Way to go RRC tools! Knocking it out of the park! I am extended family to this family business and they are the epitome of "work smarter, not harder." This tool has saved them so much time and effort. So glad Spray Jones approves too! Congrats on all your innovations helping others get to "clean up and go home" faster! Loved the video, so much great information and demonstrations were clear. Thank you!
I personally have seen this item in use and know the family that's created it. As a non-spray foamer, watching from the sidelines, I am so impressed. It's easier on your body, and while there are multiple small bits to clean up, a broom works well before a vacuum. This family is absolutely dedicated to making this product work for the spray foam world! This is their livelyhood, as well. Very impressive!
@@private8559Closed cell spray foam is considered a vapor barrier at about 1.5”. Shaving the skin off of it has nothing to do with it. Once you’ve shaved it, all the bubbles underneath are still closed and are what’s making the barrier.
We use oscillating tool for studs face then follow up with brand name super shear - to knock down high spots . Mike I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to share knowledge. I send potential customers to your channel for education for closed cell foam. Thank you Sir !!!
A few thoughts . . . Interesting tool. Looks a lot like the “surface conditioning tool” I got from Harbor Freight. The tool you show . . . WOW! They sure are proud of it. At least I see replacement drums are available; maybe those will fit my tool. The tool I have is quite heavy. I’m not sure I’d want to swing one around for long. Make it a two-man job - one grinds while the other vacuums.Definitely gives you an incentive to not over-foam! I’d probably make some sort of straight edge to help me identify the high spots. Why fill the cavity completely? The obvious reason is so you can make the most out of the space you have. The second, most important, is FIRE That is, to prevent a narrow vertical channel from becoming a chimney to spread a flame. Even the most “fire resistant” foams burn like rocket fuel. Forget your “hold a piece in front of a propane torch” demonstration. In the industry-standard ANSI E-84 (Steiner tunnel) test - where the material is laid over a trough and a strong breeze flows - the “fire proof” foam immediately falls to the bottom, where it burns with great gusto. I don’t want to create such a “tunnel” in my walls..
@@SprayJonesI had wondered the same breifly and had a feeling you have mentioned this before, but I didn't recall the rational. After a handful of search terms it seems to me that poly-iso will burn before it melts if I've not lost my mind? EPS melts at ~200°F whereas poly-iso is stable up to ~300°F and still doesn't melt but will burn away if your wire is hot enough, which is also in the temperature range that PVCs (Romex is a PVC) will melt or burn, so your not only going to release crazy toxic products of combustion but your liable to damage all sorts of things in the vicinity with a hot wire approach. Please correct anything I'm getting wrong.
I think one should have both - more tools are good. The RRC tool is "cutting" action, plus fits into tighter spots. I like the drum interchange as you can match what is needed for what you are doing. I suspect in time they will offer different cutting drums of various materials.
I also ask that all the wires are properly secured. Nothing worse than shaving foam and nicking a wire that has been pushed out from the foam expanding
So I ended up using a bit of spray foam between all my studs, filling the little gaps in to tighten it up as much as possible, but obviously the drywall guys are complaining that the drywall won't sit flush anymore. What do you recommend to shave off that spray foam between studs?
@SprayJones yeah I tried that, kind of annoying to use because it cuts into the framing wood as well. I really should have used acoustic seal or caulking I'm guessing 🤷🤦
We use a closed cell CI cutter fork sprayez. It’s heavy but works perfectly. However it creates an absolute mess. I avoid these jobs at all cost. The prep and cleanup is barely worth it. As someone above mentioned, do you cover this with anything after you cut to reform the vapor barrier once the skin is off? We typically are forced to by local code, in the form of a roll on paint+vapor barrier
The vapor barrier is NOT in the skin. The cell structure and density is the vapor barrier, the foam carries a perm rating based on thickness and type of substrate applied to. I have videos explaining this.
