You my friend are an automotive angel. I've been researching my hemi tick and was certain it was the lifter issue I've been seeing everywhere. BUT after seeing your video I popped my wheel off and quickly identified broken bolts and a floppy heat shield. Just fixed it with a new gasket, o ring and bolts. TRUCK NOW sounds like the day I drove it off the lot. I just finished and immediately wanted to thank you !!!!!
Thank you one hundred times! I heard the tick and have been freaking out with all the horror stories of lifters. I checked the manifold shroud, and low and behold, two bolts were broken. Thanks again, you rock!
Two things. The exhaust bolts from the factory often have thread lock on them. It is designed to hold fast when cold. If you heat up the remaining stud first you'll have more luck backing it out. 2ndly, for studs that are sheared off at the block you can buy a template kit online that bolts onto the head and you use it as a drilling guide, and can also be used to re-tap the threads. I highly recommend this for any Hemi owner. There are several on the market Lisle is one. As a preventative measure, replace the two rear most bolts every two years and "Do not over torque".
That's one of the side benefits of the method I use, since the welding process heats the remainder of the stud and breaks that thread lock residue free. Definitely if you're not able to access a welder those kits to drill the studs out are very helpful, trying to do it freehand is not advised 😄. Appreciate the tips you've offered! 👍
@@ReignitedAutoI’m getting ready to do this on my 2015. While I’m in there I’m doing struts and control arms. I figured it would be a good idea while it’s apart. 82k on the truck. I bought new manifolds but I’ll check the old ones first to see if they can be reused. You stated you’ve used the old ones on reinstall. Any trouble with that because they are warped? Thanks for the videos and the those latex gloves are the best.
@@ReignitedAutohello!! I recently bought a 2013 Ram 1500. The check engine light is on because of a "CO2 leak" that could be the possible reason that the engine shuts off when I use the remote starter. Please, can you advise me if this(video) could be the problem for the CO2 leak?? If not, do you have an idea what could be the problem and how to fix?? (Excuse me my english is not perfect. I hope you understand what I said) Thank you!!
@@melaniecharbonneau2646 I'm going to guess that the code is due to a vacuum leak, that's the only thing I can think of that corresponds to a c02 leak. Do you have the exact code number? If it is a vacuum leak then broken exhaust bolts are not the problem. There is likely a leak somewhere after the throttle body that will need to be found. I would start by looking for a disconnected hose from the intake manifold.
Just got a 2012 Ram 1500 that had a ticking sound but after watching your video, I found out that the real issue was an exhaust leak. Just like you said, passenger side, rear bolt had sheered off and the heat shield was loose. Thank you for posting the video!!
I've been telling people for years that the lifter issue isn't as common as they think! But you are correct in the fact that the notoriety of the lifter issue is so inflated everyone thinks their Ram will ultimately have this issue. I have 140k on my Ram and I have a passenger side broken exhaust bolt and need to fix it but my lifters are doing just fine.
I realize I am 3yrs late watching this video. Excellent documenting and explaination of this maintenance performed. Straight and to the point without overthinking, stupid background music and usless talk as most do and people just get cOrNfUzEd. Did both sides of mine a few weeks ago. Easy tasks to perform even when you need center-punch, drill in and easy-out the sub-surface broken bolts. You had some tips I wished I knew before I did mine. Again, Super Job bringing light to people who think they need to take it to the Dodge dealership and find out it's a $1300 repair when they can do it for about $150. Have a great Navy Day!
You know, the Hemi does make it easy because once the bolt starts coming out they spin out with no issue. I've done LS engines before, and those bolts will fight you for every 1/4 turn! And forget about iron heads!
I done so many manifold gaskets on these trucks and wound up thinking about it a lot. My best estimate is the weight of the exhaust system stresses the rear of the manifold causing the breakage. I’ve seriously contemplated adding a hanger at the bell housing to take stress off the manifolds.
I have heard of another possible reason for the problem. It was that too hard of acceleration on a cold motor is a possible reason since the head is aluminum and the manifold is cast iron. The different metals heat up at a different rate and therefore expand at a different rate. Hard acceleration blasts a lot more heat on the cold metal. It sounds very possible to me. I had the problem with my 09 Ram which came with a lifetime drivetrain warranty so it didn't cost me anything to get fixed. Since then I always take it easy on the gas until I see the temp gauge getting close to normal operating temp as a precaution.
It's from the expansion and contraction of the cast vs the bolt. Over time the bolt hardness changes and exhaust is corrosive ....it weakens the bolt and it snaps. Happens on the LS engine all the time. I've found volvo exhaust bolts rarely do this because of the stainless boron alloy , they are also quite a stretchy bolt . It might just come down to cheap metal .
I've seen other RUclips videos that show the manifold warps. I'm sure all of your diagnosis are good. I've see that shorty headers are the only permanent fix. Reusing the manifold will result in the same failure down the road.
Not to knock the value of this video but anyone who has the ability to tear down an engine to change the lifters will know enough to diagnose the issue first...
An old trick before you break them, says this old machinist. At the first sign of any resistance take a drift and give the bolt a good sharp rap.....'shock' them loose. Seems to be most effective with aluminum castings in my experience....good luck guys....!
I love this video. It really just reminds me how much of a pain this truck is. 2014 Ram 1500. Lifter stuck with valve open, chipped off a chunk of piston. it went through the exhaust valve. Then when I tore it all down, I discovered that both manifolds had broken studs.
WOW! What a relief!!!! I have been freaking out and stressing over this "hemi tick". I Just found my broken exhaust bolts!! This is definitely the best feeling I have ever gotten from a RUclips video!! Thank you!!
I have the same problem with the drivers side now, I just had the passenger side fixed 2 yrs ago. It cost me 900 dollars, now the drivers side is doing it and no one wants to tackle it. My truck is in good shape with lifted kit, and tires, but a good mechanic is a blessing.
My 2916 Ram 1500 passenger side top back studded bolt broke flush just out of warranty. Did the re and re in my home garage. Be patient. Drilled and EZout with high quality left hand drill bits. I did my research and spoke to FCA. FYI FCA makes two types of replacement bolts. The cheaper set (about $1 per bolt) are the originals. The ones with a white paint dot on the heatsheild stud tip are the ones FCA recommemds to dealers to repair the issue for the back bolts. The first two dealerships parts people I spoke with were not aware of the improved bolts. The third had a tech that knew what they were for and used them. This was not easy to find out. I was told they are a different metal composition and are $5 each. Worked well. Thanks.
You are absolutely correct on this, we have the upgraded bolts available at the dealer where I worked at. Due to cost, almost nobody opted to pay for them, which is funny because you're right there, might as well upgrade now, but people can't justify it for some reason. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@craigcwillard I don't have the part numbers myself, but if you talk to the parts dept at the dealer and ask for the pricing on the upgraded hardware they'll know exactly what you mean. 👍
@@craigcwillard The part number for the studded heat shield manifold bolts (revised upgraded) is 06509863AA. They are currently about $7-8 US each. They have a white paint dot on the stud tip. Be aware that scammers are selling them much cheaper with the dot painted on the cheaper bolts. Suggest you buy from a known reputable source. I bought mine from a dealership.
Man I am so thankful for you putting this knowledge out there. You nailed my issue spot on 1000000% thought I had the lifter tick issue, went outside after watching this video and found my heat shield on passenger side back of the motor was loose. 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 right at 100k miles.
Finally a tech that knows using a welder is the easiest way to extract a broken bolt starting at 9:21. I have not used a "bolt extractor" in over 30 years except for removing die cast GM heater hose quick connectors from GM intake manifolds. I cannot begin to tell you how many times some one has broken off an extractor and offset drilled a hole trying to get a bolt out then they bring it to me. I have even used a welder to extract a bolt that was broken off 1 inch below the surface.
My theory on why these break. - 1) The heat shield covers the front three cylinders and the back of the manifold hangs out a good bit. 2) While driving on rainy wet roads when you hit a deeper puddle a lot of water splashes and it hits that exposed portion of the manifold, this quickly cools and warps the manifold eventually to the point of breaking the studs. 3) The right side more commonly breaks because there are more deep puddles along the curb. 4) The studs could have been sized larger but the corporate bean counters not going to make that happen now. A cheap fix would be to enlarge the heat or should I say rain shield. btw I put new manifolds on my Ram 1500 because when I laid the old ones on a table, the front three exhaust ports laid flat and the rear most was better than an 1/8 inch in the air. And I mean the rust pattern matches the warping and makes it pretty obvious this is the problem. smdh
I think this could happen, sure. However it far more likely that for whatever reason that side for the motor or both are running lean. I.e. the exhaust gas temp is super hot b_c the air fuel mix is off, prob from a fuel pump having low pressure or a vacuum leak on the intake will cause a lean condition as well. Also i have seen plenty of bent valves on these things which can also cause a lean condition. Any of these or a combination of two or more will cause the exhaust gas temp to sore. The manifold gets to hot and expands the stainless bolts have no give so they just shear off. If u are lucky they dont break of flush. But they always break off flush tho.)
