Make the cheapest, fastest woodturning gouge EVER.
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2017
- More videos and exclusive content: / rexkrueger
Bowl-gouges cost a lot of money, but you can make a fantastic gouge out of some simple materials and a few hours time in the shop. Lots of turners have made the famous "Oland tool," but this video presents an easy, cheap, and nearly idiot-proof method for making an Oland-style tool that can handle large turnings and hard, challenging woods.
If you like this video, you can see other projects and follow my progress on instagram: @rexkrueger 
Хобби
A tip for drilling into round stock. File a small flat where you want to drill, helps prevent the bit from skating.
That's a pro tip. I'll try that for sure!
Centre popping works for me.
Rex, your perspective beautifully reflects your working roots AND WE APPRECIATE IT SO MUCH!!!!
Don’t change too much, just a smidge, but only if you have to.
Brilliant!!! Just finished my own one of these and it works beautifully. I previously found some old Wolf Cub turning tools...shapened them up and wasnt getting results. Im new to turning so didnt know what was wrong. But this DIY tool cuts great!! Cheers Rex 👍
Hey Rex. great job on the tool. One thing though, there's a cleaner way to do the wrap that's easy to do and doesn't require drilling holes. At one end of the wrap area, lay a couple of inches of the thread along the pipe, then wrap the thread over it tightly. When you get an inch or two from the other end, lay a loop of the thread or small wire along the pipe, so that the end of the loop is past where the wrap will end, and continue to wrap over that. When you get to the end, stick the end of the thread through the loop and cut it off to just an inch or so long. Then grab the other end of the loop and pull. That will tuck the loose end of the thread under the wrapped handle, leaving a nice, clean, wrap. Lots of videos of this technique online. Been using it for years to wrap tool handles, walking sticks, etc.
normally I like your videos Rex, but had I stumbled across this old video prior to subscribing I'd not have ever subscribed to your channel.
this gouge is cheap... but nothing else. A real bowl gouge cuts effortlessly
I think Rex is just trying to help those with limited budgets who still love to create and do their best despite having very limited funds. Priorities with family’s: shelter, water, food, taxes,……wood turning tools.
Rex, you have an easy way of explaining what you are trying to accomplish and what you are doing. This is an excellent, easy to understand video. Great job!
madronawoodworks So glad you liked it. I'm trying to be a clear and fun as possible.
Lowe’s carries set screws in the hardware department. I know this because I used to work for them
The Oland tool has been around wood turning forever,thanks for an eloquent description . while it may not be for everyone, it definitely has its place in the tool rack. Keep making videos you're a natural !
Scott ticknor Thanks for your encouragement! I really enjoy making videos and I'm glad people are getting something out of them.
Excellent instruction. Learned a lot. Thx
The explaining of the steel was a nice touch....it made me understand my tools better...I'm going to give turning tool making a try.
I'm really glad you liked it. I struggled to understand all this stuff for a long time. Hoping to save some other people the time I wasted. Thanks for your support!
Great video. Well done
Nice job Rex!
Great project, Rex. Good way to make a hollowing tool...easy, quick, and effective!
Thanks for the support! Glad you like it!
“Some people think you need tapping oil, but those people are wrong” this is why I’m subscribed
One of best alternative lubricants for metal sawing, drilling and tapping is the ordinsry brake liquid we use for our cars, Dot4 or whatever. Proven to work well in practice.
Like the video, nice scraper
Try moving the toolrest closer, it will reduce your catches
i discovered pretty much the same thing in my granddads woodshop but instead of setscrews he jammed a metal wedge between the insert and the pipe but the setscrews are definitely moore elegant
Like your idea. I used it to upgrade my diy carbide tool. I used a 1/2 square bar and knocked off the corners to fit the pipe. Made the bar about a foot long with the cutter on the one end. Now I can extend the bar to get more reach for deeper hollowing. Thanks for a great idea.
T Lewis Dean my pleasure! thanks for the compliment.
Nice scraper and work on making it!
Great video! I made one from a 1/2" pipe and a cobalt insert. Before drilling and tapping for the set screws, I took a hammer and flattened the ends of the pipe on an anvil into a square so the bit would never twist even if the set screws came loose. I did the rough hammering without the bit inserted but finished it off with the bit in place. You have to be careful though because the cobalt bit is brittle. I used a flat file on the inside to assure a smooth fit.