More [framing] space, please - wise observation. Now, more than ever, 2x4 exterior walls just won't cut it - and where tankless heaters are installed, maybe start with 2x8? Stuffing those in a thin wall means anything from being under-insulated to straight up thermal bridging. Tolerable in Florida maybe, but unwelcome in snow country. Speaking of which, foam advice/workarounds on tankless installs would be welcome [in case I missed it elsewhere].
We have seen amazing results in homes with 100% SPF and conventional framing. Thermal camera bears that out - there is a lot of mind blowing stuff to discuss. I don't have anything on tankless heaters - I leave a lot of that up to the locals to decide what is right and what will pass for them.
Nothing new about this tool. I worked 40 years ago in a factory that made reefer trailers. They used a tool like this to shave the spary foam insulation. It was actually way better than this thing as it was 16" wide
I have one of those, 16" wide with brushes, I mentioned in the video about the old timey power planers with blades and brushes. The concept of shaving foam is not new - how the tool is set up and what it can do is being showcased.
Way to go RRC tools! Knocking it out of the park! I am extended family to this family business and they are the epitome of "work smarter, not harder." This tool has saved them so much time and effort. So glad Spray Jones approves too! Congrats on all your innovations helping others get to "clean up and go home" faster! Loved the video, so much great information and demonstrations were clear. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and the feedback. I agree.
I personally have seen this item in use and know the family that's created it. As a non-spray foamer, watching from the sidelines, I am so impressed. It's easier on your body, and while there are multiple small bits to clean up, a broom works well before a vacuum. This family is absolutely dedicated to making this product work for the spray foam world! This is their livelyhood, as well. Very impressive!
Agreed. And many more inventions to come. It is the American way - invent product and change the world.
Once you shave the skin off the foam you need a vapor barrier.
@@private8559Closed cell spray foam is considered a vapor barrier at about 1.5”. Shaving the skin off of it has nothing to do with it. Once you’ve shaved it, all the bubbles underneath are still closed and are what’s making the barrier.
@@private8559 The skin has nothing to do with it. Closed cell foam is a vapor barrier at 1.5” thickness.
We use oscillating tool for studs face then follow up with brand name super shear - to knock down high spots .
Mike I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to share knowledge. I send potential customers to your channel for education for closed cell foam.
Thank you Sir !!!
Wait until you see what we are building and launching in 2025. Huge game-changer.
Thankfully four your very good videos… happy holidays from Sweden 🤝
Happy new year
@@SprayJones 🍻
Looks great!
Thank you! I hope it helps you!
A few thoughts . . .
Interesting tool. Looks a lot like the “surface conditioning tool” I got from Harbor Freight.
The tool you show . . . WOW! They sure are proud of it. At least I see replacement drums are available; maybe those will fit my tool.
The tool I have is quite heavy. I’m not sure I’d want to swing one around for long. Make it a two-man job - one grinds while the other vacuums.Definitely gives you an incentive to not over-foam!
I’d probably make some sort of straight edge to help me identify the high spots.
Why fill the cavity completely? The obvious reason is so you can make the most out of the space you have. The second, most important, is FIRE That is, to prevent a narrow vertical channel from becoming a chimney to spread a flame. Even the most “fire resistant” foams burn like rocket fuel. Forget your “hold a piece in front of a propane torch” demonstration. In the industry-standard ANSI E-84 (Steiner tunnel) test - where the material is laid over a trough and a strong breeze flows - the “fire proof” foam immediately falls to the bottom, where it burns with great gusto. I don’t want to create such a “tunnel” in my walls..
Thanks for watching
Nice video! Thanks for the vid and opinion.
I've been using a small Bauer grinder with wire wheels but this seems a lot better!
I think so. I provided a link to them in description box.
Thanks for that.
I wonder if they have any plans to create a vacuum attachment to help mitigate some of the clean up.
I think so..
Copy that, valuable info. .. Happy Holidays from 8,150ft elevation; Colorado.
Good to hear from a fellow SPF lover!
First of all a very good video, the problem is to collect all the ground foam, We have to use a high-volume vacuum cleaner
Yes, I think that having a bracket on the grinder for the vacuum line would be a great addition.
