FYI this is an old vid. Pertronix still makes this, however they have improved it even more. Instead of black they now have a red one with a black rotor. The difference? #1 when paired with very low resistance coil (0.5-.7 ohms) it will give up to 4 times the amount of "juice" from the coil for the plugs; and #2 the red one has a safety feature built in that shuts of the ignition power within 2 min so the unit doesn't fry-a feature that this black one does NOT have. And Summit sells both, but the better one is $15 more. Just something to think about.
I had a 1974 triumph spitfire with the same engine and distributor, I drilled the mounting holes on the baseplate to the correct location,, Drove it for three years and sold it,,
Thanks for sharing this information. I've never seen something like that, either. I hope you and all your staff all have a Merry Christmas and a safe and happy New Year. Regards, Tom
I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same bogging. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, Then last night, It acted up again. You would think that if it works for a week from the start, it would keep working good, Hmm... I'm hearing from some youtubes to run a hot from the streering column to the hot on the pertronix wire?? by doing that, I'm guessing you leave it off the coil if you're doing that type of wiring?
thank you for all your info-video's John. From a cold and bright Meppen, Germany I would like to wish you all a merry festive season ahead and hope to see more of you next year.....let me think....ja...2014 !!
John, Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. Angel and Sophie and I are still in Australia, and as nice as it is to "escape" Midwestern winters, we can't wait to get home after our "Tour of Duty" is over. Cheers to all from Down Under, Tom Webb.
the solution is fairly simple A) establish firing marks on the magnetic rotor, the module and the tip of the high tension rotor B) assemble the module to the fixing plate c) align the high tension rotor to the high tension towers of the cap( you can sacrify a cap and drill a hole in the center of the tower and scribe the center of the rotor) D) align the firing marks on the magnetic rotor to the firing marks on the module E) taking the caution if inserting the adjusting shim between the rotor and the module, locate the new fixing holes on the breaker points plate, drill and tap voilà !!! I 've done many conversions using standard automotive parts because of the availability of replacement parts, I often used the GM HEI 4 pin module beacuse of the availability and the low price. The Chrysler reluctor ring ( 8 cyl can be easily trimmed for a 4 cyl application) and pickup coils Bosch pickup coils and star wheels can also easily and reliabilyfitted with the GM HEI 4 pin module. many other combinations are possible too
@@gfbemc0256 look on the internet, there is much information about the use of the 4 pin GM HEI module and the Chrysler reluctor ring and pick up coil. As long the pick up coil is magnetic style ( 2 wire ) and its resistance is between 500 and 1500 ohm, you can use the GM HEI module , the important is to use a good heat sink and good corrision protection ( usually, corrosion protection grease as Grote is a good way to protect contacts and the crimps on the terminals should be terfectly done. these is a simpler way if you can live with the points, it is to use the points to trigger an electronic module that manages the coil, for that, you can use the FORD TFI module ( Standard motors LX 226 ) where the post #1 goes to the ground, #2 goes to the coil ( - ) #3 & #6 goes to the 12 volts ( switched), #5 goes to the points As coil, you can use the Ford TFI coil. MSD 8200 or any coil with a primary resistance of about 0.7 - 1 ohm Of course, you should eliminate the ballast resistor and feed your coil to the battery voltage For parts sourcing, you can use DELCO D-1906 or Standard motors LX 301 but avoid LX 301T that is innovative ( CHEAP ) version
Good diagnosis. I initially thought your video title meant that Pertronix was "phasing out" (discontinuing) the Ignitor. I panicked for a minute since I just bought one today... in 2020.
Having this exact issue with a pertronix distributor for a type 1 beetle. I called, sent it back, and they promptly sent it back saying that there was no trouble found with the product.
Thanks for the video!-- Did you ever figure out why it was firing at the wrong time? QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :) Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
Merry Christmas to you and your staff from Antrifttal, Hessia, Germany. We enjoy all of your videos and always learn something from them. Hope you get the distributor problem solved.
haha, My issue is a little differant, I had an Accuspark unit in a 45d and the magnetic pickup wasnt picking anything up unless i mounted my mag ring high up to the point my rotor wouldnt fit! and the Ebay seller didnt want to know about it!
Hi Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974 My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it. After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth. After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100% Thing that confuse me totaly. How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible??? My coil got 3 wires on. 1. Ignition wire to + 2. Wire to points on - 3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes) Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁 The condencor is connected to the wire that go to the points. Condencer is skrewed on the casing of distributor. The extra wire on the negative on coil go down with the ignition wire. So there is 2 wires on negative of coil. One go to points and condenser other one go down with ignition wire. Not to condenser or distributor. I mean its comfusing. Just after i fix points that got short to earth permantly. Starter stop keep cranking and got spark (there was no spark) and car start 100% I keep on thinking that the extra wire on coil negative side got something to do with starter keep cranking. That extra wire make my mind spin. 🤔🤔🤔😃
great video as usual, I have the P2 in my 71 gt.But! I need to run 12v directly to coil as I get only 7v at coil cranking. Best place to pull 12v from? Guess you may have run across this? and your law of 3's was cool!
