The capacitors you replaced seem to have mainly been the main filter capacitors. Without them working properly, "ripple/ noise can get into the dc low voltage line, messing with the chips that prefer "clean" steady dc voltage. I guess that's what mainly was the cause why the lights spat out a general error code, cause nothing was really defective, just not in an operational state. Good job figuring out the cause! :D
I don't know what it is but when I am watching your videos it makes me relaxed and makes me want to watch more of your FANTASTIC Videos. Ps you are the best youtuber ever
Great job tracing down the problem to the caps. I would still take off all the caps in that region where the leak occurred and clean up the space under them. You will also have a chance to test them to see if any are out of spec. Using IPA and a brush to clean the board may not be enough, as you are not changing the pH of the spilled electrolyte. When the IPA evaporates, that stuff is still on the board, but just less visible. You could use a spray bottle to douse the board and let it drip off to one side, but I think using a solution of vinegar mixed with distilled water (or at least filtered) would help neutralize the pH, then you could follow up with a rinse of distilled water and finish with IPA spray/douse to replace and remove the particles. You may want to look into replacement of other old line filter capacitors in all of your devices. This includes LCD panels, radios and external power bricks. All these noisy devices will pollute your power in your house. Could make for a good video series:).
@@chrissheppard342 Yeah, but vinegar is a acid. So it causes corrosion if not cleaned off. Rust will appear if vinegar is not removed. So you need baking soda to nuteralize the vinegars acid. Vinegar will rust and corrode the steel holes where the solder goes, and then solder will not stick to rusty holes.
have the exact same problem on a machine ive been working on on and off for a year, think it looks like someone did an eprom bypass with a wire on mine to pull the bios from another part of the chip, such a nightmare error to identify, was going to chuck it in the bin but this vid has given me some motivation to have another crack... nice one vince
Good fix there mate, OG Xbox's seem to be showing more problems now they are getting older. Removing the clock capacitor has probably eliminated another future fault from happening so you've done the right thing there. I wonder if different power supplies are required as there were a number of OG Xbox motherboard/hardware revisions throughout its lifespan?
@@Mymatevince The earlier Microsoft Xboxes had a structurally design-flawed PSU whereby the "figure of 8" connector can wobble and break off/be solder-cracked due to the port merely being held down by two small clips, and if it breaks off, smoke can come out. Microsoft somewhat acknowledged the problem by supplying power cords with safety features built-in like a Nintendo adaptor from the 1980s which is designed to detect potential shorts caused by said problem, and will blink red if it does detect such an issue. Also, systems with capacitors made in the 2000s were plagued by the infamous Capacitor Plague, whereby an incorrectly copied electrolyte formula was used to make the capacitors, resulting in a less-than-stable formula that can cause havoc on boards. The cause of that: possible/reported industrial espionage involving someone working in Japan trying to copy the electrolyte formula and then taking that to China and then Taiwan.
You should compare new and faulty capacitors. Look and test the upper part with your finger. Quite often the broken one is rounded upwards. You will learn to notice the difference when you examine them. Many thanks for this video as well.
Never assume a capacitor is fine because it is not bulging/leaking. Capacitors can have several types of failures that have no outward physical symptoms, and require an LCR meter to verify. I've replaced thousands of failed capacitors that look fine, but have been shorted, open, electrically leaky, high ESR and capacitance that was out of spec of the rating of the capacitor. Electrolytics (especially radial and SMD types) can leak out of the rubber plug in the bottom, and due to the capacitor being flush with the PCB, capillary action can wick the leaked electrolyte and keep it under the body of the capacitor, making it impossible to detect unless the capacitor is removed. 80s and 90s SMD electrolytics are notorious for doing this because of manufacturing defects in early SMD capacitors.
Exactly, I have seen Xbox 1.6 with failed clock capacitors. Even though the community says that those don't fail. The leak it had was as you said, on the bottom of the cap, so until you couldn't see the leak until the cap was removed. Every electrolytic capacitor will leak eventually. Yes, the 1.6 had better capacitors, bit also it came out later, so the caps are "younger" and didn't fail where the other models did, but I guess that they are not that young anymore lol. What I did with a 1.6 was to do a "mod" where you take out two resistors and solder a wire from a transistor to the positive point of the cap. This bypasses the cap on the 1.6 console, which wouldn't power on without one
Nice Fix Vince, Faulty caps. Used to get that a lot on TV PSU's when I used to repair TV's. The electrolytic stuff dries out with age / heat and they no longer work. On another note Vince, I've just repaired a Milwaukee soldering iron, fairly easy fix, you might fancy one for yourself. Uploading the video for that one soon!
