you ever have - get to the comments every day :)
@@LakesideAutobody Do you think this may work for trouble code p0600 and p060a my battery went dead installed a new one today?
Thanks you do great work and creat good quality videos
Thanks Marvin - have a great weekend :)
Great info
great video Jerry! I have sick family members to take care of and can't get to the jobs I want to do but these videos keep my hopes up
I'll keep them coming and say some prayers for you my friend. Stay strong and take care of yourself too. You'll enjoy some of the videos that are coming up - I hope. Have a good weekend PVC 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody prayers will help, thanks Jerry!
I just love to see you welding with your millermatic 90 amp mig. I am partial to the old time tranformer welders, they seem to give better heat tranfer then those new fangled inverter typs welders. Oh by the way great work on that patch in the wheel well Jerry old pal.
I do love the simplicity and quality of a 1 operation welder. Just MIG!! Glad you like it too my friend. Thanks for the kind words and have a good weekend :)
awesome as usual......
Thank you - have a good week Steve :)
Since I've been following your channel I've noticed your video content is geared towards us DIY guys.
I have a video suggestion most of us are stuck using rattle cans. I stumbled across a guy using a inexpensive airless sprayer using automotive paint in 2K primers. The end result was pretty decent for using a 40 dollar sprayer from Amazon.
Do you think you could possibly do a video for us as a alternative method then using a rattle can?
I purchased the same sprayer that he was using. It is marked down to 19.99 on Amazon it comes with four different tips. It is the Vevor paint sprayer, 800 watts Electric spray paint gun with 10ft air hose with 3 spray patterns, 4 nozzles, HVLP gun.
Thanks in advance
Sounds like a good video idea. What type of paint would you want to use in this sprayer from Vevor? Thanks for the suggestion John. Truth is... body shops don't get fancy like the internet, magazines, and TV. Most do it just like you see on this channel. Remember simple is more efficient, faster and many times the best quality :)
Could you email me the exact one you bought - schoolvideolibrary@gmail.com Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Yes
@@LakesideAutobody sent
Jerry's done a bunch of videos featuring the purple Horrid Fate HVLP gun.
They're on sale often for $10, or $18 with the regulator.
I buy them the same as I buy those $1.25 bent wire brushes. Always have a fresh one sitting around.
Great tips as always thank you!!!
You're welcome :)
Looks great nice job keep up the good work
Thanks 👍
Like the hole was never there! Nice job!
Thanks 👍
Awesome.
👍 Have a great weekend MN 😊
Nice job as usual 👏 😂😅
👍😊
Hey Jerry, great video !. Mike Terry here, got some info for you when have a chance
Thanks Mike - I'll call you or email you.
I gotta grind and weld by bed well by fuel cap, what should i do to prevent sparks from igniting vapors?
First there shouldn't be any vapors. If there are, I wouldn't be welding. If you are living on the edge, cover or mask anything that has to do with the tank. Here's a good example of what you are dealing with - ruclips.net/video/Jk29avqnVXI/видео.html
Super. What is the seam seal product please?
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-2013 Body Joint and Seam Filler Compound - you'll really like this stuff - inexpensive, sets up fast, paintable, works great :)
Hi Jerry, awesome video! What size of mig wire do you use? .023? With gas, do you use straight argon or a mix?
.023" with 75/25 mix - you can use .030" without issues - it just "feels" better to me using the .023" - like it melts in faster or something :)
😁👍👍
is that a burn on the back of your left arm?! ouch! i need one of those sand blaster guns. thanks for the vid
I saw that too - had to check it out 😊 Don't know what it was - I sort of work a bit reckless so I end up with injuries I don't remember how I got - put milk in the cupboard too sometimes 🥴
@@LakesideAutobody It can be rough being a human on this rock. I'm with you, brother. Keep on keepin' on.
I'll lap weld rather than butt weld every time I can. Why make life hard on yourself, right?
Good job on the repair and great job on making the texture blend in
All roofs were lap welded to quarter panels in a valley filled with lead for over 50 years. It's called a sail panel joint - they lasted forever - so long no one knew about them.
Try a slice of raw potato behind the weld
I will - can you eat it after it's fried up a bit? 😊
@@LakesideAutobody probably full of weld dust it'd be gritty
@@agoogleaccount2861 Right...🥴
@@LakesideAutobody it limits melt throughs pretty good just don't rush it
I've watched a LOT of YT welding videos and that's one I've never see suggested before! Makes sense though.
Better seal the back side are you got nothing.
I found through the years that the best way to prevent future rust is make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside and this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html If you coat the inside with anything like paint or undercoating it will eventually peel, trap moisture and cause more harm than good :)
Thank you for sharing your expertise!! I'm always impressed with your skills!!
Thanks for your kind words PG - have a good weekend :)
Good job brother 👍👍
Thanks ✌