Tip: Use a different colour quick link than your chain colour, I find gold quick link against a grey / silver chain works best. This lets you see the quick link when the chain is dirty and gives you a reference point for oiling the chain
For anyone wondering - I reuse a Shimano quick-link without any trouble. Shimano says they are single-use only but I take my chain off to clean it properly every 1-2 months and have reused the same link 6 or 7 times now without any issues. Maybe this might help somebody in case they had that question.. :-)
@@simonm1447 Fair play. The Connex one didn't quite do it for me. I never managed to get them sitting tight enough for me to trust them and I never bothered trying Sram haha
@@JanHolgerOlof I know in theory they can open, but there's no force in this direction as long as the chain is mounted on the bike, and it takes surprisingly much force to open them if they are locked. It never opened by itself at one of my bikes. Of course the Shimano is also good, it's just a little bit trickier to close
@@simonm1447 I know but I just had a strange feeling - that never helps. As I have a set of chain pliers, opening the Shimano ones was never an issue. I see that being able to open Connex links without tools is a huge plus on the roadside
If you're joining a chain without using a quicklink, don't drive the pin all the way out. Take it far enough so that it remains in the outer plate on one side, then you can drive the pin back in. If it goes all the way out, then you'll have a difficult, if not impossible task of trying to align the pin to drive it back in.
@@tomahoks Yes, they can last quite short if they are reused - I tried it once (I lacked a 9 spd quick link), it didn't go well. At least now I know 8 spd quick links also work on 9 spd chains for emergency
Back in the bad old days of 5 speed chains that was the way it was done. Quick links and driving in pins to snap them off came later. That would be unsafe with modern chains.
@@davidburgess741 5 speed chains should be very similar to 8 speed chains, since 8 speed chains can also be used for 6 or 7 speed. Really old chains had a pitch of 5/8'', after WW2 they changed to 1/2 inch which is still used today.
Thank you for this video. I used this video to make the chain on my E-bike shorter. It was too long. the bicycle chain was slack and made a rattling noise against the chain tensioner at the height of the electronic mid-engine. By shortening the chain 2 links (1 inner & 1 outer) I fixed the problem. After I shortened the chain I cleaned and relubricated the chain. And The E-bike does now perform better than before. Althought the electronic motor isn't changed. I only fixed the problem I had with the chain. 🙂🙂
Great video Alex. I recently changed my crankset, cassette and chain. Surprisingly I was able to do the entire job except for the chain where I had to go to the bike shop to have them break the chain for me. Turns out it is simple with the correct tool. I since ordered the CT 3.3. The tricky part is determining what length of chain you need. Can you post a video on this? Please explain how to measure on the bike as well as how to use the online calculators. Thanks!
I wish to see how Alex is putting pin back with this tool… it’s a nightmare to align everything together and push the pin back in place! Please GCN show me how you do it without 4 hands and vice! 😂
I love Connex quick links. They can be used over and over and require no tools to remove or install. A little pricey. But totally worth the convenience and long term value, IMO.
Great video 😊I recently purchased an Oxford chain tool as I heard quick link is really for single use but would like to know how to break the pin off to my new chain 👍👍
#GCNTech Very helpful to have videos like this. Only maintaining my small four bike fleet I don't use the chain tool often. It's great to have this as a refresher.
Um! Or, you don't push the pin completely out. Leave about 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch of the pin still in. Push on the chain with thumb to separate chain. When reassembling, the 1/32 chain pin that is still in snaps in to align male and female parts. I never push the pin completely out! I'm too old?
Probably... This is ok for a road or trailside repair but has been strictly forbidden by the manufacturers forever. It works pretty well up to 9 or 10 speed. but the 11 and 12 speed chains aren't as robust. Re-usable quick links are more convenient when you need to do maintenance as well.
Agree with you Dan. Reassembly is so much easier when the pin isn't driven all the way out. I use this method as my chains don't have quick links (I had one fail). I consider an endless chain to be more robust.
It comes as coincidence that I just ordered a new chain and quicklink tool to swap out my chain all by myself for the first time. That's a bit scary, Alex! Get out of my head. 😁
Don't worries. It'll be a walk in the park - especially if you got a quick link to fit. This way you can easily take the chain off again, should you put it on wrong :)
Yes, depending on the chain and whether you are using a joining pin or quick-link. Newer chains from Shimano and SRAM are directional. The chain has a drive side and non-drive side. A connecting pin should be used on the leading end of an outer link and driven from the drive side (for Shimano). It isn't the end of the world if you do it wrong, but if the connecting pin doesn't break cleanly, it can affect shifting. There is a lot less to think about with Quick-links.
