Oh my ! You have just given me new hope with my alternative photo experiments! ...which i have ignored for about 4 years... OMG! Your diy for LED exposer box is awesome! I will be emailing you soon! Thank you thank you for your inspiration!
Hey Danette thanks for the comment! I was just using my UV print box today. As DIY and sloppy as mine is, still making quick work of printing in a relatively small space. Let me know if you have any questions!
Thank you Mat! You cover so much on LFF - it's just great! Thank you for sharing all the time! No questions yet! But it's nice that you are there! Gary
Very cool Mat. I saw a cold DIY at Andy Warhol museum where they had the UV box built into a Halliburton case. They used it for their free screen printing workshops.
Oh man, that's a cool idea, building something like this into a case. I'm picturing in my head the briefcase scene from Pulp Fiction but with photography nerds, lol!
That was great, and very helpful. I've been interested in alternative processes for years, but thought they involved way more hassle than I have patience for. I shoot LF so this seems a natural fit. Thank you Mat.
No time like the present! It was surprisingly easy to build and it's a reliable, decently efficient UV source. You'll be seeing it more here on the channel.
Hahaha! This is cool! Just started with Kallitype last weekend :-) Thanks for posting this! I used a 365nm led flood light (for your funky black light parties!) from Amazon which was around $80 CAD. The only thing I don't like about it is suspending that light from a tripod. At the time I was shopping for the light, I wasn't able to find any really good information on the UV LED light strips, they would have been my first choice and I may switch up and do it this way now. I ordered the chemical kit from Bostick & Sullivan who are fantastically helpful!
I built one of these a few years ago. I attached a tripod mount (nut) on the back so I can position it easily. I use it for albumen printing of wet-plate and digital negatives. With the LEDS about an inch away from the printing frame my times are around 12 minutes.
Hey Robert thanks for sharing! I'm thinking the distance to the lights is something I can work on for sure. At an inch away, are you seeing any uneven-ness to exposure on the prints?
Liked the video. The pompadour is back. You should mention your light table monoprice. I saw in your video a couple weeks ago. Did research and found on eBay. Wow wow really nice
Thanks Mike! Yeah Monoprice has some gems in their lineup but as a big direct to consumer manufacturer they make a lot of different products (not all of them great). Decent long throw HDMI cables too!
Now you've opened the door to the rabbit hole 😉 I did do some anthotypes once. While it was fun, it's not something I was tempted to do again as you need to pick an awful lot of flower petals to make just a small amount of "emulsion"... BTW, nice deckled-edge ruler. Never seen one before. When I want an uneven edge I sometimes just slightly wet the place where I'm going to rip the paper using a small brush.
Thanks Francois, Anthotypes are another alt process I've yet to try. The creative freedom in choosing your own natural pigment is pretty cool. If you don't mind replacing flower picking with more steps, there's always carbon printing! Oh and that deckle edge ruler is great for tearing big watercolor sheets. I was shown the wet and tear method in college then saw one of the rulers used, the choice was clear, lol.
@@MatMarrash Carbon is definitely very beautiful, but maybe a bit too expensive for me (though I haven't really checked). For a long time I've been tempted by photogravure, but I think I'll get myself some chems to make some cyanos first... and tone them in tea or something.
Replying to a very old comment but if you are still interested in anthotypes you can use tumeric! Super easy no blender necessary and has a pretty quick exposure time of about 2-3 hours (can wash with borax rinse to make the print bright reddish brown too!)
Have you considered argyrotypes? Making the sensitizer from scratch is kind of a pain, but you can buy pre-mix pretty easily, especially in the US. It's a printing out process, too, like cyanotype. It's closely related to kallitype AND you can gold tone and platinum tone it. A well-done argyrotype can be toned such that it is visually indistinguishable from a Pt/Pd print! And cheaper to make!
Hey thanks for the comment! I've heard of them but never tried them. Having access to a reliable UV source means I'll be experimenting with all sorts (time permitting). Will have to look more into argyrotypes!
Salt printing for me. Started in Jan 2021. Still learning. Still testing. Results nonetheless. DIY UV unit using more trad BL bulbs (BLB stands for Black Light Blue, by the way ;) ) Using both contact (4x5) and digital negs (that's a rabbit hole to go down....) Def' love to see more content with these processes.