That sounds like a great mod! I'll have to try that.
Parenthood is such a nice thing 😁
Sure hope you little girl feels better soon! Thanks for the tips on the gouge. Like making my own.
This is my kind of tool making. You've got a new sub in me. There is a machine supply store near by so I'll swing in and see if I can pick up some of this Cobalt high speed steel.
By the way, I made a deep hollowing tool styled after Lyle Jamieson's product. I used 1/2" black pipe for the "D" shaped handle and slipped a 5/8" steel rod into it. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end about 2" deep and added two set screws. I found a package of HHS tool stock at Harbor Freight and made a cutter out of the 1/4" square bar. I sharpened the tip like you did and it works very well. On the opposite end of the 5/8" rod I drilled a hole at a 30 degree angle and now I can flip the rod end to end for two different cutting angles. It's not as good as a production model, but it works. I've made a couple of 8" deep vases with it so far.
Man, I love to hear about people making their own tools! Do you make videos? Did you document yours? I'd love to see a picture. Thanks for the positive feedback!
I do have some pics, but my welding skills and photographic skills are atrocious.OK? Send me a private message with your email address. We'll talk.
excellent tutorial video - thx for sharing
My pleasure!
Next time you drill holes with the drill press that you have to tap, leave the piece in the vise and put the tap in the chuck of the drill press. This insures that the tap is perpendicular to the hole. Just bring the tap down to the hole and turn the chuck by hand.
I love your video. I found the oak hard to turn at first. When I realized that I wasn’t using the tools correctly, and that they were dull, I found that white oak can be turned really easy with a roughing gouge. Then I can shape it with any tool, according to what I’m making. I was hoping you were going to make an actual bowl gouge, because I can’t afford one right now. Another tool that cuts real well is a carbide tip. You can buy a 3 pc set of tips on eBay for around $20. Then make your own handles. I picked up a 1/2” square pc of steel and made the arm to match the shape of the carbide tip. I still enjoyed your video.
I do recognize that tool from long ago. The Oland tool is a scraper, not a gouge. Scrapers cut with the burr, so you don't want to remove the burr. For a 'shear' cut, you have to drop your handle down near your hip, and roll the tool on its side. I use scrapers far more than most turners do, and they are by far the best tool for removing a lot of wood in a very short time. I generally sharpen mine on an 80 or 180 grit wheel. That gives the best burr. You can hone the burr off without much effort, which might be beneficial for your finish cuts. Anything to reduce the amount of time it takes to sand out your bowls. It still takes me longer to sand them than it does to turn them....
GOOD DEMO
Nice tip and video. Thank you so much!!
I'm glad you like it! I'll be using this tool in a video I'm uploading in about 30 min. Better subscribe or you might miss it!
Saw this vid 10 days ago. I was using carbide tools on some salvaged Doug fir that was logged 120 years ago. Lots of shredding. I made this tool, copied your grind, and was amazed at the finish!! I think I’ll pass on a $160 Sorby. BTW, I ground it by eye on a cheapo Delta 6” grinder.
I just found cobalt square steel 3/8" bits on ebay for a buck a piece. So, got all spendy and bought two of them. Thanks for the idea. New subscriber here.
John Turpin That's a great price! The local machinist shop hit me $2 each and some of the bits were used. Really glad you found the idea helpful. check out my follow up video on making 3 more tools with the same basic setup. thanks for watching!
That was a very informative and well made video. Great job! Just subscribed :)
I'm really glad you liked it! Thanks for subscribing. I've got more good videos in the works.
Nice job Rex well done mate, Aussie Chris
Hockey stick tape is also an excellent wrap for tool handles.
Thanks for sharing - I made two different sizes they work.
That's great! I still use this thing even though I've stepped up to some commercial gouges.
Rex,
I just watched your video and was TOTALLY blown away. 2 weeks ago, I did the EXACT same thing!!! It happened the exact same way it did to you - pushing a piece of wood with ONE push stick instead of two. It most DEFINITELY scares the hell out of you when you realize just how much worse it could have been!!! I actually look at it as a "gift" because. as you well know - when something like this happens, you very quickly become one HELL of a lot more careful.
