My 2013 f150 ecoboost had this shutter. After watching this video I contacted my local transmission shop and told him my symptoms and I said I think I need a torque converter. Long story short they drove it and ended up just changing my transmission fluid and filter. I have around 160k and had never changed it. It immediately fixed the problem. The shop says that about 90% of the time this has fixed the shutter problem. Shout out to Powertrain Specialties in Gonzales Louisiana for being so honest and not selling me a huge job that was unnecessary.
Alot of this is the non serviceable yoke check videos I have.a raptor amd it's from creeping to 4 mph replace the tqc and yoke with a greasable one and your good
You nailed it. That’s the noise I was hearing. Mine normally does it around 50-60 mph and going up slight incline with little gas as normal. I was told to use instant shudder fix by lube guard as a diagnostic tool. My 2016 f150 2.7 eco boost with 112,000 miles is what I have. Only started hearing is a couple of days ago.
Wish there were more Honest Mechanics like yourself out here !! It’s so hard to find a great mechanic that’s not trying to take you for all you’re worth. 🤦🏼♂️
The problem is when you go to the dealer you're usually dealing with the service guy not the mechanic. The service guy is usually the one that will try to slide in your backdoor with no vaselline.
Exactly! As technicians we get a bad wrap When you have lazy ass service writers who want to be mechanics and tell you a bunch of shit that we never told them or they’re too damn lazy to ask questions so the technician can diagnose it properly. Just like going to the doctor, you have to ask the right questions so you can diagnose it quickly and properly. Quit wasting our time Because when we’re on commission and we’re trying to find out the customer complaint and it comes down to the service writers not doing his job and asking and relaying info back to us so we spend more time than needed so that cost gets put to the customer. I hate lazy ass service people because I want to know the customer complaint so I can probably diagnose it and fix it and move on and make my money. The more they jerk us around the more the customer gets charged for wasted time if we can even charge the customer. So many times we have to eat it. So don’t always blame the tech, lazy ass service people make it worse for the customers and the techs!
You guys work on transmissions!! Our local dealer doesn’t even mess with them , they ship them off somewhere, and it takes FOREVER!!! Luv your channel.👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Lubegard shudder fix after a fluid and filter change has worked on every f150 6r80 owner I've spoken to. Including myself. Some report still no issues after 65k miles!
Just bought a 2016 F-150 with 3.5 a month ago with 88,000 miles as a Ford Blue Certified vehicle. Two days later I know there is something wrong with the transmission. Driving down the highway I was getting that rumble strip feel. Of course salesman thinks it probably just the tires out of balance. Long story short after 3 weeks at the dealer, and nearly $4000 later according to dealership, the torque converter was replaced and the shutter is gone. And thankfully I did not have to pay a single dime for it either.
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for your honesty. I am dropping my truck off today to have this work done at 117k miles. Im under warranty until 125k. 2015 F150. Bottom line is, you sir are a good man. I thank you for your honesty and willingness to not scam folks. Good honest mechanics are extremely hard to find brother. Keep it up.
@@Patrick-ik1bi nope. I was under the milage limit but missed the warranty date by 3 days by the time I could get into have it fixed. Cost me $3000 to get it done. :(
Thank you!! that's the problem i'm having. Took my 17' Expedition to the dealership. They wanted to charge almost $2900 to replace the transfer case. I didn't think that made sense that the vibration/noise was coming from there. I will call a transmission shop for advice .
Dude I love your videos. Have a 2017 F150 that I bought brand new and have had zero issues with it (other than a small part on the pano roof that broke at 20k miles and replaced under warranty). But about 3 months ago it started doing the shudder EXACTLY as you described. Under light load in 6th at about 65-70 mph, just a little bit of throttle I kept thinking I was literally drifting onto a rumble strip. And thank you so much for giving us all an idea of what it should cost. I'm fairly handy and can do most jobs on the truck myself but transmission work just scares the bejesus out of me. I have no experience messing with trannys and am getting ready to take the truck on a 3 year journey with my family next summer touring the national parks and I'm getting the truck in tip top shape to tow a 30' travel trailer.
thank you for this video.This was exactly what my truck was doing. i had to rebuild the torque converter and some of the transmission at 120k it started at 118k miles on my 2015 f150.
Finally someone who can give me an explanation to what I was feeling on my truck. Super helpful and informative man! Subscribed!! Couldn’t find anything anywhere! Thank you for this, and keep up the good work!
Excellent video. Your description of the rumble strips is exactly what I told the dealer. I am replacing the torque converter in my 2016 F150 with the 5.0 V8 today. Little more than the cost you stated but I trust the dealership. Thank you, this is great. I hope to drive this truck at least 10 years total.
Lubegard Shudder stop in 130,000 mile old fluid stopped my '15 2.7 F150 shudder for 10,000 miles. At 140,000 miles the shudder came back. Drained the fluid (brown), changed the filter (pan and magnets were very clean), and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. Driving fine again, and I think the 5-4 downshift is better than it was. If shudder comes back soon, I'm going to try additives, probably a lubegard product, along with a 3 gallon flush through a cooler line.
Thanks for making this video, and it made me certain that thats what going on in my moms truck. Its a 2017 f150, started around 45,000 and currently had 50,000 miles. The truck isn’t driven hard and she never tows with it
Thays the problem light driving wears the clutch packs and mkre debris ends up in tbe oil. Harder accelartion to lock up trabs clutches lasts themclonger and better fuel milage obviously bot punching it
my 2016 F160 is at the dealer right now having this replaced. the way you described the issue (rumble strip) is exactly what's been happening. you nailed the symptoms. Cost of job (GULP), just over $2,500. happened at 105,000 miles.
Man, thanks that’s exactly what was wrong with my transmission at 140,000 miles they started getting the road strip vibration I really took care of my transmission. I don’t feel bad anymore now that I know it’s a common problem. Thanks bro!!
2016 F150, 5.0 engine, torque converter replaced At 44,000 miles. Currently at dealer for replacement at 55,000 miles. Not a harsh driver or continuous trailer puller. Luckily under warranty, but they don’t get in a hurry with warranty work!
Seen a fair amount of forums with guys swapping fluid and filter and adding lubegard platinum and it fixes the issue. Like 40-100,000 miles and its still going but still a good vid 👍
Your the only one that described my issue spot on! My truck is making the sounds just line its running over the the warning ridges on the side or in the middle of the rd. Ive done all the idiot proof things and couldn't figure it out. I called a AAMco we've come to trust and the woman told me that's most likely what it was. Welp I have no way of testing it out so I needed to do some homework. Sounds like the both of you are right. Ford had my truck for 3 weeks and still couldn't get to it. Ugh! When I got the truck it had so.e issues but nothing I couldn't fix. The biggest thing is it's gonna hurt my bank account. But thank you for posting this video, no matter if it was a couple yrs old it still help me Tremendously. Keep up the good and honest work! Much love from the great state of Georgia! 🍑🥜🍉❤❤❤❤
Cheers dude.. that was a great video.. Had my truck at Ford today for a diagnosis.. they couldnt figure it out, but you nailed exactly my symptoms . Thx!
Another thing that should help is doing a transmission service at 30 000 and 60 000 miles so that way you help get alot of the small metal filings from the transmission breaking in out of there. If they're allowed to acumulate too much. They'll actually start shorting out your shift solenoids intermittently. Thats another potential issue with these transmissions if you don't do those first 2 services. It wouldn't surprise me if it screws up your torque converter too. Just on a side note thats something else I've learned about these particular transmissions.
I’m pretty sure just like many others you describe my situation as well. My question is does this condition worsen if you don’t do anything with it? Will the torque converter eventually just give out and fail?