I just want to say this just to put it out in the word. But from years of racing motocross. I figured out that if you cut the bolt with a Dremel you can get a flat head or even a Phillips, and a T20-T25 star is strongest if you want to get fancy. Put an impact on it and zip it out.
Had this on both sides of my 09 ram 1500. Dealer took care of it under my lifetime powertrain warranty thankfully. Now i check them everytime i do an oil change just to make sure they didn’t break again. They broke somewhere around 85,000 miles
Keep that lifetime warranty going! Chrysler was in a bad spot when they offered that lifetime powertrain warranty, and it's been a lifesaver for a lot of people. Make sure you keep it up to date!
@@ReignitedAuto does they often broke on the 5.7? Ive got a Challenger and some new headers i wanted to mount next month. But i dont realy warnt to Deal with broken studs
Nice tip on welding just the stud to get it out! This reminds me I need to recheck the torque on my truck manifolds as I noticed some soot between them and the heads.....not something I’m looking forward to, and yes I’m being lazy.
I've been watching your videos for the 1st time. Very knowledgeable and your logical thing is dead on. This issue with rear exhaust studs breaking is from lack of flow in the exhaust manifold. The rear cylinders are closest to the collector so heat up the most and thus break 1st. A better manifold flow would have improved the issue. It is an issue with all v8s over time.
Man.... every time I have an issue your videos come up on my feed with a fix... you my good sir are my Mopar saint, you should have your own day for showing everyone how easy difficult issues can be, of course I subscribed and have every alert for every video you make, I even gave myself some free time today to watch that custom truck you built with the 6.4. Can you make a video about the " service all wheel drive" that comes on my 2016 charger police intermittently?
Been there down that on the Ram 2500. I had the exact same problem and because of the angle of the head to the frame it could not be drilled. That's when I learned about welding like you did. I do check them for warpage though. If they have been running for a while with a broken stud they can get pretty warped. Unlike dealerships all my customers are repeat for life. So I know the vehicle as opposed to a dealership where the tech thinks its fixed and never sees the vehicle again. Another great video
Appreciate you watching Wayne, interestingly, we used to replace all the exhaust manifolds that had broken bolts, then Chrysler stopped paying for them, they would only pay to replace the actual bolt that broke, and a new gasket. 🙄 Classis Chrysler I guess...
@@ReignitedAuto That's why I love watching guys like you who specialized on a certain brand. I worked on 18 wheelers for a long time and transitioned into auto as a missionary outreach for single moms. Folks like you really help us guys who work on everything under the sun. It always improves my diagnosing skills. Thank you brother.
I think my 2016 has this; it’s very noticeable when first started cold, and even when it’s been driven for a while and warmed but parked for a little while, like 30-45 min, I can hear it briefly again. When it’s cold, it is there for longer than 30 seconds; prob 2-3 minutes.
Thanks for being out there for us dodge people I have learned a lot from your videos I already have a mechanical background not licensed by any means I have been working on all my owe vehicle's for years I'm doing a rebuild on my 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7 I had a p0303 code and p02308 so I started digging into the problem looking at spark plugs first then coils I test each one all were working I even replaced 4 of them just to be sure but problem still was there so next step was to remove the valve cover to check valve spring's I did this with the engine off first and checked for broken spring's everything seemed normal nothing broken then I started the engine to see if there was any difference between the other valve spring's and of course there really wasn't so next step is I started removing the engine to see if I had a bad cam and the mds lifers again not really some wear on the cam and few of the lifters but nothing really terrible probably could get another 100000 km out of them maybe now my heads are off the block was there corrosion on the Pistons yes there was but again nothing terrible easy to clean up and as for the valves intake and exhaust was there corrosion on that to yes but again nothing terrible again easy to clean up so then I started digging into the Pistons themselves remove them from the block then I noticed some scoring on the sides of four of the Pistons out of 8 piston so now so now I am replacing everything including except for the crank it's in great shape all sensors I just glad I know how to do this myself I'll have a brand new motor when I'm done I even Honed out the cylinder walls I also did have broken studs on my exhaust manifold two of them on the passenger side I believe so again thank you for all your great videos I definitely do appreciate it
@@ReignitedAuto yup I'm really pissed about this it all started back in 2013 and of course I complained to dodge Canada I really got no where with them one of the people I had spoken to even told me he didn't see it as a safety issue I completely disagreed with this person obviously it started with the passenger side lowbeam not working so I did what I always do dig into it by checking the wiring harness no luck there no as of today's date passenger side lowbeam is still not working and to add to all of that my daytime running light on the driver's side quit working a while back and my high beam light on the driver's side don't work either it's not the bulbs I checked and it's not the plugs replaced the passenger side plus dodge only part and as for my engine parts I ordered most of them from rock auto great prices
I just did six broken bolts altogether.(2012, 170k kms) One on each side was broke...2 on each side broke on removal...I'm in the rust belt in Ontario...more like calcium sprayed dirt roads here. I ended up buying a Lisle template and drilled for extractor...one helicoil was needed...good times...and still ticking away lol
Oof! I grew up on the coast with rust, I promised myself I'd never live where it rusts again! Where I live now you can leave bare steel outside for months with no issue. I feel for you guys deep in the rust!
Great info. I do work at a dealership. I usually do the same methods you use. Except on this one. I would rather drill and extract it. Angle drill does well here. Majority of the time I spend no more than 5 to 10 mins drilling and extracting.
I did the weld nib on trick but didn't put a rag into the exhaust pipe. So we had a major exhaust leak after putting it all back together. what happened is a couple very small spatters landed into the exhaust and it would not tighten together properly. Very thankful to the muffler shop I called and he told me that can happen.
You need to be checking the manifold for warpage as that is the main cause. I have seen as much as .060 in. in some, mostly caused by heavy towing. It will stop come backs and serve your customers well!
On customer pay vehicles I generally do check for excessive warpage. Chrysler stopped paying for new manifolds when doing this job under warranty unfortunately. 👍
Hello, thank you so much for all the excellent information Mr. Reignited! I have watched all you Hemi videos and want to give my 2015 5.7 it's best chance for a healthy long life. Currently 45k miles and no problems at all. I do regular oil changes with good oil, no excessive idling, etc. I see all the discussion about repairing broken bolts, but no talk about replacing the bolts before they break. Wouldn't it be a very good idea to replace them all every 30-40k miles, and install the factory upgraded bolts (at least on the rear exhaust ports) ??? And coat with anit-seize to keep head threads in good condition. It seems like that would be MUCH easier than trying to dig a broken bolt out of the head at some point. Why don't people change the bolts before they break, or am I missing something? Thanks so much for your excellent videos and sharing your wealth of information with all of humanity! 🙂
Basically it comes down to the fact that it's a lot of work for a preventative measure to many people. I definitely recommend upgrading to the stainless bolts at the front and rear of the manifolds, helps quite a bit! Appreciate you watching 👍
Yup. Saw this MANY times. Customers complain it sounded like an old pockup on start, and after it got to N.O.T it was quiet. Ive never had it on mine with 200k, but i replaced headers at 100, and doing it again at 200🤣
Hmmm. Broken exhaust manifold bolts! Wow! I love your method of getting that stud out of the head that broke flush. Welding that blob on the end and working it out with vicegrips was GENIUS!
My rear stud was impossible to remove via drilling and welding a nut, also broke a second one... was on a time limit so I put copper permatex on and added headers, replaced old bolts and decided to kick the can down the road to fix later if it became an issue...5 years later zero leak, zero tick, copper permatex for the win! LOL
Another tip: if you dont want to deal with it again in a short period of time use stainless steel bolts. I did it on my truck 4 years ago and the bolts still look like the first day i put them on. The bolts are a little more spensive than a regular one but believe me is worth it.
@@tonyvtech25 Just my experience with stainless bolts. I used to rebuild EMS vehicles, firetrucks and ambulances.... Stainless hardware was always an issue. Best to go with grade 8 bolts.
So glad I found your channel! I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee summit 5.7 with 45k miles. And it’s constantly in the shop! Glad I found your channel! Keep em coming! 🙏🏼💯💯
Great channel you have and I hope you grow fast. Great content and very clear in your teaching. I bought my 2016 ram 5.7 in Oct and took it back to get the bolts fixed, along with other issues they found. Luckily it was all covered by warranty.
