I just installed the RPM front lower and upper arms on my V5 last night. Without even driving it, I'm blown away by how much that tightened everything up. The front hubs used to wiggle all over the place because of the play in the stock arms, the upper ones especially.
@@nc_rider_7046 I never owned a V3, I just got back into the hobby recently myself. From what I understand , there's a lot of cross compatibility between them. But then there's the little nuances, like the lower shock mount pins on the V5 are different from the previous versions so you'd have to take that into account etc.. The key is having an owners manual or exploded parts diagram so you can see what part numbers have changed and what haven't. I'm betting if the bulkheads are the same you'll be in good shape.
@@nc_rider_7046 And just to throw in another two cents... My Kraton v5 did not come with a shim on the input gear. And My Fireteam did. And they use identical gears. No doubt Arrma figured something out there. If you throw new diff gears in that thing shim your input gears right off the bat.
What an awesome build , brother! I can still picture my most favorite and amazing build. Kraton 8s with a max5 combo, m2cified! I do the same gas line trick on the shocks. But the icing on the cake was the hand painted body by my brother who is an amazing artist! It’s sad that I don’t even have pictures of it now. Unfortunately, had to sell my entire collection, but I got the greatest prize of all in full custody of my daughter! So I would sell all my RCs over and over again for her. But man do I miss late night wrenching and running cars. It was my therapy. One day when finances get better I’ll get more cars and trucks. Thanks for sharing your awesome build and filling that rc void I have. Love the screen on the ESC fan great idea.
I’m a couple years behind you, I’m currently building a Big Rock v3 3s 😂. Your videos have been very helpful and informative!! I’m going to add the center diff to it thanks to your video on that! Excellent
My build is an M2C Racing Chassis with all the Hot Racing parts for the Kraton, I call it Black Ice Kraton. Other parts include Pro-Line, RPM suspension arms and front bumper & HD rear wing mount.
I appreciate the video. I I have an EXB still in the box I ordered a few years back when they went on sale. I was thinking I need to get it out and order the motor and esc. This video helps me on deciding what to get. Thanks!!
Same here but I’ve been through a couple kratons . Like stated above I would go through so many ring gears ⚙️ till I figured out the bulkheads wear and get soft and shimming won’t help . Than the exb came out with the needed beefed up ring and pinion and now the satalight.. gear ⚙️ goes even shimmed properly. Like aj said they’re just not tunable , I finally get exb Mojave to not blow the diff but now I snapped axels , do not buy amazon axles they broke on the first jump . So I have it working with 1650 kv but probably a matter of time before diff goes . And kraton was my favorite rc but if you’re running daily the parts really wear down . So I replace them with the standard diffs because same ratio and way cheaper to boot . I prefer the straight cut typhon gears not only are they the cheapest I can shim them till completely worn getting 100s runs , and even if I don’t shim them I got my money worth by time the pinion or ring is too worn . My first exb kraton has typhon diffs and arms with kraton hubs and is absolute beast that all the parts 80% worn down 😂 I just changed the hubs and bearing and they were hot racing that the ball socket worn and kept heating with torch bending the lip back over , problem this time was I messed the threads up putting it the vise . I look at it like this sure traxxas Losi diffs will last longer but at a price . Nothing performs like a arrma and nothing performing to the limits is not going to break or wear down faster .
How come you can buy a exb center diff just swap out the spur for a ring gear ⚙️ and now the LSD doesn’t work , it’s like they need to metal cups and torque to spec . This is why I passed on the new BRCC only reason I buy LWB. Arrmas now if the sale too good to be true ,
Adu racing 7075 chassis, shock towers, hubs, suspension mounts, pins, chassis braces, dif housings,motor mount. Vitavon driveshafts, stub axels, hexes, wheelnuts, diff cases, bellcrank. Gtr shocks. Scorched rc titanium center driveshafts and input cups. Rpm arms, wing mount/wheeliebar, Hobbywing max 6 5690 combo. Protek 1ktbl servo,Fkysky fgr4s receiver. Method rc terraform tires. Been building up for about a year to the tune of 2100$, but it's tough, fast, and pretty.
Great video. Question about the fuel tubing on the shocks. Did you replace the metal pivots completely with the fuel tubing or is the tubing just like a thin slice in front and behind the shock cap? I think you have it going right thru the shock cap, but I wanted to make sure. Again, great video.
Love your videos dude, I'm always watchin your content but you GOTTA start WD40ing your cars. After cleaning, I spray WD onto a large brush and coat the vehicle. The plastics absorb the WD and become stronger, the finished product looks brand new, and more importantly it prevents rust from forming on screws and steel components like tie rods. It also eliminates the squeaking that occurs between plastic control arms and metal retainers!
Why is nobody talking about how easy it bottoms out.. I really love my Kraton 6S, but I hate the smack on the bottom when doing jumps😢 Do anyone here have a solution for that? 😅 Great video and awesome build!
