Im in the middle of rebuilding an old exposure unit (from the 70-80s). Used to run off 220v and jumped the voltage to 680v at the bulb, to which i worked on a bit ☠️ lol. And im done fixing old tech and need to modernize it with LEDs and a modern controller. Right now i slapped in a 100w 395nm led and two stage switches as to not be able to turn on the led timer without turning on the vacuum at least Long->Short; looking for a good LED source 🙃
Thank you so much for the video!! I'd love to know more about how you did the lid & latch setup! I'm in the process of building a unit, primarily for cyanotype developing, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to achieve good contact pressure without worrying about damaging the glass. Can it handle stacks of different sizes without putting too much strain on the glass? If yes, how so? Thanks again for the very helpful video!
@@DayCincohello, I would like to know if with this it is possible to insolate all types of illustrations. for example illustrations with a lot of detail. I specify that I have 90T frames
i had deleted my previous comment about plans after going back and looking at your drawings at the start of the video again but WOW you responded quick. thank you a lot man, earned a sub for sure king
Wow, nice job. I’m starting out and trying to figure things out. I have 100 watt led flood light and Get no image no matter how long: 2 minutes, 3,5,7,8,10. Zero image. You did it so quick. Very puzzling.
Just finished mine using the same LEDs. Should make for a nice even exposure! My box is 30x20 so my spacing was a bit tighter than yours to cram all 8 in there. Thanks for the instructions I appreciate it!
Hey Josh, I have a question, and if you haven't already upgraded this project I have a few recommendations as well. By way of background, I've been using exposure units on and off for decades since I bought my first mercury vapour exposure unit from Nuarc. Would you say that the additional cost of Starphire glass was worth the cost, AND how if so what is your opinion based on? Optical clarity is great for architectural glass and art pieces that are interpreted by the human eye, but since I only care about passing UV light I suspect the benefit is slight or non-existent since I can just increase exposure time slightly to account for lower UV transmission on slightly cheaper glass. The question is how uniform is the UV transmissibility on really cheap glass and will that impact the image quality? I am going to finally make a unit since UV LEDs are now cheap and easy to source. I'll use a power supply and UV strips instead of fixtures and go with a higher LED density and wattage. You should add the following, a 12v 5a power supply, a 12V Timing Delay Relay Module Digital Timer Cycle Delay Switch Module with Dual LED Display and a Single Phase Solid State Relay SSR Relay with input 3 - 32v DC, and output 90 - 480 VAC. The timer will turn on and off the UV light source that is connected to the solid state relay. This provides much greater consistency in exposure and adds about $60 Canadian to the cost, which is recouped for anyone building from scratch by not using super expensive glass. I use my UV units for photographic print processes like gum bichromate, gumoil and platinum palladium
Nice one bro. I built my A3 UV LED strips E.U for under 50 euros. Exposes in 1min 37secs. Gona upgrade to A2. Defo worth the time to DIY this. Good luck
How is the unit working now that you have had some time using it? Is there anything you would change? I’m fixing to upgrade a unit that has fluorescent tubes and would like to get your input on how well it’s doing versus just buying a new unit. Thanks for your input and keep that awesome content coming.
Awesome video. After using your unit for awhile now do you like the LEDs you used and would you make any adjustments now or love how it turned out and worked for you? I am in the process of building my own unit again with LEDs and liked how you made the cover so that it still put pressure over the foam pad. I was also thinking of building mine with a vacuum blanket but not sure If I should wait and do your approach and down the line if I needed to I can add that part later. Anyways love your content and keep up the good work.
Thanks! Surprisingly, there are very few adjustments I would make. It's worked out for me for the most part, even the LEDs I'm using. I think the only thing I'd do differently is maybe cut a few inches off the height. The distance between LEDs and glass could be a little shorter, I think.
Not sure why I missed this, but I went looking to see if you had made a vid recently and viola... you did! Great job on the build and your getting the same times I got with that emulsion out of my $1300 RH exposure unit. Nice!
Looking back on my build. I should have bought one. Had the same amount of $ as yours..... But the time. Almost 3 months. Granted I can burn a screen in 10 seconds. But it took me what seemed like forever to figure out the wiring. The light. The distance.... Blah blah blah.
Hi. this is awesome video. I built one following this and got lights from the link in your video, except I build 20x26 so half the size and got only 4-light pack. I am having hard time figuring out exposure time with pre-sensitized emulsion, 110 mesh and 240 mesh, 1-1 coating. How did you arrive at 40 seconds? TIA for your help.