God damn. I just spent 3 weeks ordering parts and tearing into my hemi. Got to the timing chain and oil pump, dropped the pan and couldn't find anything wrong. No glitter... nothing. New water pump, fan clutch, alternator etc. Because it sounded like a horrible rod knock I never checked the obvious hemi problem. I just went out and looked at me heat shield, and was able to take a bolt or by hand. All this time and unnecessary money and it's just a gasket and handful of bolts. Well I know I can tear the front end and valve covers off in less than a couple hours now hahaha
Happen to me on an LS I Threw all factory bolts out and in with marine grade 304 stainless steel bolts, coate threads with high temp cooper anti-seize compound
For sure the LS has this same reputation. Although the LS bolts are generally much harder to extract for some reason. That's been my experience anyway. Good call on the anti-seize 👍
No question about it. I actually grew up on the Oregon coast with tons of rust, swore I'd never do that again. Moved to central Oregon, no rust at all, no humidity. Now down here in Texas, and it was a prerequisite that I move somewhere where rust is not a factor LOL.
Great video! Keep in mind that the studs on the manifold cover are not the only ones that break, so even if it it not loose you could still have a broken bolt. At 190,000 miles I removed my manifolds to replace with long tube headers. On my left side I had the second from the bottom front bolt break. Thankfully after 12 attempts to weld on a nut to the sheared stud, I got it out. Do not put back on the headers unless you have all the studs in place as it will leak if you do this.
I like your method of building weld up over welding a nut to the broken stud. Since my 2014 Ram 1500 w 82k miles started ticking two weeks ago, I'm sure I'll try your method first. I think I'll bite the bullet for the better hardware package as I don't want to do the job again down the road. Thanks!
ive owned 3 ram 1500 trucks. 1998, 2003 and 2006 and I've never had ANY of the hemi ticks. not a single one. now I know the 1998 ram 1500 I had did not have the hemi, but it still didn't have any of the other tick issues. also I've owned a 2006 300C and a 2009 Charger RT. also with those 2, I've never had ANY of the hemi ticks.
Nice video, excellent explanation with how it sounds before and after. I had to take my 1500 to the dealer for a head gasket job, because I felt the job would be a bit overwhelming especially without a lift at home. The dealer is now telling me I might have a camshaft issue as well. I originally took it in for white smoke coming from the exhaust, which I know it was a head gasket issue. I think they are trying to blow some smoke on top of the white smoke 🤣🤣🤣🤥
Great explanations.... I have a 2015 1500 with 5.7.….I had the exhaust leak....drivers side....after repairing that....cylinder 5 ticking......cam and lifter needed replaced.....in process of assembly now....seems like they are getting more and more failures.....my friend has a 2012 1500.....both leaking and bad cam...
With more mileage and time we are bound to see more failures, things wear out. You can see this same trend with Hondas and Toyotas as well. All engines break down at some point.
Glad you made it clear for these dummies in the lx forums. All of them swear the lifter issues are inevitable. They all claim it will happen sooner or later smh
Just dont know, my 2010 Charger RT with 130K is quiet as a mouse, my 2014 Challenger RT has had lifter issues since I got it at 28000 miles. Dealer replaced passenger bank of lifters and you can still hear it if the radio is off. Its loud and the valvetrain ticks like mad. The injectors on that car are also VERY loud. I gave up fighting Dodge, Ill throw in a Comp Cam and updated lifters when it finally does its thing. I dont see it as inevitable though I know a LOT of people with Hemis and my Challenger has the worst noise out of dozens I've seen.
Excellent video! After changing mine 3 times inside of 75k miles, I think I have found the root cause of this. I believe that the reason that it is usually only the back 2 bolts is because of the extreme heat radiating up from the catalytic converters that are only inches away. This would explain why people that install shorty headers never seem to have the issue again. The tubes for the headers allow the heat to dissipate before it reaches the bolts.
I also think part of the issue is that the cast iron manifolds are very thick, and they hold a lot of heat. This means they expand and contract at different rates to the aluminum cylinder heads. The shorty headers have a much thinner flange that allows the heat to dissipate much quicker.
@@JayyBird93 Technically Chrysler offers "upgraded" hardware that is supposed to prevent this from happening again, but it's like $5 per bolt, and at 17 bolts total plus gaskets it can get a little too expensive for some people.
I respect the concerns with the fumes from welding a zinc or galvanized nut, but I'll say that it worked for pulling several broken studs on my LS heads. Fumes are a concern with all forms of welding, and a good fan (or doing the work outside) goes a long way. I've seen a few of your videos on the Hemi lifter-related tick issues, and it seems Chrysler's experience is not much different than what all manufacturers are finding out; cylinder deactivating lifters are just not as reliable as their conventional counterparts. Hopefully they can get the issues sorted out and get back to having good, durable engines that will last like the pre-DOD engines did. Thanks for the videos, peace.
Thanks forthe kind words I appreciate it! Ya, welding a nut on there is purely a preference thing, lots of guys I know like to use that method. I think what's fascinating about the cylinder deactivation thing is that companies themselves don't want to do it, and they hate the added complexity and issues it brings to their engines! But because of ever increasing mileage and emissions standards they all have to play the game. 😞 like you said, maybe they'll figure it out, but maybe not either. Thanks for watching! 👍
Here's a little tidbit my mechanic and I stumbled on. Everything beyond the manifold is suspended by rubber hangers On my 2010 ram at 70k I started getting a loose coupler joint where the front Y pipe meets the single pipe. It leaked exhaust ot of that joint so we clamped it again with a new clamp. 20k later it happened again, the joint was loose and moving around This time my mechanic moved the clamp a little rearward re-tightend it and tacked the two piped with a few hits of the mig welder.. now at about 100k my Manifold bolt breaks at the passenger side rear. We repair that and I'm on my way. a few months later I'm in for an oil change and my mechanic noticed that connection was a little loose again and the mig spots on the exhaust had cracked and separated. We had a good look at it and wondered if it could be the weight of the exhaust swinging on the manifolds and snapping the rear studs.mmm we cut out that loose joint and removed 6" of pipe. Added a flex connecter..never touched the system or manifolds again. 350k now. I've replaced the flex connector once at 300 k.
My rear two exhaust stud was from hell, both side was in bad condition..on passenger side top one I had to use heat and work it back and forth ..that came out..bottom one close to the block was crazy my 110 volt welded would not hold, had to drill it out and use a tap..04 5.7 work truck
Oof, I sometimes forget about people who live more in rust belt areas where the broken bolts fight back a little more. Gladto hear you prevailed though!
Great video! what is your opinion on replacing the bolts with new as a preventative measure? It would eliminate the extra work removing a broken bolt and possible manifold.
My 2020 Challenger has been in the shop two months because of this OTHER tick. After taking it back to get the lifters replaced on the 2 month old engine that had just been replaced because the OG Engine failed, they called me on Friday to tell me they have to order an exhaust manifold.😑 I wish i had saw this video last month so i could have suggested this to the tech who was baffled by what was causing the tick.
It’s crazy you said it was rare for the front side to break, I just checked mine and it’s broken in the front!!! But thank you, I’ve been worried I’d have to do some engine work😅
The more you know 😎 I was hearing a tick on my RT that sounded like exhaust manifold (used to fix a lot of Nissan v6 that broke studs) but everyone talked so much about the lifters kind of had me looking the wrong way 😂
Actually the factory itself offers a stronger bolt, they're about 5 bucks each, but supposedly they are much stronger. Not a lot of people opt for them though.
The problem is the factory manifolds are warped so bad that it causes excessive preload on manifold studs causing them to fail. I took my manifolds off and put a straight edge across them and found they were like 3/16 of an inch warped off center. Ordered new manifolds off Amazon (yes China made but they all are) they were not warped and replaced with new gaskets and hardware. No more tick and shouldn’t happen again. If you don’t replace warped manifolds you can expect this to happen again. I suppose you might be able to have a machine shop mill your factory ones flat but I never looked into it to see if it could be done.
This is true enough. Originally when this was first happening at the dealership we were sending the manifolds out to be surfaced flat again. Then we were just installing new exhaust manifolds period, then Chrysler decided they didn't want to pay for new manifolds anymore, so now we just put the old ones right back on... 🙄
Great stuff! Question - You mentioned a few times in your responses about an upgraded hardware from Ram but it is expensive. Please define the difference in numbers of what the standard parts cost vs. the good stuff. I would like to know if paying the extra might save me one or more return trips to the shop to repeat this procedure, at significant cost each time. Do it right, do it once. Or do it cheap and be prepared to do it again. Of course this only applies if the upgraded parts actually ‘fix’ the problem. Thanks for your efforts, they are appreciated by many, myself included.
The problem that is missed in this video is the reason why the bolts break, and that reason is the exhaust manifold warp you either have to resurface the manifold or replace them or it will happen again in short order!
@@ReignitedAuto I just got a 2013 RT Classic in November and I was concerned about the tick (it only has 28k miles) and I was able to get past all of the lifter tick crap and I finally found some stuff about the injectors. Thinking about maybe getting some bigger Injectors down the road just so they'll be quiet lol.
