I am a union tech/installer , with 43 years of experience. . I have installed many different brands of mini-splits . There are many specific tools that make these installs much easier. These tools would be to cost prohibitive for a one time installation. 1. A mighty bracket ; hangs on metal wall bracket and supports the head unit during install. 2. Tubing benders ; used to make tight bends of line set with without kinking. 3. Flaring tool and tubing cutter; used to cut line set to proper length and flare the end of the line set at the condensing unit. 4. Mineral oil ; lightly used on the threads of the brass fittings, for a tighter connection without kinking. 5. Vacuum pump ; used to remove air and moisture from the line set. All that being said, I would recommend this install for a novice first timer.
I think we DIY types learn a bit more by showing and explaining something that went wrong even when instructions say it's OK to do something different or out of the norm, which triggers me to look into it deeper. Great video to save for future reference. Thank you.
Great job sir. I can appreciate someone who would give it a try. I am a diy'er at heart. I installed an 18000 btu unit in my 2 car garage. I ran power from box (220) up through top of garage out to a fuse box I installed. I Insulated above the garage with R19 bats and r9 panels on my garage door. Fabbed an aluminum stand to mount condenser unit about 1 foot off the ground. When i mounted the inside unit, I also ran the lines out the left side, but my unit had the lines that had some ribs made into them so to be able to bend the lines through the hole in the wall without kinking. It was tough though getting the 2 lines, the drain hose and the electrical through the plastic tube that was included. The unit did come with 25 feet lines which was crazy. My run from inside unit to the outside unit was only 12 feet. I did buy a tube flaring kit and a tube bender and cut the lines down. Flaring the ends was easy, It was bending the 1/2 inch line that was really tough. But I managed to get it done and connected. Connected a vacuum pump and sucked down the evap unit and lines. Let it set for an hour and checked the gauge for any drop off. All good. Opened both lines and ran unit. I am totally impressed with it, I live in Socal desert with summers of 120 degrees plus and can cool the garage to a comfortable 76 degrees all day long. Yes it was tough from beginning to end, but I saved myself a bunch of money and the gratification was well worth it.
Thank you for that video and the warning about the lines,that detail alone is worth a 10,who doesn’t screw up ? Everybody has,thankfully I don’t have anything in the way,I just got my unit but installation will have to wait,till fall.
Useful video, I also went out the left side, but, I went out the left side altogether. Definitely a thinker connection. Make sure you make as tight as possible otherwise you will have trouble snapping the unit to the mount. Also, ty hey say, move the drain to the side to exit. There is a plug. But doesn't go in as easy as it comes out. I used some silicone caulk to seal, and wouldn't you know, it went in with the added lubricant. Last words of wisdom. Go for the 4in lineset covers. So much harder to use 3in. And also use duct tape to gather the material together about every 6 inches.
I’ve learned that when going out the left I remove the gray plastic corner in back of unit. It snaps out. Then cut a bit of an oval on inside hole with a drywall saw. Think football shape just a bit on inside hole. Then duct tape lines and pre bend the copper just beyond that mend. Also u can put a little splint on fragile areas. Definitely can’t force it at all as u found out. Anyway those ideas will help u next time.
Good man for showing the problems you had. I have installed dozens of ac splits over the years but never the pre charged lines like you had here. I can see the difficulty these chunky connections cause. You are right that you can exit left or right and I prefer the left side so if you ever need to access the drain connection etc, you can swing the bottom of the unit away from the wall enough. If you pipe out of the right and then drop straight down the wall the other side, the unit isn’t going to move an inch. I also often used to cut off the flare nut connections and braze the pipes together so eliminating any possible future leak in a difficult to reach place. Also it’s worth bending the the pipes with a pipe bender so they fit neatly through the wall.
With pre-charged pipes, does this help to protect the pipes from crimping when bending them or does the pre-charged/pre-pressured pipe have zero protection from accidental crimping when bending the pipes by hand, without a pipe bender tool?
I'm only halfway done but I see two mistakes: 1) You are supposed to tape the condensate drain line to the lineset to keep it on the bottom of the bundle. 2) I would recommend placing the air handler BEFORE the outside unit (actually maybe you did this but it's not clear). That way you can make the final call on outside unit placement regarding lineset length.
Nice job and thanks so much for pointing out the problems you had by going with the less than desirable hole location through the wall. While these systems can work that way the safer and ideal way is for those connections to go through the wall and be on the outside. There is always the chance for future leaks at those connections which can be damaging to your building and harder for the guy you are hiring to find and fix the problem whether it is the drain not working or the system not working very well. If it leaks on the outside, less or no damage and easier and faster to find and repair for the technician.
Wow !! Sorry you had to go through this the hard way but thank you for sharing. Glad you were able to correct it. Getting ready to install one next week so these videos really help. Thank you !
In areas of heavy use . Run the drain line as short and as straight down as possible. Ran mine in pvc with a trap in the end . Outside of the line cover for easy access. Clean and inspect units twice a year .
my suggestion for diy installing mini-split system, pre-bend the tubings first using bending tool for both and inside and outside fittings before doing the connections. once the tubings are properly bent, insert them from outside so you only need to insert thru the hole a shorter length of the tubings, electrical wire, and drain hose. also cut the hole downward (45 degrees) from the inside part of the wall. you may want to order the tubings as short as possible to avoid coiling them.