Fortunately, my injury was nowhere near as bad as yours - it was on my left hand - the tip of my thumb... It didn't hit my thumbnail and the cut was only about 1/8th of an inch deep, but it felt like a rock had been thrown (very hard!) directly into the end of my thumb.
I didn't need to go to the doctor to take care of it. but even now, 2 weeks later, it's still a little painful. The scab is about the size of a pencil eraser and it "feels" awkward trying to use that hand...
It makes me wonder how many people are lucky enough to get a "wake up" call - rather than lose a finger, a hand or their life...
Thanks for sharing this!
Dennis
A small tip I saw elsewhere; start the tap with a pillar drill, but turn the drill chuck by hand. It ensures that the tap is perpendicular, very easily.
Another tip; the end of the handle cord could be fixed with superglue, or epoxy instead of a knot, which would be a neater finish.
niklar55 That's a good tip on the "pillar drill" (you must be in the UK). I've never tried it. as to the knot, I did soak it in CA glue, but you're right about it not being clean. the handles have the grip and thickness I want, but they're a bit messy. I need to make changes to make them tighter.
I'd advise against using superglue with cotton. It soaks in well but it'll make the fibres brittle & they can snap easily. Something like epoxy or even your usual wood glue (I use Titebond III) will secure things well & prevent fraying, provided you work it into the cotton a bit so it grips to the fibres. Old Titebond III actually works best since it thins once expired & will dry out with a little more flexibility than the fresh stuff.
no glue needed lay 2in pf chord on pipe wind it over itself take a6in chord double it to make a loop lay on pipe wind over it to end put end thru loop pull it under wind trim end no glue no knot
Hi Rex, I'm trying to make this and I thought I would share my experience regarding pipe size to help others out. The 3/8" square bits are too small for a 1/2" schedule 40 pipe. You need about 1/2" internal diameter for the 3/8 square bits to fit, but stupidly enough, the inside diameter of the 1/2" schedule 40 pipe is more than that ... about 0.62". I actually needed 3/8" schedule 40 pipe, which is almost exactly 0.5" internal diameter. So yes, definitely bring your bits to the hardware store.
I bought my supplies, and experienced the same issue: my 3/8” bit had a lot of slop in my 1/2” pipe. I will search for a 3/8” pipe, but I know they don’t carry them at my big-box home centers: 1/2” was the smallest.
scraper below center,will help.also sharpening the cutter at about 55 to 60 degrees will let you rub the bevel in a shearing cut.,
Finally got around to making mine. I found that the inside of the 1/2 pipe is a perfect fit for 7/16 " inserts, a little loose for 3/8. It fit 3/8 fine before I deburred it, but I won't use a pipe with a burr since the burr will eventually wear away and things will loosen up.
That's great! I hope you enjoy using it!
Material science is fun! :)
Great idea. I think I’ll make one then turn a wood handle for it.
Using a 3/8" bar shaped like yours makes a great hollowing tool , especially when turned at 45 degrees, Capt. Eddie has some instructions .
another thing is the satisfaction
Loved the history lesson at the start, and some metallurgy!! :) Looks like a good tool to have! Hope your daughter didn't puke in the bowl in the end ;)
Yuval.
Yuval Lahav Woodturning She's feeling much better now. thanks for watching!
I don't know if you are still reading comments from this video but on the chance you are and just in case you haven't yet learned of the many health hazards related to working with galvanized steel (the list would make this comment far to long). I have one friendly suggestion for you. I highly recommend you look up the hazards of working with it. Oh, and while you're at it check out chrome plating as well, that's a fun one.
Thanks for sharing. Try grinding a lip in the tool. It’s better. I’ve used these tools for 45 years. On all kinds of metal. I’m a retired machinist - making Wood Trompos.
Hello TC64, what's a Wood Trompo? 🤔
I made one using a 1/2" bar from Grizzley but didn round the edges, left a square tip, it is the best tool I've found for roughing , I don't slide it , I just push in and pull back repeatedly .
I used High Speed steel bars on both .
I've made some really good gouges out of the center shaft from a McPherson strut. The stuff hardens really well. I'm not a pro who uses them all day every day, but they last fine for me.
Very good idea for cheap reliable chisels. You could have shortened the pipe and add a wooden handle. I' ll try it definitely. If it works l' ll send some photos
THANKS YOU SIR
St-Germain Réal you're very welcome! thanks for watching.
