A Good Way To Insulate Your Basement Walls
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- If you want to help support Shannon to produce more videos like this, visit www.house-improvements.com/do...
Shannon from www.house-improvements.com shows you one of his preferred ways to insulate a basement wall using rigid styrofoam and fiberglass batt insulation.
Links to the other videos related to this video:
- How to attach rigid foam to concrete • How To Attach Rigid Fo...
- Framing a basement wall • Framing A Basement Wall
- How to install batt insulation & vapor barrier • How To Install Batt In...
If you have questions about your home improvement projects, stop by the forum on our website, where Shannon will answer your questions in detail for free.
Website: www.house-improvements.com
Facebook: / 180657245288627
Twitter: / house_improve
Video © 2016 SKS Media. Videos produced by SKS Media (House-Improvements.com) are provided for informational purposes only. The information contained in the videos is intended to give general guidance to simplify DIY (do it yourself) projects. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, SKS Media cannot and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, SKS Media will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional. SKS Media conducts all matters in accordance with the laws of Saskatchewan, Canada. 
Хобби
watching your videos is both therapeutic and educational. What a gold nugget your channel is
Basement recess light
I’ve learned so much from you and your videos. Probably my favorite channel to learn from. You’ve helped me build a couple of decks, and a shed for my new home. You do a great job of explaining everything so anyone can understand it. Keep doing what you do!
No other videos compare to these. I learn a ton every time i watch them. Great work and thank you!
I followed this method to insulate my basement walls & also insulated rim joists. It feels so comfortable now, the temperature is the same as the main level in my house, plus I cut my winter heating bill in half...I used to have a 5000W electric heater that would be on almost 50% of the time to maintain a mere 60 degrees in the winter. Now the heat pump alone is providing enough heat for the whole house for a fraction of the cost...
Where is the heat pump located that it heats the entire house and the basement? At 50% of 5000W, did it translate to 2500W used?
@@gtarules1 The heat pump is your normal setup, heat pump outside, air handler is in the basement. Ducts run through the floor between basement and main floor, and I have vents for both the main floor and the basement coming off the single air handler. Basement was un-insulated so yes, i would need 2500W on average in cold winter days to maintain the basement warm. I have a walk-out basement, so 3 walls are not under-ground, and 1 wall is. There was so much heat loss through the 3 walls that are not below grade. Just 8 inches of concrete block offer an R value of around 1.5. Now the R value of my walls is around 20 (foam board + batt insulation). Using a heat pump with 300% efficiency and insulated walls, the 2.5 ton heat pump is enough to keep the 2000 sq.ft. of space heated, i no longer need to use the 5000W shop heater. On cold winter months, my electric bill used to be around 3000 kWh. Now it rarely exceeds 1500 kWh in the winter. In my area where the kWh averages 16 cents in the winter, that equates to $240 in savings.
Great video, I'm in the process of creating a basement laundry area based on this video and a few of your other videos. Keep up the good work!
thanks
Thanks! Great video...glad I found your channel, starting to insulate rim joist and finish an unfinished basement. Great job!
Great video Shannon, keep it up. I've learned alot from your videos over the last few years.
Thank you for this video. It was extremely helpful for me to insulate my basement. The frame was done but the previous home owner did not finish it.
This is a really great video. Keep in mind everyone that things change depending on codes and climate in your area.
Thank you for explaining terms & reasoning. Awesome info & good presentation!!
Nice thanks you. Straightforward, no shilling
Would love to see a video on basement steel stud framing, info on all the difference pieces that go with steel stuffing and tips to installing it. Considering remodeling my basement with steel studs.
Another video I watched (Risinger?) Said because steel prices are high going back to wood (pressure treated I guess) is now becoming standard.
I've watched two of your videos and like how you teach/educate. You appear very knowledgeable on these topics and professional. What's even better is that you're not one of those ... ahem; flamboyant/arrogant "LOOK AT ME! I'm THE MAN!" Good stuff; thanks for taking time out to share. I subscribed and will be watching others too.
Thanks for subbing Kevin, check out our forum as well if you like. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
ty so much shannon your videos are terrific for beginners
You are the only person I dont mind the head interviews.