Either you have the wrong ignitor kit, or the ignitor plate is installed at the wrong angle. A call to your friendly Pertronix tech support will solve the problem right away. It did for me.
The magnets are marked on the sleeve, for 4 cylinders there's four dots on one side and an M where the magnet is on the other side. The issue is when the magnet is pointing at the module the spark goes off, all that had to be done was place the rotor in line with point 1 on the cap, and rotate the magnet sleeve so it is aligned with the module at the same time the rotor is aligned with a point. The sleeve is not grooved it can rotate
his first mistake was having anything to do with a LUCAS ign system they didnt call lucas the prince of darkness for nothing, have had a couple of pommy cars now and the first thing u do is bin the lucas system and convert to a bosch system, unless you are fond of dull headlights hard starting and sitting on the side of the road at midnight in the rain, with no spark!
FYI this is an old vid. Pertronix still makes this, however they have improved it even more. Instead of black they now have a red one with a black rotor. The difference? #1 when paired with very low resistance coil (0.5-.7 ohms) it will give up to 4 times the amount of "juice" from the coil for the plugs; and #2 the red one has a safety feature built in that shuts of the ignition power within 2 min so the unit doesn't fry-a feature that this black one does NOT have. And Summit sells both, but the better one is $15 more. Just something to think about.
John Twist you are an absolute champion, I do believe you have explained the exact problem I'm having.
I had a 1974 triumph spitfire with the same engine and distributor, I drilled the mounting holes on the baseplate to the correct location,,
Drove it for three years and sold it,,
The best for 2014, John and the rest and thanks for the video's, Eddy, Belgium.
What? No solution? Then it’s just theory? Did you solve the issue? Did you swap the pertronix parts in the distributor?
Can't see where the wires are connected.
Thanks for sharing this information. I've never seen something like that, either. I hope you and all your staff all have a Merry Christmas and a safe and happy New Year. Regards, Tom
I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same bogging. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, Then last night, It acted up again. You would think that if it works for a week from the start, it would keep working good, Hmm...
I'm hearing from some youtubes to run a hot from the streering column to the hot on the pertronix wire?? by doing that, I'm guessing you leave it off the coil if you're doing that type of wiring?
great vids..
straightforward.easy to understand.
not alot of useless yap just to hear yourself talk..subscribed
Did you found a solution for this case?
Great video John, very informative. Thanks and Merry Christmas
thank you for all your info-video's John. From a cold and bright Meppen, Germany I would like to wish you all a merry festive season ahead and hope to see more of you next year.....let me think....ja...2014 !!
John, Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. Angel and Sophie and I are still in Australia, and as nice as it is to "escape" Midwestern winters, we can't wait to get home after our "Tour of Duty" is over. Cheers to all from Down Under, Tom Webb.
the solution is fairly simple
A) establish firing marks on the magnetic rotor, the module and the tip of the high tension rotor
B) assemble the module to the fixing plate
c) align the high tension rotor to the high tension towers of the cap( you can sacrify a cap and drill a hole in the center of the tower and scribe the center of the rotor)
D) align the firing marks on the magnetic rotor to the firing marks on the module
E) taking the caution if inserting the adjusting shim between the rotor and the module, locate the new fixing holes on the breaker points plate, drill and tap
voilà !!!
I 've done many conversions using standard automotive parts because of the availability of replacement parts, I often used the GM HEI 4 pin module beacuse of the availability and the low price. The Chrysler reluctor ring ( 8 cyl can be easily trimmed for a 4 cyl application) and pickup coils
Bosch pickup coils and star wheels can also easily and reliabilyfitted with the GM HEI 4 pin module.
many other combinations are possible too
Sounds great. A demonstration would be golden.
I like your ignition solutions. Where can I find more information? I would prefer to use high quality OE parts vs cheap aftermarket Chinese parts.
@@gfbemc0256 look on the internet, there is much information about the use of the 4 pin GM HEI module and the Chrysler reluctor ring and pick up coil.