Great video! Was fun to follow along! I'm in the process of replacing my laser for my Thompson drive. I ordered a new one after getting disk read errors and trying to clean it. Here's hoping!
Believe I’ve got 3 of those Xbox’s, 2 which have been modded, All still working from what I remember, At: 27:00 you mention a Cap that’s just out of tolerance, I had a similar issue with a Big Yamaha AV Receiver, Took it to my Brothers a few years ago and he checked a Capacitor which tested ok & I asked him to replace it anyway & he did & voila, It turned on fine, We believe the Capacitor had gone out of tolerance just enough to prevent it from turning on, Good Video as always Vince! 🙂
Nicely done. I think we're starting to see the average lifespan of power supply capacitors (depending on use) somewhere around 10-20 years. It may just be worthwhile to preemptively change them if ever working on another eBay purchase. Enjoyed this video!
Brilliant - thanks for not editing too much out as that really helps to understand fault finding - we’ve just switched our Xbox 360 on for the first time in ages - guess what!!!…….
@18:00 that capacitor is a load capacitor for the 32KHz crystal, so my thought is that the crystal is bad or the capacitor is cracked, they are usually about 20pF.
The light you were confused about on the broken Xbox is the Red Ring of Death which is when an important processor dies on the inside of the console like the GPU, fans or clock capacitor. Meanwhile, the Orange Ring of Death, when you unplugged the AV of your working Original Xbox, is when the Xbox can't detect an AV cable plugged into a television and so turns that colour, but it will still work as normal and open its disc tray. If it's flashing only green, that's when the actual BIOS is corrupted, which usually happen when a bad jailbreak is done, a failed jailbreak or when bad soldiering is done when modifying. It sometimes (but usually) occurs when you buy modified Xbox's that have been entered (will usually show VOID on the bottom) and messed around with. If you get the Green Ring of Death, your console is basically bricked. If the Eject button is flashing green without you pressing it, that is definitely GRoD. Greatly done. Most of the capacitors in them original Xbox's are dying nowadays, I'm surprised how my limited edition one which you can see through isn't dead yet.
@@yorkshirebikerbitsnbobs No there are GROD its not a made up thing, but it is very rare and often happens on consoles that have been modified incorrectly.
This is awesome - I just got an Xbox with exactly the same issue, so whilst it may not be the same things causing it, at least I have a head start on where to look. Cheers.
I got one around a year ago that after plugging it up it displayed a Orange light. Took a bit to boot but then I realized it was a modded xbox with a 2 TB hard drive & almost the entire xbox library. Not bad for $15
Just wanted to say thanks for the information. My butifull xbox started to blink red and green this weekend, and i had the same problem as you. No fault finding is needed, and it is working after 1,5 hours of work. I'm going to put it back when i get this heatsinks of. They are properly stuck 😀 Brilliant content as always!
Well done. Always test power supplies under full load (with the drives connected). You can also test for AC noise on power rails using the AC range on the DVM, or, better still, a scope (comparing with the working unit). Touching the capacitor was probably just power on resetting the IC, but this is pure guesswork on my part. Your hot air station will be better at directing heat than a hairdryer and a can of freezer may be a prudent purchase for the future.
@@willywonkawhitecaneman I have no knowledge of phones, my reference to using freezer spray or hot air was to pinpoint faulty components in power supplies, but this also works on IC's etc, so may also work on phones.
That's a very common fault in power supplies of that type. What happens is that part of the circuit works at high frequency, so the capacitors work at critical levels in filtering the power. Except if they are very high quality, they wear more than the other capacitors in the circuit and, like someone commented on below, you start having ripple.
I believe the fix is something unexpected. Let me explain. I took apart a working Xbox that absolutely stinks like smoke and was extremely dusty. I tore it all the way down as much as possible and did a deep clean. When I put it back together, it was giving me the exact error that you have. After investigating, the metal sheathing on the bottom housing serves as a ground plain and touches on multiple parts of the motherboard board. I realized that I had done a bit of cleaning with a rag that had goo gone on it which is pretty oily. So I suspected that it wasn’t able to make a good contact to ground. All I had to do was clean the sheathing really well with alcohol and it works like a charm!
been troubleshooting a 1.6 my friend gave me for free from his childhood that supposedly just the disc drive didnt work so I ordered a new disc drive and then started getting the same exact fraging , i will now look into a replacement power supply. thanks!