The tool you made in this video really is just a round-nosed scraper, not a gouge. There is no flute nor wings, so it will not cut, only scrape. Oak isn't difficult at all, if you use sharp cutting tools.
That being said... GREAT video, great content, very thrifty and informational, and I might use this method to make myself a flat scraper I've been wanting (but not enough to pay for with my firstborn.) Thanks!
I cut/sheer cut all the time with scrapers and square carbide tools. Just turn them like you would a skew. No such thing as can't. Thanks and take care, Larry
Great ideas! But I get nervous with handles on turning tools that don’t give me a better mechanical advantage. I’ve watched a few videos that give a ratio between how much the bit hangs past the tool rest versus the minimum length of the handle. It’s astonishing how much the rule requires, something like five to even seven X. I’ll make one of these but probably have a 24 to 32 inch handle on it. Thanks for the great video inspiration.
Well, you often only need the tool hanging about an inch over the rest, so according to your formula, a 7 inch handle would be adequate. I've been turning with these tools for years now and the length of the handle has never once been an issue. Glad you liked the video!
Not my formula, I got it from Brian Havens. ruclips.net/video/cwqG8ImRC_Q/видео.html give it a look and tell me what you think. I’m wide open for suggestions.
Exactly, just a scraper try turning a 12"x3" hard oak bowl with that and see how it comes out. If you put an even crude flute in it with a 4" grinder it would be much better. Give it a go and really make it a "Gouge"
Hilariously, I DID turn an oak bowl with this tool in this very video. It came out well enough that it's currently for sale at a local kitchen store.
Actually this is not a scraper in use. It should be sharpened to 45* on the end and rounded back with a sort of Irish Grind shape like some use on a bowl gouge. It is presented to cut, not scrape, and on green wood you can really see the shavings fly, not the grindings fluff. The style Rex is using with the pipe and not the solid shaft is one I would call a "Quick Oland." I have made and used them in size from 1/8" cutters up to 1/2" cutters for over 15 years now and have used them for a lot of faceplate turnings including 16" to 18" bowls. The only time I use them for scrapers is to shear scrape with the tool on its side. Yes, I have bowl gouges and prefer the Oland tool Nice video Rex.
Darrell Feltmate
Whahhaha man I nearly fel off my chair cool man,next one old files make great tools;-))
Really glad you liked it. A little humor is good in technical videos.
There are 3 levels of taps, start , intermediate and finish. When hand working start with the starter tap. It is the most forgiving when you wobble. Then, move to the intermediate tap. This tap will go in straight and there will be a good but still unfinished. Complete the thread with the finishing tap. The result will be a very good set of threads that will be difficult to cross thread.
I think you need to use this type of tool starting from your tail stock and then working around the bowl pushing toward the headstock. Pushing it straight in as you did will only cause nasty catches.
And yet the tool does not catch. Amazing.
If you file, grind, or hammer a flat along the bottom of the pipe, it would be more sturdy on your tool rest and less likely to rock from side to side. Just an idea though and great video!
I don't think that's a good idea. You're always rolling the tool to the get the right cut. A flat would make it harder to handle.
clever
Thanks for the idea. Just what I was looking for. How do you like the harbor freight lathe? I just got one, but just starting out. Cheap lathe... Cheap tools. Right up my alley.
That lathe rules! I've had mine for almost 4 years and going strong with no repairs. If you're new to turning, check out my new book: _One Week to Woodturning_ it's an amazon, or go to rexkrueger dot com/book
I made mine using a piece of black pipe. The coating is easier on the hands and more aesthetic to me.
I've also made some tools with black pipe. Love it.
If you're from the UK, there is a really good company called Rutland's.
They sell all sorts of stuff but they do a £36 1/2 inch bowl gouge.
It's stood up to all my abuse
I hate to be a negative Nellie but the segment at 15:58 is not how it's supposed to be. A real turner would say that the tool is simply not working. A properly sharpened bowl gouge made of M2 HHS will remove wood quickly and with little effort, without having to be "bearing down as hard as I can." Oak is not a difficult wood to turn with a sharp bowl gouge, a real one, with a flute!
Jacobs chucks available @ Woodcraft and Rockler for a reasonable price.
Have you tried brazed carbide tools with this holder?