Thanks again Shannon good work like always. 👍
Excellent, had to tear down a wall to remove our old heating oil tank hidden behind. Glued that same foam to the concrete and framed with 2x3 about an inch away from it. Was wondering if it was a good idea to add 6mil vapor barrier on top and you just answered that instantly.
Thanks! Awesome video.
Great and to the point . No jibber jabber simple to understand
I always trust your construction tips.
God bless and may you live long to help people like me..your vid are Just too explanatory ,I've learnt alot from your vids raging from tools n make work being perfect..God bless again ..!!
Thanks for this information
Great video.
Do you everything step by step from scratch
First time at your channel
i was told to use a sill seal under the plate , just to get that wood off the concrete and make a better water or moisture barrier. i am using 2 in recycled foam board ( less than half the cost of new) and 2x3 studs with R 15 . its probably over kill. but should be nice and warm in the cold winter in northern NY. cheers.
Very helpful!
Thank you!
Good stuff. I build entire shed from some your videos
+t dub glad to help!
Good job
+Qinggui Meng thanks
Hi, great video. Do I need brush/paint with concrete isolation liquid before I install star-foam, or I can install the star-foam directly on bare basement concrete wall?
Hi Shannon - thanks for another great video. I love your channel! I agree with many of the other commentators on this video, the poly vapor retarder is a problem. Since the XPS insulation is also a vapor retarder, now you have wood framing between 2 vapor retarders. Any moisture in the plane of the framing is trapped and will eventually rot and mold the wood framing. Better to use 2" of XPS and leave the stud cavities empty. I have used this method before and had good results.
+Edward Dueppen The whole idea is to keep moisture out in this setup, I do understand the concerns but it has worked well for me and others.
+Edward Dueppen You are right, but IIRC 1" of XPS is not considered a vapor retarder much... 2" yes. Anyway, still better than putting batts directly on concrete walls.
I know this is an older video. I’m doing a reno on my lower level which is half block and the upper part is framed on the block. Funny thing is after I tore out the walls, all that was there was 3/4 of soft foam board between strapping with foil and the upper was bat insulation with the paper face and a paper over that covering the studs and painted wood panelling. No moisture or mold. Been like that for over 40 years. I’ll be doing some waterproofing from inside the house using the membrane into the foundation after it’s broken up. I notice hydrostatic pressure in the lower block. So I’ll be getting that fixed all the way around the basement on that third level. I’m in southwestern Ontario where it’s pretty hot and humid in the summer and the winters can be cold but are short. I’m going to use foam board along the lower portion of the block wall and then frame my walls after sealing up the foam board seams. I want to use Rockwool For the insulation in the walls. I may spray foam the upper cavities because it’s deeper And use Rockwool over that. I’m at a crossroads with the vapour barrier. I don’t wanna have any moisture problems. I just want to know if it would be OK just to install the Rockwool between the studs and then drywall over it and finish? I’ll be taking the time to seal all the cracks and crevices along the way. What are your thoughts on the vapour barrier not being used? I have a fourth level that has Rockwool in between metal studs and there’s no vapour barrier and have not had any moisture issues at all. That lower level is fully in the ground.
You fall in a climate region where you may get away with it or you may not. Basically follow your local building code regulations.
The Vapour Barrier got me confused. I been researching it and the technology varies. Everyone is using a different method
great video
+Moses Kirkland Thank you
Thanks
hi I like your video it is helped me
Nice to find a channel with common sense used in the videos.
I appreciate that!
@@HouseImprovements So do I.
Great video. If I install and seal the ridged insulation on the basement walls then install fibreglass batting do I still need to use acoustical caulking on the vapour barrier?
I had a new home built. They insulate the first upper 4'. So I have to do foam board on the lower portion which is well below freeze level. Could I use 1/2". Then install batt and barrier. Or would 1" be the min? Thanks.
Hi Shannon thx for making these great videos! Have a question for you, I live in northern ontario were frost is a big factor, if im putting styrofoam all the way down the wall will the pressure from the frost cause a break in the foundation as there is no escape? What is your opinion on the matter ? Should i have cause for concern?
Great video as always Shannon...
Questiom for you Im in Midwest reageon looking to insulate a 3 floor brick wall can I get away with instaling 1.5" frame wood frame on top of that and no Batt or plastic?
What do you do if you have a floating slab with a inch gap around the perimeter of the floor? Do you keep the insulation up an inch or two from the floor grade?