Oooo salt printing, never tried that one on my own before. Participating in a salt printing workshop but didn't practice any at home. Another one to add to the list.
Hi, thanks for your excellent video clips. When I saw your DIY clip regarding the UV developer, I would like to ask, what is the optimal distance between the light source and the print material, is it about 4 inches, or less or more. Thanks in advance
Hey Christoph thanks for the question! Optimal distance is based on intended print size and the spacing between the LED tubes. For the one shown in this video 4-6 inches from the printing surface is good. Any more and exposure gets increased, any less and there can be uneven areas on the print.
Matt thank you so much for the amazing video. I just finished my unit and am waiting for my chemicals. My question is there any place to find a emulsion mixture chart for platinum and palladium.
Super cool DIY lightbox. Wondering if this would work to expose photopolymer plates KM4. You can alternativley use the sun but I think this migh be more precise. Any thoughts? Thanks
I appreciate the video in this. I plan to make an exposure box to use to bleach paper playing cards rather than art, but i feel this idea would work well for me. Will give it a try and see how it goes. Edit: I forgot to ask, have you had any major issues with heat from extended use?
Been following your channel for a while now. Very informative. Do you have a link to that rough edge template you used to tear the paper in this video? Thanks
I love platinum because the graduation of tones is spectacular! However, I don't like all the extra work necessary to get a negative of the right size. I'm experimented just creating 4x5 platinum prints and they are gorgeous but just to small to really show off the beauty of platinum.
Erich I own a few 4x5 Pt/Pd prints from various photographers and they're fantastic! They may not have the same presence as an 8x10 but they frame and hang very nicely.
You might take a look at the LED UV rave lights made for European discos. About 30-50 watts each, 120 degree dispersion, 390-410 nm wavelength. That could simplify the build. I'm thinking a horizontal unit might make more sense in my circumstances.
Thanks for posting!! I’ve wanted to build my own UV box for a few years, now. I figured I would have $200+ in one that would still be a hassle. So amen to hope for alt processes; cyano’s and screen prints!
I just purchased a small Everbeam 395nm 10W from Amazon for $15 seems to work fine for cyanotypes. I just hang it over the work and let it go for a couple of hours.
I would love to explore alt processes more, but sadly lacking the space at home. But that DIY UV box looks nice and I may have a separate home for it ;)
Haha, this was exactly my thought process for years! Ope, too big and expensive. I took the plunge and am happy to report it's a pretty handy tool that takes up the same space as a medium softbox.
The closest I've come to alt process is Azo but I really appreciate the prints especially after seeing the late 19th early 20th century carbon work of Michael Miley from Lexington VA. I hope to get to a carbon class one day and this uv printer will be a big help.
Oh man carbon printing, now you're speaking my language! Azo may have silver gelatin, but that's where the similarities to traditional B&W stop. Both are excellent contact printing techniques in their own right.
Appreciate the info. here, Matt. I'll be giving it a go here soon. Can you point me in the direction of the rough edge paper ripper you use in this video? Thanks!
To be honest, Ernst, those prints weren't my finest work, and after making the video I was informed the cyanotype mix I was using was super old. Better prints and a solo video coming. Until then, check out this detailed tutorial from alt process master Mr. Bill Schwab: ruclips.net/video/GyOhpe-x2Mw/видео.html
Understood - thx for the link and I am awaiting the solo video ;-) I wish you good (UV) light - btw. aren‘t you concerned that the glass of your paterson print proofer absorbs UV light - most glasses do? Perhaps you can make a comparison: two sheets, one with glass and one without, with identical times and observe the density ...
I’m curious, what is the approximate exposure time for a platinum/palladium print with this light box? I’d love to make this box if the lights are strong enough for a reasonable exposure time. Thanks!!!
Hey Jim, there are some recommended heights in Tim Layton's post (linked in description) but I really kind of got lucky with the build. Were I to build it again, I'd move the assembly down an inch or two.
what would be the benefit to making this as opposed to getting a nuarc or other plate making UV light source? Plate burning tables are pretty cheap these days, and the output from the UV bulb is probably a lit stronger?
David this is a great question! As a former NuArc owner, there are some big advantages of LED's: low/no heat generated, insanely low power draw compared to a plate burner, and lifetime of the LED's is significantly longer and more resistant to environment variables like humidity and dust.