You need to change the springs in your shocks to something much tighter, with a higher spring rate. It helps to put a slightly higher spring rate in the back than the front too.
Is it just me or can I not find the Arrma Talion exb on the Arrma website ? People are saying they discontinued it but why would they do that if it was one of there best sellers ? I suspect they are making another version of it ? I like the Kraton exb as well id be temped to get to.
Talion EXB 6s was discontinued at the start of the year (or earlier?) along with v1 exb kraton and outcast. They just announced a new v2 exb Kraton so hopefully the others will be back soon
Hi there, how did you manage to install the 35kg servo? i bought the FT5330M and it seems to be to tall and need to put spaces, however when installing spaces the steering arm is on an angle.
Is this for the new Kraton 6s 1/8 scale EXB? If so, I'm looking to put a wheelie bar on it. And i broke the wing mount. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance
This one is not the V2 EXB. I wish I could help with the wheelie bar but I have no replacements for the TBone racing one yet. Perhaps one will come on the market soon for the V2. If you find one please pass that info along to us here. It would be great info to share. Thanks😎👍
The v5 rpm arms for the rear are garbage. I run them on the front and they do well. Stock on the rear. The v4 rpm arms sag over time and flex too much. When you have hard impact, the shock pushes against the center of the arm and the arm it’s self bows. That’s why v5 up front and stock on the back is my recommendation and go-to set up
Working on yet another Mojave 6s. Trying something new, an all metal build ADU 4mm chassis, M2C, Vitavon, Scorthed titanium, CRCU.. named it HeavyMetal😎 should be named -where did all my money go!🤑👀🫡
This is a great video for the hobby . Upgrading doesnt have to always be extra expensive.
I just installed the RPM front lower and upper arms on my V5 last night. Without even driving it, I'm blown away by how much that tightened everything up. The front hubs used to wiggle all over the place because of the play in the stock arms, the upper ones especially.
I got a kraton 6s V3 I had for a couple years. I want to get back in the hobby. Do you know if the v4 or v5 parts fit the v3?
@@nc_rider_7046 I never owned a V3, I just got back into the hobby recently myself. From what I understand , there's a lot of cross compatibility between them. But then there's the little nuances, like the lower shock mount pins on the V5 are different from the previous versions so you'd have to take that into account etc.. The key is having an owners manual or exploded parts diagram so you can see what part numbers have changed and what haven't. I'm betting if the bulkheads are the same you'll be in good shape.
@@nc_rider_7046 And just to throw in another two cents... My Kraton v5 did not come with a shim on the input gear. And My Fireteam did. And they use identical gears. No doubt Arrma figured something out there. If you throw new diff gears in that thing shim your input gears right off the bat.
Awesome video as usual AJ. Appreciate that you only put out quality stuff and not junk content. Always learning something new from you!
What an awesome build , brother! I can still picture my most favorite and amazing build. Kraton 8s with a max5 combo, m2cified! I do the same gas line trick on the shocks. But the icing on the cake was the hand painted body by my brother who is an amazing artist! It’s sad that I don’t even have pictures of it now. Unfortunately, had to sell my entire collection, but I got the greatest prize of all in full custody of my daughter! So I would sell all my RCs over and over again for her. But man do I miss late night wrenching and running cars. It was my therapy. One day when finances get better I’ll get more cars and trucks. Thanks for sharing your awesome build and filling that rc void I have. Love the screen on the ESC fan great idea.
I’m a couple years behind you, I’m currently building a Big Rock v3 3s 😂. Your videos have been very helpful and informative!! I’m going to add the center diff to it thanks to your video on that! Excellent
Just built an XL with a HobbyWing max 6 1650kv motor and 17t pinion. I love what the Kraton can do. It’s like a Swiss Army knife.
I have the Max6 and 4985. Also have a Castle 1717 and 8s Momba Monster. The Hobbywing setup is superior to the pricier Castle system.
My build is an M2C Racing Chassis with all the Hot Racing parts for the Kraton, I call it Black Ice Kraton. Other parts include Pro-Line, RPM suspension arms and front bumper & HD rear wing mount.
Do you know if the kraton v3 take new model parts from the v4 or v5 kraton 6s? I got a kraton v3 and thinking about getting back into the hobby.
Awesome video AJ.
I want one Haha! Looks like a great build buddy! Thanks for the info
Great video as always
I appreciate the video. I I have an EXB still in the box I ordered a few years back when they went on sale. I was thinking I need to get it out and order the motor and esc. This video helps me on deciding what to get. Thanks!!