Thanks,
Ross
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for the great video. Just a quick question. If I am remodelling my basement in stages. Is there a temporary way to cover the rigid foam up after its been installed on the walls (re: fire code) so that its not exposed while I frame, and drywall.
You said spray foam would be better, I don't think this couple that had to have their roof removed in order to get rid of the dangerous foam would agree. I wish there were more videos on using rigid closed cell foam boards combined with bat insulation as that is what I am thinking about doing and if something goes wrong it is easy to remove. For me I am trying to insulate a garage with a room above so thinking 2" rigid foam sealed around with spray foam from a can to stop air flow then followed with bat insulation. Being the rigid board would stop moisture I would not think I need to add any type of water barrier like house wrap at the garage side, but these are the things I would like talked about in a video. I am not sure if water vapor that comes from the garage side through the Sheetrock then the bat insulation and then stopped at the rigid board is an issue or not. On the inside I would think the AC dehumidifier affect would take care of any moisture issue, but again love to see these type of topics discussed on future videos.
ruclips.net/video/0Hh5MYv7lWc/видео.html
Hey Shannon. Love your videos. I’m in Montreal and about to start reframing my recently gutted basement due to mold. I was planning on adhering 1” rigid foam board to the concrete foundation then 2x3 framing in front of that and was going to squeeze in some rockwool in the cavities. Do you think that would suffice for our harsh winters? Thanks and keep up the good work.
That will work fine. Be sure your using R 14 minimum . 2x3s are too narrow for the Roxul depth but just frame the front edge of the framing out at 5" off the concrete and you should be fine unless your concert walls are really crooked or out of plumb then you may need to be out just a bit more.
have a question about using rigid foam insulation in the basement. I am not going to finish the basement. I'm just trying to get some additional insulation on the concrete walls. When we get a ton of rain (several inches in a day or two) some water does seep into the basement . We do have a sump pump for draining our dehumidifier and so I can sweep excess water into the pump after heavy rain. My question is, should I leave a half inch gap between the foam boards and the basement floor, as oppose to, setting the foam boards directly on to the floor? My thought is this will better allow the water to come in so I can continue sweeping it into the sump after heavy rains.
Hey H.I. !
Does your method meet code for fire blocking?
Specifically, can insulating foam panels be installed between the concrete block wall and the front studs for the drywall without any fire blocking except at the top plate?
At the top plate, must there be fire blocking for the entire wall depth (the studs and the foam areas)?
Shannon - like the video about insulating and framing a concrete wall in the basement. Is it the same process for block as it is for poured?
Great Channel Good job so far guys.
Question: since rigid foam acts as a vapour barrier could you use rigid foam on the inside of the house instead of vapour barrier to add even more R-Value if you can't place it against the wall because the framing is already up?
+88TheDuke77 If you used at least 2" ,most areas will allow that as a vapour barrier ,check with your local building inspection branch.
Hey Shannon. Your videos are great. Do you have any notes for a stepped concrete wall (concrete and then wood above). The wood area already has fiberglass insulation. I want to insulate the concrete with rigid and then I want to frame a wall in front. Do you suggest any extra work or just making the wood fit around the rigid. There will be nothing load bearing in the wall.
Very worthy to hear your presentation. How much do u spent to renovate a basement into 2 bedroom plus living room with open concept kitchen by contractor. Tks
I have a newly built addition and I would like to do this type of finish down the road. Can I use this method on a cinder/concrete block wall? (The video looks to be poured concrete) If so, is it necessary to apply roll on water proofing prior to foam board? (2/3 is below grade but has been waterproofed on exterior per code)
Do I have to put a plastic vapor barrier before drywall? I have foam board, frame and electric done. Ready to add the batting.
Love your channel and wealth of knowledge you provide us!
I’m in Petawawa, Ontario and insulating basement block walls. I’m going with 2” xps foam board glued to the block and sealed/tapped. Then 2x4 framed wall with Roxul insulation.
Question is do I need 6mill poly over the framed wall before I drywall?
Or am I risking trapping moisture?
There are so many varying opinions!
In most areas building code still requires it. Check your local code office.
What product did you seal the Styrofoam joints with? Caulking or low expansion foam?
Can Styrofoam panels be glued to concrete, or do you recommend fasteners? Why?
