One suggestion... If you make your outer raster line slightly larger than the vector cutting line, one would not see a sliver of "raw" leather on the perimeter of the patch---essentially cutting over the "fat" perimeter line. Great technique and info!
Just saw a video where they poured resin epoxy into a cut out and it was awesome. I know you have done painting your cut outs and the result was perfect. Maybe you could do a video using resin to color your project? I would like to see your spin on this technique.
The silicone mat that you used in the video to cover the patch while using the heat press is not mentioned in the materials/supplies list...you link to teflon sheets. Can you please tell me what you are using in the video to cover the patch? Thanks so much! Loved the video!
You will need a Co2 Laser to do this, and one that can run the software Lightburn. Lightburn is great, but it needs to be paired with a Co2 laser system that meets your needs and one that is compatible with light burn. I woudl say dont get a Co2 laser less than 60watts
Great idea with the 3M 90. Question: The label states that it is highly flammable. After its dried and you laser your patch are you getting any flames?
I realize this is an old tutorial but I will ask anyway, - That heat seems really high for polyester - how do you keep from melting the hat or the foam cushioning in the hat ? The teflon shield will help a bit with scorching but doesn't poly melt around 265c ?
great video and very informative. I wonder if Loctite spray adhesive will work as well, and if this method will adhere leather patches to knit pull over hats like toboggans? Thanks for the helpful video.
Heat Seal Sheets Are Great, and def worth using as well, I wanted to show how to use a product without having to have a large heat press to marry the heat seal sheet to the back of the leather. I think both are good option, the spray is re activated by the heat from the hat press yes.
Sir, if you were any closer I'd bake you cookies and give you a HUG! you are a lifesaver. I've been doing leather for over 40 years now and those cutters are the bees knees! Thank you for the spray adhesive suggestion as well. I am totally inspired and appreciative. I do have a question though- I'm doing 3-4mm veg tanned leather pressing 300 for 20 seconds find it curling badly. Thoughts?
Yes, 🤣 The cutters are amazing, glad you find them useful. Regrading the thick leather, the only thing I can suggest is that you check out the double platen heat press by hotronix, it pricy! but it heats the cap from the bottom and top a the same time, might be best for thick leather, I don't work with that thickness, I I can imagine it challenging. also try preheating your surface first, before doing the final press.
Never seen heat press that produces a patch that won't peel up over time. A long term option is a bartack machine with several stock shape profiles to sew on the patches. Easiest way is to push customers to a general size like 3" circle or a 4" square. My machine has 120 shape profiles. can sew one on in 20 seconds that will last longer then they actual hat. You will get returns eventually on heat press patches. Especially in damp climates. Great video I enjoyed the actual engraving tips.
@@haastnation9922 Thanks for sharing, that is a cool method, since I have made this video, heat presses and thermal adhesive like lonestar adhesive have some along way,, and now with dual platen heat presses for hats, id have to say that , now there are patches that do not come off over time, but maybe in the early days this was true. I always like the look of real stitched hats too!
@@LaserEngraving911 only reason I mentioned it was a buddy who owns a very well known clothing co had a company manufacture iron on style patch hats. They got about 30 percent back so far. Maybe it was just a bad company skipping steps. It comes up a lot on videos as well with comparisons on stitching over heat transfers. Guess its random with tons of variables.
Looking inside your machine @11:46, I see what appears to be a modified exhaust pickup in the same plane as your bed. Is this something you've designed yourself? I can only find a few bits of information on the internet regarding such and would appreciate any tidbits you could throw our way.
Hi Steven, the laser bed in my system is not modified, this is how it comes, what I think you are referring to is the vent system, yes it has ports that are level to the bed, and also the holes you see are to vent the down draft table as well. my unit suck air at the table level and underneath the table as well. drawing the air straight down. This is how Epilogs do their venting on most units.
@@LaserEngraving911 Yes, I can see that the bed wasn't modified. That's why I referred to the device as a modified exhaust pickup and not a modified bed. LOL Wasn't aware that Epilog does their vent like that on the inside. Cool. I have another brand laser that has the single 6" round port out the back. I'm planning on sealing that and developing a system that picks up on a horizontal plane like yours but actually go out the bottom of the machine. This way I can set the machine up on a roller cabinet and closer to the wall, exhaust out the bottom, into an activated charcoal based filtration system before passing outside. Some math is going to be involved to be certain I don't reduce the area of the vent size. I have a sheet metal brake and intend to keep the transient fire load minimized inside (I've seen some vent systems that were made from mdf or hard board). Appreciate the quick response and the video!
