Lipo above 1v are normally perfectly fine. It does hurt the total capacity so not something to do every day. Just slow charge them (EG 0.1c) to about 3v and then leave them on their own for a few days, if the cell is bad it will self discharge back to low voltage, if it's ok it will hold its voltage and you can now test it's capacity and see if it's worth keeping.
Really appreciate your video. Subscribed to your channel as well. You are the only one out there who showed the performance of the module with "Load ON / Charging / Battery on / Battery off".
Nice video, thank you for the detailed test! These modules are designed to protect the battery from over-discharge and over-current, by automatically disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery from the load. The over-discharge protection will be triggered slightly above 2.5/2.6 volts, and the over-current protection will limit the maximum current at around 3 amperes. I would not recommend charging the battery with the load connected, since the charger will not be able to detect the current drop (because the load is drawing some current) and you may overcharge the battery, with very undesirable results.
At 2:30 Some 'dead' lithium cells are easily brought back to life using a 500ma USB charger and stripped usb cable. Using a multimeter and tape, connect the cell to the stripped usb cable and multimeter to monitor voltage. Then plug the USB cable into the power source. Watch voltage climb back to around 3.2v or so which should be enough for a standard lithium charger(or a devices internal charger) to recognise the cell. Depending on cell size, this may only take 30 seconds, maybe a minute or two. Monitor for temperature or swelling. I've revived several cells safely, and even camera battery packs left in storage too long. Most notable being a Gopro battery registering 0.2V. 30-40 seconds of usb charge got it recognised by the camera again. Has been working almost as well as new for months now. Obviously do this OUTSIDE on a concrete floor, or in a metal baking dish or something, but so far due to the low current USB source, I've not even had a battery warm up enough to even notice.
I did this with all the cells from a laptop pack and the one that measured sub-3v started slow-charging fine and then all the sudden after about an hour, started heating up REALLY fast. I was monitoring it closely so I was able to take it off charge right away and chucked it into the freezer to cool it off, but I have no doubt it would've at least vented-out if I had left it on charge. The rest of the cells were all above 3v and recovered no problems even though they'd been sitting around 3v for 5 or 6 years if not more.
I know I'm a little late to the conversation, but that battery(12:37) was at it's safe storage voltage. lithium batteries last a long time when stored at their safe storage voltage.
Good testing procedure amigo.. Because of hi current in certain tests, I use to "repair" or re-make all my alligator clips wire ends by applying some solder on the crimped area of them. Good and thick wires for testing leads is also important. If you put your volt meter across a leads' ends sometimes you will get a significant voltage drop in the lead itself especially when a hi amperage is passing through it. I try using short test leads as well. Thanks for the video.
there is no overvoltage protection, just OVERCHARGE, as you dont need to stop against very high voltage battery as it never happens beacuse the overcharge circuit stops it from going above 4.2V
actually this is bad. it has battery protection but there's no protection for the in/out. If there's no battery it will send everything to the in/out and potentially damage whatever is connected there. I've damaged a few 5v buck converters when the battery was disconnected.
These things are great! I recently picked some up and love them. I plan on using one with a solar panel to charge it. The panel has a V_oc of ~7 volts, so I was worried I’d have to put a diode on it to drop it down, but that was not the case. It can handle 7 volts at low current without getting too warm, which in my set up and my wimpy panel, it will only go up to that high when the load is low, aka the battery is full. It also isolates the the input from the battery so no back flow prevention is needed to keep the battery from discharging into the panel overnight. Neat little things. One thing on here, when you were testing the short circuit, these have a short circuit protection that kicks in above 3 amps, so when you were using the 1 ohm resistor, it was drawing 2.5 A (due to voltage drop of the battery because of its internal resistance), then when you shorted the leads it was able to go past the 3 amp because the resistance was probably in the micro-milli ohm range. I think you said it was 22 gauge, and 22 gauge at 1 foot gives 16 milli ohms. So less than that probably.
Rafael M Martinez yes, just be aware that the output voltage is whatever the battery voltage is. So you will either want to use a boost converter to boost the voltage to 5 volts, and feed that into the 5 volt pin of the esp 8266, or a buck converter to step it down to 3.3 volts, and feed that into the 3.3 volt pin of the esp 8266. These are handy and great little battery chargers.
Personally, I’d boost it up to 5 volts. Might seem like a loss because then you are boosting it up just to have the onboard regulator step it down to the 3.3, but if you use a buck converter, once the battery voltage drops to say 3.6 volts, the output voltage will no longer be a stable 3.3 volts... and you will have to recharge it. If you boost it, it will go all the way down to 2.5 volts before this board shuts off the output, so longer before you have to recharge the battery. Or, get a buck/boost converter, and have its output set to 3.3 volts and feed that to the 3.3 volt pin on the esp 8266.
Bit late but will see if this is read. I'm building one integrated into a design using TP4056, DW01a and 8205. All the posts I have read is that you can not charge while still under load. It effects the current monitoring of the TP4056. So need to either unplug the load or use a Mosfet, diode and resistor to automatically disconnect the load when charging.
I am sitting here using those boards to make custom solar lights for the decks around our house and the first video that comes up in my list is your's and i didnt search or google the circuit or anything. haha. you are right about soldering. i learned from wiring guitars but i bought cheap chinese smd kits to learn how to repair electronics and cad up boards i etch at home. what's your preferred software for designing boards? i'm testing out one of my new laser diodes and tbh havent used a proper piece of software in well over a year and the ui for kicad and easyeda look different now. i no longer have custom libraries saved for common parts. i've used either flexible smd/tht protoboard (i forget the brand but they sell it everywhere) or fr4 and a dremel the last while haha.
Those modules are good, they will handle short circuit, saved me a couple of times. That cell that is below threshold, just temporarily out it in parallel with a charged cell to bring it up to 3+ volts and seal it in food wrap before putting it in a ziplock bag to protect against moisture, freeze for 24 hours then sit for 8-10 hours to bring to room temperature and you should get a longer life from it. Also on DC your clamp Meter should be on the positive lead.
