you mentioned Elkhart, wow its a small world because I am originally from there but stationed down at Ft Jackson, SC. Currently switching out my clutch in my old early 90's Snapper 12HP 33" HIVAC and your videos are very informational helpful and just want to thank you for them.
Jim Jackson thank you and yes I subscribed and you gave me the confidence to order a clutch from amazon for $20.87 shipped and will be at my house this Sunday! I measured my worn clutch outer diameter and it’s only 5.5” and new clutch measures 6” which tells me I have about 1/2” of rubber material worn off hahaha. Yeah I was trying to cut the yard an hour ago and it stopped moving but reverse sorta worked so pushed the snapper in the drive way and stood her up and sure enough the clutch was nearly worn down to metal. Thanks man for your videos, seriously a tremendous help. Look forward to your videos. Would like to restore my 33” Hivac one day, I got her from a buddy for only $120 and all it needed at the time was a new carburetor so not a bad deal
Absolutely, you helped! I'm about to replace the friction wheel(clutch?), I believe I ordered it with the clutch installed, but I noted about installing it with no gap. I think my big test will be installing the flex tubing on the drive shafts. I get my parts tomorrow.
I am working on an SR1028 now.. So far from your vids I think i am needing soft start liner. Previous owner said he put on new "rubber" and I am now thinking just outside... Mowed good on flat, yesterday hit smaller hill and now I have a bad vibration/loss power in the drive train up small incline or under "load" I pulled off the clutch, and I can already say I am missing the beveled washer on the inside, and that part of the clutch is "wallering" already and no longer level. I am taking the clutch apart right now to see what is inside Unsure what exact year model ours is or how to tell but is "newer" style and not like the old neck snapper we had years ago with the white handlebars your vids are a lifesaver mate!
It sounds like you need a new clutch disc assembly that’s the part that bolts onto the side of your chain case that the clutch disc mounts onto send me some pictures. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Hi Jim. Thanks for the prompt reply. I was not expecting this :-) I am a mechanic too, but not as familiar with the snapper. I was yesterday years old watching your vids when I realized the "bar" on the back was to stand it on it's arse... had NO IDEA lol. I was laying under it like a buffoon on a jack. Anyway Tell me more about the bellville (beveled) washer on the bearing side. I removed and took apart the clutch.. it is a soft start, it is new inside and out as PO stated. I believe the missing bellville washer caused the clutch hub to start grinding away at the chain case. he had just replaced the part, then sold to me. It went south vibrating on the 2nd (really the first) mow I believe that once it reached the point of no return as it ground away the hub side it caused a bad wobble in the whole ckutch, so it was tracking wobbly on the drive disc I have ordered new assembly the good news of this is I only really needed the hub but it comes a kit.. so now I have a spare rubber wheeel with new liner assembly :-) Will report back cheers to you and yours Dave
the chain case and bearing have no damage and all else looks fine and newit looks like since the hub is made of a cheaper cast chinesium that it sacrificed causing only damage to itself.. where Would I send photo? mower is in great shape.. I need to add lubricant I think to the drive components.. I will watch your vids to day and find the one on the lubricants required thanks so much it is a like new mower...but if i am correct the missing bellville washer will rectify the issue It is a Snapper 1028 Snapper 281016BE not sure what the BE is for as there is another 10hp model with a different last two digits
@@Attic_Labs let me know how it’s running when you get it all put back together, 28 means 28 inch deck 10 means 10 hp original engine 16 means series 16 B, means Briggs & Stratton. engine E means with electric start Hope that helps if you get your new clutch disc assembly and clutch disc installed and it still doesn’t want to climb a hill watch video number 70 and tighten your yolk spring. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Once again thanks for the stellar replies. I will "pre-watch" vid #70 now. I am waiting for the Bellville washers to arrive (my grandparents had a farm in Bellville, OH) An update so far. The new clutch disc arrived and I see them side by side. The hub on the old one is destroyed. Again if you would let me know your email or FB I can send photos. I think the missing Bellville washer caused the hub to just rub against the chain case... the inside of the hub is bigger, and no longer "round" and the woodruff key slot is pretty much gone. so the PO installed this new clutch wrong, re- used an old worn woodruff, or it was the missing bellville washer did it. So not sure what was the initial cause of the breakdown.. we've only used it the one time since purchase... but so far it looks like when I get the washers i will be good to go again many thanks cheers Still loving I can stand this thing up lol
The oem replacement part didn't come with the inner rubber piece so I picked the right one it wasn't the oem part because it didn't come with the rubber piece plus it was $86 some dollars so I'll see how the off brand does I figure on the oem part the outer rubber is probably made better than on the off brand outer rubber I picked the off brand part that already has the rubber in it
@@scottfowler3133 I rebuild a lot of machines way out of state for me they ship I rebuild them and ship them back, what state do you live in? I’m in Michigan.
