For all the hobbyists out there who don't repair boards for a living I've found a 1mm drill bit and a sewing needle work perfect for removing solder from the holes.
I placed a order for that Hakkon Desoldering Gun. I tryed with my Weller Soldering station.and soldering wick. Didn’t work so to not damage the board. I just bought one. Update that Hakko gun works excellent. Im redo some solder points. Thought i didn’t use any flux seems the Solder that has it there already not enough. No matter i get some reclean the board. Desolder again with the FR-301 Add the flux resolder and done. Saved my 20 year old Xbox Console.
I wish i lived by you to fix my old xbox compacitor i havent turned it on in 20 years and if it still works this would need to be fixed. No retro shops by me that i would trust to fix it i dont want to open it myself.
Bro,thank you for making this video. Im always over thinking things,but youve proved,that i dont need to. Thx. Need to buy new capacitors,but being new at tinkering,is there a "kit" which i can buy ? Yeah,im kinda stressed for doing it the wrong way.. im 44 and still scared to screw things up.. its painful.. but its the truth.. im a gamer at heart,but always scared to screw things up.. i hope you understand. Anyway,great video buddy ,keep doing this 👊🏼♥️
i have an earlier version board i just removed the leaking clock capacitor from , lucky it didn't have much leakage, but then i noticed the other bigger capacitors near the cpu are bulged at the tops . I guess you cant expect the world from a 20+ year old console.
@@MidnightPodcastGaming you shouldn't have to recap them that often. A good set of capacitors should last 20-30 years before needing replacement. The caps from 1997-2008 were dodgy due to bad quality electrolytic fluid but modern caps from reputable brands should not have this issue.
Yeah, but sometimes do they leak, it is rare but certainly happens. Is better to do a full recap on mainboard and PSU, better safe than sorry. Also DVD drives not working properly may be fixed by replacing all capacitor on their boards. No need to adjust the pot reducing the lifetime of the laser pickup. Those are rare to find fully functional.
So I need to recap my 1.6b CPU caps as they are bulging and one is leaking. Is there any reason I should also recap ALL the mobo caps as you did? I can get a kit from Zedlabz for $24 for just the CPU caps for $24 delivered, or it would be over $60 including postage from Console5 to Australia. Or I could order individual caps myself from Digikey or Mouser for around the same cost as Console5 once postage is added in (or grabbing enough stuff to get the free postage option). Any advice? I've only ever soldered a single wire to my NES frontloader previously to do a region free mod, so I'm a noob at soldering, but do have a bunch of soldering supplies I can use. It doesn't look that hard thanks to your video going through everything. Also I have desoldering braid as well as a desolder pump, which would you recommend to use?
If its for yourself, you could probably get by with just changing out the CPU caps. You can get by with a soldering iron and desoldering braid. Adding new solder to the joints will also make it a little easier to remove the caps and easier to clean the holes for a new cap.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Yep just for my own xbox, it runs fine but when checking out the board noticed the bulging and leaky cap so figured better do something about it! Thanks!
Hello, I have already replaced the power-on capacitors (6.3v 3300 uf) and the console still does not turn on. When I press and hold the power button, the source sends 5v and 12v, but when I release the button, the voltages drop to 0v. The power supply works perfectly.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs the console was working fine. All capacitors are good (Console 1), I swapped them with a working console (Console 2) and it turned on (Console 2). But the other one did not turn on (Console 1). I noticed that the Console 1 processor gets hot when I press the power button. It is version 1.6.
Thats a tough one to diagnose. Have you tried heating and cooling the processor or the other bgas to see if you have a cracked solder joint? Another thing to check is the voltage on transistor Q7C2 on the collector pin in DC voltage mode. Q7C2 is near the clock cap. A good reading is 3.2v or so.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Similar. 1.6, replaced caps. Got a backup PSU, still no power. Transistor is showing .8 volts. Not sure if it's that, or the motherboard just died.
What soldering gun model is that? i just bought my first OG xbox ever so now I am learning on all the things I need to do to them with the caps and drive bands etc. i just want to have all the right tools before getting into my xbox.