Hey Josh I would need to know what laser your using to cut leather and engrave, most of the time when I see lots of soot and ash, while engraving and cutting leather its because the power is too high, or maybe the air assist is not blowing correctly, or the leather being cut is very thick and the cut settings are not set right for that thick leather, also if I ever do get soot and ask, I just wipe it away with a clean rag and windex! works great. Also having a laser with a down draft pulling the air down and not just out the back helps as well. Hope that helps!
When lasering wood, there is a problem of ash What about with leather? And what about tempting the leather before burning it? What about cow leather versus pig leather differences?
You will get alot of soot and ash when you have your air assist turned on while engraving, alot of machines now days require that you always have the air assist turned on, I because of the nozzle design. I recommend you have it turned doff IF you can while engraving only, this helps reduce charring and soot both on wood and leather.=, but if you cant, then it cleans up easy, any kind of leather will engrave and cut, but you will have different results in how it looks based on the type of hide used.
Just a follow-up to your exhaust system. What model BOFA filter system do you have. I ordered a Epilog Fusion Edge 50watt. I plan on doing leather and live in a fairly close to the neighbor housing area. I thought about just exhausting the fumes but after your comment I may upgrade. In your opinion how well does the BOFA absorb the smoke and fumes. Thanks for your videos, you are part of the reason I chose the Epilog.
HI John, I have the BOFA IQ500, it will do and excellent job removing all the smoke and particulates, from acrylic, wood, and other material including leather. however, when it comes to removing the "smell" of laser cut and engraved leather the BOFA and all other fumes extractor systems will NOT remove that smell completely. even when going through the extractor and pumping outside the smell is still there and your neighbors will notice it. This a leather specific issue with all fume extractors the smell is so pungent, that even high end extractors cannot remove it completely, I wish I had a better solution for you regarding controlling the smell of burnt leather but I have not found a good one yet. Hope this helps.
@@LaserEngraving911 Thanks for getting back to me. I guess, due to where I live, I will be using faux leather. My thinking is the smell, if any, will be much reduced and it's cheaper than moving. Have you had any experience with faux leather for patches. My other thought is, if the customer wants real leather, is to make a mold and press the image into the wet leather. Sorry for the follow-up question, I won't stalk you anymore.
@@fixedops123 Hey John, you will have NO problem filtering out the smell of faux leather with a BOFA, it will do an amazing job, but real leather is where the problem will be getting rid of the smell. Thanks for the questions and support!
Another awesome video bro. These lasers have so many ways to earn u money once ur willing to work hard and learn ur business. I watched the 10 things to make u fail in this business.. That was a very interesting watch too man. Keep these awesome vids coming man. Love them. I think my shitty little Sculpfun laser can do smoe of this stuff but ur were right when u spoke about speeds when it comes to getting work done. What software do u use? Is Lightburn good enough for this type of work and when u said about the vectors? U said JPEG's aren't good for this type of work for obvious reasons but why though? Genuine question bro. What is the difference? I'm a complete dummie when it comes to this stuff. Where would u get those pics from or vectors as u called them? Is there a special website u go to get them, buy them I mean or whatever is involved? How does all that work? I realise I'm probably asking very basic questions here or maybe I'm asking really stupid questions.. LOL I'm really interested in learning about all of this stuff bro. Are there any video material on here u kow of that could give me a heads up? Thanks for this brilliant videos though man. It was defo an eye opener for me.. Salute form IRELAND!
Great Video! I just got a Fusion Pro 36x24 Dual Head Laser 50watt C02/50watt Fiber and I was wondering if you had any advice on the leather settings for 4-5 oz veg tan. I'm getting excellent results on the engraving with 300dpi Stucki 80speed/75power , I just can't seem to get the cutting settings without flare ups, currently using 35speed/85power/55freq. I do have air assist, but honestly am so new to lasering that I don't know if it's working or not. I know that many folks use masking tape of some kind, but I'd rather not for now. Also, I'm not far from Napa...are you pleased with the leather selection at the hide house? I've been wanting to go and check out their selection. Anyway, Thank You again for the great video and walking through many of the steps!!
Daniel, thanks for your support! all great questions, Id be happy to help guide you some more and talk to you further please reach out to me on my contact page and we can talk more about your leather cutting questions. www.laserengraving911.com/
Have you experimented at all with dyes? I’m buying veg tanned leather from Tandy and I know some people like the brown or more exotic colors of leather.