@@manuelcruz585 is the keyway in the clutch disk assembly stripped out. Are you just having trouble holding the assembly to try to break it loose?. Jim
Is it necessary to remove the entire disc assembly to replace the brake lever arm? I'm trying to replace mine and I took off the driven disc with the 4 smaller nuts, but the clutch disc is still attached by the large nut, and I cannot seem to wiggle the brake arm out of there. I don't have a socket large enough for that nut. I think I read it is a 24mm socket and my set only goes to 21mm. Do you have to move the clutch assembly into the reverse position, so it moves to the left?I'm replacing my chewed up driven disc while I've got it off, but the brake needs replacing too. The brake stopped working when I was in reverse and I had to pop it back into neutral while moving, then the brake started not working well when I was moving forward. I have a series 11 rider, Model 301011BE. It says SR120 on the assembly around the steering column. I think it is referred to as a "square frame" Snapper. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Soulman1282 You should be able to get the brake arm out without removing the clutch disk assembly if you remove the cable and take the 1/4- 20 bolts out of the bottom of the chain case the brake arm should come out, If you have any further issues please let me know. Jim
Why do you not like the soft clutch? I have a 3080. 30 " deck 8 hp engine series 0, old. And it is really hard to maneuver sometimes with the original clutch system. I was thinking of converting it to soft clutch. I have the parts from another model that has a soft clutch. What do you think? Great info on your videos thanks.
Hey Jim. At roughly the 5:30 mark in the video where you move to the table, there is a metal hook looking bracket laying on the table by your right hand. Is that a thacherizer lock bracket. I sure hope so. I found that thing on ebay as unknown part. I'm hoping I can use it for my thatcherizer. I actually think that's what it is but I couldn't ever find good pics to tell for sure. Thanks
Quick Cal's Garage It depends do you have a round tube machine or a square tube they are different. And how much was the part. And yes it is for the thatcher
I have the square tube machine. So I think the bracket is technically wrong, but I think it will work since I can't find the proper one. It was $11 with free shipping. While I have your attention,,,lol. I think I have a blown head gasket and an ignition switch issue. Could you take a look at a video I posted and give your opinion. Thanks. ruclips.net/video/agh8UkH3iF4/видео.html
Quick Cal's Garage $11 is cheap but I have one for a square tube send me a emails so I will have your email address and I'll send you a picture of the one for square tube. Thanks Jim
Quick Cal's Garage The head gasket would be simple to replace the wire for the ignition switch you could run a new one in place of the old one that could be broken, run it from the ignition switch to the blocked on the side of the engine where all of the safety switches hook to that will kill the engine when you shut off the switch. Thanks Jim
I just bought a clutch disk for my snapper riding mower. I have seen places that sell the clutch disk with a liner My mower did not have the liner. Is it an option or what?
I am not sure what you mean by you’re mower does not have a liner it’s the clutch disk that has the liner unless you have an older comet that has a solid clutch instead of a soft start clutch. Jim
Hello, i have a problem whit clutch disc on my snapper: in rear moving it seems that it does not attack well I have to keep the lever in reverse to make it back up and even doing this you hear a loud noise. I have changed the disc but still nothing I can do?