@@davida5296 Exposure times are pretty good if you keep the LED distance tight at < 12". I'd say keep the NuArc for the vacuum and heavy glass top. Once the bulb goes, replace it with LED.
Hi Mat Great video first of all and definitely the push I needed to build my own UV unit. I'm based in Germany and have only found 6W lights. I'm assuming the only difference that'll make is the exposure time, right?
I'm making a large exposure unit. Any tips you may have would be great. My main ask is I have a 3.5" x 6" glass tabletop that is 3/4 inch thick. Will the thickness of the glass affect the process?
Thanks for the question Doug! A thick plate of glass shouldn't impact the process negatively, but will definitely provide enough contact between the paper and the negative.
Hey Justin thanks for the question! You certainly could use this for a screen printing setup, though I'm unsure what kind of exposure times you can expect.
Hey John, some Chip on Board (COB) LED's come in varieties that are specific to an exact nm wavelength with a +/- 5nm tolerance. The more affordable tube and strip LED's are have a much wider variance in the 20-30nm range. I'd recommend searching for LED's in the 350 - 400nm range.
Hey Wes thanks for the comment. Can't remember where I saw it posted, but the recommendation I recall was the gap shouldn't be more than the width of the two bulbs. In this case, that's no more than a 2" space between bulbs. For a 24x36" source, you will probably want 12 of these 24" tubes.
Hello Mat, Thanks for sharing this video. I'm wondering if there is an advantage to using the bulbs you are using versus cuttable strips. According to Tim Layton's post you linked to there is a limit of 10 of these bulbs you can connect in a series. If you had a larger box, e.g. 32x40 inches, I'm wondering if you can squeeze in more LEDs via cuttable adhesive UV strips. Soldering strips together seems like a pain, but would it be worth it to have more LEDs per square inch? Thanks!
Hey Jason, the convenience here is the integrated driver vs. strip lights. A much larger series of strips will need a heavier duty led driver to supply enough power along the chain. In terms of power, this DIY box with 8 tubes is great for all alt. processes I've used so far.
Nice! I read that same article and did the same thing, just a little more janky. I assume you are using traditional cyanotype formula? I use Mike Ware version and my exposure times are 5 mins. 👍
More Alt process videos is good for me I haven’t done any of them yet, but..... soon I hope. I’ve had too many other projects like putting a darkroom together.
I know that feeling Paul, the projects never seem to stop. Super appreciative that I've got all of you guys out there keeping me on top of projects for the show! :)
I’d like to add to the discussion. I, too would appreciate more information on alternative processes. I really appreciate the info on this video, Matt!
Spacing isn't an area where I've done much testing. Generally you want close enough spacing between bulbs so the coverage is even, but also at a height from the print where you won't get visible banding nor very long exposures. 6-8" seems to be a good working height with 1-2" between bulbs for side-to-side.
I thought cyanotype needed 365nm wavelength UV light but the lights you used were 395-400nm. I wonder if that's why it took 45 minutes? In direct sun, even in the winter (here in central Virginia) a cyanotype takes only about 10-15 minutes to expose. I watched another video that showed a cyanotype being properly exposed in 10 minutes with a UV black light with a 365nm wavelength.
@@MatMarrash i saw few people using it with wetplates..for portraits it's bit unpleasant, you have to combine it with normal source, eye iris doesn't react to uv as to normal light...
I built the same exposure unit from Tim Layton’s post last summer, and it works like a dream. And so inexpensive!! I built an 11x14 contact frame at the same time, and I ended up spending less than $150 for both the frame and the exposure unit. I’ve used it for cyanotype, platinum, and kallitype printing so far, and I really love it! Just curious, where did you get the cool thing you’re using to tear the paper?
I'm definitely late to this sweet DIY unit but had to share it. Glad to see other folks out there already using it or one like it. That deckled edge ruler is a gem and found it as a used product marked-down for clearance. I'd seen one demoed years ago and wanted to have one for making "edgy" tears on my watercolor paper.