Great video and respect for showing your goof ups. I know when I do stupid and run together different combinations of cuss words, I wouldn't want it filmed either. Enjoy the now cool shop.
there wasn't a vacuum in the line from the factory. It had refrigerant in it that was needed to keep the unit running at top efficiency. Line sets should not be shortened because they need to have enough volume to handle the whole charge. I would hope that the HVAC company that brazed the lines used a nitrogen purge while brazing. You do a good job on the video and I like your dog and I hope it keeps working for you.
@@roberthiggins1419 Hi Robert you may be right about that I will look in your manual. Typically when leak testing after the final hook up we use 300 to 350 psig nitrogen. With the DIY Mr. COOL you would be testing with the saturation pressure of the refrigerant, in this case 410A, at the ambient temperature where the unit is at. At 70 degrees F it would be around 100PSIG which is not enough to properly test for leaks. Whether the line set is under a vacuum or has a charge of 410A just over 14 or 15 PSIG doesn't really matter.
@@ducharmehvactraining925 The line set on the evaporator is only sealed in a vacuum after they were purged by the factory. The refrigerent gas FOR THE ENTIRE SYSTEM is precharged in the condensing unit and is desigend to COMPLETELY fill the entire system provided you don't run into an issue like this guy did and don't have any leaks.
FYI, I have installed the 18k unit and even 12k on my friends house. The left side exit is for straight connection with the line set going through your house then to the outside, therefore no bends are made.
Thanks for this. I just got the 12k version and would much rather a left hand exit simply because the hook up on the condenser will be on that side. My guess is that I will still have to use a short length of the provide lines for the final hook up? It would be nice if they changed the condenser design for the hooks to be on the right of the condenser if they prefer a right hand exit on the blower.
Thank you for this helpful video! I have downloaded a PDF of the instructions for the unit I am considering, and found in the "Indoor Unit Installation" instructions in the section MOUNTING PLATE DIMENSIONS, the last line in bold print is: "DO NOT attempt a left rear wall hole." I hope this means they have updated their instructions!
Note to those watching this before their own install: the 3.5" hole was drilled on the wrong side. The cardboard template shows the correct placement (on the right). That way the bend isn't made near the connection.
That was my whole point. The instuction manual said it could go out the right side or could also be redirected to go out the left of the unit. They had a hole listed for a left sided exit on the template as well. Unfortunately that didnt work out so well. So, I agree, with this unit, right side exit only.
@@woodpackdiy I hadn't even noticed the directions show a left hole option. I was just looking at the template. Thanks for sharing. I'm putting in a 4 zone system. I have the mounts up and just waiting on a few needed parts. Wish me luck.
I'll be installing one this Summer. Hole goes to the right. Just because there's an option for left doesn't mean you need to go there. Every video I've ever seen on this runs everything to the right. And mine will be anchored to studs. I have the option so I'm doing that right too. I don't trust drywall anchors.
@@SciaticaDrums "Wood Pack DIY" states that the INSTRUCTIONS say the line can exit left or right. He had every expectation that the instructions were correct. If it were me, I'd be demanding the manufacturer pay for the fix.
@@mikeceli But the template shows it on the right. When I install mine it will to the right. Also every installation I've ever seen show the lines being attached once the inside is mounted and the lines run through the hole. Not before.
I have the exact same unit, and similarly had a lot of trouble with the lineset. Mine didn't snap off, but folded so the result was the same........call out the AC techs to cut, paste, and recharge the line.
Easy way to put line through hole in wall is… put short section already attached to inside unit through the wall.. then outside connect the rest of the lines outside.
I've had my mr cool for a few years now. I've had to replace an air handler motor twice, and now have a low pressure warning meaning I've got a leak somewhere...
That's just it when you buy on low range I hear that don't last. When you want get AC technician work on it they won't . That what I was told . How much was that Air handler cost you? How long was pipe lines that came with you know compressor to wall unit ? Go with a 18000 Mr Cool.
Good points of view here. I need one for a sunroom I'm closing in and doing most myself, but, by the time you pay an electrician ( if you have to ) and a heat and air guy after the fact? I'd rather spend 15-2000 for the unit and wiring, and save the money, but calling the a/c guy after I f----d it up, that had to hurt. It's hard enough to find a/c guy eager in the first place nowadays.
On the first generation the lineset was hard plumbed to the air handler which as you know, makes it quite a bit harder to install by one person. They changed that.
Something to keep in mind when doing this job yourself. He mentioned the lines come pre vacuumed which may be correct, but when you remove the seal to connect the line set to the unit you lose any vacuum you had. This means you still need to pull a vacuum on the system before releasing the refrigerant from the condenser. It will work if you skip this step, but you’re starting off on the wrong foot with moisture and non-condensables in the system. Great video though. Source: I’m an hvac contractor.
Im a commercial tech/industrial refrigeration and HVAC tech. i've read the manual on the installation of these things. That's not how these connections work, they are pre filled with refrigerant. If you're referring to the connections themselves that small amount wont cause to big of an issue. Moisture and non-condensable are the same thing. Air can be condensed, it just ends up in the condenser with higher head pressure. Anytime you hook your gauges up you introduce air into the system. Source: I've done everything from residential heating and air on up to ammonia refrigeration.
