My symptoms are identical to what you describe as being unable to go up without my lifting it - weak motor. I am going to try your solution of replacing the capacitor. This motor was replaced 7 years ago and it’s been getting weaker and weaker for about 3 years. FYI: I’m on the coast south of Tallahassee, FL and the motor replacement charge 7 years ago was $2500 USD (including 150 mile round trip charge). That’s a powerful incentive to try your fix.
Great video. Bought some of these caps from HK Koller today. Fixed one shutter with Joly motor. The rest of the shutters have Somfy motors. Took 1 somfy motor out to replace the capacitor and couldn't read the uf. Anyway have fitted the 4UF cap from HK Koller. So far working.
Fixed another roller shutter with a new capacitor. The new one is barrel shaped like the old one but a bit bigger diameter. It’s a CBB60 4uF. Ideally you should replace with the same uF value. You can get them on line for about $6, but you’ll pay a bit for delivery. I also purchased from Jaycar a pack of 8 insulated spade sockets 6.8mm which perfectly fit for $3:50 I used 2 for the connection and 2 just to cap the other 2 terminals. Better than spending $500 or more dollars replacing a motor you don’t need to replace
Thanks for the great videos Steve. Recently one of my motorized roller shutters started playing up and then stopped all together. I pulled it all to bits as per your video, replaced the capacitor in the motor, and it runs better than a new one!
Bear in mind, you can go up in capacitance value, but not down. So if the original is 4μf, then that is the minimum. A 5μf or 6μf will do, but too large and it won't physically fit in the tube. Another thing, a Class-B capacitor lasts up to 10000 hours, whilst a Class-C only about 3000 hours.
Thanks for the video. My shutter stopped working. Motor was very slow before hand and now just hums but doesn't move. Was told by a shutter company that it would cost $1100 for motor replacement and that it would be better to replace the whole shutter with a new one for $1200!! I have seven shutters. Will try taking the motor off to investigate. Was your motor hard wired into the mains or was there a connector?
Would have liked to have seen you take the shaft and motor off at the beginning but thanks for the tips, I'm going to replace my capacitor as sounds like I have the symptoms you described.
Hi Steve, thanks for this video. We just purchase a place that has a roller shutter with a broken motor (similar to yours) the only problem is its rolled up and not retracted all the way down. I cant seem to move the shutter down manually to access to the tubular motor. any ideas? cheers
Hello Steve! Can you please help me? My shutter has the following error> the motor starts, but the shutter does not move. I help it with my hand a little bit,it comes down. But when I want it to go up and help to start it with my hand it goes down instead, does not drop, just goes downward. I see no mechanical problem, nothing is broken, nothing stuck, checked wiring. Can this be also a capacitor problem, this is how they get broken? Also getting it out...does not look straightforward at all.
Sue TV Gidday Sue, I’m not an expert on shutters. In my case, every time my shutters faulted, it was the capacitor that was the problem. I’m of the opinion that you start with the simplest fix first. What I mean is this: I was told that a capacitor is a sacrificial component, much the same as a fuse, and is the cause of dysfunction 95% of the time. My advice is to do more research on your problem. I’d replace the capacitor, but if you don’t feel confident you may have to get a roller shutter contractor to assess. All the best. Steve
Hi Steve. Great video. I have 3 sets of shutters. One of them has recently started playing up. It will go down, no problem at all. But when I try to raise it, it stops after about 6 inches. I then spend t he next 10-15 mins trying to go down and back up but it gets stuck at the same point. There is nothing inhibiting the shutter. Weirdly, after leaving it for a while and trying again, the shutter fully rolls up. Does this sound familiar? I'm not an electrician, but if the capacitor was faulty, wouldn't it simply just not work at all?
Woukd you know if the capacitor is dead would LED light also be off. Ive checked the fuse and its good. But theres still no power to anything and no movment. Tnx in advance
G'day Steve, firstly thanks for the vid, this is exactly the same roller shutter as I am repairing. I found your vid made it extremely easy to follow and I had it apart in no time. I do have one question. Do you recall the size of the capacitor? The one I have tried to replace is 3,15uF and for the life of me I cannot find anyone in Perth who can supply me with the exact same replacement, even looking online has born no result. The closest I got was a 3uF and after replacing it I found that the blind would only rise to just over halfway. Did you replace your capacitor with an exact match? Thanks again for a great help with the vid.