I have this problem on my '12 Grand Cherokee. The dealer quoted me $3500 for a cam and lifters. Of course removing and reinstalling the heads to do the job would fix the actual exhaust issue... Sucks because up until this issue they've been great...
But if you think about it, the engine made it all these miles and is only having the issue now, if you do the cam/lifters you know it'll be good for many miles to come. Sucks to pay for it, but it's worth it in my opinion. Strangest thing to me is people who pay to have the job done, then sell the car immediately after, you JUST fixed it! 😄. But also, yes, if you've got the heads off most definitely fix the exhaust at that time, the grand cherokees are a royal pain in the butt to do on the car. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@RalphMercuroMusic I thought your previouscomment mentioned an estimated to replace the cam/lifters, maybe I misread it. Ah! I get it now, they miss diagnosed it, my bad.
@@ReignitedAuto Yes, The dealer quoted me for a cam and lifter job but the real problem is broken exhaust manifold bolts. In other words, they either made a huge error and weren't willing to back down from their diagnosis or they were attempting to rip me off.
@@RalphMercuroMusic probably the first thing you said. Once a tech makes a diagnosis they don't want to back away from it, even if they're wrong. Its a bad habit that a lot of techs get into.
First, i really enjoy watching your videos. You explain things in way that are easy to understand and follow. Thank you. Next, I have a 2008 dodge charger v8 5.7L (police) 157,350 miles. Has a bog down noise on ecellaration. Louder going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Please help! Thanks Again for All your content
I have replaced the pass side twice now and the drivers side, first time now, on my 5.7 [160,000 miles]. The manifolds are clearly warped [straight edge] I put it back together and it is still noisy. I'm sure the manifolds didn't seat up properly so I guess I'm gonna have to upgrade to headers. I don't want to replace with stock manifolds because I have heard stock replacements are just gonna warp again.
So I have a gen 3 hemi charger AWD pursuit. I have a noise that is not a tick or a knock and is loudest when going into 4cyl at 65mph. It goes almost away switching to 8 cyl. It can be heard through the steering shaft and in both modes it has a odd resonance like something is grounding from the chassis to the fire wall. No codes, no performance issues it's just NVH. I am a mechanic of 25+ years and I have worked for ford, gm and now volvo plus 10 years in the aftermarket. It does not sound like valve trane to me it's loudest twords the rear middle of the block ( used stethoscope to pin point ) . I have almost zero experience with these cars and I really don't want to bring this to the dealership as I don't trust anyone to be inside my car ( worked in this industry a long time and I know that I will get " that guy " that will just over hand chuck parts at it) honor and image are at stake here. Could use some pointers.
Sounds to me like you're on the right track. That definitely sounds like a resonance issue more than anything else. I'd be looking at the front crossmember for anything that might contact the crossmember. Possibly the transfer case or something near the steering rack. If the mounts are worn for the engine/trans that might allow something to touch. It only takes the lightest touch for a bad vibration to appear. Like I said, I think you're on the right track. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I finally found it....the flex plate is fractured in four spots. They seemed to have had this issue back in the day with the w body trucks . Everyone told me it was lifters and I was like " it sounds like there is a loose block in my block " it was hollow and tingy at the same time. Being I work at a Volvo dealer I figured I'd take it and let the dodge dealership fix it ( the second time I've let some one else fix my car in my life ) and they are a week+ behind😳. It's a half day job max... FML !!!
I love the information and I wanted to day Thanks !! While I just sold my 2013 that had what I thought was the lifter tick and now realize that it may in fact have been this situation you shared here. I now have a 2019 2500 but I will be certain to pay attention to any and all noises it makes... Also I just sub'd as well
I have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit 5.7. Im watching both of your Hemi videos because it just started ticking at 92k miles. It ticks in time with RPMs and stops completely when warmed up.
Yea I'll probably add that video at some point. It's very similar, only real difference is that you want to unbolt the steering shaft to give a little more room to work with. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I'm working on removing broken bolts on a 2005 5.7l durango and so far just the nuts are broken off and I need to remove them and resurface the manifold a bit, then back on and hope the idle bog problem will be resolved
My father's 09 5.7 has a tick thanks to your vids, gong to dignose the tick better so I don't have To pull engine ps. It's under 90k so I'm thinking exhaust.
I’m dealing with this issue currently on a 2019 ram 1500 with about 60,000 miles on it just passed my factory warranty. From what I’ve read the issue stems from a warping exhaust manifold causing the bolts to sheer. I would much rather replace them with a aftermarket header/exhaust manifold from happening again.
Definitely a valid option, and one that known to work well. The stock manifolds are so thick and retain so much heat it's an issue. Aftermarket headers usually are able to dissipate that heat much better and don't usually suffer this issue.
You my friend are an automotive angel. I've been researching my hemi tick and was certain it was the lifter issue I've been seeing everywhere. BUT after seeing your video I popped my wheel off and quickly identified broken bolts and a floppy heat shield. Just fixed it with a new gasket, o ring and bolts. TRUCK NOW sounds like the day I drove it off the lot. I just finished and immediately wanted to thank you !!!!!
Thank you one hundred times! I heard the tick and have been freaking out with all the horror stories of lifters. I checked the manifold shroud, and low and behold, two bolts were broken.
Thanks again, you rock!
Sweet! This is exactly what I wanted to hear when I made this video 👍
It’s clear you’ve done this many times, cause you make it look so easy!
Great tips and explanation of the different ways to tackle the repair here.
Two things. The exhaust bolts from the factory often have thread lock on them. It is designed to hold fast when cold. If you heat up the remaining stud first you'll have more luck backing it out. 2ndly, for studs that are sheared off at the block you can buy a template kit online that bolts onto the head and you use it as a drilling guide, and can also be used to re-tap the threads. I highly recommend this for any Hemi owner. There are several on the market Lisle is one. As a preventative measure, replace the two rear most bolts every two years and "Do not over torque".
That's one of the side benefits of the method I use, since the welding process heats the remainder of the stud and breaks that thread lock residue free. Definitely if you're not able to access a welder those kits to drill the studs out are very helpful, trying to do it freehand is not advised 😄. Appreciate the tips you've offered! 👍
@@ReignitedAutoI’m getting ready to do this on my 2015. While I’m in there I’m doing struts and control arms. I figured it would be a good idea while it’s apart. 82k on the truck. I bought new manifolds but I’ll check the old ones first to see if they can be reused. You stated you’ve used the old ones on reinstall. Any trouble with that because they are warped? Thanks for the videos and the those latex gloves are the best.
Does ARP make exhaust manifold studs for the HEMI? I would think that if they do that they would not be breaking off like the FCA ones.
@@ReignitedAutohello!! I recently bought a 2013 Ram 1500. The check engine light is on because of a "CO2 leak" that could be the possible reason that the engine shuts off when I use the remote starter.
Please, can you advise me if this(video) could be the problem for the CO2 leak?? If not, do you have an idea what could be the problem and how to fix?? (Excuse me my english is not perfect. I hope you understand what I said) Thank you!!
@@melaniecharbonneau2646 I'm going to guess that the code is due to a vacuum leak, that's the only thing I can think of that corresponds to a c02 leak. Do you have the exact code number? If it is a vacuum leak then broken exhaust bolts are not the problem. There is likely a leak somewhere after the throttle body that will need to be found. I would start by looking for a disconnected hose from the intake manifold.
Just got a 2012 Ram 1500 that had a ticking sound but after watching your video, I found out that the real issue was an exhaust leak. Just like you said, passenger side, rear bolt had sheered off and the heat shield was loose. Thank you for posting the video!!
Comments like this are exactly why I made the video, glad I could help!
I've been telling people for years that the lifter issue isn't as common as they think! But you are correct in the fact that the notoriety of the lifter issue is so inflated everyone thinks their Ram will ultimately have this issue. I have 140k on my Ram and I have a passenger side broken exhaust bolt and need to fix it but my lifters are doing just fine.
Nice! thanks for the feedback 👍
I think I unfortunately bought my 2011 Srt8 with only 45k on it with lifter failure. Not 100% sure yet 😭
Learning alot about the hemi with your channel, and I'm appreciative. Great job!
Thanks very much for watching! 👍
FYI. You are my new favorite Channel.! Well done, great subject, video, audio, commentary, and editing. THANKS FOR THE GREAT WORK. 👍👍
Thanks man I really appreciate it! 👍
Couldn’t agree more. Don’t see much good content about the hemi. Usually it’s just an exhaust video lol you go in depth and are severely underrated 👍🏻
I realize I am 3yrs late watching this video. Excellent documenting and explaination of this maintenance performed. Straight and to the point without overthinking, stupid background music and usless talk as most do and people just get cOrNfUzEd. Did both sides of mine a few weeks ago. Easy tasks to perform even when you need center-punch, drill in and easy-out the sub-surface broken bolts. You had some tips I wished I knew before I did mine. Again, Super Job bringing light to people who think they need to take it to the Dodge dealership and find out it's a $1300 repair when they can do it for about $150. Have a great Navy Day!
