Thanks again for answering my silly questions, I think I'm getting a good understanding of things and what to look for. Don't remember if I used the affiliate link when I purchased so here ya go! Well deserved and I appreciate your time
@@AllThingsOnePlace I asked where those specifications are listed because I don't see them on the product nor on their website, hoping some speakers I can find are capable of PD charging since I usually don't know they are low until it's too late! (no indicator either) Cheers man
I can confirm that the Baseus 160W can pop a fuse, it did on my car when charging a Powerbank at 100w and charging two phones at the same time... stupid me...
@@AllThingsOnePlace the fuse for that circuit is actually generous (15A for a 120w output ) but I think that my battery was a bit low voltage with engine off and because as you showed, it has no low voltage cutoff, it pulled too much amps, good that fuse popped before I could damage the battery.
I got the 160w because it can charge my 65w laptop and fast charge a phone. I would rather get overkill, since perhaps someone might want to charge their 100w laptop at some point. It's a modern truck designed to feed lots of power anyway.
I've been using that Wotobeus 120W for a while now, though not at close to its max power. Now, I might consider switching to something like that Satechi 72W if it has PPS for Samsung Super Fast Charging (couldn't tell from the video if it does or not). I don't have to worry about idle consumption because my car (2019 Ford Fusion) and a lot of other modern cars have power management built into the various modules and can turn off the power to the 12V port when the car has been off for some time.
I didn't see PPS on the Satechi. Yeah, my car is older, and for some reason it doesn't relay isolate the socket when off so it just lowers the voltage through what is probably a very convoluted path to what should be a 'shutdown' level but instead makes these chargers draw even more power as they try to hold up the voltage on the output.
I think I might be crazy or something, I don't think I'll every buy too many chargers but I love your videos. I'm definitely watching them whenever they come out. They're great!
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks to your videos, I decided to purchase a CCGAN2P-M02, which based on my googling is probably just the model number for the white CCGAN100US in other markets. Thank you for your hard work!
Could you do more tests with more of these types of chargers? I'd love to see ones you find that you think would be good/decent and test them and let us know of the best ones. I don't use a car charger but that's because I just have no idea what's good and what's not. So if you make a video like this it'd be really helpful to not only myself, but to a lot of other people I imagine. :D
i have the 160w and i use it like crazy. normally being used to charge my laptop (100w) or my anker prime 27,650 (140w). my favorite part of it is that each port has its own seperate line. no more dropping two ports to 5v if they’re both in use.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceI like that the Chinese companies will let me decide for myself if my car can handle it. It'd suck to be stuck with lower wattage, just because some cars can't handle it.
I have the same adapter with heavy duty sockets. Been running continuously for years. Thing is a work horse. I've had many other adapters die in the meantime under less loads.
@@The_Ballo mine has been rock solid in texas heat under full load aswell. i regularly discharge my anker prime and recharge it fully at 140w with no issues
The puns are off the charts in this review, love it! I'll reference this guide if I'm ever gonna need a car charger over 10W. I didn't buy one because they also tend to warm up the phone quite a bit and there's no place in a car, beside the climate control vents, where a phone can stay cool.
You actually want to know why the EPR didn’t work on the wotobeus? It’s the design of 12-24v car chargers and the cigarette system - 20 volts is below 24 , but 28 is over, which is why it was tripping, even when the voltage boost is working. The whole thing wasn’t built for 28 volts at all
It doesn't even allow a 5V mode to work, it will not negotiate at all with an EPR device connected. It wasn't tripping, it never worked at all. But yeah, operating at 28V output is possible with the boost converter. They put it on the box so I'd assume they designed it to operate at this voltage but as you mention, I guess not. Too bad.
Although not easy to do, it would be very interesting to see how these "chargers" perform in an actual car with the engine running and the high beam on to make sure the alternator is "active". Can they handle the "dirty" input voltage? Or will they output "very dirty" voltage too?
Help! :) I've been struggling with a bizarre USB car charger issue in my car. I keep one permanently connected alongside an AUX cord, and a Belkin device that bonds both to a single USB-C cable for my phone. This means there's a connection between the car charger and the AUX input all the time. Recently I got all new chargers and cables with a new phone, and also changed which cigarette outlet it's connected to (my car has two). Now, I noticed that there is an audio hum over the stereo that correlates to engine RPM, but only when there's no phone connected (I assume this is a grounding issue). When I step on the gas, the AUX audio hum also increases. When a phone is connected, problem goes away. I'm trying to figure out where in the chain this problem is coming from. My first guess is my charger is contributing to this. My question - if my goal is to eliminate this audio hum, could one of these features such as voltage ripple suppression or charging modes help? I want the charger to be as electrically "quiet" as possible when not charging so as to not cause audio problems. Any advice would be appreciated!
Yeah, these chargers can potentially amplify noise passing through. none of them really had what I would call good ripple characteristics, limited space so they do what they can I guess. But yeah, a filter on the DC supply line on the way to the charger is one option. It would have to be a moderately sizable filter to take care of the low frequency noise on the line from the engine. I do see the potential of the grounding issue too. I'm not sure if one of the DC sockets has a worse connection or something? But yeah, so many paths and things to try! If you do end up figuring it out please share!
I use the same Anker A2229 charger - works fine. Only downside - not enough amps on USB-C port to charge laptop (Lenovo T470). If laptop's battery is almost flat, charger struggle's to charge it.
No reason. The UGREEN is also an excellent pick from this video. I thought about it making the video but I picked the one I've been using for two years.
Thanks man. In actually looking for one right now so the video will be useful. Also thanks for all the other videos that proved to be helpful when choosing +100W power banks and GaN chargers
Hey I found your channel very recently and I love the way you review the products and the quality of your videos. Problem is I do get very confused with all the data so imma ask you directly. What is the best charger you recommend for charging an iPhone 25, Apple Watch 7 and AirPods Pro?
Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the videos are in that middle ground of not really engineering but talk about the concepts involved in the design process of any electronics device. I have slowly been removing information from the videos and making them more general purpose although nothing seems to work, time to go back to information overload maybe. This video in particular has too little explanations and time spent on what the parameters mean, of course more carefully presenting this data this video on other channels could be an hour long or several videos. Channel is dropping like a rock for performance too so motivation is zero. For charging in you car? Something with three ports I guess. Which limits you to the Baseus or Wotobus from this video. For home charging, there are tons of options, I still recommend going oversized a bit, so 100W chargers tend to be high efficiency, good power quality (yeah that's one of those advanced topics), and have capabilities to charge something a bit larger if needed. Anker 100W Prime or Baseus 100W GaN3 desktop (120V only) are usually my go to.
