2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 V6 ---- I changed the same Motor Mount but I took away the Font Panel where Viper Blades go by using 10 and 15 mm sockets. I used Viper Blade Puller and within 5/7 minutes I pulled that Panel and got a Long Extension and 15 mm Socket and pulled that screw in a minute or so. My mechanic who has 30 years at Toyota Dealership experience and was not agree to do that after he spent around 4 hours and still was unable to open that screw. I put long socket and extension through 2 antifreeze pipes and job was done unbelievable quickest.
Great video lady, love the step by step procedure. You're doing really good. Kudos to you! I´m gonna replace this on my 2012 in a couple days and I noted your comment about a stiff drink before putting the new one in, I think that is a must!
"I don't change my oil, but I'll go underneath the car to replace my engine mounts, go figure!" LOL LOL LOL!!! And yes, cussing up a storm while working on cars is part and parcel of the job description! LOL! Great job!
Fantastic video. I love the commentary, very funny. Thank You for putting in the work to help others. Much better than than the pros doing work, you show the real challenges we will face.
Thank u so much for these videos. I was able to get to all of the bolts from the spot you took most of the footage from. Had to use a ratchet that is long and had a bending neck. Used a long breaker bar while laying on my back for a couple bolts. Also used deep sockets and socket extener to reach the 2 bolts in the far back.
Fyi i gave up yesterday i couldnt get the bolts to budge with such tight space. Then i got the breaker bar and bending neck long handle rachet and i was back in the game. Having the right tools makes all the difference.
Guess what all day but you still got it out 👍🏼 Great Job done 👏🏼 I recently did the 2 other mounts and trans mount, it when all great. When I seen this one I decide not to do it. But now it time for me to get it done. That will be me tomorrow lol 😂 Amazing content btw.
Thank goodness I watched this vid. That damn bracket has to come out to clear the mount and I was not expecting that. Of course, that’s how it always goes. Thanks for posting
Did you feel the bracket had to come out to give you access to the two front bolts, or to get the mount itself out from the vehicle? It sure does look tricky, and that mount is diffficult to access.
15mm is your friend. I removed the lower heatshield, near the cat, I then removed all the upper heatshiled bolts by the cat and rotated the upper one out of the way. I then used a craftsman rachet wrench (15mm and removed the back two bolts from underneath - lot of force needed.) from bolt from top with a UJ and a long stack of extensions. There is one other video on youtube which also really helps.
Ty Rouse use your Van's Scissor Jack or buy one and a flat board on top to protect your oil and transmission pan to support the engine. You can use a lift but if you do make sure the board is thick and wide enough to cover the top of the jack. Failing to do this can result in the bottom of the pan getting a hole in it.....
Today I spent a considerable amount of time under my van trying to understand this repair. I'm still amazed at what you did. I'd like an opinion on what I noticed. That rear engine mount bracket is held on with four bolts, two in the front and two in the rear. The two rearward bolts seem easy enough to get off. The two front ones are a bit more difficult. The one on the passenger side of the vehicle seems accessible from the space just above it. The one on the driver's side seems like it could be removed with a long extension from above, accessing it from under the hood, ie. above the engine. It also seems that there is enough room to slide the unit upward and forward to get it out of the bracket. I'm wondering if, with your experience, you think it might be possible to remove the mount without having to remove the bracket in front of it??? That would sure simplify this project. What do you think?
I just did what your talking about but did it all from under the van. Put a swivel head right at the socket then an extension on that. Was able to put that inbetween the two mounts we're they meet up to get it off. The other 3 where eazy!
Imma be so pissed if this works If I ever have to do this again. Lol! Honestly, thinking back on it, it probably would. But considering it was my first time ever doing this, i just followed the directions, which I’ve noticed lacks a few insights. Did you try it that way? Did it work?
No I didn't have any instructions. Didn't watch any of these videos until I got to the top right one. I wish I had though would have made my day a lot more productive. The videos done very good.
@@tyrouse4876 Yea, I just replaced mine last week, and you can definitely do it without removing the bracket. The instructions are confusing, because what most people just call the "engine mount," they call the "engine mount insulator." That's the only part that needs to be changed. Thanks for the video though; it was really helpful!
@@tprch thanks for that comment. I'm going to get under and I didn't see any reason why to remove the top part. Looked like in the video there was plenty of room.
I know this video is 3 years old, but where did you find the instructions that you used? I've had to replacw almost every suspension part on my POS Dodge Avenger. Next will be the mounts. I'm mainly looking for where to obtain the torque specs? I've spent more time under this car replacing parts than driving it & definitely found myself using a lot of words not fit for little ears to hear.
Ty, you are one remarkable woman to go in and do this kind of work. Very impressive. Keep up the good work. I enjoyed watching you in action. Btw, where exactly did you get your information to be able to make this repair?
Dave denton I bought an online subscription to chiltondiy.com. But my actual mechanic told me what was wrong with it. Im usually pretty handy at fixing, not so much at diagnostic.
jm kc - I’m not sure, which is funny because i just redid this last weekend. HIGHLY recommend not buying cheap parts. I just called up my local dealership and finally bought the good OEM mounts. Im hoping never to do that rear mount again. If i remember, ill check for a tag tomorrow morning. Good luck.
