Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5 Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions ruclips.net/video/Gm0-z971tgY/видео.html) Join this channel to get access to perks: ruclips.net/channel/UC_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjAjoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer 3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you) This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Please read this let me know what you think mate! Your matrix test prints ive been getting EXACTLY the same issues i kinda knownwhat is going on here its the resin! Anycubic dont like other resin as much as their own im testing elgoos new like ABS 2.0 resin in my mono 2, Thinking it's definitely Not compression as used it all the time it had to be something else? The Resin itself! And yes the exposure had to be set to near doube than what i would originally print at withy anycubic like abs! Now ive done this amd lowred my bottom layer to 4 instead of the 5 or 6 it was standard with ive got it printing perfectly! So try this if not got it dialed in yet mate! If it was brand new out the box and done this i would have come to same conclusion compression! But its not! Try anycubics resin in the printer and try the test again itll probably be perfect or near perfect than that phrozen resin used! You could always try what Dennic wang done and thickened up the scale in the slicer only upwards to pull the detail out slightly swch off the uniform scaling its better than using a raft! His models are cults if need thickened version of matrix but if you follow what i said at the start about me going through this with elgoos new 2.0 it was driving me crazy it really was, then finally got it perfect by changing them 2 settings! I would try it with anycubic resin first reset settings to default for that resin bet its good! So hope this helps you out
I was pretty sure that after your replies for the shorts comment, and after you've already said it's 99.9% the film, that you'll buy a new film, put it instead of this ACF and use frozen 8k like in your other videos and would include this testing in this video that took really long time to come up. Not to be rude, I thank you for your reviews and information, but this has stole 26 minutes from my life, you've added nothing new, and even subtracted the most (and only) important testing to a next video. When you said "If you've already preordered it please stop watching now" - this was acualy wrong because if the film replacement provides better details than the 8k midrange ones (with slow speed, 0.2mu hight, frozen 8k resin) for miniatures - then there is no reason for anyone to cancel it, or to choose the m5 instead, and we can enjoy both worlds.
Well they are basically the same printer minus the auto leveling that is cool but whatever, leveling takes 3 minutes and you basically never have to do it again. That being said I think its right that the ACF film is the problem and you can simply replace that with normal FEP. Seems like I will be doing the same for my mars 4 ultra when it arrives.
@@magikarp2063 yeah looking at all of this I think they should had just put the acf and a fep into the Package and not squishing the „cool“ acf shit in our face 😂
I just don't see auto leveling as a huge step forward for resin printers, at least not like it is on FDM printers. This first gen of 12k 10" printers looks like a hard pass. I appreciate the innovation but I'll stick with my mini 8k for now as I don't need the extra build plate area
Thank you for the thorough review! This will be my first resin printer. I hope your theory ends up being true. My pre-order is in, but I care about quality more than speed, but went with the M5s because of the auto leveling. Hopefully, better quality will be as easy as changing out the vat and resin. Honestly, it would be nice to have a high-speed and standard-speed option. Thanks again!
I pre-ordered this as my first resin printer. I want to print DnD minis. I would be happy to print slower, with old FEP for better quality. I have been waiting for your thoughts and now I do not know what to do.... I assume I can cancel my order, but if you can show some quality prints with a normal FEP - I guess I would not cancel....
There is a guy here "Smathalgoth" in the comments, who said he has bought the same matte ACF film the M5s uses, and he does not have a quality loss in his prints. If he's right, the issue is not something we can solve by ourselves. By the way, i just canceled my preorder.
Thank you for going so deep into the issues with this printer. I was so close to buying it, but I think I need to let this gen cook a bit and buy next gen.
I pre-ordered the m5s for ease of use and the speed so I’m not that concerned. However.. if it turns out that ordering a second vat and putting a clearer film in it gives me better prints when I do need it.. that would be a major bonus! Looking forward to your test!
"UV is not light, it's energy" - never heard something more stupid then the Creality technicians said. Every light is an energy. UV used in resin printers is just a little shorter wavelength than visible light and it can be scattered exactly the same way as a visible light. It is possible, that some material is perfectly transparent for some wavelengths, but in my opinion it's more likely that infrared (longer wavelength) will go through without scattering in this case than ultraviolet. So I totally agree, that the film might be an issue.
Maybe I can enjoy both worlds and not cancel the preorder? My convo with Anycubic: Me: hi, I've seen some reviews showing worst details for m5s 12k then older 8k and they said anat Anycubic said its less detailed and more speedy, and if you wand actually good details you should buy the M5... It is actually annoying, but they also said that maybe if I change the ACF film to a regular film I'll get all the details like using the M5. can you check it for me please? Anycubic representative: Hi Let me check with our team Hi The ACF film itself has a frosted surface, which can cause some loss in precision. However, in practical printing processes, if the laver thickness is 0.05mm, the difference in precision between the ACF film and the NEP film will not be significant. If you switch from ACF to NFEP film, under the same layer thickness conditions, the printing quality will be slightly better with NFEP, consistent with traditional machines. However, using NFEP film will significantly reduce the printing speed. Hello It's ok to achieve the same effect if you use NFEP. However, please note that you cannot the high speed mode
Thanks for the video, Ross. I’m disappointed as well. Bought this for 12k detail not fast printing. Looks like I will be going the Athena route. Also hope all is well with the wife. ❤
A material can be "translucent" or "transparent" at different energy levels and/or wavelengths. Energy at a certain wave band lengths is also known as "light". The difference between white light and UV light may make that translucent ACF sheet more transparent. Also, the pixels on the M5s are rectangular, so what would happen to your test plates if you rotated them right 45 and 90 degrees?
Moreover, material can be similar to ulexite or selenite and maintain a 1:1 fiber-optic like parallel projection through the material. I don't know the properties of this sheet, but if the engineers are saying the perceived translucency isn't the cause of this issue, I'm inclined to believe them.
Your video is incredible, I also saw Vogman, and apparently everything can point to the ACF sheet, it would be interesting if you could locate a PFA sheet for that tray and change it to test if those strange details are actually maintained in the final piece. Thanks for sharing
After some of the initial hype over these printers was going around, I actually sourced a sheet of this ACF film to experiment with on a Mono 4k. I have noticed zero difference in detail for the same exposure settings vs an NFEP sheet, and was able to get away with much higher lift speeds along with finer support tips than would reliably work for me previously. So I don't think the ACF film is to blame here. My guess would be this "12k" screen Anycubic and Elegoo have sourced is just crap, the rectangular pixels just being the tip of the iceberg of compromises.
@@FauxHammer Mostly Siraya Tech Fast, but also some Ameralabs TGM-7. The latter of which had the biggest improvements for list speed and support settings.
@@Smathalgoth can you try the same test Fauxhammer used in the video and share the results? I would love to know if you are able to get all the small details that the M5s misses
I bought this printer wanting auto leveling, that juicy build volume and I print at .02mm Layer height.speed is not what I want. I’m listening to the video but would you suggest I send it back? I have a Saturn 2 but I want as much detail as possible. The leveling has been an issue for me because some prints seem to affect it. Should I return and get a dlp instead or just wait. Or keep and hope for firmware or better film? It’s literally coming tomorrow and I’m unsure I should keep it while I have a saturn2
You go back and forth on this. Based on what they provide you, and what they're selling, a "easy to use" printer. The quality isn't there, so it's not worth buying. You shouldn't need to contact support to get it to print more detail, it should work out of the box.
Just got an answer for Anycubic: About the effect of using ACF: The ACF film has a thickness of 0.3mm and a matte surface on the bottom, which differs from the 0.15mm smooth FEP release film. Due to the light scattering phenomenon within the resin vat, the ACF film may slightly affect the surface details of the printed model. Specifically, it could result in a decrease in the model's matte finish and the appearance of minor fine lines. However, in practical printing scenarios using non-high-speed resin with a layer thickness of 0.05mm, 16x anti-aliasing, grayscale 0, and blur 3 settings, the print quality is comparable to that of the M5. Moreover, the light scattering effect of the ACF film can actually improve the anti-aliasing performance compared to FEP.
So we are really getting there! That now admitted light scattering of the ACF may indeed "improve" anti-aliasing, which is in fact blurring, if you are fast printing with the 0.1mm layers or normal printing at 16x anti-aliasing with 3 blur settings but your high definition models will always suffer. So a M5 or M5s with nFEP will always outperform as regards accuracy of printing compared to using ACF. I commend Anycubic for honesty here but I strongly suggest they ship with two resin vats one with ACF for speed another with nFEP for accuracy... before more customers jump boat.
@@brianhickling1867 I told them the exact same thing. Though i suggested a fep sheetonly rather than a whole vVAt to keep costs down. This is still one of the best Vats of all the brands
With all the other data points these symptoms can only really be image convolution, either through diffusion in the film, distance from the screen or lack of collimation in the throw (depending on the system), unless the display itself is jank which I doubt. There aren't that may variables. It can't be about exposure, it's about acuity on the fluid boundary plane. Basically blurriness due to diffusion, contact offset or display problems. Their engineers saying UV is energy not light is troubling nonsense.
Hi Ross, I pre-ordered the M5s and was straight away concerned about the ACF due to being translucent. In my experience, the more distance you have between the LCD crystals and the resin in the vat (glass, screen protector, air gap, ...), the more light bleed you get and with the ACF diffusing the light "energy" on top of that you might end up in a loss of sharpness. I never put a screen protector for this reason and luckily never had a pierced film issue. I have yet to test the super thin nFEP/FEP for improving sharpness. I'm looking forward to see if a few changes would improve the sharpness from my mini 8k.
I am also in the same pre-order boat as you. This idea of UV being "energy", not light, and is not being affected by ACF opaque diffusion of the light passing through the film is complete nonsense. UV is ordinary every day light that has unique properties that we take advantage of in our resin printers. PROOF: UV was discovered by using a prism that divided all incoming light.
The prints are sharper on the Saturn 3 than on the M5. But I have not used the Ultra. The Ultra uses ACF film which also slightly blurrs the image. My supposition is that it won't do it as much as the M5 will, but it will do a bit.