Once pushed out, there is no way back with the same pin. You can buy a specific pin that is designed to be installed by users and parktool have a video about that which is just one simple search away from you.
#gcntech If you drive the pin all the way out and you don't have a quick liink, how do you reconnect a link using the same pin? I've seen local bike mechanics do it and I have done it as well on the bike trail. Could you please make a video on this topic? Thank you.
I tried this a single time - it lasted 2 km. Shimano has special pin delivered with their chains, which is designed to be used for this purpose. Personally I prefer quick links and always have some at home.
@@simonm1447 I agree it should not be done to a Shimano chain that uses single use pins. However, KMC and generic chains can have their pins reinserted. So far the chain that I reinserted the pin has lasted for over 800 miles. Also, the scenario here considers the absence of quick links.
#gcntech I Tried to remoce my Shimano 105 chain (came with bike) and the cain break tool almost broke, holder pins bend and still no sign of the pin being puched even a bit... whats wrong?
It's likely that your chain breaker is of a low-quality one to begin with. My first one was part of a very cheap multi-tool, the prongs bent on its first use due to a malleable metal being used. Buy a quality multi-tool with a chain breaker, like one from Topeak.
@@yonglingng5640 thats true, it is a cheap one. Thanks for replying i was thinking, it is due to the chain so strong and not weak enough to be replaced.
@@punusha A chain's connecting pin's interference fit doesn't weaken overtime once it's installed, unless it's driven out and back. Important note: Do not cheap out on tools.
Tip: get a dedicated chain tool. The one on your multitool does the trick for a roadside hack - but they tend to be very difficult and painful to use as you really need to put a lot of force through it. A dedicated tool will save you a lot of cursing. You don't have to get the most expensive. Cheaper ones will do the trick just as nicely :)
Wish you’d show a close up the entire time. Figured out how to take the pin out but I can’t find one single freaking video showing me how to get the damn pin back into the chain link. And your video is so far away. Whyyyy?
You do not show how to shorten a chain where only one link is to be removed. That would leave a narrow link to be connect to a wider link. A master link would be useless, because it can only connect two narrow links. Sometime, remove two links would make the chain too tight!
Am I the only one who doesn't use a quick link? After all the "fun" of getting the pin back into the chain, I should probably switch to a quick link as well. For some reason the joining pin always breaks before the job is done.
No, I also use quicklinks. I tried it a single time to use a pin pushed out of the chain to reconnect the chain, it went out after 2 km or so. Quicklinks are more flexible and they are reliable.
Unfortunately 10, 11, and 12 speed chain tools don't work on single speed chains. The chain doesn't fit into the tool's guide properly. There are less elegant ways to shorten a single speed chain, but there must be a proper tool out there somewhere!
Unior do a workshop chain tool that fits everything, it's a bit on the expensive side. Cyclo do a tool for a tenner that fits 1-12 speed, we use this on the halfords in store bike hut where we use them on a daily basis no problems
He's breaking a chain in the middle. You will drive out one pin (leaves you with one set of inner and outer links) then use a connecting pin to re-join the chain. Alex is using a quick link which takes the place of the outer links. So, he needs to drive out two pins to be left with two sets of inner links.
Tip: Use a different colour quick link than your chain colour, I find gold quick link against a grey / silver chain works best. This lets you see the quick link when the chain is dirty and gives you a reference point for oiling the chain
For anyone wondering - I reuse a Shimano quick-link without any trouble. Shimano says they are single-use only but I take my chain off to clean it properly every 1-2 months and have reused the same link 6 or 7 times now without any issues.
Maybe this might help somebody in case they had that question.. :-)
I also reused Shimano Quick links, but personally I find the links offered by Connex or Sram better. They cost all the same at the end.
@@simonm1447 Fair play. The Connex one didn't quite do it for me. I never managed to get them sitting tight enough for me to trust them and I never bothered trying Sram haha
@@JanHolgerOlof I know in theory they can open, but there's no force in this direction as long as the chain is mounted on the bike, and it takes surprisingly much force to open them if they are locked. It never opened by itself at one of my bikes.
Of course the Shimano is also good, it's just a little bit trickier to close
@@simonm1447 I know but I just had a strange feeling - that never helps.
As I have a set of chain pliers, opening the Shimano ones was never an issue. I see that being able to open Connex links without tools is a huge plus on the roadside
My Shimano quick link failed after I'd reused it multiple times. Certainly no more than 10 times. The link fractured and split in two.