This seems to be a job for a hot wire foam cutter. Do they make anything like that?
Hot wire is for EPS and only works for thermal plastics. This is a thermal set and will NOT become liquid again.
@@SprayJonesI had wondered the same breifly and had a feeling you have mentioned this before, but I didn't recall the rational. After a handful of search terms it seems to me that poly-iso will burn before it melts if I've not lost my mind?
EPS melts at ~200°F whereas poly-iso is stable up to ~300°F and still doesn't melt but will burn away if your wire is hot enough, which is also in the temperature range that PVCs (Romex is a PVC) will melt or burn, so your not only going to release crazy toxic products of combustion but your liable to damage all sorts of things in the vicinity with a hot wire approach.
Please correct anything I'm getting wrong.
What’s you thought on the ci cutters? They shave larger surfaces.
Didn’t know if you had a comparison between this and the CI cutters?
I think one should have both - more tools are good. The RRC tool is "cutting" action, plus fits into tighter spots. I like the drum interchange as you can match what is needed for what you are doing. I suspect in time they will offer different cutting drums of various materials.
love it but no ppe with foam dust
Grab a mask
I also ask that all the wires are properly secured. Nothing worse than shaving foam and nicking a wire that has been pushed out from the foam expanding
Are you familiar with Schmit and Dirks Designs Inc and their CI cutter to shave foam? If so what are your thoughts? thanks
So I ended up using a bit of spray foam between all my studs, filling the little gaps in to tighten it up as much as possible, but obviously the drywall guys are complaining that the drywall won't sit flush anymore. What do you recommend to shave off that spray foam between studs?
A knife...
@SprayJones yeah I tried that, kind of annoying to use because it cuts into the framing wood as well. I really should have used acoustic seal or caulking I'm guessing 🤷🤦
I have a scrubber for open cell but it's heavy and needs oil for the chain drive. DO you think this tool could be beneficial for open cell?
Yes it will work. Chat directly with RRC and they can help.
We use a closed cell CI cutter fork sprayez. It’s heavy but works perfectly. However it creates an absolute mess. I avoid these jobs at all cost. The prep and cleanup is barely worth it. As someone above mentioned, do you cover this with anything after you cut to reform the vapor barrier once the skin is off? We typically are forced to by local code, in the form of a roll on paint+vapor barrier
The vapor barrier is NOT in the skin. The cell structure and density is the vapor barrier, the foam carries a perm rating based on thickness and type of substrate applied to. I have videos explaining this.
More [framing] space, please - wise observation. Now, more than ever, 2x4 exterior walls just won't cut it - and where tankless heaters are installed, maybe start with 2x8? Stuffing those in a thin wall means anything from being under-insulated to straight up thermal bridging. Tolerable in Florida maybe, but unwelcome in snow country. Speaking of which, foam advice/workarounds on tankless installs would be welcome [in case I missed it elsewhere].
We have seen amazing results in homes with 100% SPF and conventional framing. Thermal camera bears that out - there is a lot of mind blowing stuff to discuss.
I don't have anything on tankless heaters - I leave a lot of that up to the locals to decide what is right and what will pass for them.
All that micro plastic in the environment 😝
Not micro plastic
Nothing new about this tool. I worked 40 years ago in a factory that made reefer trailers. They used a tool like this to shave the spary foam insulation. It was actually way better than this thing as it was 16" wide
I have one of those, 16" wide with brushes, I mentioned in the video about the old timey power planers with blades and brushes. The concept of shaving foam is not new - how the tool is set up and what it can do is being showcased.
@SprayJones The one that I used back in those days had a rotary type blade like an old push lawnmower. It worked awesome
@@CTX50 QuikPlane? I use one almost daily, trimming repaired trailers. They do a good job.
@@MerryVulture I don't recall the brand name. 40 years is a long time ago. Lol.
That looks terrible to clean up and to use. I rather just take a bit longer spraying and not make such a big over spray mess.
You haven't sprayed much...