This chip with the DW01 causes a parasitic drain on the batteries. I have purchased 15 chips from 3 different vendors but regardless; every chip if left connected while not charging; has drained the battery down to 0.73V I have lost more in batteries than I have spent on the TP4056 modules. Do not buy this chip.
I just bought some of these and have yet to get them working... Seems they work so long as I don't use the USB-C port, which kinda defeats the purpose of what I wanted it for... I saw a video explaining that the charging needs to be "unlocked" and have no clue what that means... Any chance you know what is wrong with the usb c ones? Edit: Got an idea shortly after I messaged; seems that the module doesn't work with the USB-C PD. It works with the USB-A to USB-C connection.
Honestly. I've never had a big problem with old batteries. I have a charger that will put them through a load test and charge them. It tells me what their capacity is and has thermal protection.
Great content, subscribed :) I've been thinking of getting my feet wet with Lithium-ion batteries. Would you be willing to provide some pointers on where to start? I'm concerned with buying online 18650s. I plan on making a replacement battery/charger setup for my Nintendo DS Lite. I have a couple of powerbanks at home and was planning to splice out some type-A cables isolating their GND and VCC lines then hooking them up to a TP4056 3.7V as the B+/B- input then hook up the output to the DS. That's the initial plan anyway and it mostly comes from fear and thinking of safety. Your video made me consider buying some 18650s cells online and hooking them up directly to the TP4056 3.7V. Or I could get a buck converter to step down the 5V line of the powerbank to 3.7V then wire the buck converter to the inputs of the DS Lite. Which route do you think I should take on with this project? Thank you so much and looking forward to more content from you soon!
Nice video. However, I think, the overcharge protection works when there is power in the input. It cuts the charging when the battery voltage reaches 4.2 volts. But, didn't try the output
Will these boards allow me to do a form of pass-thru charging? So could I use this to power an led light, and charge the battery, then, if the battery is charged will it just pull from the USB? Sorry if this is worded poorly I'm not too familiar with electronics, I really just fix things when they're broken!
Great video mate - what is the brand of the connectors used to connect your series resistors and where did you purchase them, please? Cheers from Down Under.
I have the right one. With s ome batteries that are shady , the module, right away displays a small blue (or red, cant remember which) led when you plug it in to charge. The last ion cell had a stable voltage of 0.86 volts. Is the small blue led a signal that the voltage is too low too charge or that there is a short in the cell?
@@interruptedz You can use the same module for charging two batteries but you need to buy the version without battery protection and buy it separately for each battery you are going to connect in parallel to the module, you can buy those battery protection circuit with DW01 ICs. But the downside to this method is it's gonna take a longer time to charge since the TP4056 IC only outputs 1A maximum charge current. So it would be best if you buy one for each battery you need to charge ( 1:1) and connect the modules in parallel. Note: Just make sure that your wall charger can output as much power needed for the modules. If your gonna connect 2 in parallel, your charger needs to have a rating of 5v 2A (10watts) or more. The alternative module for this if you want faster charging are those charging modules with IP2312 ICs, those can deliver up to 3A of charge current, but you still need to buy one battery protection circuit for each battery in parallel.
How much load current can deliver this chip? I have modified an old cordless screwdriver with a single Li-ion cell and since i can't find a BMS that can stand the 6A max load of the motor someone suggested to buy this chip. But I don't think that is suitable for this job....
Nobody says that TP4056 literally cooks while charging at 1 amp. It gets scarily hot as it's a linear circuit. The chip is burning up all the extra energy.
its a wonder you didnt end up with a crispy critter. load vs charge . load pulling more then what the charge can supply would be a struggle and cause a great deal of heat. pushing that little guy to his max. I also found it gratifying to know the module can be charged on load but I would take caution
Sir I am an aspiring electronics technician, I'm not that well profecient to this Modules could i ask if the other one (TP4056 without an output voltage can be still used directly to supply a component (wire connecting to battery will have a same wire connected to component to be supplied , ex amplifier, bluetooth speaker) or i will must prefer other TP4056 with V-:V+ Output? Thank you sir, best regards. God bless you.
You start by saying this board is not applicable to battery packs. Why not? The board is so cheap you could use one board for each cell in the pack. This would provide over-discharge protection and balanced charging while eliminating the need for a BMS board.
You could use them in a pack but you would have to charge them from totally isolated supplies, since if you tired to charge them using wall-plugged USB chargers, the grounds would be all commoned together and short all the cells but the first one - resulting in fire
That means the battery is fully charged, the red LED means the module is trying to charge it and it immediately sees it is full and so turns on the blue light
im not great with circuitry, I was hoping you or someone here could help me. I have one of these usb c modules, same layout as one as used in video and a 18650 battery. now I understand how to wire this to the battery to get it to charge, but how do I add the rest of the circuit? say I also have a switch, a light and a voltage booster. I can make what I want work without this charging module but I dont know what wires would go where when introducing the module to the circuit. if thats clear. would you be able to explain (in simple terms) which wires id put in which holes please? for example, the output wires right next to where the battery connects to mdoule, the ones used in this video to do the tests, am I right in thinking they are the poss and neg wires of the battery I'd simply connect to my circuit as if the charging module wasnt there? thats my current hypothesis. or do I need to put any wires coming from the switch and booster into the holes on either side the usbC port? this doesnt seem right to me, but I dont know enough to be sure. thanks in advance
Yup, use the ones i used for this test, they are the protected output of the module - so if you draw too much current or the voltage on your batteries drops too low, the module will shut it off until you recharge your batteries
Any ideas on how to use this with an inverter? Looking for ideas on how to replace my generator. I already have a transfer switch installed in the house.
excellent video, i was wondering if its safe to have a load connected and charge at the same time but you proved that it is ok with 2 ammeters. Now i am wondering if it is ok to have a load and charge at the same time when using a TP4056 module without protection with LiPo battery that has built in protection. Will that be the same result? just the protection moved from module to the battery?
