We were using the Dewalt, brushless impact drill/driver to put long screws in a wooden farm bridge. We found that the 5AH batteries did far better than the smaller capacity ones. It is not just a matter of how long the battery will last....The 5AH battery can produce a more powerful startup due to its larger capacity meeting the demand. We swapped fully charged batteries back and forth and there was a very noticeable difference in performance between the two.
The 5Ah battery do make a big different in performance, especially with the impact both in longevity and initial starting torque. Unfortunately most of the time it does not come with the tools and needs to be purchased separate. Thank you for posting, your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Took my two dcd791 drills back to HD due to serious chuck wobble. Have gone with Makita after 20 years with DEWALT. They really need to get their manufacturing "fixed". Let's see how Craftsman performs, since they are now manufactured by B&D as well.
Thanks for the reply, I keep seeing the adapter at the big box stores and would like to buy one and do a tear down on it, even tho I have a pretty good idea whats inside of it, I just have not done it yet. Perhaps that might be my next video. Have a great day.
... is easy for you in US thanks to homeless depo, everything is new on the market you can have in second, and the price is good. We in UK or EU pay pounds for dollar + import vat + transport so you luck to do a tone of staff and have all you need handy is a blessing. Can wait for new clips you are talking from experience... Respect. All the best for you!
I have worked in the UK, isolated parts of Mexico , Canada and in the middle east, I feel your pain when it comes to getting tools, materials, equipment and replacement parts in a reasonable time frame and for a reasonable price. I do feel very fortunate about where I live. Thank you for the kind words, Have a great rest of your day!
Just a tip I thought I would share after my batteries starting cracking at the screw locations I used jb plastic weld in the long plastic tube. It's like a clay you knead then apply. The activator is in the center. I put a layer of the stuff around the seam and screw locations to keep the casing together. It works great and sticks to the plastic like nothing else.
How old are your batteries if you dont mind me asking? I just checked all my batteries and they look good, but mine stay in the garage, they generally are not exposed to harsh conditions for very long. i will have to keep an eye out for that, thank you for the heads up.
Hey man I am a complete novice to this profession and I spent $200 on this 791 kit that has one 5ah battery. I've not used it yet but thank you for the real review as it helped me understand and appreciate what my hard-earned money went towards exactly. liked, sub'd, so keep us updated.
Thank you. My 791 is still going strong, the only issue I have is on occasion when I put a smooth barrel drill bit in the chuck, the chuck gets jammed and I can not open it back up, I end up having to use a pair of channel locks to turn the chuck to loosen it and get the bit out. I do need to make a video update.
@@builditbetter5610 thank you for your reply. I look forward to your next video regarding such. This stuff ain't cheap. The more we know the better we'll be making an informed purchase.
I've used dcd780 few years now, actually had to replace the brushes in it and gear selector last year and it now needs more gear selector work as it won't go into first now. I've used and beat the piss out of it. I got it with the small impact with and use it more for running screws in or out. I only do homeowner use and sometimes at work. I'm a cnc machinist and do small work running screws in or out with it. It's been well worth my money although I'm sure the higher model wouldve still been trouble free with the metal chuck and gearbox. dewalt for life as I've had the older nicd drills and upgraded to the 20v and just got a 6.0 ah battery for my 1/2"impact and u sawzall. It is the cats meow IMO. I'm going to buy the higher model to replace the plastic chuck and gears. I'll likely fix it and give to my son since the batteries are junk on the 14.4 I gave him from the old line. This video was helpful in choosing from the 791,991,996. Thanks
I still have my dcd780, I was contemplating on what to do with it since the gear box is jacked up. I will take some measurements and see if the metal chuck off the higher model drill will fit it. I am a dewalt fan too, I have everything from their saws and drill to some of the ancellary stuff like one of their shop vacs and lights. Glad I could help in your decision making. I am still new to you tube and still figuring everything out, but I try and be as straight as possible. Unlike a crap ton of other videos on youtube by guys that are being payed or given free tools to review by the manufacture I try and give an honest review based on my person experience. I needto make more teardown and tool review videos, do you have any requests for future videos?