Alright, as a fellow ford trans tech, I ALWAYS take a fluid sample first and check for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If there’s an indication of possible debris, I quote removing the pan to look for ferrous metal or other material debris. With that sample or evidence, I then either continue on with the normal converter replacement and the heated cooler flush machine procedure OR quote a unit due to the warranty they get with it or overhaul if units are on backorder or too far out if there is excessive metal contamination. Only if the person had been driving for a long amount of time with the issue have I seen true metal contamination due the problem compounding on an underlying concern. 6f35s in the Explorer 2.3s - Remember those? Converters would completely infect the entire transmission leading to an instructed replacement of the main control assembly, converter, and complete overhaul to clean out any contaminants and replace any affected parts. Do not for a minute believe every transmission in need of a converter is immune to this possibility. Always get a fluid sample, quote dropping the pan to be sure if the fluid is burnt or highly contaminated, and always flush the cooler.
I have a 2009 F150 with 5.4 and 312K miles on the original motor and transmission. Today it started vibrating (similar to a misfire, but with no check engine light) upon light acceleration at highway speeds (around 70mph/2100 RPM). It sounds like this might be exactly what I'm experiencing. It also tends to happen at the bottom of a slight incline in the road.
Mason, Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80. I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2. We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem. Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens. Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the last 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change. After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear. We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it. What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home. Now I’m thinking torque converter too. Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans? Where would the fluid have come from? It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
I’d put a lead frame in it and check it. The vibration may not be related to it sticking in 6th gear. It may need a converter later on but from what your describing it sounds like a lead frame to me. Before you put it in I would check with your dealer because there is actually a recall on some of them extending the warranty out to 150K. Those lead frames are notorious for going out and making one stick in a higher gear. You also should be able to tell when you drop the pan if the converter is going out because it’s gonna be covered in thick clutch material. Not just black, it should be full of debris if the converter has issues. Hope that helps you some.
@@FlyingWrenches13 mason, thank you for the reply. I will keep you posted on what I find. I am just getting back in this project after being out of town for a couple weeks. Phil
Mine does this in 6th too like will go up in RPM a little when cruising at like 40 MPH and I have a exhaust so you can definitely hear it it’s always done this tho and if I give sit gas and go up to 50 mph it will go away
Your videos are awesome, and really helpful for even me as a machanic my self , but I will say we have fixed multiple 6r80 converter shutters over the years with servicing the transmission with Chrysler fluid, its slicker and seems to do the trick and we haven't had any come back with it back to shuddering, we also like to use an anti shudder additive for extra protection, this has also worked for many other models, with the exptoin of wetal or clutch lining in the fluid or pan.
I was thinking about putting Mobil1 HP LV Blue label (GM 8 speed shudder fix) in my '15 F150. I even bought it. I put Lubegard Shudder stop in my 130,000 mile fluid and it stopped the shudder for 10,000 miles. It's back at 140,000 miles, so I did a filter, pan with a drain, and filled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. The fluid was brown, but almost nothing in the pan or on the magnets. If the shudder comes back, I flush about 3 gallons through cooler line, and add lubegard's recommended additive. I think it's called Platinum.
I've got a 2017 F-150 and you exactly described the symptoms it's having right now. I took it to a local dealership and they said the entire transmission needed replaced... and it would cost $8500!!! After watching this I'm thinking it might be a good idea to take it to a different dealership.
I hope I’m not too late. But have you tried the lubeguard shutter fixx? I thought my torque converter went bad but when I put the shudder fix in the tranny, it doesn’t shudder anymore. All I need to do now is change the fluid.
@@Foxbody302 i did actually and ya it helped, got rid of the shudder. Still getting a whirring or slight grinding sound tho, gona take it to a local transmission place on thursday to take a closer look at it. They suggested it may just need the fluid changed as well. The fluid definitely looked like it was in need of changing when i added the shudder fixx. Funny part is i had the aforementioned dealership change the fluid less than 20k miles ago, i guess they just didn't.
Had a few that have came in for these exact concerns, seems to happen more after the leadframe replacement. The last 3 I’ve done have came after another shop All shuttering, becoming so much more common in all ford vehicles.
Ford runs these transmissions too hot and use the torque converter clutch a lot more aggressively than in the past for fuel economy reasons. It's the reason GM has had torque converter issues too (running too hot and locking up in nearly every gear).
This video is incredibly helpful. Our 2015 Ford Transit with 95,000 miles has a really bad torque converter shudder. They Magic City Ford in Lexington quoted us $7,200 to replace the torque converter. Should I get other estimates or should I do it myself. For less than $5000, I can put a two-post lift in my garage, purchase a transmission jack and the torque converter and do the job myself. About how heavy is the 6R80 transmission?
So the transit is a whole different animal. If you have a rwd transit the subframe has to come out. The subframe cage nuts are notorious for spinning and if they do you got big problems. They are actually encased in the body, you can’t get to them without cutting a hole in the body. If your very mechanically inclined i would try it but don’t think it’s going to be as easy as a normal truck. I usually charge about 12 hours labor just to pull and put on a transit. If you have a fwd transit with a 6f35 they are a cake walk if you’ve removed fwd transmissions before. The 6r80 isnt any heavier than any of the old aod’s, 700r’s, or 4l60’s.
3.3 & 3.8L Caravans (incl Voyager and Town & Country minivans) were bad about this. What sucked was my dealer (back in the 90’s) would not warranty the work unless trans was gone through. Even though the pan was clean and no coffee grinds in it, no warranty unless overhaul. The 4 speed (42RE, 44RE, and 46RE rear drives were bad at smoking the TCC but you never felt it. Never had a TCC fail in a 47RE as this one was behind the Cummins and was able to take the extra loads in OD. The pcm on the gas engine transmission was programmed to lock the clutch too early and would not unlock for moderate acceleration there by punishing the TCC. The bigger the oversized tires & wheels the sooner the TCC would fail.
Pretty sure this is my problem in my 2016 F150 with 140K miles. I have been chasing a misfire but believe this is it. Hope it is covered under extended warranty.
Good video! While I agree most transmissions don’t need to be overhauled, some torque converters fall apart and spread fine metal throughout the trans. At a minimum it should be recommended to disassemble and inspect the main control. The 6f35 is the worst and needs an overhaul once the converter fails and pushes that gray sludge every where. I’ve done way more 6f35s than 6r80s, you should do a video on that one.
Thanks man. I’ve done a ton of 6f35’s too. Always overhaul those things no matter what lol if not they will be back. I’m gonna do one here pretty soon. I have one to tear down here in the next week so maybe I’ll get to record some of that.
Hi!!! I have a escape with this trans 6f35 and now when accelerating like overtake its shutter..could be just the converter? Or i need to repair the trans to?? Here en my country is like expensive and poor of parts😢
@@pablomachucachavez1014 My girlfriend has a Ford Escape. It was shuddering when it shifted. I told her to have the transmission flushed. She did and it fixed the problem. It’s been about nine months and it hasn’t returned. Relatively cheap fix. My F150 on the other hand has the same issue. I had it flushed however it did not fix the problem. I’m beginning to think it’s the torque converter.
My 2016 F-150 did this. Bought it from original owner at 123K. He pulled some with it. Took it to trans shop, they put a tube of shudderfix in it $12. Problem instantly went away. However they said it was a temporary solution. Fluid was pretty cooked. They suggested flushing fluid, replace with new as well as filter. Cant get all the old fliud out as a lot of it is in converter and valve body. So they recommended changing fluid and filter again to dilute the bad fluid. I did this myself after 10K, have put another 5K or so on it. Seems to have cured it. However it does sometimes stall when idling in gear. I dont know if that's separate issue or not.
Definitely the video I needed! Thank you for the honest and well explained video. Totally nailed the noise. I’ve been saying it feels like rumble strip vibrations lol 😂. My 2015 F-150 has 85000 miles. Off to the shop 🤦♂️
Ford used to recommend a full flush for the 4R70W when there was shutter. Then maybe dr tranny shudder fix. Wouldn't it be worth trying that first? Sometimes the modifiers get depleted. This is often caused by overheated fluid. Best to add an additional cooler. These trans have thermostats, you can't overcool the fluid.
@@FlyingWrenches13 I was watching another channel and he was showing the thermal valve in the trans for the cooler. Said if trans isn't up to temp fluid just circulates thru cooler lines and not trans. What are your thoughts?
