The beginning is of the car at rest, more driving after ....1995 4.2L Buick V8. Crover 50229 cam, NRP stainless Exhaust. K&N Cone Filter. Stock tires and Ignition upgrades.
Hey - saw your other video of where you installed the 229 and lifters into the 95 gold lwb 4.2. you did a 0-60 test on it at 11.8 seconds... what did you end up getting after the crower install? Where are you at now? Just curious. I am considering the crower upgrade on my LWB.. my 4.2 is sluggish on the highway but then again its got a lift and some 33s on it.
I'm at 10.5 0-60. I punched the cats to get some more RPM.... still runs excellent. i have the MSD in it and the stock 205's. the cam helped the idle, gave me a bunch of torque down low. the crower 50229 is the mid cam... crower makes another cam for higher RPM and another one for low end. If you wanted low end concentration id go with the one one grade lower. my brother has a 94 LWB with the V belts and 245 BFGs. I beat him off the line ever time. so would i think its worth doing the swap.... yes. Is the performance gains very noticeable... no... but the engine runs smoother and its an overall healthier setup.... the lobes on the old cam were rounded and clearly a loss of HP was evident. you cant go wrong with helpin your engines mechanics out if your good with tools its an easy swap.
Its really not a buick anymore. the 215 is long gone. your water temp is too high! 182 is best for that motor, Land rover admits the thermostat is incorrect for USA. Rimmer bro's in UK has the best cam and valve spring choices. When the head gaskets go use the ARP studs and the top hat liners, if you haven't already. Also the chip from the UK will better the cam you chose with much better fuel mapping and a horsepower torque boost. easy to install. the heater core will be next. First sign of head gasket failure will be cracking of the coolant reservoir, loss of coolant followed by the heater core if you dont fix it fast enough. change the anti freeze every season as it turns to acid once it goes below freezing. well you will see. dont forget to change the heater hoses behind the block, no one ever does. I have 3 range rovers and just bought another for 350.00 that needs a cam and lifters, so yeah a rebuild.at 160k the fuel pump will probably go out, water pump around the same. Viscous coupler will be bad when you find out the front axle is broken. cool thing you can change the viscoius with out taking out the tcase. as well as the traction control on the 94 it only works on the rear axle, applies the brake to the spinning wheel, as you said thru the ABS system.cam bearing dont put the front cam bearing thats all groved up on purposefrom atlantic british, unless you have the oil pump in the front cover. after the 2nd head gasket the block will be cracked on the 4.2 behind the cylinder liner. Best 4x4 by far. meh, best iconic vehicle to drive,,absolutely
All you say is so true!!!! Actually I plumed my water temp between the block and the plenum heater so I could see the temperature drop of m Water injection, like every Rover every owner knows its quirks... I'm on to other Rover projects now, thinking about a Duramax swap or an LS engine. More hp and something different, The 4.2 isn't enough for me!
+gh3860 I haven't owned a P38 So I cant really compare them. But My 4.2 in my Classic is doing great I've got 160K on it, my brother has a 1994 LWB with 150K we have another that has a 1993 classic with over 200k on it. So reliability pretty strong.... Id trust my rover because I know the beast "she gets moody time to time"
Don't we all? I made a foolish mistake of buying a P38 as first car and I've spent more than 5K making it somewhat reliable. Don't get me wrong the P38 is comfortable and all but maintaining the air suspension is a pain the ass and cost money. (2,000$ AUD for a valve block) So I'm probably going buy 4.2 LWB classic or a 3.9 SWB one as a daily driver.
One of the best engine sounds!!
Nice acceleration. I swapped my 3.9 for a 4.6 and also used crower 50229. I hope will do a good job, first start is coming this week.
saarsz Awesome! My cam is doing well so far, I've had it for 2 years now and its holding up nicely.
Hey - saw your other video of where you installed the 229 and lifters into the 95 gold lwb 4.2. you did a 0-60 test on it at 11.8 seconds... what did you end up getting after the crower install? Where are you at now? Just curious. I am considering the crower upgrade on my LWB.. my 4.2 is sluggish on the highway but then again its got a lift and some 33s on it.
I'm at 10.5 0-60. I punched the cats to get some more RPM.... still runs excellent. i have the MSD in it and the stock 205's. the cam helped the idle, gave me a bunch of torque down low. the crower 50229 is the mid cam... crower makes another cam for higher RPM and another one for low end. If you wanted low end concentration id go with the one one grade lower. my brother has a 94 LWB with the V belts and 245 BFGs. I beat him off the line ever time. so would i think its worth doing the swap.... yes. Is the performance gains very noticeable... no... but the engine runs smoother and its an overall healthier setup.... the lobes on the old cam were rounded and clearly a loss of HP was evident. you cant go wrong with helpin your engines mechanics out if your good with tools its an easy swap.
Its really not a buick anymore. the 215 is long gone. your water temp is too high! 182 is best for that motor, Land rover admits the thermostat is incorrect for USA. Rimmer bro's in UK has the best cam and valve spring choices. When the head gaskets go use the ARP studs and the top hat liners, if you haven't already. Also the chip from the UK will better the cam you chose with much better fuel mapping and a horsepower torque boost. easy to install. the heater core will be next. First sign of head gasket failure will be cracking of the coolant reservoir, loss of coolant followed by the heater core if you dont fix it fast enough. change the anti freeze every season as it turns to acid once it goes below freezing. well you will see. dont forget to change the heater hoses behind the block, no one ever does. I have 3 range rovers and just bought another for 350.00 that needs a cam and lifters, so yeah a rebuild.at 160k the fuel pump will probably go out, water pump around the same. Viscous coupler will be bad when you find out the front axle is broken. cool thing you can change the viscoius with out taking out the tcase. as well as the traction control on the 94 it only works on the rear axle, applies the brake to the spinning wheel, as you said thru the ABS system.cam bearing dont put the front cam bearing thats all groved up on purposefrom atlantic british, unless you have the oil pump in the front cover. after the 2nd head gasket the block will be cracked on the 4.2 behind the cylinder liner. Best 4x4 by far. meh, best iconic vehicle to drive,,absolutely
All you say is so true!!!! Actually I plumed my water temp between the block and the plenum heater so I could see the temperature drop of m Water injection, like every Rover every owner knows its quirks... I'm on to other Rover projects now, thinking about a Duramax swap or an LS engine. More hp and something different, The 4.2 isn't enough for me!
How reliable are these in comparison to my P38 Range Rover? and which engine should I go for 3.5, 3.9, 4.2?
+gh3860 I haven't owned a P38 So I cant really compare them. But My 4.2 in my Classic is doing great I've got 160K on it, my brother has a 1994 LWB with 150K we have another that has a 1993 classic with over 200k on it. So reliability pretty strong.... Id trust my rover because I know the beast "she gets moody time to time"
Don't we all? I made a foolish mistake of buying a P38 as first car and I've spent more than 5K making it somewhat reliable. Don't get me wrong the P38 is comfortable and all but maintaining the air suspension is a pain the ass and cost money. (2,000$ AUD for a valve block) So I'm probably going buy 4.2 LWB classic or a 3.9 SWB one as a daily driver.
+gh3860 you can always just ditch the air suspension? ;)