@@builditbetter5610 anything happen with your 780? I got one from work with a seized chuck out of the trash.. after soaking the chuck to derust and working oil in, it now opens and closes.. seems to be strong for a brushed motor but the chuck might fail in the future since it's plastic and I had to work it hard to get it loose
I have purchased the 18 volt Dewalt set for near nothing and now use the 18 to 20 volt adaptor from I believe Denmark ( not dewalt adaptor) work excellent
I have had several folks comment I should but the adapter but all my 18v nano and lithium batteries still work great after hundreds of cycles and the 20v batteries last just as long as my 18v ones for the frequency I use them and I always make sure to keep my batteries charged. I would be intersed in the 18v to 20v adapter but I just cant see paying dewalts price for it when all my batteries still work great. Can you send the link or point me in the right direction to the adapter that you purchased?
this is the one I bought, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EYPK9ZW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it cost more than dewalt but the 20 v battery can be left on without draining the battery like the dewalt one will do. I is made by the people that designed the original battery of the Dewalt as I understand. and I bought my Dewalt tools for about $10 apiece and the batteries where near useles. the 18 volt stuff is almost given away at the swapmeets.
I am curious to know since there is no parasitic current draw with this adapter, if this adapter is actually stepping down the voltage for the 18V tools or just passing the voltage thought from the 20v battery to the 18v tool. If thats the case I would expect a shorter lifespan from the motors in the 18v tools. 18v dewalt batteries with a full charge should be around 19.1 float voltage but drops considerably when you first use the tool on a good battery, a fully charged 20v lipo battery would have somewhere around 23.5v float voltage and sustains that for quite a while, alto not substantial it could prove to shorten the life of worn 18v tools. Its interesting that they included an auto reset fuse in the adapter which is nice, but another concern I have is the low voltage cutout, if they are handing that in the adapter or expecting the active electronics in the battery as a safe guard. There is a bit of circuitry in the 20v dewalt tools that will not let the tool operate when the battery is below a certain voltage as well as some circuity in the battery. The 18v tools do not have that circuit in the tools as they were designed prior to the development and deployment of the newer lipo battery's. Also I would be concerned with high temp cutout, if that is included with this adapter to where if the battery gets too hot will it stop the tool. I may have to do some investigating...lol Thank you for the link.
I bought an 'officially refurbished' DCD791 and to be honest it looks like a brand new drill from top to bottom, it just has some horrendous flaws in where the molding doesn't line up 100% legit so I'm wondering if they just pass of failed QC drills as refurbished. Aside from the tiniest bit of run out I find in all B&D products now it's a pretty decent drill with some good torque. Most I'll ever do is drill maybe 3/8th holes in steel beams and my old DCD771 was decent enough at that. Hell, even my backup LDX220 B&D gets it done. The 791 has the most solid chuck assembly out of the bunch, but I assume that won't last longer than a few months and a couple short drops. For under $100 I can't complain though, DeWalt ain't what it used to be but that's really only hurting the guys doing that hardcore drilling the majority of the drill buying population will never touch. As crappy as they may be now, a homeowner buying any one of those drills for simple at home tasks is complete overkill.
@amagneticist Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.
@@mikeike7114 I didn't have that problem but it's typically just a little lever inside the housing that holds the pwm circuit. You have to disassemble the drill to get at it but it might be something that's an easy fix if you're able to look at it.
Me again, and the DCD791 does not have the wobbly chuck?, I am looking a replacement for a hammer drill with the wobbly chuck ( a lot of wobble ) and the 791 or 991 look like a nice option. I am looking for a drill/drive without the percusion for minimize the risk of wobbling Tanks a lot for your help. Is complicated acquiring good tools in my country 😆
Hey I had a DCD791 that I just returned because it had chuck wobble, too much for my taste. If I cranked down on the chuck when I tightened it, I noticed it wouldn’t be as bad but I still returned the drill and now I’m looking again for something else
@@tac4bravo fuuck, I qas about to go get 791 set, but seeing some bad comments about it ruins it. Ifk maybe i should just stick with my dcd777, and not return it. Just though metal chuck, and batteries with indicator would be nicer.
Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.
Chuck wobble on the DCD791 is really bad. If you get a good one keep it! I have tested over 4 DCD791 drills from different places. They all wobble bad. The new atomic series runs straight and is also not riveted on so you can replace it.
@@Huflung Some are worse than others. The one I have now makes the drill vibrate physically in your hand but the run out is about 1/16 at the end of a 1/2" drill bit. I would say it's a annoying compromise. Check the drill as soon as you get it don't wait and let your return window expire.