@@FauxHammer I ended realizing that the saturn 3 was just way to big for how I would use this. I am going to print infantry size minis 95% of the time. So I ended deciding between the mars 4 ultra and the mars 3. Once I saw Uncle Jesse had to use a digital microscope to see any actual differences between 4k and 8k, I just didnt see the point of spending 2x the money. The wireless is nice but I dont mind walking an USB to my printer once in a while since I wont be printing like a madman
UV light is light. Take it from this physicist. It is just as easily diffracted, refracted, and reflected as visible light. (All light is, of course, also energy.) The technicians are spouting nonsense.
@FauxHammer Is that ACF on the M5S transparent when you put it onto a flat surface? For example, if you put it on a paper with some text on it, does it still look "cloudy"? Just for reference, the Aorita ACF is perfectly transparent when it's on a flat surface. Also, ACF (which is almost certainly "Amorphous Cellulose Film", bonded to a silicone substrate) is ~6% less transmissive of UV than FEP or PFA. Good, thorough, informative review, thanks for all that effort, it's appreciated!
I have this M5S printer and it doesn't have Leveling Free, I normally have a tray with screws - I honestly don't recommend this printer, it's the worst bottom ever released by ANYCUBIC! The prints of small figures are worse than on my MONO X :(
Some notes on automatic leveling and AFC: 1. Force detection for automatic bed leveling: There is a printed circuit board (electronic sensor board connected to the main board in the lower housing) in the head under the large round screw to which the print platform is attached. Nothing mechanical under the tray. In fact, that would be trivial, not smart, and prone to error. When the platform is pressed down, the flexible part (AFC) deforms so that the screen part adheres firmly to the pressure platform. At the same time, the machine detects the pressure between the pressure platform and the screen component (AFC) and uses a preset value to determine whether leveling is complete. Once the preset value is reached, printing can begin. Therefore, do not replace the AFC film with another film. Pressure scanning would then no longer be possible. 2. AFC ( yes translucent ): I recommend to use the supplied original R.E.R.F.stl file ( R_E_R_F" (Resin Exposure Range Finder) ) for each resin type for this printer. 8 different exposure models are printed in time steps of 0.25s (1.5s-3.25s) and are really intelligently modeled. You can download it from Support / Model Download. Each model has a number that refers to the exposure time and a very detailed explanation is provided. In general, speed vs. resolution: the application/resin determines the choice and requirements. There is no general golden rule. You need to match the 12K to your needs and you will get great results. Have fun printing - Herri in China. PS: the current Wash bucket (Wash & Cure Pro) is not large enough for the 10.1in platform. Models need to be removed to be washed and cured. That is really a pity in the moment. There is a larger bucket in development, but no availability time is scheduled yet.
Hi, di you work in the industry? According to what you say p, one can not replace the film on the M5S. It’s interesting and I wonder if you have tested it.
@@FauxHammer Hello, I'm sorry, I don't know your name. Direct sources: Anycubic + Aorita. And of course my general engineering knowledge. I built 3D printers and CNC machines myself years ago, just out of necessity and interest. But then I gave that up when the local offers got better and better. In the meantime, I have many very good partners here in China. Basically, I can realize anything I want. My only wish: there is a large audience following you and others reviewing the latest equipment, but when I read many comments from irritated and disappointed followers, I thought it would be better to provide some clarity to restore confidence in the latest technology. And to clarify: I am not affiliated with anyone, just passionate about the creation and methods of doing so. The recent products from Bambu Lab and other great developers show what is possible when skill and conviction are used to get very good tools into the hands of many people at incredibly low prices. I am grateful for that. Herri
I will be interested to see if it is the film dropping quality, it could result in people buying a second vat with PFA so they have a "fast vat" and a "detailed vat". Great review as always!
You know ive got an idea. Im buying an extra vat and putting normal FEP on it so i can have a "true"(ish) 12k printer for my detailed prints and a faster printer. Best of both worlds!
Thanks for the video - your candid reviews are very valuable. This thing sounds ...like dud. I mean - being faster with .1 - well, any of my printers will be faster printing 2x or 5x thicker layers.... one note - THANK YOU - for showing trying to remove that resin - it looks incredibly brittle. Finally "energy not light" - um....that is one of the most silly things I have ever heard - especially considering the resin cures at a certain frequency of LIGHT (that energy is in photons). This printer sounds like it may indeed have some useful new features (error detection sounds amazing....if we know how it actually works) but overall - this sounds like a total hard pass on this printer.
Don’t buy this printer: I bought 2x M5s 2x wks ago as a package with wash n cure plus. Completely inappropriate that the build plate doesn’t fit the wash and cure plus. Regardless, nothing sticks to the build plates, the autolevelling doesn’t work. I managed to level the bed by homing with it loose and then tightening. Alas, still not sticking to bed - I’ve been through every forum and anycubic support, base layers tried upto 2mins exposure, with a resin that sticks to everything else with ease… Am now sending the whole package back for refund, wish me luck!
lol "UV is energy not light"..... wooooow.... I hope to god you were just talking to some marketing or sales person when they said that, and not like, someone who is supposed to be knowledgeable about the product, lol. wow... just.... wow... And in case anyone doesn't know... the definition of "UV" is specifically shorthand for "Ultraviolet light", specifically light within 100 to 400nm wavelength. Further, UV radiation is affected by scattering, just like visible light. just... wow.
@@FauxHammer lol, amazing I wonder if they actually believe that, or if it's just outright dishonesty, thinking that their customers are all too stupid to catch it, lol.
Gutted, was hoping this would be a good first step into resin printing. Just cancelled my pre-order, back to the drawing board i guess, as probs need to wait 6-12 months for the newer speed and quality features to mature enough. Ideally I was looking for something that could do quick prototypes and still do high quality final prints, the auto leveling was a bonus too. ☹ As ever @FauxHammer, great and real reviews. I really appreciate the honest approach inc. the shorts . Keep up the great work.
@@FauxHammer Yeah, I saw at the end of the vid you said about swapping the film out, but hadn't yet tested it as wanted to get the vat from the M5. I actually pre-ordered it based on Vogs video, as it was "ok" and the main issues he seemed to talk about was the lack of quality jump from 12k to 8k (even a slight step down due to the rectangular pixels) without really having issues with the film. I had orignally looked at getting the 8KS, but after that I thought the marginal quality loss for the ability to prototype would be worth it. But needing to buy a new film for a new printer and dial that in (as i'm a complete newbie to resin) would mean i am more likely to get worse results thatn either of you two pillars of printing 😊
@@Hartwig870 how is it a shitty practice? The printer is marketed for its speed. literally the 5"S". the film is designed for speed. that comes with trade offs
Any moron who claims that UV is "energy" and not "light" is mental. To be clear, UV radiation is high-energy wavelengths of light (The blue-er the light, the more energy if my physics memory serves me correct). All light has wave-like and particle-like features and functions. All wavelengths of light react the same way from gamma to x-ray to visible to IR and beyond. That being said, some wavelengths can penetrate through substrates better (or worse) than visible light. This is most evident with the Coke experiment, whereby, Coca Cola is opaque and brown-ish to our eyes, but completely (or at least largely) transparent to IR (infrared) light. I have never actually used a resin 3D printer, and this will be my first, so I'll be learning along the way. I see, however, three most probable issues going on here: 1. Squishing, whereby the auto-leveling is too tight, and every time a layer lowers back, it jams against the film and flattens more than it should. 2. ACF dispersion, whereby the ACF is unwittingly dispersing and diffracting/refracting UV radiation into a (slightly) different direction which reduces clarity and, therefore, effective resolution. 3. The last probable phenomenon going on is whereby the Light is not perfectly focal. That is to say that the Fresnel lenses should be adjusted up or down very slightly to match the focal distance of the backlights. This is an issue that I'm very familiar with in laser cutting/engraving, and could certainly be causing lower quality prints. Using washers or shims under the vat *might* be able to effect this and focus the light better (assuming this is the issue, and the focal plane sits in front of the glass plate). However, if this is the problem, and the focal plane lie behind the glass, it would require disassembly of the machine and manual adjustment of the main Fresnel lense (or the individual collimator lenses). I *highly* doubt that the M5 has significant quality differences from the M5s (at least not intrinsically). I'd reckon that the manual bed leveling might result in better light focus. The mechanics of the M5s are going to be almost, if not entirely, identical to the M5.
I was on the fence about buying an M5s or Saturn 3 (the regular one, not the ultra).. decided to go with Saturn 3.. I like the idea of auto leveling but I think Anycubic underutilized the force detection technology.. and I don't want to compromise quality for speed.. especially seeing what kind of issues you're having because of the new fep film.. and cheers on the best M5s review on YT!
I got one of these and first time using today. I wish they had move video on the clean up. I made a mistake on my first clean up. After emptying the vat, it had bits stick to the vat, so as carefully as I did try to remove by scraping, bad mistake. I should have run the vat clean and remove this way with one go. Hopeful not creating problem, but I can see visual lines now. I went to order another vat to have anyway, but you cannot as yet in New Zealand. Putting on the screen protector - oh my. Like you said, it has air gaps on the bevel of the screen. But for me, I have some air bubbles that I am sure is creating problem when I try to print flat services like a cube box that is required for the job I paid to buy this printer. To hold PCB boards. Time for my second print, a box with a lid, well this did not turn out well at all. The flat top of the lid was not flat, and the resin did not set right. I'm going to remove the screen protector and try again another day. Other screen protecters are on order and to be honest, like a cell phone, I just never use them. Only two prints so I will keep playing and learning. As a beta release I got 6 lots of 1KG of fast resin. I wish they had ship others to play with. Look forward to your review on the non- s version. I hope I have not made a mistake but it was not a large amount of money anyway.
