I did this back in the mid 80's when I lived at home, I began rebuilding car engines for people as a hobby and extra money. I did all my work outside, and would use the 55g drum and set it up on some fire bricks and build a wood fire underneath, we had six acres with occasional dead trees so fuel was no problem. I would load all parts I wanted to clean like block, heads, manifolds, valve covers, oil pan, air cleaner, misc. nuts and bolts, fill with water to just cover the top of the highest parts and bring to a boil, I would add an entire box of Arm & Hammer laundry detergent (powder) and boil for a couple hours checking on progress, we called it the "witches brew" LOL. After a couple hours at 212F with lots of agitation from the boiling, everything would be grease, rust, sludge, and paint free. After a cool down I would lift the block with the hoist and start hosing it off, years of sludge would be gone completely, one big problem is it would start to flash rush right away so I would buy a case of WD40 and spray all the parts down after rinsing with water. Parts were BARE metal, everything perfectly clean, saved HUGE amounts of time cleaning by hand, and did an excellent job, back then a box of A&H detergent was like $8. WD for a case cant remember cost, but I had less than $50 in the whole process and probably a day of time hanging around the camp fire under the drum, fine times for sure!! I live in Florida so I made sure to do this on a cool day in the winter.
Never even considered boiling with soap as an option, great idea. Years ago, I had a cauldron full of deer antlers and skulls (which I found in the woods) and decided to boil the remaining hair and skin patches off of so I could hang em up. Thought it was a good idea to add a jug of bleach to the boiling water and gassed myself good, idiot style. This seems like a great, cheap and easy parts cleaner.
We made up one in the late 70's except ours used an old car tank heater. We used red devil lye as a caustic. Cleaned all out steel engine parts like any hot tank would. We made up a stand at the bottom of the tank out of pipe and expanded metal an screen for the small stuff. I still use the same setup today. Work smarter, not harder....
Yeah, nothing strips off the crud like the combination of caustic soda and a bit of heat. I used to have access to all this stuff at work, I just cracked a steam hose under the barrel, but who has a boiler at home. I know I’ll be making a version of your setup sometime down the road. Thanks for the video.
Good video....thank you. When I worked for the machine shop many years ago...like 27...we had the exact same setup back then. We did have air agitation in there as an aid but yeah works really well. I had built mine several years ago for at home use also.
Thanks for your video im trying to make something to clean parts !! I just tried a dishwasher that I got for free it has a heater in the bottom I filled till it was under the water and jammed the timer stuck till the water temp was 140 degrees and put dawn dish soap ran it for about a hour it helps but I still had to clean the valve covers and oil pan ones I took them out 300 thousand miles I won't them to be Clean when I take them out going to try some lye or something stronger for the cleaner hopefully it will work the factory temp cut off is 167 degrees witch I thought to myself that's high as j raft puss but G E Biult it so they dam sure know more about that than I do so thanks again for posting your video helped me a lot all the way around!! Sorry for the bad words in my post !! I didn't mean no harm being funny mostly!!
@@Chris-uu3cp This is not a good idea, this chemical will melt aluminum, It might work for quick dip, but if you leave it in it will ruin it, sorry Ray
Thanks for taking the time to do the video. What chemical would you use for degreasing your aluminum motorcycle engines? I have see a few people use Simple Green Pro HD as it is "somewhat" safe for aluminum, but I would rather go with a generic chemical solution. Ever have the need for agitation? What would you use? - thanks.
Spray 9 is ok, you do need to use paint stripper on many of those parts because they are painted silver. you can then polish the aluminum. I have not yet found the perfect solution. Maybe a very short time in this will work, I tried some chemicals that darkened the aluminum.
so far the copper element has held up, if I did it again, I would use stainless.. I also reuse the liquid I transfer it to another barrel, then rinsed out the bottom , I have only done this twice. I put the lid ne and set it aside until the next time, thanks ray
It is very simple, just follow directions on element, put ground wire on tank at box., I don't want to give such directions, I think you can figure it out.
I did this back in the mid 80's when I lived at home, I began rebuilding car engines for people as a hobby and extra money. I did all my work outside, and would use the 55g drum and set it up on some fire bricks and build a wood fire underneath, we had six acres with occasional dead trees so fuel was no problem. I would load all parts I wanted to clean like block, heads, manifolds, valve covers, oil pan, air cleaner, misc. nuts and bolts, fill with water to just cover the top of the highest parts and bring to a boil, I would add an entire box of Arm & Hammer laundry detergent (powder) and boil for a couple hours checking on progress, we called it the "witches brew" LOL. After a couple hours at 212F with lots of agitation from the boiling, everything would be grease, rust, sludge, and paint free. After a cool down I would lift the block with the hoist and start hosing it off, years of sludge would be gone completely, one big problem is it would start to flash rush right away so I would buy a case of WD40 and spray all the parts down after rinsing with water. Parts were BARE metal, everything perfectly clean, saved HUGE amounts of time cleaning by hand, and did an excellent job, back then a box of A&H detergent was like $8. WD for a case cant remember cost, but I had less than $50 in the whole process and probably a day of time hanging around the camp fire under the drum, fine times for sure!! I live in Florida so I made sure to do this on a cool day in the winter.