It is the "FR-301 Portable Desoldering Tool" from Hakko. It is a bit expensive, but it is quite high quality. I wouldn't purchase the FR-301 if you're only working on only one XBOX though.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairswhat tip for the fun are you using? And what temperature is it set at? I have the same one but man some of the solder is incredibly stubborn to remove.
friend, please tell me... xbox 1.6 does not react at all to the power button, the power supply is in perfect order, I checked it on another board. The capacitors are not swollen, visually everything is in order. I tried to short-circuit the power supply white and black, still no startup. xbox was not chipped
Capacitors can still be faulty even if they are not leaky or swollen. I'd start by recapping the CPU area. You may also check to see if you get common voltages on the motherboard.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs I tried short-circuiting the power supplies... white (powerON) and black... the power flows as expected, I checked the resistors, mosfets, capacitors and coils near the processor, but everything is fine. I think it's something else. The processor is unlikely... When I installed the interposer and P3 tualatin 1400mhz, even with the processor removed, the power supply only blinked red and green. It’s a pity that I live in another country, I would love to come to you
Just want to add... please don't be put off making videos, after all I'm just a guy with an opinion! In general I like having some background music, it's just that the one chosen for this video had a volume level that changed a lot over time. And please keep making videos 😊 I've subscribed!
Our XBOX services can be found here: nickselectronics.com/products/original-xbox-console-repair-service?variant=45093957861652
For all the hobbyists out there who don't repair boards for a living I've found a 1mm drill bit and a sewing needle work perfect for removing solder from the holes.
Great tip!
I placed a order for that Hakkon Desoldering Gun. I tryed with my Weller Soldering station.and soldering wick. Didn’t work so to not damage the board. I just bought one. Update that Hakko gun works excellent. Im redo some solder points. Thought i didn’t use any flux seems the Solder that has it there already not enough. No matter i get some reclean the board. Desolder again with the FR-301 Add the flux resolder and done. Saved my 20 year old Xbox Console.
I wish i lived by you to fix my old xbox compacitor i havent turned it on in 20 years and if it still works this would need to be fixed. No retro shops by me that i would trust to fix it i dont want to open it myself.
You could always try it yourself. I'd practice on something you don't care about first though.
O melhor técnico do youtube que já assisti.
awesome video, thanks for making it 👍
No problem 👍
Odd. My 1.6 didn't need new caps. They all looked fine.
Most of the time they'll be visually fine. I'm guessing the console is working great so far?
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Yeah its absolutely fine. I cleaned it and soft modded it last year. Turned it on just today to test some cables I got.
With the 1.6 I replace at least the caps under the CPU even when they look fine. Though, I do prefer a full recap anytime I refurb.
You were lucky then
excellent brother, thank you ✌🏻🙂
You bet!
Bro,thank you for making this video. Im always over thinking things,but youve proved,that i dont need to. Thx. Need to buy new capacitors,but being new at tinkering,is there a "kit" which i can buy ? Yeah,im kinda stressed for doing it the wrong way.. im 44 and still scared to screw things up.. its painful.. but its the truth.. im a gamer at heart,but always scared to screw things up.. i hope you understand.
Anyway,great video buddy ,keep doing this 👊🏼♥️
No worries. Console5 has a cap kit that you can buy. All you need to do is determine which version XBOX you have and then you can take it from there.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Thx 👊🏼 ! I really appreciate this!🫂👊🏼
i have an earlier version board i just removed the leaking clock capacitor from , lucky it didn't have much leakage, but then i noticed the other bigger capacitors near the cpu are bulged at the tops . I guess you cant expect the world from a 20+ year old console.
It lasted quite a while, gotta give it that. You should replace them though.
Yeah these machines are definitely worth saving. @@RetroRenegadeRepairs
Didn't the 1.6 revision fix this issue with the clock cap? :/
The clock cap is less likely to leak for the 1.6 console. That being said, eventually all of the capacitors will fail and potentially leak.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Yups, just gotta re-cap them every 5 or so years. Easy thing. Just a matter of servicing your XBOX.
@@MidnightPodcastGaming you shouldn't have to recap them that often. A good set of capacitors should last 20-30 years before needing replacement. The caps from 1997-2008 were dodgy due to bad quality electrolytic fluid but modern caps from reputable brands should not have this issue.
@@oOignignoktOo1 Yes, as long as the caps were good, and are good, then you can do them every 10 years or so.