@@AllThingsOnePlacethank you so much for you response! Hmmm for home charging do you recommend the regular baseus 100w charger as well? Because I am looking for a charger to take with me on the go
@@AllThingsOnePlaceyour channel/database is my goto for anything charger-related. I get it, it is not a topic that is naturally predestined for high view counts, but I have already recommended the channel to multiple people and would love to see you keep at it. Especially with new 240W USB-PD on the horizon you will have some very interesting chargers ahead of you and many people looking for information.
A small bit of feedback: since you mention the idle power quite a bit, and that seems like a relevant metric for these, it might have been good to show those numbers with the individual cards, or show the graph with all of them earlier. I only own a low-power USB-A type charger for my car, but now you have me wondering what the idle power is.
Thanks! Yeah, I agree, I time crunched and pushed it out, already 4 days later than planned and made a few errors in the graphics. Entirely forgot to talk about one of the chargers... But yeah, I was surprised on some of these. It's a good improvement for the next round and thanks for the tip!
Could you elaborate a bit more on what is wrong with 30W Belkin? I’ve had it for a while but your review suggests it’s a subpar product. Great video as always!
Yeah, the issue was the low turn off voltage, like far too low, for a hobbyist it's actually a benefit... The socket issues, the extremely high idle power usage and the lack of shutdown at lower voltages for a car charger are the reasons. The efficiency at full power is actually good but you need to make sure it fully disconnects when you aren't using it.
Hello, you mentioned a teardown of the Belkin CCA004, I was wondering where can I find the video? It seemed out of context when you mentioned it in your video, I was a little lost lol
As long as it is within reason the power supply should be able to handle it. In most cases phones are reducing the incoming voltage so as long as the voltage doesn't fall below that point or exceed maximum ratings I don't expect there to be a problem. This would be some crazy unstable power supply though.
I've been using the 160 watt Baseus for at least a year now. It pulls device charging duty including running\charging my Dell Precision laptop. Never an issue even in the Arizona summer however I've never maxed it out. I'd estimate 120 watts continuous without complaint
@@AllThingsOnePlace one thing i should have noted is its on a socket connected to a LiFePO4 setup which can handle much more current than the typical 10 amp dash socket and the voltage doesnt droop
I did this one to myself, I already opened it before camera (everything is fake in video), then when I closed it the stickers that hold it closed got stuck inside the box.
At our summer cabin we only have a solar panel with a 12V system. As we stay there every year for 5 weeks i need to do some remote work and thus need to charge my 16“ macbook pro with a m3max. As we have the ports for car adapters in our 12v system it would be good if there was a carpoweradapter to charge my macbook as a powerconverter to 240v ac and using the normal wallpower adapter is really inefficient. What reasonable higher power but safe adapter would you suggest? (Im not sure atm but i belive it is fused with 20A. So there should be enough power)
Yeah, that's a tough one. There are many pure sine wave inverters though, so that with a normal power adapter is one option, yeah, you will lose efficiency converting multiple times but it will be more convenient, plug and play at least. With 20 amps should able to go up to 150 watts for the inverter size without issues.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yeah we have a pure sine wave inverter. Just the loss isn’t great so if there was a 12v to usb c adapter thats save and powerful we would switch as power is very limited.
Hello ATOP (do people call you that?), I have a question for you. If I use a 4-port GaN charger to power, say, a Chromecast and a travel router, will these devices lose power when I hook up something like a Steam Deck to charge and the adapter recalculates how much power goes where? I'd love to bring a multiport GaN charger for travel but I don't only want to charge stuff, I want to constantly power some devices as well. Thank you!
I got all numbers. No idea what people call me, troublemaker mostly. Yes, with most adapters, you'd lose power with plug and unplug of additional devices. It's the way it is. You could use two chargers, a low wattage dual port one for the router and chrome cast? But yeah, there should be some additional market options.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceHmm, I'll have to be on the lookout for a dual port brick that'll power both these units then, and buy a fancy shmancy GaN unit for everything else. Thanks!
After a few years of no-name ones, I've changed to a Samsung "car" charger and never looked back since. 2 ports but the main differemce from the other ones is that it is stable. Changed 3 or 4 cars but kept the charger.
The socket should survive at least, I actually like the old metal sockets. But the adapter itself can still melt and deform, on the cheaper side of things.
Kind of... I don't have a transient tester or a surge tester. They usually need to be able to supply huge pulses of very fast energy. I can only really test them for electrical isolation, ground bonding, and sinusoidal trip voltage for protection circuits. More than I've seen anyone else do on youtube but yeah, eventually, yeah, it's not a glamorous topic but it's interesting nonetheless.
Hey I’m new here and binged a ton of videos already. I’ve bought my fair share of cheap chargers and paid for it. I do have a request, would a “flat” charger comparison be worth doing? The ones they advertise being able to push furniture against?
Which one to buy,so i can get blue animation when plug in Samsung to charge Not green "fast charging" but blue one like when i plug in home 25W pd. Thnx
It is interesting that some have had great luck with it and others, well you know. The connection point to the vehicle is a very small contact pad and therefore that area will get very hot. I have had entire connectors melt from this contact patch being not the greatest. Then on top of the efficiency you will be generating heat internally as well, put those two together and it will melt.
One thing I'd like to know is which of these support 12/24V and which ones are 12V only; this information is notoriously difficult to find in the listings, and I usually have to resort to just buying one and either carefully inspecting the device/manual or just plugging it in and hope it doesn't blow up. I _think_ you imply everything here except for your old 5W unit can work on 24V based on the graphs, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm surprised none of these seem to have low-voltage cut-off; all the ones I've bought and tested seem to turn off their outputs below something around 9V or so.
I know I run by it quickly, but these newer ones all worked on both 12 and 24 volt. But yeah, you are correct, that everything except the old 5W unit is 24V compatible. Yeah, some of these run down to less than 3 volts, I guess whatever chip they shove in they go with the defaults and send it.
was looking at boost converters to try and wire into my diy 12v/24v 4s/8s lifepo4 battery packs to use around the house/in the car. found some cheap higher wattage models meant for using w/ LED light, but the voltage range wasnt very usable and they were all large units with heat sinks, then i remembered these things existed. the boards inside are really slim in some models. think i might make a power bank out of ~32ah lifepo4 cells and use these for the output. need something close to ~14.6v to handle charging but i think ill just end up using an mppt solar charge controller. dc is dc and those charge controllers work fine with any dc source., and the cheaper mppt ones still have the ability to step up voltage with preset lifepo4 4s/8s settings. EASUN power (generic epever) makes a 20a mppt that they sell for only ~20$. could just change the input leads from solar wires to an xd60 and attach a 15v or 20v pd trigger board and charge my ammo can packs up that way from a gan usb-c wall charger, or use a solar panel. still not using bms boards. active/inductive balancers with a 12v thermostat/15w heating pad works fine and is probably safer given most lifepo4 battery issues are because of junk bms boards
Great review. I've had 2 ugreen 130W "car chargers" die on me. I use them with my usb c dewalt charger. They don't make a great connection in my 06 Silverado's power outlet and the 12v pin gets hot. The plastic melts around the pin and it gets stuck so It can't make any connection at all. And, of course the thing is glued together so you can't fix it.