My basement is unfinished with a 90 year old poured foundation. There are small cracks that allow water in seasonally. After a couple days, it seeps out through small cracks in the floor. No biggie (been that way longer than I've been alive, likely). While I don't intend to upgrade the basement to living space, I would like to insulate the part above ground level (inside).
Suggestions?
Looks great! I noticed you didn't put any fire blocking on your framing. Is there a reason for not adding? Or maybe you will add it later? The reason I point this out is I've heard something about not needing blocking when you insulate this way. Love your videos!!
+KimJasonE Not required in my situation.
Hi ,
You put both the rigid foam and the other isolation ? Or one of them ? Thank you for all your videos
Wouldn't recommend the vapor barrier after the batts, its just going to trap moisture between the rigid foam and the barrier
+NaturalScott Required by code unless your foam is 2" thick.
+HouseImprovements interesting and probably just cheaper to buy the thinner rigid foam and the vapor barrier, than 2" foam and no barrier. thanks Shannon!
I do believe the "thinking" about having the rigid insulation isn't about insulation, it is about water diversion. Correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't a homewrap do the same thing? Granted, you do have an extra 1" of insulation
@@HouseImprovements Money well $pent
Thanks for video. Can I make barrier ( 1 inch. Or more) between poly vapor and drywall? (Air tunnel). Or it’s waste time and money?
Shannon, would you use the foam insulation for a basement that has cinder block walls? My thought was to use Dry-Lock on the cinder block and then put foam insulation up.
I am buying a 1946 house where part of the cinder block basement has no house above it. Just a concrete slab which serves as a porch. I’m worried about that area being extra cold and having condensation issues. Would it make sense to glue the foam board panels on the walls AND the slab ceiling? Should I also add 2x4’s across the ceiling (attached to the walls) and staple paper faced batts up there? I’d really like to make the room into a usable a workshop for myself and not have to worry about moisture and mold.
I have a 4 inch gap between the concrete wall and the stud frame because of pvc pipes running all around my basement walls. How would you recommend insulating that?. Thank you.
Hey, been watching your vids, Nd on this particular vid....juat curious why you do the plastic vapor barrior when you already have the xps. Thanks.
i think its redundant. if you have continuous foam insulation there is no cold condensing surface and you are air tight as well. so if anything you will create a chance for vapor to get stuck.
My house foundation is stone and mortar but in some places it is not even, how can I go about that if I want to use this material? Any other choice?
Hi do you put any kind of water proofing paint before you install the foam boards?
If I have a preexisting framed wall, can I just cut the rigid foam in between the studs?
I have a question I have heard from other guys in the trade to use 1.5 or 2 in foam board to make it a moisture barrier. They where in the northeast and I’m in the north Midwest. So is 1 in good enough and is that what was for your particular code? I mean there is like a 5 buck difference. As well how would one adhere it to a uneven/curved wall? And I think this is for outer walls only or interior ones not connected to the soil area?
Hi. We have a cement block building in South Louisiana, all above grade. We currently have a moisture problem, there is no barrier or insulation between the cement and the studs. It’s cement, framing, Sheetrock. What would be best for us to go back with to curb our moisture problem?
I have r-22 up against the concrete with a 2x4 wall. I'm wondering if I put r-10 rigid behind there and then compress the r-22 into the 2x4 I would get enough r-value still. I just don't want to throw out the r-22 ... any help would be great.
Could you adapt this method to sheath a house "from the inside" that had the sheathing ruined by a flood without removing the brick. Yes it would have to be held with adhesive, there would be cutting sliding pieces around brick ties, caulking etc, and a lot of taping in odd angles, as well as things that would have to be done to give it more structured support,but I think it could it be done. The reason I ask is I have heard flood insurance polices are paying for homes built with older gypsum sheath, but they are only paying out a small amount. they don't want to pay to have all the brick removed, they pay for a method that uses a tar paper looking sheet and its screwed to the studs then a spray foam is sprayed, it is either cut to slide between brick ties or new replacement ties are put in that don't look safe, It also seems they leave the studs exposed with no moister barrier. I am afraid this is what they are going to try to sell me on, if these boards are flexable enough and light enough they seem better.
Would this method be effective if I have painted concrete brick walls? Does the paint matter?