Japan Import If it doesn’t make any noise moving forward only backwards I would check your brake arm to see if that is dragging or when it’s in reverse the chain case may be hitting your drive disk and that would be caused by the left hand axle bushing is shot check to see how much slop you have in it. Jim
Jim, I have a 2010 RER 3013523BVE, single pedal, that tore up a new rubber drive disk in 10 hours - ground the rubber right down to the metal. The plate is between 3 3/4" & 3 13/16" as spec, the cable clutch has 3/8" slack, the clutch spring is in the 3rd hole. Any ideas? Thanks
sailorman37 Hi it’s Jim. Yes I got a couple check to make sure your break is not dragging, I had one view were the break was locked up. Check to make sure your bushings or bearings whatever you have in your fenders are in good shape and not dragging. Let me know what you find out. Thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381 The brake is not dragging and the bushings and thrust washers are in good shape. I just replaced the rubber bellows on both sides and greased everything. Also replaced the rubber drive disk again. Ran 15 mins and it seems to already be wearing. Only thing I wonder about is the drive plate is "pebbled" with rust. Does that have to be smooth and could that wear the rubber drive disc? Thanks Sent from Blue
sailorman37 Well if the disc is real rusty I can’t imagine that’s helping your issues but most of the drive disks are aluminum and I shouldn’t be all rusty Can you send me a picture of it to my email which is. jimsfixitshop@gmail.com and I’ll see if I can figure out your problem. Thanks Jim
William Davis If the rubber clutch is loose on the inner disc then yes you need to replace it you can tell better if you take the clutch disk off of the machine. Jim
Hey Jim, I sent you an email with a few questions, hoping you could answer. How to trouble shoot a vibrating deck with the blade is engaged? What to look for when you can't roll the mower backward (shifter in N and can roll forward)? Thanks.
tom ahn Hi it's Jim For the vibrations in your mower deck check your belt to make sure there's no pieces missing from it or it's not starting to fray, check your idler pulley make sure the bearings are in good shape, I've had some viewers tell me they found a issue on the deck vibrations they had a small twig or stone stuck in the pulley groove where the belt goes. On the issue with not being able to push your machine watch a video 132 and check the points on your machine then I point out. Thanks Jim
Thanks Jim, I actually had to replace the belt as the old one shredded to pieces on my previous mow attempt. The blade was not level by 1/16th so I corrected that via the leveling bolts. After the leveling and new belt I adjusted the tension on the belt and there was no excessive vibration.
After you checked what jim said check your blade and then check your spindle shaft it might have got bent if you hit any big sticks or a rock its happened to my craftsmen before and I replaced the deck spindle
Tim Pope I get my parts from Partstree.Com You can go on parts tree website with your model number of your machines and find your part and part number and you can then find them on Amazon or eBay, if you are not sure what you need you can call parts tree and they will help you find the correct part you’re looking for they are a great company to work with. Thanks Jim
Eric Collins I have a video that shows how to remove your clutch disk assembly when it is stripped out as yours is the video number is 141 if you have any other questions let me know. Jim
ISAAC SASSON The lining that goes in your clutch disk should be cut to the Size it needs to be to fit inside of the disk tight. But I think you could probably put a little superglue in there to help hold it if need be. Jim
Dylan Oaktree Hi it’s Jim I called my mechanic buddy that works for a snapper dealer and he said those after market clutches with the loose material should be cut to the right size where it will be a pressure fit in side of the clutch and you shouldn’t need any glue , if you wanted to I suppose you could just use some super glue to hold it in place. Thanks Jim
Dylan Oaktree They say if it’s cut to fit just slide it in and it will work that way, personally I would probably put some super glue down in between the lining and the clutch disk. Jim
You would just be wasting glue IMHO. The liner is designed to float and slip within the driven disk. Snapper Engineers have designed the liner to slip on both sides for a real smooth operation. Glue would probably not last very long anyway with all the heat and shocks the Liner will encounter. The liner is pretty well captured anyway and is not going to fall out of the assembly so no glue is needed to help keep it captured.
