I would sew the webbing to the foam assembly the whole length instead of just in three places for a couple of reasons. By fully attaching the webbing you eliminate any friction that would lead to unnecessary wear. I'm also thinking that it would distribute the weight down the strap. One thing I would reconsider if I was you is the width of the webbing. The wider the webbing, the more comfortable the bag will be because of weight distribution.... pounds per square inch and all that. Isn't that what we all want, to carry more stuff with less fatigue? I do like the little straps for sunglasses. They would be a handy place for keys, just add a carabiner! xoxo from Arizona
Thanks, Suzi! There are about a million ways to do this, and they all have up and downsides. These straps went on a daily carry-style pack (you can see the finished pack in my "best backpack ever made" video), and for the kind of loads they will see, the webbing works well. But yes, wider webbing should help transfer weight more effectively, if needed. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know, six years later. Anyway, instead of using a match, I've used the output of a 'hot air station' which is normally used on soldered circuit boards. The air station allows you to actually set the temperature of the hot air, to within a degree; also one sets the velocity of the air speed coming from the nozzle; the user also chooses from a wide variety of nozzle sizes, so being that the air output is completely under control - even to the size of the area that the nozzle hits - to the temperature, to a set degree - to the amount of air coming out. It's really sophisticated, so that the chance of burning nylon needlessly is reduced more than tenfold. I use a 3/8" nozzle, but I have a 1/4" too, among what was included with the station. I just subscribed to your channel, I'm intending to do one of your projects soon. Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
That hot air station sounds interesting! I'm not familiar with that and don't know if it is something that is commonly available to most home sewists, but it's good to know there are other alternatives. Thanks for sharing!
@@thejasonofalltrades That is interesting. They are not exactly ubiquitous, but also not unusual. Most common use is for melting solder in order to remove micro-components on circuit boards. The temperature has to be relatively focused within a certain range and the air speed as well, in order to only melt the solder around the one micro-component. I've used mine to shrink heat-shrink tubing and to remove labels from items though; there's no law saying how to use it. This one from Amazon would be similar to what you'd need, it comes with three tips for the nozzle, 8mm, 10mm, & 13mm; temperature range 212°-932°F; air speed 0-120lpm (liters per minute). There is an LED display that shows the temperature setting. It has something mine doesn't, three presets. Once you know the melting point of your nylon, you can set a preset to return to the same settings. The nozzle goes into a 'holster' on the side of the control unit and has a magnetic switch that turns it off when it's holstered. You turn off the nozzle by putting it back in its holster. On mine the cord is about 36" or so, this one is similar. www.amazon.com/YIHUA-959D-Digital-Efficiency-212°F-932°F-Iron-burn/dp/B08BK3M6YW There are a good number of units on Amazon and elsewhere online that all have very similar features. Also you can order different tips for it if the three that come with it aren't enough. I don't know how much melting you do, but if you do it frequently, you can use this device to replace your lighter/candle/matches, and get a huge improvement in results. The one I have isn't like that one, it's a combo unit, with a soldering attachment and a power supply. You don't need that stuff. If you're curious, mine has similar features but with the added combined gadgets, & it is this one (made by the same company). I've had it a few years: www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4GPM66 I don't know but if you'd benefit from one of these, but it seems to me that if you do a good amount of melting, and you're already using a hot knife, this might be a useful tool for you. Possibly. Hope I didn't flood you with too much info, but these things are really sophisticated devices and pretty impressive. I can actually set the air temperature to the degree (at least that's what the display says). The speed of the airflow is controlled by a radio knob on the front panel. They're really neat devices. If you get one from Amazon and don't like it, they're really very tolerant about taking returns with free shipping (I think you get more than 30 days to return something) and you just drop it off at a UPS kiosk. I hope this small bit of information and helpfulness can in some tiny way return that helpfulness that you've provided me and others who benefit from your informative and interesting content.
One comment, probably more for beginner sewists. When sewing on curves, especially tight curves, shorten your stitch length for a nice curve and easier maneuvering around the curve.
Great tutorial! Recently bought what I thought was a wheeled backpack but it came without straps. After a brief look online I decided it would be cheapest and least wasteful to make and add straps myself. Just had a hunt through my supplies and I have stuff I can work with. Thanks for the inspiration!