Everything I've been reading about LED lights says they do not give off enough UV to be considered a UV light source. So I wrote off LED an an option. Now I am confused LOL
Have always wondered why we can't use an old projector for an exposure unit. Vacuum screen to film with clear plastic, hang it on the wall, project bright light? Projectors use lenses to concentrate and distribute light evenly. Any thoughts about this?
I think theoretically yes, it could work, but the challenge may be in securing the film to the screen. As long as you've secured it properly all you really need is a good light.
Whats up Josh love your channel bro. Exposure unit came out great led is a game changer. Just wondering if your thoughts on the D-100 have changed now that youll have to cure larger prints? I already know its not ideal for large production. Just wonder if you feel youve outgrown it? Because i cant decide between that, the D-1000, the little buddy or the Riley Jr.
Thanks! I still like my D-100. For the amount of production I'm doing at the moment it still works just fine. I can see myself upgrading to the Little Buddy sometime, or just waiting it out until I move into a bigger space and getting something bigger, but for now it's still the D-100 for me.
Hi Josh!!! This is the most inspiring video on constructing a DIY exposure unit. You really are terrific. Thank you. I am wondering if you have tried Baselayr Complete emulsion with your exposure unit? I am using water-based inks. Ryonet says that black-lights should not use Complete.
Hi! Thank you for this video! I am just starting out and was looking into making an exposure unit. I was just going to hang a bulb but i think the time for exposure will be a while. Would you recommend this same style for 20x24 screens? Or should I stick to the original one you created? Thanks!
You could go either way if you want to expose 20x24 screens. I could do those on my old unit, but the tricky part was getting enough light coverage with the smaller LED light, so this time I opted for strips that are more spread out. For me it usually comes down to how much you want to spend. The old light I used is about $50 on Amazon, the rest you could probably build for another $50-ish.
@@joshisterrific wow such a quick responder - love it! Lol Im not too savvy on the electrical part so I would probably go with the first light you mentioned but like you said it won’t get enough coverage. Do you have another recommendation of lights I could potentially use that gives more coverage? Or is it possible to use 2 of those lamps or led strings that doesn’t require me to do electrical? Lol
@@jackiejackie8783 the electrical work is totally optional. I just really wanted an on/off switch on the front of the unit, but the lights I used here can be plugged into any outlet like normal, no electrical necessary. In fact I think these lights have an on/off switch located on the cable, I just didn't really like it so I rewired it for my unit.
@@joshisterrific ahhhhhhh got it! That’s awesome for me! So I just might get those string of us led lights. Would you say to stay with those or brighter? I’m going to use baselayer long lasting emulsion
@@jackiejackie8783 I think these are bright enough. However, tbh, I haven't tested Long Lasting on this unit yet, so I'm not sure how it turns out. I can't imagine you would need anything brighter though, just gotta figure out the proper exposure time.
Did you mean ballast? There isn't a ballast involved, I think those are more for fluorescent lighting? I don't know, I'm not an electrician lol. I just cut the wires and added a switch to each circuit for the LEDs and safe lights.
The glass I got from a local glass company. I recommend contacting a specialist local to you and asking if they can get you low iron or starphire glass.
Hi Josh. Have you ever experienced saw tooth / poor bridging in your designs? I've built essentially this exact unit and I the first emulsion I've tried is a photopolymer (polycol multi-tex) and while I've read that a switch to a dual cure may give me better detail/bridging... i've also read this style of exposure unit could also be to partially blame. What emulsion do you use? I've tried a wide range of exposure times / degrees of washout aggressiveness and still always see the saw tooth. The only difference between out units is I did not build a vacuum top so I'm simply using a lot of weight on foam. I have 8 of the same UV strips as you under my 24x20 frame. Thanks.
I've been using Ryonet's Baselayr plastisol emulsion and I haven't had any problems with it. I haven't used a lot of dual cure at all, tbh, mostly photopolymer and the detail has been good enough for me so far. I've been meaning to try out other emulsions, but so far Baselayr has done the job so I haven't felt the need to switch. I actually don't have a vaccuum, just a compression lid, so a decent amount of pressure should do the trick. For washing out I pre soak with a spray bottle, let that sit for a minute, then spray in my washout booth with a garden hose, it's got a little pressure to it but nothing super strong like a pressure washer.
@@joshisterrific my foam piece is not quite the full width of the inside of my frame but it is certainly larger than the printed art underneath it. Should be ok right?