Try anycubics UV tough flexible and anycubic Like ABS there perfect has to be said! Very strong amazing details in prints im comparing it to elgoos Like ABS 2.0 at the moment and its miles better than the new 2.0 from elgoo! The 2.0 ,needs strained aswell before use there s loads crus in it like grit and on 4th bottle to see if just a bad batch but there all the same so beware if using the new elgoo 2.0 like abs it might punctured more than your FEP! Strain it in filter first you'll be amazed what the mesh catches! And the exposure time also needs to be set way up to 5s on elgoo printers and 3.5 on anycubics! There is a video someone's done on here about the 2.0 being way different to the original stuff and won't print unless change all your pronter settings sonsave record the ones your normally using you will be swapping about a good bit with this resin and its alot thicker than anycubics Like abs! So thats why im thinking the like abs from anycubic will work well at this fast printing because ofnhow thin it is! It printing beautifully on mono 2 it's changed days from old anycubic resins what anycubic are makong these days!.i just cannot fault anycubic at the moment
0:09 seconds.... And I feel the same fucking pain... I beat everything in that game.... Because my ex told me to take my time and see everything before the final boss..... I just feel like I went through vietnam again
And this is why i am holding out on this 5s and the elgoo 12k as both use exactly the same chiu LEDs with rectangular streched pixels amd leaves like scrach crosshatch lines in your prints!. I bought the mono 4k as a first printer its excellent but way to small so boght the the mono 2 on promotional deal cheap and with free wash and cure for well under what i paid for the 4k! Only its has the correct screen size pixels for a true 4k as why they call it now a 4k plus and will print as good as any 8k printer out there and their not wrong! Im absolutely blown away with the mono 2 if only it had a 10in build plate i think it would be the perfect printer! Big statement but stand by that 100% and hope anycubic see this and make a 10in version with nothing else changed! Its a printer that doesn't need nothing but scaled up!
Did you remember how to change a FEP film already? I don’t see why this isn’t tested yet.. changing the new film with clear FEP should be a small task..
Anycubic have there bottom layers standard set to 30 reduce it to 20 or 20 this is what i have done personally as with the new type etched build plate it just sticks like god knows what and will not fall off! I've tried lol 20 is what mine is at but you can lower it bit by bit to suit you, it is still soild but once get your blade under each of the 4 corners and the print will break loose youll hear that satisfying break free and the whole print will just come loose from the middle! don't try and go right under from one side as soon as dried it sticks more when IPA dries off, you'll damage print and cut into plate! Thank me later it's changed the way i remove prints for good! Never broke a print this way yet! Touch wood lol
Yeah, that's a no to me. Buffing up speed and print times for marketing, by forcing people to use FDM level layer heights to achieve that, is a cheat of the highest degree. I can can forgo inflated marketing claims, until they are pure lies. I can understand special resin, but with that alone, this will not be as quick then.
Edit: sounds like a misunderstanding on my part, check the comment chain for further info. Gotta give a differing opinion here. I don't think it's necessarily fair to say a printer has layer lines and low quality while only printing at 0.1mm layer height. Any printer will have visible lines at that point. The release film and exposure is definitely worth further testing and investigation, especially using other resin. More testing is needed for sure, I'm curious to see if you do any other tests in time for me to decide whether I want to cancel my pre order!
I don’t understand how that’s unfair. Any print with 0.1mm layers will have layer lines and poor quality when compared to the 0.05mm layers that people typically use. It’s got nothing to do with the printer. As you say, any printer will ab e visible lines at that point. Again, I don’t get what you are saying this point is unfair. But then also validate the same point
@Fauxhammer Maybe I worded my initial comment poorly. My intention was to differentiate the criticism of the printer from the criticism of the print settings. As we both agree, any printer using 0.1mm layer height will suffer from quality issues, it's got nothing to do with the specific printer. My impression from the video was that you were attributing this low quality to the printer itself, rather than the settings, which is what I took issue with. From your reply to my comment, it sounds like that was a misunderstanding on my part and probably wasn't your intention. Either way, it sounds like we're both on the same page! Love your content, keep it up bro.
just bought one but I already owned a mars 4 only problem I had was leveling it because it could get a single successful print after I had a the benchy print for some reason
Its energy not light has to be one of the dumbest things I've heard from these companies. Light has energy (e=hf). Uv has higher frequencies than visible so higher energy which means its transmission and diffraction properties going through a material will be different to that of visible light bit just saying its not light is utter bollocks.
Hi there Faux...I have worked for over 20 years in tech and have tried to collaborate with Elegoo to help them better their products but every time I tried to assist them they were un denial that the 3d printers had some type of defect that could of been made better for the same of the customer so yeah I know what your talking about in this video...plus more...
Anybody know why this printer is estimated for an August delivery date right now, but can be bought on Amazon and delivered in like a week? Is it a scalper or what?
Great job, but Im confused Did you run the test with regular resin {maybe 8k} and using the not speed setting? or was everything done with the speed settings and the fast resin which we know sacrifices detail (big time)
Hello Faux Hammer. Im currently using a Photon Mono X printer, and was looking at this one in particular. I dont care about speed prints really, i dont mind a print takes 6 hours, as long as i get nice results. What are your current favorite printer in the 500 ish price range for miniatures?
Thanks for the great review, can't wait to see what it would look like with normal PFA (nFEP) sheet, if that is the real culprit....honestly I'm assuming it's the sprint system on the screen, maybe it's designed so that it pushes further than normal each layer, and that's how it's detecting failures or things that are stuck... This would mean that the force sensors on the printer are not very sensitive, and it requires slightly more force than normal to get the layers in One way to test that would be to check for Z height accuracy, compared to XY, if my hypothesis is correct, you're Z accuracy would be lower than normal, when using the same resin compared to other printers I'm on the fence of cancelling my order, I ordered a few of this printer because of the amazing price and features, but it seems all too good to be true
@BrickBazooka I don't want to base my whole decision on 1 review, and I'll try some troubleshooting of my own in one of the machines. If it doesn't work, I'll return the rest.. I have a ton of different types of sheets, so I'll test that out first with different resins, but if it has to do with the plate leveling system there won't be anything to do about that. I also want to test the Z and XY accuracy, I want to know if the tension from the springs affects the Z accuracy and if the rectangular pixels affect the XY accuracy
Just a note about semantics: the ACF is *translucent*, not *opaque*. The latter term means "blocks light completely", and is the binary opposite of *transparent*, which means "blocks no light at all". Everything between those two binary end points is, well, translucent!
I'd wish I could have seen this video before. I orderer it and I super regret. Low quality prints are meh, but the main issue is perma print fails, no matter what solution I try, it just never work. Either the auto leveling, the shitty quality of the Anycubic resin or idk but i get 24/7 perma failures. I regret so much buying this 3d printer
For some reason my comment was deleted, not sure if something got triggered in the youtube algorithm, but I'll try again just in case. Thank you for the much deeper dive on the M5s! It really highlighted the small detail and normal resin usage that seemed to be mostly skipped on other reviews. While I did get in on the early bird pricing, I'm still on the fence about if I should just cancel the order. The first and foremost reason is how they seem to be treating their pre-order customers. The M5 and M5s are both available and are shipping out on amazon, but the pre-orders are not being fulfilled yet.
oof, that's at least a better reason to cancel than - i watched your video and now think this printer is crap - because i hope I showed, it isn't - it's a really, really good printer. I'm not sure who handles the Amazon shipping weather that's Anycubic or a third part supplier, that could be the answer.
@@FauxHammer I reached out to Anycubic support and they said: "I am sorry that anycubic official website and anycubic Amazon belong to different operation departments. The inventory management of the two is different." Ok, but it doesn't really address the fact that the first shipments from manufacturing are obviously not going to the pre-orders.
@@Skulltap Welcome to how Chiinese companies do customer service. we wouldn;t tell you any different in the UK, but we would also avoid allowing shipments to go that way and have better control of distribution. It's probably a cultural difference, hI can only presume it;s hard to operate cleanly overseas.
@@FauxHammer If it was just local sales that were opened first then I could rationalize it enough. Not be particularly happy, but at least rationalize it. I have seen the same thing with kickstarters as well. The logistics cost on the pre-orders being from all over the world can't be cheap or easy for them, but sending it to the amazon warehouses first is a dirty move. At the end of the day, its really about the money and I understand it. I don't have to like it, but its a reality. If the cost was closer to that early bird pricing I'd be real tempted to cancel and purchase through amazon just because of the ease with amazon returns here in the states.
I strongly suspect that part of the overexposure issues are from too much UV power. I have seen similar issues in other printers. Is the UV backlight adjustable in the slicer? If so, try setting it to 50% and do your RERF again. I am willing to bet that it increases print quality considerably at the cost of slightly higher exposure times.
you can't lower the exposure on this in the slicer i had. But in my experience on numerous other printers, lowering exposure and having the light on longer exacerbates this issue rather than helps resolve it. all this ever does is result in the resin potentially being a bit softer at the end of the print. Fast curing = more brittle prints.
@@FauxHammer Oh well, that's a bummer. In Lychee and Chitubox you can lower the UV PWM and it greatly improves print quality. I know other Anycubic printers were recommended to run at 60% UV power for many resins. I think this printer was designed to print fast, not to print clean so they put a super bright LED on it. The original Epax E10 had the same problem, UV too bright for standard resins so there was a ton of bloom.
@@TheRoamingbison Yep! They use a 480:1 contrast panel compared to the 300:1 one on their 8K printers so a 60% output increase. I think that sloppy fast resin needs the power!
I gave up on Anycubic when the M3 Max came out and it took nearly a year to get to working. Anycubic customer service was horrible. I'm still on the fence about any of these 12K printers because so far I haven't seen any real visible difference in the 8K versus the 4k or 6k.
The thing about uv being energy and not light, and vice versa, is nonsensical. Uv light, yes light, is one of many forms of radiant energy. The energy transfer in the light absorption is what causes stuff like radiation burns from uv exposure, and this resin to cure. In other words, the creality tech saying “Nono it’s energy” needs to take a very basic physics class. Loving your vids btw!
Hola buenas. He comprado la m5s y esta de camino a mi casa. He visto este video y no me ha dado tiempo a cancelar el pedido para elegir otro modelo diferente. Si cambio la resina y algún que otro ajuste puedo conseguir un nivel de detalle notablemente mas alto ? Gracias y un saludo
I havent bought a resin 3d printer yet but I find interesting that you are fine with .1mm layer hight I mean it sure is fast but I thought that the the resin guys would be looking at printing faster but with .5mm layer height being the standard. I come from filament 3d printing looking to make more detailed figures (I just love paiting them) but I have thought that the newer resin 3d printers would be aiming for thinner layers printed faster.
I have this printer and I have this issue where prints either come out warped, stick to the rep or don’t print at all does anyone know how to resolve this issue?