Hi! I had one question. I recently bought a new phone, Nothing 2a, their website doesn't ship the official charger to my location but they recommend using any branded charger which has "PPS protocol supported" After doing some digging I came across a few recommendations as follows: 1. Samsung 25W. (leaning more towards it as it is relatively cheaper) 2. Ugreen 20 or 30W Nexode (unsure of their reliability) I don't mind charging my phone a little slower if that will prevent it from overheating, battery life matters more me to for the long haul.
I'm looking for a car charger with three usb-c PD ports (1/family member). I did see Lisen 101W and URVNS 240W on Amazon, but that 240W scares me temperature and battery draw wise. I don't see a single safety listing. Any advice?
Yeah, 240W for a car charger... no. haha 100 watts is pushing it even but hopefully will work. Yeah, it isn't really a product category they worry about for a safety listing because it doesn't interact with the mains. Basically, does it get hot and melt, and have automotive qualifications, these would be a lot more expensive.
I would really like to use one of these PD 3.1 car chargers with my cordless soldering gun (TS101 / Pinecil V2), either of these two soldering guns are capable of drawing 28V/5A or 96W out of a charger, the only reason I haven't bought one is, I am doubtful that a car charger can handle 28V /5A for very long,
Yeah, they will struggle with the power level if it's continuous, soldering irons are usually pulsed though so might work fine but I haven't found one that actually does the EPR mode though for a car charger specifically.
@@AllThingsOnePlace You are right, I havn't find one with EPR mode either, the best regular PD 3.1 charger that has worked with my two soldering guns is the UGREEN model CD289, I have two of them, both can supply 28V, and over 4A continously, and never get hot.
My baseus 160w just melted. I'm coming back to this review to get some ideas about what to do. Now i see it is inefficient and must dissipate 13w. It was hot i was running my laptop. But there is no better choice. I'll split the power over several chargers.
I have a 2011 Toyota Tacoma and it says that its a 12v 120w power outlet so am I safe to grab any car charger under 120W I was thinking about 100 so I could charge my laptop if I needed to, but I don't want to blow a fuse. It's a 16" Macbook Pro so if I have to get a power bank instead to be safe I am fine doing that. Thanks again, your videos are so informative I'm doing my best to learn.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks! I got a response about my JBL Clip 4 speaker from a tech and they said that the voltage on the ugreen 30w (B09DSV9G78) could damage the device and they recommended the 5v 2a instead. I'm not sure I understand why the voltage would be a factor when the device should only pull a certain amount of watts? Any clarity should be appreciated, thanks!
Ok I did a little reading and it seems like voltage matching is very important so I probably shouldn't use that car charger for my device, which sucks. Still not sure why though
Last question I swear @@AllThingsOnePlace! I'm probably misunderstanding but why do they sell car chargers with input voltage at 24v (ugreen cd130) when most car outlets are only 12v? Am I safe to use the cd130 on my 12V outlet in my car?
@@danieldestefano7053 The car chargers are often rated with a range of 12 - 24. They will work over this range without any issues. Some can boost the voltage, some can only reduce the voltage or buck, so depending on the design it may not be able to generate 20 volts for example from 12 volts if it can only reduce voltage.
Pick the one that has the charging mode that is compatible with your device. Then look at efficiency and maybe cost on the all things website -- car adapters.
Just measured idle power of mine 3 car adapters. Very important as my battery discharges quick. The ones that came with 70mai dash cams, with a constant 12.24V: 1 port 1.43 mA 0.0175W 2 port 2.55 mA 0.03W Aukey from Microcenter with USB-A and C ports: 13.62 mA 0.167W Ouch. Aukey will not be used in the car anymore. (Used Fluke 87 to measure)
Can you please test the new ikea usb c chargers, both 30w and the 45w one. They seem pretty cheap for what they provide but im concerned about their quality. I think their model name is "Sjöss" Thanks!
I've tried the Wotobeus, an unbranded Wotobeus lookalike, the Baseus and a Ugreen to charge my laptop in my car. My laptop can charge over USB-C at up to 140w but even the chargers that claimed 140w on a single port or more only delivered 100w max. They all get disconcertingly hot, especially the Ugreen which got hot enough to where I could melt through a McDonald's cup with the positive pin. I just bit the bullet and got a power station.
Yeah, I didn't talk about it in the video, it didn't make the cut, but yeah, cramming 10 amps through a pin that has a contact area the size of a needle doesn't work out in most cases.
Excellent review, makes me worry about these car chargers. If do another round up of car chargers can you test the "UGREEN 130W USB C" its Item model number is "90889". Since its from a known brand i hope the idle power draw is reasonable but these 100watt + devices seem to all be bad. Thanks again for your time and knowledge.
I think there are some interesting 12V USB chargers in the van dwelling, or RV, circles. I think I wound up with one of the CoolGear ChargeIt models. And ran 2 wires to the battery or some 12v hot point inside the car. I'm not sure about the pros/cons for everyone - I assume if someone is here watching this, they're willing to watch a yt video about how to install one, and spend an hour running the wires. IMO, I figure I'm going to be charging stuff in my car for the rest of my life. I may as well have the convenience of a permanent power port, and whatever fast charging I could need. It's kind of nice having the option to throw a laptop or phone under a car seat, and leave it charging while you go into a store or something. And depending on the car, maybe it's nicer to have it located in a glovebox, footwell, under a seat, etc. Sometimes cigarette sockets are not conveniently located. And my old one had bad contacts, so sometimes it'd wiggle itself loose. I don't know what you'd search for if you want one - probably something like 'laptop rv/van charger', or 'hardwired 12v usb charger', or add pps, 60w, etc.
You've had better luck with Anker products than I... Mine keep dying prematurely... I recently got a Baseus FM transmitter+charger... It does ok... I also have a 100w capable one that does poorly when the car starts (can't do super fast charge on samsung) but a re-plug will allow for negotiating fast power... I have an older anker that advertises 45w, but I suspect that is combined. No 1 port goes over 18w despite having 4 ports... this is fine for road trips, but not for fast charging anything or charging my laptop...
Yeah, of course the person that reviews them always has the best luck... Ah yeah, that's not great that a replug is required. I can't remember the last time I unplugged the cable from the charger in the socket in my car. Probably two years ago when I made the last video, ha. Anyway, thanks for sharing!
i have the Basus and now I know to only charge one phone at a time and not leave it plugged in all the time. thankfully my car cuts power to the outlet when the car is off.
