How could you not like this, with in depth explanations of not just what to do, but why it’s done in that particular way. The deepest build secrets shared in a humorous and understandable way. How many actually back off the bolt when rechecking the torque? How many times have we been perplexed by whether to use a gasket or gasket cement and how many would take the trouble to cover the threads in order to protect the seal. Fathomless experience in one apparently so young. I’m sure there must be a portrait in the attic that’s aging by the week, but credit also to the quality and closeup of the video, making you feel as if you are there with your own private tutor. Can’t wait to hear it run!
Just seen this excellent educational video. Two comments at BMC we always used the spacer tubes and washers, part nos. C-AEG 392 and AEG168. on race engines, to reduce friction and to line the rockers exactly over the valves, I noticed that yours had springs. We also used the competition rocker shaft C-AEG399 and the modified pedestals. This was back in 1964ish so these strengthened parts may have been incorporated in the newer production engines. To protect the primary gear seal we used plastic drinks dispenser cups.
Honestly Tony, I do the exact same thing on all my customer cars spacers and washers on the shaft to get the rocker in the right spot. This is my own engine and its a bit of a Bits engine I put together a few years ago to get the car out racing. I have full intentions of building a full house 1293 for it but as yet havent found the time haha. I think these rockers come with the tougher shaft as standard. Plastic cup is a great idea 👍👍👍
I commented previously that these videos are among the best ‘A’ Series ones on RUclips . I’m upgrading that the THE best. Really useful and the whole casual style complimenting the very obvious depth of knowledge makes for a brilliant watch 😎
Thanks so much for the lovely words Ryan I am so proud of this little community we are building of good people and shared Knowledge thanks so much for the support hope you have a lovely new year 👍
@@HREIRL I dabbled in a few hillclimbs in NI for a few years in the pictured Elise , with some decent results. I’ve been away from it for a couple of years but was planning a return in 2022. Watching these videos is making me seriously consider either a Mini or Midget for the historic class. I have one of each in the garage. I’ve built several road going A series engines in the past which went and survived well. I’ll continue to watch everything you have on here and make a decision ! Watch this space 👀
From memory it was over forty years ago, I think the flywheel bolt torque was recommended to be 110 ft lbs but in practice we never went more than 90 ft lbs. The reason being that you sometimes would not have enough clutch lever throw to release the clutch and I've seen the bars bent and slave cylinder rods extended and spacers behind the thrust bearing. Our thinking was that torquing the flywheel up beyond 90 ft lbs spread the taper on the flywheel thereby increasing the necessary travel of the thrust bearing to release the clutch. I might add these were standard A series engines not race spec. Early A series gearbox casings were porous and leaked oil so I had a run of changing 34 gearbox casings under warranty before BMC came up with the fix of draining the oil overnight, cleaning the casing and applying belzona to the outside to seal it. Sweet memories, I have so enjoyed your vids with the explanations given for the methodology of the build. You have made an old man very happy.
"FT" = finger tight? 🤔 Your videos are amazing and the knowledge you share here is priceless. You make everithing appear so simple even if it's not and that's truly amazing. I hope more videos will be coming soon again
Agree about temp effecting Loctite. 150 Deg C will "unlock" Loctite, so if you have something small that someone used red Loctite on, heat it up with a soldering iron.
Yes I have had a few engines through the shop that have shown symptoms of a loose flywheel bolt and generally when I investigate there is locktite on the bolt. Locktite is a wonderful product in the right place but high temp is not that place
Once again full of interesting information and useful tips explained with intelligence and humor. Great stuff and thank you. (whoever is giving the thumbs down for these videos beware.............I am on to you).
Decent vids dude, a couple of things-why only a single timing chain? , setting valve clearance - I use mirror image from centre as much easier, and I didn't see the oil ring on the gearbox on the pick up? 😁👍
We use a very special simplex timing chain with alloy cam gear and steel crank sprocket and an IWIS chain. It is lighter than the duplex kit and puts much less stress on the valve train. Yes perfectly good method of setting the Clarence with 1/3/4/2 there is a couple of ways :) if you pause the video at 9.50s you will see the black o-ring on the oil pick up but you are right I didn’t mention it 👍 thanks for watching appreciate the comments 😁
interesting as ever Paul, no flywheel bolt lock washer? I've never torqued up the rocker adjusters before, didnt know there was a setting!, apart from 'tight'. We laughed at the old rule of 9, we have the rule of 8 and 10!