Yeah it looks like the original post is now behind a paywall. There's really nothing much to list as the tubes came with all the cables and mounting hardware. Here are the 2' Barrina UV LED tubes used in the video: amzn.to/3MYBZIx
now i can stop pulling out whatever is left of my hair. hardly any real information to guide you on making an exposure box til now. does the spacing of the uv light make any difference in exposure time. trying to source parts to copy a photo of my mother and pass on to her grandchildren. what film choices from 8x10 - 14x17. so many options. i always used film cameras only.
Hey Tony thanks for checking out the episode and thanks for the compliment! Spacing tubes/strips closer tends to be more popular, though unless you're changing number of lights and/or printing height, the printing times won't really change. This box I threw together for the episode could have benefited from another 4-6 bulbs, but it's still serving me well two years later!
I’ve been wanting to make one of these for years!
What's mine is yours! If you come to visit we can make some socially distanced contact prints! ;)
Large Format Hair.
Looks bigger than 8x10 currently.
It's this channel's defining mood. :)
Currently sitting around 5x7, not sure if the current product could handle 8x10! >__
@@MatMarrash hahahaha
More ultra large format, actually … ;-)
Oh my ! You have just given me new hope with my alternative photo experiments! ...which i have ignored for about 4 years... OMG! Your diy for LED exposer box is awesome! I will be emailing you soon! Thank you thank you for your inspiration!
Hey Danette thanks for the comment! I was just using my UV print box today. As DIY and sloppy as mine is, still making quick work of printing in a relatively small space. Let me know if you have any questions!
@@MatMarrash thanks , still working on getting materials together, and its holiday time, may get postponed until after holiday....
I made a light box using Tim Layton's website as a guide. Works great!
Another happy DIY alt process printer, nice!
Thank you. Very inspiring.
Thank you Mat! You cover so much on LFF - it's just great! Thank you for sharing all the time! No questions yet! But it's nice that you are there! Gary
Gary thanks for the comment and glad you've found the content useful! :)
Such a cool thing!!! I always just used two black light tubes, this adds a whole new idea for me ... more control I am sure!!!
Thanks Brian! I may end up making some design modifications, possibly adding more bulbs into a second circuit for faster times.
Nicely done!
Love alt process info :) Would love to see some platinum or bromoil videos.
Thanks Tom! Platinum is for sure coming and man oh man I want to try bromoil. Need to find some good "thumping" brushes first.
Yes finally a video not sponsored by skillshare or squarespace
Sponsorship is cool and all, but man I like making prints!
THANK YOU!
Love your channel!
Thanks for checking out the channel! :D
Great video Mat, thank you. That’s a great UV box solution. More alt process videos please! :)
It's been a long time coming to get back into UV processes. Now with easier, consistent access you'll be seeing more here. Cheers!
Very cool Mat. I saw a cold DIY at Andy Warhol museum where they had the UV box built into a Halliburton case. They used it for their free screen printing workshops.
Oh man, that's a cool idea, building something like this into a case. I'm picturing in my head the briefcase scene from Pulp Fiction but with photography nerds, lol!
@@MatMarrash you should do one with Matt Day 🙂
Best bangs on the internet!!!
Let's just hope the hair spray holds!
the largest format hairdo
My favorite was gum biochromate, tough but beautiful.
There's nothing like a multi-layered gum print!
Good evening Mat!
Cam here,
I finally did it, bought my first 4x5(field) camera today and have a few questions about tripods and dark cloths.
Fire away with any questions! If you like, you can also shoot me an email: largeformatquestions@gmail.com
I’d love to see more DIY stuff!
Cool, stay tuned for more experiments and DIY.
Great video, just what I was looking for, shared it with friends.
That was great, and very helpful. I've been interested in alternative processes for years, but thought they involved way more hassle than I have patience for. I shoot LF so this seems a natural fit. Thank you Mat.
Glad this could help Michael! :)
Great project! it has been on my To-Do list for a while now.
No time like the present! It was surprisingly easy to build and it's a reliable, decently efficient UV source. You'll be seeing it more here on the channel.
Hahaha! This is cool! Just started with Kallitype last weekend :-) Thanks for posting this! I used a 365nm led flood light (for your funky black light parties!) from Amazon which was around $80 CAD. The only thing I don't like about it is suspending that light from a tripod. At the time I was shopping for the light, I wasn't able to find any really good information on the UV LED light strips, they would have been my first choice and I may switch up and do it this way now. I ordered the chemical kit from Bostick & Sullivan who are fantastically helpful!