I have a friend with a double doctorate in physics. If I were to tell him that "UV is energy, not light," I couldn't even begin to predict what his reaction would be. The truth is that everything from ELF (Extremely Low Frequency radio waves used by submarines for communication) through to to visible light, UV, X-rays, and gamma rays (the OG killer of the EMR spectrum) are all forms of electromagnetic radiation (EMR). Generally speaking, higher frequencies of EMR can penetrate materials more readily than lower frequencies, though this interaction varies significantly based on the specific wavelength and material in question. On the other hand, lower-frequency EMR (right down to ELF) is very easily blocked but tends to diffract around many obstacles due to its long wavelength. Just make sure your ELF receiver is not setup so its directly occluded by a giant rock. (nerd trap sprung?)
any news on the m5s pro. just had a update for their workshop and lists it complete with settings resolution x 13312 y5120. print size x 223.642 y 126.480 z 200.000. pixel size x 16.800 y pixel 24.800 exposure settings slightly different and by the looks it has a filter. i am enjoying my m5s got both vats but still using the frosted one.
Hopefully, this is merely a software and film replacement issue, similar to past instances when 3D printer companies faced backlash over plastic versus metal tubes. They rectified the situation by switching them out, resulting in satisfied customers. The same needs to be done here. Extensive testing should always take precedence over rushing to kickstart. Companies often find the latter too tempting, but it's not always the best route. And no Thank You for this content!
....... "UV is energy, not light." ... Light is energy, too. It could just be that they're -stupid- poor communicators, and what they meant is that the film is completely transparent to UV light, even though it's not to visible spectrum light.
screen size is generally done by measuring from a bottom corner of a screen to an opposite top corner, diagonally across the screen. they do this all the time with computer monitors as well.
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5 Get any 3D printer working quickly & easily with the our beginner guide ruclips.net/video/Gm0-z971tgY/видео.html) 3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/ Artis Opus FauxHammer Essentials Set: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-mixed-brush-set-5-brush-deluxe FauxHammer Patreon - www.patreon.com/fauxhammerblog FauxHammer Facebook Group - facebook.com/groups/PaintHub FauxHammer 3D Printing Group - facebook.com/groups/3dprintedminiatures FauxHammer Discord - discord.gg/dPexM9SeN4 Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/best-airbrushes-for-miniatures-wargames-models/ Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/best-beginner-airbrush-for-miniatures/ Affiliate Links to support us. Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures-by-manufacturer/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/warhammer-40000-indomitus-english-?d=10279 Wayland Games - affiliates.waylandgames.co.uk/781-1-3-4.html Forbidden Planet: forbiddenplanet.com/catalog/?q=Warhammer%20Imperium&sort=title&page=1&affid=FauxHammer& Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Warhammer&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Website: www.fauxhammer.com/ Facebook: facebook.com/pg/FauxHammerBlog/ Twitter: twitter.com/FauxHammerBlog Instagram: instagram.com/fauxhammerblog/ Pinterest: www.pinterest.co.uk/fauxhammer/ Video Editing by VidPros: app.vidpros.io/r/J50Z26 00:00 - Intro
I am still struggling with the WLAN that is not working after Power On. I do completely remove power to the printer, when not in use. After that it doesn’t reconnect to my WLAN, which is a pain in the …. using the USB File „approach“ it is telling my ‚File format not corect‘ - but I followed the instructions in the app. Configuration via app works after some try and error but is forgotten after power off… I dunno… how to solve this…
I put my printer in the garage because of the smell. And having no direct access the App would be nice, if the printer did not loose the WLAN settings… my phone does connect there effortlessly (being in the garage)
“Light vs energy” is an insulting non-explanation. It is fair, however, that a “blurry film” may not mean lower resolution. For one, you’re only seeing how it diffuses visible light, UV could be passing perfectly transparently. The second issue is focal length. You’re looking from a dozen cm away to something that is a dozen cm behind the film, and that’s not what is happening during a print. Submerged in a liquid resin on one side, with a projection focused on the release film, it may be almost completely transparent. You can even see how much more clear it appears before you peel off the protective layer, and liquid resin would be having a similar effect. All that said, I just unboxed mine, and I want to throttle whoever thought that screen protector was a good idea. A replaceable glass screen next time please.
Hi, Here's an idea. Y not make a short video how to do a first print for newbies like myself? A part file into the PhotoWorkShop ... settings for maximum quality, file into the printer from USB (saved in the printer to remove USB before printing), and finally press this, press that, press this to increase support?, press that for highest quality printing, press this to select the type of resin being used, and finally print. I got my printer, but I'd rather see a 3-minute video to go from my .STL to Printing to removing the print.
22:28 UV Light isn't light (just below violet in the visible spectrum) it's energy. Makes total sense..... That film is def distorting the light. Is it what's making the prints look bad? It's part of the problem at least. 100%
Thanks for the thorough review, much appreciated. I had this on pre-order, but as the reviews rolled in and I realised it wasn't want I wanted, I cancelled it...I'm after the best possible detail capture and surface quality, not speed. I like the idea of auto-levelling, however I don't trust that the auto-level system in this printer is a robust system that will keep working flawlessly for at least a couple of years, I suspect that those spinrgs and the compression on the screen will end up causing problems over the short-medium term.
@@BrickBazooka Yes, Saturn 3 Ultra and I'll get a spare vat. One vat will have nFEP for printing miniatures and the other ACF for printing terrain pieces for gaming.
well all radiation is a form of energy, they are right there, but it is, ALSO light - and very few light sources won't be diffused from a semi-transparent solid. I am gonna guess going to a more transparent film will help those details - but - as you stated, at the cost of 'quick release' - so printing might be slower again, how much? Dunno. depends on the tuning of the machine.
They didn't "round" up or down when it came to the resolution. There are different standards for resolutions. 4K UHD is 3840 x 2160 pixels (standard for most computer monitors and TV's), but then there is 4096 x 2160 pixels (DCI 4K), which is what they use in the cinema. This is the same deal. They used the more widely recognized standard as 12k isn't even *really* a thing yet. Shit, 8K is barely even a thing yet.
and now let's assume that Anycubic engineers had reasons to use such a flexible and translucent film. Maybe there are problems with conventional films with such a system of auto bed level? Suddenly the bed tears up ordinary films and that's why it was decided to use a flexible one?
Ok found it and going to order it but can you clarify what "Significantly increase of base exposure" means in numbers? Is this the only setting someone needs? I'm printing on high speed resin but going to switch soon to craftsman since speed is not what I am looking for. Sorry not gonna ask you more I know you are busy as we all are. Bought this printer because of your videos and I think I even order it through your link, I hope it worked.
hi there thanks for the video.i bought a m5s but there is a problem that freak me out.after awhile of printing it gives an error 1101 screen fault and printing fails. can you help me with that??
seems like the opaque film is a cheap way to add a pseudo anti-alias effect to the print by blurring the edges of the pixels. which could be good or bad. Cant you slow down the print speed for better quality
Got mine a few days ago. Haven't had a print work yet. Not even the test print files that came with it. I'm using the High Speed resin and the high speed resin test. CHITUBOX doesn't seem to have settings for this printer yet, at least no the free version that I use.......I'm really not happy at the moment. I also use the Uniformation GK2 which prints take forever...
What do you think the likelyhood is that AnyCubic is full sh!t and the print quality is the same across both printers? If what they said is true then the sheet won't matter? Unless they never thought to check it I suppose?
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5
Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions ruclips.net/video/Gm0-z971tgY/видео.html)
Join this channel to get access to perks:
ruclips.net/channel/UC_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjAjoin
Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you)
This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Please read this let me know what you think mate! Your matrix test prints ive been getting EXACTLY the same issues i kinda knownwhat is going on here its the resin! Anycubic dont like other resin as much as their own im testing elgoos new like ABS 2.0 resin in my mono 2, Thinking it's definitely Not compression as used it all the time it had to be something else? The Resin itself! And yes the exposure had to be set to near doube than what i would originally print at withy anycubic like abs! Now ive done this amd lowred my bottom layer to 4 instead of the 5 or 6 it was standard with ive got it printing perfectly! So try this if not got it dialed in yet mate! If it was brand new out the box and done this i would have come to same conclusion compression! But its not! Try anycubics resin in the printer and try the test again itll probably be perfect or near perfect than that phrozen resin used!
You could always try what Dennic wang done and thickened up the scale in the slicer only upwards to pull the detail out slightly swch off the uniform scaling its better than using a raft! His models are cults if need thickened version of matrix but if you follow what i said at the start about me going through this with elgoos new 2.0 it was driving me crazy it really was, then finally got it perfect by changing them 2 settings! I would try it with anycubic resin first reset settings to default for that resin bet its good! So hope this helps you out
I was pretty sure that after your replies for the shorts comment, and after you've already said it's 99.9% the film, that you'll buy a new film, put it instead of this ACF and use frozen 8k like in your other videos and would include this testing in this video that took really long time to come up. Not to be rude, I thank you for your reviews and information, but this has stole 26 minutes from my life, you've added nothing new, and even subtracted the most (and only) important testing to a next video. When you said "If you've already preordered it please stop watching now" - this was acualy wrong because if the film replacement provides better details than the 8k midrange ones (with slow speed, 0.2mu hight, frozen 8k resin) for miniatures - then there is no reason for anyone to cancel it, or to choose the m5 instead, and we can enjoy both worlds.
Looks like I’m gonna cancel my m5s preorder and get the m5 . I need that detail and not speed
Well they are basically the same printer minus the auto leveling that is cool but whatever, leveling takes 3 minutes and you basically never have to do it again.
That being said I think its right that the ACF film is the problem and you can simply replace that with normal FEP.
Seems like I will be doing the same for my mars 4 ultra when it arrives.
@@magikarp2063 yeah looking at all of this I think they should had just put the acf and a fep into the Package and not squishing the „cool“ acf shit in our face 😂
Same. Ima see if I can swap n if they'll honor the early bird cuz detail > speed
Speed is nice, but that's too steep a trade for my liking
@@bardoksvisions5390I agree high quality not high speed
Lol basing your purchase decisions on a youtubers opinion LOL hilarious 🤣
I just don't see auto leveling as a huge step forward for resin printers, at least not like it is on FDM printers. This first gen of 12k 10" printers looks like a hard pass. I appreciate the innovation but I'll stick with my mini 8k for now as I don't need the extra build plate area
it's fast resin, not "pour it on the top of your build plate because you think it looks cool" resin
About the diffusion problem, it's opacity to visual light may be different to uv
Thank you for the thorough review! This will be my first resin printer. I hope your theory ends up being true. My pre-order is in, but I care about quality more than speed, but went with the M5s because of the auto leveling. Hopefully, better quality will be as easy as changing out the vat and resin. Honestly, it would be nice to have a high-speed and standard-speed option. Thanks again!