Great videos Shannon. Can you advise why you are using a double vapour barrier please. The rigid foam is already a moisture barrier?
1" foam does not have a perm rating that is low enough to be rated as a vapour barrier. It is acting as insulation and the moisture barrier in this position. Vapour barrier and moisture barrier are not the same thing. Some areas will even allow the use of 2" foam as the moisture barrier, I would advise not taping the seams in that case however.
I was wandering the resound that the poly plastic is used ? his it to prevent the hot hair in the basement to come in contact with the cold hair?
Hi Shannon, Thanks for the video. Nice to see some SK contractors on RUclips. If you have the money for extra insulation, would it be worth it to put up 2x8 stud walls in the basement??? Or would that be overkill??? Thanks For Your Time: Shawn
Is it necessary to put the rigid foam insulation as well as the gyprock
Shannon - Thanks for all your great videos. We redid our bathroom with your vidieos. Now we are working on our basement. My question is how do you do fire blocking with the foam board. My county requires fire blocking vertically every 10 ft. Do I need to do the fire blocking before Installing the foam board or can I do it after?
Glad our videos have been helpful. You can post this question in my free forum and we can discuss it there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Hello, Shannon. I learned so much from your video. I am finishing my basement after watching your video but I have a question. Do I need an air gap between the rigid foam and the stud? Or can stud touch the rigid foam?
Your better off if there is a slight air gap. I like to place my framing about 1" from the foam. This will help account for unplumbed concrete or crooked concrete walls also.
Should you also use masonry waterproofer on the concrete first, and then use the foam board? Or can the waterproofer be left out?
Also, how should you frame if there is a trench around the basement floor? Does the frame go to the edge of the trench, or directly up against the wall? Thanks so much
How long to get an answer
@@maritaeybergen2535 5 years
New subscriber. Enjoy the vids! Question: I have a large unfinished basement. For a number of reasons, I'm thinking of putting up a room "away" from the foundation walls (cinder block). At least a foot away from the wall....so somewhat "free standing". I know I need to check with code, but is there any disadvantage to doing it this way? No foundation wall will be "closed" in...so I'm thinking I don't need to insulate or do a barrier directly on it.
hmm, interesting. I can't see a reason you could not do that? please use my forum for further questions if they arise.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Hi Shannon, as always great video!
A quick question, would the ones sold at Lowes or homedepot do the job? or would you recommend another place?
If you are referring to insulation, yes they will work as good as any.
Hey Shannon !
Is there a retrofit product that is say a 2-inch foam board bonded to a layer of paper (similar to drywall) that can be glued and anchored to plaster walls, and then be finished with paint or wallpaper ?
If so, does this meet fire blocking code ?
Not that I know of.
Would this method work for Concrete brick wall ?
If i use the 2" foam do i still need to use batts of insulation? Not concerning the R value because I think the foam board alone will be sufficent in R value for my application, but I am just wondering if the void between the foam and drywall will cause any problems if it is not filled with batts of insulation? Thanks for the video, very informative.
if you live in a colder climate then I would add more insulation then the 2" foam. If not then it should not cause a problem if the foam is well installed and sealed.
Does this work behind a fireplace (if covered with a thermal barrier - like sheetrock)? Or does it still risk the chance of melting.
should be fine as long as you follow the fireplace clearance recommendations
Do you have to do bat insulation or could you just drywall?
Hi Shannon thanks for all your great videos! Question on the foam board.. in a bilevel home in winnipeg. If i were to use the foam as my moisture barrier on the lower 4 feet (concrete) what would be the best way to end the moisture barrier onto the wood framing higher portion of the basement wall?? Or would a standard 6 mil poly moisture barrier be the best option in my case? Thanks again!
cover the lower portion and ledge of the wall with foam and seal with spray foam.
@@HouseImprovements thanks Shannon! Great videos!! Very informative and sound advice! Keep them coming!
How does this work if I have steel I-Beams for bracing the walls? Just work around them do the insulation between the beams?
Please post your question on my forum with a picture or two and we can help from there. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
How good is the vapor barrier if you have to cut holes in it for the electrical box? Do you need to seal that area around the electrical box or something?