Thanks for the video. i'm using this tool for many tasks. really easy to master...
i have a non-woodturning question for you - what tools have you used to do the sketch-like metal explanation?
Izak Shoshana thanks for your positive comment. I'm really glad you like the tool. I do the animations with Videoscribe. it's not cheap, but it's also the only video production tool that I pay for. everything else I use is freeware.
Thanks Rex! found few tutorials and will give it a try.
Puking daughter gets thumbs up. Been there. Respect.
Thanks, bro!
Cobalt steel isn't harder than non-cobalt tool steel (M42 vs M2). In fact it's actually softer, in addition to being less tough. The difference is that an M42 piece of tool steel holds its hardness at a few hundred degrees hotter than regular old M2 steel. This is particularly useful when grinding the shape into the bit.
If you're looking for more information, read about tool steels and high speed steels (HSS) in wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-speed_steel, or in the machinist's bible, Machinery's Handbook.
Well, looks like I learned something new today! Thanks for the extra info!
This source seems to suggest cobalt is the element that makes the best HSS: www.hudsontoolsteel.com/site/CompareHighSpeedSteel
Love this idea. I can even see ways to improve the design, even using wooden handles. I have bits of metal...ok, some piles. lol I have been sorting a bit over years, pulling out any really heavy and hard stuff, and setting it aside. It probably isn't M2 or better, but I hadn't even considered using some high carbon pieces to make insert bits. I don't have to shape a long piece of metal! ;-) Wow, so simple, I like it.
I can build the tool and practice with a few high carbon steel bits, till I get more suitable steels.
One could have just one or two handles, and a wide variety of bits, to save space?
If you had say three bits the same, all sharp, you could continue a project without stopping to sharpen, if that is an issue. One could easily make bits that have two shaped/sharpened ends.
Hmmmmm, just need a good way to fasten an insert holder into a nice wooden handle ;-)
Tips for you Rex, and all. Cutting fluid isn't just about lubrication; in fact that is a lesser of its purpose. You need the metal to grab some to cut. Cutting fluid needs to COOL your metal, especially the bits. Drills for metal need to be tougher than the metal being drilled, and you need to drill slower and with more pressure than with wood drilling. There is friction; there has to be, to cut. Friction makes heat. Heat ruins your bits, fast. A really good cutting fluid, IMO, is designed to cool primarily, and should stick to your bits some. It is nice too if also designed to work with hand tapping. I didn't cheap out on this, and got some industrial stuff that isn't safe to touch LOL
I have some nice taps and dies and drill bits and they are not that cheap, and I usually have one of each, so I got the best protection I could find. There is a lot of science behind cutting fluids; and there are cheap fluids good for some jobs.
Wood working drill presses, BTW, run too fast on their lowest speeds for metal, except for small holes, but things go so much better tapping, if you can drill and tap really straight. So long as you get a nice straight hole, though, a "proper tap" should center itself in your hole. There are different taps for different holes. Personally I would not have tapped as you did with the vise. Too much changing horizontal pressures. It the vise were fastened down it would be easier to keep the tap straight. I would have made as clean and straight of hole as I could, and then, for that job, I would have just used my hands. One holding the tap and tool, the other holding the pipe. Why? Well, if that is a proper tap for hand tapping, it will center itself in your hole as you start. You can feel it. Fine for a short hole like that IMO. Hope this helps some.
Even better, of course would be the vise FIXED in place, holding the pipe level, with a tapping jig holding the tap perfectly straight.
Good taps are really hard metal and they break if not used well, and that becomes a real bother trying to get hardened steel out your hole lol
I have ❓ would leaf springs from an old 1977jeep be good for making wood turning Charles and would be good for making hand plane irons thanks in advance you always have good input
I love the puke bowl! And that's a round nose scraper rather than a gouge. A gouge has a hollow shape (gouged out).
Rex how many periodic tables were harmed in the making of this?
ive not found many places for the cobalt high speed steel, ebay is outrageous on the prices . 10 bucks for each small piece
John Hill Any metal lathe turning bit will do you. they're all hard as a coffin nail and easy to shape on the grinder. if you can't find cobalt exactly, there are many other alloys (like tantung g, for instance) that work plenty good for our purposes. good hunting.