Idk how you stay so cool and relaxed. Any time I am dealing with busted bolts in a cylinder head, I have emptied the bag on curse words lol.
You know, the Hemi does make it easy because once the bolt starts coming out they spin out with no issue. I've done LS engines before, and those bolts will fight you for every 1/4 turn! And forget about iron heads!
I done so many manifold gaskets on these trucks and wound up thinking about it a lot. My best estimate is the weight of the exhaust system stresses the rear of the manifold causing the breakage. I’ve seriously contemplated adding a hanger at the bell housing to take stress off the manifolds.
I have heard of another possible reason for the problem. It was that too hard of acceleration on a cold motor is a possible reason since the head is aluminum and the manifold is cast iron. The different metals heat up at a different rate and therefore expand at a different rate. Hard acceleration blasts a lot more heat on the cold metal. It sounds very possible to me. I had the problem with my 09 Ram which came with a lifetime drivetrain warranty so it didn't cost me anything to get fixed. Since then I always take it easy on the gas until I see the temp gauge getting close to normal operating temp as a precaution.
Flex connector at the Y
It's from the expansion and contraction of the cast vs the bolt. Over time the bolt hardness changes and exhaust is corrosive ....it weakens the bolt and it snaps. Happens on the LS engine all the time. I've found volvo exhaust bolts rarely do this because of the stainless boron alloy , they are also quite a stretchy bolt . It might just come down to cheap metal .
I've seen other RUclips videos that show the manifold warps. I'm sure all of your diagnosis are good. I've see that shorty headers are the only permanent fix. Reusing the manifold will result in the same failure down the road.
@@superchile9640 I'm 300000 miles in and no issues since it's been fixed. It's a 2010 ram
You just saved someone from stripping down their engine thinking they had a lifter issue. A little knowledge is priceless!
Not to knock the value of this video but anyone who has the ability to tear down an engine to change the lifters will know enough to diagnose the issue first...
@@DL101ca Exactly right, however the video was to help the new kid working on his own engine not the experienced mechanic.
An old trick before you break them, says this old machinist. At the first sign of any resistance take a drift and give the bolt a good sharp rap.....'shock' them loose. Seems to be most effective with aluminum castings in my experience....good luck guys....!
Hey, thanks for that feedback! I'm going to give that a try next time, because there will always be a next time 😄. Thanks for watching! 👍
I love this video. It really just reminds me how much of a pain this truck is. 2014 Ram 1500. Lifter stuck with valve open, chipped off a chunk of piston. it went through the exhaust valve. Then when I tore it all down, I discovered that both manifolds had broken studs.
WOW! What a relief!!!! I have been freaking out and stressing over this "hemi tick".
I Just found my broken exhaust bolts!! This is definitely the best feeling I have ever gotten from a RUclips video!! Thank you!!
I have the same problem with the drivers side now, I just had the passenger side fixed 2 yrs ago. It cost me 900 dollars, now the drivers side is doing it and no one wants to tackle it. My truck is in good shape with lifted kit, and tires, but a good mechanic is a blessing.
My 2916 Ram 1500 passenger side top back studded bolt broke flush just out of warranty. Did the re and re in my home garage. Be patient. Drilled and EZout with high quality left hand drill bits. I did my research and spoke to FCA. FYI FCA makes two types of replacement bolts. The cheaper set (about $1 per bolt) are the originals. The ones with a white paint dot on the heatsheild stud tip are the ones FCA recommemds to dealers to repair the issue for the back bolts. The first two dealerships parts people I spoke with were not aware of the improved bolts. The third had a tech that knew what they were for and used them. This was not easy to find out. I was told they are a different metal composition and are $5 each. Worked well. Thanks.
You are absolutely correct on this, we have the upgraded bolts available at the dealer where I worked at. Due to cost, almost nobody opted to pay for them, which is funny because you're right there, might as well upgrade now, but people can't justify it for some reason. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto What is the part number for the upgraded bolts?
I replaced them once and would like to swap them out before the break again.
@@craigcwillard I don't have the part numbers myself, but if you talk to the parts dept at the dealer and ask for the pricing on the upgraded hardware they'll know exactly what you mean. 👍
@@craigcwillard The part number for the studded heat shield manifold bolts (revised upgraded) is 06509863AA. They are currently about $7-8 US each. They have a white paint dot on the stud tip. Be aware that scammers are selling them much cheaper with the dot painted on the cheaper bolts. Suggest you buy from a known reputable source. I bought mine from a dealership.
Had to do this on the 4.7 about 10 years ago. You’d think they would have figured out a better bolt by now. Thanks for the video!
Haha, I think the same thing 👍
Seems like they would have come up with an oversize bolt, hardened bolt, ??? by now.
@@donholm9719 the factory does offer "upgraded" hardware but it's more expensive and most people just opt to replace with stock stuff. 👍
Man I am so thankful for you putting this knowledge out there. You nailed my issue spot on 1000000% thought I had the lifter tick issue, went outside after watching this video and found my heat shield on passenger side back of the motor was loose. 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 right at 100k miles.
That's awesome! Comments like this is exactly why I made the video. Thank you for watching! 👍
Finally a tech that knows using a welder is the easiest way to extract a broken bolt starting at 9:21. I have not used a "bolt extractor" in over 30 years except for removing die cast GM heater hose quick connectors from GM intake manifolds. I cannot begin to tell you how many times some one has broken off an extractor and offset drilled a hole trying to get a bolt out then they bring it to me. I have even used a welder to extract a bolt that was broken off 1 inch below the surface.
Yea my bolt extractor set lies forgotten in the bottom of my box 😄
They should play this at the FCA training center's for fixing manifold leaks.
Thanks! 👍
My theory on why these break. - 1) The heat shield covers the front three cylinders and the back of the manifold hangs out a good bit.
2) While driving on rainy wet roads when you hit a deeper puddle a lot of water splashes and it hits that exposed portion of the manifold, this quickly cools and warps the manifold eventually to the point of breaking the studs.
3) The right side more commonly breaks because there are more deep puddles along the curb.
4) The studs could have been sized larger but the corporate bean counters not going to make that happen now. A cheap fix would be to enlarge the heat or should I say rain shield.
btw I put new manifolds on my Ram 1500 because when I laid the old ones on a table, the front three exhaust ports laid flat and the rear most was better than an 1/8 inch in the air. And I mean the rust pattern matches the warping and makes it pretty obvious this is the problem. smdh
I grinded mine flat. Once cast iron goes through the heat cycle of warps you can never happen a second time
I think this could happen, sure. However it far more likely that for whatever reason that side for the motor or both are running lean. I.e. the exhaust gas temp is super hot b_c the air fuel mix is off, prob from a fuel pump having low pressure or a vacuum leak on the intake will cause a lean condition as well. Also i have seen plenty of bent valves on these things which can also cause a lean condition. Any of these or a combination of two or more will cause the exhaust gas temp to sore. The manifold gets to hot and expands the stainless bolts have no give so they just shear off. If u are lucky they dont break of flush. But they always break off flush tho.)
I just want to say this just to put it out in the word. But from years of racing motocross. I figured out that if you cut the bolt with a Dremel you can get a flat head or even a Phillips, and a T20-T25 star is strongest if you want to get fancy. Put an impact on it and zip it out.
Had this on both sides of my 09 ram 1500. Dealer took care of it under my lifetime powertrain warranty thankfully. Now i check them everytime i do an oil change just to make sure they didn’t break again. They broke somewhere around 85,000 miles
Keep that lifetime warranty going! Chrysler was in a bad spot when they offered that lifetime powertrain warranty, and it's been a lifesaver for a lot of people. Make sure you keep it up to date!
Great Video concerning the issue of broken studs on the 5.7 Hemi. Thanks for sharing this information. Your explanations are very detailed!
You're welcome, and thank you for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto does they often broke on the 5.7? Ive got a Challenger and some new headers i wanted to mount next month. But i dont realy warnt to Deal with broken studs
Nice tip on welding just the stud to get it out! This reminds me I need to recheck the torque on my truck manifolds as I noticed some soot between them and the heads.....not something I’m looking forward to, and yes I’m being lazy.
If I remember correctly the access for those manifolds is terrible though! I wouldn't be looking forward to it either 😒
I've been watching your videos for the 1st time. Very knowledgeable and your logical thing is dead on.
This issue with rear exhaust studs breaking is from lack of flow in the exhaust manifold. The rear cylinders are closest to the collector so heat up the most and thus break 1st. A better manifold flow would have improved the issue. It is an issue with all v8s over time.
