For anyone looking to make their diffs dang near indestructible, I use the optional arrma aluminum diff cases with Vitavon hardened spider gears and M2C hardened out drives. Don't forget to shim them properly. I use the hot racing bulk heads to reduce flex, but this is not a must unless you do big air. His advice about the rpm wing mount is a must if you use the aluminum bulk heads though because the will snap the screws off with the stock wing mount at the mounting points. I've been running this setup in my kraton xl for over a year on 8s and other than snapping axle pins due to the power, no diff issues. Sorry for the novel. I just love RC.
For anyone watching this and wondering what a good diff fluid set up is - since it's specifically not covered in the video - 60k/500k/30k front/middle/rear is a setup that gets recommended a lot across the various forums and Facebook groups. That setup worked out really well for me. I set my punch to 6 on the stock electronics, and I did not find the truck difficult to handle at all. I was doing backflips after just 15 minutes or so of getting used to the truck and playing it safe. I was a total noob to stunting and had never done a backflip before. My only prior bashing experience was with my Mojave 6S.
All my spectrums 6s went bad also , the blx are good but they go bad too , hobby wing last the longest , I’ve been through about 10 blx 185s and 3 or 4 spectrums my hobbywing never burnt out , just wore out to the point I have no good wire left , truly amazing
Nice rig and built up and another very cool video with a lot of usefull informations. I personally prefer the Notorious front bumper because it matches the look and shape of the body. I drive it in combination with the Outcast EXB bumper holder, which basically has the same damping structure as the Kraton EXB bumper.
lol I remember the fluids you use , like you said everyone had there preference and factory’s use thin oil because less of a chance of newbies stripping the ring and pinion landing while on the gas like you said , you can use or we can because we’re seasoned rc guys . So that was smart probably not saying what you use , I prefer 30 to 60 in front and back and 200k to 500 in the center , I never lock the center because my style driving I would break gears or be like traxxas and lose performance to be flippy,,.floppy 😂which can be fun too , ps I wanted to try what you run and never did because I drive in more confined spaces , more on and off throttle where your bash spots are wide open , newyork newyork , have a good day AJ
Coincidence? I'm expecting a new 6s Outcast announcement from Arrma any day. They've revamped every other 4s and larger basher they have except the Notorious. I'm betting it gets dropped for an EXB Outcast. Then i hope they get to work on a new and improved 6s Infraction/ Felony.
Random question.... Have you ever done a vid on doing the end points on the DX3 transmitter? If not can you help🤔 sorry to have to ask but I personally find you explain things perfectly.
Yes shims and half or whole bulkheads aluminum but truth is by time plastics bulk heads too old the diff cups and drive cups are sloppy . But you can’t really ever bulletproof because wear and tear you can’t stop , for whatever reason I get the most time from the lighter duty straight cut gears that come in the typhon they’ll run sloppy but others you better keep tight
Well said. Also, the bearings they use are not really designed for lateral pressure and they wear too fast. Taper bearings are needed to get any longevity out of the diffs. Thanks for jumping in and helping. AJ
Hey AJ you seem like you know more than the company that makes the trucks , I need your help , I have a notorious 6s v5 blx and it’s won’t pop willies no more is it cause I need new diffs ???
I have a question... does the Outcast come with the LSD plates in the diffs? I'm having trouble dealing with them in my Mojave and Kraton 6s. Did you produce a video dealing with these plates?? If so, which one? Mine are lining up correctly, but seem to stick under load, which is weird. I'm sure I'm assembling them "wrong" in some way, but Arrma has zero instruction on how to deal with these things. I would take them out entirely, if that was even an option. (Is it?)
LSD diff rebuild 101 ruclips.net/video/-cB85ZEK-_o/видео.html This should help. As far as the outcast goes, I do not have that information. I replaced mine with standard diffs. Seemed the easiest way. 😎👍
I haven’t timed them yet under different working loads but they seem to preform very well. We’ve been using them for a year now and they are holding up perfectly. They do not have the Traxxas smart wiring on them. Standard balance connecters instead. I love these things.
So do I need an adapter to charge them on my traxxas live dual charger also do or can you run them without using an adapter , do these come straight out of the box & after charging they go right in xrt for example?
@kenknox6424 no you can't charge them with a traxxas charger. You can run them on a traxxas esc as long as you have adapters. Average between 15 and 25 minutes run time depending on how hard you run it. I have hoovo 9600mah which is close to these. That is my experience.
My build: Started out with the Outcast 6S EXB. IHN 888 servo. HR rear hub carriers, center diff top plate, center diff mount. CRCU A/B/C/D suspension blocks. ARRMA rear skid plate. I run it with a DX5 Pro.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
For anyone looking to make their diffs dang near indestructible, I use the optional arrma aluminum diff cases with Vitavon hardened spider gears and M2C hardened out drives. Don't forget to shim them properly. I use the hot racing bulk heads to reduce flex, but this is not a must unless you do big air. His advice about the rpm wing mount is a must if you use the aluminum bulk heads though because the will snap the screws off with the stock wing mount at the mounting points. I've been running this setup in my kraton xl for over a year on 8s and other than snapping axle pins due to the power, no diff issues. Sorry for the novel. I just love RC.