Hey there, have you received the printer yet and what were your experiences in detail trying various resins? Thanks!
I pre-ordered this as my first resin printer. I want to print DnD minis. I would be happy to print slower, with old FEP for better quality. I have been waiting for your thoughts and now I do not know what to do.... I assume I can cancel my order, but if you can show some quality prints with a normal FEP - I guess I would not cancel....
same...
There is a guy here "Smathalgoth" in the comments, who said he has bought the same matte ACF film the M5s uses, and he does not have a quality loss in his prints. If he's right, the issue is not something we can solve by ourselves.
By the way, i just canceled my preorder.
@@Gromic2k how did u cancel? There is no such function on the website for me
@@Gromic2k note that its display shows a blurry image and a strange color compared to other youtubers. uv is purple on his video is blue...
@@666Azmodan666 can be the white balance of the camera
I would bet money that if you replace the ACF film with nFEP this problem will disappear.
Thank you for going so deep into the issues with this printer. I was so close to buying it, but I think I need to let this gen cook a bit and buy next gen.
Yeah I saw it, prepaid for the machine. Then cancelled it last week after watching so many videos of the reviews. I'll stick to Phrozen and elegoo.
@dejanbrice8774 but they aren't better.. :/
@@BrickBazooka They are far better. Why do you say they are not?
I pre-ordered the m5s for ease of use and the speed so I’m not that concerned. However.. if it turns out that ordering a second vat and putting a clearer film in it gives me better prints when I do need it.. that would be a major bonus! Looking forward to your test!
Really hope he tests this
get a worktop silicone mat for baking, they're bigger and cheaper
"UV is not light, it's energy" - never heard something more stupid then the Creality technicians said. Every light is an energy. UV used in resin printers is just a little shorter wavelength than visible light and it can be scattered exactly the same way as a visible light. It is possible, that some material is perfectly transparent for some wavelengths, but in my opinion it's more likely that infrared (longer wavelength) will go through without scattering in this case than ultraviolet. So I totally agree, that the film might be an issue.
Maybe I can enjoy both worlds and not cancel the preorder? My convo with Anycubic:
Me:
hi, I've seen some reviews showing worst details for m5s 12k then older 8k and they said anat Anycubic said its less detailed and more speedy, and if you wand actually good details you should buy the M5... It is actually annoying, but they also said that maybe if I change the ACF film to a regular film I'll get all the details like using the M5. can you check it for me please?
Anycubic representative:
Hi Let me check with our team
Hi The ACF film itself has a frosted surface, which can cause some loss in precision.
However, in practical printing processes, if the laver thickness is 0.05mm, the difference in precision between the ACF film and the NEP film will not be significant. If you switch from ACF to NFEP film, under the same layer thickness conditions, the printing quality will be slightly better with NFEP, consistent with traditional machines.
However, using NFEP film will significantly reduce the printing speed.
Hello It's ok to achieve the same effect if you use NFEP.
However, please note that you cannot the high speed mode
Thankyou and I rest my case...
@@FauxHammer still must see your review to see how the exposure tests ends up :)
Had backed this early but cancelled in favor of a Sonic Mini 8ks because of delivery dates. No regrets.
Got this printer in my cart ready to check out, but then I found this video. You saved me! Thanks!
Thanks for the video, Ross. I’m disappointed as well. Bought this for 12k detail not fast printing. Looks like I will be going the Athena route. Also hope all is well with the wife. ❤
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks it’s only a day op but sat now in recovery waiting for obs and the ok to go.
A material can be "translucent" or "transparent" at different energy levels and/or wavelengths. Energy at a certain wave band lengths is also known as "light". The difference between white light and UV light may make that translucent ACF sheet more transparent.
Also, the pixels on the M5s are rectangular, so what would happen to your test plates if you rotated them right 45 and 90 degrees?
I came here to say the same thing. I'd really like to see the the rotated result, too.
Moreover, material can be similar to ulexite or selenite and maintain a 1:1 fiber-optic like parallel projection through the material. I don't know the properties of this sheet, but if the engineers are saying the perceived translucency isn't the cause of this issue, I'm inclined to believe them.
"wave band lengths"
Your video is incredible, I also saw Vogman, and apparently everything can point to the ACF sheet, it would be interesting if you could locate a PFA sheet for that tray and change it to test if those strange details are actually maintained in the final piece.
Thanks for sharing
Normal M5 is on the way, I’ll use that vat.
After some of the initial hype over these printers was going around, I actually sourced a sheet of this ACF film to experiment with on a Mono 4k. I have noticed zero difference in detail for the same exposure settings vs an NFEP sheet, and was able to get away with much higher lift speeds along with finer support tips than would reliably work for me previously. So I don't think the ACF film is to blame here. My guess would be this "12k" screen Anycubic and Elegoo have sourced is just crap, the rectangular pixels just being the tip of the iceberg of compromises.
@@Smathalgoth what resin are you using?
@@FauxHammer Mostly Siraya Tech Fast, but also some Ameralabs TGM-7. The latter of which had the biggest improvements for list speed and support settings.
@@Smathalgoth can you try the same test Fauxhammer used in the video and share the results? I would love to know if you are able to get all the small details that the M5s misses
I see this over and over and over lately. Why do people pour the resin into the vat by pouring over the top of the build plate? Seriously curious.
Looks good on camera. Could also help disperse bubbles that were created from shaking up the resin bottle.
@@TheRoamingbison i see. Thank you!
I bought this printer wanting auto leveling, that juicy build volume and I print at .02mm Layer height.speed is not what I want.
I’m listening to the video but would you suggest I send it back? I have a Saturn 2 but I want as much detail as possible. The leveling has been an issue for me because some prints seem to affect it.
Should I return and get a dlp instead or just wait. Or keep and hope for firmware or better film?
It’s literally coming tomorrow and I’m unsure I should keep it while I have a saturn2
Please compare the ACF film to normal FEP.
I've preordered the mars 4 ultra and I wanna know if I should just instantly switch the VAT to normal FEP.
You go back and forth on this. Based on what they provide you, and what they're selling, a "easy to use" printer. The quality isn't there, so it's not worth buying. You shouldn't need to contact support to get it to print more detail, it should work out of the box.
I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something new they added that I wasn't aware of
Just got an answer for Anycubic: About the effect of using ACF:
The ACF film has a thickness of 0.3mm and a matte surface on the bottom, which differs from the 0.15mm smooth FEP release film.
Due to the light scattering phenomenon within the resin vat, the ACF film may slightly affect the surface details of the printed model.
Specifically, it could result in a decrease in the model's matte finish and the appearance of minor fine lines.
However, in practical printing scenarios using non-high-speed resin with a layer thickness of 0.05mm, 16x anti-aliasing, grayscale 0, and blur 3 settings, the print quality is comparable to that of the M5. Moreover, the light scattering effect of the ACF film can actually improve the anti-aliasing performance compared to FEP.
so, when you print with 16x AA!!! That's a lot!
So we are really getting there! That now admitted light scattering of the ACF may indeed "improve" anti-aliasing, which is in fact blurring, if you are fast printing with the 0.1mm layers or normal printing at 16x anti-aliasing with 3 blur settings but your high definition models will always suffer. So a M5 or M5s with nFEP will always outperform as regards accuracy of printing compared to using ACF. I commend Anycubic for honesty here but I strongly suggest they ship with two resin vats one with ACF for speed another with nFEP for accuracy... before more customers jump boat.
@@brianhickling1867 I told them the exact same thing. Though i suggested a fep sheetonly rather than a whole vVAt to keep costs down. This is still one of the best Vats of all the brands
16x anti-aliasing... 🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂🙃🙂🤣🤣🤣
With all the other data points these symptoms can only really be image convolution, either through diffusion in the film, distance from the screen or lack of collimation in the throw (depending on the system), unless the display itself is jank which I doubt. There aren't that may variables. It can't be about exposure, it's about acuity on the fluid boundary plane. Basically blurriness due to diffusion, contact offset or display problems.
Their engineers saying UV is energy not light is troubling nonsense.
Hi Ross, I pre-ordered the M5s and was straight away concerned about the ACF due to being translucent. In my experience, the more distance you have between the LCD crystals and the resin in the vat (glass, screen protector, air gap, ...), the more light bleed you get and with the ACF diffusing the light "energy" on top of that you might end up in a loss of sharpness. I never put a screen protector for this reason and luckily never had a pierced film issue. I have yet to test the super thin nFEP/FEP for improving sharpness. I'm looking forward to see if a few changes would improve the sharpness from my mini 8k.
I am also in the same pre-order boat as you.
This idea of UV being "energy", not light, and is not being affected by ACF opaque diffusion of the light passing through the film is complete nonsense.
UV is ordinary every day light that has unique properties that we take advantage of in our resin printers.
PROOF: UV was discovered by using a prism that divided all incoming light.
Just unpacked mine and now watched this.... DISAPOINTED.
If you find a solution to problems in mentioned in this video, please post them.
@@Wenturi The solution: Use it. It's really good at printing figures. If you need the absolute sharpest prints, install FEP.
@@_SamUSA_ Thats it? I only need to install FEP if I want the absolute sharpest prints?
Thanks man!
@@Wenturi It needs to be tuned of course according to the resin and FEP changes, but yea, great detail now!
nice review although it would be interresting to know how the prints (for the minis) are when you use "regular" settings with normal resin
Deciding between this and the Elegoo saturn 3 12k ultra. The print quality does seem higher on the Saturn but what is your opinion?
The prints are sharper on the Saturn 3 than on the M5. But I have not used the Ultra. The Ultra uses ACF film which also slightly blurrs the image. My supposition is that it won't do it as much as the M5 will, but it will do a bit.
@@FauxHammer I ended realizing that the saturn 3 was just way to big for how I would use this. I am going to print infantry size minis 95% of the time. So I ended deciding between the mars 4 ultra and the mars 3. Once I saw Uncle Jesse had to use a digital microscope to see any actual differences between 4k and 8k, I just didnt see the point of spending 2x the money. The wireless is nice but I dont mind walking an USB to my printer once in a while since I wont be printing like a madman
UV light is light. Take it from this physicist. It is just as easily diffracted, refracted, and reflected as visible light. (All light is, of course, also energy.) The technicians are spouting nonsense.
