Wieder ein sehr interessantes Video. Danke dafür! Das mit dem "Funkenschlag" ist wirklich ein großes Problem und macht sich auch bei Akkuwechsel schon bemerkbar. Wieviel Aufwand ist es das als 10S Variante zu bauen? Da die viele "Fortbewegungsmittel" auf 10S Basis auf dem Markt sind...
You designed that anti spark system? I typically use xt90s but it’s not perfect. I just refuse to buy a 70-100$ anti spark board to turn on my 100$ vesc. It seems pretty stupid to need to pay 100$ for a on off switch. Your solution seems like a perfect one as I assume the cost should be much lower than the options available. Is it acceptable to use with 20s battery packs, 72v / 84v fully charged?
Ich habe eine wichtige Frage: ich habe einen hub Motor q128h ( mit planetengetriebe) und jetzt will ich meinen Bescheid daran anschließen( habe schon mehrere q128h damit verbunden und es hat alles immer geklappt) wenn ich nun jetzt die detection laufen lasse dann zeigt er mir an 100A und sensorless dabei verträgt der maximal 30A. Wenn ich jetzt aber den Gashebel betätige, dann werden nur die Kabel heiß und nix dreht sich. Wo ist der Fehler? Ist einfach der Motor kaputt oder habe ich etwas falsch angeschlossen( Phasen kann man ja nicht falsch anschließen oder?)
Great video! The anti-spark circuit is really neat. I don't understand the point of the TVS diode though. We put it on the battery wires, but the voltage spikes are on the motor side, from the motor coils? I just cant figure out how the diode would help.
the current path goes from the battery, through the mosfets, to the motor coils. so when the vesc is building up the magnetic flux in the motor, current is rushing through the battery wires and the coil wires. But since you need to control the current, constant switching is required to stabelize the current. So the current path I just described gets interrupted. Now you have lots of energy stored in the motor coils and also a bit stored in the battery wires. Since inductance always wants to keep the current flowing voltage gets created by the collapsing magnetic field in the wirering to the battery as well as in the motor coils itself. On the motor side current now flows through the mosfet body diodes which basically act like a full bridge rectifier. if the voltage rises above to whatever the capacitors - 2x Body diode Vf is, the capacitors get charged with the excess energy. This happens especially on rpms near the limit of your motor since that is when the maximum amount of voltage gets created in the motor coils. On the Battery side the same happens, current suddenly gets cut off, which means the magnetic field on the battery wires collapses, and creates a voltage that would also charge up the capacitors above the voltage of the battery itself. Now if ESR of your caps is high and they dont take that new energy fast enough, the voltage rises to quickly and all the sensitive components like the drv mosfet driver and mosfets itself get exposed to very high voltage peaks. In this video of benjamin vedder himself also goes in detail on the battery side inductance and how that creates voltage spikes: ruclips.net/video/x6lPdI9OVQg/видео.html
Danke. Ist das gleiche wie strange parts hat. Den shop gibts aber nicht mehr. Gib einfach auf aliexpress "soldering microscope" ein. Kostet so 300€ rum
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Great video. Maybe consider selling them as a kit
Der Anti Spark wäre cool zum wenn man in in einem Shop kaufen könnte.
Wieder ein sehr interessantes Video. Danke dafür! Das mit dem "Funkenschlag" ist wirklich ein großes Problem und macht sich auch bei Akkuwechsel schon bemerkbar. Wieviel Aufwand ist es das als 10S Variante zu bauen? Da die viele "Fortbewegungsmittel" auf 10S Basis auf dem Markt sind...
Der antispark funktioniert von 6S bis 12S problemlos... :)
@@Pryside Ja super! Vielen Dank!
Hot air soldering will help immensely.
You designed that anti spark system? I typically use xt90s but it’s not perfect. I just refuse to buy a 70-100$ anti spark board to turn on my 100$ vesc. It seems pretty stupid to need to pay 100$ for a on off switch. Your solution seems like a perfect one as I assume the cost should be much lower than the options available.
Is it acceptable to use with 20s battery packs, 72v / 84v fully charged?
Super Video. Bildschärfe war sehr angenehm zum Anschauen
can you modify my tesla software or controller also, seems like no one can do this ?
Thats very random 😅
id love to see these sold at some point with something with instructions
Awesome, Nice work!
Also ich wäre sehr interessiert ein Kit oder einen fertig gelöteten Anti Spark zu kaufen!
Ich habe eine wichtige Frage: ich habe einen hub Motor q128h ( mit planetengetriebe) und jetzt will ich meinen Bescheid daran anschließen( habe schon mehrere q128h damit verbunden und es hat alles immer geklappt) wenn ich nun jetzt die detection laufen lasse dann zeigt er mir an 100A und sensorless dabei verträgt der maximal 30A. Wenn ich jetzt aber den Gashebel betätige, dann werden nur die Kabel heiß und nix dreht sich. Wo ist der Fehler? Ist einfach der Motor kaputt oder habe ich etwas falsch angeschlossen( Phasen kann man ja nicht falsch anschließen oder?)
Interesting video. Could such an anti spark element also help to debounce a DC switch?
there are definitly easier ways to debounce a switch. Its really only usefull for switching high current, high capacity things on.
Wow, awesome!
You are a genius ;)
Great video! The anti-spark circuit is really neat. I don't understand the point of the TVS diode though. We put it on the battery wires, but the voltage spikes are on the motor side, from the motor coils? I just cant figure out how the diode would help.
The voltage spikes are on the battery side
@@ElmarBon Can you explain why? I thought the spikes are because of the motor coils switching off
@@AntonMakesStuff Not an expert but believe it is just the inductances from the connections between de mosfets and capacitors/battery
the current path goes from the battery, through the mosfets, to the motor coils. so when the vesc is building up the magnetic flux in the motor, current is rushing through the battery wires and the coil wires. But since you need to control the current, constant switching is required to stabelize the current. So the current path I just described gets interrupted. Now you have lots of energy stored in the motor coils and also a bit stored in the battery wires. Since inductance always wants to keep the current flowing voltage gets created by the collapsing magnetic field in the wirering to the battery as well as in the motor coils itself. On the motor side current now flows through the mosfet body diodes which basically act like a full bridge rectifier. if the voltage rises above to whatever the capacitors - 2x Body diode Vf is, the capacitors get charged with the excess energy. This happens especially on rpms near the limit of your motor since that is when the maximum amount of voltage gets created in the motor coils.
On the Battery side the same happens, current suddenly gets cut off, which means the magnetic field on the battery wires collapses, and creates a voltage that would also charge up the capacitors above the voltage of the battery itself. Now if ESR of your caps is high and they dont take that new energy fast enough, the voltage rises to quickly and all the sensitive components like the drv mosfet driver and mosfets itself get exposed to very high voltage peaks.
In this video of benjamin vedder himself also goes in detail on the battery side inductance and how that creates voltage spikes: ruclips.net/video/x6lPdI9OVQg/видео.html
@@Pryside now that is an explanation👨🏫
Gutes Video :) Wie heißt das Mikroskop was du benutzt? :)
Danke. Ist das gleiche wie strange parts hat. Den shop gibts aber nicht mehr. Gib einfach auf aliexpress "soldering microscope" ein. Kostet so 300€ rum
Sieht doch i.O. aus! Vielen Dank.
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