If you're joining a chain without using a quicklink, don't drive the pin all the way out. Take it far enough so that it remains in the outer plate on one side, then you can drive the pin back in. If it goes all the way out, then you'll have a difficult, if not impossible task of trying to align the pin to drive it back in.
These pins are single use only. Bad craziness.
@@tomahoks Yes, they can last quite short if they are reused - I tried it once (I lacked a 9 spd quick link), it didn't go well.
At least now I know 8 spd quick links also work on 9 spd chains for emergency
Back in the bad old days of 5 speed chains that was the way it was done. Quick links and driving in pins to snap them off came later. That would be unsafe with modern chains.
@@davidburgess741 5 speed chains should be very similar to 8 speed chains, since 8 speed chains can also be used for 6 or 7 speed. Really old chains had a pitch of 5/8'', after WW2 they changed to 1/2 inch which is still used today.
Thank you for this video.
I used this video to make the chain on my E-bike shorter. It was too long.
the bicycle chain was slack and made a rattling noise against the chain tensioner at the height of the electronic mid-engine.
By shortening the chain 2 links (1 inner & 1 outer) I fixed the problem. After I shortened the chain I cleaned and relubricated the chain.
And The E-bike does now perform better than before. Althought the electronic motor isn't changed.
I only fixed the problem I had with the chain. 🙂🙂
Great video Alex. I recently changed my crankset, cassette and chain. Surprisingly I was able to do the entire job except for the chain where I had to go to the bike shop to have them break the chain for me. Turns out it is simple with the correct tool. I since ordered the CT 3.3. The tricky part is determining what length of chain you need. Can you post a video on this? Please explain how to measure on the bike as well as how to use the online calculators. Thanks!
True easy to reference the length of any old chain to determine the length you need 😊
I wish to see how Alex is putting pin back with this tool… it’s a nightmare to align everything together and push the pin back in place! Please GCN show me how you do it without 4 hands and vice! 😂
I love Connex quick links. They can be used over and over and require no tools to remove or install. A little pricey. But totally worth the convenience and long term value, IMO.
But my chain has hollow rollers, and the chain breaker doesn't work on it. How to cut hollow roller chain?
Hey tech lovers ❤️
Great video 😊I recently purchased an Oxford chain tool as I heard quick link is really for single use but would like to know how to break the pin off to my new chain 👍👍
#GCNTech Very helpful to have videos like this. Only maintaining my small four bike fleet I don't use the chain tool often. It's great to have this as a refresher.
Um! Or, you don't push the pin completely out. Leave about 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch of the pin still in. Push on the chain with thumb to separate chain. When reassembling, the 1/32 chain pin that is still in snaps in to align male and female parts. I never push the pin completely out! I'm too old?
Probably... This is ok for a road or trailside repair but has been strictly forbidden by the manufacturers forever. It works pretty well up to 9 or 10 speed. but the 11 and 12 speed chains aren't as robust. Re-usable quick links are more convenient when you need to do maintenance as well.
Agree with you Dan. Reassembly is so much easier when the pin isn't driven all the way out. I use this method as my chains don't have quick links (I had one fail). I consider an endless chain to be more robust.
Is chain wear, and its direction of rotation an issue on reassembly. Should one remember inside/ouside?
Or you go the convoluted Campagnolo way, with their bespoke expensive tool which I have. Used it 3 times in 5 yrs.
I mean you always send it to a bike shop, wait several days or even weeks and having it cost more than the tool.
Will this also work on chainsaw chains?
It comes as coincidence that I just ordered a new chain and quicklink tool to swap out my chain all by myself for the first time. That's a bit scary, Alex! Get out of my head. 😁
Don't worries. It'll be a walk in the park - especially if you got a quick link to fit. This way you can easily take the chain off again, should you put it on wrong :)
@@JanHolgerOlof At least if don't break the chain too short by accident, which shouldn't happen because I have the old one, indeed. 😇
@@DoNuT_1985 Haha yeah. But I'm sure you'll be safe and make sure to get the new chain the right way through the rear derailleur cage :)
Hi Alex, happy new year to you guys. I have a question. Is it possible to use the new shimano 12 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub? Thanks
Does it matter which side of the chain drive the pin from?
