Reloading 50 Feet 16mm Magazine Cartridge Double Perf Film / Step by Step Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- As promised, I'm going to open a 16mm 50' magazine cartridge and re-load it with some test film. Remember, this whole process needs to be done in total darkness.
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#16mmMagazineReloading #16mmCartridgeTutorial #Shoot16mmFilm #Learn16mm #Filmmaking #RealFilm #FilmIsNotDead #ShootFilm #Analogue #Analog #50FeetIsBetterThanNoFeet
That clip is very important! Kodak found when testing before release to public, because when they used those mags in WW2 war plane gun cameras , the G forces put on the film mag caused jamming problems. as well it keeps the Perf teeth on the upper part of the film drive, from slipping a byte and causing a tear in the upper film perf causing a jam,, so yeah use the clip Always
That's ALMOST Twin Peaks T-shirt : D
I recently ordered a "Bell & Howell Filmo Auto Master 16mm" camera from Etsy, that has a turret, but only one lens attached, so good to start off, especially because it takes 16mm cartridges and they suggested FPP's bulk-loading service, or to learn it on RUclips and I had to come here to seek help, as FPP doesn't ship to my country and also they don't give detailed answers (probably due to being busy or overloaded with questions from people). Speaking of Twin Peaks, their answers are like David Lynch responding in a couple of words that leaves you sometimes even more confused. I don't blame them, as Ive ordered from them (and will still do) using a local service, but I'd want to learn how to order film and load it in the mag, as the camera comes with an expired, sealed Kodachrome 50' daylight cartridge ("Daylight type safety color film", no ISO info) I may not even use, but it would have the mag I'll need for re-spooling.
So, I want to learn how to spool at home, because ordering a re-spooling through our local service doing it for me, would cost me double.
Thanks
I think that Kodachrome magazine would be great for practice. Keep in mind that the film inside will be extremely curled from being that way for so many years. No biggie for practicing. When you carefully remove the top cover of the magazine, take a quick photo of the layout inside. That will be a good reference forever. Make sure you remove the 2 little spindles of the left side before trying to remove the film or you might rip the perfs. Good luck!!
@@Filmboy24 Thanks 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Very informative, thanks. Yet another rabbit hole for me to enter in a dark room.
I assume the Kodak standard 8 magazines load in the same manner ?
Thanks, Cecil!!
Yes, this film thing seems to literally go on forever...I guess that's a good thing, right?
Honestly, I've never opened a regular 8 magazine, but I have a couple of old Kodachrome ones for just that experiment. I think they load a little different though, as the film is exposed on the long edge of the magazine. I can't imagine it being any more difficult, but this is film after all, so... :)
Thanks for the video! I was curious if I can load these cartridges by myself, but now 100% convinced to just to get a pre loaded one from FPP 😅
😅 They are definitely not for the faint of heart!
Thanks Miguel..nice video
Thanks, Pop!
Awesome video. Very interesting! I can not imagine doing that in the dark! Just wondering if you thought of making a staging area/holder for all the parts.... where you can place the things like the clip and spool prior to turning off the light so that if you bumped them on a table they would not roll off? Congrats on the 500+ subscribers!
Thanks so much!!
Yes, it can be quite daunting if you lose a piece in the dark, so I simply use a small plastic container that's taped to my work surface. Once you drop a couple of things, you learn quick! :)
Wow, that is a real Rube Goldberg machine. I think these magazine cameras are a great and inexpensive way to get into shooting 16mm film. I just think about the emulsion side that rubs all along the inside of the cartridge. Does the inner wall have some kind of rails or raised edges to prevent the film from getting all scratched?
Haha, no doubt they're a tad over-engineered.
They do have a pretty smooth surface on the area preceding the gate and everywhere else does have "rails" which are essentially just the outer case indented all the way around at the top and bottom. I guess that would do the trick though.
@@Filmboy24 Thanks for the reply. Makes sense. I guess loading these cartridges in the dark is perfect for testing one's patience, of which we film buffs have tons. 😎
Maybe I missed it, but how do you measure 50’ of film off of a 100’ roll while winding and reloading these cartridges in the dark?
I will admit, it's tricky. I currently use a board template kind of thingy but I'm working on a much easier solution.
Hi Filmboy, I like the 8/16/33 mm look. But is there cheap alternative? Getting the footage developed and digitized is hardly affordable if you want to shoot a full length analog film (and dont want to use pseudo-analog digital filter.)