Hay Rich, I stoped using those about 5 years ago when one split (brand new) and let the torque off the bolt on me, resulting in the flywheel coming a drift and destroying the nose of the crank. Ya have always torqued the rockers after one came loose on the Dyno on me and made a right mess. You will have to explain the rule of 8 to me hahaha 🤣
Great detail as always. Is the idler gear (“drop gear”) bearing failure a thing of the past now, with modern materials? I remember back in the day the needle bearing would fail and chew it’s way through the clutch housing - spelled death for many many ADO16 cars!
Its still a thing but these high quality straight cut drop gears and some careful assembly and measuring insure they last the life time of the motor. thanks for tuning in 👍
I’ve just been introduced to your videos and what a treat they are. Thank you for sharing so many tips and techniques. Do you use ARP lube on the head studs and the extra bolts? Also, some people advise lower torque on 10 and 11 due to the reduced deck thickness at the ends. What do you think?
Hi Andy and a warm welcome to the channel great to have you with us, Yes ARP lube on any ARP bolts I use and on the others I use molybdenum disulphate grease on the others. I use a Special 10.9 Cap Head for the 10th and 11th stud and tap the block M10.1.25 so am able to torque it to the standard head stud torque
Great video Paul. Quick question I was always told to dab a bit of oil on the flywheel housing seal and the timing chain cover seal to stop any nasty squeaking on start up just wanted to know your thoughts on that
Slipped my mind to mention it Gavin senior moment haha, but tis there you can just make it out at 9.50 if you pause the video. Thanks for for watching out and thanks for commenting 👍
Hi fella new to channel watch most ov ur vids, how was the gearbox baffle made, can't find a mention of it in any vids or have I missed one, keep up the great vids, graham
It all depends on the Camshaft Ian, If the cam is a modern hardened verity and you have a cylinder head setup for higher lift then I would be inclined to see them as an advantage but if the engine is standard for all other intensive purposes I would be inclined to just use the standard pressed steel rockers welded for strength
@@CooperSTraveller In that case buddy I would be inclined to stick with the standard setup, with that said the Metro cam is a decent cam and can handle roller rockers as long and new correct profile followers where fitted 👍
How could you not like this, with in depth explanations of not just what to do, but why it’s done in that particular way. The deepest build secrets shared in a humorous and understandable way. How many actually back off the bolt when rechecking the torque? How many times have we been perplexed by whether to use a gasket or gasket cement and how many would take the trouble to cover the threads in order to protect the seal. Fathomless experience in one apparently so young. I’m sure there must be a portrait in the attic that’s aging by the week, but credit also to the quality and closeup of the video, making you feel as if you are there with your own private tutor. Can’t wait to hear it run!
Thanks Thomas you are very kind. I do wish I had that picture in the Attic the greys are creeping in now to remind me of my seniority.
Couldn't agree more or have said it better.
always worth watching ,, and yes enjoyed too ,,, hurry up with the next one guv ...
Thanks Acrchy glad you enjoyed thanks for watching buddy 👍
These videos are fantastic. Very well explained with plenty of detail. You are a natural
Just seen this excellent educational video.
Two comments at BMC we always used the spacer tubes and washers, part nos. C-AEG 392 and AEG168. on race engines, to reduce friction and to line the rockers exactly over the valves, I noticed that yours had springs. We also used the competition rocker shaft C-AEG399 and the modified pedestals. This was back in 1964ish so these strengthened parts may have been incorporated in the newer production engines. To protect the primary gear seal we used plastic drinks dispenser cups.