But… but… Creality told me it was Energy…
@FauxHammer Is that ACF on the M5S transparent when you put it onto a flat surface? For example, if you put it on a paper with some text on it, does it still look "cloudy"?
Just for reference, the Aorita ACF is perfectly transparent when it's on a flat surface.
Also, ACF (which is almost certainly "Amorphous Cellulose Film", bonded to a silicone substrate) is ~6% less transmissive of UV than FEP or PFA.
Good, thorough, informative review, thanks for all that effort, it's appreciated!
I have this M5S printer and it doesn't have Leveling Free, I normally have a tray with screws - I honestly don't recommend this printer, it's the worst bottom ever released by ANYCUBIC! The prints of small figures are worse than on my MONO X :(
yet another excellent review, potentially saving us from a purchase not suitable for certain requirements. Keep up the great work!
I’m curious about the Elagoo 12k and then I’ll decide after
Some notes on automatic leveling and AFC: 1. Force detection for automatic bed leveling: There is a printed circuit board (electronic sensor board connected to the main board in the lower housing) in the head under the large round screw to which the print platform is attached. Nothing mechanical under the tray. In fact, that would be trivial, not smart, and prone to error. When the platform is pressed down, the flexible part (AFC) deforms so that the screen part adheres firmly to the pressure platform. At the same time, the machine detects the pressure between the pressure platform and the screen component (AFC) and uses a preset value to determine whether leveling is complete. Once the preset value is reached, printing can begin. Therefore, do not replace the AFC film with another film. Pressure scanning would then no longer be possible. 2. AFC ( yes translucent ): I recommend to use the supplied original R.E.R.F.stl file ( R_E_R_F" (Resin Exposure Range Finder) ) for each resin type for this printer. 8 different exposure models are printed in time steps of 0.25s (1.5s-3.25s) and are really intelligently modeled. You can download it from Support / Model Download. Each model has a number that refers to the exposure time and a very detailed explanation is provided.
In general, speed vs. resolution: the application/resin determines the choice and requirements. There is no general golden rule. You need to match the 12K to your needs and you will get great results. Have fun printing - Herri in China.
PS: the current Wash bucket (Wash & Cure Pro) is not large enough for the 10.1in platform. Models need to be removed to be washed and cured. That is really a pity in the moment. There is a larger bucket in development, but no availability time is scheduled yet.
Hi, di you work in the industry? According to what you say p, one can not replace the film on the M5S. It’s interesting and I wonder if you have tested it.
@fauxhammer did you see this?
Just now yes
What is your source for all of this information? It’s all very interesting. But forgive my need to request validation?
@@FauxHammer Hello, I'm sorry, I don't know your name. Direct sources: Anycubic + Aorita. And of course my general engineering knowledge. I built 3D printers and CNC machines myself years ago, just out of necessity and interest. But then I gave that up when the local offers got better and better. In the meantime, I have many very good partners here in China. Basically, I can realize anything I want.
My only wish: there is a large audience following you and others reviewing the latest equipment, but when I read many comments from irritated and disappointed followers, I thought it would be better to provide some clarity to restore confidence in the latest technology. And to clarify: I am not affiliated with anyone, just passionate about the creation and methods of doing so. The recent products from Bambu Lab and other great developers show what is possible when skill and conviction are used to get very good tools into the hands of many people at incredibly low prices. I am grateful for that. Herri
You can put an extension cable on it, yes a bother but this makes it a lot easier, there are low form factor angled ones and everything.
I will be interested to see if it is the film dropping quality, it could result in people buying a second vat with PFA so they have a "fast vat" and a "detailed vat". Great review as always!
You know ive got an idea. Im buying an extra vat and putting normal FEP on it so i can have a "true"(ish) 12k printer for my detailed prints and a faster printer. Best of both worlds!
Thanks for the video - your candid reviews are very valuable.
This thing sounds ...like dud.
I mean - being faster with .1 - well, any of my printers will be faster printing 2x or 5x thicker layers....
one note - THANK YOU - for showing trying to remove that resin - it looks incredibly brittle.
Finally "energy not light" - um....that is one of the most silly things I have ever heard - especially considering the resin cures at a certain frequency of LIGHT (that energy is in photons).
This printer sounds like it may indeed have some useful new features (error detection sounds amazing....if we know how it actually works) but overall - this sounds like a total hard pass on this printer.
Don’t buy this printer: I bought 2x M5s 2x wks ago as a package with wash n cure plus. Completely inappropriate that the build plate doesn’t fit the wash and cure plus. Regardless, nothing sticks to the build plates, the autolevelling doesn’t work. I managed to level the bed by homing with it loose and then tightening. Alas, still not sticking to bed - I’ve been through every forum and anycubic support, base layers tried upto 2mins exposure, with a resin that sticks to everything else with ease… Am now sending the whole package back for refund, wish me luck!
lol "UV is energy not light"..... wooooow.... I hope to god you were just talking to some marketing or sales person when they said that, and not like, someone who is supposed to be knowledgeable about the product, lol. wow... just.... wow...
And in case anyone doesn't know... the definition of "UV" is specifically shorthand for "Ultraviolet light", specifically light within 100 to 400nm wavelength. Further, UV radiation is affected by scattering, just like visible light.
just... wow.
I was told that the Creality Tech team said this… I laughed. Now you understand on a new level why that review was so harsh.
@@FauxHammer lol, amazing
I wonder if they actually believe that, or if it's just outright dishonesty, thinking that their customers are all too stupid to catch it, lol.
I imagine Anycubic like the great Wizard of Oz, pull back the curtain, and it is just one man running the whole company.
Gutted, was hoping this would be a good first step into resin printing. Just cancelled my pre-order, back to the drawing board i guess, as probs need to wait 6-12 months for the newer speed and quality features to mature enough. Ideally I was looking for something that could do quick prototypes and still do high quality final prints, the auto leveling was a bonus too. ☹
As ever @FauxHammer, great and real reviews. I really appreciate the honest approach inc. the shorts . Keep up the great work.
Thanks, you do realise you could have kept your preorder and just replaced the ACF sheet?
@@FauxHammer Yeah, I saw at the end of the vid you said about swapping the film out, but hadn't yet tested it as wanted to get the vat from the M5. I actually pre-ordered it based on Vogs video, as it was "ok" and the main issues he seemed to talk about was the lack of quality jump from 12k to 8k (even a slight step down due to the rectangular pixels) without really having issues with the film. I had orignally looked at getting the 8KS, but after that I thought the marginal quality loss for the ability to prototype would be worth it. But needing to buy a new film for a new printer and dial that in (as i'm a complete newbie to resin) would mean i am more likely to get worse results thatn either of you two pillars of printing 😊
Good for you. Shitty practices shouldn't be rewarded. Replacing things out of the box isn't a reasonable solution.
@@Hartwig870 how is it a shitty practice? The printer is marketed for its speed. literally the 5"S". the film is designed for speed. that comes with trade offs
Sounds like half your gripes begin with the phrase "I wrongly assumed... " 😂
Any moron who claims that UV is "energy" and not "light" is mental. To be clear, UV radiation is high-energy wavelengths of light (The blue-er the light, the more energy if my physics memory serves me correct). All light has wave-like and particle-like features and functions. All wavelengths of light react the same way from gamma to x-ray to visible to IR and beyond. That being said, some wavelengths can penetrate through substrates better (or worse) than visible light. This is most evident with the Coke experiment, whereby, Coca Cola is opaque and brown-ish to our eyes, but completely (or at least largely) transparent to IR (infrared) light. I have never actually used a resin 3D printer, and this will be my first, so I'll be learning along the way.
I see, however, three most probable issues going on here:
1. Squishing, whereby the auto-leveling is too tight, and every time a layer lowers back, it jams against the film and flattens more than it should.
2. ACF dispersion, whereby the ACF is unwittingly dispersing and diffracting/refracting UV radiation into a (slightly) different direction which reduces clarity and, therefore, effective resolution.
3. The last probable phenomenon going on is whereby the Light is not perfectly focal. That is to say that the Fresnel lenses should be adjusted up or down very slightly to match the focal distance of the backlights. This is an issue that I'm very familiar with in laser cutting/engraving, and could certainly be causing lower quality prints. Using washers or shims under the vat *might* be able to effect this and focus the light better (assuming this is the issue, and the focal plane sits in front of the glass plate). However, if this is the problem, and the focal plane lie behind the glass, it would require disassembly of the machine and manual adjustment of the main Fresnel lense (or the individual collimator lenses).
I *highly* doubt that the M5 has significant quality differences from the M5s (at least not intrinsically). I'd reckon that the manual bed leveling might result in better light focus. The mechanics of the M5s are going to be almost, if not entirely, identical to the M5.
I was on the fence about buying an M5s or Saturn 3 (the regular one, not the ultra).. decided to go with Saturn 3.. I like the idea of auto leveling but I think Anycubic underutilized the force detection technology.. and I don't want to compromise quality for speed.. especially seeing what kind of issues you're having because of the new fep film..
and cheers on the best M5s review on YT!
I got one of these and first time using today.
I wish they had move video on the clean up. I made a mistake on my first clean up. After emptying the vat, it had bits stick to the vat, so as carefully as I did try to remove by scraping, bad mistake. I should have run the vat clean and remove this way with one go. Hopeful not creating problem, but I can see visual lines now. I went to order another vat to have anyway, but you cannot as yet in New Zealand.
Putting on the screen protector - oh my. Like you said, it has air gaps on the bevel of the screen. But for me, I have some air bubbles that I am sure is creating problem when I try to print flat services like a cube box that is required for the job I paid to buy this printer. To hold PCB boards.
Time for my second print, a box with a lid, well this did not turn out well at all. The flat top of the lid was not flat, and the resin did not set right. I'm going to remove the screen protector and try again another day. Other screen protecters are on order and to be honest, like a cell phone, I just never use them. Only two prints so I will keep playing and learning.
As a beta release I got 6 lots of 1KG of fast resin. I wish they had ship others to play with.
Look forward to your review on the non- s version. I hope I have not made a mistake but it was not a large amount of money anyway.