@@thlstlght if you're able to I would try experimenting with other kinds of emulsions. Dual cure is supposed to be more forgiving, and I have used it with LED lights similar to this, but I wasn't a fan of the longer exposure times.
@@thlstlght yeah the foam piece really just needs to cover the art, I use a smaller piece for big frames, no problems. Just make sure the weight/pressure on the foam is even across the surface.
Not to criticize your effort, but building an exposure unit is trivial. A real challenge is building an affordable direct-to-screen printer to lay down black ink onto emulsion. This is much more efficient than using transparencies. These machines exist but needlessly cost thousands of dollars.
Sure, a smaller one. I wanted to build a bigger one, and those can go for well over $1200. The point is you can make your own as big or small as you want for much less than the professional one will cost.
Would have definitely been better with the inside painted flat black. You don't want the light to reflect at all so it hits the emulsion from a direct angle and not diffused. I was a pre-press 4 color film stripper in the 90's and duped film for a living for 5 years. You want light straight down for your cleanest edges and that's it...
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mV5bGIswTtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Im in the middle of rebuilding an old exposure unit (from the 70-80s). Used to run off 220v and jumped the voltage to 680v at the bulb, to which i worked on a bit ☠️ lol. And im done fixing old tech and need to modernize it with LEDs and a modern controller. Right now i slapped in a 100w 395nm led and two stage switches as to not be able to turn on the led timer without turning on the vacuum at least
Long->Short; looking for a good LED source 🙃
Thank you so much for the video!! I'd love to know more about how you did the lid & latch setup! I'm in the process of building a unit, primarily for cyanotype developing, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to achieve good contact pressure without worrying about damaging the glass. Can it handle stacks of different sizes without putting too much strain on the glass? If yes, how so? Thanks again for the very helpful video!
Just built this unit and it's everything I needed for halftones and super fine details!
How much did you pay
@@ReelsofGoldMedia around 120, I had extra wood left over from a project. I
@@DayCinco What type of glass did you use and where did you find it?
@@ReelsofGoldMedia it was from my local glass shop. Normal glass. $19
@@DayCincohello, I would like to know if with this it is possible to insolate all types of illustrations. for example illustrations with a lot of detail. I specify that I have 90T frames
Great vid, mate! Many thanks - will give something similar a shot!
Could you please tell me more about the 2 kinds of light used in this project? Thanks
I brought a used ryonet 25x36 exposure unit for $200 and converted it to led for $150 it was really easy. You can find then on offerup for cheap.
i had deleted my previous comment about plans after going back and looking at your drawings at the start of the video again but WOW you responded quick. thank you a lot man, earned a sub for sure king
Wow, nice job. I’m starting out and trying to figure things out. I have 100 watt led flood light and Get no image no matter how long: 2 minutes, 3,5,7,8,10. Zero image. You did it so quick. Very puzzling.
Preferably you would have a higher watt light source. If its a halogen flood light I'd say minimum 500 watts.
Extremely genius, i want to establish screen printing company and your channel will definitely upgrade my skills…please keep it coming
Subscribed💯
Thank you for the video. Going to tackle this project this weekend. By any chance do you have a link to the hinges you used for the lid?
Just finished mine using the same LEDs. Should make for a nice even exposure! My box is 30x20 so my spacing was a bit tighter than yours to cram all 8 in there. Thanks for the instructions I appreciate it!
If you're on Instagram I'd love to see a pic, hit me up at @prntscrnscreenprinting
hello, so your return after 1 years? What do you think ? does it work for illustrations with a lot of detail?
Hey Josh, I have a question, and if you haven't already upgraded this project I have a few recommendations as well. By way of background, I've been using exposure units on and off for decades since I bought my first mercury vapour exposure unit from Nuarc.
Would you say that the additional cost of Starphire glass was worth the cost, AND how if so what is your opinion based on? Optical clarity is great for architectural glass and art pieces that are interpreted by the human eye, but since I only care about passing UV light I suspect the benefit is slight or non-existent since I can just increase exposure time slightly to account for lower UV transmission on slightly cheaper glass. The question is how uniform is the UV transmissibility on really cheap glass and will that impact the image quality?
I am going to finally make a unit since UV LEDs are now cheap and easy to source. I'll use a power supply and UV strips instead of fixtures and go with a higher LED density and wattage.