Mind your back moving that thing around! The thing is a beast. I do like my OG Xbox though, enjoyed modding mine and changing the hard drive, and playing in glorious ish HD.
WOW man, mine has the same problem and putting the finger in the same position made my xbox start without red/green flashing. Now I'm gonna recap the PSU. Thanx a lot by now....
That thing you push is a crystal resonator at 32768Hz, they fail from time to time, it is for time keeping oscillator, so without stable power it breaks normal oscilation. You can put 2x1000uF in parallel in the place of one 2200uf
When you mentioned it may be a fault through a failed soft mod. I thought they were as easy as breathing to soft mod 😂 great video regardless keep it up mate
The one that requires more electricity is might be an older generation or older than the good. The 1.0-1.6b boards kind of different. Good job and keep up the goog work
I've fixed half a dozen of these now, ALL the large capacitors go bad, especially around the CPU and GPU. Console5 sells a kit, for the main board and the power supply. You can also get a quieter fan.
Capacitors, always capacitors (well not always, but when it's an item like this, this old, thermally constrained, yeah caps is certainly a good place to start). And yes, that stuff on the logic board certainly looked like cap leakage. I've seen the same many times when working on Apple Macintosh logic boards from the 90s - the best part is when you get a dusty system that's had cap leakage the dust/dirt tends to stick to the leakage making it very obvious.
So I really enjoyed watching your video and learning some of the different problems of the Xbox and how to fix them. However, I would like to know if the capacitors that you ordered will work on any model of the Original Xbox? My Xbox also has the same problem and it would seem like that would be the fix.
I have a dead Xbox. I bought a used one off eBay but still have the dead one. Your videos have given me the motivation to go tinker with it. Maybe I'll mod that one if I revive it and leave my other one stock. Great videos. Loving your channel.
The leaking clock capacitor is a common problem on the OG Xbox, but has been rectified on the 1.6 model which you were working on. Easy way to know if cap has gone, the residue smells fishy and the cap is budging.
I had a MVS with the real time clock going crazy fast on diagnostic test. But when I went touching some pins of the RTC chip with a logical probe suddently it started counting time normally. Turned out the trace that feeds it power (from either the PSU or battery) goes accross aaaalll the board and over under several times, it had a bad via at some point. I guess the probe have some capacitance that managed to kick-start the chip. So yeah, electronics be wierd lmao.
If heat fixes your problem then it is bad solder joints. Heat from the device running will create heat on it's own and after a while of being on, it may start working in it's own. This can be show with a hair dryer... I wish you tested this too as heat causes the joints to expand and then get a good connection. So your caps may actually still test good but the fix was really new solder on those joints. FYI :)
Those caps are exactly what went bad on my original Xbox. Luckily they were bulged, so I was able to diagnose them right away because I never would have figured it out otherwise.
Seeing the inside of the OG xbox takes me back; my neighbor's xbox died some time ago due to a faulty power supply and I cannibalized mine to get his working again, since I didn't use mine anymore (luckily ours were the same model). Now I'm wondering if I kept the old faulty one and if it's a similar issue, maybe I can get mine working again (though if I remember right that one wouldn't power on at all). Anyway, nice work!
I don't like to do reflows. A lot of the time the problem is something else or the chip itself being dead. So you just end up adding unnecessary heat stress to the board.
I also got the green red flashing light on 2 of my xbox, both are partially working, one turns on as soon as I plug it in, you can play games without any issue but sometimes I get the red green flashing lights, the other one has issues booting, very few times I'm able to play with it, I opened it and saw that one of the ram chips is rusty, maybe exchanging that ram chip the xbox will work fine, I think so.
So i have just dusted my old xbox off , i am using the PS2 power cable to power the xbox as i have lost the AV cable and power cable , oh and i need a new controller , my xbox is flashing red and green , could that because i dont have a AV cable plug in ? Oh thank you so much i carried on watching the rest of video and you answered my question 👍
I always reflow all the components in that area of the clock capacitor and make sure to use vinegar and water mix of 80 percent vinger and 20 percent water
Like the way u talk through all the steps and say what your thanking and explain what and and y u might thank what might be the problem!! Keep up the good work .. I have a og ps3 phat the backwards compatible one I'm lost on ... do u have any good info ??????.. I wish I could send it to u to fix but I don't thank it would be worth it ...