There's no question these factory manifolds are terrible 😄
Man.... every time I have an issue your videos come up on my feed with a fix... you my good sir are my Mopar saint, you should have your own day for showing everyone how easy difficult issues can be, of course I subscribed and have every alert for every video you make, I even gave myself some free time today to watch that custom truck you built with the 6.4. Can you make a video about the " service all wheel drive" that comes on my 2016 charger police intermittently?
Been there down that on the Ram 2500. I had the exact same problem and because of the angle of the head to the frame it could not be drilled. That's when I learned about welding like you did. I do check them for warpage though. If they have been running for a while with a broken stud they can get pretty warped. Unlike dealerships all my customers are repeat for life. So I know the vehicle as opposed to a dealership where the tech thinks its fixed and never sees the vehicle again. Another great video
Appreciate you watching Wayne, interestingly, we used to replace all the exhaust manifolds that had broken bolts, then Chrysler stopped paying for them, they would only pay to replace the actual bolt that broke, and a new gasket. 🙄 Classis Chrysler I guess...
@@ReignitedAuto That's why I love watching guys like you who specialized on a certain brand. I worked on 18 wheelers for a long time and transitioned into auto as a missionary outreach for single moms. Folks like you really help us guys who work on everything under the sun. It always improves my diagnosing skills. Thank you brother.
I think my 2016 has this; it’s very noticeable when first started cold, and even when it’s been driven for a while and warmed but parked for a little while, like 30-45 min, I can hear it briefly again. When it’s cold, it is there for longer than 30 seconds; prob 2-3 minutes.
Thanks for being out there for us dodge people I have learned a lot from your videos I already have a mechanical background not licensed by any means I have been working on all my owe vehicle's for years I'm doing a rebuild on my 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7 I had a p0303 code and p02308 so I started digging into the problem looking at spark plugs first then coils I test each one all were working I even replaced 4 of them just to be sure but problem still was there so next step was to remove the valve cover to check valve spring's I did this with the engine off first and checked for broken spring's everything seemed normal nothing broken then I started the engine to see if there was any difference between the other valve spring's and of course there really wasn't so next step is I started removing the engine to see if I had a bad cam and the mds lifers again not really some wear on the cam and few of the lifters but nothing really terrible probably could get another 100000 km out of them maybe now my heads are off the block was there corrosion on the Pistons yes there was but again nothing terrible easy to clean up and as for the valves intake and exhaust was there corrosion on that to yes but again nothing terrible again easy to clean up so then I started digging into the Pistons themselves remove them from the block then I noticed some scoring on the sides of four of the Pistons out of 8 piston so now so now I am replacing everything including except for the crank it's in great shape all sensors I just glad I know how to do this myself I'll have a brand new motor when I'm done I even Honed out the cylinder walls I also did have broken studs on my exhaust manifold two of them on the passenger side I believe so again thank you for all your great videos I definitely do appreciate it
Very nice Dave, way to get deep into it! That's my hope with my videos is that they can help people, glad to hear it's coming together for you 👍
Ya definitely just waiting for parts and new tools to do the job I also got the headlight issues aswell in the tipm
@@davephawke8944 stupid TIPMs 😤
@@ReignitedAuto yup I'm really pissed about this it all started back in 2013 and of course I complained to dodge Canada I really got no where with them one of the people I had spoken to even told me he didn't see it as a safety issue I completely disagreed with this person obviously it started with the passenger side lowbeam not working so I did what I always do dig into it by checking the wiring harness no luck there no as of today's date passenger side lowbeam is still not working and to add to all of that my daytime running light on the driver's side quit working a while back and my high beam light on the driver's side don't work either it's not the bulbs I checked and it's not the plugs replaced the passenger side plus dodge only part and as for my engine parts I ordered most of them from rock auto great prices
Nice to see a real pro trying to help people
Appreciate you watching peter!
I just did six broken bolts altogether.(2012, 170k kms) One on each side was broke...2 on each side broke on removal...I'm in the rust belt in Ontario...more like calcium sprayed dirt roads here. I ended up buying a Lisle template and drilled for extractor...one helicoil was needed...good times...and still ticking away lol
Oof! I grew up on the coast with rust, I promised myself I'd never live where it rusts again! Where I live now you can leave bare steel outside for months with no issue. I feel for you guys deep in the rust!
Great info. I do work at a dealership. I usually do the same methods you use. Except on this one. I would rather drill and extract it. Angle drill does well here. Majority of the time I spend no more than 5 to 10 mins drilling and extracting.
Yep, if you've got a good system no need to change it! 👍
Rough estimate, how much do y’all normally charge for this?
I did the weld nib on trick but didn't put a rag into the exhaust pipe. So we had a major exhaust leak after putting it all back together. what happened is a couple very small spatters landed into the exhaust and it would not tighten together properly. Very thankful to the muffler shop I called and he told me that can happen.
You need to be checking the manifold for warpage as that is the main cause. I have seen as much as .060 in. in some, mostly caused by heavy towing. It will stop come backs and serve your customers well!
On customer pay vehicles I generally do check for excessive warpage. Chrysler stopped paying for new manifolds when doing this job under warranty unfortunately. 👍
Hello, thank you so much for all the excellent information Mr. Reignited!
I have watched all you Hemi videos and want to give my 2015 5.7 it's best chance for a healthy long life. Currently 45k miles and no problems at all. I do regular oil changes with good oil, no excessive idling, etc.
I see all the discussion about repairing broken bolts, but no talk about replacing the bolts before they break.
Wouldn't it be a very good idea to replace them all every 30-40k miles, and install the factory upgraded bolts (at least on the rear exhaust ports) ??? And coat with anit-seize to keep head threads in good condition.
It seems like that would be MUCH easier than trying to dig a broken bolt out of the head at some point.
Why don't people change the bolts before they break, or am I missing something?
Thanks so much for your excellent videos and sharing your wealth of information with all of humanity! 🙂
Basically it comes down to the fact that it's a lot of work for a preventative measure to many people. I definitely recommend upgrading to the stainless bolts at the front and rear of the manifolds, helps quite a bit! Appreciate you watching 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks again! I really appreciate it.
Yup. Saw this MANY times. Customers complain it sounded like an old pockup on start, and after it got to N.O.T it was quiet. Ive never had it on mine with 200k, but i replaced headers at 100, and doing it again at 200🤣
Hmmm. Broken exhaust manifold bolts! Wow! I love your method of getting that stud out of the head that broke flush. Welding that blob on the end and working it out with vicegrips was GENIUS!
Have to admit I want the one who came up with it, but hey it works good 👍 thanks for watching!
My rear stud was impossible to remove via drilling and welding a nut, also broke a second one... was on a time limit so I put copper permatex on and added headers, replaced old bolts and decided to kick the can down the road to fix later if it became an issue...5 years later zero leak, zero tick, copper permatex for the win! LOL
Another tip: if you dont want to deal with it again in a short period of time use stainless steel bolts. I did it on my truck 4 years ago and the bolts still look like the first day i put them on. The bolts are a little more spensive than a regular one but believe me is worth it.
You'll never get those stainless bolts out.
@@starmc26 YOU THINK SO ? I DONT THINK THERE WILL BE A PROBLEM. IM GONNA TRY THEM SOON CUZ IM UPGRADING SOME PARTS, HOPEFULY THEY COME OUT EASY.
@@tonyvtech25 Just my experience with stainless bolts. I used to rebuild EMS vehicles, firetrucks and ambulances.... Stainless hardware was always an issue. Best to go with grade 8 bolts.
We used this trick with Chevy police cars back in the day.The SS bolts will not break!
So glad I found your channel! I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee summit 5.7 with 45k miles. And it’s constantly in the shop! Glad I found your channel! Keep em coming! 🙏🏼💯💯
Great channel you have and I hope you grow fast. Great content and very clear in your teaching. I bought my 2016 ram 5.7 in Oct and took it back to get the bolts fixed, along with other issues they found. Luckily it was all covered by warranty.
Nice! Thank you for watching 👍
God damn. I just spent 3 weeks ordering parts and tearing into my hemi. Got to the timing chain and oil pump, dropped the pan and couldn't find anything wrong. No glitter... nothing. New water pump, fan clutch, alternator etc. Because it sounded like a horrible rod knock I never checked the obvious hemi problem. I just went out and looked at me heat shield, and was able to take a bolt or by hand. All this time and unnecessary money and it's just a gasket and handful of bolts. Well I know I can tear the front end and valve covers off in less than a couple hours now hahaha
Happen to me on an LS
I Threw all factory bolts out and in with marine grade 304 stainless steel bolts, coate threads with high temp cooper anti-seize compound
For sure the LS has this same reputation. Although the LS bolts are generally much harder to extract for some reason. That's been my experience anyway. Good call on the anti-seize 👍
You must be in the dryest climate in the US. 200K AND NO RUST. Amazing.
Makes working kn everything easier.