You should add the following, a 12v 5a power supply, a 12V Timing Delay Relay Module Digital Timer Cycle Delay Switch Module with Dual LED Display and a Single Phase Solid State Relay SSR Relay with input 3 - 32v DC, and output 90 - 480 VAC. The timer will turn on and off the UV light source that is connected to the solid state relay. This provides much greater consistency in exposure and adds about $60 Canadian to the cost, which is recouped for anyone building from scratch by not using super expensive glass.
I use my UV units for photographic print processes like gum bichromate, gumoil and platinum palladium
Hi awesome video. Where can I find the exact build plan for this exposure unit. Showung exact measurements and Wide and heights from light to glass?
Nice one bro. I built my A3 UV LED strips E.U for under 50 euros. Exposes in 1min 37secs. Gona upgrade to A2. Defo worth the time to DIY this. Good luck
Hello, did you build your exposure machine like the one in the video? or in another way?! thanks in advance
How is the unit working now that you have had some time using it? Is there anything you would change? I’m fixing to upgrade a unit that has fluorescent tubes and would like to get your input on how well it’s doing versus just buying a new unit. Thanks for your input and keep that awesome content coming.
Interested in that as well!
@@bozoldier Well, he's not interested in answering.
Hello. I am going to build one myself and this video is very helpful….what thickness is the glass????
Awesome video. After using your unit for awhile now do you like the LEDs you used and would you make any adjustments now or love how it turned out and worked for you? I am in the process of building my own unit again with LEDs and liked how you made the cover so that it still put pressure over the foam pad. I was also thinking of building mine with a vacuum blanket but not sure If I should wait and do your approach and down the line if I needed to I can add that part later. Anyways love your content and keep up the good work.
Thanks! Surprisingly, there are very few adjustments I would make. It's worked out for me for the most part, even the LEDs I'm using. I think the only thing I'd do differently is maybe cut a few inches off the height. The distance between LEDs and glass could be a little shorter, I think.
@@joshisterrific So basically you would make the height 7 inches instead of 9? and also how thick and what size is the glass you used?
Hello 👋 😊 can i use acrylic clear instead glass? i have new one i don’t want to buy….i think should work…
Hey I know it's been a while but was that a 40 lpi?
Great video!
Nice. For an easy timer I just connect to a wifi plug "Hey Google turn my light on for 3 minutes" ✌️
Ok zoomer
I used a timer from Amazon for mine works great.
Very cool. The link you give for the LED's off Amazon are blacklights. That's not what you used, is it???
Yes, it is what I used.
how thick is the glass ? great vid btw
Awesome stuff. The halftones look good.
Not sure why I missed this, but I went looking to see if you had made a vid recently and viola... you did! Great job on the build and your getting the same times I got with that emulsion out of my $1300 RH exposure unit. Nice!
Thanks! Yeah, pretty happy with it. I burned some 110 meshes recently and it took about 18 seconds. Not bad!
@Hina Arora that is an interesting question. I would say no, but I can't say for sure. Would love to see that done as an experiment.
What are your exposure times and what do you use to coat your screens?
@christophecreations608 I've been using Baselayr Plastisol emulsion, it's 20 seconds for a 156 mesh.
Really cool video man, idk if building one is for me, you did a great job though
What brand of emulsion do you use?
Looking back on my build. I should have bought one. Had the same amount of $ as yours..... But the time. Almost 3 months. Granted I can burn a screen in 10 seconds. But it took me what seemed like forever to figure out the wiring. The light. The distance.... Blah blah blah.
hello, could you explain yourself so that we can find our way around!
I would like to have your return
Hi. this is awesome video. I built one following this and got lights from the link in your video, except I build 20x26 so half the size and got only 4-light pack. I am having hard time figuring out exposure time with pre-sensitized emulsion, 110 mesh and 240 mesh, 1-1 coating. How did you arrive at 40 seconds? TIA for your help.
Thanks! I would use an exposure calculator to figure out the timing and dial it in. They can be found online, usually for free.
Hello, have you succeeded since then?
Everything I've been reading about LED lights says they do not give off enough UV to be considered a UV light source. So I wrote off LED an an option. Now I am confused LOL
Have always wondered why we can't use an old projector for an exposure unit. Vacuum screen to film with clear plastic, hang it on the wall, project bright light? Projectors use lenses to concentrate and distribute light evenly. Any thoughts about this?
I think theoretically yes, it could work, but the challenge may be in securing the film to the screen. As long as you've secured it properly all you really need is a good light.
Thank you for your video!!! very great job look cool 😎 exposure 💡very helpful
Have a good day
bless you this is so helpful. keep printing!!!