Jarek Czarnecki any ideas how exactly I can check this before handing over to my father. He won’t know. I heard drill bits fall out as well. How can I check that ? Thanks
Thank you for letting me know. I can't live with something like that. So what's the alternative drill whiteout this problem? I've also looked at Makita DDF484RM3J and Milwaukee M18 BLDD
@@jerrytube13 Thanks so much for posting this comment! I'm looking for a new drill/driver and was considering the 791D2 or newer 792D2. But I've read that most of these newer models Do Not have a Replaceable Chuck! WTF!? Instead, you must replace the Entire Upper Drive Assembly at nearly the cost of the bare tool itself! I was also worried about runout or chuck wobble... FFS, DeWalt!!! So disappointing! Why can't they get the most basic things about a drill right?!?! Sadly, it's all about cost cutting and meeting a "general consumer" price point for the big box stores! But I would GLADLY pay extra for a version of this drill with a standard, replaceable chuck AND no wobble!!! GET IT RIGHT, DeWalt!!!
Should’ve just sent it DeWalt tool repair. I wouldn’t mess with HD for that. I sent my dcd796 In because it stopped working but I use it every day drilling 1 inch holes Sometimes bigger, 3, 2x4 at times doing electrical work. The fixed it took about a week and a half made it look brand new.
Y B You are correct the DCD780 is not brushless. However the actual brushless motor inside a DCD777 spins much faster then 1500 RPM probably more like 12000 RPM, its the gearbox that reduces the RPMs down to 1500 max.
Tonatiuh Mellado The 780 i have does have a slight wobble in the chuck i put a concentric peice of stainless drill rod in the chuck and checked it with a dial indicator, there was 0.002" of run out 1" from the chuck face.
phourtwenteephorlife irregardlrss is a word , just not one commonly used. Please see link below. www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless Thanks, i enjoy making videos and love to hear when people enjoy wasting their time listening to me talk..lmao Have a great day.
@@builditbetter5610 do you know what could be an issue with my 780? it runs but has very low torque, smells a lot and feel hot to the touch. Do I need brush replacement?
@@aligzaidi Yes, it sounds like your brushes are worn out, should be able to find replacements on Amazon or Ebay. Make sure to get all the old carbon on the commutation bars.
i want to ask you something my brother gave me a dc925 and i want to know can i use it like an impact wrench if i buy the bits cause i don't want to buy a impact drill but i want to know can i convert it but if i caqn't then i will buy me an impact drill so please help me out
No, the impact drills have hammers similar to a pneumatic impact gun, all of these drills only have gear boxes, 2 completely different tools with no way to convert one into the other.
Can you tell me if I’m missing something(probably am) I just bought this drill today and was checking it out, I can’t seem to turn the torque adjustment collar😕
Which drill did you purchase? The torque adjustment collar can sometimes be tight when new, so you may need to work it back and forth. Also if the speed slider is not all the way in 1 or 2 the torque collar will not move. You may also want to try and switch speeds and run the drill in both directions to get everything worked in.
Also the collar will only turn like 320 degrees, it does not make a full rotation. If the collar is say on #1 setting turn it counter clockwise if holding the drill in your hand.
Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.
In the beginning you state these are hammer drills. The DCD791 is not a hammer drill.
We were using the Dewalt, brushless impact drill/driver to put long screws in a wooden farm bridge. We found that the 5AH batteries did far better than the smaller capacity ones. It is not just a matter of how long the battery will last....The 5AH battery can produce a more powerful startup due to its larger capacity meeting the demand. We swapped fully charged batteries back and forth and there was a very noticeable difference in performance between the two.
The 5Ah battery do make a big different in performance, especially with the impact both in longevity and initial starting torque. Unfortunately most of the time it does not come with the tools and needs to be purchased separate.
Thank you for posting, your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Grover LEG Good observation. Good info comment. On paper they should be the same, in real life bigger batteries are stronger.
Took my two dcd791 drills back to HD due to serious chuck wobble. Have gone with Makita after 20 years with DEWALT. They really need to get their manufacturing "fixed". Let's see how Craftsman performs, since they are now manufactured by B&D as well.
@Happy Days
Which Makita Drill did you get to deafening the DeWalt and have you been happy with it???
... you can bay an adaptor for the new battery , and still work the old ones .
The adaptor is DCA 1820 .
Thanks for the reply,
I keep seeing the adapter at the big box stores and would like to buy one and do a tear down on it, even tho I have a pretty good idea whats inside of it, I just have not done it yet.