Just Bought a 2019 F-150 10 spd. drove it 180 miles from the seller. I noticed this vibration at cruising speed; 70, 80 mph. I was wondering how to describe this vibration sound to a mechanic until I watched your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'm taking it in for a fluid/filter change tomorrow to see if that fixes it. maybe it will clear it out enough, or do you think I should have him add "Shutter fix" to the new transmission fluid??? Any suggestions ? ?
Man, I was really liking this video till you brought up price lol. Just picked up my 15 expedition from a 3rd party shop that obviously wanted to change the whole trans out, as you said. Thinking about doing a drain and fill and seeing how that works out. Thanks for the great info.
Ughhhhh, mine started doing this about 2 months ago, didn’t become a huge problem until recently. I’m going to see if I can try the temporary fix, just to see if that is actually the cause, if it is, i’ll see if i can get it done locally.
I recently purchased online, sight unseen from a very popular dealership a 2012 Ford F-150-XLT 121k miles, 3.7L with 6R80 trans. It finally arrived to my home two weeks after buying it. When I finally got around to taking it out for a first run, I immediately noticed an annoying rumbling and vibration in the seat. It came with passenger car tires so I took it to tire shop for four brand new truck tires. Still rumbles. Then I replaced the two-piece driveshaft assembly with carrier bearing. Still rumbles. I'm thinking now I have a rearend issue with pinion bearing/race or the ring gear. As truck came with an active Ford recall for speed sensor, I made an appointment with Ford dealer and informed them of the constant rumbling/vibration issues especially at highway speed. I have owned this truck almost two months now and haven't even put on the first 100-miles, dropped truck off at Ford dealer. After third day in shop, they called me and informed me the rearend is okay but they have to replace the transmission which is under a 60-month/60,000 mile warranty. I don't know anything more than that but should have truck back with new tranny some time next week. Except for maybe the torque converter, I don't know what else inside the transmission could've caused these symptoms and issues but FMC is taking care of it.
I bought a 6.2L 11 F150. Has some shudder ONLY when cold, when climbing grades in 5 or 6. Above 180 deg trans temp, I can drive the same mountain roads and no shudder. Shifting is otherwise pretty good. I also noticed some fluid sweating by the rear pan bolts (not the connector gasket). Guess I should be checking the fluid level?
Got a new subscriber here. The rumble strip description fits perfect. I've been trying to figure it out on my 15' expedition it just started at 157k. I keep throttling around trying to figure out if it's the turbos i just replaced or what but it makes sense since its only when its still in lockup on feather light throttling mainly going up hills. It's worse with cruise on so on the big hills I make it downshift thanks for your video I'll be sure to check out some others. One of my next ventures is replacing the vacuum pump.
I've been having a similar problem on my 2017 Ford Transit 150 cargo 3.7 flex fuel 6 SPD 6r80 with 300,000 mi but it didn't start out noticeable like a vibration. I drive about 250 mi a day 5 days a week. When I first started noticing a difference was after long weeks if I drove 1300 to 1500 mi in a week toward the end of the week and at the end of the day on friday it would feel just a little rough in shifting and a little vibration but I would park it for the weekend and the next week it would be just fine. If I had another busy week toward the end of the week it would feel a little rough. If my week was lighter I didn't notice it at all. This happened for 16,000 mi. As the weeks went on it got slightly a little worse and I mean slightly. It was still very hard to figure out what the problem was. I took it to two or three different transmission shops and the Ford dealership where I normally get service done and without testing, driving or looking at it they are all saying we're going to need to change the transmission just drive it until It's undrivable. Personally I like to be proactive and get something fixed that can be fixed before it fails completely I can't afford to be off the road. This was all during the summer and I assumed it's probably overheating a little. But now that fall is here and we're getting close to winter the nights are cold and when I go to the van in the morning and take off if I don't let it warm up for a few minutes there's a noticeable whirring sound until it gets a warmer. So I'm certain it's the torque converter now especially after listening to this video and others like it. At 300,000 mi is it worth replacing the torque converter? The transmission seems to be shifting just fine especially when I use the button to shift if I use the manual shifting setting. When it's in drive it seems to overheat if I drive more than 200 mi in a day for a week. I know that if I don't do something soon the torque converter can fail and pieces of metal can fall out into the transmission. I don't think we're there yet. Any advice? Oh and a side question I keep hearing these horror stories of transmission shops having a hard time taking off the crossbar support the frame bolts get stuck and they have to cut it out. Is that your experience as well being a Ford transmission serviceman?
2010 5.4 with 225k with the same issue. Curious if it's detrimental to just leave it alone and accelerate through it? Idk I don't mind dropping the 2k to fix it but is it more of an annoyance or should really address it??
I’ve got a ‘15 F-150 with the 6R80 and around 80k that I’m almost positive this is the case. Took it to the local Ford dealer, they told me the “miss” I am feeling is likely plugs. They said they pulled a couple of them and said they needed changed. Wanted to charge $500 to change plugs. Ha! I replaced all the plugs with new motorcraft plugs myself and it was still happening. I dropped the tranny pan and replaced the filter and topped off the fluid. It was better for a little bit, but is doing it again. It also seems to be way underpowered and it seems like you have to get waaay in to the pedal to get it to downshift going up an incline or pulling a light load. That sound like a converter issue to you? My question is if it is, and I put a new Ford converter in it, are the new ones any better than the ones put in at the factory? I don’t wanna have to do it again! I wish I could find a shop or manufacturer of an aftermarket converter that would bulletproof it so I wouldn’t have to do it again.
Yeah that’s a really good question. I don’t know if they re designed it or not. I don’t think they did. I will say that once I change the converter and flush well I’ve never seen one come back. If it were me I would replace mine with the oem converter. I would trust it more than I would an aftermarket. Hope that helps.
I don’t know if you fixed this issue but try changing your throttle body. I had a similar issue with my 2013 3.7 3.55 RC-RWD it was very sluggish and spark plugs didn’t fix it but after throttle body replace it is a lot better not 100%. Im thinking it could be the lead frame. It struggled to get in gear, one time in winter it reved without going in gear and sometimes it just accelerates without problems. This has been happening since 4x,000 miles and I changed throttle body at 8x,000 miles.
Any info on older fords? Just started driving a 2001 f150 I bought a while ago and it feels like misfiring. PID doesn’t show any misfire counts and there was a misfire code on cylinder 1 that I had fixed. Not sure if misfire is gone but PIDS don’t show any counts. Still feels like it’s missing even at idle. Thanks for video I’ll probably just replace it myself soon since I can do it for cheap myself
Flying Wrenches, Would you care to go in depth what actually is breaking/tearing up in the torque converter? ie: pump,, stator, just wondering what is actually Failing. Thank you
This videos its great how you explained, have the same concern I thought it was the bearing from the diff but never pass through mi mine it would be the Torque Converter. Does that a recall? For some trucks?
Thank you so much for this video, it answered a lot of my questions. However, the issue with my 2012 Ford F-150 was hard shifting, speedometer going to zero, and a 720 Engine Code. Transmission place said TC needs to be replaced, along with a transmission overhaul to clean out all the metal debris. Does this sound about right to you? I'm assuming metal debris was getting in-between the lead frame and solenoids causing the error code and thus the hard shifting. Do you agree?
Hello - great vid. Thanks. I am in talks with a mechanic who quoted me $1650 to put in a new torque converter and rebuild the transmission. This seems low, as Ford quoted me $3000. After Ford put in a new rear seal (for $1500), the shuddering/kicking/bucking, etc was still happening. Ford finally let me drive around a technician and the technician said definitively that it's the torque converter. Just wondering where to go to figure this all out. I feel a little suspicious paying $1650 for something that is usually twice as much. Just need some peace of mind, I guess. Thanks, Abe
There is no way that someone is pulling your trans, replacing the TC, and over hauling it for $1650. The Torque converter alone cost close to $1000. All the other clutches, steels, seals, one time use pistons, and fluid would probably cost the remainder. I wouldn’t trust that price at all. Also, not really any need to overhaul. Just flush the trans, new filter, new TC, and new fluid. You should be good to go after that.