Honestly Tony, I do the exact same thing on all my customer cars spacers and washers on the shaft to get the rocker in the right spot. This is my own engine and its a bit of a Bits engine I put together a few years ago to get the car out racing. I have full intentions of building a full house 1293 for it but as yet havent found the time haha. I think these rockers come with the tougher shaft as standard. Plastic cup is a great idea 👍👍👍
I commented previously that these videos are among the best ‘A’ Series ones on RUclips . I’m upgrading that the THE best. Really useful and the whole casual style complimenting the very obvious depth of knowledge makes for a brilliant watch 😎
Thanks so much for the lovely words Ryan I am so proud of this little community we are building of good people and shared Knowledge thanks so much for the support hope you have a lovely new year 👍
@@HREIRL I dabbled in a few hillclimbs in NI for a few years in the pictured Elise , with some decent results. I’ve been away from it for a couple of years but was planning a return in 2022. Watching these videos is making me seriously consider either a Mini or Midget for the historic class. I have one of each in the garage. I’ve built several road going A series engines in the past which went and survived well. I’ll continue to watch everything you have on here and make a decision ! Watch this space 👀
From memory it was over forty years ago, I think the flywheel bolt torque was recommended to be 110 ft lbs but in practice we never went more than 90 ft lbs. The reason being that you sometimes would not have enough clutch lever throw to release the clutch and I've seen the bars bent and slave cylinder rods extended and spacers behind the thrust bearing. Our thinking was that torquing the flywheel up beyond 90 ft lbs spread the taper on the flywheel thereby increasing the necessary travel of the thrust bearing to release the clutch. I might add these were standard A series engines not race spec. Early A series gearbox casings were porous and leaked oil so I had a run of changing 34 gearbox casings under warranty before BMC came up with the fix of draining the oil overnight, cleaning the casing and applying belzona to the outside to seal it. Sweet memories, I have so enjoyed your vids with the explanations given for the methodology of the build. You have made an old man very happy.
Paul F T = F ing Tremendous brilliant rebuild can’t wait for the start up stay safe 👍👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Thanks Paul you are very kind 👍
"FT" = finger tight? 🤔
Your videos are amazing and the knowledge you share here is priceless.
You make everithing appear so simple even if it's not and that's truly amazing.
I hope more videos will be coming soon again
You make the rebuilding look so easy and fun!
haha thanks man, I do honestly enjoy every minute and having you guys along with me in the shop makes it all the better thanks for watching 👍
I am so pleased I watched Keith's associated video about the swing arm!! Loving the engine videos you have !!!
Thanks Jon
Agree about temp effecting Loctite.
150 Deg C will "unlock" Loctite, so if you have something small that someone used red Loctite on, heat it up with a soldering iron.
Yes I have had a few engines through the shop that have shown symptoms of a loose flywheel bolt and generally when I investigate there is locktite on the bolt. Locktite is a wonderful product in the right place but high temp is not that place
great video, can't wait to hear this engine sing
Thanks Paul video up Wednesday very exciting
Anther great video, looking forward the next one.
Thanks Matthew we had great fun shooting it over the weekend will be up
Wednesday 👍
Cracking job once again lads. "FT" - (frighteningly tight) 😂
I think me might have to start a I shirt competition for this one hahaha
@@HREIRL defo. Roll on the competition 😂
Once again full of interesting information and useful tips explained with intelligence and humor. Great stuff and thank you. (whoever is giving the thumbs down for these videos beware.............I am on to you).
Hi Kevin, hope your keeping well thanks for watching, Watch out Thumbs downer uncle Kevin is coming for you 😁
So many great little tips in this. I hope to build my own engine eventually so this particular series will be getting archived. Thank you.
Great to hear! If you run into trouble don't be afraid to ask we are here to help 👍
Flipping Tight if you ask me, lol. Thanks for another good video
Like that one Patrick 👍😂
Decent vids dude, a couple of things-why only a single timing chain? , setting valve clearance - I use mirror image from centre as much easier, and I didn't see the oil ring on the gearbox on the pick up? 😁👍
We use a very special simplex timing chain with alloy cam gear and steel crank sprocket and an IWIS chain. It is lighter than the duplex kit and puts much less stress on the valve train. Yes perfectly good method of setting the Clarence with 1/3/4/2 there is a couple of ways :) if you pause the video at 9.50s you will see the black o-ring on the oil pick up but you are right I didn’t mention it 👍 thanks for watching appreciate the comments 😁
@@HREIRL OK, thanks for explanation, I look forward to the rocker set up video as I have the MED rollers too, keep up the good work and vids dude 🚗👍
Absolutely brilliant as always. I have loved all the engine build tips. Many thanks and am looking forward to seeing the next instalment.