That's a great question and I must say, if I were going for the closest analog-ish, "film look" I could find, without shooting film, I'd pick up another Panasonic DVX100 Mini-DV camera. I had one several years ago and I wish I still had it. I shot several short films on it and I love the 24P footage it produced.
@@Filmboy24 wow, i checked some DVX100 footage and this really looks analog. I wondering, because normally minidv looks a lot more digital (what i dont like). This one looks more like a good vhs/hi8 digitization. But its pretty expensive 😞 Is there anything comparable and cheaper?
@@Prismit-m7v I think it will be tricky to get that "film like" look with anything for much cheaper than the $250-$500 range. The good thing is, once you have the camera, the tapes are pretty inexpensive and they'll give you an hour of footage :)
You must use 2R = double perf film. I never open a magazine unless it's in a pyrex brownie dish, so parts don't get lost. One nuisance you don't show is cutting 50-52 foot films off a bigger roll to load in the magazine. They sell in 100 or 400 foot except spare leftover reels. It's better to have a pile of magazines than have to refill them when you remove exposed film. Too much fuss to do all at once in a duffle bag or darkroom. Clean magazines in the light.
Suggestion: If you've tried 50 times to load 120 into a Paterson reel and failed, you might not want to try this lol
😂😂 C'mon Dale, if I can do it, anyone can!!
@@Filmboy24 you got a point there
@@dalehammond1749 🤣🤣
I don’t think I’d be able to do this in the full dark, are you able to do this in a dark room/red room(the rooms with red light, in case I’m using the wrong term)
Hey Ranger, most films nowadays are panchromatic, which means they are sensitive to red light. If you're using an orthochromatic film, you could get away with a darkroom safe red light. One thing that a subscriber actually tried (and succeeded) was using night vision goggles.
Great video Mike! I was just wondering how many FPS the cartridge cameras shoot at, and how long a shooting time does that work out to for 50'?
Thanks, Ben!!
A good rule of thumb is that 50' of 16mm runs for roughly half the time of 50' of super 8.
My Cine-Kodak Royal will shoot at 16 FPS (2 minutes & 5 seconds), 24 FPS (1 minute & 24 seconds) and 64 FPS (30 seconds). My Revere 16 Magazine will go anywhere between 12-48 FPS. They both also do single frame.
This really is a great way to break into 16mm film!
I was wondering do you know of any places that do 16 mm magazine reloading services ? I try to contact the Retrocine place but they seems to not respond.
I've looked at that RetroCine page over the years and nothing ever seemed to change. I think it was just a guy trying to start a little business that never really panned out.
You can order complete bundles (loaded cartridge, processing and scanning) from the FPP (Film Photography Project). Here's a link to that particular product:
filmphotographystore.com/products/16mm-film-magazine-16-bundle-film-develop-scan
Awesome. Was so waiting for this video.! Have you had the chance to look at this method of loading where they by pass the sprocket with single perf? I’m curious of how reliable this is. I found a photo online but I can’t post a link in the comments
Thanks Alex!!
I have not, but you have me very intrigued now. I wonder what would drive the film if it's not hitting the sprockets. Maybe just by the camera engaging and advancing the perfs near the gate?
I think I found the photo you are (or may be) referring to, does it look like it's out of an old newspaper or magazine?
Ha yes! That’s the old photo. I have also come across a mention of this method and a photo of this somewhere else but can’t remember where.
Maybe with the Kodak camera can you run the camera with the door open and have the cover of the magazine off to see how well the film transports...
@@alexinnewwest1860 I was reading up on that method of threading and some people seem to have great luck with it and others, not so much. I know you have to invert the pressure plate, but not sure what other mods there are. Definitely worth exploring, that's for sure.
Unfortunately, the Kodak Royal won't run without the door closed. You also can't completely seat the magazine until the door is completely closed. I'd probably just run a few feet and open the magazine back up, see what it does.
Ah to bad. Same with the BH. It just has a small door at the back.
I wonder if there is a camera out there, that this can be done with
@@alexinnewwest1860, not sure, I think the problem is that the "Run" switch on most of these cameras engages the sliding pin that opens and closes the magazine's "gate". Usually to engage it, everything has to be locked down. Let me know if you ever run across one.
I just got a cartridge off Ebay... How do you tell if itis exposed or not? There is a counter and it says Zero. Does that mean that Zero has been exposed or Zero is remaining?
The number inside the little green window is how much footage is left. If you see a “0” then it’s fully exposed.
@@Filmboy24 Thank you!