The story on those frames is this: I came upon a source for first growth Douglas fir that had, for 80 years, formed the giant beams in a paper mill in a remote town on the north coast of British Columbia. The mill went bust and everything was sold off. A guy barged a few tons of the beams down the coast, to Victoria, BC. I had him rip some into manageable pieces (around 2" x 6") and then, with the help of a friend who owns a woodworking shop, we milled everything into the profile you see in the video. I still have about 800 linear feet. The end grain is incredibly tight and beautiful. To find that today is very rare -- it's all been logged. Ash would make very nice frames, I'm sure.
This is all very familiar as my Dad did his own black and white processing and later had his own color lab prior to doing digital when it came about. He framed his own work.
Something I recently learned: the matting has to be 3 inches for it to be considered archival. 8ve been obsessed with watching these kind of videos lately ❤❤❤❤
Good to hear! Exhibiting your work as prints is a great experience. Long live prints! ruclips.net/video/4k_4oR1NtOQ/видео.html ruclips.net/video/bSpqpOn9wV0/видео.html
This has to be the best framing video on RUclips , thank you! I've got a question, I just framed a massive 66 inch long print and this is what the framing guys used: MDF as a backing board MDF covered in cloth for the window Doble sided tape to attach the photograph to the window Sealed the frame with water activated paper. What would've been the correct way to do it ? Thank you again.
Hi Rodrigo. MDF would be the last thing I'd want near important artworks. It will offgas urea-formaldehyde. Not good. Honestly never heard of MDF as mat. Again, not something I'd use in conservation framing. Larger images can be difficult to keep flat. In that case, there is an argument for dry mounting ... but conservation-grade materials should always be used if archival permanence is the intention. Unless there is a "sacrificial" border, double-sided tape isn't the way to go. The hinging method illustrated in my video is the accepted "reversible" method of attachment. Check out the full tutorial at raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/ Cheers, Raymond raymondparkerphoto.com
Great video! Thank you for this informative walkthrough. Question: what type of ink do you recommend for an edition stamp? I recently got this stuff called Ranger Archival but it is visible on the image side of the print! I'm printing optical enlargements on Fuji Crystal Archive Type-C and Kodak Endura. Thanks for any help :)
Thanks for the question, Joseph. I'm using something called StāzOn, by Tsukinoko. It seems fine. I don't have any bleed through issues with the papers I use: 100% rag papers with average thickness of 310 g/m₂. I also leave a genrerous border around the image so front and "en verso" additions -- signature, stamp and embossing -- don't impinge on the photo area.
@@RaymondParkerPhoto thanks for letting me know. I'll give it a try. Both those Fuji and Kodak RA-4 papers are about 250gsm, so hopefully they'll be heavy enough for that stamp ink. I'll let you know how it goes 😊
Thank you for a very informative video! I'm hoping you could please help with a couple of questions. I'm mounting a 55"x36" print and was going to use 3" archival mounting corners. Are the mounting corners sufficient to hold the print in place to the back board or should I add T-hinges like in your video, if so how many? Also, is there a type of embosser that is preferable for prints and where do you recommend getting one from? Thanks!
Hi, Gerardo. I wouldn't use corners; that wouldn't likely stabilize such a large print. Dry-mounting would likely be advisable at that size. Otherwise, I'd like to see a very generous overlap of the mat on the print ... and make sure the environment where the print is hung is pretty stable in terms of temperature/humidity. You'd want at least half-a-dozen hinges, I'd think. I can't speak to your question about embossing. My only experience is with plaque mounting, which I farm out to shops with that equipment -- for my posters, for instance. shop.raymondparkerphoto.com/collections/posters
@@RaymondParkerPhoto Came back to rewatch your video. Thanks replying. I went with your mounting tips, the artwork is holding up nicely and looks great!
Glad to help. Yes, you could omit the 2-ply mat and just use foamcore in its place (make sure it's acid free). However, I prefer the added protection provided by the hinged 100% rag enclosure. As you see in the video, I use the foamcore as the backing in the aluminum frame. The homemade wooden frame uses an insert over plasticore. More info at the blog page: raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/
Is the t-hinge strong enough to keep such a large print flat? Im asking because Im searching way to keep my darkroom fibre-based prints matted and framed and keep flat at the same time.