Lenny Nalley Hi it’s Jim Without seeing it I would have to say it sounds like you have a broken chain in either your chain case or differential, or the brake is locked up on your chain case check that out and let me know what you find. Thanks Jim
I installed a new clutch and when I went up from sidewalk to grass (steep grade - about 3") this burnt out my new clutch (I was in 1st gear). What is happening???
you mentioned Elkhart, wow its a small world because I am originally from there but stationed down at Ft Jackson, SC. Currently switching out my clutch in my old early 90's Snapper 12HP 33" HIVAC and your videos are very informational helpful and just want to thank you for them.
Richard E
Well you’re welcome and I hope your a subscriber and keep watching. Jim
Jim Jackson thank you and yes I subscribed and you gave me the confidence to order a clutch from amazon for $20.87 shipped and will be at my house this Sunday! I measured my worn clutch outer diameter and it’s only 5.5” and new clutch measures 6” which tells me I have about 1/2” of rubber material worn off hahaha. Yeah I was trying to cut the yard an hour ago and it stopped moving but reverse sorta worked so pushed the snapper in the drive way and stood her up and sure enough the clutch was nearly worn down to metal. Thanks man for your videos, seriously a tremendous help. Look forward to your videos. Would like to restore my 33” Hivac one day, I got her from a buddy for only $120 and all it needed at the time was a new carburetor so not a bad deal
GOOD Stuff...GREAT Info Sir !
Pepsi owes this man a LOT
Absolutely, you helped! I'm about to replace the friction wheel(clutch?), I believe I ordered it with the clutch installed, but I noted about installing it with no gap. I think my big test will be installing the flex tubing on the drive shafts. I get my parts tomorrow.
Gene Sloan
Well let me know how it works out. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 you have been super helpful with your knowledge. And I've learned a lot!
Gene Sloan
Well I appreciate that and I guess that makes what I’m doing worthwhile. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 yep, recieved parts, got the good rubber flex tubes, and clutch is "included" but not installed, lol.... Got to read the fine print!
with the Comet you can use the auxiliary brake pedal to soften the take off
I am working on an SR1028 now.. So far from your vids I think i am needing soft start liner. Previous owner said he put on new "rubber" and I am now thinking just outside... Mowed good on flat, yesterday hit smaller hill and now I have a bad vibration/loss power in the drive train up small incline or under "load"
I pulled off the clutch, and I can already say I am missing the beveled washer on the inside, and that part of the clutch is "wallering" already and no longer level.
I am taking the clutch apart right now to see what is inside
Unsure what exact year model ours is or how to tell
but is "newer" style and not like the old neck snapper we had years ago with the white handlebars
your vids are a lifesaver mate!
It sounds like you need a new clutch disc assembly that’s the part that bolts onto the side of your chain case that the clutch disc mounts onto send me some pictures. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Hi Jim. Thanks for the prompt reply. I was not expecting this :-)
I am a mechanic too, but not as familiar with the snapper. I was yesterday years old watching your vids when I realized the "bar" on the back was to stand it on it's arse... had NO IDEA lol.
I was laying under it like a buffoon on a jack.
Anyway Tell me more about the bellville (beveled) washer on the bearing side.
I removed and took apart the clutch.. it is a soft start, it is new inside and out as PO stated.
I believe the missing bellville washer caused the clutch hub to start grinding away at the chain case.
he had just replaced the part, then sold to me. It went south vibrating on the 2nd (really the first) mow
I believe that once it reached the point of no return as it ground away the hub side it caused a bad wobble in the whole ckutch, so it was tracking wobbly on the drive disc
I have ordered new assembly
the good news of this is I only really needed the hub but it comes a kit.. so now I have a spare rubber wheeel with new liner assembly :-)
Will report back
cheers to you and yours
Dave
the chain case and bearing have no damage and all else looks fine and newit looks like since the hub is made of a cheaper cast chinesium that it sacrificed causing only damage to itself..