The system is still functioning great. Dont see a difference in the heating or cooling. The only issue I have is the wifi wont work anymore. So I have to use the remote control to activate/adjust it.
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For anyone out there watching this before installing One of these, the 9K BTU units have the exact same problem! You cannot run the lines that come attached to the unit on the left hand side.
Or run the line set straight down inside the drywall then pop outside at the bottom of the house. Looks better from the outside and still invisible outside.
Unfortunately your system is now undercharged. You need to ask Mr Cool how much refrigerant was in the lines and inside unit. It's probably 3-6 oz low on charge and the only way to fix that is to recover all refrigerant, vacuum down the entire system, and recharge to the spec on the outside unit + the amount for the lines and inside unit.
mr cool should should use a flexible copper tubing (similar that you can buy for water heater copper pipe) for the inside connection and to the outside unit. by doing so, it will avoid this type of bending problem.
I was surprised your "pro HVAC" installer left the quick connect fittings on the outdoor unit. But I see one problem was the line set has a corrugated pipe surface to make it less likely for a DIY to kink it. That inhibits cutting it off and installing the normal flare fitting. The right thing to do was to replace the line set large tubing with correct non corrugated soft drawn copper. Those quick connect style fittings go back to Westinghouse Hi-Re-Li heat pump systems back in the late 1970s, as the idea was to enable any contractor to install them. Sadly they never worked in the cold where I grew up in North Dakota, as they dropped off heat collecting ability around +5F (where 100% electric heat was needed as the COP dropped off to 1). That's still an issue even today with air source heatpumps.
I'm looking to do similar 600 sq ft Can I get one mounted on inside wall? How to drain? I am at an Airbnb and there is a head unit mounted on inside wall. The drain is what I wondered.
What happens when you release the coolant and it pressurizes the whole line? Wont the pressure be super low after and have poor performance? You should have an HVAC guy come and top you up.
one more question. on you lineset cover, did you use normal screws (like the ones that came with the lineset cover) or did you use a specialty stucco screw? you are the first you tuber i've seen that did this on a stucco wall which is what I am about to do.
The design of the indoor unit connection is just flawed. I had similar issues, except I wasn't going thru an exterior wall, so needed the lines to be hidden in the wall of the house. That connection has to be checked after you pressurize the system. But you cannot because it is inside the wall. On your install going out the left side causes the same issue. Also regarding line size, the right exit is difficult because they already bent a 90° in the tubes for compact packaging and for left side installs. You have to straighten that bend, and the tubing isn't annealed anymore. Then down the road if there is ever a problem you have to remove the unit from the wall to get to the connections. But that means you have to disconnect the lines outside and pull them back to get enough to pull them out of the wall. It's a bad design and all of them are made that way. They should pass the connections thru the back to the front side of the unit and do that under the front cover. Then you can check the connections after install, and you could replace the indoor unit without re-pulling the lines. In my case I ran the lines thru a now finished ceiling. The only way to replace the indoor unit is to cut holes in the wall.
I am just about buying a unit . I am trying fig best lay out to with and left side would be closer to outside wall . Is it possible you make hole larger so line would be easier push through the wall ? How long is that pipe line that hooks up to compressor? Need about 40 FT Good luck with it. Looks good and works. Nice job.
Wish you would've included the footage of when the line broke. Sounds like it would've made great "blooper footage" with a little editing to bleep out the cuss words.
You shouldn’t oversize the unit for the area you need to cool off. If the unit is too big it won’t run long enough to extract all the moisture from the air and result in mold problems.
Not true of minisplits. They are variable speed so it will ramp up and down to meet the needs of the space. Minisplits are designed to run all the time at a very slow speed to remove moisture.
Ya mine is a 24k for a single wide and it murders the heat then you can turn it to low fan on dry function and it sucks the moisture out of the house and literally waters a plant. So it's oversized and yet still works, the heater function is less useful as it seems to have issues staying on for days on end. But it's an option. I still have my gas furnace, cheaper than electric heat.
Great job. What is the size of your garage? Mine is 24x36 and I have a full upstairs with an office. I'm wondering if this thing can heat the upstairs too! I don't need the a/c upstairs as I have a very good window unit there for any really hot days. And, my garage has 11 foot ceilings... Thanks for your anticipated response.
Mine is a 2 1/2 car garage with open rafters above. cant remember the actual measurements (its been a while since i measured it). I live in southern california, so im not sure how great the heating is. I do use it in the winter, but it doesnt get very cold here.
I think that would be a lot unless you live in a mild climate or have good insulation. These are better at AC than for heating. I bought the 36k unit for a small house. It struggles when the outside temp drops below 30. Also, the heat output of the 36k isn't much more than the 24k in cold temps. They have btu output for different temperatures on their website. In very cold temperatures, the heat output can drop to 15-20k btus on mine, similar to 3 or 4 small space heaters.
Maybe just hire someone to do something they are highly trained to do. If (or when with these units) there is a warranty issue the professional contractor will fix it. And it’ll be under a warranty.
Matters if its 12k, 18k, 24k or 36k.. Which BTU do you have and as for stranded or solid, you can do either or. I went with solid on my 18k double pole 20 amp 12-2 wire
Although still unacceptable, I could see the problems with left exit for the lines with cheaper off-brand units. But, that is absolutely unacceptable for the DIY from Mr. Cool. Nice video, though.