The answer to that question depends on print size and print margin (which I like to keep generous). I've been using this method since the 80s when I printed on Ilford Galerie fibre-based paper. In fact, I still have the booklet produced by Ilford illustrating the method. See here: raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/
The magnetic folders, unfortunately, are no longer available from Opus Framing here in Canada. Glad I stocked up. The archival box I use is available from B&H, made by Archival Methods.
Watching this clip was poetry in motion indeed. Thank you @Raymond Parker , best wishes from Auckland , New Zealand
Thank you!
You’re at a completely different level. Very impressive.
Amazing work @raymondparker!! It was amazing meeting you!
Likewise. Appreciate your support and kindness.
That is probably the best video on RUclips coving this topic!!!
Just came across your video as I am making mountain ash wood frames for some prints. Best video I have seen on matting and framing.
The story on those frames is this: I came upon a source for first growth Douglas fir that had, for 80 years, formed the giant beams in a paper mill in a remote town on the north coast of British Columbia.
The mill went bust and everything was sold off. A guy barged a few tons of the beams down the coast, to Victoria, BC. I had him rip some into manageable pieces (around 2" x 6") and then, with the help of a friend who owns a woodworking shop, we milled everything into the profile you see in the video.
I still have about 800 linear feet. The end grain is incredibly tight and beautiful. To find that today is very rare -- it's all been logged.
Ash would make very nice frames, I'm sure.
This is all very familiar as my Dad did his own black and white processing and later had his own color lab prior to doing digital when it came about. He framed his own work.
wow, thank you for illustrating your beautiful method! Beautiful technique for a polished finish.
Glad it was helpful!
Something I recently learned: the matting has to be 3 inches for it to be considered archival.
8ve been obsessed with watching these kind of videos lately ❤❤❤❤
Thank you Raymond! I'm really appreciative of the content and production of this video. Stay well!
Thanks, Bryce. Appreciate the compliment.
Beautiful craftsmanship, sir.
Thank you kindly
Beautifully done. Beautiful music too.
Thank you very much!
Wonderful video - packed with great info! Thank you for creating and sharing it!!
Thanks!
No problem! And thank you!
amazing and so relaxing to watch
Glad you enjoyed it
This video belongs on a museum.
No, literally.
Beautiful video, the best so far on the subject.
Thanks, Mark. Glad it helped.
Great video! Very informative. Im getting ready to prepare my first two prints for a local exhibit sponsored by our University.
Good to hear! Exhibiting your work as prints is a great experience. Long live prints!
ruclips.net/video/4k_4oR1NtOQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/bSpqpOn9wV0/видео.html
incredible work
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
thank you so much for this! video is beautiful and very informative!
babixillo Glad to help.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you, Mark. My pleasure.
This has to be the best framing video on RUclips , thank you! I've got a question, I just framed a massive 66 inch long print and this is what the framing guys used:
MDF as a backing board
MDF covered in cloth for the window
Doble sided tape to attach the photograph to the window
Sealed the frame with water activated paper.
What would've been the correct way to do it ?
Thank you again.
Hi Rodrigo. MDF would be the last thing I'd want near important artworks. It will offgas urea-formaldehyde. Not good. Honestly never heard of MDF as mat. Again, not something I'd use in conservation framing. Larger images can be difficult to keep flat. In that case, there is an argument for dry mounting ... but conservation-grade materials should always be used if archival permanence is the intention. Unless there is a "sacrificial" border, double-sided tape isn't the way to go. The hinging method illustrated in my video is the accepted "reversible" method of attachment.
Check out the full tutorial at raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/
Cheers,
Raymond
raymondparkerphoto.com
Very helpful video. Let’s assume the original print’s aspect ratio is 4:5 or 2:3. What’s the aspect ratio of the final framed piece in this video?
great video, what kind of paper did you cut to make this fantastic white border effect, can I make it at home?
It's mat board, bought from an art store.
Great video! Thank you for this informative walkthrough. Question: what type of ink do you recommend for an edition stamp? I recently got this stuff called Ranger Archival but it is visible on the image side of the print! I'm printing optical enlargements on Fuji Crystal Archive Type-C and Kodak Endura. Thanks for any help :)
Thanks for the question, Joseph. I'm using something called StāzOn, by Tsukinoko. It seems fine. I don't have any bleed through issues with the papers I use: 100% rag papers with average thickness of 310 g/m₂. I also leave a genrerous border around the image so front and "en verso" additions -- signature, stamp and embossing -- don't impinge on the photo area.