Yeah, my car 'cuts' power to the socket but it really just reduces the voltage, it's not the best design. Newer cars tend to isolate the socket all the way so that's good.
Nice! My friend desperately needs one of these. I keep telling her, "you can charge your car through your cigarette lighter!" it keeps giving you motion, perpetually...
@@AllThingsOnePlace that final line lay down so nicely, i had to ask her... "Who's your car charger?" Whats worse, car charger or solar generator? Definitely solar generator. Its just the worst ever...
Do you know the max voltage the 165 watt charger can handle? I was planning to use it to build a power bank to power my laptop, but I don't know the max voltage it could handle. My cells are 3.6v nominal and 4.2v max, and a 8s configuration would be perfect for the inverter I was planning to pair with it. But, that would put it at 33.6V max voltage, and I'm not sure if it could handle it? I know a fully charged 24v sealed lead acid battery is 25.77 volts, but that would limit me to a voltage range of 18v to 25.2v for a 6s li-ion battery pack.
Yeah, I didn't test over voltage as that's usually a one time test and the product fails permanently after that. I would expect two times nominal car battery voltage though so 28.8V, the converters are likely 30V tolerant, the question is how cheap did they go on the input capacitance voltage. Hopefully, at least 30V rated.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Just did some tests and it seems like it tolerates a max of about 30V. Nothing abnormal with a brief test with 7 batteries at 29.2V. With 8 batteries at 33.3V, I did not see any output from the USB-A port. It might have over-voltage protection set at 30V, because it continues to work after lowering the voltage back down.
3:52 - Just as a very minor thing-I believe that the pronunciation of “Scosche” rhymes with “gauche.” (If it may be of interest, here’s a video from the company where they say their own name: ruclips.net/video/zJCqomWio3Q/видео.html )
You deserve more views! As gross as it is, maybe start making click baity titles? "Top 10 Amazon car chargers tested" or something of the like. I see a lot of people with lower quality videos raking in the views with dumb titles like that and matching thumbnails.
Yeah, I do need to up my thumbnail and title game. I have seen videos that are straight up bad get 10000 views in a day for channels of similar size and I get 1000 typically. In general my channel has grown linearly from inception, very much unlike youtube's typical growth statistics. I mean it's R value of 0.999 for linear growth of subscribers. In terms of views it's actually getting smaller. Which kind of dampens my want to make more videos. I don't even have anything on the schedule.
Are they super capacitor? Just learning 😊 got a dash cam with a capacitor fitted and has only one port. My previous Samsung fast charger with double usb port but wont charge my azdome m550 pro dash properly. Need a usb cigarette charger that charges my dash and phone on the go. Looking at ugreen 130W need help if this would work?
So I purchased the worst xD. Anyway I do not intend to use it often, maybe close to once per year and for phone (it was more a purchase to reach a voucher thresold). I will never be confident enough to use it at high wattage. :)
i wonder why do people even bothered to get these when power banks is essential to most of us ( or atleast iphone users) simply cant justify in my brain
Man I wish you could review literally everything I want to spend money on. Your videos are concentrated wisdom.
haha, I try to get as many out as I can but yeah there's so much.
I couldn't agree more !!!
Thanks again for answering my silly questions, I think I'm getting a good understanding of things and what to look for. Don't remember if I used the affiliate link when I purchased so here ya go! Well deserved and I appreciate your time
haha, well thanks again for helping the channel! Also, it's an interesting one. I'm always curious what manufactures tell people.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I asked where those specifications are listed because I don't see them on the product nor on their website, hoping some speakers I can find are capable of PD charging since I usually don't know they are low until it's too late! (no indicator either) Cheers man
I can confirm that the Baseus 160W can pop a fuse, it did on my car when charging a Powerbank at 100w and charging two phones at the same time... stupid me...
I got the 100w because I had the fear that this could occur
@@Polo4413 after that, I don't use the 3 ports at the same time... Almost a year after the "event" and no issues
Thanks for sharing! Yeah, it is impressive how much they can do but yeah no regard for safety limits.
@@AllThingsOnePlace the fuse for that circuit is actually generous (15A for a 120w output ) but I think that my battery was a bit low voltage with engine off and because as you showed, it has no low voltage cutoff, it pulled too much amps, good that fuse popped before I could damage the battery.
I got the 160w because it can charge my 65w laptop and fast charge a phone. I would rather get overkill, since perhaps someone might want to charge their 100w laptop at some point. It's a modern truck designed to feed lots of power anyway.
I've been using that Wotobeus 120W for a while now, though not at close to its max power. Now, I might consider switching to something like that Satechi 72W if it has PPS for Samsung Super Fast Charging (couldn't tell from the video if it does or not).
I don't have to worry about idle consumption because my car (2019 Ford Fusion) and a lot of other modern cars have power management built into the various modules and can turn off the power to the 12V port when the car has been off for some time.
I didn't see PPS on the Satechi. Yeah, my car is older, and for some reason it doesn't relay isolate the socket when off so it just lowers the voltage through what is probably a very convoluted path to what should be a 'shutdown' level but instead makes these chargers draw even more power as they try to hold up the voltage on the output.
I think I might be crazy or something, I don't think I'll every buy too many chargers but I love your videos. I'm definitely watching them whenever they come out. They're great!
Thanks!
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks to your videos, I decided to purchase a CCGAN2P-M02, which based on my googling is probably just the model number for the white CCGAN100US in other markets. Thank you for your hard work!
@@AllThingsOnePlace
Pls can you review Betatek BT-300?
Thanks.
Could you do more tests with more of these types of chargers? I'd love to see ones you find that you think would be good/decent and test them and let us know of the best ones. I don't use a car charger but that's because I just have no idea what's good and what's not. So if you make a video like this it'd be really helpful to not only myself, but to a lot of other people I imagine. :D
hah, yeah, it took me two years to get this one out. I do need to bump these out more frequently.
i have the 160w and i use it like crazy. normally being used to charge my laptop (100w) or my anker prime 27,650 (140w). my favorite part of it is that each port has its own seperate line. no more dropping two ports to 5v if they’re both in use.
Wow, you must have a very good 12V socket. I melted one already.
@@AllThingsOnePlace GM sockets are tough.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceI like that the Chinese companies will let me decide for myself if my car can handle it. It'd suck to be stuck with lower wattage, just because some cars can't handle it.
I have the same adapter with heavy duty sockets. Been running continuously for years. Thing is a work horse. I've had many other adapters die in the meantime under less loads.
