Straight to the point, thank you! Been dry mounting my fiber prints for decades and need a solution for inkjet, as I'm not convinced heat is appropriate for these inks.
My first attempt at mounting will be by following this video, so confused with some of the others iv seen.thanks for the simple explanation and visual..
Hi Craig - just had to drop a line to say thank you! A refreshingly clear video on what should be a simple topic (but some people love to overcomplicate it!). All the best.
Thanks for that, I have been asked to put some of my photography work for sale in a coffee shop, I said I could not be bothered framing them and it was expensive, she said no just mount them without a frame and we can put them on a shelf so people can browse them at their leisure and frame them themselves, I’ve looked at several methods, this is the defintly the best and its quick, thanks.
Thank you for the video. I was invited to do my first ever show in a few months. Have no idea what Im up against, but your tutorial gave me a great idea. Thanks again.
Excellent . Explained in 6 minutes what others took at least half an hour of doddering around .! Also didn't use centimetres etc but good old inches .!! I hope the day will never come when US and Britain convert to metric...!
A good concise tutorial. Are you not taking a risk with some artwork/prints by fixing it both top and bottom? This potentially does not allow certain paper types to expand/constrict due to climatic variations and can cause prints to buckle. Just a thought.
That was clear, thanks. But I believed fine art prints or paintings were best treated with a slightly wider margin at the bottom of the art work. Of course , then it might need to be a hand cut may. Thanks for clarifying this!
Hi Craig, I'm new at cutting mats, etc. but am moving along. What brand tape are you using for attaching the photo? I know it should be 1", double sided, acid free.
I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “under the mattte”. Often this matted photo is put directly into a picture frame with glass front which protects it. Other times I’m taking it to my local camera club for judging and just leave it as is. It’s fairly durable, but even if it gets damaged it’s a one off just for the judging and I will replace the photo with a new one
Hi Craig, great video. One question, I also am using the same company for my mat kit. I want to mat a 5x7 photo but the window measures 4.5 x 6.5. how would i crop this in adobe elements? thanks.
Dry mounting is considered ok for open editions, but it is permanent meaning you can’t remove the print from the backing board. The reason for the method I show is it allows the print to be re-matted without damaging the print. This is preferred for most limited edition fine are prints.
Most of my matted prints are going directly into a frame so I don’t bother with the bottom. If I’m entering a print competition at PPA, WPPI, or local camera club I will sometimes put a small piece of double side tape at the bottom.
No, the photo is attached to the back mat. The hinge at the top keeps the back mat and the front mat aligned. Once it is in a frame it is never an issue.
I often do cut my own mats but it is tedious and often not really necessary. Gallery framing is often not symmetrical around the border of the photo/mat as is considered part of the aesthetic. That being said cutting your own mats can add a presentation element such as creating negative space. If you are willing to cut your own mats go for it, but precut mats are preferred by many just because of the ease of use.
Is that the regular size to get a print 11x17 to fit a 16x20 matt- then what size frame would you buy for this? I am doing my 1st exhibition and have no idea -sizes-and so on.. thanks.. any frame places you recommend? they seem to be a fortune in the stores round here..
Yes, 11x17 in a 16x20 mat. The frame would then be a 16x20 frame. I purchase all of my frames from www.framedestination.com/ I use the Nielsen Profile 97 frames www.framedestination.com/picture-frames/metal/nielsen-profile-97.html I use pre-cut mats from Golden State Art goldenstateart.com/ Let me know if you have any other questions.
You put the tape and the hinge on the top side. So just take everything I showed and rotate it. You want the mat and the photo to be hanging from the top no matter what orientation.
The idea is to try to find a standard frame size and then work in from that. Standard sizes are going to be a lot cheaper than a custom frame. It appears the 22x28 is a standard size but uncommon, so might be a little difficult to find. Typically you want between 2"-4" of mat on each side of the photo. So the 22x28 frame would yield a 2-1/2" and a 2" border for you 17"x24" print which would work fine. You will need to custom cut the mat as that is a non-standard size. But that is something that is inexpensive to do. Hope that helps.
A lot of photographers I know sign the mat, which is what I do because I prefer my print to occupy the full space (with a 6mm boarded to accommodate the overlap of the mat) but that means that if someone buys your work and has it re-framed, your signature isn't going to be on there.
If you don't have white border between the edge of the mat and the photo, but there is a border around the photo then you can sign in the photo border and cover it up with the mat. If your photos are borderless. Don't do that anymore. :-) It is standard practice to sign the back of the photo in pencil although the pen should work fine as well, and then also sign the back of the mat.