I just recently started Kallitypes too! So much fun!
Thanks Paul, glad this was a timely post and have fun with Kallitypes!
Loving all the alt process hype, thanks Shannon!
My favorite alternative process is platinum palladium. It's been a few years since I have made a platinum print or shot 4x5. That's about to change
Michael that's great to hear and let me know how the LED UV setup goes!
I built one of these a few years ago. I attached a tripod mount (nut) on the back so I can position it easily. I use it for albumen printing of wet-plate and digital negatives. With the LEDS about an inch away from the printing frame my times are around 12 minutes.
Hey Robert thanks for sharing! I'm thinking the distance to the lights is something I can work on for sure. At an inch away, are you seeing any uneven-ness to exposure on the prints?
Liked the video. The pompadour is back. You should mention your light table monoprice. I saw in your video a couple weeks ago. Did research and found on eBay. Wow wow really nice
Thanks Mike! Yeah Monoprice has some gems in their lineup but as a big direct to consumer manufacturer they make a lot of different products (not all of them great). Decent long throw HDMI cables too!
Now you've opened the door to the rabbit hole 😉
I did do some anthotypes once. While it was fun, it's not something I was tempted to do again as you need to pick an awful lot of flower petals to make just a small amount of "emulsion"...
BTW, nice deckled-edge ruler. Never seen one before. When I want an uneven edge I sometimes just slightly wet the place where I'm going to rip the paper using a small brush.
Thanks Francois, Anthotypes are another alt process I've yet to try. The creative freedom in choosing your own natural pigment is pretty cool. If you don't mind replacing flower picking with more steps, there's always carbon printing! Oh and that deckle edge ruler is great for tearing big watercolor sheets. I was shown the wet and tear method in college then saw one of the rulers used, the choice was clear, lol.
@@MatMarrash Carbon is definitely very beautiful, but maybe a bit too expensive for me (though I haven't really checked). For a long time I've been tempted by photogravure, but I think I'll get myself some chems to make some cyanos first... and tone them in tea or something.
Replying to a very old comment but if you are still interested in anthotypes you can use tumeric! Super easy no blender necessary and has a pretty quick exposure time of about 2-3 hours (can wash with borax rinse to make the print bright reddish brown too!)
@@jadebramley3540 thanks for the tips. With the summer coming back I might give it another try.
Thanks for this, Mat, very helpful, about to source the materials and get cracking with this process
Glad it was helpful!
Have you considered argyrotypes? Making the sensitizer from scratch is kind of a pain, but you can buy pre-mix pretty easily, especially in the US. It's a printing out process, too, like cyanotype. It's closely related to kallitype AND you can gold tone and platinum tone it. A well-done argyrotype can be toned such that it is visually indistinguishable from a Pt/Pd print! And cheaper to make!
Hey thanks for the comment! I've heard of them but never tried them. Having access to a reliable UV source means I'll be experimenting with all sorts (time permitting). Will have to look more into argyrotypes!
Salt printing for me. Started in Jan 2021. Still learning. Still testing. Results nonetheless. DIY UV unit using more trad BL bulbs (BLB stands for Black Light Blue, by the way ;) ) Using both contact (4x5) and digital negs (that's a rabbit hole to go down....)
Def' love to see more content with these processes.
Oooo salt printing, never tried that one on my own before. Participating in a salt printing workshop but didn't practice any at home. Another one to add to the list.
Hi, thanks for your excellent video clips. When I saw your DIY clip regarding the UV developer, I would like to ask, what is the optimal distance between the light source and the print material, is it about 4 inches, or less or more. Thanks in advance
Hey Christoph thanks for the question! Optimal distance is based on intended print size and the spacing between the LED tubes. For the one shown in this video 4-6 inches from the printing surface is good. Any more and exposure gets increased, any less and there can be uneven areas on the print.
Matt thank you so much for the amazing video. I just finished my unit and am waiting for my chemicals. My question is there any place to find a emulsion mixture chart for platinum and palladium.
Super cool DIY lightbox. Wondering if this would work to expose photopolymer plates KM4. You can alternativley use the sun but I think this migh be more precise. Any thoughts? Thanks
I appreciate the video in this. I plan to make an exposure box to use to bleach paper playing cards rather than art, but i feel this idea would work well for me. Will give it a try and see how it goes.