Working on the same project, same size unit but different brand. The question I have is on placement of the indoor unit ... if you are working at the table shown in the video ... how is the effect of the "wind" blowing directly on you? Where I would like to put my unit is either in over my milling machine or over my toolbox with main workbench directly out from that (spend a lot of time standing between toolbox & workbench ... and a bit of time at my mill). I could go on side wall ... but it would be in the corner and I would have the left side exit. :-)
I usually move my workbench when using it. So I am not too close to the unit. I do work often in the line of the airflow, about 8-10 feet out. At that distance it is pleasant.
Its been great. Has worked well without any problems so far and I am happy with it. It can be over 100 degrees outside and my garage/shop will be in the 70's. Also helpful for cooler weather (I am in southern california, so not too cold though).
Do you have an issue with the angle of the louver (the piece that swings up and down to let air flow) when using Cool mode vs Heat mode? On my MRCOOL, when I'm in Cool mode, the louver stops about half-way down and swings back up. In heat mode, the louver swings all the way down, parallel to the wall, and swings back up, only stopping half-way, and swinging back down again. Do you have this issue or is this expected functionality?
There are a few settings (I think 4 total) for the movement of the louver on both heat and cool mode. Maybe yours got set to different ones for heat and cool? Otherwise I'm not sure why it would do that. I have not had any issue with mine.
I'm not sure if they have fixed the issue on the unit I used. (i know its not a problem on the smaller units). My recommendation would be to carefully measure where the connection will be relative to the exit point. if the connection is not at the bend point, you should be good to go. If it is, then an alternate plan will be needed
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FYI: I bought a 9K BTU unit and it has this exact problem. I would suggest planning for a right side exit.
i just buy window unit and make big wall mount hole for windows unit...than making no fuss with line sets when i realize, it was huge problem in my situation ..there is no guarantee mini split gonna last through 10 years when window unit already lasted beyond 15 years in my experience ...i seen a lot of split systems go out after 2 years of life span...its never wise to replace entire hvac with this tech for entire house , it be bad luck for homeowner that a central was more cheaper and reliable to your home for long long long time than new mini split system have no clue how long is gonna last in the back of everyone mind...the line sets are not solder in and very rigid with dependence by embedded flare nut , even newer expensive ones is not all 100% flare proof designed from other units that people have to vacuum the connections...any moister build up it just really make big mess in evaporator
yes i installed an olmo brand 1 yr ago and already quit working. if i can find a new computer for it its almost 400 dollars for the part. also used 12000 btu unit on 2 car garage well insulated and wasnt satisfied with cooling capability. no warranty because i diy'd it
I am a union tech/installer , with 43 years of experience. . I have installed many different brands of mini-splits . There are many specific tools that make these installs much easier. These tools would be to cost prohibitive for a one time installation.
1. A mighty bracket ; hangs on metal wall bracket and supports the head unit during install.
2. Tubing benders ; used to make tight bends of line set with without kinking.
3. Flaring tool and tubing cutter; used to cut line set to proper length and flare the end of the line set at the condensing unit.
4. Mineral oil ; lightly used on the threads of the brass fittings, for a tighter connection without kinking.
5. Vacuum pump ; used to remove air and moisture from the line set.
All that being said, I would recommend this install for a novice first timer.
I appreciate your real world honesty that you showed in this video.. Not everything goes according to the plan.
I think we DIY types learn a bit more by showing and explaining something that went wrong even when instructions say it's OK to do something different or out of the norm, which triggers me to look into it deeper. Great video to save for future reference. Thank you.
Great job sir. I can appreciate someone who would give it a try. I am a diy'er at heart. I installed an 18000 btu unit in my 2 car garage. I ran power from box (220) up through top of garage out to a fuse box I installed. I Insulated above the garage with R19 bats and r9 panels on my garage door. Fabbed an aluminum stand to mount condenser unit about 1 foot off the ground. When i mounted the inside unit, I also ran the lines out the left side, but my unit had the lines that had some ribs made into them so to be able to bend the lines through the hole in the wall without kinking. It was tough though getting the 2 lines, the drain hose and the electrical through the plastic tube that was included. The unit did come with 25 feet lines which was crazy. My run from inside unit to the outside unit was only 12 feet. I did buy a tube flaring kit and a tube bender and cut the lines down. Flaring the ends was easy, It was bending the 1/2 inch line that was really tough. But I managed to get it done and connected. Connected a vacuum pump and sucked down the evap unit and lines. Let it set for an hour and checked the gauge for any drop off. All good. Opened both lines and ran unit. I am totally impressed with it, I live in Socal desert with summers of 120 degrees plus and can cool the garage to a comfortable 76 degrees all day long. Yes it was tough from beginning to end, but I saved myself a bunch of money and the gratification was well worth it.
nice! you did it all
How many square foot garage can the 18K BTU unit handle?
Thanks very much for the video. I am installing one of these shortly, and we learn from our mistakes ... or even better, from someone else's mistakes.
Great that you explain your mistake, that should help others.
Thank you for that video and the warning about the lines,that detail alone is worth a 10,who doesn’t screw up ? Everybody has,thankfully I don’t have anything in the way,I just got my unit but installation will have to wait,till fall.