Alternatively, I think you could top stitch the foam between the two layers of fabric, clip the edges and then top stitch the same nylon webbing as binding around the outer edge. I know it can be difficult to turn some things inside out, especially with thick fabric. If you use that technique though might be best to switch out for a zipper foot to avoid sewing through the foam itself and make the binding easier to sew. Great video! Exactly what I was looking for 👌
Sewing the external strap to padded strap: sew the sides of the padded, turn right side out, put in your foam *and* the external strap. (This is when I'd put those three seams you put in to keep the external strap aligned.) Then finish both ends of the padded strap. Maybe fold the end of the foam down 1/2" sew the ends of the padded strap closed and secure what was the external strap; which is now a concealed strap, then work the foam piedce flat and snug against the seam. And if concealing the weight bearing strap, you could cut it for the angles of the controured strap and X-box them baxk together in the appropriate angles before putting them inside with the foam.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! This video is not one of my newer ones - I'm continuously striving to improve the production value, with varying results lol.
About the technique you use to stitch the nylon webbing on the bottom of your strap, it’s called a box stitch (stitch a square then an X in the middle)
Your videos are awesome. I've been using the foam from old computer bags for my padding. It works great and there are a lot of old, big computer bags with tons of padding. Hey thanks for the videos. Think about wearing a white sweater when you show us black fabric. It might be easier for us to see more. Your close ups helped a lot, though. Thank you.
Thanks so much! Good point on the sweater - I'm constantly learning from my mistakes, so hopefully this one won't be repeated! I've been meaning to do a video on scavenging existing items to get raw materials for projects, your computer bag for padding is a great idea! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
That's a great idea. I'm a scavenger out of necessity. I just recently learned how to sew and I'm into making the best backpack. But all the gear is expensive or hard to find. I get backpack zippers by seam ripping them out of old backpacks. I've not been able to find two way zippers anywhere! Not even online. But there are plenty of old backpacks in the world and cheap at Salvation Army! And those same back packs have lots of buckles and other plastic and webbing I can use. I will be interested in what you do. Thank you for replying.
Hi, Thanks! Yes, many others have commented about the black strap/black shirt. To the extent that the reason matters, this is an old video of mine, filmed when I was using a camera with no front-facing monitor, and by the time I realized the mistake, the entire video was shot. I appreciate the feedback, as it helps me to continue to improve my videos! Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial. I just learnt to make a bag pack but made simple straps. I really wanted to learn to sew these types and luckily I found this video. But could you explain step by step how to attach it to the bag and also how to make the entire bag. Will that presser foot fit on any machine? Thanks. You are a great help.
Hi Angelyn, I had been planning a complete backpack project video, and I got a little off track, but I still intend to get one made. In the meantime, I have a video on how the bottom of the straps gets attached, and the top part of the straps can just be sewn in between the back panel and the side gusset. Alternatively, you can sew a strip of webbing across the back panel where you want to attach the straps. This can be seen in some of my other backpack videos, but you'll have to go hunting for it, sorry! Thanks for your patience, hopefully I can get a backpack project video together in the near future!
I need shoulder straps on my paraglider stuff sack. This is the perfect tutorial for me to learn how to make them. Thanks my man ! Juki ddl 5550 Consew 227
Thanks for watching! I spent a lot of the 1990s jumping out of airplanes, and I really want to try powered paragliding sometime. Good luck with your project!
Good video: thank you! (Might I also suggest that you avoid wearing a black sweater when the subject item is also black, especially for a dimly lit shop...). 🤔
Thanks! And to be fair, you're a good 7 years late with excellent advice lol. I've tried to do better in videos since this one 😁 Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have you tried sewing the 3D mesh padding? Every time I sew a hip belt or shoulder straps they curl. Not sure why this happens. Can you shed some light on this. Thanks! And so glad I find your channel.