No question about it. I actually grew up on the Oregon coast with tons of rust, swore I'd never do that again. Moved to central Oregon, no rust at all, no humidity. Now down here in Texas, and it was a prerequisite that I move somewhere where rust is not a factor LOL.
New sub! Last night I binged watch your 300C 5.7 engine serie! That was the best
Great video! Keep in mind that the studs on the manifold cover are not the only ones that break, so even if it it not loose you could still have a broken bolt. At 190,000 miles I removed my manifolds to replace with long tube headers. On my left side I had the second from the bottom front bolt break. Thankfully after 12 attempts to weld on a nut to the sheared stud, I got it out. Do not put back on the headers unless you have all the studs in place as it will leak if you do this.
You're right, I have seen the regular bolts break from time to time as well 👍
I like your method of building weld up over welding a nut to the broken stud. Since my 2014 Ram 1500 w 82k miles started ticking two weeks ago, I'm sure I'll try your method first. I think I'll bite the bullet for the better hardware package as I don't want to do the job again down the road. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and I'm sure it'll go well, the 1500's are the easiest ones to do 👍
ive owned 3 ram 1500 trucks. 1998, 2003 and 2006 and I've never had ANY of the hemi ticks. not a single one. now I know the 1998 ram 1500 I had did not have the hemi, but it still didn't have any of the other tick issues. also I've owned a 2006 300C and a 2009 Charger RT. also with those 2, I've never had ANY of the hemi ticks.
Nice video, excellent explanation with how it sounds before and after. I had to take my 1500 to the dealer for a head gasket job, because I felt the job would be a bit overwhelming especially without a lift at home. The dealer is now telling me I might have a camshaft issue as well. I originally took it in for white smoke coming from the exhaust, which I know it was a head gasket issue. I think they are trying to blow some smoke on top of the white smoke 🤣🤣🤣🤥
Good time to do it though, especially if there's a decent amount of miles on the engine already. 👍
Great explanations.... I have a 2015 1500 with 5.7.….I had the exhaust leak....drivers side....after repairing that....cylinder 5 ticking......cam and lifter needed replaced.....in process of assembly now....seems like they are getting more and more failures.....my friend has a 2012 1500.....both leaking and bad cam...
With more mileage and time we are bound to see more failures, things wear out. You can see this same trend with Hondas and Toyotas as well. All engines break down at some point.
To weld zinc/galvanization well, u have to use CuSi3 welding wire. This wire is special for the this material. Greatings from Poland.
I did not know that, thanks for the info! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto i sell welding materials and equipments in Poland. So many welders dont know that :)
Nope! The bolt is not galvanized! Just the outside! You are welding inside the broken bolt!
@@donraptor6156 Yes, if u weld inside :) but if u weld outside, u must change welding wire to CuSi3 type.
Just commented on your lifter vid, but this is exactly what my durango sounds like.
Yep, I was going to comment on your previous post to check the exhaust manifolds first, far more common 👍
Just had both manifolds replaced on my 14 5.7 hemi...quiet as a mouse now!
Funny how big of a difference it makes right? Sometimes we get used to certain noises, and when they go away it's like "Wow" 😅
This guy is a nice guy,....nice guy's do win.
Why thank you Roy! 👍
I should off researched I changed my lifters n cam pistons head gasket and turns out it was a easy fix exhaust manifold
What a blessing it would be to have you around. And if you got really upset if you were not working on peoples stuff for free. 😳
😄
Are you in my garage? You nailed it brother and I love the "I bet your Hemi is doing that right now!" Mindreading tech ninja.
You are also pregnant with a baby boy..... No? Ah well, can't win em all 😄
Glad you made it clear for these dummies in the lx forums. All of them swear the lifter issues are inevitable. They all claim it will happen sooner or later smh
Just dont know, my 2010 Charger RT with 130K is quiet as a mouse, my 2014 Challenger RT has had lifter issues since I got it at 28000 miles. Dealer replaced passenger bank of lifters and you can still hear it if the radio is off. Its loud and the valvetrain ticks like mad. The injectors on that car are also VERY loud. I gave up fighting Dodge, Ill throw in a Comp Cam and updated lifters when it finally does its thing. I dont see it as inevitable though I know a LOT of people with Hemis and my Challenger has the worst noise out of dozens I've seen.
Thank you so much my 5.7 is making the exact ticking noise like this...i am gonna fix it my self thank you million times.
Excellent video! After changing mine 3 times inside of 75k miles, I think I have found the root cause of this. I believe that the reason that it is usually only the back 2 bolts is because of the extreme heat radiating up from the catalytic converters that are only inches away. This would explain why people that install shorty headers never seem to have the issue again. The tubes for the headers allow the heat to dissipate before it reaches the bolts.
I also think part of the issue is that the cast iron manifolds are very thick, and they hold a lot of heat. This means they expand and contract at different rates to the aluminum cylinder heads. The shorty headers have a much thinner flange that allows the heat to dissipate much quicker.
@@ReignitedAuto so unfortunately nothing can be done to avoid this one other than performance headers?
@@JayyBird93 Technically Chrysler offers "upgraded" hardware that is supposed to prevent this from happening again, but it's like $5 per bolt, and at 17 bolts total plus gaskets it can get a little too expensive for some people.
@@ReignitedAuto wow 17 bolts? How many hold down each manifold? Is there a part number for the whole kit?
@@JayyBird93 8 on the left side and 9 on the right. Unfortunately there's no "kit", the parts dept has to price out each bolt individually.
I respect the concerns with the fumes from welding a zinc or galvanized nut, but I'll say that it worked for pulling several broken studs on my LS heads. Fumes are a concern with all forms of welding, and a good fan (or doing the work outside) goes a long way. I've seen a few of your videos on the Hemi lifter-related tick issues, and it seems Chrysler's experience is not much different than what all manufacturers are finding out; cylinder deactivating lifters are just not as reliable as their conventional counterparts. Hopefully they can get the issues sorted out and get back to having good, durable engines that will last like the pre-DOD engines did. Thanks for the videos, peace.
Thanks forthe kind words I appreciate it! Ya, welding a nut on there is purely a preference thing, lots of guys I know like to use that method. I think what's fascinating about the cylinder deactivation thing is that companies themselves don't want to do it, and they hate the added complexity and issues it brings to their engines! But because of ever increasing mileage and emissions standards they all have to play the game. 😞 like you said, maybe they'll figure it out, but maybe not either. Thanks for watching! 👍
There is not a miniscule amount of galvanized there Not enough tocause metal fume poisoning.
Great video...I have a broken bolt or two so Dodge dealership tells me. $700
Hmm, I maybe able to buy a welder for that much.
Thanks.
Appreciate you watching! 👍
I have to do this repair tomorrow at work on one of our fleet trucks. Thanks for the info!
great video, I think i will change mine out before they break off!
If you're down to do the work it's probably a good idea as it's a matter of when, not if. Thanks for watching! 👍
Here's a little tidbit my mechanic and I stumbled on. Everything beyond the manifold is suspended by rubber hangers
On my 2010 ram at 70k I started getting a loose coupler joint where the front Y pipe meets the single pipe. It leaked exhaust ot of that joint so we clamped it again with a new clamp. 20k later it happened again, the joint was loose and moving around
This time my mechanic moved the clamp a little rearward re-tightend it and tacked the two piped with a few hits of the mig welder.. now at about 100k my Manifold bolt breaks at the passenger side rear.
We repair that and I'm on my way.
a few months later I'm in for an oil change and my mechanic noticed that connection was a little loose again and the mig spots on the exhaust had cracked and separated. We had a good look at it and wondered if it could be the weight of the exhaust swinging on the manifolds and snapping the rear studs.mmm we cut out that loose joint and removed 6" of pipe. Added a flex connecter..never touched the system or manifolds again. 350k now.
I've replaced the flex connector once at 300 k.
My rear two exhaust stud was from hell, both side was in bad condition..on passenger side top one I had to use heat and work it back and forth ..that came out..bottom one close to the block was crazy my 110 volt welded would not hold, had to drill it out and use a tap..04 5.7 work truck
Oof, I sometimes forget about people who live more in rust belt areas where the broken bolts fight back a little more. Gladto hear you prevailed though!
Thanks
Great video! what is your opinion on replacing the bolts with new as a preventative measure? It would eliminate the extra work removing a broken bolt and possible manifold.
My 2020 Challenger has been in the shop two months because of this OTHER tick. After taking it back to get the lifters replaced on the 2 month old engine that had just been replaced because the OG Engine failed, they called me on Friday to tell me they have to order an exhaust manifold.😑 I wish i had saw this video last month so i could have suggested this to the tech who was baffled by what was causing the tick.
I'm having this fixed on my truck at the dealer at this moment I'm watching this video... haha.
😄
Awesome video , I have this issue on my 2012 ram 1500, the rear stud on the driver-side broke, thanks for explaining this
Appreciate you watching!
You my guy are a real unsung hero.