As long the pick up coil is magnetic style ( 2 wire ) and its resistance is between 500 and 1500 ohm, you can use the GM HEI module , the important is to use a good heat sink and good corrision protection ( usually, corrosion protection grease as Grote is a good way to protect contacts and the crimps on the terminals should be terfectly done.
these is a simpler way if you can live with the points, it is to use the points to trigger an electronic module that manages the coil, for that, you can use the FORD TFI module ( Standard motors LX 226 ) where the post #1 goes to the ground, #2 goes to the coil ( - ) #3 & #6 goes to the 12 volts ( switched), #5 goes to the points
As coil, you can use the Ford TFI coil. MSD 8200 or any coil with a primary resistance of about 0.7 - 1 ohm
Of course, you should eliminate the ballast resistor and feed your coil to the battery voltage
For parts sourcing, you can use DELCO D-1906 or Standard motors LX 301 but avoid LX 301T that is innovative ( CHEAP ) version
@@jacquespoirier9071 thank you so much. I greatly appreciate your advice & knowledge.
Hey could the distributor plate be in upside down?
It's all about rotor phasing as you found.
Good diagnosis. I initially thought your video title meant that Pertronix was "phasing out" (discontinuing) the Ignitor. I panicked for a minute since I just bought one today... in 2020.
Having this exact issue with a pertronix distributor for a type 1 beetle. I called, sent it back, and they promptly sent it back saying that there was no trouble found with the product.
What was the solution to the problem? I am having similar ignition problems with a '75 Spitfire?
Thanks for the video!-- Did you ever figure out why it was firing at the wrong time?
QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :)
Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
thanks for all the vids jon, please never stop doing them!!! merry xmas to you! :)
Merry Christmas to you and your staff from Antrifttal, Hessia, Germany. We enjoy all of your videos and always learn something from them. Hope you get the distributor problem solved.
haha, My issue is a little differant, I had an Accuspark unit in a 45d and the magnetic pickup wasnt picking anything up unless i mounted my mag ring high up to the point my rotor wouldnt fit! and the Ebay seller didnt want to know about it!
Which name of distributed
Easy-going, intelligent and informative. You're obviously behind the times! Lol!
Hi
Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974
My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it.
After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth.
After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100%
Thing that confuse me totaly.
How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible???
My coil got 3 wires on.
1. Ignition wire to +
2. Wire to points on -
3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes)
Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁
The condencor is connected to the wire that go to the points. Condencer is skrewed on the casing of distributor.
The extra wire on the negative on coil go down with the ignition wire.
So there is 2 wires on negative of coil. One go to points and condenser other one go down with ignition wire. Not to condenser or distributor.
I mean its comfusing. Just after i fix points that got short to earth permantly. Starter stop keep cranking and got spark (there was no spark) and car start 100%
I keep on thinking that the extra wire on coil negative side got something to do with starter keep cranking.
That extra wire make my mind spin. 🤔🤔🤔😃
Perfecto_vídeo_,información....de TijusnaB,C, ( Border with San Diego Ca, ,). ** 17* *Aug** 2021. Saludos..
Where to buy Blinker Fluid ? LOL :P
great video as usual, I have the P2 in my 71 gt.But! I need to run 12v directly to coil as I get only 7v at coil cranking. Best place to pull 12v from? Guess you may have run across this?
and your law of 3's was cool!
Great videos.
Either you have the wrong ignitor kit, or the ignitor plate is installed at the wrong angle. A call to your friendly Pertronix tech support will solve the problem right away. It did for me.
I see this was a year ago, but what was the solution to this problem. Please I'd love to know (like yesterday) :-).
porely designed ignition isnt limited to the UK. Mallory did a fine job of making trash in the late 60s
so how did you fix it?
The magnets are marked on the sleeve, for 4 cylinders there's four dots on one side and an M where the magnet is on the other side. The issue is when the magnet is pointing at the module the spark goes off, all that had to be done was place the rotor in line with point 1 on the cap, and rotate the magnet sleeve so it is aligned with the module at the same time the rotor is aligned with a point. The sleeve is not grooved it can rotate
I would have turned the distributor a little....
great video Santa !!
Wow almost 7 yr old video! Blinker fluid
Before finishing this vid (2:18 mark now) , or reading below... I'll guess at issue... positive ground.
Well how did you solve it?? Ha! I have a 53 ford and it ran.. I drove it a short ways and it died
Great video... Merry Christmas to you and your staff!
his first mistake was having anything to do with a LUCAS ign system they didnt call lucas the prince of darkness for nothing, have had a couple of pommy cars now and the first thing u do is bin the lucas system and convert to a bosch system, unless you are fond of dull headlights hard starting and sitting on the side of the road at midnight in the rain, with no spark!
Take the bottom plate out and flip it over and remount everything.
Dagnabbit.... I was wrong.
Diggin the hat!
get a 'D' distributor.....
Just turn the distributor in the car! It's called being out of time.
Wrong. See my reply above.
Nice blurry camera work, next time don't hire a drunk to record