Spring terminals! This affiliate link should find you some! ebay.us/ZmJDGs and I haven't tested a lot of those current sensors but generally speaking, they should be just fine - same principle as an inductive clamp meter!
@@SimpleElectronics that's what I thought so the battery will be garbage basically unless I change the resister to not output 1000 mAh current to my understanding
What if you have a device that draws more than 3A from the cell (or 2, 3 cells in parallel for more capacity). Anything with a large motor for example. It will keep cutting out.
Question, I can’t find any data on the output of the TP4056 and I don’t mean charging output. If the battery was not charging and the load was drawing power from it would the TP4056 interfere at all? So if I had a 3.7v 2000mah being used to power led that are drawing 1500mah, would the TP4056 limit the draw to only 100mah?
Asking for a friend...let's say I have 3 of these and I need to power a 12v Bluetooth speaker and I don't want to wait 2 years for a 3s board to come from china, could the outputs on these be wired in series to achieve 12v and wire the input in a way that charges only 5v?
I believe they could but BUT only in ONE situation....all of the grounds are wired together to the ground of the usb on the boards, so if you used a different battery/battery bank on each of the modules, I think it could work...but as soon as you have two of the boards on the same battery, or on a regular usb power plug or in a computer, it's over, it will short....basically, if you are uncomfortable with these statements, don't even try it!
Yes and no. You would have to charge them individually, or use a completely isolated charger to charge them (aka use two different powerbanks to charge them) if not, you risk shorting the batteries. I would recommend a 2S BMS board instead
can you suggest some to get a pi w2 @ 5 with 2.8 inch screen i was needing to power and charge 2 2000 mah batteries and i am confused serial or parallel
@@SimpleElectronics You mentioned that the one with the mini USB has no protection circuit whereas the microUSB board does. So it's not an issue to have a protected battery on the board with protection circuitry? Effectively having double protection I assume.
@J Anything Oops I confused mini with micro. You can still use them yes, but less than ideal, but nothing terrible; just losing some voltage by passing through two MOSFets
@@tomasfernandezcomparini761 You can do this, there's loads of videos of people making huge charging boards using lots of these tp4056 modules in parallel. What you can't do is use three of them on a 3s pack, as I learned the hard way.
as long as they are all at the same voltage when you parallel them it should be fine, but it will take forever and a day to charge. I would recommend ordering a 10-pack of these boards from ebay or amazon.
Lithium-ion batteries are damaged if they discharge below 2.5v....they can potentially explode while recharging if you aren't extra careful with these cells
@@SimpleElectronics - The low voltage cells aren't damaged to the degree that you imply. While the cell's overall performance may be slightly decreased, it's perfectly fine to SLOWLY charge lithium ion cells that are below 2.5V. I've been successful with cells as low as 0.05V. Look at the spec sheet for how to lower the TP4056 charging current. Pin 2 resistor to ground is how you adjust the current. I use a 10k pot with a 1K resistor in series, thus giving me a range from 1 Kohms up to 11 Kohms depending on the pot's setting. This allows me to vary the current from about 50mA up to 1000mA. I add a voltmeter to keep an eye on things. Just set the current to 50mA (pot set to 10Kohms) and watch the voltage slowly rise over the course of an hour. Periodically feel the cell to see if it's getting warm. If it gets hot, remove it from the charger and recycle it. If the cell is taking a charge and not hot, then bump the current up to 100mA and watch the voltage rise a little faster. When the voltage reaches approximately 2.90V the TP4056 will automatically exit "trickle charge" mode and the current will increase to the setting determined by the TP4056 pin 2 resistor. Let it charge up to 4.00V, periodically checking if the cell is getting hot. Then discharge to about 3.30V and charge to 4.00V a few times. If that goes well, bring it all the way up to 4.20Volts. After the above cycling process, let the cell sit for a week (or two) to verify that it isn't self discharging. If the fully charged (4.20V) cell falls below 4.05V after a week of sitting, it will likely continue that trend. Label it as "slowly self discharging" and keep it separate from your good cells. It's still usable, but it will slowly discharge any other cells that are wired in parallel with it. Most of the time (>95%) I can revive low voltage cells without any issues. Go slow, use low current, watch the temperature, and cycle it from 4.00V to 3.30V a few times, check for self discharge, and then you'll be fine.
@@invictusfarmer7188 Im literally using a smartphone charger for two of the protected boards soldered in parallel. So I put the usb cable in one and both get powered. The charger is not a cheapo one though it was from my oneplus X. I mean it depends on how many of those charger boards you are running but a 60 amp psu seems very overkill. When u say you are running 4.7v, is that what gets put into the chargerboards or what the chargerboards put into the batteries?
@@NickDerMitHut yeah the power supply puts out 4.72 volts when i adjust down the voltage regulator. tp4056 ar 4.5-5.5 volts i believe. less voltage less heat supposedly. but yeah my supply would be over kill for 2 holders but im currently up to 40 of them lol. it draws about 40 amps when full of batteries.
@@SimpleElectronics also try the output current, I tried to power the pi3 with a mt3608 boost module but pi shutdown in the middle off booting. I don't have test equipment to test it, so please test and make video,that will be really helpful. Also I am ordering some tp5100 modules see if that can solve it.
so i got 3 of these boards for some batteries i ripped off from old laptop batteries and when i use a 1 amp usb adapterto charge it tends to work fine but when i switched to a quickcharge adapter(abt 3A max output) the board heats up to a point where i cant touch it..anyone else having these issues?
iirc, quick charge can increase voltage too! Check your voltage! I understand that the higher voltage should be negotiated by the device but we all know not all devices comply with standards!
