Missing Rivets? Here's How To Put Raised Rivets On Your Scale Models
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- Anyone can do this quick and easy technique that adds a lot of detail to your scale modeling. This video will show you how to add raised or positive rivets to your model. Learn how to mask canopies with CHOCOLATE! • How to EASILY Mask Can...
Products used:
Fantasia Liquid Mousse Spray: amzn.to/3zSJFmz
Solder Balls: amzn.to/3jOjtE2
(Amazon affiliate links. The Empty Sprue may receive a tiny portion of your purchase in commission. This does not affect your prices in any way)
That is a great technique. I will try it because I always had problems with positive riveting. Thanks, mate. You are wise. 😉
WOW! THANKS!
And thanks so much for the share! SUPER Appreciate it! 😀🙏😎
Oh boy, brace yourselves, Plasmo is going to do something EPIC!
Haha! I saw this and thought "This is just the kind of insane detailing Plasmo would go nuts for," and hey presto here you are! Love your videos. Mr Sprue - top, top work!
Oh wow! Just wow. Well done fella.
Well proof there's always something new to pick up being an experienced modeler! Love your video's!
At 3 large coffee a day, l can only appreciate this as a viewer.
This tutorial was riveting.
🤣
That is hardcore modeling. The smallest rivet work I've ever done is using tiny doll eyes for 40K terrain. Thanks for making this "How to" video.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
WoW, it's incredible the things you can learn on RUclips... After graduating from college and accepting my first position as a shiny new engineer, the Chief said to me "like every one of us kid, now you LL understand just how much you don't know
Micro solder balls were a good shout out. I was struggling with micro nail beads being just a tad too big so this helped, thanks.
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching! Hope you find it useful!
I finally got ahold of some .2 MM balls and tried using regular hair spray because that liquid Mousse is expensive online and I couldn't locate a store that sold it locally. Hairspray didn't hold the rivets securely at all. They would brush right off even after a coat of paint. Then I thought of trying to use Future as a fixer. Future worked really well in a small test. The best thing about using the Future was that after a coat of paint the rivets did not pull up after putting a piece of Tamiya tape over it. This technique works! Thanks for sharing.
That's some good info on using the Future, especially that it was able to stand up to taping! Thanks for watching and the comment!
My anxiety just went through the roof just thinking about doing this.
I see more Lexapro in my future!
i just started rivet works 2 months ago
but this is a great technique i ever see.tqvm sharing your great work.
Glad it was helpful!
That is dedication to the hobby.
Thanks William! The part on the video is for my super detailed F-105 build. Kind of one if those - "let see how far I can push it" kind of builds 🙂👍
I am delighted to see this! While you are an aviation modeler, it is just as useful to railroad, armor, and fantasy modelers. Definitely will be using this solution for my steampunk machinery.
Many thanks!
I applaud your patience!!
Thank you so much!😃👍
Simply brilliant.
That's clever Brian. One trick to remember.
Thanks Rene! Glad to see a familiar "face" over here! 🙂
You're my hero! I bought this balls to add positive rivets on my 1/35 MH-60R, HH-60H, HH-60G. Your tecnique is much more easy and fast that I imagine. For me the music didn't interfere with your instructions during the video. Really thank you.
Awesome, glad to hear it! Yea, the music wasn't everyone's favorite. I didnt think it was THAT loud 🤔😃
@@TheEmptySprue Do you think that if I paint with a black primer before putting the balls in, it will make viewing easier?
@@andremendonca3516 I would think it would be a little more difficult, simply because the holes will be a little less obvious
Join the FB group and post some photos!
Pretty cool, I didn't know such things as micro solder balls were a thing. I've done larger models by drilling holes and filling with styrene rod, clipping slightly above the surface then lightly sanding the nubs.
Thank you for demonstrating the technique. However, I found it difficult to hear what you were saying due to the background music.
Ok, thank you
Speaking as a man whose job it is to make REAL rivets to this scale and then upset them, I watched this and thought... "I wish!!!"
Good job all the same mon ami... You nailed it! (Pun intended) 😉🏆⚒️🇬🇧
Thank you so much!
It works really well on some tanks and ships many thanks man.
Glad to help
This is a really great technique! Thank you!
Thank you!
Cracking idea....thankyou!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
What an exercice of patience. Modelers are close to nirvana.