Useful video, I also went out the left side, but, I went out the left side altogether. Definitely a thinker connection. Make sure you make as tight as possible otherwise you will have trouble snapping the unit to the mount.
Also, ty hey say, move the drain to the side to exit. There is a plug. But doesn't go in as easy as it comes out. I used some silicone caulk to seal, and wouldn't you know, it went in with the added lubricant.
Last words of wisdom. Go for the 4in lineset covers. So much harder to use 3in. And also use duct tape to gather the material together about every 6 inches.
I’ve learned that when going out the left I remove the gray plastic corner in back of unit. It snaps out. Then cut a bit of an oval on inside hole with a drywall saw. Think football shape just a bit on inside hole. Then duct tape lines and pre bend the copper just beyond that mend. Also u can put a little splint on fragile areas. Definitely can’t force it at all as u found out. Anyway those ideas will help u next time.
Good man for showing the problems you had. I have installed dozens of ac splits over the years but never the pre charged lines like you had here. I can see the difficulty these chunky connections cause. You are right that you can exit left or right and I prefer the left side so if you ever need to access the drain connection etc, you can swing the bottom of the unit away from the wall enough. If you pipe out of the right and then drop straight down the wall the other side, the unit isn’t going to move an inch.
I also often used to cut off the flare nut connections and braze the pipes together so eliminating any possible future leak in a difficult to reach place.
Also it’s worth bending the the pipes with a pipe bender so they fit neatly through the wall.
With pre-charged pipes, does this help to protect the pipes from crimping when bending them or does the pre-charged/pre-pressured pipe have zero protection from accidental crimping when bending the pipes by hand, without a pipe bender tool?
Good advice! I have only installed a few of these, but always put it where the pipes from,Evap go,straight out.
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO!! i plan to install 2 of these in my small house. I will for sure need an electrician / HVAC person.
Funny that you made the connection on the inside before mounting the head unit. I woulda been so pissed when I figured out I did that wrong. 🤣
I'm only halfway done but I see two mistakes:
1) You are supposed to tape the condensate drain line to the lineset to keep it on the bottom of the bundle.
2) I would recommend placing the air handler BEFORE the outside unit (actually maybe you did this but it's not clear). That way you can make the final call on outside unit placement regarding lineset length.
Appreciate the honesty here, as I am thinking of installing a unit the same size as yours…..Thank you and nice job!
Nice job and thanks so much for pointing out the problems you had by going with the less than desirable hole location through the wall. While these systems can work that way the safer and ideal way is for those connections to go through the wall and be on the outside. There is always the chance for future leaks at those connections which can be damaging to your building and harder for the guy you are hiring to find and fix the problem whether it is the drain not working or the system not working very well. If it leaks on the outside, less or no damage and easier and faster to find and repair for the technician.
Always love when people are honest. Shut happens, keep it up!
Wow !! Sorry you had to go through this the hard way but thank you for sharing. Glad you were able to correct it. Getting ready to install one next week so these videos really help. Thank you !
In areas of heavy use . Run the drain line as short and as straight down as possible. Ran mine in pvc with a trap in the end . Outside of the line cover for easy access. Clean and inspect units twice a year .
my suggestion for diy installing mini-split system, pre-bend the tubings first using bending tool for both and inside and outside fittings before doing the connections. once the tubings are properly bent, insert them from outside so you only need to insert thru the hole a shorter length of the tubings, electrical wire, and drain hose. also cut the hole downward (45 degrees) from the inside part of the wall. you may want to order the tubings as short as possible to avoid coiling them.
Great video and respect for showing your goof ups. I know when I do stupid and run together different combinations of cuss words, I wouldn't want it filmed either. Enjoy the now cool shop.
Haha! Thanks!
Installed my first Mr. Cool back in 1921, will be installing another one next week…
there wasn't a vacuum in the line from the factory. It had refrigerant in it that was needed to keep the unit running at top efficiency. Line sets should not be shortened because they need to have enough volume to handle the whole charge. I would hope that the HVAC company that brazed the lines used a nitrogen purge while brazing. You do a good job on the video and I like your dog and I hope it keeps working for you.
Pretty sure the lines are vacuum sealed and the the refrigerant is in the compressor and released into the lines and throughout.
@@roberthiggins1419 Hi Robert you may be right about that I will look in your manual. Typically when leak testing after the final hook up we use 300 to 350 psig nitrogen. With the DIY Mr. COOL you would be testing with the saturation pressure of the refrigerant, in this case 410A, at the ambient temperature where the unit is at. At 70 degrees F it would be around 100PSIG which is not enough to properly test for leaks. Whether the line set is under a vacuum or has a charge of 410A just over 14 or 15 PSIG doesn't really matter.
@@ducharmehvactraining925 The line set on the evaporator is only sealed in a vacuum after they were purged by the factory. The refrigerent gas FOR THE ENTIRE SYSTEM is precharged in the condensing unit and is desigend to COMPLETELY fill the entire system provided you don't run into an issue like this guy did and don't have any leaks.
FYI, I have installed the 18k unit and even 12k on my friends house. The left side exit is for straight connection with the line set going through your house then to the outside, therefore no bends are made.
Thanks for this. I just got the 12k version and would much rather a left hand exit simply because the hook up on the condenser will be on that side. My guess is that I will still have to use a short length of the provide lines for the final hook up?