@@The_Ballo mine has been rock solid in texas heat under full load aswell. i regularly discharge my anker prime and recharge it fully at 140w with no issues
Why would you want to call your company Woe to be us? 🤷♂
Hah nice.
underrated comment
The puns are off the charts in this review, love it! I'll reference this guide if I'm ever gonna need a car charger over 10W. I didn't buy one because they also tend to warm up the phone quite a bit and there's no place in a car, beside the climate control vents, where a phone can stay cool.
Thanks! Only took me two years to get it done.
You actually want to know why the EPR didn’t work on the wotobeus? It’s the design of 12-24v car chargers and the cigarette system - 20 volts is below 24 , but 28 is over, which is why it was tripping, even when the voltage boost is working. The whole thing wasn’t built for 28 volts at all
It doesn't even allow a 5V mode to work, it will not negotiate at all with an EPR device connected. It wasn't tripping, it never worked at all. But yeah, operating at 28V output is possible with the boost converter. They put it on the box so I'd assume they designed it to operate at this voltage but as you mention, I guess not. Too bad.
Although not easy to do, it would be very interesting to see how these "chargers" perform in an actual car with the engine running and the high beam on to make sure the alternator is "active". Can they handle the "dirty" input voltage? Or will they output "very dirty" voltage too?
Help! :) I've been struggling with a bizarre USB car charger issue in my car. I keep one permanently connected alongside an AUX cord, and a Belkin device that bonds both to a single USB-C cable for my phone. This means there's a connection between the car charger and the AUX input all the time. Recently I got all new chargers and cables with a new phone, and also changed which cigarette outlet it's connected to (my car has two). Now, I noticed that there is an audio hum over the stereo that correlates to engine RPM, but only when there's no phone connected (I assume this is a grounding issue). When I step on the gas, the AUX audio hum also increases. When a phone is connected, problem goes away. I'm trying to figure out where in the chain this problem is coming from. My first guess is my charger is contributing to this. My question - if my goal is to eliminate this audio hum, could one of these features such as voltage ripple suppression or charging modes help? I want the charger to be as electrically "quiet" as possible when not charging so as to not cause audio problems. Any advice would be appreciated!
Yeah, these chargers can potentially amplify noise passing through. none of them really had what I would call good ripple characteristics, limited space so they do what they can I guess. But yeah, a filter on the DC supply line on the way to the charger is one option. It would have to be a moderately sizable filter to take care of the low frequency noise on the line from the engine. I do see the potential of the grounding issue too. I'm not sure if one of the DC sockets has a worse connection or something? But yeah, so many paths and things to try! If you do end up figuring it out please share!
@AllThingsOnePlace, can you review the new Anker USB-C Car Charger, 167.5W Max (B2737)
Wow that’s a big one. Good for round 3 of usb car chargers.
I use the same Anker A2229 charger - works fine. Only downside - not enough amps on USB-C port to charge laptop (Lenovo T470). If laptop's battery is almost flat, charger struggle's to charge it.
mmm yeah, it isn't the largest out there for sure.
The UGREEN charger seemed to be a stand out based on the data but you didn't really mention it much. What's the reason for that?
No reason. The UGREEN is also an excellent pick from this video. I thought about it making the video but I picked the one I've been using for two years.
As always great video! I have the Baseus 100w. It gets warm, but so far it works
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man. In actually looking for one right now so the video will be useful.
Also thanks for all the other videos that proved to be helpful when choosing +100W power banks and GaN chargers
Thanks for watching!
Hey I found your channel very recently and I love the way you review the products and the quality of your videos. Problem is I do get very confused with all the data so imma ask you directly. What is the best charger you recommend for charging an iPhone 25, Apple Watch 7 and AirPods Pro?
Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the videos are in that middle ground of not really engineering but talk about the concepts involved in the design process of any electronics device. I have slowly been removing information from the videos and making them more general purpose although nothing seems to work, time to go back to information overload maybe. This video in particular has too little explanations and time spent on what the parameters mean, of course more carefully presenting this data this video on other channels could be an hour long or several videos. Channel is dropping like a rock for performance too so motivation is zero.
For charging in you car? Something with three ports I guess. Which limits you to the Baseus or Wotobus from this video. For home charging, there are tons of options, I still recommend going oversized a bit, so 100W chargers tend to be high efficiency, good power quality (yeah that's one of those advanced topics), and have capabilities to charge something a bit larger if needed. Anker 100W Prime or Baseus 100W GaN3 desktop (120V only) are usually my go to.
@@AllThingsOnePlacethank you so much for you response! Hmmm for home charging do you recommend the regular baseus 100w charger as well? Because I am looking for a charger to take with me on the go
@@AllThingsOnePlaceyour channel/database is my goto for anything charger-related. I get it, it is not a topic that is naturally predestined for high view counts, but I have already recommended the channel to multiple people and would love to see you keep at it.
Especially with new 240W USB-PD on the horizon you will have some very interesting chargers ahead of you and many people looking for information.
Crazy I was just trying to find a new car charger! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
A small bit of feedback: since you mention the idle power quite a bit, and that seems like a relevant metric for these, it might have been good to show those numbers with the individual cards, or show the graph with all of them earlier. I only own a low-power USB-A type charger for my car, but now you have me wondering what the idle power is.
Thanks! Yeah, I agree, I time crunched and pushed it out, already 4 days later than planned and made a few errors in the graphics. Entirely forgot to talk about one of the chargers... But yeah, I was surprised on some of these. It's a good improvement for the next round and thanks for the tip!
Could you elaborate a bit more on what is wrong with 30W Belkin? I’ve had it for a while but your review suggests it’s a subpar product. Great video as always!
Yeah, the issue was the low turn off voltage, like far too low, for a hobbyist it's actually a benefit... The socket issues, the extremely high idle power usage and the lack of shutdown at lower voltages for a car charger are the reasons. The efficiency at full power is actually good but you need to make sure it fully disconnects when you aren't using it.
thanks, much appreciate your reply!@@AllThingsOnePlace
Hello, you mentioned a teardown of the Belkin CCA004, I was wondering where can I find the video? It seemed out of context when you mentioned it in your video, I was a little lost lol
haha, yeah, I did it, shot it, never did anything else with it. I need to finish that.
Any thoughts on the Anker USB-C 535? Seems like a promising product aiming at the realistic 65W output.
Thanks, yeah, I'll have to get that one into the next round.
Do mobile phones care about ripple voltage that much? is it really much of a concern?
As long as it is within reason the power supply should be able to handle it. In most cases phones are reducing the incoming voltage so as long as the voltage doesn't fall below that point or exceed maximum ratings I don't expect there to be a problem. This would be some crazy unstable power supply though.
I've been using the 160 watt Baseus for at least a year now. It pulls device charging duty including running\charging my Dell Precision laptop. Never an issue even in the Arizona summer however I've never maxed it out. I'd estimate 120 watts continuous without complaint
Wow. Nice.