Reminds me of my ps3 wich does the Ylod when starting the game on the first try, on the second try it crashes when starting the level, and on the 3 time it doesnt crash
Those caps are neccesary cause the psu works with high frequentie cause its a flyback trafo and thus noise can go in to the power line and maybe mess up some on die components and areas of the chip like maybe the circuitry that does the power for the whole die or the clock generation circuit
I'm curious on what would happen if you put the bad capacitors back in the eBay Xbox console, but then tried to insert a game and play it WHILE you had your finger on the capacitor shown in the red circle. I wonder if it would've turned off or not, or maybe just boot-looped itself again? Idk, just an interesting thought.
Hey I got the same problem and I try to find the C6E5 capasiter to put my finger on it to see if that the problem in my case like you did but my model is different, I got another power supply to fix it but I need to make sure, to fix the problem I hade to replace all the not 2200uF capasiter from the power supply with 2200uF or just replace the 2200uF capasiter?
An idea, why not HDMI and SD card soft mod it up? There is out there a proper modification kit apparently for the OG Xbox to give you better high resolutions than the workarounds using adapters etc.
Just some Caps which are broken and the whole Xbox stopped working. I liked fhat console. Weird that this happens on Xbox Ones too. I wonder if this happens to the Xbox Series as well?
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
The capacitors you replaced seem to have mainly been the main filter capacitors. Without them working properly, "ripple/ noise can get into the dc low voltage line, messing with the chips that prefer "clean" steady dc voltage. I guess that's what mainly was the cause why the lights spat out a general error code, cause nothing was really defective, just not in an operational state. Good job figuring out the cause! :D
The Xbox is either working or gives out a general error code. Kind of like the YLOD on the PS3.
OG Xbox should fully support widescreen
😢
@@thongquehanoithere's patches for those wich dont support 16/9 natively😊. But thanks yo the OP, searching for a clue that could be my case too
Seen tronic fix with a my mate Vince shirt on today in his new video fixing 3 ps5. Love to see the RUclips repair community supporting each other.
Nice. I noticed the tronic fix one. Going to have a watch now!
6:15 - ‘And it can kill you’ said with such a soft tone 😂😂
the legend is still here after i watched him for years for 3ds/wii u/wii/switch thanks for still being here legend
I don't know what it is but when I am watching your videos it makes me relaxed and makes me want to watch more of your FANTASTIC Videos. Ps you are the best youtuber ever
I’ve missed your console videos especially the Xbox ones. Good to have them back👍🏻
Great job tracing down the problem to the caps. I would still take off all the caps in that region where the leak occurred and clean up the space under them. You will also have a chance to test them to see if any are out of spec. Using IPA and a brush to clean the board may not be enough, as you are not changing the pH of the spilled electrolyte. When the IPA evaporates, that stuff is still on the board, but just less visible. You could use a spray bottle to douse the board and let it drip off to one side, but I think using a solution of vinegar mixed with distilled water (or at least filtered) would help neutralize the pH, then you could follow up with a rinse of distilled water and finish with IPA spray/douse to replace and remove the particles.
You may want to look into replacement of other old line filter capacitors in all of your devices. This includes LCD panels, radios and external power bricks. All these noisy devices will pollute your power in your house. Could make for a good video series:).
vinegar is a acid. You nutralize acid with a base, not another acid. You are better off using soap and water instead of vinegar.
@@sleepwalker29wrong. Batteries are alkaline based and the vingear is an acid so it will definitely neutralize it.
@@chrissheppard342 Yeah, but vinegar is a acid. So it causes corrosion if not cleaned off. Rust will appear if vinegar is not removed. So you need baking soda to nuteralize the vinegars acid. Vinegar will rust and corrode the steel holes where the solder goes, and then solder will not stick to rusty holes.
I love watching you fixing consoles makes me feel so relaxed lol fix more !!!!!!
have the exact same problem on a machine ive been working on on and off for a year, think it looks like someone did an eprom bypass with a wire on mine to pull the bios from another part of the chip, such a nightmare error to identify, was going to chuck it in the bin but this vid has given me some motivation to have another crack... nice one vince
Good that you got that capacitor when you did. I managed to get one of mine just in time. A few traces ruined, but not beyond salvage.