I'm getting back into modeling now that I'm approaching retirement and I've been listening to a few podcasts. Things have changed a lot, for the good, but I kept hearing people joking about being a "rivet counter". Now it all makes sense.
If you’re approaching retirement you’ll have popped your clogs by the time you’ve added a couple of dozen rivets using that method!
Guilty as charged. But only for my own personal use, I dont "rivet count" other peoples work.
As a returning modeler, anything you'd like to see a video on in particular?
Its all about that Optivisor! 😁
@@TheEmptySprue Hopefully you know I'm only joking. My Dad didn't build plastic models but he would be the wooden ship equivalent of a rivet counter. A plank counter maybe? The stuff he did in the 70s and 80s with nothing but hand tools is incredible, museum quality work. I can't imagine what he would be doing today were he still alive with all the myriad of small tools and products available to him now.
I enjoy watching and learning all the little tips, even the rivet counting. Easy enough to see full builds on any channel but they are much more useful to me, and others I would assume, if you include details. Products used, stuff you've learned in working with them, what to avoid etc.Full builds have their place too but without the narrative and ins and outs of the products and techniques, it's just entertainment.
I wouldn't ask for anything in particular since I have so much to catch up on just keep up the good work!
Oh my God, it's the next level crazy mate. wow
I only can dream of doing this much.
You are smart brother
Fantastic idea!
Thank you! 😊
this is amazing thank you so much for this i need to positive rivets for a 1/48 mi 24 because i got a ton of aftermarket parts with raised rivets and this technique will improve it a lot.
Glad I could help, it's a nice trick to have in your pocket
Me too the Zvezda Mi-24 is bald as a babies behind. I could be riveting for weeks.
You should buy one of those Warhammer hand-drills. They're awesome to drill tiny holes...
This is bloody excellent.
Thanks for checkin it out!
Wow that's a cool tip, thanks mate !
Hey thanks so much! I just watched your Eduard Finnish 109 build last night, learned a few things myself!
That's a really cool technique!
Thank you! Cheers!
Highest Props!!! Detail Insane!!!
Appreciate it!
Thanks for this. I had come across the solder balls and bought a couple of bottles, 0.35 and 0.55, but hadn't yet figured a way of placing them. You make this look easier than it probably is, but at least using the hair mouse if it looks bad the balls can be released with just a cotton bud dipped in some water. I might also experiment with some Terpene adhesive, a very mild solvent used for delicate styrene welding, much less aggressive than the usual liquid solvents but wouldn't have the 'chipping' effect you mention when it comes to painting.
Let me know how it the experiment with the Terpene goes. The big advantage of the mousse is it gives you basically unlimited working time. If it starts to dry out, you can just re-wet it with more mousse. However, I don't think it's the STRONGEST bond, but it certainly seems to be sufficient so far, especially after a few good coats of Mr. Surfacer.
Thanks for watching!
Oof, tedious but totally worth it for the effect! Great idea and tutorial.
Definitely worth it, and it really wasnt too bad. I think I did all 4 petals in less than 4 hours
There are also 3D rivets printed on decal paper, common in model railroad community, by Archer. Micro-Mark makes an inferior version. This microball method adds a really neat process to the modeling tool-box👍👍. Very cool idea.
HGW also makes wet transfer rivets. but the amount of rivets on one small part, most not being a very long run, would've been probably more challenging with decal rivets than it was with the micro balls.
@@TheEmptySprue Having this technique available has its benefits! I'm going to order up some of the solder balls... actually have an application where the decal type are not going to work easily, and this method will! Thanks again for showing us this great method.
Man you are so patient!!
Some builds require it 🙂
They look a little bit over sized on the plane, but must be awesome in a Mad-Max, Mechwarrior or Orc-based theme! I used small plastic balls I found in standard household-water filters for the same purpose. They stick very well and the top of the rivets can be sanded off a bit for a realistic look.
Thanks for the info!
Awesome technique! I can't wait to try this out! I also just subscribed to the channel! Found it just by chance!
Hope you enjoy!
Großartig 👍
Recently obliterated some positive rivets on my ki43 with a drop of cement, I assumed all hope was lost gonna try this tho thanks for the idea. Subbed!
Oh that's good timing then! Let us know how it works out for ya! Thanks so much for subscribing, super appreciate it!
Great tip! This has always bugged me, using a riveter tool to make recessed rivets when raised were what was called for. Although, lately, i haven't been doing fine scale modeling, just warhammer 40k stuff.