Thanks Peter I’m so glad you enjoyed the video thanks so much for the lovely comments
Some really interesting tips, thanks. 👍
Thanks Keith glad you enjoyed
EXCELLENT
interesting as ever Paul, no flywheel bolt lock washer? I've never torqued up the rocker adjusters before, didnt know there was a setting!, apart from 'tight'. We laughed at the old rule of 9, we have the rule of 8 and 10!
Hay Rich, I stoped using those about 5 years ago when one split (brand new) and let the torque off the bolt on me, resulting in the flywheel coming a drift and destroying the nose of the crank. Ya have always torqued the rockers after one came loose on the Dyno on me and made a right mess. You will have to explain the rule of 8 to me hahaha 🤣
@@HREIRL We have 8 port heads so with the valves being in a different order they need a different sequence!
@@MiniPerformance haha that makes a lot more sense now 🤣🤣
Nice advice 😎 been moons since I played with a Mini 😢
Thanks buddy glad you enjoyed
Great again👍🏻👊🏻
This is a proper job, very nicely done there
What's the torque wrench you use "Norbar? Did you say?"
That’s the one Andy, don’t tell anyone but the Skye’s-Pickavant brand is also made by Norbar at a slightly more affordable price
Awesome☺
F.T.setting on my torque wrench........quality mate...
The FT setting has to be brought out every now and then
Great detail as always. Is the idler gear (“drop gear”) bearing failure a thing of the past now, with modern materials? I remember back in the day the needle bearing would fail and chew it’s way through the clutch housing - spelled death for many many ADO16 cars!
Its still a thing but these high quality straight cut drop gears and some careful assembly and measuring insure they last the life time of the motor. thanks for tuning in 👍
I’ve just been introduced to your videos and what a treat they are. Thank you for sharing so many tips and techniques. Do you use ARP lube on the head studs and the extra bolts? Also, some people advise lower torque on 10 and 11 due to the reduced deck thickness at the ends. What do you think?
Hi Andy and a warm welcome to the channel great to have you with us, Yes ARP lube on any ARP bolts I use and on the others I use molybdenum disulphate grease on the others. I use a Special 10.9 Cap Head for the 10th and 11th stud and tap the block M10.1.25 so am able to torque it to the standard head stud torque
Great video Paul. Quick question I was always told to dab a bit of oil on the flywheel housing seal and the timing chain cover seal to stop any nasty squeaking on start up just wanted to know your thoughts on that
Hi Martian, Makes perfect sense to me tbh. I soaked all my new seals is silicone seal softer which i didn't show as this was just going back together.
No mention of the oil feed 'O' ring on the box? Couldn't see one on the box?
Slipped my mind to mention it Gavin senior moment haha, but tis there you can just make it out at 9.50 if you pause the video. Thanks for for watching out and thanks for commenting 👍
👍
👍
FT is that Fanny Tight 🤣
Probably no PC for today’s world
Hahha got a laugh out of that this morning 😂
Hi fella new to channel watch most ov ur vids, how was the gearbox baffle made, can't find a mention of it in any vids or have I missed one, keep up the great vids, graham
How much BHP do get over a standard built engine after all the set up you do on the race engine Paul.
Hi Jer this one in making north of 120HP so fairly decent improvement
Hi! what kind of torche tool are you using? Regards!
The brand I use is called Norbar, I have them for many years and ultra reliable thanks for watching 👍
Would you recommend roller rockers over standard rocker assembly for a 1293 S motor?
It all depends on the Camshaft Ian, If the cam is a modern hardened verity and you have a cylinder head setup for higher lift then I would be inclined to see them as an advantage but if the engine is standard for all other intensive purposes I would be inclined to just use the standard pressed steel rockers welded for strength
@@HREIRL thanks Paul. Running a MG Metro cam and the head has had a light skim as it had some pitting and surface rust when I bought the unit.
@@CooperSTraveller In that case buddy I would be inclined to stick with the standard setup, with that said the Metro cam is a decent cam and can handle roller rockers as long and new correct profile followers where fitted 👍
@@HREIRL great thanks Paul. I was assuming with it being a Mervyn Johnston built engine it would be spot on anyway.
@@CooperSTraveller Mervyn builds a great engine :)