Good fix there mate, OG Xbox's seem to be showing more problems now they are getting older. Removing the clock capacitor has probably eliminated another future fault from happening so you've done the right thing there. I wonder if different power supplies are required as there were a number of OG Xbox motherboard/hardware revisions throughout its lifespan?
Cheers Danny, maybe some boards needed more power or maybe the later ones are more efficient 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince The earlier Microsoft Xboxes had a structurally design-flawed PSU whereby the "figure of 8" connector can wobble and break off/be solder-cracked due to the port merely being held down by two small clips, and if it breaks off, smoke can come out.
Microsoft somewhat acknowledged the problem by supplying power cords with safety features built-in like a Nintendo adaptor from the 1980s which is designed to detect potential shorts caused by said problem, and will blink red if it does detect such an issue.
Also, systems with capacitors made in the 2000s were plagued by the infamous Capacitor Plague, whereby an incorrectly copied electrolyte formula was used to make the capacitors, resulting in a less-than-stable formula that can cause havoc on boards. The cause of that: possible/reported industrial espionage involving someone working in Japan trying to copy the electrolyte formula and then taking that to China and then Taiwan.
You should compare new and faulty capacitors. Look and test the upper part with your finger. Quite often the broken one is rounded upwards. You will learn to notice the difference when you examine them. Many thanks for this video as well.
Never assume a capacitor is fine because it is not bulging/leaking. Capacitors can have several types of failures that have no outward physical symptoms, and require an LCR meter to verify.
I've replaced thousands of failed capacitors that look fine, but have been shorted, open, electrically leaky, high ESR and capacitance that was out of spec of the rating of the capacitor.
Electrolytics (especially radial and SMD types) can leak out of the rubber plug in the bottom, and due to the capacitor being flush with the PCB, capillary action can wick the leaked electrolyte and keep it under the body of the capacitor, making it impossible to detect unless the capacitor is removed. 80s and 90s SMD electrolytics are notorious for doing this because of manufacturing defects in early SMD capacitors.
Exactly, I have seen Xbox 1.6 with failed clock capacitors. Even though the community says that those don't fail.
The leak it had was as you said, on the bottom of the cap, so until you couldn't see the leak until the cap was removed.
Every electrolytic capacitor will leak eventually. Yes, the 1.6 had better capacitors, bit also it came out later, so the caps are "younger" and didn't fail where the other models did, but I guess that they are not that young anymore lol.
What I did with a 1.6 was to do a "mod" where you take out two resistors and solder a wire from a transistor to the positive point of the cap. This bypasses the cap on the 1.6 console, which wouldn't power on without one
Nice Fix Vince, Faulty caps. Used to get that a lot on TV PSU's when I used to repair TV's. The electrolytic stuff dries out with age / heat and they no longer work. On another note Vince, I've just repaired a Milwaukee soldering iron, fairly easy fix, you might fancy one for yourself. Uploading the video for that one soon!
I've fixed a few bits with bad caps. First port of call for investigating older stuff.
As far as I'm concerned your video can be as long as necessary, I will still watch every minute of it.
Great video! Was fun to follow along! I'm in the process of replacing my laser for my Thompson drive. I ordered a new one after getting disk read errors and trying to clean it. Here's hoping!
Believe I’ve got 3 of those Xbox’s, 2 which have been modded, All still working from what I remember, At: 27:00 you mention a Cap that’s just out of tolerance, I had a similar issue with a Big Yamaha AV Receiver, Took it to my Brothers a few years ago and he checked a Capacitor which tested ok & I asked him to replace it anyway & he did & voila, It turned on fine, We believe the Capacitor had gone out of tolerance just enough to prevent it from turning on, Good Video as always Vince! 🙂
Good diagnosis. It might be sensible to suspect all caps of the same vintage once you know one has gone for certain. Keep up the great work 😀👍
Nicely done. I think we're starting to see the average lifespan of power supply capacitors (depending on use) somewhere around 10-20 years. It may just be worthwhile to preemptively change them if ever working on another eBay purchase. Enjoyed this video!
Cheers Shawn 👍
@ProMasterTheGamer Live Sunday or Monday I think it will be👍
@@Mymatevince
Nice
That is the best series you have
Brilliant - thanks for not editing too much out as that really helps to understand fault finding - we’ve just switched our Xbox 360 on for the first time in ages - guess what!!!…….