where Would I send photo?
mower is in great shape.. I need to add lubricant I think to the drive components.. I will watch your vids to day and find the one on the lubricants required
thanks so much
it is a like new mower...but if i am correct the missing bellville washer will rectify the issue It is a Snapper 1028 Snapper 281016BE not sure what the BE is for as there is another 10hp model with a different last two digits
@@Attic_Labs let me know how it’s running when you get it all put back together,
28 means 28 inch deck
10 means 10 hp original engine
16 means series 16
B, means Briggs & Stratton. engine
E means with electric start
Hope that helps if you get your new clutch disc assembly and clutch disc installed and it still doesn’t want to climb a hill watch video number 70 and tighten your yolk spring. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Once again thanks for the stellar replies. I will "pre-watch" vid #70 now. I am waiting for the Bellville washers to arrive (my grandparents had a farm in Bellville, OH)
An update so far. The new clutch disc arrived and I see them side by side. The hub on the old one is destroyed. Again if you would let me know your email or FB I can send photos.
I think the missing Bellville washer caused the hub to just rub against the chain case... the inside of the hub is bigger, and no longer "round" and the woodruff key slot is pretty much gone.
so the PO installed this new clutch wrong, re- used an old worn woodruff, or it was the missing bellville washer did it.
So not sure what was the initial cause of the breakdown.. we've only used it the one time since purchase...
but so far it looks like when I get the washers i will be good to go
again many thanks
cheers
Still loving I can stand this thing up lol
If your flex washers are missing, i'd say that could make it rub also.
Thanks I did watch #70 and adjusted the spring. BuT noticed the case had touched the drive disk.
The oem replacement part didn't come with the inner rubber piece so I picked the right one it wasn't the oem part because it didn't come with the rubber piece plus it was $86 some dollars so I'll see how the off brand does I figure on the oem part the outer rubber is probably made better than on the off brand outer rubber
I picked the off brand part that already has the rubber in it
your very helpfull if you could give wrench size too that would save time on are end
I want this guy to fix my mower snapper
@@scottfowler3133 I rebuild a lot of machines way out of state for me they ship I rebuild them and ship them back, what state do you live in? I’m in Michigan.
Thank you I'm having same problem will let you know what happens
jeff testerman
Great keep in touch. Jim
I sure hope Pepsi sponsored this video :) LOL
Yes I sure wish I did too. Jim
FYI dubbel sided tape
Hi Jim, this is Manny from Ocala Florida. I try to take middle or not off, but everything turns how I can make a stop and not turn
@@manuelcruz585 is the keyway in the clutch disk assembly stripped out. Are you just having trouble holding the assembly to try to break it loose?. Jim
Yep I fixed my stearing to
NEW nylon Bushings?
you should say hello family
Jim should my clutch ring rubber move off of the Steal
No absolutely not if the Rubber is breaking loose from the steel clutch disk you need a new one. Jim
Hey Jim I fixed my front wheels on my snapper
1974 Chevrolet 350
What did you find wrong with them. Jim
Is it necessary to remove the entire disc assembly to replace the brake lever arm? I'm trying to replace mine and I took off the driven disc with the 4 smaller nuts, but the clutch disc is still attached by the large nut, and I cannot seem to wiggle the brake arm out of there. I don't have a socket large enough for that nut. I think I read it is a 24mm socket and my set only goes to 21mm. Do you have to move the clutch assembly into the reverse position, so it moves to the left?I'm replacing my chewed up driven disc while I've got it off, but the brake needs replacing too. The brake stopped working when I was in reverse and I had to pop it back into neutral while moving, then the brake started not working well when I was moving forward. I have a series 11 rider, Model 301011BE. It says SR120 on the assembly around the steering column. I think it is referred to as a "square frame" Snapper. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Soulman1282
You should be able to get the brake arm out without removing the clutch disk assembly if you remove the cable and take the 1/4- 20 bolts out of the bottom of the chain case the brake arm should come out, If you have any further issues please let me know. Jim
Why do you not like the soft clutch? I have a 3080. 30 " deck 8 hp engine series 0, old. And it is really hard to maneuver sometimes with the original clutch system. I was thinking of converting it to soft clutch. I have the parts from another model that has a soft clutch. What do you think? Great info on your videos thanks.