I don't have have any experience with that new hat press, I use the old one, maybe try turning off the under heat pad and just use it with top heat, and less heat.👍
Thanks a lot Fidel many folks used Corel draw as their primary laser engraving software and for design, but the truth is you can also hook up Adobe Illustrator to Epilogs from what I understand, if its an Epilog, and if your not on Epilog or Trotec, you can use Corel and or Lightburn too! Linked to your laser engraver. I do all my design work on a separate computer using Adobe Illustrator, then I dump that file into Corel which is hooked up to my laser, I never design anything in Corel just use it to send stuff to laser. 👌
Awesome tutorial!! Subscribed already , newbie to my gf and all the many things possible . My question would these adhere as well to a stocking type hat ....probably a smooth poly, not the old fashion knit type .
I am using a BOFA fume extractor, its quiet enough compared to standard exhaust fans. However the unit is kinda pricey and the filters are pricey to., BUT it really does what it says and filters out everything, I made the investment out of respect for surrounding business and neighbors so they didn't have to smell or breath the smoke and vapors coming from my lasers when I'm working.
Haven't tried the thick 4-5oz leather so far, but I imagine if you can get the heat from your hat press to pass thought that thick leather and active the adhesive ,like maybe with the new dual heated platent style hat press from Hotronix, I don't see why not! Good Question!
Love this video! So helpful. I’m just starting to learn AI. Your instructions were easy to understand and follow. I hope you will consider doing a video showing how to add a faux stitch line around the patch
Hey. Just curious how you clean the patches before applying the oil? I find that the charring left behind from the engraving can be a bit of a pain. Any help would be super helpful.
Great question, if you are getting lots of charring, you might be running to much power and too slow of speed. We all want to get a nice deep engraving because it looks cool, but sometimes its better to do two passes as less power and faster speed to get depth without charring. You will always have little sooting, with leather but it should be minimal. if you have your setting correct. Try fast speed lower power 2 passes.
Hi there! Thanks for the video...so helpful :) With the 3M adhesive, is your laser "heat" cutting affected by the adhesive on it already? I have a hat press but wasn't sure about cutting the patches with an adhesive already on it!
So your using the 3m 90 Spray adhesive? being a contact cement doesn't it have to be sprayed on both parts Patch and Hat? Dried first? then applied, or does the heat activate the one piece being sprayed, sorry I searched and searched and everything I have found including the 3m site says both piece need application dried then pressed, appreciate your video and all your help in answering questions
I've tried this a few times in last couple days on a test shirt. Idk if maybe I'm doing something wrong but it seems to peel off quite easy. Have you had any problem like this on the hats? I let the adhesive dry for 24 hours.
Hey There, typically when I was in the first experimental stage of creating this process, I found that when my patches were not sticking to the medium it was because I wasn't using enough adhesive or my heat was not set right, or I was not using enough pressure on my hat press, once I figured all those out , I have never had any issue since. Good luck in your testing, and thanks for the comment!
God morning 🌞 I'm having a problem, I did make 20 hats and now they're coming back to me because the patches are coming out. 3M is not holding 😮 Any suggestions Please 🙏🥺
2-3oz roughly, you can use thicker leather you just need to apply more heat when mounting, that's where the new hotronix hat press comes in handy because it it heats below and from the top at the same time, so it would be an excellent choice for thicker leather, hope that helps!
I would do research on laser cutting the velco and make sure its not PVC based or some material that is not laser safe, in theory its totally possible just make sure you never laser cut material that is not laser safe to cut. Great question!
I have not, application is key, and right amount of adhesive as well, Im sure there are some materials it will not bond to well out in the world, just like with everything, but so far I have had good feedback on the work I have done using this method.
awesome video. I have saved the hotronix and epilog laser machines from earlier research for starting an apparel company. If i do not wanna buy junk but something not to massive, what size and model of Epilog was you recommend for a company beginning?
Epilog has been a great machine for me, both reliability wise and customer service as well. If you are looking for good starter machine that wont take up much space and can cut leather and engrave leather and lots of other materials check out the Epilog Mini 24. it has a 24 X12 work space. I have a Epilog M2 Fusion 32"X20" 120watt. But I specifically need this machine for all the work I do, so it may not be for everyone. Thanks!
How well does the adhesive hold up over time? It'd be great to see you try and peel the patch off after it dries... Can I make a sellable product with this method?..