It would be nice if they changed the condenser design for the hooks to be on the right of the condenser if they prefer a right hand exit on the blower.
Thanks for posting this video! I need a 24k and would have probably done the same thing. Now I can avoid that mess. Thanks again!
Thank you for this helpful video! I have downloaded a PDF of the instructions for the unit I am considering, and found in the "Indoor Unit Installation" instructions in the section MOUNTING PLATE DIMENSIONS, the last line in bold print is: "DO NOT attempt a left rear wall hole." I hope this means they have updated their instructions!
Im glad they fixed that!
Great video with install and what to watch out for. I need one of these in my garage now.
Thanks! And it is really nice to make the working space more comfortable for sure
Note to those watching this before their own install: the 3.5" hole was drilled on the wrong side. The cardboard template shows the correct placement (on the right). That way the bend isn't made near the connection.
That was my whole point. The instuction manual said it could go out the right side or could also be redirected to go out the left of the unit. They had a hole listed for a left sided exit on the template as well. Unfortunately that didnt work out so well. So, I agree, with this unit, right side exit only.
@@woodpackdiy I hadn't even noticed the directions show a left hole option. I was just looking at the template. Thanks for sharing. I'm putting in a 4 zone system. I have the mounts up and just waiting on a few needed parts. Wish me luck.
I'll be installing one this Summer. Hole goes to the right. Just because there's an option for left doesn't mean you need to go there. Every video I've ever seen on this runs everything to the right. And mine will be anchored to studs. I have the option so I'm doing that right too. I don't trust drywall anchors.
@@SciaticaDrums "Wood Pack DIY" states that the INSTRUCTIONS say the line can exit left or right. He had every expectation that the instructions were correct. If it were me, I'd be demanding the manufacturer pay for the fix.
@@mikeceli But the template shows it on the right. When I install mine it will to the right. Also every installation I've ever seen show the lines being attached once the inside is mounted and the lines run through the hole. Not before.
I have the exact same unit, and similarly had a lot of trouble with the lineset. Mine didn't snap off, but folded so the result was the same........call out the AC techs to cut, paste, and recharge the line.
Easy way to put line through hole in wall is… put short section already attached to inside unit through the wall.. then outside connect the rest of the lines outside.
then you need to vacuum that short section.
@@jungapo2 no.
It’s a big difference
Awesome video!
Nice job!
I've had my mr cool for a few years now. I've had to replace an air handler motor twice, and now have a low pressure warning meaning I've got a leak somewhere...
That's just it when you buy on low range I hear that don't last. When you want get AC technician work on it they won't . That what I was told . How much was that Air handler cost you? How long was pipe lines that came with you know compressor to wall unit ? Go with a 18000 Mr Cool.
Looks fine. Live and learn.
Oh almost forgot. Love your assistant/supervisor Bob Barker!!!
Good points of view here. I need one for a sunroom I'm closing in and doing most myself, but, by the time you pay an electrician ( if you have to ) and a heat and air guy after the fact? I'd rather spend 15-2000 for the unit and wiring, and save the money, but calling the a/c guy after I f----d it up, that had to hurt. It's hard enough to find a/c guy eager in the first place nowadays.
I always figured the next dog I’d get that I’d name Bob Barker.
He was not soddering he was brazing the line
Yes I know. It was a simple word choice error.
On the first generation the lineset was hard plumbed to the air handler which as you know, makes it quite a bit harder to install by one person. They changed that.
You should install an overcurrent and light strikes protection like an ICM 493 - 30 amp .
Something to keep in mind when doing this job yourself. He mentioned the lines come pre vacuumed which may be correct, but when you remove the seal to connect the line set to the unit you lose any vacuum you had. This means you still need to pull a vacuum on the system before releasing the refrigerant from the condenser. It will work if you skip this step, but you’re starting off on the wrong foot with moisture and non-condensables in the system. Great video though.
Source: I’m an hvac contractor.
Im a commercial tech/industrial refrigeration and HVAC tech. i've read the manual on the installation of these things. That's not how these connections work, they are pre filled with refrigerant. If you're referring to the connections themselves that small amount wont cause to big of an issue.
Moisture and non-condensable are the same thing. Air can be condensed, it just ends up in the condenser with higher head pressure. Anytime you hook your gauges up you introduce air into the system.
Source: I've done everything from residential heating and air on up to ammonia refrigeration.
Love the Video and PUP!!! you guys look great together. lol
Thank you!
You should do an update on how the system is working. I'm looking into installing a system myself. Most of the videos I've seen seem to be sponsored
The system is still functioning great. Dont see a difference in the heating or cooling. The only issue I have is the wifi wont work anymore. So I have to use the remote control to activate/adjust it.
For anyone out there watching this before installing One of these, the 9K BTU units have the exact same problem! You cannot run the lines that come attached to the unit on the left hand side.
Thats not solder, thats brazing, you couldn't have done this either, you made the right choice by calling the ac guy.
P
Or run the line set straight down inside the drywall then pop outside at the bottom of the house. Looks better from the outside and still invisible outside.
Unfortunately your system is now undercharged. You need to ask Mr Cool how much refrigerant was in the lines and inside unit. It's probably 3-6 oz low on charge and the only way to fix that is to recover all refrigerant, vacuum down the entire system, and recharge to the spec on the outside unit + the amount for the lines and inside unit.