Same here but I’ve been through a couple kratons . Like stated above I would go through so many ring gears ⚙️ till I figured out the bulkheads wear and get soft and shimming won’t help . Than the exb came out with the needed beefed up ring and pinion and now the satalight.. gear ⚙️ goes even shimmed properly. Like aj said they’re just not tunable , I finally get exb Mojave to not blow the diff but now I snapped axels , do not buy amazon axles they broke on the first jump . So I have it working with 1650 kv but probably a matter of time before diff goes . And kraton was my favorite rc but if you’re running daily the parts really wear down . So I replace them with the standard diffs because same ratio and way cheaper to boot . I prefer the straight cut typhon gears not only are they the cheapest I can shim them till completely worn getting 100s runs , and even if I don’t shim them I got my money worth by time the pinion or ring is too worn . My first exb kraton has typhon diffs and arms with kraton hubs and is absolute beast that all the parts 80% worn down 😂 I just changed the hubs and bearing and they were hot racing that the ball socket worn and kept heating with torch bending the lip back over , problem this time was I messed the threads up putting it the vise . I look at it like this sure traxxas Losi diffs will last longer but at a price . Nothing performs like a arrma and nothing performing to the limits is not going to break or wear down faster .
How come you can buy a exb center diff just swap out the spur for a ring gear ⚙️ and now the LSD doesn’t work , it’s like they need to metal cups and torque to spec . This is why I passed on the new BRCC only reason I buy LWB. Arrmas now if the sale too good to be true ,
Anyone know if the parts for the v4 or v5 fit the v3? I had my v3 for couple of years. This king of getting back into the hobby.
@@nc_rider_7046 yes but exb is little different, it still work
Adu racing 7075 chassis, shock towers, hubs, suspension mounts, pins, chassis braces, dif housings,motor mount. Vitavon driveshafts, stub axels, hexes, wheelnuts, diff cases, bellcrank. Gtr shocks. Scorched rc titanium center driveshafts and input cups. Rpm arms, wing mount/wheeliebar, Hobbywing max 6 5690 combo. Protek 1ktbl servo,Fkysky fgr4s receiver. Method rc terraform tires. Been building up for about a year to the tune of 2100$, but it's tough, fast, and pretty.
Thank you!
i wish i had the rear bumper!! upvoted!!
Great job
Great video. Question about the fuel tubing on the shocks. Did you replace the metal pivots completely with the fuel tubing or is the tubing just like a thin slice in front and behind the shock cap? I think you have it going right thru the shock cap, but I wanted to make sure. Again, great video.
Yes it does go through. It replaces the ball. It is a bit looser but works well for us.
The whole point of the EXB series of trucks is, i think, to have a rig with all the main upgrades already installed, to have a rig thats "finished"
Can we get parts list that you changed out and where we can get them...
Love your videos dude, I'm always watchin your content but you GOTTA start WD40ing your cars. After cleaning, I spray WD onto a large brush and coat the vehicle. The plastics absorb the WD and become stronger, the finished product looks brand new, and more importantly it prevents rust from forming on screws and steel components like tie rods. It also eliminates the squeaking that occurs between plastic control arms and metal retainers!
Why is nobody talking about how easy it bottoms out.. I really love my Kraton 6S, but I hate the smack on the bottom when doing jumps😢 Do anyone here have a solution for that? 😅 Great video and awesome build!
You need to change the springs in your shocks to something much tighter, with a higher spring rate. It helps to put a slightly higher spring rate in the back than the front too.
Is it just me or can I not find the Arrma Talion exb on the Arrma website ? People are saying they discontinued it but why would they do that if it was one of there best sellers ? I suspect they are making another version of it ? I like the Kraton exb as well id be temped to get to.
I hope they make a 1/5th scale one.
Talion EXB 6s was discontinued at the start of the year (or earlier?) along with v1 exb kraton and outcast. They just announced a new v2 exb Kraton so hopefully the others will be back soon
Hi there, how did you manage to install the 35kg servo? i bought the FT5330M and it seems to be to tall and need to put spaces, however when installing spaces the steering arm is on an angle.
We shimmed the servo to get it in, and there is a bit of an angle to the arm. We did shim the arm slightly to even up the arm a bit.
i was given an Arma without body and i dont know what model it is to get parts. How do i know what arma i have? Can i send you photos?
Is this for the new Kraton 6s 1/8 scale EXB? If so, I'm looking to put a wheelie bar on it. And i broke the wing mount. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance
This one is not the V2 EXB. I wish I could help with the wheelie bar but I have no replacements for the TBone racing one yet. Perhaps one will come on the market soon for the V2. If you find one please pass that info along to us here. It would be great info to share. Thanks😎👍
I got a kraton v3 6s i had a couple years ago. I want to get back into the hobby. Does anyone know if I can use v4 or v5 parts to swap to my v3?
I’m unsure. We haven’t had a v3 here. Wish I could help.
The v5 rpm arms for the rear are garbage. I run them on the front and they do well. Stock on the rear. The v4 rpm arms sag over time and flex too much. When you have hard impact, the shock pushes against the center of the arm and the arm it’s self bows. That’s why v5 up front and stock on the back is my recommendation and go-to set up
Thanks for sharing 😎👍
Working on yet another Mojave 6s. Trying something new, an all metal build ADU 4mm chassis, M2C, Vitavon, Scorthed titanium, CRCU.. named it HeavyMetal😎
should be named -where did all my money go!🤑👀🫡