Hi Josh, I have performed this test on few fabrics, cotton, polyester and some others, the bond is strong and when applied properly, tearing off the patch will tear the fabric its bonded to along with it, you should make some patches and try it your self, because ultimately if you are going to sell them the buck stops with you, you will have to make the final call 👍
@@LaserEngraving911 yeah that's what I'm talking about about👍..When I first got into making leather patch hat's I watched this video and was selling them with the spray on you showed. Everything seemed fine until after a few months..Summer months here, I'm in Texas, get very hot and that's when the complaints started coming in..I made things right with customers and never used it again...I don't blame you it's just part of figuring it out, you live and learn and adjust accordingly...Anyway I do enjoy your videos, keep them coming,God bless
I just subscribed. I am a disabled Veteran hoping to learn to make extra income with a Onefinity CNC, and eventually use it to buy a Co2 Laser Engraver. (I will be learning as I go I have no woodworking skills yet. I have dreamed of an Epilog Helix for over 10 years but life has not allowed that kind of income. I am looking at either Aeon Mira 9 X: 35.4" x Y: 23.625" x Z: 5.69" $12,603 (Plus Shipping and Handling) or a ThunderLaser Nova 35 Y: 35.4" x X: 23.6" x Z: 9.1" $9,100 or Nova 51 X: 51.2" x Y: 35.4" x Z: 9.1" $11,100 (The Nova 35 is just the right size for some products I have in mind but wondering if the larger Nova 51 would be something I could grow into as I learn, I will lose most of my Garage space though LOL. I was wondering could the laser also make the stitching holes in the patch edges or would I be better using a punch of some kind? Or do you think using glue to attach the patches is better?
Edward, yes you can create the holes in the art file and have the laser cut out the holes for stitching, that is a thing! I would def for for the larger bed if you can, like you said you can grow into it, sounds like you have been doing your research I would go with the company that offer the best customer support and has the most training opportunities personally.
I hope you see this at this late date. THAT WAS A MASTERS CLASS IN A FEW MINUTES. Thanks so much.
Thank You!
Best alignment tip I have seen. Thank you.
Your certainly welcome!
One suggestion... If you make your outer raster line slightly larger than the vector cutting line, one would not see a sliver of "raw" leather on the perimeter of the patch---essentially cutting over the "fat" perimeter line. Great technique and info!
cool
Geeze, I was tired when I typed that. I meant to say 3-4 oz leather. lol
Great video. You are the man bro! Brilliant! Cheers mates!!
Thank you for your advice
Any time
Thank you for the information. New to lasers and finding my way to how to make it a productive tool.
Thanks!
thank u for this video ! awesome hat
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video! new to laser and I was looking for how to make leather patches and you answered a bunch of my questions!!! Cheers!
Right On!
Cool! Cool! Drop dat knowledge brotha’!
Thanks for this content brother!
Just saw a video where they poured resin epoxy into a cut out and it was awesome. I know you have done painting your cut outs and the result was perfect. Maybe you could do a video using resin to color your project? I would like to see your spin on this technique.
😎😎
This is dope
Awesome! I’m glad I found you guys!
Nice job my laser brother from another mother! (same laser too)
Thank You Red Wolf.. Laser On!
Thank you!
The silicone mat that you used in the video to cover the patch while using the heat press is not mentioned in the materials/supplies list...you link to teflon sheets. Can you please tell me what you are using in the video to cover the patch? Thanks so much! Loved the video!
Hey Michele, you can get the exact one I'm using here at Stahls , good question www.stahls.com/heat-press-flexible-application-pad
@@LaserEngraving911 Thanks so very much....that was the product I thought you were using!
Great video 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Would that same laser be any good for laser engraving any kinds of metal?
Not So much, you will want a fiber laser for engraving lots of metal
Some great tips in this video. Thanks!
Thanks!
Can I do this in Lightburn? Researching which laser machine to buy as well as software.
You will need a Co2 Laser to do this, and one that can run the software Lightburn. Lightburn is great, but it needs to be paired with a Co2 laser system that meets your needs and one that is compatible with light burn. I woudl say dont get a Co2 laser less than 60watts
I love your videos! Would you be able to do a video in Corel draw how to design patch? Thank you so much for all you do!
Good video man! Thanks for showing your process.
Great idea with the 3M 90. Question: The label states that it is highly flammable. After its dried and you laser your patch are you getting any flames?
Non at all, never had an issue, thanks for the comment!
I realize this is an old tutorial but I will ask anyway, - That heat seems really high for polyester - how do you keep from melting the hat or the foam cushioning in the hat ?
The teflon shield will help a bit with scorching but doesn't poly melt around 265c ?