@@SimpleElectronics so i just checked it and it stayed at 5v.used a battery that was like 85%full and the board is slightly warm then i switched it out to a depleted battery and it heated to a point where i felt unsafe and dangerous within 10 seconds but the input voltage was still 5v
@@SimpleElectronics -- This is why some charger modules expose the thermistor pin on the charge control chip (to access a battery's thermistor wire -- if it has one!)
@@moamelabdullah7810 if you look up powerbank circuits, you can buy some where all you need it to add a battery - it does charging, discharging, 5v regulation, all of it for you. Like this one: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9GnQid
You get what you pay for with wire strippers. I'm after the wife for a a knipex one because it's the style I like and I keep paying for 25 dollar chi ese ones that fail
thankyou for this! very dumb noobie question... i got some of the chip recommended for unprotected cells... and i'm very much assuming they cannot be used to charge the recovered cells from thrown disposable ecgis? Using them to then run LEDS or a simple motor.
Hi, 1. at 13:12 the current is 0.310A at voltage 3.7V or 3.479V, how come the load is 6ohm where R=V/I which is 3.479/0.310 roughly 11.X ohm instead, what's happened ?
@@SimpleElectronics , thank you for the feedback, so TP4056 can works on protective cell right ? as I firstly I saw the mesage "Yes..." later disappeared. Actually I have one pair of protective Panasonic Original NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAH so wonder it can still be used with TP4056.
Search for tp4056 on ebay and you'll see two types; one with just the tp4056 on it and one with an extra chip on it. The extra chip IS the cell protection. So if you have a protected cell, you buy the modules without the protection chip, if you have unprotected cells, you buy the modules with the protection chip
How many cells in your vape? You cannot use this module to balance charge....but it was my understanding that most vapes only have single cells, and therefore do not require balancing
Lipo above 1v are normally perfectly fine. It does hurt the total capacity so not something to do every day. Just slow charge them (EG 0.1c) to about 3v and then leave them on their own for a few days, if the cell is bad it will self discharge back to low voltage, if it's ok it will hold its voltage and you can now test it's capacity and see if it's worth keeping.
Really appreciate your video. Subscribed to your channel as well. You are the only one out there who showed the performance of the module with "Load ON / Charging / Battery on / Battery off".
Thanks for watching and welcome to the channel!
Nice video, thank you for the detailed test! These modules are designed to protect the battery from over-discharge and over-current, by automatically disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery from the load. The over-discharge protection will be triggered slightly above 2.5/2.6 volts, and the over-current protection will limit the maximum current at around 3 amperes. I would not recommend charging the battery with the load connected, since the charger will not be able to detect the current drop (because the load is drawing some current) and you may overcharge the battery, with very undesirable results.
Is there any problem charging 2 3000mah batteries in parallel with single tp4056 board ?
You can also change the resistor between pin 2 and ground of the tp4056 chip to change the charging current.
May I know which one is it exactly? Is it R1 or R2?
And what is the default current for the charging module?
@@hkphang2825 default is 1A Charging
At 2:30 Some 'dead' lithium cells are easily brought back to life using a 500ma USB charger and stripped usb cable. Using a multimeter and tape, connect the cell to the stripped usb cable and multimeter to monitor voltage. Then plug the USB cable into the power source. Watch voltage climb back to around 3.2v or so which should be enough for a standard lithium charger(or a devices internal charger) to recognise the cell. Depending on cell size, this may only take 30 seconds, maybe a minute or two. Monitor for temperature or swelling.
I've revived several cells safely, and even camera battery packs left in storage too long. Most notable being a Gopro battery registering 0.2V. 30-40 seconds of usb charge got it recognised by the camera again. Has been working almost as well as new for months now.
Obviously do this OUTSIDE on a concrete floor, or in a metal baking dish or something, but so far due to the low current USB source, I've not even had a battery warm up enough to even notice.
And I recommend trickle charging with a very low current, 5 - 25 mA.
I did this with all the cells from a laptop pack and the one that measured sub-3v started slow-charging fine and then all the sudden after about an hour, started heating up REALLY fast. I was monitoring it closely so I was able to take it off charge right away and chucked it into the freezer to cool it off, but I have no doubt it would've at least vented-out if I had left it on charge. The rest of the cells were all above 3v and recovered no problems even though they'd been sitting around 3v for 5 or 6 years if not more.
I know I'm a little late to the conversation, but that battery(12:37) was at it's safe storage voltage. lithium batteries last a long time when stored at their safe storage voltage.
Good testing procedure amigo.. Because of hi current in certain tests, I use to "repair" or re-make all my alligator clips wire ends by applying some solder on the crimped area of them. Good and thick wires for testing leads is also important. If you put your volt meter across a leads' ends sometimes you will get a significant voltage drop in the lead itself especially when a hi amperage is passing through it. I try using short test leads as well. Thanks for the video.
there is no overvoltage protection, just OVERCHARGE, as you dont need to stop against very high voltage battery as it never happens beacuse the overcharge circuit stops it from going above 4.2V
Exactly!
actually this is bad. it has battery protection but there's no protection for the in/out. If there's no battery it will send everything to the in/out and potentially damage whatever is connected there. I've damaged a few 5v buck converters when the battery was disconnected.
These things are great! I recently picked some up and love them. I plan on using one with a solar panel to charge it. The panel has a V_oc of ~7 volts, so I was worried I’d have to put a diode on it to drop it down, but that was not the case. It can handle 7 volts at low current without getting too warm, which in my set up and my wimpy panel, it will only go up to that high when the load is low, aka the battery is full. It also isolates the the input from the battery so no back flow prevention is needed to keep the battery from discharging into the panel overnight. Neat little things.
One thing on here, when you were testing the short circuit, these have a short circuit protection that kicks in above 3 amps, so when you were using the 1 ohm resistor, it was drawing 2.5 A (due to voltage drop of the battery because of its internal resistance), then when you shorted the leads it was able to go past the 3 amp because the resistance was probably in the micro-milli ohm range. I think you said it was 22 gauge, and 22 gauge at 1 foot gives 16 milli ohms. So less than that probably.