I named my dog Bob Barker too!
Haha! awesome!
mr cool should should use a flexible copper tubing (similar that you can buy for water heater copper pipe) for the inside connection and to the outside unit. by doing so, it will avoid this type of bending problem.
Flex tubing can not withstand the pressure of the refrigerant
Thanks brother
I was surprised your "pro HVAC" installer left the quick connect fittings on the outdoor unit. But I see one problem was the line set has a corrugated pipe surface to make it less likely for a DIY to kink it. That inhibits cutting it off and installing the normal flare fitting. The right thing to do was to replace the line set large tubing with correct non corrugated soft drawn copper. Those quick connect style fittings go back to Westinghouse Hi-Re-Li heat pump systems back in the late 1970s, as the idea was to enable any contractor to install them. Sadly they never worked in the cold where I grew up in North Dakota, as they dropped off heat collecting ability around +5F (where 100% electric heat was needed as the COP dropped off to 1). That's still an issue even today with air source heatpumps.
I'm looking to do similar
600 sq ft
Can I get one mounted on inside wall? How to drain? I am at an Airbnb and there is a head unit mounted on inside wall. The drain is what I wondered.
I got an ad for mrcool before this video
Good heads up. Thanks
Thanks for sharing... I was questioning that very thing myself! Also on a 24K head....
Connecting behind unit always turns out being a disaster. Always try to go out through the wall.
I wish you had showed the contractors setup when he recharged the line set
What happens when you release the coolant and it pressurizes the whole line? Wont the pressure be super low after and have poor performance? You should have an HVAC guy come and top you up.
I'm getting the 24,000 BTU for my tractor trailer and a suggestion
Definitely paying the puppy tax sir...well done :)
Should have left that line set off until unit mounted.
one more question. on you lineset cover, did you use normal screws (like the ones that came with the lineset cover) or did you use a specialty stucco screw? you are the first you tuber i've seen that did this on a stucco wall which is what I am about to do.
Its been a while since the installation. I think I used tapcons but not 100% sure.
The design of the indoor unit connection is just flawed. I had similar issues, except I wasn't going thru an exterior wall, so needed the lines to be hidden in the wall of the house. That connection has to be checked after you pressurize the system. But you cannot because it is inside the wall. On your install going out the left side causes the same issue. Also regarding line size, the right exit is difficult because they already bent a 90° in the tubes for compact packaging and for left side installs. You have to straighten that bend, and the tubing isn't annealed anymore.
Then down the road if there is ever a problem you have to remove the unit from the wall to get to the connections. But that means you have to disconnect the lines outside and pull them back to get enough to pull them out of the wall. It's a bad design and all of them are made that way.
They should pass the connections thru the back to the front side of the unit and do that under the front cover. Then you can check the connections after install, and you could replace the indoor unit without re-pulling the lines. In my case I ran the lines thru a now finished ceiling. The only way to replace the indoor unit is to cut holes in the wall.
Dam i feel you
I am just about buying a unit . I am trying fig best lay out to with and left side would be closer to outside wall . Is it possible you make hole larger so line would be easier push through the wall ? How long is that pipe line that hooks up to compressor? Need about 40 FT Good luck with it. Looks good and works. Nice job.
What did the pros charge you?
Wish you would've included the footage of when the line broke. Sounds like it would've made great "blooper footage" with a little editing to bleep out the cuss words.
Its not solder its braze with silflux. Way hotter and harder.
What is diameter size of the liquid tight conduit need you happen you use? Thanks
Nice dog!
I wonder on the left side would a right angle fitting have been lined up with the hole in the wall?
possibly, but the two lines are slightly offset for the connections, so it could also create a pinch on one of them.
Did you discuss the line set stiffness with Mr. Cool? If yes, what did they have to say?
This wasnt a sponsored build, so I dont have a direct line of communication. And I didnt bother trying to send in a message through customer service.
We want the footage !! Also, you should've titled this video DIY FAIL!! it would get you more views!
how is the unit holding up ? what size garage do you have?
2 1/2 car garage with open rafters above. Its still working perfectly.
Fuses???
No wall insulation when you put in the tube?
Why didnt you go out the right side?
There is a gas line in the wall right where I would have needed to drill in the location I wanted the unit mounted
You shouldn’t oversize the unit for the area you need to cool off. If the unit is too big it won’t run long enough to extract all the moisture from the air and result in mold problems.
Not true of minisplits. They are variable speed so it will ramp up and down to meet the needs of the space. Minisplits are designed to run all the time at a very slow speed to remove moisture.
Ya mine is a 24k for a single wide and it murders the heat then you can turn it to low fan on dry function and it sucks the moisture out of the house and literally waters a plant. So it's oversized and yet still works, the heater function is less useful as it seems to have issues staying on for days on end. But it's an option. I still have my gas furnace, cheaper than electric heat.
Great job. What is the size of your garage? Mine is 24x36 and I have a full upstairs with an office. I'm wondering if this thing can heat the upstairs too! I don't need the a/c upstairs as I have a very good window unit there for any really hot days. And, my garage has 11 foot ceilings... Thanks for your anticipated response.
Mine is a 2 1/2 car garage with open rafters above. cant remember the actual measurements (its been a while since i measured it). I live in southern california, so im not sure how great the heating is. I do use it in the winter, but it doesnt get very cold here.