All good, there are thin silicone sheets to use instead of teflon, look into those
great video and very informative. I wonder if Loctite spray adhesive will work as well, and if this method will adhere leather patches to knit pull over hats like toboggans? Thanks for the helpful video.
oooo could work! you will have to try and report back!
Never heard of using this #m 90 for patches in a hat press. I am guessing the heat reactivates it? How does this compare to sheets of heat seal?
Heat Seal Sheets Are Great, and def worth using as well, I wanted to show how to use a product without having to have a large heat press to marry the heat seal sheet to the back of the leather. I think both are good option, the spray is re activated by the heat from the hat press yes.
@@LaserEngraving911 Thanks. OK I get that. Never heard of using 90 seems like an interesting idea
Sir, if you were any closer I'd bake you cookies and give you a HUG! you are a lifesaver. I've been doing leather for over 40 years now and those cutters are the bees knees! Thank you for the spray adhesive suggestion as well. I am totally inspired and appreciative. I do have a question though- I'm doing 3-4mm veg tanned leather pressing 300 for 20 seconds find it curling badly. Thoughts?
Yes, 🤣 The cutters are amazing, glad you find them useful. Regrading the thick leather, the only thing I can suggest is that you check out the double platen heat press by hotronix, it pricy! but it heats the cap from the bottom and top a the same time, might be best for thick leather, I don't work with that thickness, I I can imagine it challenging. also try preheating your surface first, before doing the final press.
Great video. I have an Epilog mini. Keep the vids coming!!!
Can you do this on the xtool software?
Can this be done on the S1 40w?
100% yes, the S1 is actually a great unit for making patches! and alot more! shrsl.com/4d8q2
Never seen heat press that produces a patch that won't peel up over time. A long term option is a bartack machine with several stock shape profiles to sew on the patches. Easiest way is to push customers to a general size like 3" circle or a 4" square. My machine has 120 shape profiles. can sew one on in 20 seconds that will last longer then they actual hat. You will get returns eventually on heat press patches. Especially in damp climates. Great video I enjoyed the actual engraving tips.
@@haastnation9922 Thanks for sharing, that is a cool method, since I have made this video, heat presses and thermal adhesive like lonestar adhesive have some along way,, and now with dual platen heat presses for hats, id have to say that , now there are patches that do not come off over time, but maybe in the early days this was true. I always like the look of real stitched hats too!
@@LaserEngraving911 only reason I mentioned it was a buddy who owns a very well known clothing co had a company manufacture iron on style patch hats. They got about 30 percent back so far. Maybe it was just a bad company skipping steps. It comes up a lot on videos as well with comparisons on stitching over heat transfers. Guess its random with tons of variables.
Great tutorial. I wanted to buy the spray adhesive, but I can't purchase in my state. Any other suggestions?
You can look at Heat Activated Tapes, they are kind of pricey but you can some samples.
Where can I buy a cappress ? I am from South Africa
jgelectronics.com/equipment-catalogue/
Looking inside your machine @11:46, I see what appears to be a modified exhaust pickup in the same plane as your bed.
Is this something you've designed yourself? I can only find a few bits of information on the internet regarding such and would appreciate any tidbits you could throw our way.
Hi Steven, the laser bed in my system is not modified, this is how it comes, what I think you are referring to is the vent system, yes it has ports that are level to the bed, and also the holes you see are to vent the down draft table as well. my unit suck air at the table level and underneath the table as well. drawing the air straight down. This is how Epilogs do their venting on most units.
@@LaserEngraving911 Yes, I can see that the bed wasn't modified. That's why I referred to the device as a modified exhaust pickup and not a modified bed. LOL
Wasn't aware that Epilog does their vent like that on the inside. Cool.
I have another brand laser that has the single 6" round port out the back. I'm planning on sealing that and developing a system that picks up on a horizontal plane like yours but actually go out the bottom of the machine. This way I can set the machine up on a roller cabinet and closer to the wall, exhaust out the bottom, into an activated charcoal based filtration system before passing outside.
Some math is going to be involved to be certain I don't reduce the area of the vent size.
I have a sheet metal brake and intend to keep the transient fire load minimized inside (I've seen some vent systems that were made from mdf or hard board).
Appreciate the quick response and the video!
@@stevenmarston8923 Gotcha
Hey man where do you get your leather from?
Hide House Napa California
To the Hatpress: 340°C oder 340°F ? Im new with heatpresses
340F Thanks!
Hey, what is that silicone rubber mat you put over the leather? I need one of those. Please
Get it at Stahls.. its heat pad.
Where can I order the hats wholesale?
Checkout Otto Cap, good starting point.