Hey Jim. At roughly the 5:30 mark in the video where you move to the table, there is a metal hook looking bracket laying on the table by your right hand. Is that a thacherizer lock bracket. I sure hope so. I found that thing on ebay as unknown part. I'm hoping I can use it for my thatcherizer. I actually think that's what it is but I couldn't ever find good pics to tell for sure. Thanks
Quick Cal's Garage
It depends do you have a round tube machine or a square tube they are different. And how much was the part. And yes it is for the thatcher
I have the square tube machine. So I think the bracket is technically wrong, but I think it will work since I can't find the proper one. It was $11 with free shipping.
While I have your attention,,,lol. I think I have a blown head gasket and an ignition switch issue. Could you take a look at a video I posted and give your opinion. Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/agh8UkH3iF4/видео.html
Quick Cal's Garage
$11 is cheap but I have one for a square tube send me a emails so I will have your email address and I'll send you a picture of the one for square tube. Thanks Jim
Done. Thanks
Quick Cal's Garage
The head gasket would be simple to replace the wire for the ignition switch you could run a new one in place of the old one that could be broken, run it from the ignition switch to the blocked on the side of the engine where all of the safety switches hook to that will kill the engine when you shut off the switch. Thanks Jim
I just bought a clutch disk for my snapper riding mower. I have seen places that sell the clutch disk with a liner My mower did not have the liner. Is it an option or what?
I am not sure what you mean by you’re mower does not have a liner it’s the clutch disk that has the liner unless you have an older comet that has a solid clutch instead of a soft start clutch. Jim
I used to switch the old clutch to the new style. Yes it would snatch the hell out of u
Glad to hear you successfully switched from the old to the new style clutch I hope my video helped you out. Jim
Hello, i have a problem whit clutch disc on my snapper: in rear moving
it seems that it does not attack well I have to keep the lever in reverse to make it back up and even doing this you hear a loud noise.
I have changed the disc but still nothing I can do?
Japan Import
If it doesn’t make any noise moving forward only backwards I would check your brake arm to see if that is dragging or when it’s in reverse the chain case may be hitting your drive disk and that would be caused by the left hand axle bushing is shot check to see how much slop you have in it. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks for your answer i'm going to try ^^
Jim, I have a 2010 RER 3013523BVE, single pedal, that tore up a new rubber drive disk in 10 hours - ground the rubber right down to the metal. The plate is between 3 3/4" & 3 13/16" as spec, the cable clutch has 3/8" slack, the clutch spring is in the 3rd hole. Any ideas? Thanks
sailorman37
Hi it’s Jim.
Yes I got a couple check to make sure your break is not dragging, I had one view were the break was locked up.
Check to make sure your bushings or bearings whatever you have in your fenders are in good shape and not dragging.
Let me know what you find out. Thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381
The brake is not dragging and the bushings and thrust washers are in good shape. I just replaced the rubber bellows on both sides and greased everything. Also replaced the rubber drive disk again. Ran 15 mins and it seems to already be wearing. Only thing I wonder about is the drive plate is "pebbled" with rust. Does that have to be smooth and could that wear the rubber drive disc? Thanks
Sent from Blue
sailorman37
Well if the disc is real rusty I can’t imagine that’s helping your issues but most of the drive disks are aluminum and I shouldn’t be all rusty Can you send me a picture of it to my email which is. jimsfixitshop@gmail.com and I’ll see if I can figure out your problem. Thanks Jim
The rubber is loose on my clutch disk. Will this hurt anything or do I need to replace the disk?