Edit: I forgot to ask, have you had any major issues with heat from extended use?
Been following your channel for a while now. Very informative. Do you have a link to that rough edge template you used to tear the paper in this video? Thanks
I just built one last week, used Tim's write-up as the guide. Haven't printed with it yet but soon. Only cost me $100 with 1/2" finished plywood.
Glad to hear the plans helped, good work on the DIY!
@@MatMarrash Do you think you could do a vid on the camera movements applicable to close up portraiture? Never seen one on RUclips. Thanks.
And I just got my hands on a NuArc Rapid Printer, too. This looks so much easier to use.
Having used a NuArc for years I can say it's definitely less power hungry than a plate burner, but I do miss the vacuum frame!
I love platinum because the graduation of tones is spectacular! However, I don't like all the extra work necessary to get a negative of the right size. I'm experimented just creating 4x5 platinum prints and they are gorgeous but just to small to really show off the beauty of platinum.
Erich I own a few 4x5 Pt/Pd prints from various photographers and they're fantastic! They may not have the same presence as an 8x10 but they frame and hang very nicely.
You might take a look at the LED UV rave lights made for European discos. About 30-50 watts each, 120 degree dispersion, 390-410 nm wavelength. That could simplify the build. I'm thinking a horizontal unit might make more sense in my circumstances.
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to do some more digging into those!
Thanks for posting!! I’ve wanted to build my own UV box for a few years, now. I figured I would have $200+ in one that would still be a hassle. So amen to hope for alt processes; cyano’s and screen prints!
Good job
hello, is this UV box also made for screen printing?
Sorry IAM french
I just purchased a small Everbeam 395nm 10W from Amazon for $15 seems to work fine for cyanotypes. I just hang it over the work and let it go for a couple of hours.
I would love to explore alt processes more, but sadly lacking the space at home. But that DIY UV box looks nice and I may have a separate home for it ;)
Haha, this was exactly my thought process for years! Ope, too big and expensive. I took the plunge and am happy to report it's a pretty handy tool that takes up the same space as a medium softbox.
The closest I've come to alt process is Azo but I really appreciate the prints especially after seeing the late 19th early 20th century carbon work of Michael Miley from Lexington VA. I hope to get to a carbon class one day and this uv printer will be a big help.
Oh man carbon printing, now you're speaking my language! Azo may have silver gelatin, but that's where the similarities to traditional B&W stop. Both are excellent contact printing techniques in their own right.
Appreciate the info. here, Matt. I'll be giving it a go here soon. Can you point me in the direction of the rough edge paper ripper you use in this video? Thanks!
Hey Chris, here's the site: www.dualedgeripper.com/
@@MatMarrash Big thanks!
Good job man!!
Thanks! :)
I would love to see the prints you did in closeup! Great show today and please make a dedicated show about Cyanotypes!
To be honest, Ernst, those prints weren't my finest work, and after making the video I was informed the cyanotype mix I was using was super old. Better prints and a solo video coming. Until then, check out this detailed tutorial from alt process master Mr. Bill Schwab: ruclips.net/video/GyOhpe-x2Mw/видео.html
Understood - thx for the link and I am awaiting the solo video ;-) I wish you good (UV) light - btw. aren‘t you concerned that the glass of your paterson print proofer absorbs UV light - most glasses do? Perhaps you can make a comparison: two sheets, one with glass and one without, with identical times and observe the density ...
Thank you do much! Even someone as incompetent as me can do this … as me!
I’m curious, what is the approximate exposure time for a platinum/palladium print with this light box? I’d love to make this box if the lights are strong enough for a reasonable exposure time. Thanks!!!
This is great. How did you know the height of your drawer was enough for the light to spread evenly across the print?
Hey Jim, there are some recommended heights in Tim Layton's post (linked in description) but I really kind of got lucky with the build. Were I to build it again, I'd move the assembly down an inch or two.
what would be the benefit to making this as opposed to getting a nuarc or other plate making UV light source? Plate burning tables are pretty cheap these days, and the output from the UV bulb is probably a lit stronger?