This is a common method for matting fine art prints. The idea is to not permanently damage the print so it could re-matted in the future. There are other matting techniques such as bonding the print to the back mat which are done for cheap prints or ones that aren’t considered fine art.
@@silvestersze9968 the piano hinge method is quite good, it just uses more tape and some think the larger surface area of the tape in the print can lead to more damage if the photo is ever remounted. It is the same basic idea as what I showed.
There are several ways. You can glue the print directly to the backboard, however this is often not archival and is more appropriate for one-offs like for a camera club. It's not suitable for galleries, or for selling your prints. There is also a hot press method for bonding the print to the backboard, it uses a different type of glue and is not necessarily easy to reverse.
Great. So is the t hinge gluing down considered archival? won't the adhesive on the back of the print ruin it once you try and take it off down the line?
Sorry for all the questions lol. My art work that I purchased ranges between $100 - 300 a piece so I just want to make absolutely sure when I mount I'm doing it in the safest way possible.
The t-hinge using tape is considered archival if you use the archival rated tape. It is easily removed if the print ever needs to be re-matted. Using glue to mount it to the backboard can be archival depending on the process. The hot press method can be reversed down the road by heating the print to remove it from the backboard. The t-hinge method is very secure. I've been using it for years on my prints and have never had an issue. It's also much easier than using one of the adhesive methods. Good luck.
Craig how in the world can you use a mat that's cut that doesn't even fit your photograph how can you have quarter inch borders on one side and three quarter inch borders on the top that's not professional.
I'm pretty sure he said in here this was just for a quick method for a show. He said he did cut his own mats to exact sizes when he needed to do something professional.
I mix them up with whatever book is handy. The book is art of the time in the pinup era. It's an important history in art. It was not considered sexist then, and I don't believe in revisionist history of projecting today's views on the past. But thanks for your viewpoint.
![Run Away - Tzuyu(TWICE) ツウィ 쯔위 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 240906](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KnHNNyAYiu0/mqdefault.jpg)
I literally watched ten useless videos until I found you and then you instantly explained how to do it. Thank you so much!
This is the most clear and concise matting tutorial on the internet. Thanks for this!
Straight to the point, thank you! Been dry mounting my fiber prints for decades and need a solution for inkjet, as I'm not convinced heat is appropriate for these inks.
Shawn Ballard took the words right out of my mouth 😂
I noticed you print with large boarders. Now I see why.
Best video yet on this simple but crucial😅 process! Well done!
ive watched so many videos on how to mat and this was 100% the best video ive seen. Thanks so much!
Best tutorial I've found on youtube. Thank you! ❤
This is simple. Finally we have someone who explains it simply. Thank you!
thank you for your simple and straight forward explanation, much appreciated
My first attempt at mounting will be by following this video, so confused with some of the others iv seen.thanks for the simple explanation and visual..
Hi Craig - just had to drop a line to say thank you! A refreshingly clear video on what should be a simple topic (but some people love to overcomplicate it!). All the best.
Love this video ! Simple, basic, easy to follow. Thank you Craig !
Glad it helped!
Thank you very much Mr. Craig for this very helpful and informative step by step matting tutorial. Appreciate it.
Thanks for that, I have been asked to put some of my photography work for sale in a coffee shop, I said I could not be bothered framing them and it was expensive, she said no just mount them without a frame and we can put them on a shelf so people can browse them at their leisure and frame them themselves, I’ve looked at several methods, this is the defintly the best and its quick, thanks.
Thank you, that was helpful for a beginner like me, who had no idea what to do : )
I like your style, no drama.
Thank you for the video. I was invited to do my first ever show in a few months. Have no idea what Im up against, but your tutorial gave me a great idea. Thanks again.
ChillerKane glad it helped. Feel free to ask any questions you might have about while preparing for the show. Be glad to help.
Thank you Craig. I appreciate your help. I may have to take you up on that offer. :)
Best of luck, ChillerKane.
Clear, easy-to-follow directions. Thank you!
Your work is so captivating. Thank you for this great tutorial.
This video is so helpful, simple and it works great!
Really well put together video - thank you Craig!
Excellent . Explained in 6 minutes what others took at least
half an hour of doddering around .! Also didn't use centimetres etc but good old inches .!! I hope the day will never come when US and Britain convert to metric...!
This guide is perfect thank you!