How does this patch adhesive hold up to being laundered? Is there a special way the caps should be laundered to protect the patches?
I would not launder a cap, unless the patch was stitched on. Not sure how the glue would hold up in a washing machine that's pretty extreme
How do you keep the ash from the engraved leather from smudging on the rest of the leather?
Hey Josh I would need to know what laser your using to cut leather and engrave, most of the time when I see lots of soot and ash, while engraving and cutting leather its because the power is too high, or maybe the air assist is not blowing correctly, or the leather being cut is very thick and the cut settings are not set right for that thick leather, also if I ever do get soot and ask, I just wipe it away with a clean rag and windex! works great. Also having a laser with a down draft pulling the air down and not just out the back helps as well. Hope that helps!
Baby wipes.
When lasering wood, there is a problem of ash
What about with leather?
And what about tempting the leather before burning it?
What about cow leather versus pig leather differences?
You will get alot of soot and ash when you have your air assist turned on while engraving, alot of machines now days require that you always have the air assist turned on, I because of the nozzle design. I recommend you have it turned doff IF you can while engraving only, this helps reduce charring and soot both on wood and leather.=, but if you cant, then it cleans up easy, any kind of leather will engrave and cut, but you will have different results in how it looks based on the type of hide used.
Just a follow-up to your exhaust system. What model BOFA filter system do you have. I ordered a Epilog Fusion Edge 50watt. I plan on doing leather and live in a fairly close to the neighbor housing area. I thought about just exhausting the fumes but after your comment I may upgrade. In your opinion how well does the BOFA absorb the smoke and fumes. Thanks for your videos, you are part of the reason I chose the Epilog.
HI John, I have the BOFA IQ500, it will do and excellent job removing all the smoke and particulates, from acrylic, wood, and other material including leather. however, when it comes to removing the "smell" of laser cut and engraved leather the BOFA and all other fumes extractor systems will NOT remove that smell completely. even when going through the extractor and pumping outside the smell is still there and your neighbors will notice it. This a leather specific issue with all fume extractors the smell is so pungent, that even high end extractors cannot remove it completely, I wish I had a better solution for you regarding controlling the smell of burnt leather but I have not found a good one yet. Hope this helps.
@@LaserEngraving911 Thanks for getting back to me. I guess, due to where I live, I will be using faux leather. My thinking is the smell, if any, will be much reduced and it's cheaper than moving. Have you had any experience with faux leather for patches. My other thought is, if the customer wants real leather, is to make a mold and press the image into the wet leather. Sorry for the follow-up question, I won't stalk you anymore.
@@fixedops123 Hey John, you will have NO problem filtering out the smell of faux leather with a BOFA, it will do an amazing job, but real leather is where the problem will be getting rid of the smell. Thanks for the questions and support!
Another awesome video bro. These lasers have so many ways to earn u money once ur willing to work hard and learn ur business. I watched the 10 things to make u fail in this business.. That was a very interesting watch too man.
Keep these awesome vids coming man. Love them. I think my shitty little Sculpfun laser can do smoe of this stuff but ur were right when u spoke about speeds when it comes to getting work done.
What software do u use? Is Lightburn good enough for this type of work and when u said about the vectors? U said JPEG's aren't good for this type of work for obvious reasons but why though? Genuine question bro.
What is the difference? I'm a complete dummie when it comes to this stuff. Where would u get those pics from or vectors as u called them? Is there a special website u go to get them, buy them I mean or whatever is involved? How does all that work? I realise I'm probably asking very basic questions here or maybe I'm asking really stupid questions.. LOL
I'm really interested in learning about all of this stuff bro.
Are there any video material on here u kow of that could give me a heads up? Thanks for this brilliant videos though man. It was defo an eye opener for me.. Salute form IRELAND!
Great Video! I just got a Fusion Pro 36x24 Dual Head Laser 50watt C02/50watt Fiber and I was wondering if you had any advice on the leather settings for 4-5 oz veg tan. I'm getting excellent results on the engraving with 300dpi Stucki 80speed/75power , I just can't seem to get the cutting settings without flare ups, currently using 35speed/85power/55freq. I do have air assist, but honestly am so new to lasering that I don't know if it's working or not. I know that many folks use masking tape of some kind, but I'd rather not for now. Also, I'm not far from Napa...are you pleased with the leather selection at the hide house? I've been wanting to go and check out their selection. Anyway, Thank You again for the great video and walking through many of the steps!!