Perhaps that might be my next video.
Have a great day.
... is easy for you in US thanks to homeless depo, everything is new on the market you can have in second, and the price is good.
We in UK or EU pay pounds for dollar + import vat + transport so you luck to do a tone of staff and have all you need handy is a blessing.
Can wait for new clips you are talking from experience... Respect.
All the best for you!
I have worked in the UK, isolated parts of Mexico , Canada and in the middle east, I feel your pain when it comes to getting tools, materials, equipment and replacement parts in a reasonable time frame and for a reasonable price. I do feel very fortunate about where I live.
Thank you for the kind words, Have a great rest of your day!
Just a tip I thought I would share after my batteries starting cracking at the screw locations I used jb plastic weld in the long plastic tube. It's like a clay you knead then apply. The activator is in the center. I put a layer of the stuff around the seam and screw locations to keep the casing together. It works great and sticks to the plastic like nothing else.
How old are your batteries if you dont mind me asking?
I just checked all my batteries and they look good, but mine stay in the garage, they generally are not exposed to harsh conditions for very long.
i will have to keep an eye out for that, thank you for the heads up.
Which batteries, old or new? Thanks.
Hey man I am a complete novice to this profession and I spent $200 on this 791 kit that has one 5ah battery. I've not used it yet but thank you for the real review as it helped me understand and appreciate what my hard-earned money went towards exactly. liked, sub'd, so keep us updated.
Thank you. My 791 is still going strong, the only issue I have is on occasion when I put a smooth barrel drill bit in the chuck, the chuck gets jammed and I can not open it back up, I end up having to use a pair of channel locks to turn the chuck to loosen it and get the bit out. I do need to make a video update.
@@builditbetter5610 thank you for your reply. I look forward to your next video regarding such. This stuff ain't cheap. The more we know the better we'll be making an informed purchase.
I've used dcd780 few years now, actually had to replace the brushes in it and gear selector last year and it now needs more gear selector work as it won't go into first now. I've used and beat the piss out of it. I got it with the small impact with and use it more for running screws in or out. I only do homeowner use and sometimes at work. I'm a cnc machinist and do small work running screws in or out with it. It's been well worth my money although I'm sure the higher model wouldve still been trouble free with the metal chuck and gearbox. dewalt for life as I've had the older nicd drills and upgraded to the 20v and just got a 6.0 ah battery for my 1/2"impact and u sawzall. It is the cats meow IMO. I'm going to buy the higher model to replace the plastic chuck and gears. I'll likely fix it and give to my son since the batteries are junk on the 14.4 I gave him from the old line. This video was helpful in choosing from the 791,991,996. Thanks
I still have my dcd780, I was contemplating on what to do with it since the gear box is jacked up. I will take some measurements and see if the metal chuck off the higher model drill will fit it.
I am a dewalt fan too, I have everything from their saws and drill to some of the ancellary stuff like one of their shop vacs and lights.
Glad I could help in your decision making. I am still new to you tube and still figuring everything out, but I try and be as straight as possible. Unlike a crap ton of other videos on youtube by guys that are being payed or given free tools to review by the manufacture I try and give an honest review based on my person experience.
I needto make more teardown and tool review videos, do you have any requests for future videos?
@@builditbetter5610 anything happen with your 780? I got one from work with a seized chuck out of the trash.. after soaking the chuck to derust and working oil in, it now opens and closes.. seems to be strong for a brushed motor but the chuck might fail in the future since it's plastic and I had to work it hard to get it loose
I still have my old version 18v combo kit from yr2000
I have purchased the 18 volt Dewalt set for near nothing and now use the 18 to 20 volt adaptor from I believe Denmark ( not dewalt adaptor) work excellent
I have had several folks comment I should but the adapter but all my 18v nano and lithium batteries still work great after hundreds of cycles and the 20v batteries last just as long as my 18v ones for the frequency I use them and I always make sure to keep my batteries charged.
I would be intersed in the 18v to 20v adapter but I just cant see paying dewalts price for it when all my batteries still work great.
Can you send the link or point me in the right direction to the adapter that you purchased?
this is the one I bought, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EYPK9ZW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it cost more than dewalt but the 20 v battery can be left on without draining the battery like the dewalt one will do. I is made by the people that designed the original battery of the Dewalt as I understand. and I bought my Dewalt tools for about $10 apiece and the batteries where near useles. the 18 volt stuff is almost given away at the swapmeets.