Never even considered boiling with soap as an option, great idea. Years ago, I had a cauldron full of deer antlers and skulls (which I found in the woods) and decided to boil the remaining hair and skin patches off of so I could hang em up. Thought it was a good idea to add a jug of bleach to the boiling water and gassed myself good, idiot style. This seems like a great, cheap and easy parts cleaner.
Thank you for making the internet a better place. This is the type of content I love!
We made up one in the late 70's except ours used an old car tank heater. We used red devil lye as a caustic. Cleaned all out steel engine parts like any hot tank would. We made up a stand at the bottom of the tank out of pipe and expanded metal an screen for the small stuff. I still use the same setup today. Work smarter, not harder....
Really great video. I've been thinking about doing a similar setup. Thank you for sharing.
Yeah, nothing strips off the crud like the combination of caustic soda and a bit of heat. I used to have access to all this stuff at work, I just cracked a steam hose under the barrel, but who has a boiler at home. I know I’ll be making a version of your setup sometime down the road. Thanks for the video.
Good video....thank you. When I worked for the machine shop many years ago...like 27...we had the exact same setup back then. We did have air agitation in there as an aid but yeah works really well. I had built mine several years ago for at home use also.
Thanks, I was very satisfied with the results. no other way to get this good of results.
Thanks for your video im trying to make something to clean parts !! I just tried a dishwasher that I got for free it has a heater in the bottom I filled till it was under the water and jammed the timer stuck till the water temp was 140 degrees and put dawn dish soap ran it for about a hour it helps but I still had to clean the valve covers and oil pan ones I took them out 300 thousand miles I won't them to be Clean when I take them out going to try some lye or something stronger for the cleaner hopefully it will work the factory temp cut off is 167 degrees witch I thought to myself that's high as j raft puss but G E Biult it so they dam sure know more about that than I do so thanks again for posting your video helped me a lot all the way around!! Sorry for the bad words in my post !! I didn't mean no harm being funny mostly!!
😁 yup! thanks just what i was looking for... thank you for making the video n info.
Use one of these parts cleaners a lot. I know this much it's one dang good hand cleaner
Thanks. That was helpful.
HEY old dude.Remind me to never be with-in striking range of you when you have that pointer in yer mitts!!!
will do
this is dopeeeeee as hell awesome work
I made one out of 1/4 plate , put air piping in bottom and four burners under it
Last about 37 years with acid
Can I get a list of the components you used and what you would’ve did different? If possible.
You can use a band heater also. Might be more expensive though.
Thank you!!!
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Used it again yesterday, did the job on a 1974 suzuki exhaust.
@@rynemo I’m going to put one together to clean aluminum block and heads for a Land Rover Discovery. This will be my first engine to rebuild!
@@Chris-uu3cp This is not a good idea, this chemical will melt aluminum, It might work for quick dip, but if you leave it in it will ruin it, sorry Ray
@@rynemo yeah I understand that. I’m going to use Simple Green aircraft degreaser instead of the more caustic chemicals.
@@Chris-uu3cp Ok, good, I believe trisodium phosphate may work also.
Any chance you could post some pics/i nfo on how tou wired it wll up?
Thanks for taking the time to do the video. What chemical would you use for degreasing your aluminum motorcycle engines? I have see a few people use Simple Green Pro HD as it is "somewhat" safe for aluminum, but I would rather go with a generic chemical solution. Ever have the need for agitation? What would you use? - thanks.
Spray 9 is ok, you do need to use paint stripper on many of those parts because they are painted silver. you can then polish the aluminum. I have not yet found the perfect solution. Maybe a very short time in this will work, I tried some chemicals that darkened the aluminum.
You mentioned the copper heating element, will it dissolve it and short out? also how do you dispose of the liquid when you're done with it?
so far the copper element has held up, if I did it again, I would use stainless.. I also reuse the liquid I transfer it to another barrel, then rinsed out the bottom , I have only done this twice. I put the lid ne and set it aside until the next time, thanks ray
It is good also for aluminum wheels?or it’s gonna affect them ?
It is not recommended for aluminum, it will dissolve them.
Great idea, I have a new project.
I hope I have made it easy.
And thanks to you uncle
Ide like to do this but need help with wiring the heating element
It is very simple, just follow directions on element, put ground wire on tank at box., I don't want to give such directions, I think you can figure it out.
Do you seal the lid ba k on
When not in use I seal the lid on, you can also leave it loose when using or cover it to help minimize fumes and evaporation.
Could u do a video on wiring the thermostat controller
It's a cold water heater, why would you need to heat hot water?
Not as effective with cold water. might take some time to clean properly.
Love that Trump sign in the back.