John Searle Gidday John, It never occurred to me to take note of the capacitors that I’ve replaced....but I should have. The original capacitor was 4uF, so I imagine the replacement was also 4uF....or at least I hope it was. I’ll pay more attention next time. Here’s the details of the original: Arcotronics 1.27.6CAA MKP 4uF 420V~10000h/CLASS B 470V~3000h/CLASS C. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Steve
Is this the same solution for a battery electric or 240V ? I have battery B & W which died after 5 yrs - 3 yrs ago. Without coming out the technician said new motor $450 after procrastinating for mths/years he never came out and wasnt going to unless I bought a new motor.. Another person on Central Coast of NSW came out and his battery worked but sold me a battery that when charged for 7hrs did not work. Again told 'you need a new motor' & refunded me. Do you know how to convert a motorised shutter to a manual winder? as this is a 2100 x 2100 covering a doorway rear exit and we cannot afford it to be stuck in the down position again. The only quote Ive had to change it to manual winder is $770 which seems ludicrous but buying a new motor is not only costly, but unreliable and dangerous if it wont open in fire/black out.
My shutter door motor has started to trip the RCD every time I go to use it. The control box has power, the relays are clicking, but when the motor tries to kick in, it trips the RCD? I think the motor has gone, or maybe water is in it, or bare wires touching, or something? What I do know is that it's a pain in the A$$!
Hi guys We had thunderstorms during the week and one of our electric sliding window roller shutter with ups just died as in no power. The switch that controls that shutter has no power either. All the other shutters around the house which have no ups are all fine. If someone out their can give me an idea to what might be the problem. Thanks No power at all from the control switch for that shutter
good video with regard to fixing the door motor door ten years ago I purchased a crocodile door best investment I have made however when the door began to give problems i contacted the company for help to sort the problem CALL OUT CHARGE£354.00 possible charge for new motor almost £1000
My symptoms are identical to what you describe as being unable to go up without my lifting it - weak motor. I am going to try your solution of replacing the capacitor. This motor was replaced 7 years ago and it’s been getting weaker and weaker for about 3 years.
FYI: I’m on the coast south of Tallahassee, FL and the motor replacement charge 7 years ago was $2500 USD (including 150 mile round trip charge). That’s a powerful incentive to try your fix.
Great video. Bought some of these caps from HK Koller today. Fixed one shutter with Joly motor. The rest of the shutters have Somfy motors. Took 1 somfy motor out to replace the capacitor and couldn't read the uf. Anyway have fitted the 4UF cap from HK Koller. So far working.
Fixed another roller shutter with a new capacitor. The new one is barrel shaped like the old one but a bit bigger diameter. It’s a CBB60 4uF. Ideally you should replace with the same uF value. You can get them on line for about $6, but you’ll pay a bit for delivery. I also purchased from Jaycar a pack of 8 insulated spade sockets 6.8mm which perfectly fit for $3:50 I used 2 for the connection and 2 just to cap the other 2 terminals. Better than spending $500 or more dollars replacing a motor you don’t need to replace
Thanks for the great videos Steve. Recently one of my motorized roller shutters started playing up and then stopped all together. I pulled it all to bits as per your video, replaced the capacitor in the motor, and it runs better than a new one!
Fantastic John, now you’re prepared for the other shutters when they fail....and they will. Regards, Steve R
Bear in mind, you can go up in capacitance value, but not down. So if the original is 4μf, then that is the minimum. A 5μf or 6μf will do, but too large and it won't physically fit in the tube. Another thing, a Class-B capacitor lasts up to 10000 hours, whilst a Class-C only about 3000 hours.
Great info thanks. Got a $1k repair quote for a shutter; Needs a new motor. I think I might get may electrician mate to fit a new Cap first.
Now I just have to find one in Adelaide! Thanks for the great video
Glad you had success John. Don't you just love the inexpensive fix! Regards, Steve R
Gotta thank you again Steve, fixed another one of my roller shutters today with your fix
Thanks for the video. My shutter stopped working. Motor was very slow before hand and now just hums but doesn't move. Was told by a shutter company that it would cost $1100 for motor replacement and that it would be better to replace the whole shutter with a new one for $1200!! I have seven shutters. Will try taking the motor off to investigate. Was your motor hard wired into the mains or was there a connector?
Would have liked to have seen you take the shaft and motor off at the beginning but thanks for the tips, I'm going to replace my capacitor as sounds like I have the symptoms you described.