I'm a newbie in this, so I'm concerned about security. Can I use this for an esp8622? Should be safe right?
With a Lipo?
Rafael M Martinez yes, just be aware that the output voltage is whatever the battery voltage is. So you will either want to use a boost converter to boost the voltage to 5 volts, and feed that into the 5 volt pin of the esp 8266, or a buck converter to step it down to 3.3 volts, and feed that into the 3.3 volt pin of the esp 8266. These are handy and great little battery chargers.
Personally, I’d boost it up to 5 volts. Might seem like a loss because then you are boosting it up just to have the onboard regulator step it down to the 3.3, but if you use a buck converter, once the battery voltage drops to say 3.6 volts, the output voltage will no longer be a stable 3.3 volts... and you will have to recharge it. If you boost it, it will go all the way down to 2.5 volts before this board shuts off the output, so longer before you have to recharge the battery. Or, get a buck/boost converter, and have its output set to 3.3 volts and feed that to the 3.3 volt pin on the esp 8266.
Use a lm 317 and make a variable voltage regulator instead of diode dropping
Nice video. I love the TP4056 module with protection. I've been using them in allot of my projects and vids. Well done.
Im so bad at soldering thanks for those encouraging words. 😁
It's all practice and you get to keep your experience for life!
I learned something new and different today....thank you for the details in the video !! :)
Bit late but will see if this is read. I'm building one integrated into a design using TP4056, DW01a and 8205. All the posts I have read is that you can not charge while still under load. It effects the current monitoring of the TP4056. So need to either unplug the load or use a Mosfet, diode and resistor to automatically disconnect the load when charging.
I am sitting here using those boards to make custom solar lights for the decks around our house and the first video that comes up in my list is your's and i didnt search or google the circuit or anything. haha.
you are right about soldering. i learned from wiring guitars but i bought cheap chinese smd kits to learn how to repair electronics and cad up boards i etch at home. what's your preferred software for designing boards? i'm testing out one of my new laser diodes and tbh havent used a proper piece of software in well over a year and the ui for kicad and easyeda look different now. i no longer have custom libraries saved for common parts. i've used either flexible smd/tht protoboard (i forget the brand but they sell it everywhere) or fr4 and a dremel the last while haha.
Go for it! Test that battery! We love explosions! ⚡⚡
Those modules are good, they will handle short circuit, saved me a couple of times. That cell that is below threshold, just temporarily out it in parallel with a charged cell to bring it up to 3+ volts and seal it in food wrap before putting it in a ziplock bag to protect against moisture, freeze for 24 hours then sit for 8-10 hours to bring to room temperature and you should get a longer life from it. Also on DC your clamp Meter should be on the positive lead.
This chip with the DW01 causes a parasitic drain on the batteries. I have purchased 15 chips from 3 different vendors but regardless; every chip if left connected while not charging; has drained the battery down to 0.73V I have lost more in batteries than I have spent on the TP4056 modules. Do not buy this chip.
very curious on how you came up with this idea. never heard this before but you peaked my interest
I just bought some of these and have yet to get them working... Seems they work so long as I don't use the USB-C port, which kinda defeats the purpose of what I wanted it for... I saw a video explaining that the charging needs to be "unlocked" and have no clue what that means... Any chance you know what is wrong with the usb c ones?
Edit: Got an idea shortly after I messaged; seems that the module doesn't work with the USB-C PD. It works with the USB-A to USB-C connection.
Honestly. I've never had a big problem with old batteries. I have a charger that will put them through a load test and charge them. It tells me what their capacity is and has thermal protection.
Do you mind telling me what model that charger is? Sounds like a really awesome thing to have on my bench.
Like that Dollar Tree knife pointer!
Excelent vidio my friend, Doing simples steps, is how we can learn. Thanks your for your effort
Great content, subscribed :)
I've been thinking of getting my feet wet with Lithium-ion batteries. Would you be willing to provide some pointers on where to start? I'm concerned with buying online 18650s. I plan on making a replacement battery/charger setup for my Nintendo DS Lite. I have a couple of powerbanks at home and was planning to splice out some type-A cables isolating their GND and VCC lines then hooking them up to a TP4056 3.7V as the B+/B- input then hook up the output to the DS.
That's the initial plan anyway and it mostly comes from fear and thinking of safety. Your video made me consider buying some 18650s cells online and hooking them up directly to the TP4056 3.7V. Or I could get a buck converter to step down the 5V line of the powerbank to 3.7V then wire the buck converter to the inputs of the DS Lite. Which route do you think I should take on with this project? Thank you so much and looking forward to more content from you soon!
Nice video. However, I think, the overcharge protection works when there is power in the input. It cuts the charging when the battery voltage reaches 4.2 volts. But, didn't try the output
I agree. It should cut off charging when the voltage is too high.
Moral of the story: Always use protection
If only the many Chinese BMS/balance boards out there worked as well
Good Video! Could one still make a battery pack in series (such as 4x to make 12-16V) and wire the ends similar to that of a BMS? Thanks
Yes, but for that I've used the IP2368 board and a separate BMS.
No probleme if you connect B+ with out+ because it's the same .
Will these boards allow me to do a form of pass-thru charging? So could I use this to power an led light, and charge the battery, then, if the battery is charged will it just pull from the USB? Sorry if this is worded poorly I'm not too familiar with electronics, I really just fix things when they're broken!
Yup that should work!
Great video mate - what is the brand of the connectors used to connect your series resistors and where did you purchase them, please? Cheers from Down Under.
They are spring terminals! This affiliate link should find you some! ebay.us/ZmJDGs
I have the right one. With s ome batteries that are shady , the module, right away displays a small blue (or red, cant remember which) led when you plug it in to charge. The last ion cell had a stable voltage of 0.86 volts. Is the small blue led a signal that the voltage is too low too charge or that there is a short in the cell?