William Davis
If the rubber clutch is loose on the inner disc then yes you need to replace it you can tell better if you take the clutch disk off of the machine. Jim
Hey Jim, I sent you an email with a few questions, hoping you could answer. How to trouble shoot a vibrating deck with the blade is engaged? What to look for when you can't roll the mower backward (shifter in N and can roll forward)? Thanks.
tom ahn
Hi it's Jim
For the vibrations in your mower deck check your belt to make sure there's no pieces missing from it or it's not starting to fray, check your idler pulley make sure the bearings are in good shape, I've had some viewers tell me they found a issue on the deck vibrations they had a small twig or stone stuck in the pulley groove where the belt goes. On the issue with not being able to push your machine watch a video 132 and check the points on your machine then I point out. Thanks Jim
Thanks Jim, I actually had to replace the belt as the old one shredded to pieces on my previous mow attempt. The blade was not level by 1/16th so I corrected that via the leveling bolts. After the leveling and new belt I adjusted the tension on the belt and there was no excessive vibration.
tom ahn
So you have your issues resolved. Jim
After you checked what jim said check your blade and then check your spindle shaft it might have got bent if you hit any big sticks or a rock its happened to my craftsmen before and I replaced the deck spindle
Jim what company do you purchase your replacement parts from and thanks for these very informative videos !
Tim Pope
I get my parts from Partstree.Com
You can go on parts tree website with your model number of your machines and find your part and part number and you can then find them on Amazon or eBay, if you are not sure what you need you can call parts tree and they will help you find the correct part you’re looking for they are a great company to work with. Thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks Jim !
Clutch hub (spinning) is completely sheared, and I can't get the hub bolt off. Any ideas?
Eric Collins
I have a video that shows how to remove your clutch disk assembly when it is stripped out as yours is the video number is 141 if you have any other questions let me know. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks Jim, I was able to get off. Now just need to find a new one and a new key. Thank you.
Eric Collins
Parts Tree.Com is where I get my parts they’re out of Texas great company to work with and have every part you’ll need. Jim
Isaac Sasson
Hi Jim
how to glue it if it come not attached what kind of glue to use
ISAAC SASSON
The lining that goes in your clutch disk should be cut to the Size it needs to be to fit inside of the disk tight. But I think you could probably put a little superglue in there to help hold it if need be. Jim
@@jimjackson9381
Thank you
what Glue would a guy use to glue the brake material inside the disc if a guy had too?
Dylan Oaktree
Hi it’s Jim
I called my mechanic buddy that works for a snapper dealer and he said those after market clutches with the loose material should be cut to the right size where it will be a pressure fit in side of the clutch and you shouldn’t need any glue , if you wanted to I suppose you could just use some super glue to hold it in place. Thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381 the one i have has already been cut to fit but it still slides inside of it
Dylan Oaktree
They say if it’s cut to fit just slide it in and it will work that way, personally I would probably put some super glue down in between the lining and the clutch disk. Jim
You would just be wasting glue IMHO. The liner is designed to float and slip within the driven disk. Snapper Engineers have designed the liner to slip on both sides for a real smooth operation. Glue would probably not last very long anyway with all the heat and shocks the Liner will encounter. The liner is pretty well captured anyway and is not going to fall out of the assembly so no glue is needed to help keep it captured.
Will the clutches interchange
Yes most of them will. Jim
Pushed send to soon, my bad
as long as your inner changing soft start to a soft start or a solid clutch to a solid clutch they should interchange. Jim
I have a 14 horse snapper and both back wheels will not turn. it will not roll.
Lenny Nalley
Hi it’s Jim
Without seeing it I would have to say it sounds like you have a broken chain in either your chain case or differential, or the brake is locked up on your chain case check that out and let me know what you find. Thanks Jim
Take it out of gear.
I installed a new clutch and when I went up from sidewalk to grass (steep grade - about 3") this burnt out my new clutch (I was in 1st gear). What is happening???
You need to watch video number 70 and check the points I mention and tighten your yoke spring that should take care of your issue. Jim
Jim can you give me a call
Joshua Hart
Joshua do you still need me to call you, if so send your phone number to my email which is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Thanks Jim