@@RaymondParkerPhoto thanks for letting me know. I'll give it a try. Both those Fuji and Kodak RA-4 papers are about 250gsm, so hopefully they'll be heavy enough for that stamp ink. I'll let you know how it goes 😊
What were the reasons behind the aperture distances? They looked like 60% 40%
Is the backing board the same as the window mat? Thanks for the video.
The backing is 2-ply. Then foamcore.
Just watched this video, where did you get the seal embosser?
I had it made.
Thank you for your reply!!
Amazing. Though I must ask why do Framers put small objects in the middle of the picture when framing?
To prevent the print from shifting when they lift the window mat.
You should use the white gloves with the matboard also
The matt board is not handled in any area that will come in contact with the print surface.
Thank you for a very informative video! I'm hoping you could please help with a couple of questions. I'm mounting a 55"x36" print and was going to use 3" archival mounting corners. Are the mounting corners sufficient to hold the print in place to the back board or should I add T-hinges like in your video, if so how many? Also, is there a type of embosser that is preferable for prints and where do you recommend getting one from? Thanks!
Hi, Gerardo. I wouldn't use corners; that wouldn't likely stabilize such a large print. Dry-mounting would likely be advisable at that size. Otherwise, I'd like to see a very generous overlap of the mat on the print ... and make sure the environment where the print is hung is pretty stable in terms of temperature/humidity. You'd want at least half-a-dozen hinges, I'd think.
I can't speak to your question about embossing. My only experience is with plaque mounting, which I farm out to shops with that equipment -- for my posters, for instance. shop.raymondparkerphoto.com/collections/posters
@@RaymondParkerPhoto Came back to rewatch your video. Thanks replying. I went with your mounting tips, the artwork is holding up nicely and looks great!
@@GerardoM_com Great! Thanks for coming back to report on your experience. What process did you go with?
@@RaymondParkerPhoto Can't recall how many, but I applied a generous amount of hinges as well as large mounting corners.
If those would be darkroom prints then it would be the best framing video ever!
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/4k_4oR1NtOQ/видео.html
Thank You very much for posting this. I wanted to ask, is the 2 ply blank for base mount the same as what I might use foam backer board for?
Glad to help. Yes, you could omit the 2-ply mat and just use foamcore in its place (make sure it's acid free). However, I prefer the added protection provided by the hinged 100% rag enclosure. As you see in the video, I use the foamcore as the backing in the aluminum frame. The homemade wooden frame uses an insert over plasticore.
More info at the blog page: raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/
Hi Raymond. What size thickness foam core backing board do you typically use? 3/16 1/8?
Acid-free 1/8".
Nicely done!
Love the video. Where can I purchase an Edition stamp and seal of authenticity? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the video, Jacqueline. I had mine made at a local stamp shop (the seal a simplified version of my logo).
Quick question: what kind of ink do you use for stamping? If the pen should be archival, should the stamp too?
All archival inks.
@@RaymondParkerPhoto Do you have any brand to recommend? I'm thinking of using Range Archival Inks
I recently switched to Ranger pads for the stamp.
@@RaymondParkerPhoto nice!! i'll try those. Thanks!!
Excellent !
Is the t-hinge strong enough to keep such a large print flat? Im asking because Im searching way to keep my darkroom fibre-based prints matted and framed and keep flat at the same time.
The answer to that question depends on print size and print margin (which I like to keep generous). I've been using this method since the 80s when I printed on Ilford Galerie fibre-based paper. In fact, I still have the booklet produced by Ilford illustrating the method. See here: raymondparkerphoto.com/printing-matting-and-framing-photographic-prints-to-archival-standards/
what brand are those gloves? where I can buy those gloves? link please.
Do you have a video about float mounting artwork?
Sorry, no.
Where and how can I get the materials used ?
Depends where you are. Try art supply store or order online?
Great video, thank you very much ♥️
Thanks and glad you liked it.
merci de france
NOT WORRIED about the print sticking to the glass?
That's not possible. Please watch the video.
need spill all the brand especially that printer
Where do you get the Black storage cases/folder?
The magnetic folders, unfortunately, are no longer available from Opus Framing here in Canada. Glad I stocked up. The archival box I use is available from B&H, made by Archival Methods.
Nice & Thank you :)
You're welcome. Glad you like it.
It would help better with vioce explanation
That may well be. However, this video is the second most successful on this channel both in terms of views and retention rate.
Eggsalent!
I want to print a picture by you.....special requirement....please tell me how can I contact you.