Try anycubics UV tough flexible and anycubic Like ABS there perfect has to be said! Very strong amazing details in prints im comparing it to elgoos Like ABS 2.0 at the moment and its miles better than the new 2.0 from elgoo! The 2.0 ,needs strained aswell before use there s loads crus in it like grit and on 4th bottle to see if just a bad batch but there all the same so beware if using the new elgoo 2.0 like abs it might punctured more than your FEP! Strain it in filter first you'll be amazed what the mesh catches! And the exposure time also needs to be set way up to 5s on elgoo printers and 3.5 on anycubics! There is a video someone's done on here about the 2.0 being way different to the original stuff and won't print unless change all your pronter settings sonsave record the ones your normally using you will be swapping about a good bit with this resin and its alot thicker than anycubics Like abs! So thats why im thinking the like abs from anycubic will work well at this fast printing because ofnhow thin it is! It printing beautifully on mono 2 it's changed days from old anycubic resins what anycubic are makong these days!.i just cannot fault anycubic at the moment
0:09 seconds.... And I feel the same fucking pain... I beat everything in that game.... Because my ex told me to take my time and see everything before the final boss..... I just feel like I went through vietnam again
Lol at the "This is energy, not light".
I've learned from video games not to pre order anything until you see the reviews! Thanks for your hard work and putting out these videos!
Callisto Protocol comes to mind...
And this is why i am holding out on this 5s and the elgoo 12k as both use exactly the same chiu LEDs with rectangular streched pixels amd leaves like scrach crosshatch lines in your prints!. I bought the mono 4k as a first printer its excellent but way to small so boght the the mono 2 on promotional deal cheap and with free wash and cure for well under what i paid for the 4k! Only its has the correct screen size pixels for a true 4k as why they call it now a 4k plus and will print as good as any 8k printer out there and their not wrong! Im absolutely blown away with the mono 2 if only it had a 10in build plate i think it would be the perfect printer! Big statement but stand by that 100% and hope anycubic see this and make a 10in version with nothing else changed! Its a printer that doesn't need nothing but scaled up!
Did you remember how to change a FEP film already? I don’t see why this isn’t tested yet.. changing the new film with clear FEP should be a small task..
Anycubic have there bottom layers standard set to 30 reduce it to 20 or 20 this is what i have done personally as with the new type etched build plate it just sticks like god knows what and will not fall off! I've tried lol 20 is what mine is at but you can lower it bit by bit to suit you, it is still soild but once get your blade under each of the 4 corners and the print will break loose youll hear that satisfying break free and the whole print will just come loose from the middle! don't try and go right under from one side as soon as dried it sticks more when IPA dries off, you'll damage print and cut into plate!
Thank me later it's changed the way i remove prints for good! Never broke a print this way yet! Touch wood lol
Yeah, that's a no to me. Buffing up speed and print times for marketing, by forcing people to use FDM level layer heights to achieve that, is a cheat of the highest degree. I can can forgo inflated marketing claims, until they are pure lies. I can understand special resin, but with that alone, this will not be as quick then.
Edit: sounds like a misunderstanding on my part, check the comment chain for further info.
Gotta give a differing opinion here. I don't think it's necessarily fair to say a printer has layer lines and low quality while only printing at 0.1mm layer height. Any printer will have visible lines at that point.
The release film and exposure is definitely worth further testing and investigation, especially using other resin. More testing is needed for sure, I'm curious to see if you do any other tests in time for me to decide whether I want to cancel my pre order!
I don’t understand how that’s unfair. Any print with 0.1mm layers will have layer lines and poor quality when compared to the 0.05mm layers that people typically use.
It’s got nothing to do with the printer. As you say, any printer will ab e visible lines at that point.
Again, I don’t get what you are saying this point is unfair. But then also validate the same point
@Fauxhammer Maybe I worded my initial comment poorly. My intention was to differentiate the criticism of the printer from the criticism of the print settings.
As we both agree, any printer using 0.1mm layer height will suffer from quality issues, it's got nothing to do with the specific printer. My impression from the video was that you were attributing this low quality to the printer itself, rather than the settings, which is what I took issue with. From your reply to my comment, it sounds like that was a misunderstanding on my part and probably wasn't your intention.
Either way, it sounds like we're both on the same page! Love your content, keep it up bro.
just bought one but I already owned a mars 4 only problem I had was leveling it because it could get a single successful print after I had a the benchy print for some reason
Its energy not light has to be one of the dumbest things I've heard from these companies.
Light has energy (e=hf). Uv has higher frequencies than visible so higher energy which means its transmission and diffraction properties going through a material will be different to that of visible light bit just saying its not light is utter bollocks.
CAN ANYONE ELSE HERE OVER THE M5S FANS??? LOL Waw they cannot be serious!!
Hi there Faux...I have worked for over 20 years in tech and have tried to collaborate with Elegoo to help them better their products but every time I tried to assist them they were un denial that the 3d printers had some type of defect that could of been made better for the same of the customer so yeah I know what your talking about in this video...plus more...
Anybody know why this printer is estimated for an August delivery date right now, but can be bought on Amazon and delivered in like a week? Is it a scalper or what?
Great job, but Im confused Did you run the test with regular resin {maybe 8k} and using the not speed setting? or was everything done with the speed settings and the fast resin which we know sacrifices detail (big time)
I used 8k resin at the normal speeds I have used on all my older printers. I slowed it down to the speeds it should typically work at
Would love to see a follow up with the film replaced
Hello Faux Hammer. Im currently using a Photon Mono X printer, and was looking at this one in particular. I dont care about speed prints really, i dont mind a print takes 6 hours, as long as i get nice results. What are your current favorite printer in the 500 ish price range for miniatures?
Thanks for the great review, can't wait to see what it would look like with normal PFA (nFEP) sheet, if that is the real culprit....honestly I'm assuming it's the sprint system on the screen, maybe it's designed so that it pushes further than normal each layer, and that's how it's detecting failures or things that are stuck...
This would mean that the force sensors on the printer are not very sensitive, and it requires slightly more force than normal to get the layers in
One way to test that would be to check for Z height accuracy, compared to XY, if my hypothesis is correct, you're Z accuracy would be lower than normal, when using the same resin compared to other printers
I'm on the fence of cancelling my order, I ordered a few of this printer because of the amazing price and features, but it seems all too good to be true
did you cancel your order?
@@BrickBazooka no I have not
@@muhammadsammy9484 why not?
@BrickBazooka I don't want to base my whole decision on 1 review, and I'll try some troubleshooting of my own in one of the machines. If it doesn't work, I'll return the rest..
I have a ton of different types of sheets, so I'll test that out first with different resins, but if it has to do with the plate leveling system there won't be anything to do about that.
I also want to test the Z and XY accuracy, I want to know if the tension from the springs affects the Z accuracy and if the rectangular pixels affect the XY accuracy
Yo, FauxHammer you doing okay man? Sounds like you are getting burned out by the comments? Don't let the noise get to you.
so 26 minutes video long, saying it is the ACF, and you wont show the result with a NFEP? Really?
Just a note about semantics: the ACF is *translucent*, not *opaque*. The latter term means "blocks light completely", and is the binary opposite of *transparent*, which means "blocks no light at all". Everything between those two binary end points is, well, translucent!
I'd wish I could have seen this video before. I orderer it and I super regret. Low quality prints are meh, but the main issue is perma print fails, no matter what solution I try, it just never work. Either the auto leveling, the shitty quality of the Anycubic resin or idk but i get 24/7 perma failures. I regret so much buying this 3d printer
So sorry to hear that. It should at least be working
The prints would come off easier with heat or hot water for sure.
For some reason my comment was deleted, not sure if something got triggered in the youtube algorithm, but I'll try again just in case.
Thank you for the much deeper dive on the M5s! It really highlighted the small detail and normal resin usage that seemed to be mostly skipped on other reviews.
While I did get in on the early bird pricing, I'm still on the fence about if I should just cancel the order. The first and foremost reason is how they seem to be treating their pre-order customers. The M5 and M5s are both available and are shipping out on amazon, but the pre-orders are not being fulfilled yet.
oof, that's at least a better reason to cancel than - i watched your video and now think this printer is crap - because i hope I showed, it isn't - it's a really, really good printer.
I'm not sure who handles the Amazon shipping weather that's Anycubic or a third part supplier, that could be the answer.
@@FauxHammer I reached out to Anycubic support and they said:
"I am sorry that anycubic official website and anycubic Amazon belong to different operation departments. The inventory management of the two is different."
Ok, but it doesn't really address the fact that the first shipments from manufacturing are obviously not going to the pre-orders.
@@Skulltap Welcome to how Chiinese companies do customer service. we wouldn;t tell you any different in the UK, but we would also avoid allowing shipments to go that way and have better control of distribution. It's probably a cultural difference, hI can only presume it;s hard to operate cleanly overseas.
@@FauxHammer If it was just local sales that were opened first then I could rationalize it enough. Not be particularly happy, but at least rationalize it. I have seen the same thing with kickstarters as well. The logistics cost on the pre-orders being from all over the world can't be cheap or easy for them, but sending it to the amazon warehouses first is a dirty move. At the end of the day, its really about the money and I understand it. I don't have to like it, but its a reality. If the cost was closer to that early bird pricing I'd be real tempted to cancel and purchase through amazon just because of the ease with amazon returns here in the states.
I strongly suspect that part of the overexposure issues are from too much UV power. I have seen similar issues in other printers. Is the UV backlight adjustable in the slicer? If so, try setting it to 50% and do your RERF again. I am willing to bet that it increases print quality considerably at the cost of slightly higher exposure times.
you can't lower the exposure on this in the slicer i had. But in my experience on numerous other printers, lowering exposure and having the light on longer exacerbates this issue rather than helps resolve it.
all this ever does is result in the resin potentially being a bit softer at the end of the print. Fast curing = more brittle prints.
@@FauxHammer Oh well, that's a bummer. In Lychee and Chitubox you can lower the UV PWM and it greatly improves print quality. I know other Anycubic printers were recommended to run at 60% UV power for many resins. I think this printer was designed to print fast, not to print clean so they put a super bright LED on it. The original Epax E10 had the same problem, UV too bright for standard resins so there was a ton of bloom.