😄Thanks for watching! 👍
Thank YOU for the education! Love the videos!!
It’s crazy you said it was rare for the front side to break, I just checked mine and it’s broken in the front!!! But thank you, I’ve been worried I’d have to do some engine work😅
Fantastic video! Recently acquire a ‘14 Ram 2500 4x4 that I might have this issue on. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
Hopefully it helps you out! Thanks for watching 👍
Man I love these I have a 2012 ram 2500 5.7 and I have had that lifter issue..... I wish I would of found you along time ago
Thanks Matthew!
Retorqueing the bolts after a couple if heat up cycles should help sealing process, possibly while its warm.
The more you know 😎 I was hearing a tick on my RT that sounded like exhaust manifold (used to fix a lot of Nissan v6 that broke studs) but everyone talked so much about the lifters kind of had me looking the wrong way 😂
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your professional help... But I would call this a 7 skill level
Appreciate you watching! 👍
I am in the middle of doing this job right now on a Grand Cherokee and your not kidding access is terrible.
Thanks for the info. My Hemi has the tick kn start up then stops but reoccurs on exleration but die when I let of the pedal.
Yep, classic symptoms of broken exhaust bolts 👍
Pertaining to the bolts only, if they are known to break them why replace with the same factory parts? Isn’t their an aftermarket bolt that is better?
Actually the factory itself offers a stronger bolt, they're about 5 bucks each, but supposedly they are much stronger. Not a lot of people opt for them though.
The problem is the factory manifolds are warped so bad that it causes excessive preload on manifold studs causing them to fail. I took my manifolds off and put a straight edge across them and found they were like 3/16 of an inch warped off center. Ordered new manifolds off Amazon (yes China made but they all are) they were not warped and replaced with new gaskets and hardware. No more tick and shouldn’t happen again. If you don’t replace warped manifolds you can expect this to happen again. I suppose you might be able to have a machine shop mill your factory ones flat but I never looked into it to see if it could be done.
This is true enough. Originally when this was first happening at the dealership we were sending the manifolds out to be surfaced flat again. Then we were just installing new exhaust manifolds period, then Chrysler decided they didn't want to pay for new manifolds anymore, so now we just put the old ones right back on... 🙄
Great stuff! Question - You mentioned a few times in your responses about an upgraded hardware from Ram but it is expensive. Please define the difference in numbers of what the standard parts cost vs. the good stuff. I would like to know if paying the extra might save me one or more return trips to the shop to repeat this procedure, at significant cost each time. Do it right, do it once. Or do it cheap and be prepared to do it again. Of course this only applies if the upgraded parts actually ‘fix’ the problem. Thanks for your efforts, they are appreciated by many, myself included.
Great advice. Thanks for taking your time to help us out.
I appreciate you watching!
The problem that is missed in this video is the reason why the bolts break, and that reason is the exhaust manifold warp you either have to resurface the manifold or replace them or it will happen again in short order!
Well I unplug the battery honestly because I’ve personally witnessed a friend fry a diesel battery working on my truck once!
You should do a video about the injector tick.
They are noisy, seems like these engines are full of ticking noises😂 Thanks for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I just got a 2013 RT Classic in November and I was concerned about the tick (it only has 28k miles) and I was able to get past all of the lifter tick crap and I finally found some stuff about the injectors. Thinking about maybe getting some bigger Injectors down the road just so they'll be quiet lol.
I have this problem on my '12 Grand Cherokee. The dealer quoted me $3500 for a cam and lifters. Of course removing and reinstalling the heads to do the job would fix the actual exhaust issue... Sucks because up until this issue they've been great...
But if you think about it, the engine made it all these miles and is only having the issue now, if you do the cam/lifters you know it'll be good for many miles to come. Sucks to pay for it, but it's worth it in my opinion. Strangest thing to me is people who pay to have the job done, then sell the car immediately after, you JUST fixed it! 😄. But also, yes, if you've got the heads off most definitely fix the exhaust at that time, the grand cherokees are a royal pain in the butt to do on the car. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Why would I even consider opening the engine, replacing cam and lifters for an exhaust leak?
@@RalphMercuroMusic I thought your previouscomment mentioned an estimated to replace the cam/lifters, maybe I misread it.
Ah! I get it now, they miss diagnosed it, my bad.
@@ReignitedAuto Yes, The dealer quoted me for a cam and lifter job but the real problem is broken exhaust manifold bolts. In other words, they either made a huge error and weren't willing to back down from their diagnosis or they were attempting to rip me off.
@@RalphMercuroMusic probably the first thing you said. Once a tech makes a diagnosis they don't want to back away from it, even if they're wrong. Its a bad habit that a lot of techs get into.
First, i really enjoy watching your videos. You explain things in way that are easy to understand and follow. Thank you. Next, I have a 2008 dodge charger v8 5.7L (police) 157,350 miles. Has a bog down noise on ecellaration. Louder going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Please help! Thanks Again for All your content
I have replaced the pass side twice now and the drivers side, first time now, on my 5.7 [160,000 miles]. The manifolds are clearly warped [straight edge] I put it back together and it is still noisy. I'm sure the manifolds didn't seat up properly so I guess I'm gonna have to upgrade to headers. I don't want to replace with stock manifolds because I have heard stock replacements are just gonna warp again.
So I have a gen 3 hemi charger AWD pursuit. I have a noise that is not a tick or a knock and is loudest when going into 4cyl at 65mph. It goes almost away switching to 8 cyl. It can be heard through the steering shaft and in both modes it has a odd resonance like something is grounding from the chassis to the fire wall. No codes, no performance issues it's just NVH. I am a mechanic of 25+ years and I have worked for ford, gm and now volvo plus 10 years in the aftermarket. It does not sound like valve trane to me it's loudest twords the rear middle of the block ( used stethoscope to pin point ) . I have almost zero experience with these cars and I really don't want to bring this to the dealership as I don't trust anyone to be inside my car ( worked in this industry a long time and I know that I will get " that guy " that will just over hand chuck parts at it) honor and image are at stake here. Could use some pointers.
Sounds to me like you're on the right track. That definitely sounds like a resonance issue more than anything else. I'd be looking at the front crossmember for anything that might contact the crossmember. Possibly the transfer case or something near the steering rack. If the mounts are worn for the engine/trans that might allow something to touch. It only takes the lightest touch for a bad vibration to appear. Like I said, I think you're on the right track. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I finally found it....the flex plate is fractured in four spots. They seemed to have had this issue back in the day with the w body trucks . Everyone told me it was lifters and I was like " it sounds like there is a loose block in my block " it was hollow and tingy at the same time.
Being I work at a Volvo dealer I figured I'd take it and let the dodge dealership fix it ( the second time I've let some one else fix my car in my life ) and they are a week+ behind😳. It's a half day job max... FML !!!
I love the information and I wanted to day Thanks !! While I just sold my 2013 that had what I thought was the lifter tick and now realize that it may in fact have been this situation you shared here. I now have a 2019 2500 but I will be certain to pay attention to any and all noises it makes... Also I just sub'd as well
Thanks for watching and I hope I can help more in the future! 👍
Very informative. Great job explaining things. Thanks for taking the time to share. New subscriber. 👍
Thanks for watching and subscribing I appreciate it! 👍
I have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit 5.7. Im watching both of your Hemi videos because it just started ticking at 92k miles. It ticks in time with RPMs and stops completely when warmed up.
Definitely sounds like manifold bolt failure to me. Hate to say it, but those jeeps are a pain to do the manifolds on. 😬
Excellent video, sure wish you woulda did the drivers side though. In any event, great job and thank you for your efforts making this.
Yea I'll probably add that video at some point. It's very similar, only real difference is that you want to unbolt the steering shaft to give a little more room to work with. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I'm working on removing broken bolts on a 2005 5.7l durango and so far just the nuts are broken off and I need to remove them and resurface the manifold a bit, then back on and hope the idle bog problem will be resolved
My father's 09 5.7 has a tick thanks to your vids, gong to dignose the tick better so I don't have
To pull engine ps. It's under 90k so I'm thinking exhaust.
Sweet! Glad I could help, and yes I would definitely chase exhaust first 👍
I’m dealing with this issue currently on a 2019 ram 1500 with about 60,000 miles on it just passed my factory warranty. From what I’ve read the issue stems from a warping exhaust manifold causing the bolts to sheer. I would much rather replace them with a aftermarket header/exhaust manifold from happening again.
Definitely a valid option, and one that known to work well. The stock manifolds are so thick and retain so much heat it's an issue. Aftermarket headers usually are able to dissipate that heat much better and don't usually suffer this issue.
I had a Dakota with this problem. I don't have this tick. I definitely have the lifter tick. It's making a ting noise.
Is it the 4.7 engine? If so I can almost guarantee it was the lash adjusters 👍
You also can weld a nut thru the middle and unscrew it.