@@woodpackdiy Thanks again.
I think that would be a lot unless you live in a mild climate or have good insulation. These are better at AC than for heating. I bought the 36k unit for a small house. It struggles when the outside temp drops below 30. Also, the heat output of the 36k isn't much more than the 24k in cold temps. They have btu output for different temperatures on their website. In very cold temperatures, the heat output can drop to 15-20k btus on mine, similar to 3 or 4 small space heaters.
Great video!!! Question, I picked up the same disconnect box, what size fuses did you use for each side of the poles??
I think I did 30 amp. Not 100% sure I remember correctly though
Maybe just hire someone to do something they are highly trained to do. If (or when with these units) there is a warranty issue the professional contractor will fix it. And it’ll be under a warranty.
Also depending on the country (I don't know the US law) installing an AC yourself may be illegal to do by non authorized people.
If your dog is Bob Baker, then shouldn't your show tune be the theme from The Price is Right?
What gauge wiring and breaker for the 240V circuit? Stranded or solid conductors?
Matters if its 12k, 18k, 24k or 36k.. Which BTU do you have and as for stranded or solid, you can do either or. I went with solid on my 18k double pole 20 amp 12-2 wire
Although still unacceptable, I could see the problems with left exit for the lines with cheaper off-brand units. But, that is absolutely unacceptable for the DIY from Mr. Cool. Nice video, though.
Working on the same project, same size unit but different brand. The question I have is on placement of the indoor unit ... if you are working at the table shown in the video ... how is the effect of the "wind" blowing directly on you? Where I would like to put my unit is either in over my milling machine or over my toolbox with main workbench directly out from that (spend a lot of time standing between toolbox & workbench ... and a bit of time at my mill).
I could go on side wall ... but it would be in the corner and I would have the left side exit. :-)
I usually move my workbench when using it. So I am not too close to the unit. I do work often in the line of the airflow, about 8-10 feet out. At that distance it is pleasant.
how was the hole saw through the stucco?
It did ok. I got the bit rated for metal since there is mesh underneath. It made it through, but the bit was done after that one use.
It is a year later now. How does it work? Happy with it?
Its been great. Has worked well without any problems so far and I am happy with it. It can be over 100 degrees outside and my garage/shop will be in the 70's. Also helpful for cooler weather (I am in southern california, so not too cold though).
You had a a hard time feeding the lines because you added the insulation
How does the heat work? I am thinking of installing one, but I am nervous about the heat keeping up
It worked great for me when I used it - but I am in Southern California, so not the coldest weather to keep up with
I'm in upstate ny its only 30 out its struggling the 18k keeps kicking to defrost mode every 20 min
Where did you get the pvc track?
I got it on amazon. I just added a link in the video description if you want to check it out.
Do you have an issue with the angle of the louver (the piece that swings up and down to let air flow) when using Cool mode vs Heat mode?
On my MRCOOL, when I'm in Cool mode, the louver stops about half-way down and swings back up. In heat mode, the louver swings all the way down, parallel to the wall, and swings back up, only stopping half-way, and swinging back down again.
Do you have this issue or is this expected functionality?
There are a few settings (I think 4 total) for the movement of the louver on both heat and cool mode. Maybe yours got set to different ones for heat and cool? Otherwise I'm not sure why it would do that. I have not had any issue with mine.
A/c guy screwed you also. Since he was there he could’ve properly 90’d it and still kept the unit where you originally wanted it js
..GJ..It doesn't half to centered..your just just Crazy..
I can't argue that point
Hi Bob, my Daisy doodle also says hi, good video thanks for helping me. I am looking into one for my garage.
Looking to do a left side hole. Can I stool do it?
I'm not sure if they have fixed the issue on the unit I used. (i know its not a problem on the smaller units). My recommendation would be to carefully measure where the connection will be relative to the exit point. if the connection is not at the bend point, you should be good to go. If it is, then an alternate plan will be needed
FYI: I bought a 9K BTU unit and it has this exact problem. I would suggest planning for a right side exit.
What was the SEER number?
20
@@woodpackdiy Thanks for the reply
"the wife", c'mon dude, I cannot imagine your wife likes to be referred to as that.
I showed her this comment. She laughed
thanks for showing mistakes it's not easy i know.
i just buy window unit and make big wall mount hole for windows unit...than making no fuss with line sets when i realize, it was huge problem in my situation ..there is no guarantee mini split gonna last through 10 years when window unit already lasted beyond 15 years in my experience ...i seen a lot of split systems go out after 2 years of life span...its never wise to replace entire hvac with this tech for entire house , it be bad luck for homeowner that a central was more cheaper and reliable to your home for long long long time than new mini split system have no clue how long is gonna last in the back of everyone mind...the line sets are not solder in and very rigid with dependence by embedded flare nut , even newer expensive ones is not all 100% flare proof designed from other units that people have to vacuum the connections...any moister build up it just really make big mess in evaporator
yes i installed an olmo brand 1 yr ago and already quit working. if i can find a new computer for it its almost 400 dollars for the part. also used 12000 btu unit on 2 car garage well insulated and wasnt satisfied with cooling capability. no warranty because i diy'd it
Those units don't holdup they like a microwave tearup throw away by new 1.