The blue LED shows you that the module isn't charging so it is likely refusing to charge it.
the TP4056 is capable of charging a cell that's at 1.8v, just keep in mind that it's just a single cell and not 2 or more cells in parallel
What module to use if its a pack in parallel
@@interruptedz You can use the same module for charging two batteries but you need to buy the version without battery protection and buy it separately for each battery you are going to connect in parallel to the module, you can buy those battery protection circuit with DW01 ICs.
But the downside to this method is it's gonna take a longer time to charge since the TP4056 IC only outputs 1A maximum charge current.
So it would be best if you buy one for each battery you need to charge ( 1:1) and connect the modules in parallel. Note: Just make sure that your wall charger can output as much power needed for the modules. If your gonna connect 2 in parallel, your charger needs to have a rating of 5v 2A (10watts) or more.
The alternative module for this if you want faster charging are those charging modules with IP2312 ICs, those can deliver up to 3A of charge current, but you still need to buy one battery protection circuit for each battery in parallel.
@@ianrafaeltoh7679 thank you for taking time to answer my query
@@interruptedz No probs :)
If the battery voltage is too high, I believe you shouldn’t be able to charge it, but you should be able to drain it.
How much load current can deliver this chip? I have modified an old cordless screwdriver with a single Li-ion cell and since i can't find a BMS that can stand the 6A max load of the motor someone suggested to buy this chip. But I don't think that is suitable for this job....
I'm not sure but I doubt it's more than a couple amps - perhaps I should test it!
Nobody says that TP4056 literally cooks while charging at 1 amp. It gets scarily hot as it's a linear circuit. The chip is burning up all the extra energy.
its a wonder you didnt end up with a crispy critter. load vs charge . load pulling more then what the charge can supply would be a struggle and cause a great deal of heat. pushing that little guy to his max. I also found it gratifying to know the module can be charged on load but I would take caution
Sir I am an aspiring electronics technician, I'm not that well profecient to this Modules could i ask if the other one (TP4056 without an output voltage can be still used directly to supply a component (wire connecting to battery will have a same wire connected to component to be supplied , ex amplifier, bluetooth speaker) or i will must prefer other TP4056 with V-:V+ Output? Thank you sir, best regards. God bless you.
You start by saying this board is not applicable to battery packs. Why not? The board is so cheap you could use one board for each cell in the pack. This would provide over-discharge protection and balanced charging while eliminating the need for a BMS board.
You could use them in a pack but you would have to charge them from totally isolated supplies, since if you tired to charge them using wall-plugged USB chargers, the grounds would be all commoned together and short all the cells but the first one - resulting in fire
Thank you for your sacrifice.
Lol! and I havent even watched the vid yet/
what does it mean when the big led is blue right away and ther is a very small led blinking when you have connected the cell and plug it in?
That means the battery is fully charged, the red LED means the module is trying to charge it and it immediately sees it is full and so turns on the blue light
im not great with circuitry, I was hoping you or someone here could help me.
I have one of these usb c modules, same layout as one as used in video and a 18650 battery.
now I understand how to wire this to the battery to get it to charge, but how do I add the rest of the circuit?
say I also have a switch, a light and a voltage booster.
I can make what I want work without this charging module but I dont know what wires would go where when introducing the module to the circuit.
if thats clear. would you be able to explain (in simple terms) which wires id put in which holes please?
for example, the output wires right next to where the battery connects to mdoule, the ones used in this video to do the tests, am I right in thinking they are the poss and neg wires of the battery I'd simply connect to my circuit as if the charging module wasnt there?
thats my current hypothesis.
or do I need to put any wires coming from the switch and booster into the holes on either side the usbC port?
this doesnt seem right to me, but I dont know enough to be sure.
thanks in advance
Yup, use the ones i used for this test, they are the protected output of the module - so if you draw too much current or the voltage on your batteries drops too low, the module will shut it off until you recharge your batteries
@@SimpleElectronics thank you so much! really apreciate that. thanks for the videos too 👍👍
0.46 euro cents** but this thing give 1A as far as I know, are there any faster modules?
Any ideas on how to use this with an inverter? Looking for ideas on how to replace my generator. I already have a transfer switch installed in the house.
You would probably want a bunch of cells in series and then parallel - so these modules would not be what you are looking for.
excellent video, i was wondering if its safe to have a load connected and charge at the same time but you proved that it is ok with 2 ammeters.
Now i am wondering if it is ok to have a load and charge at the same time when using a TP4056 module without protection with LiPo battery that has built in protection. Will that be the same result? just the protection moved from module to the battery?
What are those clip connector things between the power resistors? And also are those current sensors that you clip around a wire any good?
Spring terminals! This affiliate link should find you some! ebay.us/ZmJDGs and I haven't tested a lot of those current sensors but generally speaking, they should be just fine - same principle as an inductive clamp meter!
@@SimpleElectronics thank you
Cool video, what wire gauge did you use? Thanks.
it wasn't very thick maybe 18AWG?
Really good video, good job!
Thank you for letting me know! Hope you like my other videos as well!
Can I charge a 3.7 500 mAh li battery without changing the resister?
You can - but your poor little lithium battery will be working hard for you and so will not last long at all
@@SimpleElectronics that's what I thought so the battery will be garbage basically unless I change the resister to not output 1000 mAh current to my understanding
What if you have a device that draws more than 3A from the cell (or 2, 3 cells in parallel for more capacity). Anything with a large motor for example. It will keep cutting out.
Then you get a different board, plus it's designed for 1 cell
Fantastic video. Thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you!
If i have example 10 modules, and wanna feed them bigger 5v powersource? Is it ok? One module only takes 1amp max?
yup just wire them all in parallel, it's pretty common if you want to charge a bunch of cells from a single power pack
Bhayya good morning.