@@tyrouse4876 I noticed the red residue on top of the mount that you were replacing. My buddy's van needs the mounts changed and the heater hoses on his van are leaking too.
Idk about heater hoses. I never saw any leaks, although I did buy this used. Could have been previous owner. However, later (not sure how long after this) one of my transmission lines was leaking to the point of a lil puddle in my driveway. So it could be tran fluid from when it started as a slow link. Thats the only leak Ive ever noticed.
Felipe Rios - Im not sure. I am a pretty rough driver and I live in AZ. My first T&C never had an issue and that had over 250k miles. This newer one had Maybe 130? Don’t quote me. But listen, you’ll here it rattling during acceleration.
Dominic Matias sorry, i got no notice of your comment. I didnt, but if you need the room, it will pretty much be the process of removing the front mount.
@@tyrouse4876 oh Rock TJ I mean Tiguan I've been looking at your teeth over and over I haven't done the job on my 2010 Dodge Journey yet but I do have to do the rear mount in the front one by the radiator how did you get your two boats in towards the front the ones that are supposed to be the hardest to get in did you use a socket with a long extension from the front or did you do it all from the bottom keep up the good work girl you looking good
I think u r the best very impressive that some hard ish pop your collar n pay yourself mom of 4 n nice dinner n glass of go wine n bubble 🛀 Like a BOSS Ok☝✌🙏💪👀👌✊🙌🖖👼💥
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 V6 ---- I changed the same Motor Mount but I took away the Font Panel where Viper Blades go by using 10 and 15 mm sockets. I used Viper Blade Puller and within 5/7 minutes I pulled that Panel and got a Long Extension and 15 mm Socket and pulled that screw in a minute or so. My mechanic who has 30 years at Toyota Dealership experience and was not agree to do that after he spent around 4 hours and still was unable to open that screw. I put long socket and extension through 2 antifreeze pipes and job was done unbelievable quickest.
Thank you for all for all of your videos. I have a 2009 VW Routan and I just changed all 4 of my mounts in 8hrs because of your videos.
Great video lady, love the step by step procedure. You're doing really good. Kudos to you! I´m gonna replace this on my 2012 in a couple days and I noted your comment about a stiff drink before putting the new one in, I think that is a must!
"I don't change my oil, but I'll go underneath the car to replace my engine mounts, go figure!" LOL LOL LOL!!! And yes, cussing up a storm while working on cars is part and parcel of the job description! LOL! Great job!
Thanks Ty! Your videos helped me change the other three mounts, but this video convinced me to let the shop take care of this back mount!
Thank you for all your videos, they helped me to change all four of the motor mounts on my wife’s car, good job!
Fantastic video. I love the commentary, very funny. Thank You for putting in the work to help others. Much better than than the pros doing work, you show the real challenges we will face.
thanks for the vids and the apropos colorful commentary. keep up the hard work and saving that $$$!!!!
Thank u so much for these videos. I was able to get to all of the bolts from the spot you took most of the footage from. Had to use a ratchet that is long and had a bending neck. Used a long breaker bar while laying on my back for a couple bolts. Also used deep sockets and socket extener to reach the 2 bolts in the far back.
Wow... you got some serious guts doing it. It was tough... no lie.... good job
Fyi i gave up yesterday i couldnt get the bolts to budge with such tight space. Then i got the breaker bar and bending neck long handle rachet and i was back in the game. Having the right tools makes all the difference.
Guess what all day but you still got it out 👍🏼 Great Job done 👏🏼 I recently did the 2 other mounts and trans mount, it when all great. When I seen this one I decide not to do it. But now it time for me to get it done. That will be me tomorrow lol 😂 Amazing content btw.
Thank goodness I watched this vid. That damn bracket has to come out to clear the mount and I was not expecting that. Of course, that’s how it always goes. Thanks for posting
Did you feel the bracket had to come out to give you access to the two front bolts, or to get the mount itself out from the vehicle? It sure does look tricky, and that mount is diffficult to access.
The bracket doesn't have to come out just Jack the motor up a little bit and the motor mount will come right out
15mm is your friend. I removed the lower heatshield, near the cat, I then removed all the upper heatshiled bolts by the cat and rotated the upper one out of the way. I then used a craftsman rachet wrench (15mm and removed the back two bolts from underneath - lot of force needed.) from bolt from top with a UJ and a long stack of extensions. There is one other video on youtube which also really helps.
Thank you Ty! Your videos were very helpful. It looks like I will be tackling this very soon.
Will Lowery -Good luck! Hardest part is breaking the torque on the bolts.
You are amazing, thank you so much for taking your time to post the video!
Ty Rouse use your Van's Scissor Jack or buy one and a flat board on top to protect your oil and transmission pan to support the engine. You can use a lift but if you do make sure the board is thick and wide enough to cover the top of the jack. Failing to do this can result in the bottom of the pan getting a hole in it.....