David this is a great question! As a former NuArc owner, there are some big advantages of LED's: low/no heat generated, insanely low power draw compared to a plate burner, and lifetime of the LED's is significantly longer and more resistant to environment variables like humidity and dust.
And the exposure times and coverage is good? I'm definitely not opposed to chucking my huge plate burner if the LED technology has caught up
@@davida5296 Exposure times are pretty good if you keep the LED distance tight at < 12". I'd say keep the NuArc for the vacuum and heavy glass top. Once the bulb goes, replace it with LED.
@@MatMarrash that might be the winning ticket. Let's keep alternative process going!
Hi Mat
Great video first of all and definitely the push I needed to build my own UV unit.
I'm based in Germany and have only found 6W lights. I'm assuming the only difference that'll make is the exposure time, right?
You got it, a change in intensity will impact exposure time and with alt process, an f-stop of time could be 10-15 minutes!
@@MatMarrash ah ok. I'll keep looking for more powerful lights. Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. :)
I'm making a large exposure unit. Any tips you may have would be great. My main ask is I have a 3.5" x 6" glass tabletop that is 3/4 inch thick. Will the thickness of the glass affect the process?
Thanks for the question Doug! A thick plate of glass shouldn't impact the process negatively, but will definitely provide enough contact between the paper and the negative.
Very curious about the jagged edge acrylic strip you used to tear the sheet. Where can I get that?
Hey Vishal, it's the Dual Edge Ripper: dualedgeripper.com/
Hey Matt, thanks for the instructions, how did we do?
Trying to send a pic of our box not working
Hey Danny you and your daughter did great! So happy to see folks making these UV setups for pennies compared to what they once cost.
can you use this for screen printing
Hey Justin thanks for the question! You certainly could use this for a screen printing setup, though I'm unsure what kind of exposure times you can expect.
Hi! Could you define narrow spectrum UV in term of nanometers? 300-400? Thanks.
Hey John, some Chip on Board (COB) LED's come in varieties that are specific to an exact nm wavelength with a +/- 5nm tolerance. The more affordable tube and strip LED's are have a much wider variance in the 20-30nm range. I'd recommend searching for LED's in the 350 - 400nm range.
Were you able to measure the intensity of these led’s?
Any idea on where to find specs on spacing these bulbs?? I’m about to make a similar box but slightly larger, 24x 36” is my goal size.
Hey Wes thanks for the comment. Can't remember where I saw it posted, but the recommendation I recall was the gap shouldn't be more than the width of the two bulbs. In this case, that's no more than a 2" space between bulbs. For a 24x36" source, you will probably want 12 of these 24" tubes.
found the same lamps but twins so less wires, I have to find a box now
Holy moly! Did the UV lights do that to your hair!?
As an ozzie can I please advise that you take care working with UV
Thanks for the comment, this is why the unit is designed to be closed during exposure. No such thing as good UV with prolonged exposure!
Dude's got the Ben Stiller hair from There's Something About Mary. LOL
Hi,
I am french 😌 I was wondering if we could insolate illustrations with a lot of detail with your creation
Thanks in advance 🙏
Hello Mat, Thanks for sharing this video. I'm wondering if there is an advantage to using the bulbs you are using versus cuttable strips. According to Tim Layton's post you linked to there is a limit of 10 of these bulbs you can connect in a series. If you had a larger box, e.g. 32x40 inches, I'm wondering if you can squeeze in more LEDs via cuttable adhesive UV strips.
Soldering strips together seems like a pain, but would it be worth it to have more LEDs per square inch? Thanks!
Hey Jason, the convenience here is the integrated driver vs. strip lights. A much larger series of strips will need a heavier duty led driver to supply enough power along the chain. In terms of power, this DIY box with 8 tubes is great for all alt. processes I've used so far.
@@MatMarrash Perfect. Thanks for this info. Also, loved the recent 4x5 strobe episode with Tariq Tarey. Thanks!
Nice! I read that same article and did the same thing, just a little more janky. I assume you are using traditional cyanotype formula? I use Mike Ware version and my exposure times are 5 mins. 👍
Yeah definitely some age issues with this mix. More testing to come!
More Alt process videos is good for me I haven’t done any of them yet, but..... soon I hope. I’ve had too many other projects like putting a darkroom together.