Daniel, thanks for your support! all great questions, Id be happy to help guide you some more and talk to you further please reach out to me on my contact page and we can talk more about your leather cutting questions. www.laserengraving911.com/
Have you experimented at all with dyes? I’m buying veg tanned leather from Tandy and I know some people like the brown or more exotic colors of leather.
I have, its kinds messy but has cool results.
Do you have suggested settings with the new hotronix fusion iq hat press. I seem to be getting some overheating and completely losing adhesion.
I don't have have any experience with that new hat press, I use the old one, maybe try turning off the under heat pad and just use it with top heat, and less heat.👍
Great Content!!! I just find You! and I'm glad I did! Question, No way around from Corel Draw? for what I understand here, Thank You! 🌟👌🏼🙏🏼👍🏼
Thanks a lot Fidel many folks used Corel draw as their primary laser engraving software and for design, but the truth is you can also hook up Adobe Illustrator to Epilogs from what I understand, if its an Epilog, and if your not on Epilog or Trotec, you can use Corel and or Lightburn too! Linked to your laser engraver. I do all my design work on a separate computer using Adobe Illustrator, then I dump that file into Corel which is hooked up to my laser, I never design anything in Corel just use it to send stuff to laser. 👌
Awesome tutorial!! Subscribed already , newbie to my gf and all the many things possible .
My question would these adhere as well to a stocking type hat ....probably a smooth poly, not the old fashion knit type .
with enough pressure and the right heat should do well.
What exhaust system do you have? Mine is to loud!!!.
I am using a BOFA fume extractor, its quiet enough compared to standard exhaust fans. However the unit is kinda pricey and the filters are pricey to., BUT it really does what it says and filters out everything, I made the investment out of respect for surrounding business and neighbors so they didn't have to smell or breath the smoke and vapors coming from my lasers when I'm working.
do they come off using thicker 4/5oz leather?
Haven't tried the thick 4-5oz leather so far, but I imagine if you can get the heat from your hat press to pass thought that thick leather and active the adhesive ,like maybe with the new dual heated platent style hat press from Hotronix, I don't see why not! Good Question!
Love this video! So helpful. I’m just starting to learn AI. Your instructions were easy to understand and follow. I hope you will consider doing a video showing how to add a faux stitch line around the patch
Thank You!
Hey. Just curious how you clean the patches before applying the oil? I find that the charring left behind from the engraving can be a bit of a pain. Any help would be super helpful.
Great question, if you are getting lots of charring, you might be running to much power and too slow of speed. We all want to get a nice deep engraving because it looks cool, but sometimes its better to do two passes as less power and faster speed to get depth without charring. You will always have little sooting, with leather but it should be minimal. if you have your setting correct. Try fast speed lower power 2 passes.
Hi there! Thanks for the video...so helpful :) With the 3M adhesive, is your laser "heat" cutting affected by the adhesive on it already? I have a hat press but wasn't sure about cutting the patches with an adhesive already on it!
Good Question! No it is not affected at all. Since its a localized cut is has no affect on the rest of the adhesive.
What program are you using to make the designs?
Adobe Illustrator
I was under the impression that 3M 90 was a contact adhesive, not a heat activated one. I am confused. Can you help with an explanation???
when you using a heat press you can re-melt the glue, and use it as an adhesive to mount the patch.
@@LaserEngraving911 Unique application to say the least. Thinking outside of the box. Thank you for the reply.
So your using the 3m 90 Spray adhesive? being a contact cement doesn't it have to be sprayed on both parts Patch and Hat? Dried first? then applied, or does the heat activate the one piece being sprayed, sorry I searched and searched and everything I have found including the 3m site says both piece need application dried then pressed, appreciate your video and all your help in answering questions
Its the heat that reactivates it.
Where can I get the tool you used to cut leather any help with that please, thank you 🙏🏽
You can get them here they are awesome! amzn.to/36ABMbw
I've tried this a few times in last couple days on a test shirt. Idk if maybe I'm doing something wrong but it seems to peel off quite easy. Have you had any problem like this on the hats? I let the adhesive dry for 24 hours.
Hey There, typically when I was in the first experimental stage of creating this process, I found that when my patches were not sticking to the medium it was because I wasn't using enough adhesive or my heat was not set right, or I was not using enough pressure on my hat press, once I figured all those out , I have never had any issue since. Good luck in your testing, and thanks for the comment!
God morning 🌞
I'm having a problem, I did make 20 hats and now they're coming back to me because the patches are coming out.
3M is not holding 😮
Any suggestions Please 🙏🥺
HI There, Ill see if I can help! But I need alot more information, can you please email me directly on my website. www.laserengraving911.com Thanks!