@18:00 that capacitor is a load capacitor for the 32KHz crystal, so my thought is that the crystal is bad or the capacitor is cracked, they are usually about 20pF.
The light you were confused about on the broken Xbox is the Red Ring of Death which is when an important processor dies on the inside of the console like the GPU, fans or clock capacitor. Meanwhile, the Orange Ring of Death, when you unplugged the AV of your working Original Xbox, is when the Xbox can't detect an AV cable plugged into a television and so turns that colour, but it will still work as normal and open its disc tray. If it's flashing only green, that's when the actual BIOS is corrupted, which usually happen when a bad jailbreak is done, a failed jailbreak or when bad soldiering is done when modifying. It sometimes (but usually) occurs when you buy modified Xbox's that have been entered (will usually show VOID on the bottom) and messed around with. If you get the Green Ring of Death, your console is basically bricked. If the Eject button is flashing green without you pressing it, that is definitely GRoD. Greatly done. Most of the capacitors in them original Xbox's are dying nowadays, I'm surprised how my limited edition one which you can see through isn't dead yet.
It not a "Ring" of anything. Don't make things up. It's called a "FRAG" FLASHING RED & GREEN or just an error code.
@@yorkshirebikerbitsnbobs No there are GROD its not a made up thing, but it is very rare and often happens on consoles that have been modified incorrectly.
It's been quite a long time since I've visited this channel, and his tinkering expertise is as sharp as ever!😁👍
I saw TronicsFix wearing one of your my mate Vince T shirts, That is funny shit right there
This is awesome - I just got an Xbox with exactly the same issue, so whilst it may not be the same things causing it, at least I have a head start on where to look. Cheers.
I got one around a year ago that after plugging it up it displayed a Orange light. Took a bit to boot but then I realized it was a modded xbox with a 2 TB hard drive & almost the entire xbox library. Not bad for $15
Just wanted to say thanks for the information. My butifull xbox started to blink red and green this weekend, and i had the same problem as you. No fault finding is needed, and it is working after 1,5 hours of work.
I'm going to put it back when i get this heatsinks of. They are properly stuck 😀
Brilliant content as always!
Thanks Anders, well done on the fix 👍👍👍
Now that's how you make a tutorial!
Also, God bless you for caring about "retro" gamimg, especially the og xbox, in 2023.
Well done. Always test power supplies under full load (with the drives connected). You can also test for AC noise on power rails using the AC range on the DVM, or, better still, a scope (comparing with the working unit). Touching the capacitor was probably just power on resetting the IC, but this is pure guesswork on my part. Your hot air station will be better at directing heat than a hairdryer and a can of freezer may be a prudent purchase for the future.
@@willywonkawhitecaneman I have no knowledge of phones, my reference to using freezer spray or hot air was to pinpoint faulty components in power supplies, but this also works on IC's etc, so may also work on phones.
14:34 definitely heard the HDD spin up when you pressed down on the chip that time, makes sense if it contains the IDE controller.
I really should comment after watching the WHOLE thing 🙂
That's a very common fault in power supplies of that type. What happens is that part of the circuit works at high frequency, so the capacitors work at critical levels in filtering the power. Except if they are very high quality, they wear more than the other capacitors in the circuit and, like someone commented on below, you start having ripple.
I've been watching for years vince and love 💙 your videos. Always inspires me to have a go at repair projects myself with what I learn from you 👍⭐
I believe the fix is something unexpected. Let me explain. I took apart a working Xbox that absolutely stinks like smoke and was extremely dusty. I tore it all the way down as much as possible and did a deep clean. When I put it back together, it was giving me the exact error that you have. After investigating, the metal sheathing on the bottom housing serves as a ground plain and touches on multiple parts of the motherboard board. I realized that I had done a bit of cleaning with a rag that had goo gone on it which is pretty oily. So I suspected that it wasn’t able to make a good contact to ground. All I had to do was clean the sheathing really well with alcohol and it works like a charm!
been troubleshooting a 1.6 my friend gave me for free from his childhood that supposedly just the disc drive didnt work so I ordered a new disc drive and then started getting the same exact fraging , i will now look into a replacement power supply. thanks!
I love these vids. Well done Vince.
Mind your back moving that thing around! The thing is a beast. I do like my OG Xbox though, enjoyed modding mine and changing the hard drive, and playing in glorious ish HD.