@@AllThingsOnePlace one thing i should have noted is its on a socket connected to a LiFePO4 setup which can handle much more current than the typical 10 amp dash socket and the voltage doesnt droop
I am here for the unboxing struggle and I got it, thx :)
I did this one to myself, I already opened it before camera (everything is fake in video), then when I closed it the stickers that hold it closed got stuck inside the box.
amazing, seeing as though the powerdrive 2+ is no longer available, what would you suggest instead ? thanks!
I'd look at the allthings website and pick the one that has the watts you need and the highest efficiency.
So what did you end up buying? I have no idea what model succeded Anker A2229
At our summer cabin we only have a solar panel with a 12V system. As we stay there every year for 5 weeks i need to do some remote work and thus need to charge my 16“ macbook pro with a m3max. As we have the ports for car adapters in our 12v system it would be good if there was a carpoweradapter to charge my macbook as a powerconverter to 240v ac and using the normal wallpower adapter is really inefficient. What reasonable higher power but safe adapter would you suggest?
(Im not sure atm but i belive it is fused with 20A. So there should be enough power)
Yeah, that's a tough one. There are many pure sine wave inverters though, so that with a normal power adapter is one option, yeah, you will lose efficiency converting multiple times but it will be more convenient, plug and play at least. With 20 amps should able to go up to 150 watts for the inverter size without issues.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yeah we have a pure sine wave inverter. Just the loss isn’t great so if there was a 12v to usb c adapter thats save and powerful we would switch as power is very limited.
Hello ATOP (do people call you that?), I have a question for you. If I use a 4-port GaN charger to power, say, a Chromecast and a travel router, will these devices lose power when I hook up something like a Steam Deck to charge and the adapter recalculates how much power goes where? I'd love to bring a multiport GaN charger for travel but I don't only want to charge stuff, I want to constantly power some devices as well. Thank you!
I got all numbers. No idea what people call me, troublemaker mostly. Yes, with most adapters, you'd lose power with plug and unplug of additional devices. It's the way it is. You could use two chargers, a low wattage dual port one for the router and chrome cast? But yeah, there should be some additional market options.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceHmm, I'll have to be on the lookout for a dual port brick that'll power both these units then, and buy a fancy shmancy GaN unit for everything else. Thanks!
After a few years of no-name ones, I've changed to a Samsung "car" charger and never looked back since. 2 ports but the main differemce from the other ones is that it is stable. Changed 3 or 4 cars but kept the charger.
Yeah, I need to get that one.
Isn't the heat output less of (or not) an issue in a 12 V socket rated for use with a coil cigar lighter?
The socket should survive at least, I actually like the old metal sockets. But the adapter itself can still melt and deform, on the cheaper side of things.
Dang, that was way too much fun for a LM2596. even without a joke on shape.
I had to have some fun with it.
So which would you go with with 2 usb c ports reasonably priced i have bottom of the barrel android phone with only regular fast charging
Yeah, I think nearly all of these will meet the bill for that.
Can you test surge protectors, like the 6-8 outlet ones?
Kind of... I don't have a transient tester or a surge tester. They usually need to be able to supply huge pulses of very fast energy. I can only really test them for electrical isolation, ground bonding, and sinusoidal trip voltage for protection circuits. More than I've seen anyone else do on youtube but yeah, eventually, yeah, it's not a glamorous topic but it's interesting nonetheless.
Hey I’m new here and binged a ton of videos already. I’ve bought my fair share of cheap chargers and paid for it. I do have a request, would a “flat” charger comparison be worth doing? The ones they advertise being able to push furniture against?
ruclips.net/video/gxQ8uWRhss0/видео.html like this? They're all basically a little worse performance wise.
Which one to buy,so i can get blue animation when plug in Samsung to charge Not green "fast charging" but blue one like when i plug in home 25W pd. Thnx
There's a lot to choose from, pick one with PPS.
My baseus 160w just melted. I'm coming back to this review to get some ideas about what to do.
It is interesting that some have had great luck with it and others, well you know. The connection point to the vehicle is a very small contact pad and therefore that area will get very hot. I have had entire connectors melt from this contact patch being not the greatest. Then on top of the efficiency you will be generating heat internally as well, put those two together and it will melt.
One thing I'd like to know is which of these support 12/24V and which ones are 12V only; this information is notoriously difficult to find in the listings, and I usually have to resort to just buying one and either carefully inspecting the device/manual or just plugging it in and hope it doesn't blow up.
I _think_ you imply everything here except for your old 5W unit can work on 24V based on the graphs, but I'm not 100% sure.
I'm surprised none of these seem to have low-voltage cut-off; all the ones I've bought and tested seem to turn off their outputs below something around 9V or so.
I know I run by it quickly, but these newer ones all worked on both 12 and 24 volt. But yeah, you are correct, that everything except the old 5W unit is 24V compatible.
Yeah, some of these run down to less than 3 volts, I guess whatever chip they shove in they go with the defaults and send it.
was looking at boost converters to try and wire into my diy 12v/24v 4s/8s lifepo4 battery packs to use around the house/in the car. found some cheap higher wattage models meant for using w/ LED light, but the voltage range wasnt very usable and they were all large units with heat sinks, then i remembered these things existed. the boards inside are really slim in some models. think i might make a power bank out of ~32ah lifepo4 cells and use these for the output. need something close to ~14.6v to handle charging but i think ill just end up using an mppt solar charge controller. dc is dc and those charge controllers work fine with any dc source., and the cheaper mppt ones still have the ability to step up voltage with preset lifepo4 4s/8s settings. EASUN power (generic epever) makes a 20a mppt that they sell for only ~20$. could just change the input leads from solar wires to an xd60 and attach a 15v or 20v pd trigger board and charge my ammo can packs up that way from a gan usb-c wall charger, or use a solar panel. still not using bms boards. active/inductive balancers with a 12v thermostat/15w heating pad works fine and is probably safer given most lifepo4 battery issues are because of junk bms boards
that's a lot. and yeah, these little converters aren't a bad place to salvage some converters. anyway, be safe with all those batteries.
Could you do a test on all PPS "car" Chargers?
All, no, I think that's impossible. I do mention which of the reviewed ones have PPS though.
Another great content and video! Thanks a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have the Baseus for nearly 2 years, it has not given me issues.
Good to hear.
The ANKER A2229 is not available anywhere. What would you recommend I get instead?
CCB002 or CCA003 from Belkin seem like reasonable options for phone and small device charging.
Great review. I've had 2 ugreen 130W "car chargers" die on me. I use them with my usb c dewalt charger. They don't make a great connection in my 06 Silverado's power outlet and the 12v pin gets hot. The plastic melts around the pin and it gets stuck so It can't make any connection at all.