@@TheRoamingbison Yep! They use a 480:1 contrast panel compared to the 300:1 one on their 8K printers so a 60% output increase. I think that sloppy fast resin needs the power!
I gave up on Anycubic when the M3 Max came out and it took nearly a year to get to working. Anycubic customer service was horrible. I'm still on the fence about any of these 12K printers because so far I haven't seen any real visible difference in the 8K versus the 4k or 6k.
5:03 if they cheap out on things like this (bad usb placement) I wonder where they cut corners on other things too…
The thing about uv being energy and not light, and vice versa, is nonsensical. Uv light, yes light, is one of many forms of radiant energy. The energy transfer in the light absorption is what causes stuff like radiation burns from uv exposure, and this resin to cure.
In other words, the creality tech saying “Nono it’s energy” needs to take a very basic physics class.
Loving your vids btw!
Yeah, I was glad to get more digs in at creality in this video becasue i didn't have the time to complain about them enough in my Mage Pro vid.
Hola buenas. He comprado la m5s y esta de camino a mi casa. He visto este video y no me ha dado tiempo a cancelar el pedido para elegir otro modelo diferente. Si cambio la resina y algún que otro ajuste puedo conseguir un nivel de detalle notablemente mas alto ? Gracias y un saludo
Not noticeable no. But it’s not terrible either. It’s fine
‘Math’, sounds not only ridiculous, but pretentious to say the least, with your accent 😂
I havent bought a resin 3d printer yet but I find interesting that you are fine with .1mm layer hight I mean it sure is fast but I thought that the the resin guys would be looking at printing faster but with .5mm layer height being the standard. I come from filament 3d printing looking to make more detailed figures (I just love paiting them) but I have thought that the newer resin 3d printers would be aiming for thinner layers printed faster.
Sorry. I struggled to read that? What do you mean please? Because I’m not fine with .1mm layers
I have this printer and I have this issue where prints either come out warped, stick to the rep or don’t print at all does anyone know how to resolve this issue?
I have a friend with a double doctorate in physics. If I were to tell him that "UV is energy, not light," I couldn't even begin to predict what his reaction would be.
The truth is that everything from ELF (Extremely Low Frequency radio waves used by submarines for communication) through to to visible light, UV, X-rays, and gamma rays (the OG killer of the EMR spectrum) are all forms of electromagnetic radiation (EMR). Generally speaking, higher frequencies of EMR can penetrate materials more readily than lower frequencies, though this interaction varies significantly based on the specific wavelength and material in question. On the other hand, lower-frequency EMR (right down to ELF) is very easily blocked but tends to diffract around many obstacles due to its long wavelength. Just make sure your ELF receiver is not setup so its directly occluded by a giant rock.
(nerd trap sprung?)
I actually like explanations like this
any news on the m5s pro. just had a update for their workshop and lists it complete with settings
resolution x 13312 y5120.
print size x 223.642 y 126.480 z 200.000.
pixel size x 16.800 y pixel 24.800
exposure settings slightly different
and by the looks it has a filter.
i am enjoying my m5s got both vats but still using the frosted one.
I've asked for one. lets see.
Hopefully, this is merely a software and film replacement issue, similar to past instances when 3D printer companies faced backlash over plastic versus metal tubes. They rectified the situation by switching them out, resulting in satisfied customers. The same needs to be done here. Extensive testing should always take precedence over rushing to kickstart. Companies often find the latter too tempting, but it's not always the best route. And no Thank You for this content!
....... "UV is energy, not light." ... Light is energy, too. It could just be that they're -stupid- poor communicators, and what they meant is that the film is completely transparent to UV light, even though it's not to visible spectrum light.
But Creality told me different!!! They must be right 😓
use boiling water on back of build plate then scrape prints off easy
screen size is generally done by measuring from a bottom corner of a screen to an opposite top corner, diagonally across the screen. they do this all the time with computer monitors as well.
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5s Here: geni.us/PhotonM5s
Buy the Anycubic Photon M5 Here: geni.us/PhotonM5
Get any 3D printer working quickly & easily with the our beginner guide ruclips.net/video/Gm0-z971tgY/видео.html)
3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat
This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Artis Opus FauxHammer Essentials Set: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-mixed-brush-set-5-brush-deluxe
FauxHammer Patreon - www.patreon.com/fauxhammerblog
FauxHammer Facebook Group - facebook.com/groups/PaintHub
FauxHammer 3D Printing Group - facebook.com/groups/3dprintedminiatures
FauxHammer Discord - discord.gg/dPexM9SeN4
Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/best-airbrushes-for-miniatures-wargames-models/
Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/best-beginner-airbrush-for-miniatures/
Affiliate Links to support us.
Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures-by-manufacturer/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/warhammer-40000-indomitus-english-?d=10279
Wayland Games - affiliates.waylandgames.co.uk/781-1-3-4.html
Forbidden Planet: forbiddenplanet.com/catalog/?q=Warhammer%20Imperium&sort=title&page=1&affid=FauxHammer&
Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Warhammer&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Website: www.fauxhammer.com/
Facebook: facebook.com/pg/FauxHammerBlog/
Twitter: twitter.com/FauxHammerBlog
Instagram: instagram.com/fauxhammerblog/
Pinterest: www.pinterest.co.uk/fauxhammer/
Video Editing by VidPros: app.vidpros.io/r/J50Z26
00:00 - Intro
I am still struggling with the WLAN that is not working after Power On. I do completely remove power to the printer, when not in use. After that it doesn’t reconnect to my WLAN, which is a pain in the …. using the USB File „approach“ it is telling my ‚File format not corect‘ - but I followed the instructions in the app. Configuration via app works after some try and error but is forgotten after power off… I dunno… how to solve this…
I put my printer in the garage because of the smell. And having no direct access the App would be nice, if the printer did not loose the WLAN settings… my phone does connect there effortlessly (being in the garage)
“Light vs energy” is an insulting non-explanation. It is fair, however, that a “blurry film” may not mean lower resolution. For one, you’re only seeing how it diffuses visible light, UV could be passing perfectly transparently. The second issue is focal length. You’re looking from a dozen cm away to something that is a dozen cm behind the film, and that’s not what is happening during a print. Submerged in a liquid resin on one side, with a projection focused on the release film, it may be almost completely transparent. You can even see how much more clear it appears before you peel off the protective layer, and liquid resin would be having a similar effect.
All that said, I just unboxed mine, and I want to throttle whoever thought that screen protector was a good idea. A replaceable glass screen next time please.
I know, I was so infuriated by that comment.
Hi, Here's an idea. Y not make a short video how to do a first print for newbies like myself? A part file into the PhotoWorkShop ... settings for maximum quality, file into the printer from USB (saved in the printer to remove USB before printing), and finally press this, press that, press this to increase support?, press that for highest quality printing, press this to select the type of resin being used, and finally print. I got my printer, but I'd rather see a 3-minute video to go from my .STL to Printing to removing the print.
Good idea. Ok I’m on it.
22:28 UV Light isn't light (just below violet in the visible spectrum) it's energy. Makes total sense..... That film is def distorting the light. Is it what's making the prints look bad? It's part of the problem at least. 100%
yep, agreed
Think the sonic mighty 8k is a better choice? both are about the same price now.
Thanks for the thorough review, much appreciated. I had this on pre-order, but as the reviews rolled in and I realised it wasn't want I wanted, I cancelled it...I'm after the best possible detail capture and surface quality, not speed. I like the idea of auto-levelling, however I don't trust that the auto-level system in this printer is a robust system that will keep working flawlessly for at least a couple of years, I suspect that those spinrgs and the compression on the screen will end up causing problems over the short-medium term.
so you gonna buy elegoo saturn 3?
@@BrickBazooka Yes, Saturn 3 Ultra and I'll get a spare vat. One vat will have nFEP for printing miniatures and the other ACF for printing terrain pieces for gaming.
well all radiation is a form of energy, they are right there, but it is, ALSO light - and very few light sources won't be diffused from a semi-transparent solid.
I am gonna guess going to a more transparent film will help those details - but - as you stated, at the cost of 'quick release' - so printing might be slower again, how much? Dunno. depends on the tuning of the machine.
It’s 30% based on official specs, but that is dependant on your resin. If your current rdsin likes a very slow lift, you won’t gain much
What resin should I buy for this printer?
They didn't "round" up or down when it came to the resolution. There are different standards for resolutions. 4K UHD is 3840 x 2160 pixels (standard for most computer monitors and TV's), but then there is 4096 x 2160 pixels (DCI 4K), which is what they use in the cinema. This is the same deal. They used the more widely recognized standard as 12k isn't even *really* a thing yet. Shit, 8K is barely even a thing yet.
and now let's assume that Anycubic engineers had reasons to use such a flexible and translucent film. Maybe there are problems with conventional films with such a system of auto bed level? Suddenly the bed tears up ordinary films and that's why it was decided to use a flexible one?
They used the flexible because you can print faster
So have you finnaly switch films ACF with FEP and what are the settings, im about to order FPA if this makes my prints look better but does it worth?
I did a second video comparing this with the M5 printer and showed the results of this
Ok found it and going to order it but can you clarify what "Significantly increase of base exposure" means in numbers? Is this the only setting someone needs? I'm printing on high speed resin but going to switch soon to craftsman since speed is not what I am looking for. Sorry not gonna ask you more I know you are busy as we all are. Bought this printer because of your videos and I think I even order it through your link, I hope it worked.
hi there thanks for the video.i bought a m5s but there is a problem that freak me out.after awhile of printing it gives an error 1101 screen fault and printing fails.
can you help me with that??
I've not had that issue, have you contacted Anycubic Support? i think only they can help you. though will probably recommend a firmware update first
seems like the opaque film is a cheap way to add a pseudo anti-alias effect to the print by blurring the edges of the pixels. which could be good or bad. Cant you slow down the print speed for better quality
Yes, you can do that, but will still be more blurred than others
Got mine a few days ago. Haven't had a print work yet. Not even the test print files that came with it. I'm using the High Speed resin and the high speed resin test. CHITUBOX doesn't seem to have settings for this printer yet, at least no the free version that I use.......I'm really not happy at the moment. I also use the Uniformation GK2 which prints take forever...
What do you think the likelyhood is that AnyCubic is full sh!t and the print quality is the same across both printers?
If what they said is true then the sheet won't matter? Unless they never thought to check it I suppose?
Very unlikely