Repaired one 6 months ago, had same error. I gave a board good IPA cleaning and it turned on. As is Halo edition i kept it and still works.
WOW man, mine has the same problem and putting the finger in the same position made my xbox start without red/green flashing. Now I'm gonna recap the PSU. Thanx a lot by now....
I never thought I would say this, but I crave a car video after this one 😂
Well, that’s a conclusive conclusion.
Keep up the good work and, as always, stay safe!
Enjoyable to watch. Anything you do is enjoyable. You are so smart.
That thing you push is a crystal resonator at 32768Hz, they fail from time to time, it is for time keeping oscillator, so without stable power it breaks normal oscilation. You can put 2x1000uF in parallel in the place of one 2200uf
Thanks Technixbul👌
When you mentioned it may be a fault through a failed soft mod. I thought they were as easy as breathing to soft mod 😂 great video regardless keep it up mate
Nice video as always. That big cap on the psu always makes an impressive spark when dragging a screwdriver across it. This is in 120v land.
The one that requires more electricity is might be an older generation or older than the good. The 1.0-1.6b boards kind of different. Good job and keep up the goog work
I've fixed half a dozen of these now, ALL the large capacitors go bad, especially around the CPU and GPU. Console5 sells a kit, for the main board and the power supply. You can also get a quieter fan.
Excellent work Vince, well done again
Thanks. This video really helped me. Discerning between what the orange and red lights mean and how they differ, I was able to fix the problem.
TronicsFix rocking a MMV shirt today.
Nice detective work! Good to know what happens if power does not run evenly!
Capacitors, always capacitors (well not always, but when it's an item like this, this old, thermally constrained, yeah caps is certainly a good place to start).
And yes, that stuff on the logic board certainly looked like cap leakage. I've seen the same many times when working on Apple Macintosh logic boards from the 90s - the best part is when you get a dusty system that's had cap leakage the dust/dirt tends to stick to the leakage making it very obvious.
So I really enjoyed watching your video and learning some of the different problems of the Xbox and how to fix them. However, I would like to know if the capacitors that you ordered will work on any model of the Original Xbox? My Xbox also has the same problem and it would seem like that would be the fix.
I'm a simple man, I see xbox repair, I click Like.
I have a dead Xbox. I bought a used one off eBay but still have the dead one. Your videos have given me the motivation to go tinker with it. Maybe I'll mod that one if I revive it and leave my other one stock. Great videos. Loving your channel.
Same. I didn't know the original xbox had these problems, I thought just the 360 did smh
The leaking clock capacitor is a common problem on the OG Xbox, but has been rectified on the 1.6 model which you were working on. Easy way to know if cap has gone, the residue smells fishy and the cap is budging.
That wasn't a 1.6 model though? The 1.6 models have a newer gold and black capacitor located near the ribbon port
Oh dood! I missed it! We want to see the BIG DUSTY BLOW!
You basically fixed an Xbox with a hairdryer, you really are getting the hang of it 😄👌
You can use a soldering iron to heat up individual caps
I had a MVS with the real time clock going crazy fast on diagnostic test. But when I went touching some pins of the RTC chip with a logical probe suddently it started counting time normally. Turned out the trace that feeds it power (from either the PSU or battery) goes accross aaaalll the board and over under several times, it had a bad via at some point. I guess the probe have some capacitance that managed to kick-start the chip. So yeah, electronics be wierd lmao.
If heat fixes your problem then it is bad solder joints. Heat from the device running will create heat on it's own and after a while of being on, it may start working in it's own. This can be show with a hair dryer... I wish you tested this too as heat causes the joints to expand and then get a good connection. So your caps may actually still test good but the fix was really new solder on those joints. FYI :)
Class upload once again Vince!
Nice Vid Vince. The OG Xbox is so huge lol
Vince if you want to get the stickers down without damaging them you can use IPA on them, and you can restick them afterwards
I have a 1.6 that started doing this. Will give the power supply a look and swap the caps if needed and see if it works on mine
Love all your videos m8 from William Duncan AKA foggy❤❤
The original x-Box came out during ground zero of the "capacitor plague" You'd be well off to replace all of them.
Thanks for another video, Vince!
Those caps are exactly what went bad on my original Xbox. Luckily they were bulged, so I was able to diagnose them right away because I never would have figured it out otherwise.