Hm. I have sewed 3d mesh, and I haven't experienced the curling you refer to. You might try a longer stitch length to see if that helps - short stitch length might effectively shorten the seam, causing the part to curl. I hope that helps! Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
I can't find a duffel bag of reasonable price that has a backpack strap. Even those that have ones, they are on the bottom, yet, I think that in front with the regular handles are better. Not good looking but the weight of the inside is not supported by the zipper. Good tutorial
Thanks! That's an interesting thought on putting backpack straps on the front/top of a duffel. I've considered making a duffel with backpack straps, and I intended to have a layer of foam or a stiffener of some kind in the bottom panel, but maybe the zipper would be sufficient, too. If you're making a project like that, I recently posted a 4-part backpack tutorial that goes into a lot of detail that you might find helpful. It's not a duffel, but a lot of the construction would cross over. Thanks for watching and commenting!
PPG clubs and schools are everywhere nowadays. A quick search will get results. Paragliding is a fabirc intensive sport. Ive made a few bucks on repairs and modifications to harnesses and accessories. Chase your dream before you get too old, it can be physically demanding in the learning stages. Or just experience a tandem flight to see if it's something you want to pursue. Its addictive, be careful !
Thanks, yeah I know of at least one instructor in my area, I'm just trying to stay away until I'm sure I can devote the time and money to it that it deserves. I hope to have a few good years left ;) Thanks!
Where were you 6 years ago lol? Thanks for the feedback. If you care to check out some of my newer videos, I've gotten a little better about that, and honestly the basement I filmed in back in those days made sound and lighting exponentially more difficult. Unfortunately, I can't go back in time to fix those videos! I appreciate the constructive criticism, thanks for watching!
Love the video thanks so much for showing us how to do this, although one thing maybe think twice abut talking about things like condoms ,a woman from my community was about to show this to her boy scout troop because of the title sewing for guys but she was happy she watched it before showing it to the kids , not that it is a big deal to some people but some parents would have totally been freaked out if they used this to teach the kids . it would be nice if all ages could learn from your videos :-)
Hi! I truly appreciate the feedback, that's good advice. My videos are intended for adults, although I make sure that I don't use profanity in my videos to keep them "safe for work." I can see how this example could be potentially offensive. I applaud your friend for having the good sense to preview stuff before showing to children :) For the record, the overwhelming majority of my videos, while not made for children, should be completely appropriate for most ages, so please encourage your friend to check out some of my other (and better) videos! Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
The trick with replacing straps is you're likely to have to disassemble the bag quite far in order to access where the straps attach to do it properly. Otherwise, just make sure your attachments are very secure! Good luck with your project!
I've recently gotten into MYOG for backpacking. And I'm entertaining the idea of building my own lightweight backpack. This video helped tons! Any update on your backpack?
Thank so much, I'm glad it helped! This pack has been a never-ending saga. I started it last January, and it's probably about 60% done. Long story. There will be a video review of the pack when it's finished, but this one is WAY to complicated for a build video. I have plans to do a build video of a simpler back pack that might be interesting to you, but it's probably a few months out. Thanks for watching and commenting, and let me know if you have any questions!
I've done a bunch of other sewing stuff for camping - tarps, hammocks, down quilts - now I want to make backpacks too...not sure my machine is heavy duty enough - brother xr3240 bought over a year ago - what machine can do this sort of sewing? Thanks! Nice video
Hi! Depending on what material you intend to make your pack(s) out of, the sewing machine you have should work fine, with some caveats. Where most sewing machines struggle is the even feeding of thick seams and/or webbing. I use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 portable walking-foot machine. I have a review of the machine that explains why I like it, you might want to check it out if you're interested. With a standard, non-walking-foot domestic machine, you can usually "help" the machine penetrate (by hand-wheeling) and to feed (by stopping, lifting the foot, moving the work, lowering the foot, hand-wheeling, etc.). Having a walking-foot machine *mostly* eliminates that need to "help" and allows you to just sew through the hard parts. Choice of materials (for example, 17737 Military Flat Webbing is much thinner but more than strong enough to use for straps) and design to keep the seams as thin as possible can help a standard domestic machine struggle less. The machine I used in this video is a Singer 20-33 light industrial non-walking-foot machine, and other than being faster and feeding slightly better, it didn't really