I just got the shutter start on my 1998 ford expedition with the E4OD after 230,000 miles. I tried the Lubegard shutter fix, but doesn't seem to work. Its not a consistent problem either, comes up every once in a while. Bought the vehicle for $1800 about 8 years ago and put 100,000+ miles on it. So for me, it's not worth the $2000 to fix it.
I wonder if this is the shudder I’m feeling. I feel the shudder in the front end and it happens mostly when I accelerate or have it in cruise and push the acceleration button on the steering wheel. I’ll call my ford dealer and ask what they think. Out of curiosity would a possibly worn CV axle rod in a 2012 F-150 Ecoboost give a shudder? I have 250,000 miles on it
Great video, but one key thing when you service your transmission do not drain the fluid and replace it with brand new fluid! You will for sure after doing that need a whole transmission overhaul! What you want to do is drain the old fluid, filter it and then put it back in the transmission with a new transmission filter. Once the old filtered fluid is back in the transmission then you add new fluid as needed to meet your proper fluid levels!
2015 expedition. Used shutter fix 3 months ago and the shudder went away. Had the trans serviced along with an oil change last Friday(fluid and filter) and now I have a whining noise. I took a video of the noise, not sure how I can share it with you. Local Ford dealers are scheduling over a month out and trying to avoid any more damage by driving it. Looking for a 2nd opinion.
Hi awesome video just found ur channel.I just bought a 01 f150 lariat 5.4 I’m new to ford but when I put it in reverse I hear a like pop and really at any speed when I let of the accelerator there’s a bad vibration till I’m steady bk on the gas.have u ever seen this ?Im new to ford but the truck was single owner it shifts really smooth as well
I'm starting to get these same symptoms on my 2011 F150 4x4 lariat with 287,000 miles. I change the fluid in mine every 2 years no matter the mileage. Transmission shifts fine and no leaks, just the skip/ shutter. Would you replace just the torque Converter/filter trans oil or rebuild?
I have a question regarding this issue. I don’t have torque shudder but I was wondering if you have experience using shift kits/drop in valves? I have seen them say they help/reduce torque converter issues. I was thinking of adding one when I change my fluid and filter.
Just subd. Good information on that converter. My owners manual says to begin transmission fluid changes at 150k. Doesn’t sound right to me. Its a 16 f-150.
That is actually where Ford recommends changing transmission fluid on most of there vehicles now. It wouldn’t hurt to start at 100k though if you wanted too.
Very informative video! My 10R80 on a 2017 has just started shuttering at low speed (15 mph) under light acceleration after being in an overdrive gear above 55mph. Had been having clunking issues once tranny is warm, which the dealer didnt fix (clunk when tapping on gas and clunk when breaking hard, not the slip yoke). They did a pcm relflash and the shuttering started. Any ideas?
@@FlyingWrenches13 they greased it and the clunk is still there. My first thought was excessive backlash in the rear diff, bad bearing, or loose transmission mount. But since it get worse after its at operating temperature, and now have developed a stutter on occasion, I’m almost thinking thinking inside the trans or torque converter.
Yeah that is possible. Maybe a damaged one way or planetary set. Noises like that can be really hard to find. By the way “freaked” was supposed to be greased in that last reply lol
@@FlyingWrenches13 taking it in tomorrow. Thinking it has to be the torque converter or something in the transmission. Noticed yesterday when it was shuttering that it went always when it up shifted. Today while it was shuttering I put it into neutral and it immediately stopped and was smooth.
I have a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost that started doing this when driving cross country. Took it in when we go to our destination and the Shop said it was torque converter shudder, that they had found I was low on trans fluid and that what fluid was in there was "black as engine oil". They serviced the transmission, drained some of the burnt fluid and added in new fluid until full. Seemed to be much better for a week after that but then started shuddering again once we hooked the trailer back up to it and started on our way home. It only shudderes going up a hill while pulling a trailer though. Once you unhook the trailer it seems to work normally. Is this just the beginning stages of shudder? Or something different?
It for sure sounds like torque converter shutter. I’ve never seen one that only does it when hooked to a trailer though. If it is indeed the converter it should do it under a light acceleration on a incline.
I am having this issue as well only when towing. Did you figure out what it ultimately was yet? Mine only does it after 50mph and above. Slightly better at 60-65 but after that forget it.
Quick question: Is a slight rise in engine RPM during this shudder indicative of it happening in/being the torque converter? This is what I've noticed on my 2010 F150's 6R80.
Is it something that has to be replaced quick mason? As in when it starts shuddering should you get it replaced immediately? Or is it just an annoying noise
Great video nailed it im having this happen while in 5th under light throttle byt not enough for to downshift under load i guess you can say ... im at 215k. Miles do you think it would be ok to replace TC along with with filter and fluid or will this cause more harm then good ?
Hello, awesome channel. My 2018 F-150 5.0 is making a ratcheting noise when you let off the gas between 1200-1800 RPMs, way more noticeable when the engine is cold. The dealer where I’m at seems to be confused, they’re replacing the torque converter, I don’t think that’s a good fix. I’ve seen several other post about this issue with no solution, any ideas? Thank you
My friend has a 10' F150 with this issue. Truck has 250k on it and transmission shifts perfectly. Would you recommend a rebuild or just a tc replacement? Keeping truck most likely.
Sent you the link to a video that shows exactly what’s going on with my truck (2017 f150 5.0 2wd) do you know what the problem could be ? Thanks 🙏 in advance
Hi Maysen, I was wondering if you ever heard a faulty torque converter making a noise which sounds like a belt or pulley squeal Under acceleration? It’s more prevalent on the driver side of the motor, I put a stethoscope to the motor and it doesn’t appear to be anything from the engine itself. I’m thinking it could be the torque converter. Any experience with such a thing? Thanks for your help!
My 2013 f150 ecoboost had this shutter. After watching this video I contacted my local transmission shop and told him my symptoms and I said I think I need a torque converter. Long story short they drove it and ended up just changing my transmission fluid and filter. I have around 160k and had never changed it. It immediately fixed the problem. The shop says that about 90% of the time this has fixed the shutter problem. Shout out to Powertrain Specialties in Gonzales Louisiana for being so honest and not selling me a huge job that was unnecessary.
thank you!
Same here, fluid & filter fixed issue for ~$500 on my 07 F150 173k miles.
This only last temporary though right?
Is this relevant to the 10 speeds as well?
Alot of this is the non serviceable yoke check videos I have.a raptor amd it's from creeping to 4 mph replace the tqc and yoke with a greasable one and your good
You nailed it. That’s the noise I was hearing. Mine normally does it around 50-60 mph and going up slight incline with little gas as normal. I was told to use instant shudder fix by lube guard as a diagnostic tool. My 2016 f150 2.7 eco boost with 112,000 miles is what I have. Only started hearing is a couple of days ago.
Wish there were more Honest Mechanics like yourself out here !!
It’s so hard to find a great mechanic that’s not trying to take you for all you’re worth. 🤦🏼♂️
The problem is when you go to the dealer you're usually dealing with the service guy not the mechanic. The service guy is usually the one that will try to slide in your backdoor with no vaselline.
Exactly! As technicians we get a bad wrap When you have lazy ass service writers who want to be mechanics and tell you a bunch of shit that we never told them or they’re too damn lazy to ask questions so the technician can diagnose it properly. Just like going to the doctor, you have to ask the right questions so you can diagnose it quickly and properly. Quit wasting our time Because when we’re on commission and we’re trying to find out the customer complaint and it comes down to the service writers not doing his job and asking and relaying info back to us so we spend more time than needed so that cost gets put to the customer. I hate lazy ass service people because I want to know the customer complaint so I can probably diagnose it and fix it and move on and make my money. The more they jerk us around the more the customer gets charged for wasted time if we can even charge the customer. So many times we have to eat it. So don’t always blame the tech, lazy ass service people make it worse for the customers and the techs!