Whats up Josh love your channel bro. Exposure unit came out great led is a game changer. Just wondering if your thoughts on the D-100 have changed now that youll have to cure larger prints? I already know its not ideal for large production. Just wonder if you feel youve outgrown it? Because i cant decide between that, the D-1000, the little buddy or the Riley Jr.
Thanks! I still like my D-100. For the amount of production I'm doing at the moment it still works just fine. I can see myself upgrading to the Little Buddy sometime, or just waiting it out until I move into a bigger space and getting something bigger, but for now it's still the D-100 for me.
Would clear glass affect this build?
Does the same plug into wall outlet power both uv lights and safe lights after wiring to rocker switches?
No, I have them on separate plugs.
Hi Josh!!! This is the most inspiring video on constructing a DIY exposure unit. You really are terrific. Thank you. I am wondering if you have tried Baselayr Complete emulsion with your exposure unit? I am using water-based inks. Ryonet says that black-lights should not use Complete.
Thanks! I have not tried Complete yet. I want to try it just to see if it works, but I haven't done much waterbased printing yet tbh. Maybe soon!
how do you reckon acryllic would do instead of glass?
Interesting question, I honestly have no idea but I would love to try it out and see.
Do you have a link on where to get the foam you put on screen when exposing
Sorry, no. I found it at walmart, it's just foam for the inside of a couch cushion.
Have many watts is great for that job screenpriting?
Did the lights hold up? Have you had to replace them?
they're still going strong! the whole thing is working just as well as it did when I built it.
Super !!! Un gros gros merci !!!!!!!
pretty cool….. nice build…
If I buy a low iron glass , but it's got a UV coating on it , I shouldn't use it , as I'm using UV lights and want it to go through ?
I keep getting told that led lights will only do fine details if it a single point so I don't understand how these lights will work?
Hi! Thank you for this video! I am just starting out and was looking into making an exposure unit. I was just going to hang a bulb but i think the time for exposure will be a while. Would you recommend this same style for 20x24 screens? Or should I stick to the original one you created? Thanks!
You could go either way if you want to expose 20x24 screens. I could do those on my old unit, but the tricky part was getting enough light coverage with the smaller LED light, so this time I opted for strips that are more spread out. For me it usually comes down to how much you want to spend. The old light I used is about $50 on Amazon, the rest you could probably build for another $50-ish.
@@joshisterrific wow such a quick responder - love it! Lol
Im not too savvy on the electrical part so I would probably go with the first light you mentioned but like you said it won’t get enough coverage. Do you have another recommendation of lights I could potentially use that gives more coverage? Or is it possible to use 2 of those lamps or led strings that doesn’t require me to do electrical? Lol
@@jackiejackie8783 the electrical work is totally optional. I just really wanted an on/off switch on the front of the unit, but the lights I used here can be plugged into any outlet like normal, no electrical necessary. In fact I think these lights have an on/off switch located on the cable, I just didn't really like it so I rewired it for my unit.
@@joshisterrific ahhhhhhh got it! That’s awesome for me! So I just might get those string of us led lights. Would you say to stay with those or brighter? I’m going to use baselayer long lasting emulsion
@@jackiejackie8783 I think these are bright enough. However, tbh, I haven't tested Long Lasting on this unit yet, so I'm not sure how it turns out. I can't imagine you would need anything brighter though, just gotta figure out the proper exposure time.
Hello by any chance can you show you the wiring part because I'm having a hard time?
Hi,
I'am french , i have a question.
does this work for all types of illustrations? even those with a lot of detail?! I have 90T frames
Thanks
Is this regular LED lights or UV lights..?
Did you bypass the balces or how did you wire the underneath??
Did you mean ballast? There isn't a ballast involved, I think those are more for fluorescent lighting? I don't know, I'm not an electrician lol. I just cut the wires and added a switch to each circuit for the LEDs and safe lights.
Did you use 1" thick plywood for the outer shell of the box?
I used 1/2" plywood for the exterior.
@@joshisterrific awesome. thanks!
Did you buy the glass from a local supply or online
Yeah, I went to a local glass supplier.
Could you please tell me your source of the glass you used in unit ? Thank you in advance ?
Hello, I got the glass from a local glass shop. I just asked for low iron (or starphire) glass for the measurements I needed.
What are your dimensions for the lid? Thanks
Love it! Thanks
which emulsion should i use with the 50watt uv if im using plastisol ?
The led bulb is it uv or just normal led white light?