Can I connect a boost converter to TP4056 while it is charging a battery?
Please reply
I can't see why not.
Question, I can’t find any data on the output of the TP4056 and I don’t mean charging output. If the battery was not charging and the load was drawing power from it would the TP4056 interfere at all? So if I had a 3.7v 2000mah being used to power led that are drawing 1500mah, would the TP4056 limit the draw to only 100mah?
The TP4056 is not bidirectional, it's a charging board.
Asking for a friend...let's say I have 3 of these and I need to power a 12v Bluetooth speaker and I don't want to wait 2 years for a 3s board to come from china, could the outputs on these be wired in series to achieve 12v and wire the input in a way that charges only 5v?
I believe they could but BUT only in ONE situation....all of the grounds are wired together to the ground of the usb on the boards, so if you used a different battery/battery bank on each of the modules, I think it could work...but as soon as you have two of the boards on the same battery, or on a regular usb power plug or in a computer, it's over, it will short....basically, if you are uncomfortable with these statements, don't even try it!
How much current do you need?
If it's low enough, just use an MT3608 to step up the voltage from a lower voltage instead of going 3S.
hey i have dobt can i use unprotected cells on the protected charger cause i already bought the boards and its on its way
Yes, the protected boards are designed to be used with unprotected cells
Can you please share the link to purchase the power supply - seems like a good one. Thanks
I think that is a D3806, mr Simple Electronics to verify that.
it is!
Amazing video keep making this amazing content.:D
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Please could you steer me to one (with micro usb) that can charge two 365 mAah lipos in series?
I don't really know of any, because the voltage of the two cells will be higher than the USB, and therefore would require a boost circuit inside!
If I have two boards, and two cells, can I parallel them to the load to get 7-7.4v while each tp4056 handles its single battery?
Yes and no. You would have to charge them individually, or use a completely isolated charger to charge them (aka use two different powerbanks to charge them) if not, you risk shorting the batteries. I would recommend a 2S BMS board instead
@@SimpleElectronics Since I already have twenty of these I decided to use 1 18650 and a boost converter. Thanks.
can you suggest some to get a pi w2 @ 5 with 2.8 inch screen i was needing to power and charge 2 2000 mah batteries and i am confused serial or parallel
well done !
Just to be sure can I use a lipo the one from drones
Can you use the micro board with protected cells? I ordered this board and with protected cells already. Thanks.
Yes you can! They were specifically designed for that!
@@SimpleElectronics You mentioned that the one with the mini USB has no protection circuit whereas the microUSB board does. So it's not an issue to have a protected battery on the board with protection circuitry? Effectively having double protection I assume.
@J Anything Oops I confused mini with micro. You can still use them yes, but less than ideal, but nothing terrible; just losing some voltage by passing through two MOSFets
@@SimpleElectronics Thanks. I bought some protected 18650's, but I do have lots without protection anyway.
Could I put more than 1 battery in parallel? Thanks for the video!
if they are the same, yes but they will charge half as fast
@@SimpleElectronics Ok! Then could I put more than 1 TP4056 OUT (+ and -) in parallel? Like this image i.stack.imgur.com/ga8Zl.jpg
Thanks!
I would say no, if you plug in two batteries to charge, the grounds will be linked, which is not good.
@@tomasfernandezcomparini761 You can do this, there's loads of videos of people making huge charging boards using lots of these tp4056 modules in parallel. What you can't do is use three of them on a 3s pack, as I learned the hard way.
Can you charge six 18650 batteries in parallel with this board? Is it safe?
as long as they are all at the same voltage when you parallel them it should be fine, but it will take forever and a day to charge. I would recommend ordering a 10-pack of these boards from ebay or amazon.
3 amps is the limit for the output.
Trying to understand why you did not use the cell with 1.8v?
Lithium-ion batteries are damaged if they discharge below 2.5v....they can potentially explode while recharging if you aren't extra careful with these cells
@@SimpleElectronics - The low voltage cells aren't damaged to the degree that you imply. While the cell's overall performance may be slightly decreased, it's perfectly fine to SLOWLY charge lithium ion cells that are below 2.5V. I've been successful with cells as low as 0.05V. Look at the spec sheet for how to lower the TP4056 charging current. Pin 2 resistor to ground is how you adjust the current. I use a 10k pot with a 1K resistor in series, thus giving me a range from 1 Kohms up to 11 Kohms depending on the pot's setting. This allows me to vary the current from about 50mA up to 1000mA. I add a voltmeter to keep an eye on things. Just set the current to 50mA (pot set to 10Kohms) and watch the voltage slowly rise over the course of an hour. Periodically feel the cell to see if it's getting warm. If it gets hot, remove it from the charger and recycle it. If the cell is taking a charge and not hot, then bump the current up to 100mA and watch the voltage rise a little faster. When the voltage reaches approximately 2.90V the TP4056 will automatically exit "trickle charge" mode and the current will increase to the setting determined by the TP4056 pin 2 resistor. Let it charge up to 4.00V, periodically checking if the cell is getting hot. Then discharge to about 3.30V and charge to 4.00V a few times. If that goes well, bring it all the way up to 4.20Volts. After the above cycling process, let the cell sit for a week (or two) to verify that it isn't self discharging. If the fully charged (4.20V) cell falls below 4.05V after a week of sitting, it will likely continue that trend. Label it as "slowly self discharging" and keep it separate from your good cells. It's still usable, but it will slowly discharge any other cells that are wired in parallel with it. Most of the time (>95%) I can revive low voltage cells without any issues. Go slow, use low current, watch the temperature, and cycle it from 4.00V to 3.30V a few times, check for self discharge, and then you'll be fine.
Literally just built a charger with those protected boards today.
how long did they last? i am running 4.72 volts and keep burning them up. using a 60 amp 300 watt 5v power supply on a hall effect meter.