You guys work on transmissions!! Our local dealer doesn’t even mess with them , they ship them off somewhere, and it takes FOREVER!!! Luv your channel.👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Lubegard shudder fix after a fluid and filter change has worked on every f150 6r80 owner I've spoken to. Including myself. Some report still no issues after 65k miles!
I just used it in mine but it also has a severe miss I can’t figure out 😢
@@surefiremushroomsmicrogreensAny luck so far?
Literally yes. You nailed it. I dealt with it for like 1 year until I figured out what was happening. Crazy
Just bought a 2016 F-150 with 3.5 a month ago with 88,000 miles as a Ford Blue Certified vehicle. Two days later I know there is something wrong with the transmission. Driving down the highway I was getting that rumble strip feel. Of course salesman thinks it probably just the tires out of balance. Long story short after 3 weeks at the dealer, and nearly $4000 later according to dealership, the torque converter was replaced and the shutter is gone. And thankfully I did not have to pay a single dime for it either.
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for your honesty. I am dropping my truck off today to have this work done at 117k miles. Im under warranty until 125k. 2015 F150. Bottom line is, you sir are a good man. I thank you for your honesty and willingness to not scam folks. Good honest mechanics are extremely hard to find brother. Keep it up.
Did your warranty cover the replacement?
@@Patrick-ik1bi nope. I was under the milage limit but missed the warranty date by 3 days by the time I could get into have it fixed. Cost me $3000 to get it done. :(
Thank you!! that's the problem i'm having. Took my 17' Expedition to the dealership. They wanted to charge almost $2900 to replace the transfer case. I didn't think that made sense that the vibration/noise was coming from there. I will call a transmission shop for advice .
Have this in a '17 f150. Best way I can describe it. It's like having 2 12" subs in the backseat hit bass. It's short and intermittent.
Dude I love your videos. Have a 2017 F150 that I bought brand new and have had zero issues with it (other than a small part on the pano roof that broke at 20k miles and replaced under warranty). But about 3 months ago it started doing the shudder EXACTLY as you described. Under light load in 6th at about 65-70 mph, just a little bit of throttle I kept thinking I was literally drifting onto a rumble strip. And thank you so much for giving us all an idea of what it should cost. I'm fairly handy and can do most jobs on the truck myself but transmission work just scares the bejesus out of me. I have no experience messing with trannys and am getting ready to take the truck on a 3 year journey with my family next summer touring the national parks and I'm getting the truck in tip top shape to tow a 30' travel trailer.
thank you for this video.This was exactly what my truck was doing. i had to rebuild the torque converter and some of the transmission at 120k it started at 118k miles on my 2015 f150.
Finally someone who can give me an explanation to what I was feeling on my truck. Super helpful and informative man! Subscribed!! Couldn’t find anything anywhere! Thank you for this, and keep up the good work!
You perfectly explained my situation. Thank you for your information.. Basically everything I needed to know in 11 minutes
Glad to help!
Excellent video. Your description of the rumble strips is exactly what I told the dealer. I am replacing the torque converter in my 2016 F150 with the 5.0 V8 today. Little more than the cost you stated but I trust the dealership. Thank you, this is great. I hope to drive this truck at least 10 years total.
Did that fix it?
My 03 expedition had a shutter. Went to O'Reilly's and paid $10 for friction modifier transmission has worked fine every since
Thank You for the video, just had these symptoms at 134k. Getting Filter and fluid changed tomorrow and hoping for the best.
How'd it go?
Did it work?
@@chrispewkremeIt did work. Almost a year and no issues.
@@kevinmorris9712It did work. Almost a year and no issues.
I have this and it's so infrequent I assumed I ran over gravel I didn't see or rumble strips. Great video!
instant shudder fix fixed mine for over a year, added another tube of it and no mure shudder for over another year now.
Lubegard Shudder stop in 130,000 mile old fluid stopped my '15 2.7 F150 shudder for 10,000 miles. At 140,000 miles the shudder came back. Drained the fluid (brown), changed the filter
(pan and magnets were very clean), and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. Driving fine again, and I think the 5-4 downshift is better than it was. If shudder comes back soon, I'm going to try additives, probably a lubegard product, along with a 3 gallon flush through a cooler line.
Thanks for making this video, and it made me certain that thats what going on in my moms truck. Its a 2017 f150, started around 45,000 and currently had 50,000 miles. The truck isn’t driven hard and she never tows with it
Thays the problem light driving wears the clutch packs and mkre debris ends up in tbe oil.
Harder accelartion to lock up trabs clutches lasts themclonger and better fuel milage obviously bot punching it
my 2016 F160 is at the dealer right now having this replaced. the way you described the issue (rumble strip) is exactly what's been happening. you nailed the symptoms. Cost of job (GULP), just over $2,500. happened at 105,000 miles.
Did it fix it?
@@MrLofswold Yes, have since put 20k miles on it, running like a clock.
Man, thanks that’s exactly what was wrong with my transmission at 140,000 miles they started getting the road strip vibration I really took care of my transmission. I don’t feel bad anymore now that I know it’s a common problem. Thanks bro!!
2016 F150, 5.0 engine, torque converter replaced At 44,000 miles. Currently at dealer for replacement at 55,000 miles. Not a harsh driver or continuous trailer puller. Luckily under warranty, but they don’t get in a hurry with warranty work!
Seen a fair amount of forums with guys swapping fluid and filter and adding lubegard platinum and it fixes the issue. Like 40-100,000 miles and its still going but still a good vid 👍
Your the only one that described my issue spot on! My truck is making the sounds just line its running over the the warning ridges on the side or in the middle of the rd. Ive done all the idiot proof things and couldn't figure it out. I called a AAMco we've come to trust and the woman told me that's most likely what it was. Welp I have no way of testing it out so I needed to do some homework. Sounds like the both of you are right. Ford had my truck for 3 weeks and still couldn't get to it. Ugh! When I got the truck it had so.e issues but nothing I couldn't fix. The biggest thing is it's gonna hurt my bank account. But thank you for posting this video, no matter if it was a couple yrs old it still help me Tremendously.
Keep up the good and honest work!
Much love from the great state of Georgia! 🍑🥜🍉❤❤❤❤
Man this makes me wish ford would come back with e40d or make the torque converter serviceable, I'm glad you described the truck bounce perfectly.
Cheers dude.. that was a great video.. Had my truck at Ford today for a diagnosis.. they couldnt figure it out, but you nailed exactly my symptoms . Thx!
You hit the good points in these videos. I dig the channel thanks 🤘
Another thing that should help is doing a transmission service at 30 000 and 60 000 miles so that way you help get alot of the small metal filings from the transmission breaking in out of there. If they're allowed to acumulate too much. They'll actually start shorting out your shift solenoids intermittently. Thats another potential issue with these transmissions if you don't do those first 2 services. It wouldn't surprise me if it screws up your torque converter too. Just on a side note thats something else I've learned about these particular transmissions.
Thanks!
Thank you for the information, I think you just saved me about $6000
Glad to hear!
Spot on, thanks for sharing. Appreciate the honesty, it’s in short supply these days.
I’m pretty sure just like many others you describe my situation as well. My question is does this condition worsen if you don’t do anything with it? Will the torque converter eventually just give out and fail?
Mine in gradually getting worse. Hasnt failed yet
Alright, as a fellow ford trans tech, I ALWAYS take a fluid sample first and check for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If there’s an indication of possible debris, I quote removing the pan to look for ferrous metal or other material debris. With that sample or evidence, I then either continue on with the normal converter replacement and the heated cooler flush machine procedure OR quote a unit due to the warranty they get with it or overhaul if units are on backorder or too far out if there is excessive metal contamination. Only if the person had been driving for a long amount of time with the issue have I seen true metal contamination due the problem compounding on an underlying concern. 6f35s in the Explorer 2.3s - Remember those? Converters would completely infect the entire transmission leading to an instructed replacement of the main control assembly, converter, and complete overhaul to clean out any contaminants and replace any affected parts. Do not for a minute believe every transmission in need of a converter is immune to this possibility. Always get a fluid sample, quote dropping the pan to be sure if the fluid is burnt or highly contaminated, and always flush the cooler.