Hope you have success Simon
Hi Steve, thanks for this video. We just purchase a place that has a roller shutter with a broken motor (similar to yours) the only problem is its rolled up and not retracted all the way down. I cant seem to move the shutter down manually to access to the tubular motor. any ideas? cheers
Hello Steve! Can you please help me? My shutter has the following error> the motor starts, but the shutter does not move. I help it with my hand a little bit,it comes down. But when I want it to go up and help to start it with my hand it goes down instead, does not drop, just goes downward. I see no mechanical problem, nothing is broken, nothing stuck, checked wiring. Can this be also a capacitor problem, this is how they get broken? Also getting it out...does not look straightforward at all.
Sue TV Gidday Sue, I’m not an expert on shutters. In my case, every time my shutters faulted, it was the capacitor that was the problem. I’m of the opinion that you start with the simplest fix first. What I mean is this: I was told that a capacitor is a sacrificial component, much the same as a fuse, and is the cause of dysfunction 95% of the time. My advice is to do more research on your problem. I’d replace the capacitor, but if you don’t feel confident you may have to get a roller shutter contractor to assess. All the best.
Steve
How do you actually take it down ?
Hi Steve. Great video. I have 3 sets of shutters. One of them has recently started playing up. It will go down, no problem at all. But when I try to raise it, it stops after about 6 inches. I then spend t he next 10-15 mins trying to go down and back up but it gets stuck at the same point. There is nothing inhibiting the shutter. Weirdly, after leaving it for a while and trying again, the shutter fully rolls up. Does this sound familiar? I'm not an electrician, but if the capacitor was faulty, wouldn't it simply just not work at all?
Thanks for the video mate
Woukd you know if the capacitor is dead would LED light also be off. Ive checked the fuse and its good. But theres still no power to anything and no movment. Tnx in advance
how do you actually take it off from it's fitting ?
G'day Steve, firstly thanks for the vid, this is exactly the same roller shutter as I am repairing. I found your vid made it extremely easy to follow and I had it apart in no time. I do have one question. Do you recall the size of the capacitor? The one I have tried to replace is 3,15uF and for the life of me I cannot find anyone in Perth who can supply me with the exact same replacement, even looking online has born no result. The closest I got was a 3uF and after replacing it I found that the blind would only rise to just over halfway. Did you replace your capacitor with an exact match? Thanks again for a great help with the vid.
John Searle Gidday John, It never occurred to me to take note of the capacitors that I’ve replaced....but I should have. The original capacitor was 4uF, so I imagine the replacement was also 4uF....or at least I hope it was. I’ll pay more attention next time. Here’s the details of the original: Arcotronics 1.27.6CAA MKP 4uF 420V~10000h/CLASS B 470V~3000h/CLASS C. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
Steve
Hi mate, great video. Thanks for sharing. Did you also add the plug to the power cable?
Is this the same solution for a battery electric or 240V ? I have battery B & W which died after 5 yrs - 3 yrs ago. Without coming out the technician said new motor $450 after procrastinating for mths/years he never came out and wasnt going to unless I bought a new motor.. Another person on Central Coast of NSW came out and his battery worked but sold me a battery that when charged for 7hrs did not work. Again told 'you need a new motor' & refunded me. Do you know how to convert a motorised shutter to a manual winder? as this is a 2100 x 2100 covering a doorway rear exit and we cannot afford it to be stuck in the down position again. The only quote Ive had to change it to manual winder is $770 which seems ludicrous but buying a new motor is not only costly, but unreliable and dangerous if it wont open in fire/black out.
Thanks for the tips. 👍
No need to drill out rivets as that style motor bracket has a clip either side , gently pry open with screw driver and slide off axle
I’m just wondering what are the parameters of this capacitor /capacitance & voltage/
Thanks
Bloody hell just bought the new motor to replace it
Thank you.
My shutter door motor has started to trip the RCD every time I go to use it.
The control box has power, the relays are clicking, but when the motor tries to kick in, it trips the RCD?
I think the motor has gone, or maybe water is in it, or bare wires touching, or something?
What I do know is that it's a pain in the A$$!
Replacing the capacitor solved the problem.
Hi guys
We had thunderstorms during the week and one of our electric sliding window roller shutter with ups just died as in no power.
The switch that controls that shutter has no power either.
All the other shutters around the house which have no ups are all fine.
If someone out their can give me an idea to what might be the problem.
Thanks
No power at all from the control switch for that shutter
good video with regard to fixing the door motor door ten years ago I purchased a crocodile door best investment I have made however when the door began to give problems i contacted the company for help to sort the problem CALL OUT CHARGE£354.00 possible charge for new motor almost £1000