My hat is off to you, Your one tough lady with a lot of guts, job well done!!
Alan Dupey - thank you!!! I hope to post two more videos soon.
Today I spent a considerable amount of time under my van trying to understand this repair. I'm still amazed at what you did. I'd like an opinion on what I noticed. That rear engine mount bracket is held on with four bolts, two in the front and two in the rear. The two rearward bolts seem easy enough to get off. The two front ones are a bit more difficult. The one on the passenger side of the vehicle seems accessible from the space just above it. The one on the driver's side seems like it could be removed with a long extension from above, accessing it from under the hood, ie. above the engine. It also seems that there is enough room to slide the unit upward and forward to get it out of the bracket. I'm wondering if, with your experience, you think it might be possible to remove the mount without having to remove the bracket in front of it??? That would sure simplify this project. What do you think?
I just did what your talking about but did it all from under the van. Put a swivel head right at the socket then an extension on that. Was able to put that inbetween the two mounts we're they meet up to get it off. The other 3 where eazy!
Imma be so pissed if this works If I ever have to do this again. Lol!
Honestly, thinking back on it, it probably would. But considering it was my first time ever doing this, i just followed the directions, which I’ve noticed lacks a few insights. Did you try it that way? Did it work?
No I didn't have any instructions. Didn't watch any of these videos until I got to the top right one. I wish I had though would have made my day a lot more productive. The videos done very good.
@@tyrouse4876 Yea, I just replaced mine last week, and you can definitely do it without removing the bracket. The instructions are confusing, because what most people just call the "engine mount," they call the "engine mount insulator." That's the only part that needs to be changed.
Thanks for the video though; it was really helpful!
@@tprch thanks for that comment. I'm going to get under and I didn't see any reason why to remove the top part. Looked like in the video there was plenty of room.
Thank you so much for the video you rocks 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻, I saved 250$ with this video
You did a great job 👏 👍 thank you again
Can you please attach the "proccess diagram" which you are useing.
Cause I can't reach the inner left bolt.crazy....
How many engine mounts are on the van? Should you replace them all if one is gone?
I know this video is 3 years old, but where did you find the instructions that you used? I've had to replacw almost every suspension part on my POS Dodge Avenger. Next will be the mounts. I'm mainly looking for where to obtain the torque specs? I've spent more time under this car replacing parts than driving it & definitely found myself using a lot of words not fit for little ears to hear.
Ty, you are one remarkable woman to go in and do this kind of work. Very impressive. Keep up the good work. I enjoyed watching you in action. Btw, where exactly did you get your information to be able to make this repair?
Dave denton I bought an online subscription to chiltondiy.com. But my actual mechanic told me what was wrong with it. Im usually pretty handy at fixing, not so much at diagnostic.
Excellent job
Ty Rouse is the best.
Great job!
Nice...I like your work
Thanks for the video..just wondering whats the part number
Thank you
jm kc - I’m not sure, which is funny because i just redid this last weekend. HIGHLY recommend not buying cheap parts. I just called up my local dealership and finally bought the good OEM mounts. Im hoping never to do that rear mount again.
If i remember, ill check for a tag tomorrow morning. Good luck.
You’re awesome 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 thank you
Great Job!!…..Did you change the leaking heater hoses too?
zer gyo - 😳😳😳 huh?
@@tyrouse4876 I noticed the red residue on top of the mount that you were replacing. My buddy's van needs the mounts changed and the heater hoses on his van are leaking too.
Idk about heater hoses. I never saw any leaks, although I did buy this used. Could have been previous owner.
However, later (not sure how long after this) one of my transmission lines was leaking to the point of a lil puddle in my driveway. So it could be tran fluid from when it started as a slow link. Thats the only leak Ive ever noticed.
Maybe a year after this vid.
@@tyrouse4876 Anyway, I applaud you. You did great.
Thank you
At how many miles should this be done I have 114k.
Felipe Rios - Im not sure. I am a pretty rough driver and I live in AZ. My first T&C never had an issue and that had over 250k miles. This newer one had Maybe 130? Don’t quote me. But listen, you’ll here it rattling during acceleration.
Do I have to remove the bar under the car
Dominic Matias sorry, i got no notice of your comment. I didnt, but if you need the room, it will pretty much be the process of removing the front mount.
@@tyrouse4876 oh Rock TJ I mean Tiguan I've been looking at your teeth over and over I haven't done the job on my 2010 Dodge Journey yet but I do have to do the rear mount in the front one by the radiator how did you get your two boats in towards the front the ones that are supposed to be the hardest to get in did you use a socket with a long extension from the front or did you do it all from the bottom keep up the good work girl you looking good
😮 vehicle repair requires removal of your watches and jewelry before you begin
Skills
🤣🤣🤣 women are supposed to read the directions men are the ones that don’t
I think u r the best very impressive that some hard ish pop your collar n pay yourself mom of 4 n nice dinner n glass of go wine n bubble 🛀 Like a BOSS Ok☝✌🙏💪👀👌✊🙌🖖👼💥
Too dark, impossible to see.