For anyone watching this and wondering what a good diff fluid set up is - since it's specifically not covered in the video - 60k/500k/30k front/middle/rear is a setup that gets recommended a lot across the various forums and Facebook groups. That setup worked out really well for me. I set my punch to 6 on the stock electronics, and I did not find the truck difficult to handle at all. I was doing backflips after just 15 minutes or so of getting used to the truck and playing it safe. I was a total noob to stunting and had never done a backflip before. My only prior bashing experience was with my Mojave 6S.
All my spectrums 6s went bad also , the blx are good but they go bad too , hobby wing last the longest , I’ve been through about 10 blx 185s and 3 or 4 spectrums my hobbywing never burnt out , just wore out to the point I have no good wire left , truly amazing
Great info. I have a Notorious with almost the same mods and it’s great.
Nice rig and built up and another very cool video with a lot of usefull informations.
I personally prefer the Notorious front bumper because it matches the look and shape of the body. I drive it in combination with the Outcast EXB bumper holder, which basically has the same damping structure as the Kraton EXB bumper.
Great video
Thanks!
lol I remember the fluids you use , like you said everyone had there preference and factory’s use thin oil because less of a chance of newbies stripping the ring and pinion landing while on the gas like you said , you can use or we can because we’re seasoned rc guys . So that was smart probably not saying what you use , I prefer 30 to 60 in front and back and 200k to 500 in the center , I never lock the center because my style driving I would break gears or be like traxxas and lose performance to be flippy,,.floppy 😂which can be fun too , ps I wanted to try what you run and never did because I drive in more confined spaces , more on and off throttle where your bash spots are wide open , newyork newyork , have a good day AJ
That's sweet brother 👍🏽💯
Thanks 👍
Coincidence? I'm expecting a new 6s Outcast announcement from Arrma any day. They've revamped every other 4s and larger basher they have except the Notorious. I'm betting it gets dropped for an EXB Outcast. Then i hope they get to work on a new and improved 6s Infraction/ Felony.
Nice looking rig dude.
Could you do another HPI vehicle? Possibly Savage XL?
Awesome channel! Thanks!
How dare you make that Tennessee orange your secondary body. 😂 😅
Random question.... Have you ever done a vid on doing the end points on the DX3 transmitter? If not can you help🤔 sorry to have to ask but I personally find you explain things perfectly.
We have not done that one yet but it sounds like a good idea. Thank you very much 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios that would be fantastic thanks bro.
Don't judge the gyro. The gyro always knows what's happening.. 😉
Also are they good batteries - what is your run time like
I hear people saying that they are gonna "bullet proof their diffs". Can you explain this to me are they adding more shims?
Yes shims and half or whole bulkheads aluminum but truth is by time plastics bulk heads too old the diff cups and drive cups are sloppy . But you can’t really ever bulletproof because wear and tear you can’t stop , for whatever reason I get the most time from the lighter duty straight cut gears that come in the typhon they’ll run sloppy but others you better keep tight
Well said. Also, the bearings they use are not really designed for lateral pressure and they wear too fast. Taper bearings are needed to get any longevity out of the diffs. Thanks for jumping in and helping. AJ
Hey AJ you seem like you know more than the company that makes the trucks , I need your help , I have a notorious 6s v5 blx and it’s won’t pop willies no more is it cause I need new diffs ???
I have a question... does the Outcast come with the LSD plates in the diffs? I'm having trouble dealing with them in my Mojave and Kraton 6s. Did you produce a video dealing with these plates?? If so, which one? Mine are lining up correctly, but seem to stick under load, which is weird. I'm sure I'm assembling them "wrong" in some way, but Arrma has zero instruction on how to deal with these things. I would take them out entirely, if that was even an option. (Is it?)
LSD diff rebuild 101
ruclips.net/video/-cB85ZEK-_o/видео.html
This should help. As far as the outcast goes, I do not have that information. I replaced mine with standard diffs. Seemed the easiest way. 😎👍
Thanks AJ!
I’m asking about your hrb 9500 lipos you run your xmaxx & xrt with can you charge them using your traxxas charger & what is your run time
I haven’t timed them yet under different working loads but they seem to preform very well. We’ve been using them for a year now and they are holding up perfectly. They do not have the Traxxas smart wiring on them. Standard balance connecters instead. I love these things.
So do I need an adapter to charge them on my traxxas live dual charger also do or can you run them without using an adapter , do these come straight out of the box & after charging they go right in xrt for example?
@kenknox6424 no you can't charge them with a traxxas charger. You can run them on a traxxas esc as long as you have adapters. Average between 15 and 25 minutes run time depending on how hard you run it. I have hoovo 9600mah which is close to these. That is my experience.
@@maxcurry9667 can you provide link for adapters please ( male to female that kind of thing) please and where to get them please
@kenknox6424 pretty easy to find. They are all over ebay.
My build: Started out with the Outcast 6S EXB. IHN 888 servo. HR rear hub carriers, center diff top plate, center diff mount. CRCU A/B/C/D suspension blocks. ARRMA rear skid plate. I run it with a DX5 Pro.
Thank you for sharing 😎👍