And, of course the thing is glued together so you can't fix it.
mmm, yeah, I am amazed they haven't just replaced this connector by now.
Hi! I had one question. I recently bought a new phone, Nothing 2a, their website doesn't ship the official charger to my location but they recommend using any branded charger which has "PPS protocol supported"
After doing some digging I came across a few recommendations as follows:
1. Samsung 25W. (leaning more towards it as it is relatively cheaper)
2. Ugreen 20 or 30W Nexode (unsure of their reliability)
I don't mind charging my phone a little slower if that will prevent it from overheating, battery life matters more me to for the long haul.
The UGREEN Nexode 30w is a decent choice. It was one of the few that I found okay from the latest UGREEN round up. Price is also right.
@@AllThingsOnePlace thank you for answering!!
I choked on my lunch when you said "the harm done is mostly a flat battery or a small car fire"
Ow, hopefully you are okay.
I'm looking for a car charger with three usb-c PD ports (1/family member). I did see Lisen 101W and URVNS 240W on Amazon, but that 240W scares me temperature and battery draw wise. I don't see a single safety listing. Any advice?
Yeah, 240W for a car charger... no. haha 100 watts is pushing it even but hopefully will work. Yeah, it isn't really a product category they worry about for a safety listing because it doesn't interact with the mains. Basically, does it get hot and melt, and have automotive qualifications, these would be a lot more expensive.
So the best is the Aniker ?
It’s very good.
I would really like to use one of these PD 3.1 car chargers with my cordless soldering gun (TS101 / Pinecil V2), either of these two soldering guns are capable of drawing 28V/5A or 96W out of a charger, the only reason I haven't bought one is, I am doubtful that a car charger can handle 28V /5A for very long,
Yeah, they will struggle with the power level if it's continuous, soldering irons are usually pulsed though so might work fine but I haven't found one that actually does the EPR mode though for a car charger specifically.
@@AllThingsOnePlace You are right, I havn't find one with EPR mode either, the best regular PD 3.1 charger that has worked with my two soldering guns is the UGREEN model CD289, I have two of them, both can supply 28V, and over 4A continously, and never get hot.
My baseus 160w just melted. I'm coming back to this review to get some ideas about what to do.
Now i see it is inefficient and must dissipate 13w. It was hot i was running my laptop.
But there is no better choice. I'll split the power over several chargers.
Yes, splitting over several adapters is a good idea.
Have you ever tried Novoo chargers? I got a 120w for cheap (4000 yen) and it's working well, but I was curious how good it actually is
Not yet, but I'll probably be at a yodobashi soon enough to see what's available.
I have a 2011 Toyota Tacoma and it says that its a 12v 120w power outlet so am I safe to grab any car charger under 120W I was thinking about 100 so I could charge my laptop if I needed to, but I don't want to blow a fuse. It's a 16" Macbook Pro so if I have to get a power bank instead to be safe I am fine doing that. Thanks again, your videos are so informative I'm doing my best to learn.
If it's rated for that power level, then a 100W charger should be fine.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks! I got a response about my JBL Clip 4 speaker from a tech and they said that the voltage on the ugreen 30w (B09DSV9G78) could damage the device and they recommended the 5v 2a instead. I'm not sure I understand why the voltage would be a factor when the device should only pull a certain amount of watts? Any clarity should be appreciated, thanks!
Ok I did a little reading and it seems like voltage matching is very important so I probably shouldn't use that car charger for my device, which sucks. Still not sure why though
Last question I swear @@AllThingsOnePlace! I'm probably misunderstanding but why do they sell car chargers with input voltage at 24v (ugreen cd130) when most car outlets are only 12v? Am I safe to use the cd130 on my 12V outlet in my car?
@@danieldestefano7053 The car chargers are often rated with a range of 12 - 24. They will work over this range without any issues. Some can boost the voltage, some can only reduce the voltage or buck, so depending on the design it may not be able to generate 20 volts for example from 12 volts if it can only reduce voltage.
Thank you. Informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
What’s your best option for overall pick
I'm still using the Anker one. It has lasted forever in the punishing cold and heat and always works.
Please review Baseus 65w dual in next one
I added it to the list.
@@AllThingsOnePlace thanks
Please do the sharge 170 review!! Its shargeeks no power bank rebranded
It's on the list.
Any car charger with 2C1A that's like 65W~100W, not something crazy like 160W?
I'll look around.
I have had really good luck with Ainope.
Thanks!
So which one would you recommend just so our mobiles charge quicker?
Pick the one that has the charging mode that is compatible with your device. Then look at efficiency and maybe cost on the all things website -- car adapters.
I like to use these chargers for charging drones such as the DJI avata. I think it may pull around 45-60w
That makes sense, not too much power but more than a basic charger.
Just measured idle power of mine 3 car adapters. Very important as my battery discharges quick. The ones that came with 70mai dash cams, with a constant 12.24V:
1 port 1.43 mA 0.0175W
2 port 2.55 mA 0.03W
Aukey from Microcenter with USB-A and C ports:
13.62 mA 0.167W
Ouch. Aukey will not be used in the car anymore.
(Used Fluke 87 to measure)
I checked my car's user manual (2006 BMW), it's rated at 200 W on the 12 V sockets. Not bat at all.
Nice. Yeah, that's more than most.
Can you please test the new ikea usb c chargers, both 30w and the 45w one. They seem pretty cheap for what they provide but im concerned about their quality. I think their model name is "Sjöss" Thanks!
Thanks! I added them to list.
the original 45 watt Samsung charger. Will it be better than them?
Not sure.
Can you test powerbank ZMI CUKTECH p23?
Eventually, yes.
I've tried the Wotobeus, an unbranded Wotobeus lookalike, the Baseus and a Ugreen to charge my laptop in my car. My laptop can charge over USB-C at up to 140w but even the chargers that claimed 140w on a single port or more only delivered 100w max. They all get disconcertingly hot, especially the Ugreen which got hot enough to where I could melt through a McDonald's cup with the positive pin. I just bit the bullet and got a power station.
Yeah, I didn't talk about it in the video, it didn't make the cut, but yeah, cramming 10 amps through a pin that has a contact area the size of a needle doesn't work out in most cases.
Omg was looking for this!
Only took two years to get a second one done.
Excellent review, makes me worry about these car chargers. If do another round up of car chargers can you test the "UGREEN 130W USB C" its Item model number is "90889". Since its from a known brand i hope the idle power draw is reasonable but these 100watt + devices seem to all be bad. Thanks again for your time and knowledge.
Thanks for the suggestion.
If you could please test the Anker QI 2 MagGo Magnetic Charging Station that would be great.