Hello Craig, LOVED THE TUTORIAL! Do you seal up the mat as well or leave it open?
A good concise tutorial. Are you not taking a risk with some artwork/prints by fixing it both top and bottom? This potentially does not allow certain paper types to expand/constrict due to climatic variations and can cause prints to buckle. Just a thought.
❤brilliantly done
Great explanation Craig!
good job bro
Perfect tutorial. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Learned a lot from this tutorial - Many thanks :-)
You should include links to your work in the description of your videos. Just a suggestion. ;)
Amazing stuff!
Nice job.
Excellent...well done! Thanks!
That was clear, thanks. But I believed fine art prints or paintings were best treated with a slightly wider margin at the bottom of the art work. Of course , then it might need to be a hand cut may. Thanks for clarifying this!
Hi Craig, I'm new at cutting mats, etc. but am moving along. What brand tape are you using for attaching the photo? I know it should be 1", double sided, acid free.
this is what I needed--thanks, does that T-tape come off if you want to remat the print? Or is it on the back of the print to stay?
thanks so much --learned a lot!
Very proficient tutorial.
Thank you!
What do you do for under the matte? It’s open? How do you protect it from say dust or anything like that? Great video btw! Very helpful technique!
I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “under the mattte”.
Often this matted photo is put directly into a picture frame with glass front which protects it. Other times I’m taking it to my local camera club for judging and just leave it as is. It’s fairly durable, but even if it gets damaged it’s a one off just for the judging and I will replace the photo with a new one
Does your photo have to have the white trim extra paper around it in order to mat it?
Hi Craig, great video. One question, I also am using the same company for my mat kit. I want to mat a 5x7 photo but the window measures 4.5 x 6.5. how would i crop this in adobe elements? thanks.
You should do a video on matting a 18x24 print and framing it!
I don’t do anything different with an18x24, it just takes up more desk space. :)
@@CraigColvin understood! Lol. My grail piece arrived today and its 18x24. A screen print signed by Drew Barrymore!
Hi Craig, thanks for the quick video. Just wanted to check if i can re use the mat for after the exhibition??
Yes you can. The tape will sometimes pull off the first layer of the mat but because it is hidden by the top mat it’s not an issue
What about ‘dry-mounting’ photos for presentation which I had learned from photography school?
Dry mounting is considered ok for open editions, but it is permanent meaning you can’t remove the print from the backing board. The reason for the method I show is it allows the print to be re-matted without damaging the print. This is preferred for most limited edition fine are prints.
@@Craigcolvinphotography Understood perfectly! 🎉
Nice inexpensive method, thanks! I have used GoldenStateArt years ago and now they have re-opened. So you don't seal the mat closed at the bottom?
Most of my matted prints are going directly into a frame so I don’t bother with the bottom. If I’m entering a print competition at PPA, WPPI, or local camera club I will sometimes put a small piece of double side tape at the bottom.
@@CraigColvin ok thanks, that makes sense, I may just be bagging them, so one piece of double sided tape should be fine.
Isn't Martha 105 years old, she looks great!
so for the bottom part of the matte board and the back board you don't take it together or anything?
No, the photo is attached to the back mat. The hinge at the top keeps the back mat and the front mat aligned. Once it is in a frame it is never an issue.
Just wondering why not cut the window to the correct size?
I often do cut my own mats but it is tedious and often not really necessary. Gallery framing is often not symmetrical around the border of the photo/mat as is considered part of the aesthetic.
That being said cutting your own mats can add a presentation element such as creating negative space.
If you are willing to cut your own mats go for it, but precut mats are preferred by many just because of the ease of use.
Nice 👍
Is that the regular size to get a print 11x17 to fit a 16x20 matt- then what size frame would you buy for this? I am doing my 1st exhibition and have no idea -sizes-and so on.. thanks.. any frame places you recommend? they seem to be a fortune in the stores round here..
Yes, 11x17 in a 16x20 mat. The frame would then be a 16x20 frame.
I purchase all of my frames from www.framedestination.com/
I use the Nielsen Profile 97 frames
www.framedestination.com/picture-frames/metal/nielsen-profile-97.html
I use pre-cut mats from Golden State Art
goldenstateart.com/
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you!
Do you always use white mats for a show?
Can you do this the opposite way?! - Take the tape that you’ve put on the back of the print and tape it to the backing board instead of the mat?
Thank you.
Mahalo Craig!
Where do you tape a vertical photo? The top or side? I have a job interview and need to mat my photos this weekend.