Seeing the inside of the OG xbox takes me back; my neighbor's xbox died some time ago due to a faulty power supply and I cannibalized mine to get his working again, since I didn't use mine anymore (luckily ours were the same model).
Now I'm wondering if I kept the old faulty one and if it's a similar issue, maybe I can get mine working again (though if I remember right that one wouldn't power on at all). Anyway, nice work!
Great easy fix. I have the same issue with a vintage miltitrack cassette recorder.
@21:00 as my phrase goes on my merch shirt, it’s always a crapacitor.
I don't like to do reflows. A lot of the time the problem is something else or the chip itself being dead. So you just end up adding unnecessary heat stress to the board.
I wondered where my air duster was, did you nick it!
A tip for cleaning under bga. Use a modelling air gun with the pressure cranked up with ipa then a follow up with deionised water with a blow dry
I recall from another video that specific PCB version have very "cheap" clock cap which breaks and can kill your console.
Great video vince cracking fix
1:41 the green and orange flash light is not an error its just signaling that theres no av connection to the xbox
I also got the green red flashing light on 2 of my xbox, both are partially working, one turns on as soon as I plug it in, you can play games without any issue but sometimes I get the red green flashing lights, the other one has issues booting, very few times I'm able to play with it, I opened it and saw that one of the ram chips is rusty, maybe exchanging that ram chip the xbox will work fine, I think so.
What does heating the capacitors do? Someone commented it reflows a cold joint, but the way you were heating them didn't seem hot enough to reflow.
So i have just dusted my old xbox off , i am using the PS2 power cable to power the xbox as i have lost the AV cable and power cable , oh and i need a new controller , my xbox is flashing red and green , could that because i dont have a AV cable plug in ? Oh thank you so much i carried on watching the rest of video and you answered my question 👍
Yay! Original Xbox! Love these things!
25:26 are you licking the tip of hot iron? 😂😃
I always reflow all the components in that area of the clock capacitor and make sure to use vinegar and water mix of 80 percent vinger and 20 percent water
What's the reason for that ratio? Is straight vinegar too acidic?
@@Nebby_99 yes its a little to acidic then i clean it off then i clean with ipa till cleaned all off
Like the way u talk through all the steps and say what your thanking and explain what and and y u might thank what might be the problem!! Keep up the good work .. I have a og ps3 phat the backwards compatible one I'm lost on ... do u have any good info ??????.. I wish I could send it to u to fix but I don't thank it would be worth it ...
Reminds me of my ps3 wich does the Ylod when starting the game on the first try, on the second try it crashes when starting the level, and on the 3 time it doesnt crash
I had this problem Vince I change hdd and boom it’s working once again 😅
Those caps are neccesary cause the psu works with high frequentie cause its a flyback trafo and thus noise can go in to the power line and maybe mess up some on die components and areas of the chip like maybe the circuitry that does the power for the whole die or the clock generation circuit
I really missed console trying to fix, nice!
I'm curious on what would happen if you put the bad capacitors back in the eBay Xbox console, but then tried to insert a game and play it WHILE you had your finger on the capacitor shown in the red circle. I wonder if it would've turned off or not, or maybe just boot-looped itself again? Idk, just an interesting thought.
Hey I got the same problem and I try to find the C6E5 capasiter to put my finger on it to see if that the problem in my case like you did but my model is different, I got another power supply to fix it but I need to make sure, to fix the problem I hade to replace all the not 2200uF capasiter from the power supply with 2200uF or just replace the 2200uF capasiter?
An idea, why not HDMI and SD card soft mod it up? There is out there a proper modification kit apparently for the OG Xbox to give you better high resolutions than the workarounds using adapters etc.
No worries Vince, another great video. 👍
why have you got a grey and red joy con on your Nintendo Switch?
Maybe use thermal imaging camera ,to see if there's a short?
When the casing fell on your finger 🤣🤣 awww🤣
Just some Caps which are broken and the whole Xbox stopped working. I liked fhat console. Weird that this happens on Xbox Ones too. I wonder if this happens to the Xbox Series as well?
cool video now I gotta find a working power supply to test this system out thanks
Cap at C4F9 looking a little worse for the wear. I think it's popped up slightly based on the way the light is hitting it.
if the power supplys are same voltage and same wires coming out can't you just splice a differnt power supply plug on
Great video! Really like that blue mat. Is that something I can find on Amazon?
I got this problem when I removed the clock capacitor, put it all back together and never worked again, gonna try and fix it.