I completely agree. Replacing panel lines is easy enough with stretched sprue, but the lost rivets was much more challenging until now! Thanks for watching!
Great idea!
Glad you think so!
Please keep making videos🙏🏻
Woah! This is impressively tiny work.
Loved it - gonna watch it again and take notes (happy nerd face) something extra great was a kinda Bob Ross vibe - dig it! Gonna check out your other videos thanks for sharing the knowledge
WOW! Thank you so much, really happy you found the video useful! Thanks for watching....then watching again!😁🙂👍
Impressive!
Thanks! I'll be puttin' paint on these parts here real soon! Just a few years later lol
Clever!
Great tip..!!!! I do a lot of scratch building might be helpful one day ... thanks..
Ive really gotten into scratch building, so much fun. This is definitely a great skill to have in the ol Tool box
You're a genious !
Well, I've been called many things! lol, thanks!
素晴らしいリベット！
プラモデルのリベット表現にはいろいろな方法があると思いますが、私の知っている中で一番面倒くさい、一番確実な方法ですね！！！
Thanks! Glad you like it, hope you find it useful!
@@TheEmptySprue ,
Thank you!
I think the music doesn't help much...
I liked the video cause it's very informative but I'd suggest avoiding the "music carpet" when you talk.
would "future" work in place of the mousse? .,great idea, great vid.
It's possible. I started out trying to use Tamiya X-22 thinned to different ratios, but drying was a continuing problem, so that's when I tried the liquid hair mousse.
This just popped up on the RUclips menu .. I suspect the RUclips bot noticed I was watching Model Railroad techniques for structures and it went .. DUDE .. this might be of interest. It was.
Awesome! Appreciate you checking it out! This technique certainly has more use than just aircraft rivets!
This is a really cool idea, and I've got to admit, it looks pretty fun to try :) I'd be worried about my big thumbs knocking off all of those lead solder balls, do you prime it afterwards to sort of sealing them in for handling?
I used Mr Surface 1500 black to prime over afterwards. The mousse doesnt provide a super strong hold, but unless you're trying to scrape them.off, they stay in place. Im going to experiment with some other adhesive methods as well
@@TheEmptySprue Hello Sir. For clarification, you only use the mousse? Also, in lieu of mousse, can you recommend a specific adhesive to use? Thank you.
I have not tried any other adhesive other than the liquid mousse. I'm sure there's other options out there. The important thing is that whatever adhesive you DO use doesn't leave much or any film thickness after it dries, or you'll see the glue after painting.
Great idea. I wonder if the hair mousse will be resistant to further painting, i.e. allow the paint to adhere in a way that it resists to further steps like masking and weathering?
I would treat it the same as a hair spray coating, as that's essentially what the mousse is, only slight thicker. The part in the thumbnail was painted with Mr Surfacer and had no issues. Masking? Not sure I'd got that far with it. I have a feeling tape would pull off several "rivets"
If I had my choice, I'd prefer the same characteristics of the mousse, but with a stronger bond
Hi,
Great video and technique.
I've got a few techniques for adding rivets or bolt heads but yours is new to me and will help with a specific - tedious - project I've been putting off.
I'm wondering if Johnson's Klear will affix them?🤔🤔😉
I think I tried it and it didn't have enough hold. I could be remember wrong and it'd certainly be worth experimenting. I had a fellow modeler suggest another product for the glue, I'll have to see if I can find where he told me what it was.
@@TheEmptySprue Hi Thanks, I'll bear that in mind, Klear might be a bit weak, I agree. Your technique is perfect for the job though👍😊
holy solder balls batman, we are way beyond rivet counting now, arent we 🤣🤣
Wow, that's amazing!
A lazy modeler like me can never do it.
You can do it!
Just bought right now the same liquid gel and a pack of different sizes, from amazon, starting on 0.3 /0.35/04/0.45/05/0.55/06/0.65/0.76-23,19 euros the whole pack...no 0.2 unfortunately...I will comment about the scales through this month. Thanks man. It was a genius idea.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Never thought of using solder this way. really smart though, but the hairspray as a glue might be a bit of an issue when it comes to painting and weathering. wonder if a laquer varnish would work...
Thanks Claes! I primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black, thinned 1:1 with Mr Leveling Thinner. I think it's a good idea to avoid using a waterbase primer or paint over the mousse, as I suspect it would behave similarly to a hairspray coating (chipping effect)
Thanks so much for watching!