Very honest and to the point.
Thank you!
I have a 2009 F150 with 5.4 and 312K miles on the original motor and transmission. Today it started vibrating (similar to a misfire, but with no check engine light) upon light acceleration at highway speeds (around 70mph/2100 RPM). It sounds like this might be exactly what I'm experiencing. It also tends to happen at the bottom of a slight incline in the road.
Mason,
Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80.
I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2.
We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem.
Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens.
Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the last 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change.
After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear.
We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it.
What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home.
Now I’m thinking torque converter too.
Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans?
Where would the fluid have come from?
It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
I forgot to mention. When I pulled codes I got P0715, p0706, p0707, p0712
I’d put a lead frame in it and check it. The vibration may not be related to it sticking in 6th gear. It may need a converter later on but from what your describing it sounds like a lead frame to me. Before you put it in I would check with your dealer because there is actually a recall on some of them extending the warranty out to 150K. Those lead frames are notorious for going out and making one stick in a higher gear. You also should be able to tell when you drop the pan if the converter is going out because it’s gonna be covered in thick clutch material. Not just black, it should be full of debris if the converter has issues. Hope that helps you some.
I also missed that it was a transit. I don’t think those had that recall.
@@FlyingWrenches13 mason, thank you for the reply. I will keep you posted on what I find. I am just getting back in this project after being out of town for a couple weeks.
Phil
Mine does this in 6th too like will go up in RPM a little when cruising at like 40 MPH and I have a exhaust so you can definitely hear it it’s always done this tho and if I give sit gas and go up to 50 mph it will go away
Your videos are awesome, and really helpful for even me as a machanic my self , but I will say we have fixed multiple 6r80 converter shutters over the years with servicing the transmission with Chrysler fluid, its slicker and seems to do the trick and we haven't had any come back with it back to shuddering, we also like to use an anti shudder additive for extra protection, this has also worked for many other models, with the exptoin of wetal or clutch lining in the fluid or pan.
I was thinking about putting Mobil1 HP LV Blue label (GM 8 speed shudder fix) in my '15 F150. I even bought it. I put Lubegard Shudder stop in my 130,000 mile fluid and it stopped the shudder for 10,000 miles. It's back at 140,000 miles, so I did a filter, pan with a drain, and filled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. The fluid was brown, but almost nothing in the pan or on the magnets. If the shudder comes back, I flush about 3 gallons through cooler line, and add lubegard's recommended additive. I think it's called Platinum.
@@GusMahn p
I've got a 2017 F-150 and you exactly described the symptoms it's having right now. I took it to a local dealership and they said the entire transmission needed replaced... and it would cost $8500!!! After watching this I'm thinking it might be a good idea to take it to a different dealership.
I hope I’m not too late. But have you tried the lubeguard shutter fixx? I thought my torque converter went bad but when I put the shudder fix in the tranny, it doesn’t shudder anymore. All I need to do now is change the fluid.
@@Foxbody302 i did actually and ya it helped, got rid of the shudder. Still getting a whirring or slight grinding sound tho, gona take it to a local transmission place on thursday to take a closer look at it. They suggested it may just need the fluid changed as well. The fluid definitely looked like it was in need of changing when i added the shudder fixx. Funny part is i had the aforementioned dealership change the fluid less than 20k miles ago, i guess they just didn't.
Awesome video my guy your videos have improved greatly over time keep up the awesome job
Had a few that have came in for these exact concerns, seems to happen more after the leadframe replacement. The last 3 I’ve done have came after another shop All shuttering, becoming so much more common in all ford vehicles.
For sure. The 6f35s are bad about it too. Seems like they all do it at some point
Ford runs these transmissions too hot and use the torque converter clutch a lot more aggressively than in the past for fuel economy reasons. It's the reason GM has had torque converter issues too (running too hot and locking up in nearly every gear).
I suspected it was the torque converter. You confirmed that. Thanks for your help.
This video is incredibly helpful. Our 2015 Ford Transit with 95,000 miles has a really bad torque converter shudder. They Magic City Ford in Lexington quoted us $7,200 to replace the torque converter. Should I get other estimates or should I do it myself. For less than $5000, I can put a two-post lift in my garage, purchase a transmission jack and the torque converter and do the job myself.
About how heavy is the 6R80 transmission?
So the transit is a whole different animal. If you have a rwd transit the subframe has to come out. The subframe cage nuts are notorious for spinning and if they do you got big problems. They are actually encased in the body, you can’t get to them without cutting a hole in the body. If your very mechanically inclined i would try it but don’t think it’s going to be as easy as a normal truck. I usually charge about 12 hours labor just to pull and put on a transit. If you have a fwd transit with a 6f35 they are a cake walk if you’ve removed fwd transmissions before. The 6r80 isnt any heavier than any of the old aod’s, 700r’s, or 4l60’s.
Thumbs up man. Been having this issue for a couple weeks and thought it was my spark plugs again! Just fyi my truck had 160k when this started
Thank you! Glad to hear you got it figured out.
3.3 & 3.8L Caravans (incl Voyager and Town & Country minivans) were bad about this. What sucked was my dealer (back in the 90’s) would not warranty the work unless trans was gone through. Even though the pan was clean and no coffee grinds in it, no warranty unless overhaul. The 4 speed (42RE, 44RE, and 46RE rear drives were bad at smoking the TCC but you never felt it. Never had a TCC fail in a 47RE as this one was behind the Cummins and was able to take the extra loads in OD. The pcm on the gas engine transmission was programmed to lock the clutch too early and would not unlock for moderate acceleration there by punishing the TCC. The bigger the oversized tires & wheels the sooner the TCC would fail.
Pretty sure this is my problem in my 2016 F150 with 140K miles. I have been chasing a misfire but believe this is it. Hope it is covered under extended warranty.
You are awesome. Videos are great. Thank you.
Useful info thanks mine still has warranty so hopefully it covers
Good video! While I agree most transmissions don’t need to be overhauled, some torque converters fall apart and spread fine metal throughout the trans. At a minimum it should be recommended to disassemble and inspect the main control. The 6f35 is the worst and needs an overhaul once the converter fails and pushes that gray sludge every where. I’ve done way more 6f35s than 6r80s, you should do a video on that one.
Thanks man. I’ve done a ton of 6f35’s too. Always overhaul those things no matter what lol if not they will be back. I’m gonna do one here pretty soon. I have one to tear down here in the next week so maybe I’ll get to record some of that.
Hi!!! I have a escape with this trans 6f35 and now when accelerating like overtake its shutter..could be just the converter? Or i need to repair the trans to?? Here en my country is like expensive and poor of parts😢
@@pablomachucachavez1014
My girlfriend has a Ford Escape. It was shuddering when it shifted. I told her to have the transmission flushed. She did and it fixed the problem. It’s been about nine months and it hasn’t returned. Relatively cheap fix. My F150 on the other hand has the same issue. I had it flushed however it did not fix the problem. I’m beginning to think it’s the torque converter.
My 2016 F-150 did this. Bought it from original owner at 123K. He pulled some with it. Took it to trans shop, they put a tube of shudderfix in it $12. Problem instantly went away. However they said it was a temporary solution. Fluid was pretty cooked. They suggested flushing fluid, replace with new as well as filter. Cant get all the old fliud out as a lot of it is in converter and valve body. So they recommended changing fluid and filter again to dilute the bad fluid. I did this myself after 10K, have put another 5K or so on it. Seems to have cured it. However it does sometimes stall when idling in gear. I dont know if that's separate issue or not.
Thanks for the info appreciate that
Definitely the video I needed! Thank you for the honest and well explained video. Totally nailed the noise. I’ve been saying it feels like rumble strip vibrations lol 😂. My 2015 F-150 has 85000 miles. Off to the shop 🤦♂️
Great information, answered all my questions. Thank you for being honest and STILL working for a dealership!