I am curious to know since there is no parasitic current draw with this adapter, if this adapter is actually stepping down the voltage for the 18V tools or just passing the voltage thought from the 20v battery to the 18v tool.
If thats the case I would expect a shorter lifespan from the motors in the 18v tools. 18v dewalt batteries with a full charge should be around 19.1 float voltage but drops considerably when you first use the tool on a good battery, a fully charged 20v lipo battery would have somewhere around 23.5v float voltage and sustains that for quite a while, alto not substantial it could prove to shorten the life of worn 18v tools.
Its interesting that they included an auto reset fuse in the adapter which is nice, but another concern I have is the low voltage cutout, if they are handing that in the adapter or expecting the active electronics in the battery as a safe guard. There is a bit of circuitry in the 20v dewalt tools that will not let the tool operate when the battery is below a certain voltage as well as some circuity in the battery. The 18v tools do not have that circuit in the tools as they were designed prior to the development and deployment of the newer lipo battery's.
Also I would be concerned with high temp cutout, if that is included with this adapter to where if the battery gets too hot will it stop the tool.
I may have to do some investigating...lol Thank you for the link.
great review so happy i watched your review i will now go for the DCD 791 thank you
Glad I could help in your decision making.
I bought an 'officially refurbished' DCD791 and to be honest it looks like a brand new drill from top to bottom, it just has some horrendous flaws in where the molding doesn't line up 100% legit so I'm wondering if they just pass of failed QC drills as refurbished. Aside from the tiniest bit of run out I find in all B&D products now it's a pretty decent drill with some good torque. Most I'll ever do is drill maybe 3/8th holes in steel beams and my old DCD771 was decent enough at that. Hell, even my backup LDX220 B&D gets it done. The 791 has the most solid chuck assembly out of the bunch, but I assume that won't last longer than a few months and a couple short drops. For under $100 I can't complain though, DeWalt ain't what it used to be but that's really only hurting the guys doing that hardcore drilling the majority of the drill buying population will never touch. As crappy as they may be now, a homeowner buying any one of those drills for simple at home tasks is complete overkill.
@amagneticist Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.
@@mikeike7114 I didn't have that problem but it's typically just a little lever inside the housing that holds the pwm circuit. You have to disassemble the drill to get at it but it might be something that's an easy fix if you're able to look at it.
Me again, and the DCD791 does not have the wobbly chuck?, I am looking a replacement for a hammer drill with the wobbly chuck ( a lot of wobble ) and the 791 or 991 look like a nice option. I am looking for a drill/drive without the percusion for minimize the risk of wobbling
Tanks a lot for your help. Is complicated acquiring good tools in my country 😆
Hey I had a DCD791 that I just returned because it had chuck wobble, too much for my taste. If I cranked down on the chuck when I tightened it, I noticed it wouldn’t be as bad but I still returned the drill and now I’m looking again for something else
@@tac4bravo fuuck, I qas about to go get 791 set, but seeing some bad comments about it ruins it. Ifk maybe i should just stick with my dcd777, and not return it. Just though metal chuck, and batteries with indicator would be nicer.
Thanks, your video made me buy the $20 four years replacement warranty.
Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.
you should work on your Clint eastward impersonations .... yr almost there
Chuck wobble on the DCD791 is really bad. If you get a good one keep it! I have tested over 4 DCD791 drills from different places. They all wobble bad. The new atomic series runs straight and is also not riveted on so you can replace it.
Jarek Czarnecki is it that bad. I have one coming in tomorrow for my father the 791D2
@@Huflung Some are worse than others. The one I have now makes the drill vibrate physically in your hand but the run out is about 1/16 at the end of a 1/2" drill bit. I would say it's a annoying compromise. Check the drill as soon as you get it don't wait and let your return window expire.
Jarek Czarnecki any ideas how exactly I can check this before handing over to my father. He won’t know. I heard drill bits fall out as well. How can I check that ?
Thanks
Thank you for letting me know. I can't live with something like that. So what's the alternative drill whiteout this problem? I've also looked at Makita DDF484RM3J and Milwaukee M18 BLDD
@@jerrytube13
Thanks so much for posting this comment!
I'm looking for a new drill/driver and was considering the 791D2 or newer 792D2.
But I've read that most of these newer models Do Not have a Replaceable Chuck! WTF!?