You put the tape and the hinge on the top side. So just take everything I showed and rotate it. You want the mat and the photo to be hanging from the top no matter what orientation.
do you shrink wrap your photos?
I do not shrink wrap them but I do put them in glassine sleeves.
Hi I have a print 24x17, what size of mount and mat could I use? Also what size of frame could I use? I would really appreciate your help.
The idea is to try to find a standard frame size and then work in from that. Standard sizes are going to be a lot cheaper than a custom frame.
It appears the 22x28 is a standard size but uncommon, so might be a little difficult to find.
Typically you want between 2"-4" of mat on each side of the photo. So the 22x28 frame would yield a 2-1/2" and a 2" border for you 17"x24" print which would work fine. You will need to custom cut the mat as that is a non-standard size. But that is something that is inexpensive to do.
Hope that helps.
Craig Colvin Photography Thank you for the advice, much appreciated
I'm super new to this but do you have to sign your actual piece of work or can you just sign the mat?
A lot of photographers I know sign the mat, which is what I do because I prefer my print to occupy the full space (with a 6mm boarded to accommodate the overlap of the mat) but that means that if someone buys your work and has it re-framed, your signature isn't going to be on there.
Where do you sign if you don't have enough white border?
If you don't have white border between the edge of the mat and the photo, but there is a border around the photo then you can sign in the photo border and cover it up with the mat.
If your photos are borderless. Don't do that anymore. :-) It is standard practice to sign the back of the photo in pencil although the pen should work fine as well, and then also sign the back of the mat.
you said your photo was printed on 11x17 paper but what size did you print your image?
Yes I was wondering that as well...
It's all about
the eye. (His eye!)
Is this the typical or conventional way to mat a photographic print?
This is a common method for matting fine art prints. The idea is to not permanently damage the print so it could re-matted in the future. There are other matting techniques such as bonding the print to the back mat which are done for cheap prints or ones that aren’t considered fine art.
@@Craigcolvinphotography Gotcha! Thx a lot.
@@Craigcolvinphotography Your videos are awesome. I just subscribed! 🎉
@@Craigcolvinphotography What about the ‘piano hinge’ method I heard from another artist/photographer?
@@silvestersze9968 the piano hinge method is quite good, it just uses more tape and some think the larger surface area of the tape in the print can lead to more damage if the photo is ever remounted. It is the same basic idea as what I showed.
What brand acid free pen do you use?
I use a PIGMA MICRON 0.5mm pen with black ink.
www.michaels.com/pigma-micron-archival-black-ink-pen/M10255138.html
Craig Colvin Photography thanks.
is there another option besides t hinge for taping it down?
There are several ways. You can glue the print directly to the backboard, however this is often not archival and is more appropriate for one-offs like for a camera club. It's not suitable for galleries, or for selling your prints. There is also a hot press method for bonding the print to the backboard, it uses a different type of glue and is not necessarily easy to reverse.
Great. So is the t hinge gluing down considered archival? won't the adhesive on the back of the print ruin it once you try and take it off down the line?
Sorry for all the questions lol. My art work that I purchased ranges between $100 - 300 a piece so I just want to make absolutely sure when I mount I'm doing it in the safest way possible.
The t-hinge using tape is considered archival if you use the archival rated tape. It is easily removed if the print ever needs to be re-matted.
Using glue to mount it to the backboard can be archival depending on the process. The hot press method can be reversed down the road by heating the print to remove it from the backboard.
The t-hinge method is very secure. I've been using it for years on my prints and have never had an issue. It's also much easier than using one of the adhesive methods.
Good luck.
What inch size tape is this? I believe it ranges in size from half an inch and above.
Use acid free masking tape. Not tyvek tape
I'm certain your video was valuable, however, I couldn't appreciate it fully since I'm deaf and there are no captions.
Craig how in the world can you use a mat that's cut that doesn't even fit your photograph how can you have quarter inch borders on one side and three quarter inch borders on the top that's not professional.
I'm pretty sure he said in here this was just for a quick method for a show. He said he did cut his own mats to exact sizes when he needed to do something professional.
you lost me when you placed a book with pin up photography as the weight -- KNOW YOUR AUDIENCE
Thanks. You should use a different book as a weight - distracting and sexist.
I mix them up with whatever book is handy.
The book is art of the time in the pinup era. It's an important history in art. It was not considered sexist then, and I don't believe in revisionist history of projecting today's views on the past. But thanks for your viewpoint.