Yes all penetrations must be sealed
I love watching your videos! I have a drain tile system in my basement, if I were to use foam boards on my walls, would I put it right on top of my drain tile? I’m worried that it will block water if it ever comes in to find its way to the drain tile system? Thank you for your help
Just stop the foam a 1/2" or so off the floor and dont seal the bottom.
@@HouseImprovements ok I will do that. Thank you!!
Would this be an acceptable method for insulating basement in New England?
What is the reason for 1 inch FOAMULAR CodeBord versus the 1.5 or 2 inch?
cost
About 3 months ago someone asked you the following but you did not reply:
What about a block basement, which are more common in older type homes like mine. Could you please explain the most benefit insulation/moisture barrier and where it doesn't kill the pocket book. My basement man cave is 422 sqft. Please and thanks.
I would like to know as well.
Thanks
Some people recommend leaving a 1/2" gap between the foam board and concrete to allow air flow if any moisture gets back there. Do you agree with that approach?
My rim joists are insulated with foam board. If I were to use this system, where should the 1" foam panel end? I assume Ill want to avoid enclosing the rim joist air pocket between 2 layers of foam board.
I don't recommend a space behind the foam.
Stop the wall foam at the bottom of the joists.
Any thoughts on where to buy that tongue and groove foam board...? Nobody seems to carry it anymore... just square edges. Thanks!
Lowe's still does
@HouseImprovements: You said the rigid foam is a vapor barrier, but then you also mention toward the end that you need the plastic sheet vapor barrier over the batt insulation. I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't have multiple vapor barriers. Is there a risk of condensation in the batt insulation?
I think the rigid foam acts as the moisture or vapor barrier, whereas the plastic sheeting acts as an air barrier. Makes me wonder now as well....?
@@Ahnen03 That foam insulation is vapor permiable.
Is there any reason this method can't work for a bi-level home? I'm wondering how to tackle the ledge/sill plate.
Yes this will work there as well. Try my forum if you need more assistance . www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Shannon...Why not use screws as they hold better and won't eventually work their way out with any movement such as the install of the drywall or other things?
Ron
+ron price I assume you are referring to the framing. You could use screws for this type of none structural framing if you want. Use the proper nails and there is no problem.
Can this method be used when you have some moisture thats exciting the concrete wall, the white stuff.
+ThunderDivine if its minor, other wise you may need some water proofing on the exterior of the wall
HouseImprovements
Thanks, yeah it is minor, like no water or feelable moisture.
I was told that if I use a 2 inch rigid foam barrier that I do not need to put a plastic barrier on my stud wall . I live in Canada . I would like to know what you think great video thank
That all depends on your local inspection office and what they will accept or not. In my city in Southern Saskatchewan they still want to see a air/vapour barrier even over 2" rigid foam. In the future I think I will use one of the "smart barriers" that have come out in the last few years. They will allow the wall to breath if it is needed. Certainteed is one brand that has one.
Thanks so much for your videos/channel, I'm a new subscriber. We just moved to a cottage in NB. It's insulated, but I don't think to code. The basement is poured concrete, all open, and we want to insulate (ourselves) and frame out 4 rooms or so. I got a quote for spray foam today (4k for about 900 sq feet)...eek. I've priced the foam board (Foamular) and pink insulation at Home Depot and it's a lot less than the spray foam...just wondering, what kind of wood do you use for the framing? Also in an earlier video, you mentioned vapour barrier under the floor plate (so the wood doesn't touch the concrete)...if you use pressure treated wood, do you still need to put a vapour barrier under the floor plate? Thanks so much!
You can use a PT bottom plate and regular lumber for everything above that. No barrier needed between the PT plate and concrete. Make sure any fasteners driven through the bottom plate to hold studs or fasten plate to the floor are ok to use through PT lumber . they will be designated as ACQ approved.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks so much for your reply. I never even considered ACQ approved for PT lumber. I'm happy for the information. Have a great day!
Should I dryloc my basement concrete before applying formboard?
Just wondering why you would not use 2" thick XPS which should yield R10 approx then build out with your firing strips with no fiberglass and just sheet rock? Seems like it would save a step and give you the insulation. What is the major reason not to? TIA
I think TOH have a video using that technique.. but they use strapping instead of 2x4
when putting the moisture barrier on there, its OK to use non pressure treated lumber for the studs since its not direct contact with the concrete correct?
yes.