Instead, you must replace the Entire Upper Drive Assembly at nearly the cost of the bare tool itself!
I was also worried about runout or chuck wobble... FFS, DeWalt!!!
So disappointing! Why can't they get the most basic things about a drill right?!?!
Sadly, it's all about cost cutting and meeting a "general consumer" price point for the big box stores!
But I would GLADLY pay extra for a version of this drill with a standard, replaceable chuck AND no wobble!!!
GET IT RIGHT, DeWalt!!!
Should’ve just sent it DeWalt tool repair. I wouldn’t mess with HD for that. I sent my dcd796 In because it stopped working but I use it every day drilling 1 inch holes Sometimes bigger, 3, 2x4 at times doing electrical work. The fixed it took about a week and a half made it look brand new.
What did they charge you to rebuild your drill?
Build It Better
Nothing! it was under warranty
Did pay for shipping to the place but that’s it
Great review I couldn't agree more , you need to use the tool for awhile before you can give a accurate and honest review
Thank you...Looking to assemble a small tool kit for my cruising Pacemaker boat.
My pleasure. Hope it helped your buying decision process.
Dcd791 is not a hammer drill. The hammer drill version is the dcd796, same body and drill, just the 791 is a drill driver, the 796 is hammer drill.
Thanks
Hi. I'm drill hunting.
Came across your video.
Found it helpful.
Wanted to say thanks. Cheers!
The Happy Whisk
my pleasure. Glad you liked it. Let me know if theres anything else i can do to help in your decision making.
DCD780 is not brushless and brushless don't necessarily spin faster. The cheapest brushless Dewalt DCD777 is quite slow at 1500 no load RPM.
Y B
You are correct the DCD780 is not brushless.
However the actual brushless motor inside a DCD777 spins much faster then 1500 RPM probably more like 12000 RPM, its the gearbox that reduces the RPMs down to 1500 max.
Hola, gracias por compartir. Una duda, el 780 ¿no tiene juego en el Chuck?
Hi, tanks for sharing. One cuestion, the 780 has no wobble in the chuck?
Tonatiuh Mellado
The 780 i have does have a slight wobble in the chuck i put a concentric peice of stainless drill rod in the chuck and checked it with a dial indicator, there was 0.002" of run out 1" from the chuck face.
Build It Better Tanks a lot for the answer 👍
Regardless irregardless isn't a word lol . Great video I enjoyed it.
phourtwenteephorlife irregardlrss is a word , just not one commonly used.
Please see link below.
www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless
Thanks, i enjoy making videos and love to hear when people enjoy wasting their time listening to me talk..lmao
Have a great day.
Yeah he almost lost me at the irregardless
Nice information. I just ordered the dcd791.
Mine DCD780 burnt while mixing Sheetrock mud.
We have not had any luck with the 780, seems the motor is always working too hard and ends up burning up the motor
@@builditbetter5610 do you know what could be an issue with my 780? it runs but has very low torque, smells a lot and feel hot to the touch. Do I need brush replacement?
@@aligzaidi Yes, it sounds like your brushes are worn out, should be able to find replacements on Amazon or Ebay. Make sure to get all the old carbon on the commutation bars.
How did it held up so far?
Great video!
i want to ask you something my brother gave me a dc925 and i want to know can i use it like an impact wrench if i buy the bits cause i don't want to buy a impact drill but i want to know can i convert it but if i caqn't then i will buy me an impact drill so please help me out
No, the impact drills have hammers similar to a pneumatic impact gun, all of these drills only have gear boxes, 2 completely different tools with no way to convert one into the other.
@@builditbetter5610 thanks
Can you tell me if I’m missing something(probably am) I just bought this drill today and was checking it out, I can’t seem to turn the torque adjustment collar😕
Which drill did you purchase?
The torque adjustment collar can sometimes be tight when new, so you may need to work it back and forth.
Also if the speed slider is not all the way in 1 or 2 the torque collar will not move.
You may also want to try and switch speeds and run the drill in both directions to get everything worked in.
Also the collar will only turn like 320 degrees, it does not make a full rotation. If the collar is say on #1 setting turn it counter clockwise if holding the drill in your hand.
Nice review
“So im going to set that one out of the way.”
Also i love saying irreguardless. Fuk english
You lost me at irregardless.
Hi. I have a dcd791 too, new. The reverse/forward button is very loose/sloppy. Did yours have the same issue, or no? Does it matter? How can I repair it? Thanks.