Yeah they're UV LEDs.
Anyone know what the hinges on the lid are called?
How far apart did you space the LED strips?
I used a 2x4 to space them out, but I just found that was easiest for the length of my unit. I think they could be spaced less for a smaller unit.
How bad is it to use regular tempered glass?
You'll still be able to expose, but graphics with really fine detail might not come out as well.
Where did you purchase the led light strips?
Hello, I got these from Amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B8KTFPB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
Great video
Did you change anything about the LED lighting or is it Black LED lighting I personally thought it was supposed to be white lights? Thanks
what's the label maker you used there??
nvm i found it :)
Hey! What size should the glass be for screens that are 20x24?
I would make it at least a couple extra inches on each side to give it some room.
@@joshisterrific got it-thanks!
I purchased the leds you got and got two of them -should I use them all or space them just like you did?
@@juaneduardorosas3295 if you can fit them all I would, the brighter the better! Just space them out less, but still evenly.
@@joshisterrific Bet! Thanks so much!
Wow nice 👍
its weird that i retro fitted my exposure unit with the same uv leds... yet i use aqua sol hv and my exposure time is 4 seconds?
Nice, I'll have to try that out.
can you please tell me website that you get glass..
The glass I got from a local glass company. I recommend contacting a specialist local to you and asking if they can get you low iron or starphire glass.
@@joshisterrific Thank you 😊
Where did you get the foam?
I found it at Walmart, in the sewing/craft section.
Whay size foam thickness and do they have a big piece for the size exposure unit you made?
@@tonycrn I got 2" thick foam. It was originally a big piece, like 24"x48", but I cut it down to the screen size I had.
Hi Josh. Have you ever experienced saw tooth / poor bridging in your designs? I've built essentially this exact unit and I the first emulsion I've tried is a photopolymer (polycol multi-tex) and while I've read that a switch to a dual cure may give me better detail/bridging... i've also read this style of exposure unit could also be to partially blame. What emulsion do you use? I've tried a wide range of exposure times / degrees of washout aggressiveness and still always see the saw tooth. The only difference between out units is I did not build a vacuum top so I'm simply using a lot of weight on foam. I have 8 of the same UV strips as you under my 24x20 frame. Thanks.
I've been using Ryonet's Baselayr plastisol emulsion and I haven't had any problems with it. I haven't used a lot of dual cure at all, tbh, mostly photopolymer and the detail has been good enough for me so far. I've been meaning to try out other emulsions, but so far Baselayr has done the job so I haven't felt the need to switch. I actually don't have a vaccuum, just a compression lid, so a decent amount of pressure should do the trick. For washing out I pre soak with a spray bottle, let that sit for a minute, then spray in my washout booth with a garden hose, it's got a little pressure to it but nothing super strong like a pressure washer.
@@joshisterrific thanks for the reply. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong then. It's been frustrating to say the least.
@@joshisterrific my foam piece is not quite the full width of the inside of my frame but it is certainly larger than the printed art underneath it. Should be ok right?
@@thlstlght if you're able to I would try experimenting with other kinds of emulsions. Dual cure is supposed to be more forgiving, and I have used it with LED lights similar to this, but I wasn't a fan of the longer exposure times.
@@thlstlght yeah the foam piece really just needs to cover the art, I use a smaller piece for big frames, no problems. Just make sure the weight/pressure on the foam is even across the surface.
YES! ☑️☑️☑️
Glass 160? Why??
COOL
Centimetre and feet 🤔🤔🤔
Not to criticize your effort, but building an exposure unit is trivial. A real challenge is building an affordable direct-to-screen printer to lay down black ink onto emulsion. This is much more efficient than using transparencies. These machines exist but needlessly cost thousands of dollars.
If these machines cost thousands of dollars then building an exposure unit is not trivial.
You could have got a professional unit for that price
Sure, a smaller one. I wanted to build a bigger one, and those can go for well over $1200. The point is you can make your own as big or small as you want for much less than the professional one will cost.
that music man, it's so bad. other than that thanks so much for the video
2 months 😅
$500 is too much i built my exposure box for only $180 with digital timer and automatic shutoff
yeah that's the thing about diy units, you can spend as much or as little as you want.
Would have definitely been better with the inside painted flat black. You don't want the light to reflect at all so it hits the emulsion from a direct angle and not diffused. I was a pre-press 4 color film stripper in the 90's and duped film for a living for 5 years. You want light straight down for your cleanest edges and that's it...