I tore apart an old washing machine and took the center steel shaft and cut off and been grinding on it, its pretty hard steel, think it may work fine, its like 3/4 round.. thanks for the info
Great video, so in the end what was the bit made of, I just mist that bit. Just subscribed.
Regard Steve
SJS woodturning
Australia
The bit was made from Cobalt Steel, although any high-speed steel machinist's blank will work well. Thanks for your support!
Hi Rex, enjoyed the vid, always good to make your own tools. I made my own carbides with my friend this past weekend, it was quite a satisfying experience. Im not sure on budget bowl gouges over in the states but I only paid £22 (probably around $30) for mine from a place called axminster tools. It had a standard grind on it, and i couldnt use it for shit, but since changing it to a fingernail grind im finding it much easier to use. Maybe a cheap bowl gouge from harbour freight would be the equivalent? Anyway, take care, and keep on with the woodwork!
So glad you enjoyed the video. I actually just got a Sorby bowl gouge. I'm looking forward to doing a head-to-head comparison in the future. Cut to the chase: my tool is easier and more durable. Professional bowl gouge is more versatile, flexible, and leaves a better surface. It will be interesting when I really got good with the bowl gouge.
Yes, head to head comparison would be good..... Hope you manage to get a video up for that! Sorby is a pretty good brand, I've got a sorby Skew (given to me) but the rest of my lathe tools are really budget stuff, less than £80 (maybe $100) for the bowl gouge, 2 spindle gouges, parting tool, round nose scraper and spindle roughing gouge. Thought it would be better to get cheap stuff to start with, so i dont ruin decent tools whilst learning to sharpen them! Planning on doing some videos of my own eventually.... In the middle of rebuilding the kitchen and 2 months away from getting married, so it probably wont be until the new year, but I will get round to it at some point!
I'm in the same boat! A buddy just gave me the Sorby gouge, but the rest of my tools are all the cheap ones. Hey, make do with what you can afford!
Rex...1/4-20...1/4-24--10-24--6-32 The number in front is the size, the number in the rear is threads per inch. ie 10-24 has 24 threads per inch a 10-32 would have 32 threads per inch. You would have made a stronger scraper if you would have used a 10-32, same size set screw but with more threads per inch which would have more threads cut into your pipe. Oil is Very important when you are cutting threads. The reason you didn't have any trouble was the fact that the metal on the pipe isn't very thick. Also, you can put the tap in a cordless drill and with the setting set lower you can tap just fine with one.
I know what the numbers mean. I was just letting my viewers know that they don't need to get the whole numbering system to do the project. Also, I did use oil. I showed it clearly. i said you don't need TAPPING FLUID. Oil is fine. Still, thanks for the lovely explanation. You clearly know what you are talking about.
Why not use a big high speed drill bit and screw the screw end into a handle.
I'm seeing M4 turning bits. Is this the metal you're speaking of?
as a machinist for 30 years and drawing on that knowledge for a woodturning hobby you can obtain what is called brazed on carbide tools for turning on a metal lathe as a C8 with a C5 grade carbide for about 5.00 dollars and it is a 1/2 square shank with a 1/2 square carbide on it and you can grid any shape you want and hone it and it will cut any wood species with out a problem and there are all kinds of ready made shapes to chose from
Jack Russell jack, the only brazed on tools I've seen have a pretty small carbide bit and they are usually mounted to the side of the tool where they would be less useful for woodturning. what you're suggesting goes way beyond my limited knowledge of machine tools. could you throw up a link so the rest of us could check out the specific tools you're talking about? it sounds really interesting.
Rex, I think this is what he was talking about.C8 C5/C6 Carbide Tipped Tool Bit (2 Pcs.) www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5OJNGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KOPIAbVRCM53M
FWIW, you *can* make turning tools out of cobalt steel, if by "cobalt steel" you mean M42 HSS (8% cobalt). Both Carter and Son and D-Way sell them. I've got a few and they're great: they take a nice edge and hold it longer than M2. They're definitely not cheap, though.
If you want a ton of info on bowl turning using scrapers (and a scraper-like tool called the Big Ugly made from a weird alloy called "tantung"), check out the "Robohippy" channel. It has a lot of good videos from Reed Gray, a professional bowl turner in Oregon.
I've seen those and I do want to make one. Need to bug a friend with an oxy setup.