I know that feeling Paul, the projects never seem to stop. Super appreciative that I've got all of you guys out there keeping me on top of projects for the show! :)
I’d like to add to the discussion. I, too would appreciate more information on alternative processes. I really appreciate the info on this video, Matt!
What black and white film did you use for the negative?
My most commonly used films are Ilford FP4+, HP5+, and Delta 100.
What is the result with 10 mins exposure ?
Could you space the units closer together to get a shorter exposure time?
Spacing isn't an area where I've done much testing. Generally you want close enough spacing between bulbs so the coverage is even, but also at a height from the print where you won't get visible banding nor very long exposures. 6-8" seems to be a good working height with 1-2" between bulbs for side-to-side.
I thought cyanotype needed 365nm wavelength UV light but the lights you used were 395-400nm. I wonder if that's why it took 45 minutes? In direct sun, even in the winter (here in central Virginia) a cyanotype takes only about 10-15 minutes to expose. I watched another video that showed a cyanotype being properly exposed in 10 minutes with a UV black light with a 365nm wavelength.
Hi Lisa thanks for the comment. Update, I was using incredibly expired Cyanotype materials! With fresh stock, it's 10 minutes all day every day.
it's good for wetplate too:) we build 100x60cm panel for that
Oh, good idea! I know a few photographers using constant lights for plates but you may be the first I've heard of using these LEDs. Very cool.
@@MatMarrash i saw few people using it with wetplates..for portraits it's bit unpleasant, you have to combine it with normal source, eye iris doesn't react to uv as to normal light...
what kind of led strip are you using
These are Barrina LED's, link to the original blog post and Amazon shop in the description!
I cannot seem to get to Tim's website to see the blog, do you have another method of getting to the article?
Hey Craig, I checked the link and it worked okay from a Firefox and Chrome. Maybe try clearing cache or a different web browser?
I built the same exposure unit from Tim Layton’s post last summer, and it works like a dream. And so inexpensive!! I built an 11x14 contact frame at the same time, and I ended up spending less than $150 for both the frame and the exposure unit. I’ve used it for cyanotype, platinum, and kallitype printing so far, and I really love it! Just curious, where did you get the cool thing you’re using to tear the paper?
I'm definitely late to this sweet DIY unit but had to share it. Glad to see other folks out there already using it or one like it. That deckled edge ruler is a gem and found it as a used product marked-down for clearance. I'd seen one demoed years ago and wanted to have one for making "edgy" tears on my watercolor paper.
hi, can you plsa share the link for that timer (7:45). and the payper press, many thanks :)
The timer is an old Gralab Timer: amzn.to/45yvLGf
Contact Printing Frame: amzn.to/3q2sZJ9
Tim Layton took down that post. If you can write out a parts list that would be greatly appreciated!
Yeah it looks like the original post is now behind a paywall. There's really nothing much to list as the tubes came with all the cables and mounting hardware. Here are the 2' Barrina UV LED tubes used in the video: amzn.to/3MYBZIx
3:27 I have exactly the same hat haha
You know it's really cold when I cover up the hair. ;)
@@MatMarrash yeah the weather has been awful these days in the midwest
Does any one use this light box for anthotype print using turmeric?
What height do you recommend?
6-8" is a good height for fitting prints in a contact printing frame.
Why an inkjet printer, and not a laser printer?
❤️ ❤️ ❤️
How about making Lumen Prints.
Haven't made lumen prints in forever, cool!
Eraserhead!
Sorry, bro, but with that hair all I can think of is… There’s Something About Mary.
One day (and only with hair products!) I hope to achieve that level of coif!
now i can stop pulling out whatever is left of my hair. hardly any real information to guide you on making an exposure box til now. does the spacing of the uv light make any difference in exposure time. trying to source parts to copy a photo of my mother and pass on to her grandchildren. what film choices from 8x10 - 14x17. so many options. i always used film cameras only.
Hey Tony thanks for checking out the episode and thanks for the compliment! Spacing tubes/strips closer tends to be more popular, though unless you're changing number of lights and/or printing height, the printing times won't really change. This box I threw together for the episode could have benefited from another 4-6 bulbs, but it's still serving me well two years later!
Funny, I think I was thinking the same thing as you simultaneously. This one is gorilla proof though. instagram.com/p/CNaxmMWJJpZ/?