perform better than my other non-walking-foot machines (which is why I sold it after getting the Sailrite). I currently have 11 sewing machines, and my solution to a sewing problem is often to just grab another machine. I realize that this isn't an option for most "normal" people. A lot of my earlier projects were done on my Pfaff 260, a 1950s-era domestic machine. Many of those projects are still in use and look great today. The difference for me is how much easier it is to make these kinds of projects with a walking-foot machine. Short answer - if you want to make a lot of heavy-duty projects with webbing, Cordura, etc., and you don't want a true industrial walking-foot machine, check out the Sailrite. If you don't want to spend $650, or want to do a wide variety of projects including lots of thin materials (the Sailrite would NOT be my choice for an under quilt or a hammock, etc.), my preference is pre-1970s machines. I have a $20 1968 Singer 237 that does great at thinner stuff, and can struggle through the thicker stuff when needed. If you want to try the machine you currently have, get some webbing and the material you intend to use, and make some fake seams to see how it performs. Webbing at a corner where two seams meet, perhaps with some foam between layers of fabric, is where the machine is likely to struggle the most. Again, design choices can minimize some of that. Sorry for the long answer, I hope that helps. Good luck with your projects, and thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades excellent - thanks! I've wondered if heavy stuff would break gears in my lightweight brother machine - this machine handles light stuff excellent so far and I will keep using it - but not sure if I'll break it trying heavy stuff - I'll check out the sailright!
Plastic gears tend to break when they become embrittled by age, but they can break. You'd probably break a needle before the gear, though, if it's a newer machine.
Hi! I just wanted to provide some clarification to the "sewing for guys" thing. When I got into sewing, I immediately searched RUclips trying to find sewing projects that were interesting to me: functional, utility items like military-style backpacks and things of that sort. No matter what search terms I used, everything I found had a distinctively feminine vibe to it. I wasn't looking for videos on how to sew a purse or a lace-backed blouse, and that was the kind of thing I tended to find. There was (and I presume still is) a RUclips channel called "Mansewing" that I excitedly clicked on only to find that what he offered on his very successful channel was the same kinds of "cute" traditional sewing projects, not at all what I was trying to find. So, I started making the videos that I was searching for, and many of my earlier videos include the subtitle "sewing for guys." That should be read as "sewing meant to include guys who might be searching for more functional, heavy duty and perhaps traditionally masculine sewing topics and projects, but certainly not to the exclusion of anyone of any gender identity who might also be interested in the topic." That doesn't work well as a search term or a video title :) I started my channel 9 years ago this month, and quite a bit has changed. The fact is that "sewing for guys" made my channel get traction (to the extent that it has). It is an indisputable fact that for people of at least my generation and prior, sewing was seen as a traditionally feminine pastime (after having been a traditionally male-dominated vocation). Nine years ago, when I mentioned to my mostly male welder co-workers that I enjoyed sewing as a hobby, there was at least a little friendly raising of eyebrows. These days, it doesn't seem to raise eyebrows to quite the same extent, although in 2020 the "men who sew" hashtag was trending enough to make national (at least) news as many men began embracing sewing as a "quarantine hobby." (To be clear, it was considered newsworthy because it was seen as unusual that men were interested in sewing.) All of this is to say, yes, I know that ladies make bag straps, too. I've worked as a sewing machine operator professionally and been the only guy in the sewing shop. The surprise is not that ladies sew bag straps; at least from the perspective of the last 75-ish years, the surprise is that guys do, too. Hopefully we all continue to progress to the extent that such labels aren't needed, although then I won't know how to attract those people who want to sew "manly" things lol! Thank you for the comment and for watching! I hope this helps clarify my thinking on this. (Oh, and I ended up selling that 20U, but it was a neat machine, I kind of want another one!)
Pretty much any machine should be able to handle foam of this type, I think. Depending on your outer fabric, you may or may not have some trouble with feeding, but you should be able to help the machine out in that case. If you are able to adjust the presser foot pressure, that might be helpful. I say try it and see! Thanks for your question, and good luck!
Thanks! It's a borrowed machine (my Sister's) so even though she gave me permission to try it, and it's a pretty good machine, she wasn't sure either, so I thought I should gather opinions. There's a lot of other good directly relevant stuff here too. Thanks again!
dude, i dont sub anybody really... that was an awesome video! im gonna get to work soon on a new project for my business, and ill probably drop you a shoutout.