Offspring järf receptacle!! Technicolour yawn! The anti-peristalsis jig! Barking at the ants! Screaming at the worms! Evoking Barf-olemew! Shouting at Europe! Screaming for Ralph! LOL
Haha, i have three or four friends who have watched this video five times waiting for you to use the 25 drill bit. Also, did you consider putting a flute on the tool?
Padre Anacleto: Yeah, I was going to mention a flute, also.
So Rex was the bit perfectly angled when you bought it? For two bucks?!
Could i sharpen this as a skew?
Nope! You sure can't!
for the cutter you could use a shank of a drill bit
I've been thinking about that. I wonder if I could grind in a flute and make a "true" gouge.
use a bench grinder or a die grinder
PS if you weld an up right bar (maybe 2 " tall ) just after the tool "pocket" on your sharpening jig you will stop sliding off the grinding wheel
Edgunsuk huh. I might try that.
This will probably cut even better if you polish the top surface of the bit, because it will give a much finer edge than the mill scale that's there now.
A great point. I actually hone the top with a diamond plate, but this video was already long, so I left out some details.
Bro , I think it wasn't the material that failed you. I would suggest you get on sharpening it better 🌷
Does the % of cobalt make a difference? I'm seeing a few different amounts out there.
Curt ST. ROMAIN Good question. no, the percent cobalt makes no difference for wood turning. in fact, even high-speed steel works great for these tools.
I don't think your oak bowl is big enough for all of your little daughters pook! Nice demo. I have just subscribed.
Hiya, what app did you use to make the groovy animation? I've just found your channel and I think it's brilliant.
I'm glad you like it! I used Videoscribe. It's a good program and easy to use, but not cheap. It's subscription-based and costs $80 a year. I no longer use it because I can't justify the cost.
Rex Krueger Cheers Rex. I’ll check it out. Keep up the great work! 😀😀
Guacabowle!
Hockey Stick Tape! --- Just my two cents.
If you don't have a tapping tool you can pre drill a, smaller size then the screw and screw it in carefully, with soft metal should go fine just be careful to no break the screw inside the hole, it happened to me and it wasn't funny
oak is a pain to work with but so worth it in the end . so its been over a year later and you have had time to use it at least a little bit right do you still enjoy this set up or is it just not worth all the effort .hey maybe a year later review video see im not even that old of a sub and already helping ya lol .
It's interesting: this was my only bowl tool for most of the last year. I did a lot of big and ambitious turnings with it and some of them even sold. But I recently met an older and very experienced turner and he gave me a few bowl gouges. They are much harder to learn, but they work much better. Now I use them more, but I'd never give up my home-made tool. It still does things that no other tool can and it's very tough, so I can turn crazy materials with it like resin and copper and I never have to worry about the tool. I'm thinking of doing a comparison video called "homemade tool vs. pro-made tool". Might be fun.
10:42 and almost 20 seconds in silence. That is quality. And Rex, do leave these segments in. They matter.
Thank you!
Why not just make a carbide bit tool? They work very well for turning and are very durable and there are many videos on you tube showing how to make them. They work both on end grain and very well on side grain. I have even used them almost exclusively for making a bowl from a green piece of firewood.
That's a great question. I'm really interested in carbide and I'll be making some of those as soon as I have a spare minute. But to answer your question, I think these tools have some big advantages.
1.) Cost. These tool bits can be found for as little as $1.
2.) Re-use. High-speed steel is easy to resharpen with the grinder you already have. Carbide is generally disposable.
3.) Custom tools. These bits are intended to be ground to whatever shape the machinist needs. The turner can do the same thing and even have several bits for each handle.
Good point! :) May have to try one. Always a good excuse for making another tool and another handle!
Glad you think so. I like tool-making almost as much at the actual woodworking.
Or something that takes inserts... Amazon has tooling and inserts cheap
Watch a fishing rod building video on how they put on the eyes there is an easy way to finish of your cord with out a knot. Which is basically on do the last 6 turns at the knot place a u shape or doubled pcs of cord with the doubled u part past where the knot was rewrap the cord, put end thru the u and pull it under the 6 wraps. Lol watch video I'm terable at explaining
Yeah - exactly my thought - the process is called 'whipping', if I recall correctly, and the whole of the cord is glued in place.
Call it "The Guac"