Ford used to recommend a full flush for the 4R70W when there was shutter. Then maybe dr tranny shudder fix. Wouldn't it be worth trying that first? Sometimes the modifiers get depleted. This is often caused by overheated fluid. Best to add an additional cooler. These trans have thermostats, you can't overcool the fluid.
The problem with the additive is it won’t last.
@@FlyingWrenches13 I was watching another channel and he was showing the thermal valve in the trans for the cooler. Said if trans isn't up to temp fluid just circulates thru cooler lines and not trans. What are your thoughts?
Thank you. Let me start saving
Just Bought a 2019 F-150 10 spd. drove it 180 miles from the seller. I noticed this vibration at cruising speed; 70, 80 mph. I was wondering how to describe this vibration sound to a mechanic until I watched your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'm taking it in for a fluid/filter change tomorrow to see if that fixes it. maybe it will clear it out enough, or do you think I should have him add "Shutter fix" to the new transmission fluid??? Any suggestions ? ?
excellent information helped me out a lot
Thank you!
Great information! 👍 you're my boy blue!
Thank you!!
Thank you very much for this video. God bless..
Thank you!
Man, I was really liking this video till you brought up price lol. Just picked up my 15 expedition from a 3rd party shop that obviously wanted to change the whole trans out, as you said. Thinking about doing a drain and fill and seeing how that works out. Thanks for the great info.
Pretty good explanation but what exactly is it inside the torque converter that causes the shutter? Is it a lockup clutch chattering?
Yeah it is. The torque converter clutch or lockup clutch is what causes the shutter.
Why buy a ford converter when we already know they don’t last I would prefer after market great video thanks
Thanks Brother, I have this problem as we speak also surging, don't know if that's trans or torque converter.
Ughhhhh, mine started doing this about 2 months ago, didn’t become a huge problem until recently. I’m going to see if I can try the temporary fix, just to see if that is actually the cause, if it is, i’ll see if i can get it done locally.
I recently purchased online, sight unseen from a very popular dealership a 2012 Ford F-150-XLT 121k miles, 3.7L with 6R80 trans. It finally arrived to my home two weeks after buying it. When I finally got around to taking it out for a first run, I immediately noticed an annoying rumbling and vibration in the seat. It came with passenger car tires so I took it to tire shop for four brand new truck tires. Still rumbles. Then I replaced the two-piece driveshaft assembly with carrier bearing. Still rumbles. I'm thinking now I have a rearend issue with pinion bearing/race or the ring gear. As truck came with an active Ford recall for speed sensor, I made an appointment with Ford dealer and informed them of the constant rumbling/vibration issues especially at highway speed. I have owned this truck almost two months now and haven't even put on the first 100-miles, dropped truck off at Ford dealer. After third day in shop, they called me and informed me the rearend is okay but they have to replace the transmission which is under a 60-month/60,000 mile warranty. I don't know anything more than that but should have truck back with new tranny some time next week. Except for maybe the torque converter, I don't know what else inside the transmission could've caused these symptoms and issues but FMC is taking care of it.
I bought a 6.2L 11 F150. Has some shudder ONLY when cold, when climbing grades in 5 or 6. Above 180 deg trans temp, I can drive the same mountain roads and no shudder. Shifting is otherwise pretty good. I also noticed some fluid sweating by the rear pan bolts (not the connector gasket). Guess I should be checking the fluid level?
Awesome awesome! Thank you
Got a new subscriber here. The rumble strip description fits perfect. I've been trying to figure it out on my 15' expedition it just started at 157k. I keep throttling around trying to figure out if it's the turbos i just replaced or what but it makes sense since its only when its still in lockup on feather light throttling mainly going up hills. It's worse with cruise on so on the big hills I make it downshift thanks for your video I'll be sure to check out some others. One of my next ventures is replacing the vacuum pump.
I've been having a similar problem on my 2017 Ford Transit 150 cargo 3.7 flex fuel 6 SPD 6r80 with 300,000 mi but it didn't start out noticeable like a vibration. I drive about 250 mi a day 5 days a week. When I first started noticing a difference was after long weeks if I drove 1300 to 1500 mi in a week toward the end of the week and at the end of the day on friday it would feel just a little rough in shifting and a little vibration but I would park it for the weekend and the next week it would be just fine. If I had another busy week toward the end of the week it would feel a little rough. If my week was lighter I didn't notice it at all. This happened for 16,000 mi. As the weeks went on it got slightly a little worse and I mean slightly. It was still very hard to figure out what the problem was. I took it to two or three different transmission shops and the Ford dealership where I normally get service done and without testing, driving or looking at it they are all saying we're going to need to change the transmission just drive it until It's undrivable. Personally I like to be proactive and get something fixed that can be fixed before it fails completely I can't afford to be off the road. This was all during the summer and I assumed it's probably overheating a little. But now that fall is here and we're getting close to winter the nights are cold and when I go to the van in the morning and take off if I don't let it warm up for a few minutes there's a noticeable whirring sound until it gets a warmer. So I'm certain it's the torque converter now especially after listening to this video and others like it. At 300,000 mi is it worth replacing the torque converter? The transmission seems to be shifting just fine especially when I use the button to shift if I use the manual shifting setting. When it's in drive it seems to overheat if I drive more than 200 mi in a day for a week. I know that if I don't do something soon the torque converter can fail and pieces of metal can fall out into the transmission. I don't think we're there yet. Any advice?
Oh and a side question I keep hearing these horror stories of transmission shops having a hard time taking off the crossbar support the frame bolts get stuck and they have to cut it out. Is that your experience as well being a Ford transmission serviceman?
2010 5.4 with 225k with the same issue. Curious if it's detrimental to just leave it alone and accelerate through it? Idk I don't mind dropping the 2k to fix it but is it more of an annoyance or should really address it??
I’ve got a ‘15 F-150 with the 6R80 and around 80k that I’m almost positive this is the case. Took it to the local Ford dealer, they told me the “miss” I am feeling is likely plugs. They said they pulled a couple of them and said they needed changed. Wanted to charge $500 to change plugs. Ha! I replaced all the plugs with new motorcraft plugs myself and it was still happening. I dropped the tranny pan and replaced the filter and topped off the fluid. It was better for a little bit, but is doing it again. It also seems to be way underpowered and it seems like you have to get waaay in to the pedal to get it to downshift going up an incline or pulling a light load. That sound like a converter issue to you? My question is if it is, and I put a new Ford converter in it, are the new ones any better than the ones put in at the factory? I don’t wanna have to do it again! I wish I could find a shop or manufacturer of an aftermarket converter that would bulletproof it so I wouldn’t have to do it again.
Yeah that’s a really good question. I don’t know if they re designed it or not. I don’t think they did. I will say that once I change the converter and flush well I’ve never seen one come back. If it were me I would replace mine with the oem converter. I would trust it more than I would an aftermarket. Hope that helps.
I don’t know if you fixed this issue but try changing your throttle body.
I had a similar issue with my 2013 3.7 3.55 RC-RWD it was very sluggish and
spark plugs didn’t fix it but after throttle body replace it is a lot better not 100%.
Im thinking it could be the lead frame. It struggled to get in gear, one time in winter it reved without going in gear and sometimes it just accelerates without problems. This has been happening since 4x,000 miles and I changed throttle body at 8x,000 miles.
I've got a 2017 F-150 with the 6R-80. When I'm running in the sweet spot, using cruise or foot throttle, any gear above 25mph. The truck studders.
Any info on older fords? Just started driving a 2001 f150 I bought a while ago and it feels like misfiring. PID doesn’t show any misfire counts and there was a misfire code on cylinder 1 that I had fixed. Not sure if misfire is gone but PIDS don’t show any counts. Still feels like it’s missing even at idle. Thanks for video I’ll probably just replace it myself soon since I can do it for cheap myself
Flying Wrenches,
Would you care to go in depth what actually is breaking/tearing up in the torque converter?
ie: pump,, stator, just wondering what is actually
Failing.
Thank you
This videos its great how you explained, have the same concern I thought it was the bearing from the diff but never pass through mi mine it would be the Torque Converter. Does that a recall? For some trucks?