Nope, you can do it from either side
Yes, depending on the chain and whether you are using a joining pin or quick-link. Newer chains from Shimano and SRAM are directional. The chain has a drive side and non-drive side. A connecting pin should be used on the leading end of an outer link and driven from the drive side (for Shimano). It isn't the end of the world if you do it wrong, but if the connecting pin doesn't break cleanly, it can affect shifting. There is a lot less to think about with Quick-links.
How about showing us how to put the same pin back in using the tool instead of using the easy method of a quick link.
Once pushed out, there is no way back with the same pin. You can buy a specific pin that is designed to be installed by users and parktool have a video about that which is just one simple search away from you.
Stole his chain. Put it back with missing links. Your kids must be proud of you.
🥷
You didn’t show how to join it back together if you opt to not use a quick link!?!
It's GCN. Half assed tech videos for clicks. Check out other RUclips channels for real guides.
#gcntech If you drive the pin all the way out and you don't have a quick liink, how do you reconnect a link using the same pin? I've seen local bike mechanics do it and I have done it as well on the bike trail. Could you please make a video on this topic? Thank you.
I tried this a single time - it lasted 2 km. Shimano has special pin delivered with their chains, which is designed to be used for this purpose. Personally I prefer quick links and always have some at home.
@@simonm1447 I agree it should not be done to a Shimano chain that uses single use pins. However, KMC and generic chains can have their pins reinserted. So far the chain that I reinserted the pin has lasted for over 800 miles. Also, the scenario here considers the absence of quick links.
Suggestion to DYIers. Either spend the money to buy a quality tool, or don’t bother trying this yourself.
you shouldve shown how to reconnect links
#gcntech I Tried to remoce my Shimano 105 chain (came with bike) and the cain break tool almost broke, holder pins bend and still no sign of the pin being puched even a bit... whats wrong?
It's likely that your chain breaker is of a low-quality one to begin with. My first one was part of a very cheap multi-tool, the prongs bent on its first use due to a malleable metal being used.
Buy a quality multi-tool with a chain breaker, like one from Topeak.
@@yonglingng5640 thats true, it is a cheap one. Thanks for replying i was thinking, it is due to the chain so strong and not weak enough to be replaced.
@@punusha A chain's connecting pin's interference fit doesn't weaken overtime once it's installed, unless it's driven out and back.
Important note: Do not cheap out on tools.
Poor Groom....working again😄
Dont tell Doddy !!
Start with the question to which length the chain should be shortened to would make sense, right? Why not at least link to a video about that?
Had that on my bike multi tool but I always wondered what is it, now I know, maybe I can use it when I replace my chain
Tip: get a dedicated chain tool. The one on your multitool does the trick for a roadside hack - but they tend to be very difficult and painful to use as you really need to put a lot of force through it. A dedicated tool will save you a lot of cursing. You don't have to get the most expensive. Cheaper ones will do the trick just as nicely :)
@@JanHolgerOlof Suppose I can get one from decathlon when I am able to do more self maintenance, thanks
Yo, I think it's time to change the channel intro video. The current one begins with Ollie saying "2020...." Just a reminder, xD
Wish you’d show a close up the entire time. Figured out how to take the pin out but I can’t find one single freaking video showing me how to get the damn pin back into the chain link. And your video is so far away. Whyyyy?
You do not show how to shorten a chain where only one link is to be removed. That would leave a narrow link to be connect to a wider link. A master link would be useless, because it can only connect two narrow links. Sometime, remove two links would make the chain too tight!
Am I the only one who doesn't use a quick link? After all the "fun" of getting the pin back into the chain, I should probably switch to a quick link as well. For some reason the joining pin always breaks before the job is done.
No, I also use quicklinks. I tried it a single time to use a pin pushed out of the chain to reconnect the chain, it went out after 2 km or so. Quicklinks are more flexible and they are reliable.
First/1st 🥇
Went over the quick link part too fast. Followed by trash talk.
Unfortunately 10, 11, and 12 speed chain tools don't work on single speed chains. The chain doesn't fit into the tool's guide properly. There are less elegant ways to shorten a single speed chain, but there must be a proper tool out there somewhere!
Unior do a workshop chain tool that fits everything, it's a bit on the expensive side.
Cyclo do a tool for a tenner that fits 1-12 speed, we use this on the halfords in store bike hut where we use them on a daily basis no problems
Why not drive out the pin on the link where you needed it removed?
Doing it twice makes no sense.
He's breaking a chain in the middle. You will drive out one pin (leaves you with one set of inner and outer links) then use a connecting pin to re-join the chain. Alex is using a quick link which takes the place of the outer links. So, he needs to drive out two pins to be left with two sets of inner links.