Yeah, but sometimes do they leak, it is rare but certainly happens.
Is better to do a full recap on mainboard and PSU, better safe than sorry.
Also DVD drives not working properly may be fixed by replacing all capacitor on their boards. No need to adjust the pot reducing the lifetime of the laser pickup. Those are rare to find fully functional.
Do you guys do Wii repair / modifications?
We do indeed.
So I need to recap my 1.6b CPU caps as they are bulging and one is leaking. Is there any reason I should also recap ALL the mobo caps as you did?
I can get a kit from Zedlabz for $24 for just the CPU caps for $24 delivered, or it would be over $60 including postage from Console5 to Australia. Or I could order individual caps myself from Digikey or Mouser for around the same cost as Console5 once postage is added in (or grabbing enough stuff to get the free postage option). Any advice? I've only ever soldered a single wire to my NES frontloader previously to do a region free mod, so I'm a noob at soldering, but do have a bunch of soldering supplies I can use. It doesn't look that hard thanks to your video going through everything.
Also I have desoldering braid as well as a desolder pump, which would you recommend to use?
If its for yourself, you could probably get by with just changing out the CPU caps. You can get by with a soldering iron and desoldering braid. Adding new solder to the joints will also make it a little easier to remove the caps and easier to clean the holes for a new cap.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Yep just for my own xbox, it runs fine but when checking out the board noticed the bulging and leaky cap so figured better do something about it! Thanks!
Hello, I have already replaced the power-on capacitors (6.3v 3300 uf) and the console still does not turn on.
When I press and hold the power button, the source sends 5v and 12v, but when I release the button, the voltages drop to 0v.
The power supply works perfectly.
There are a few questions to ask:
1. Which version XBOX and did the clock cap leak and cause damage?
2. Was the XBOX opened and worked on before?
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs the console was working fine. All capacitors are good (Console 1), I swapped them with a working console (Console 2) and it turned on (Console 2). But the other one did not turn on (Console 1). I noticed that the Console 1 processor gets hot when I press the power button.
It is version 1.6.
Thats a tough one to diagnose. Have you tried heating and cooling the processor or the other bgas to see if you have a cracked solder joint? Another thing to check is the voltage on transistor Q7C2 on the collector pin in DC voltage mode. Q7C2 is near the clock cap. A good reading is 3.2v or so.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs Similar. 1.6, replaced caps. Got a backup PSU, still no power. Transistor is showing .8 volts. Not sure if it's that, or the motherboard just died.
What soldering gun model is that? i just bought my first OG xbox ever so now I am learning on all the things I need to do to them with the caps and drive bands etc. i just want to have all the right tools before getting into my xbox.
It is the "FR-301 Portable Desoldering Tool" from Hakko. It is a bit expensive, but it is quite high quality. I wouldn't purchase the FR-301 if you're only working on only one XBOX though.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs okay I understand, thanks for the response. It just looks really like a useful tool especially with the desoldering.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairswhat tip for the fun are you using? And what temperature is it set at? I have the same one but man some of the solder is incredibly stubborn to remove.
@@ericyoung3480I believe I keep mine on the 3 and I have a larger nozzle I use for swapping out thumb stick modules on controllers.
friend, please tell me... xbox 1.6 does not react at all to the power button, the power supply is in perfect order, I checked it on another board. The capacitors are not swollen, visually everything is in order. I tried to short-circuit the power supply white and black, still no startup. xbox was not chipped
Capacitors can still be faulty even if they are not leaky or swollen. I'd start by recapping the CPU area. You may also check to see if you get common voltages on the motherboard.
@@RetroRenegadeRepairs I tried short-circuiting the power supplies... white (powerON) and black... the power flows as expected, I checked the resistors, mosfets, capacitors and coils near the processor, but everything is fine. I think it's something else. The processor is unlikely... When I installed the interposer and P3 tualatin 1400mhz, even with the processor removed, the power supply only blinked red and green. It’s a pity that I live in another country, I would love to come to you
Great video, but music very distracting, music volume is too high at times.
Sorry about that
Just want to add... please don't be put off making videos, after all I'm just a guy with an opinion! In general I like having some background music, it's just that the one chosen for this video had a volume level that changed a lot over time.
And please keep making videos 😊
I've subscribed!