Loved this technique, and I am soon gonna be doing this. Would primer work well? It sounds like it would since it is liquid but dries leaving no unwanted residue. Maybe it would not hold well until it was painted and clear coated?
Yes it does! The "after" part was primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black, thinned 1:1 with Mr Leveling Thinner. I think it's a good idea to avoid using a waterbase primer or paint over the mousse, as I suspect it would behave similarly to a hairspray coating (chipping effect)
Thanks so much for watching!
I respect the work done here. But I could never do it lol :)
It's really much easier than it might appear, especially if you are adding them to recessed rivets made at the manuf.
Finally someone comes up with a way of creating raised rivets. The recessed kind just don't look real. But I need some clarification, you only use the mousse as your glue? And this actually holds the solder balls in place? Or you paint over the solder balls and moose and that's the final step? Anyway, thanks for a great technique!
The mousse is the primary bonding agent. I assume the added primer and paint adds to the bond. I've not yet tested how durable the bond is, but I've yet to have any fall of yet.
So a better "glue" is maybe pledges revive it a.k.a. clear/future floor wax.tho its not a wax at all.its an acrylic clear gloss.and its super tuff and sticky.but im sure you've heard of it already.lol.
I did not try Future yet. I had tried some Tamiya clear in various thinner ratios, and found it to dry too quickly to work appropriately. The mousse is thick enough to do the job well and still dry flat to the surface so there are no surface irregularities. I plan to experiment with some other glue types for this technique. Thanks for watching!
Hi there, I'm late to this party however I thought I'd offer some advice or suggestions'. The hair mousse for adhering the "rivets" seems to work great, have you tried using a rhinestone picker/wax pen to pick up and place the solder balls? I can see that the method you use would seem faster for placing lots of rivets at a time though. I have used solder balls to place detailed eyes in miniature figures for a while, and a wax pen lets me accurately pop them in place easily 😉
I'd think the solder balls are way too small for a rhinestone holder tool. It's really very simple to pick them up with a wet brush, then manuever them into place with the same brush.
@@TheEmptySprue It's a pencil with a wax inner. you can sharpen it to a fine point. It will pick up anything from tiny screws, solder balls, etc. google wax picker or wax pencil. The one I have currently happens to be aimed at nail art and has a wax end and a pusher end (shaped like a nail punch) bt standard the are just like pencils
👍
I think you just solved my issue with the Kitty Hawk SH60B model kit! How easy is to sand them down slightly so they are not so proud of the surface?
You dont. They only look so "proud" because I'm incredibly zoomed in, to the naked eye they look proper imo
Took some balls to complete that.
😁
There's also filler material for resins & epoxies that might have suitable spherules. I have glass beads used for media blasting, but they're probably around .5mm (at a guess).
As for the mousse ... I wonder if it's a vinyl based spray like the liquid hairsprays? Regular mousse wouldn't have a good hold at all and I'd worry about the paint not having anything to bond with and "floating" on the model over time.
In no way is this "easy" though. That looks incredibly tedious - though the result looks amazing.
I presume it would behave the same as a hairspray application would for chipping. Only, you wouldn't necessarily do the chipping. I primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 and it bonded just fine. The hold on the solder balls isn't incredibly strong, but so far has been enough to keep them in place.
Thanks for watchin!
You sir are a very clever and patient man, I didn't even know about micro solder balls ! I can feel a Lancaster build coming on :-)
I quite like the relaxing background music too but it needs to be be a bit more in the backgound ! just saying.
I'd rather hear your narration a little more you have a nice voice, Just my opinion.
Thank you for sharing this great idea.
That would look awesome! This particular build (1/48 Monogram F-105D) has TONS of time put into, so when there's an opportunity to add more detail to it, the extra time is of no consequence.
Great video Brian! What scale were the plastic parts?
Thank you Daniel, I was working with 1/48 in the video
@@TheEmptySprue pretty innovative! post amazon link to solder ballz!
Just got the solder balls in today. OMFG the .2 balls look like dust. The .25 you can almost see them and the .35 can be seen ok. I may hae to go larger than .35 for 1/35 scale rivets.
VMS aggregate fixer may work well for this.
This technique works best when you seal them under a coat of clear lacquer
😲 wow
😃👍
Nice technique. A'lways thought indented rivets look odd.