As far as I can tell there is not one. I just had the same issue in addition to transmission sqwak. Seems to be no recall out there.
Unfortunately there isn’t any recalls out for this problem.
Thank you so much for this video, it answered a lot of my questions. However, the issue with my 2012 Ford F-150 was hard shifting, speedometer going to zero, and a 720 Engine Code. Transmission place said TC needs to be replaced, along with a transmission overhaul to clean out all the metal debris. Does this sound about right to you? I'm assuming metal debris was getting in-between the lead frame and solenoids causing the error code and thus the hard shifting. Do you agree?
From your experience, once the torque converter starts to shuddering does it mean the transmission is on its way out too?
No, we replace converters all the time with no trans issues after the fact.
Hello - great vid. Thanks. I am in talks with a mechanic who quoted me $1650 to put in a new torque converter and rebuild the transmission. This seems low, as Ford quoted me $3000. After Ford put in a new rear seal (for $1500), the shuddering/kicking/bucking, etc was still happening. Ford finally let me drive around a technician and the technician said definitively that it's the torque converter. Just wondering where to go to figure this all out. I feel a little suspicious paying $1650 for something that is usually twice as much. Just need some peace of mind, I guess. Thanks, Abe
There is no way that someone is pulling your trans, replacing the TC, and over hauling it for $1650. The Torque converter alone cost close to $1000. All the other clutches, steels, seals, one time use pistons, and fluid would probably cost the remainder. I wouldn’t trust that price at all. Also, not really any need to overhaul. Just flush the trans, new filter, new TC, and new fluid. You should be good to go after that.
I just got the shutter start on my 1998 ford expedition with the E4OD after 230,000 miles. I tried the Lubegard shutter fix, but doesn't seem to work. Its not a consistent problem either, comes up every once in a while. Bought the vehicle for $1800 about 8 years ago and put 100,000+ miles on it. So for me, it's not worth the $2000 to fix it.
Thank you. Went to a trans shop and they were insisting that I need a trans rebuild
I wonder if this is the shudder I’m feeling. I feel the shudder in the front end and it happens mostly when I accelerate or have it in cruise and push the acceleration button on the steering wheel. I’ll call my ford dealer and ask what they think. Out of curiosity would a possibly worn CV axle rod in a 2012 F-150 Ecoboost give a shudder? I have 250,000 miles on it
Great video, but one key thing when you service your transmission do not drain the fluid and replace it with brand new fluid! You will for sure after doing that need a whole transmission overhaul! What you want to do is drain the old fluid, filter it and then put it back in the transmission with a new transmission filter. Once the old filtered fluid is back in the transmission then you add new fluid as needed to meet your proper fluid levels!
2015 expedition. Used shutter fix 3 months ago and the shudder went away. Had the trans serviced along with an oil change last Friday(fluid and filter) and now I have a whining noise. I took a video of the noise, not sure how I can share it with you. Local Ford dealers are scheduling over a month out and trying to avoid any more damage by driving it. Looking for a 2nd opinion.
Mdunsford90@gmail.com or send it on Facebook. Link in description
do you recommend the fluid flush on these 6r80s? or is the drain and fill method plenty?
Hi awesome video just found ur channel.I just bought a 01 f150 lariat 5.4 I’m new to ford but when I put it in reverse I hear a like pop and really at any speed when I let of the accelerator there’s a bad vibration till I’m steady bk on the gas.have u ever seen this ?Im new to ford but the truck was single owner it shifts really smooth as well
I'm starting to get these same symptoms on my 2011 F150 4x4 lariat with 287,000 miles. I change the fluid in mine every 2 years no matter the mileage. Transmission shifts fine and no leaks, just the skip/ shutter. Would you replace just the torque Converter/filter trans oil or rebuild?
I have a question regarding this issue. I don’t have torque shudder but I was wondering if you have experience using shift kits/drop in valves? I have seen them say they help/reduce torque converter issues. I was thinking of adding one when I change my fluid and filter.
Just subd. Good information on that converter. My owners manual says to begin transmission fluid changes at 150k. Doesn’t sound right to me. Its a 16 f-150.
That is actually where Ford recommends changing transmission fluid on most of there vehicles now. It wouldn’t hurt to start at 100k though if you wanted too.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Thank you, sir.
Very informative video! My 10R80 on a 2017 has just started shuttering at low speed (15 mph) under light acceleration after being in an overdrive gear above 55mph. Had been having clunking issues once tranny is warm, which the dealer didnt fix (clunk when tapping on gas and clunk when breaking hard, not the slip yoke). They did a pcm relflash and the shuttering started. Any ideas?
They already freaked the driveshaft slip yoke? That’s usually what causes the clunk noise.
@@FlyingWrenches13 they greased it and the clunk is still there. My first thought was excessive backlash in the rear diff, bad bearing, or loose transmission mount. But since it get worse after its at operating temperature, and now have developed a stutter on occasion, I’m almost thinking thinking inside the trans or torque converter.
Yeah that is possible. Maybe a damaged one way or planetary set. Noises like that can be really hard to find. By the way “freaked” was supposed to be greased in that last reply lol
@@FlyingWrenches13 taking it in tomorrow. Thinking it has to be the torque converter or something in the transmission. Noticed yesterday when it was shuttering that it went always when it up shifted. Today while it was shuttering I put it into neutral and it immediately stopped and was smooth.
Sounds like converter could be your problem. Hope they get it fixed.
I have a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost that started doing this when driving cross country.
Took it in when we go to our destination and the Shop said it was torque converter shudder, that they had found I was low on trans fluid and that what fluid was in there was "black as engine oil".
They serviced the transmission, drained some of the burnt fluid and added in new fluid until full. Seemed to be much better for a week after that but then started shuddering again once we hooked the trailer back up to it and started on our way home.
It only shudderes going up a hill while pulling a trailer though. Once you unhook the trailer it seems to work normally.
Is this just the beginning stages of shudder? Or something different?
It for sure sounds like torque converter shutter. I’ve never seen one that only does it when hooked to a trailer though. If it is indeed the converter it should do it under a light acceleration on a incline.
I am having this issue as well only when towing. Did you figure out what it ultimately was yet? Mine only does it after 50mph and above. Slightly better at 60-65 but after that forget it.
Quick question: Is a slight rise in engine RPM during this shudder indicative of it happening in/being the torque converter? This is what I've noticed on my 2010 F150's 6R80.
Is it something that has to be replaced quick mason? As in when it starts shuddering should you get it replaced immediately? Or is it just an annoying noise
Great video nailed it im having this happen while in 5th under light throttle byt not enough for to downshift under load i guess you can say ... im at 215k. Miles do you think it would be ok to replace TC along with with filter and fluid or will this cause more harm then good ?
Hello, awesome channel. My 2018 F-150 5.0 is making a ratcheting noise when you let off the gas between 1200-1800 RPMs, way more noticeable when the engine is cold. The dealer where I’m at seems to be confused, they’re replacing the torque converter, I don’t think that’s a good fix. I’ve seen several other post about this issue with no solution, any ideas? Thank you
My friend has a 10' F150 with this issue. Truck has 250k on it and transmission shifts perfectly. Would you recommend a rebuild or just a tc replacement? Keeping truck most likely.
I had my torque converter replaced at a Ford dealer less than 2000 miles ago, and it is doing the same thing again, what might be the issues now?
Sent you the link to a video that shows exactly what’s going on with my truck (2017 f150 5.0 2wd) do you know what the problem could be ? Thanks 🙏 in advance
Hi Maysen, I was wondering if you ever heard a faulty torque converter making a noise which sounds like a belt or pulley squeal Under acceleration?
It’s more prevalent on the driver side of the motor, I put a stethoscope to the motor and it doesn’t appear to be anything from the engine itself. I’m thinking it could be the torque converter. Any experience with such a thing? Thanks for your help!
2011 Ford F-150 6R80 transmission needs a lead frame. I was wondering if I do an updated valve body pa68301. do I need to flash the pcm computer?
Yeah you will need to update the solenoid ID.