How do you enlarge an image to fit on a 2 3/4 inch by 3 3/4 inch cap badge?
ruclips.net/video/ud30oqht7MQ/видео.html
Do you know if the .2 hair will
Work on gravograph Gravograph has some shitty training. Your are great. Thanks for the tips.
What thickness leather u using
2-3oz roughly, you can use thicker leather you just need to apply more heat when mounting, that's where the new hotronix hat press comes in handy because it it heats below and from the top at the same time, so it would be an excellent choice for thicker leather, hope that helps!
Would you recommend the same process if I wanted to make moral patches with velcro backings?
I would do research on laser cutting the velco and make sure its not PVC based or some material that is not laser safe, in theory its totally possible just make sure you never laser cut material that is not laser safe to cut. Great question!
What is your heat guard made out of
Silicone
What lazer do you have?
Epilog M2 Fusion 120watt, great machine! made in USA supported in USA
Got a question, that adhesive. Does it bond permanently? Have you had any complaints about them coming off?
I have not, application is key, and right amount of adhesive as well, Im sure there are some materials it will not bond to well out in the world, just like with everything, but so far I have had good feedback on the work I have done using this method.
awesome video. I have saved the hotronix and epilog laser machines from earlier research for starting an apparel company. If i do not wanna buy junk but something not to massive, what size and model of Epilog was you recommend for a company beginning?
Epilog has been a great machine for me, both reliability wise and customer service as well. If you are looking for good starter machine that wont take up much space and can cut leather and engrave leather and lots of other materials check out the Epilog Mini 24. it has a 24 X12 work space. I have a Epilog M2 Fusion 32"X20" 120watt. But I specifically need this machine for all the work I do, so it may not be for everyone. Thanks!
My Epilog Mini 24 works amazingly for doing patches 👌
How is that 3M 90 sprey?
U think thats what little river custom ? Its a leather Patches company
Baseball Glove Oil
How well does the adhesive hold up over time? It'd be great to see you try and peel the patch off after it dries... Can I make a sellable product with this method?..
Hi Josh, I have performed this test on few fabrics, cotton, polyester and some others, the bond is strong and when applied properly, tearing off the patch will tear the fabric its bonded to along with it, you should make some patches and try it your self, because ultimately if you are going to sell them the buck stops with you, you will have to make the final call 👍
Hey I'm sorry!
I did jump to conclusions just because my son told me they did come off, but finding out later he didn't use the 3M90. My apologies
All good, if you still need any advice you can always email me just use the contact for on the website. Thanks!
@@LaserEngraving911 Thank you
I need some leather patches made. How do we get ahold of you?
Hi Doyle, happy to help. You can get a hold of me for work at www.sonomalaserengraving.com Thanks
All sprays are temporary.
Use proper adhesive this stuff does NOT hold up for very long
ruclips.net/video/wKbiFjUK0uQ/видео.html
@@LaserEngraving911 yeah that's what I'm talking about about👍..When I first got into making leather patch hat's I watched this video and was selling them with the spray on you showed. Everything seemed fine until after a few months..Summer months here, I'm in Texas, get very hot and that's when the complaints started coming in..I made things right with customers and never used it again...I don't blame you it's just part of figuring it out, you live and learn and adjust accordingly...Anyway I do enjoy your videos, keep them coming,God bless
Excellent video, but annoying background "music".
I just subscribed. I am a disabled Veteran hoping to learn to make extra income with a Onefinity CNC, and eventually use it to buy a Co2 Laser Engraver. (I will be learning as I go I have no woodworking skills yet. I have dreamed of an Epilog Helix for over 10 years but life has not allowed that kind of income. I am looking at either Aeon Mira 9 X: 35.4" x Y: 23.625" x Z: 5.69" $12,603 (Plus Shipping and Handling) or a ThunderLaser Nova 35 Y: 35.4" x X: 23.6" x Z: 9.1" $9,100 or Nova 51 X: 51.2" x Y: 35.4" x Z: 9.1" $11,100 (The Nova 35 is just the right size for some products I have in mind but wondering if the larger Nova 51 would be something I could grow into as I learn, I will lose most of my Garage space though LOL. I was wondering could the laser also make the stitching holes in the patch edges or would I be better using a punch of some kind? Or do you think using glue to attach the patches is better?
Edward, yes you can create the holes in the art file and have the laser cut out the holes for stitching, that is a thing! I would def for for the larger bed if you can, like you said you can grow into it, sounds like you have been doing your research I would go with the company that offer the best customer support and has the most training opportunities personally.