@@invictusfarmer7188 Im literally using a smartphone charger for two of the protected boards soldered in parallel. So I put the usb cable in one and both get powered. The charger is not a cheapo one though it was from my oneplus X.
I mean it depends on how many of those charger boards you are running but a 60 amp psu seems very overkill.
When u say you are running 4.7v, is that what gets put into the chargerboards or what the chargerboards put into the batteries?
@@NickDerMitHut yeah the power supply puts out 4.72 volts when i adjust down the voltage regulator. tp4056 ar 4.5-5.5 volts i believe. less voltage less heat supposedly. but yeah my supply would be over kill for 2 holders but im currently up to 40 of them lol. it draws about 40 amps when full of batteries.
Nice video, thanks, like it :)
Nice video bro so thank you.
Mean 4065 max supply is below 1.2 amp .first it supply output 0.36 Amps then the rest 0.65 Amp going to charge the battery .it is correct ?
I'm not sure, was your supply strong enough?
@@SimpleElectronics yes ,solar 6V 2W , output light just 30ma
@@samchong7309 I don't think that solar output will be enough!
@@SimpleElectronics no matter how i testing it now ,thanks
If my phone charger is 2 amps, will 2 of these powered by same source work at 100% capacity?
It should if you short the data pins
@@SimpleElectronics can you provide a video tutorial please?
I suppose I could!
@@SimpleElectronics thank you
Could you use this tp4056 to charge LiFePO4 single cell?
No you can't due to the LiFePo4 cell's lower voltage, unfortunately
Capacity test please ;)
How 2 solve heating problem of this module,,,can I change R3 for 2Amp output
I think I would look for another charging solution if you want 2 Amps....like a CC/CV module
when it is red it is changing so the battery 🔋 was still charging and when it turns blue it is fully charged so u made a mistake
Can I use this with a small 5v solar panel to charge a 18650 battery?
I think so but it will take forever to charge.
@@SimpleElectronics Oh. Thank you for that info. How much voltage or watts do I need in my solar panel to properly charge the battery?
5W
What type of cable are you using to buy it?
They're about $0.20 on Aliexpress.
Thanks.
how about a test a protected cell with that module?
I would love to but I don't have any
@@SimpleElectronics also try the output current, I tried to power the pi3 with a mt3608 boost module but pi shutdown in the middle off booting. I don't have test equipment to test it, so please test and make video,that will be really helpful.
Also I am ordering some tp5100 modules see if that can solve it.
Thank you.
so i got 3 of these boards for some batteries i ripped off from old laptop batteries and when i use a 1 amp usb adapterto charge it tends to work fine but when i switched to a quickcharge adapter(abt 3A max output) the board heats up to a point where i cant touch it..anyone else having these issues?
iirc, quick charge can increase voltage too! Check your voltage! I understand that the higher voltage should be negotiated by the device but we all know not all devices comply with standards!
@@SimpleElectronics so i just checked it and it stayed at 5v.used a battery that was like 85%full and the board is slightly warm then i switched it out to a depleted battery and it heated to a point where i felt unsafe and dangerous within 10 seconds but the input voltage was still 5v
Interesting, can you get a temperature reading on it? anything under 90c should still be 'safe'
@@SimpleElectronics -- This is why some charger modules expose the thermistor pin on the charge control chip (to access a battery's thermistor wire -- if it has one!)
Amazon Eclipse Tools CP-301G Pro'sKit Precision Wire Stripper, 30-20 AWG $5
Can I use two lithium battery ?
In parallel yes, not in series.
@@SimpleElectronics if I want 5v from tp4056 what I do ?
@@moamelabdullah7810 if you look up powerbank circuits, you can buy some where all you need it to add a battery - it does charging, discharging, 5v regulation, all of it for you. Like this one: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9GnQid
Is it okay of I charge a lithium ion battery 2000mah?
Yes but it will take over 2 hours
is it safe? Im sorry I'm new to electronics
It is, make sure it's a single cell though! 3.7v nominal!
it is, thank you
@@jericklasat1109 no worries!
Nice video, china #1
Remember kids: Always trust your pretty volatile batteries to a 1 dollar module! Definitely safe :D
MILLIONS of power banks run on these chips!
@@SimpleElectronics doesn't make it a good idea but fair enough
@@Razvii it makes it a "good enough" idea, which is basically the motto of this channel :P
@@SimpleElectronics that's also the motto of my life
You get what you pay for with wire strippers. I'm after the wife for a a knipex one because it's the style I like and I keep paying for 25 dollar chi ese ones that fail
Beli
Sчо это
MORE TALK LESS WORK
thankyou for this! very dumb noobie question... i got some of the chip recommended for unprotected cells... and i'm very much assuming they cannot be used to charge the recovered cells from thrown disposable ecgis? Using them to then run LEDS or a simple motor.
They can indeed be used for that
Hi,
1. at 13:12 the current is 0.310A at voltage 3.7V or 3.479V, how come the load is 6ohm where R=V/I which is 3.479/0.310 roughly 11.X ohm instead, what's happened ?
Can TP4056 works on protective cell as well ?
You can get some modules without the protection chip on it
@@SimpleElectronics , thank you for the feedback, so TP4056 can works on protective cell right ? as I firstly I saw the mesage "Yes..." later disappeared. Actually I have one pair of protective Panasonic Original NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAH so wonder it can still be used with TP4056.
Search for tp4056 on ebay and you'll see two types; one with just the tp4056 on it and one with an extra chip on it. The extra chip IS the cell protection. So if you have a protected cell, you buy the modules without the protection chip, if you have unprotected cells, you buy the modules with the protection chip
Can I charge the high drain battery using the tp4056 charging bord? Pls reply
You definitely can - but the charge current will remain 1A
How to balance charge with this bord?
I want to use this for my vape battery.
How many cells in your vape? You cannot use this module to balance charge....but it was my understanding that most vapes only have single cells, and therefore do not require balancing
@@SimpleElectronics 2 & 3 battery mod.