I added it to the list, the issue with that is how do you objectively test it.
can you teste the new sharge 170 power bank?
I will, it is on the list.
I think there are some interesting 12V USB chargers in the van dwelling, or RV, circles.
I think I wound up with one of the CoolGear ChargeIt models. And ran 2 wires to the battery or some 12v hot point inside the car.
I'm not sure about the pros/cons for everyone - I assume if someone is here watching this, they're willing to watch a yt video about how to install one, and spend an hour running the wires.
IMO, I figure I'm going to be charging stuff in my car for the rest of my life. I may as well have the convenience of a permanent power port, and whatever fast charging I could need. It's kind of nice having the option to throw a laptop or phone under a car seat, and leave it charging while you go into a store or something.
And depending on the car, maybe it's nicer to have it located in a glovebox, footwell, under a seat, etc. Sometimes cigarette sockets are not conveniently located. And my old one had bad contacts, so sometimes it'd wiggle itself loose.
I don't know what you'd search for if you want one - probably something like 'laptop rv/van charger', or 'hardwired 12v usb charger', or add pps, 60w, etc.
mm, yeah, permanent charging point, I've done that on some older cars. Switch and a fuse.
For what it's worth I've been using that baseus adapter continuously for years.
nice!
The final source for charger purchase guidance
A source, no one source is enough.
@@AllThingsOnePlace "final"
You've had better luck with Anker products than I...
Mine keep dying prematurely...
I recently got a Baseus FM transmitter+charger... It does ok... I also have a 100w capable one that does poorly when the car starts (can't do super fast charge on samsung) but a re-plug will allow for negotiating fast power...
I have an older anker that advertises 45w, but I suspect that is combined. No 1 port goes over 18w despite having 4 ports... this is fine for road trips, but not for fast charging anything or charging my laptop...
Yeah, of course the person that reviews them always has the best luck... Ah yeah, that's not great that a replug is required. I can't remember the last time I unplugged the cable from the charger in the socket in my car. Probably two years ago when I made the last video, ha. Anyway, thanks for sharing!
If you can find it, the Samsung 45w fast charge one is made of solid metal, truly a beast
mmm, yeah, I'll have to look around, maybe can eBay one.
i have the Basus and now I know to only charge one phone at a time and not leave it plugged in all the time. thankfully my car cuts power to the outlet when the car is off.
Yeah, my car 'cuts' power to the socket but it really just reduces the voltage, it's not the best design. Newer cars tend to isolate the socket all the way so that's good.
Nice! My friend desperately needs one of these. I keep telling her, "you can charge your car through your cigarette lighter!" it keeps giving you motion, perpetually...
haha. Yeah, I mean if you drive in the US any sizable distance you probably charge in some way. I guess all the new cars have USB ports.
@@AllThingsOnePlace that final line lay down so nicely, i had to ask her... "Who's your car charger?"
Whats worse, car charger or solar generator? Definitely solar generator. Its just the worst ever...
Hello, this is a factory for car chargers. Can I contact you?
There is an email address on the channel page. Also, don't top post the comment repeatedly, that's called spam.
Do you know the max voltage the 165 watt charger can handle? I was planning to use it to build a power bank to power my laptop, but I don't know the max voltage it could handle. My cells are 3.6v nominal and 4.2v max, and a 8s configuration would be perfect for the inverter I was planning to pair with it. But, that would put it at 33.6V max voltage, and I'm not sure if it could handle it? I know a fully charged 24v sealed lead acid battery is 25.77 volts, but that would limit me to a voltage range of 18v to 25.2v for a 6s li-ion battery pack.
Yeah, I didn't test over voltage as that's usually a one time test and the product fails permanently after that. I would expect two times nominal car battery voltage though so 28.8V, the converters are likely 30V tolerant, the question is how cheap did they go on the input capacitance voltage. Hopefully, at least 30V rated.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Just did some tests and it seems like it tolerates a max of about 30V. Nothing abnormal with a brief test with 7 batteries at 29.2V. With 8 batteries at 33.3V, I did not see any output from the USB-A port. It might have over-voltage protection set at 30V, because it continues to work after lowering the voltage back down.
@@petermai398 Nice! Thanks for checking that out and sharing.
3:52 - Just as a very minor thing-I believe that the pronunciation of “Scosche” rhymes with “gauche.”
(If it may be of interest, here’s a video from the company where they say their own name: ruclips.net/video/zJCqomWio3Q/видео.html )
Thanks! Yeah, I had no idea.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I didn’t know either until I thought to check just now. 😅
Thanks
You're welcome.
here just helping the algoritm :)
haha, well hopefully the video is okay...
You deserve more views! As gross as it is, maybe start making click baity titles? "Top 10 Amazon car chargers tested" or something of the like. I see a lot of people with lower quality videos raking in the views with dumb titles like that and matching thumbnails.
Yeah, I do need to up my thumbnail and title game. I have seen videos that are straight up bad get 10000 views in a day for channels of similar size and I get 1000 typically. In general my channel has grown linearly from inception, very much unlike youtube's typical growth statistics. I mean it's R value of 0.999 for linear growth of subscribers. In terms of views it's actually getting smaller. Which kind of dampens my want to make more videos. I don't even have anything on the schedule.
Hi -
Trash Engineer, me, being here.
How have you been? :- )
Okay.
1:19 oh thank goodness they only cause small car fires. My big car should be fine then :]
haha yeah.
I need one that is at least 65w to charge my work laptop
baseus 100w with pps, the others overheat or don't negotiate the protocols correctly
Yeah, from this lot.
Are they super capacitor? Just learning 😊 got a dash cam with a capacitor fitted and has only one port. My previous Samsung fast charger with double usb port but wont charge my azdome m550 pro dash properly. Need a usb cigarette charger that charges my dash and phone on the go. Looking at ugreen 130W need help if this would work?
So I purchased the worst xD. Anyway I do not intend to use it often, maybe close to once per year and for phone (it was more a purchase to reach a voucher thresold). I will never be confident enough to use it at high wattage. :)
Yeah, for a once in a while use, it's fine, they all did work.
Ya compré el cargador, ahora solo falta tener carro (soy pobre)😔
Yeah, one problem at a time I guess.
The Baseus charges my phone faster than any wall charger.
Interesting. I wonder why.
i wonder why do people even bothered to get these when power banks is essential to most of us ( or atleast iphone users)
simply cant justify in my brain
I use one. I guess it depends on car reliance.
HUH??? PD3.1 CAR CHARGER AND CANT DO PD 3.1?? THE F is that piece of junk??
Yeah, the EPR mode was a total fail on that thing.
... or a small car fire.. 😂
ha
All *terrible* things one place
haha, I know right?
First. :D
🤡
One hundred twenty fifth.