Thank you! Cheers!
What scale are you working with in this example? I am working 1/48. Would the .2mm be the size?
These parts are 1/48 exhaust petals from the F-105. The .2 or .25 seemed perfect to me
What made you think to use hair mousse? Such a thing would never have crossed my mind.
I had purchased the mousse to mix with a snow product to thicken it up. Seemed like the right thing for what I needed, at least with what I had on hand. I was experimenting with a few different clears before I found that the mousse was working the best overall for what I had on hand
Великолепная идея
Cool idea, but there has to be a better way.
May be one could dump these balls into a syringe and find a needle with just the right diameter, then tap for each ball to fall into its position?
I'm thinking about an applicator pen of sort.
It really goes pretty fast especially if you're dealing with a model that came with recessed rivets. You can do about 10 or more at a time then. It's just a matter of pushing them around until the drop in the hole. It's kinda like Whack-a-mole 😄
Where can I find a rivet tool like yours?
This one?
amzn.to/3q5rkjd
What types of beads did you use and where did you get them?
Micro solder balls on ebay
@@TheEmptySprue Thanks.
for month i search this information, even some modelers just want keep technique to be known for personal without sharing with fellow modelers
What tools name like tracing wheel in 2:44 ?
It's that pattern tracing for tailoring ?
It's called a Mini Rivet-R by RB PRoductions. Unfortunately RB stopped producing them I think. Perhaps you can still find them out there somewhere. Here's a link to the product. I did not buy mine from this site: www.aviationmegastore.com/rivet-r-mini-rivet-tool-rb-productions-rb-t010-scale-modelling/product/?action=prodinfo&art=90405
@@TheEmptySprue thank you
before watching this vid I thought, "oh easy just use a normal map", then I realised its an actual physical model.
If 3D printing tech keeps improving, eventually we'll be able to apply displacement maps to physical models.
3D printer is on the shopping list for the somewhat near future hopefully
How do you remove the liquid residue?
You dont
@@TheEmptySprue Okaaayyy... How does the primer behave? Will it stay on, when you accidently touch the spot where it is applicated?
Just to be safe, I chose to use Mr. Surfacer as a primer because its not acrylic. My suspicion is that the hair mousse should behave the same as a hairspray undercoat (used for chipping) in that it would only be affected by a water based topcoat, but I havent experimented with it. I just used what I had on hand that seemed to make the most sense. Im sure theres other options out there for securing the balls to the surfcace, but this liquid mousse has seemed to work really well
But did you count the rivets for accuracy? ;)
😁 actually..... 🤣😅😆
Archer decals are far easier to apply. Try! You'll see.
I had no issues. There's more than one way to do alot of things in our hobby. I may try them on future products though!
Archer is out of business, I believe…
@@monolight1327 bad news. Didn’t know that.
Maybe turn the background music down by half, and maybe talk a little slower. Its somewhat hard to hear you clearly whilst fighting with the music.
This is really cool tho :o
Thank you for the feedback, Im always trying to improve my videos and your input is helpful
I think this would be perfect for a guy doing life :-\
Lol, true. 😂
The rivets count is infinite. A total crazyness and a great idea anyways.
Indeed it is! One of those builds! It'll be stunning if I ever get it across the finish line!
OCD at its highest. lol. Carry on, dude.
Right on target! LOL, thanks Brian!
i like your name
I almost wish I didn't care so much about detail now lmao
'Easy' is clearly a relative term.
5*****
🌟
I'm going blind just by looking at this video!
🙈😂
Congratulations for the idea, but... isn't this effect a little bit overkill? And requires a lot of patience.
Guess it depends on your tolerance for patience. It was no trouble at all for me. This was done on a model that is in it's 3rd year of construction. It's literally been an exercise in patience. Thanks for watching!
Please fix the framerate nex time
Whats wrong with it?
Nice technique, but I can see the men in their white coats coming to take me away after a few sessions> :)
You and me both!
this is what we call in my country, a job for prisoners
Scale model prison! Where all the panel lines are raised, parts are covered in ejector pin marks and you're only allowed to use old school tube glue! 😈🥴
I cant hear YOU
Sorry. You can turn on subtitles.
Nope
It looks amazing, but it also looks like masochism.
Thanks! Sometimes that strive for maximum detail requires such tedious tasks. Its not too bad once you get in the zone