I used this video to recreate one strap for my backpack that had torn. I was able to iron the aero fabric and reuse it and the foam, and just replaced the front face with a piece of 1000d cordura. It all went great until I tried to sew the strap onto the webbing, when the needle hits the padding it goes pop and then the fabric just birds nests on the back. I am uncertain if the machine doesn’t have enough power or I am doing something wrong?
Hi, Power is not the problem (if it were, the machine just wouldn't be able to push the needle through the material). One possibility is tension. If the tension on the UPPER thread is not high enough, it will fail to pull the LOWER (bobbin) thread up high enough, leaving loops underneath. A possibly more likely problem is that the machine is failing to feed the material, and just keeps sewing the same spot over and over. Combine this with improper tension and it could create the problem you're experiencing. Have you tried sewing up to the foam with the motor, then stopping and hand wheeling the machine through the foam part? Make sure that each time the machine feeds the material to the next stitch the same distance is being covered (the stitches are the same length). Sometimes a machine will feed ok going slow, but will easily fail to feed when speed increases. If it's feeding well, try adjusting the tension by raising the tension on the upper tension knob - a little at a time. You may have to find the right balance between your different thicknesses of materials. If you're still having the issue, consider changing - or at least removing and reinstalling - your needle, and completely rethread the machine (top thread and bobbin). Sometimes a needle can be improperly installed and the machine will still sew until a thicker/more difficult seam, then the problem becomes apparent. Don't give up! Sewing stuff like this is fun and rewarding, but there are definitely challenges involved. You may have to find a way to work around some obstacles, but you CAN do it! Let me know what you find, and feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
thejasonofalltrades hey thank for your words of encouragement. I completely redid the setup, I think the problem was the material was so think the foot I had on it was too think for the presser foot to go low enough to allow the tension to kick in. When your presser foot is raised you don’t have tension on the thread from the tensioner. I have remedied the problem and it seems to be working atm.
Denier is a measurement of the mass of the thread that is used to weave the fabric. It is the weight in grams of a single thread 9000 meters in length. So, 1000 Denier Cordura is twice as massive as 500D. A single strand of 1000D Cordura thread, 9000 meters long, would weigh 1000 grams (or a kilogram, or 2.2 pounds). If I were making a sturdy backpack for rugged outdoor use (think military-style, not lightweight backpacking), I would most likely use a layer of 1000D on the outside, and 500D (or less) on the inside. In my recent toiletry bag video, I started with a single layer of 500D, but decided to double it to make it feel more substantial. In terms of Cordura and similar nylon and polyester fabrics, "coated" just means that it has been treated with a (usually) durable water-repellant coating to make it more water resistant (usually not truly water proof). I hope that helps!
It really does help a ton! One more question for you, and then I think I'll let you rest. :-D Can a sewing machine sew through the foam in those soft exercise mats/yoga mats?
LOL no problem, I'm glad to help! I've heard of people using yoga mats as a cheap source of foam. I haven't tried it, but I'm sure pretty much any sewing machine should be able to sew it just fine. Check online, though, and make sure there isn't a foam that's actually intended for your purpose that might be affordable (unless you're getting free yoga mats).
I wouldn't omit the topstitching around the edges of the strap - I have a commercial pack where they didn't do this, and the foam tends to bunch up inside the strap cover. The line of sewing should keep everything in place.
Hi, I don't sell these (the ones in this video got put on a pack a couple of years ago), but there are pre-made backpack straps available out there if you don't want to make your own. Thanks for watching!
I'm not skilled enough as a designer to make straps specific to anyone's anatomy. One of the reasons I promote learning to do things like making your own backpack is that you can design/alter things to fit you, specifically. I suppose there are resources out there for determining how to make different things fit different bodies; I haven't gotten that far in my journey yet. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
The exterior fabric on these straps was 400 Denier nylon pack cloth. I was never able to positively identify the foam, but it was a medium density foam about 1/4" thick. The webbing was Mil Spec 17337 nylon webbing. You might be interested in the four-part backpack tutorial I recently posted to my channel. It's very long, and goes into a lot more detail, including a simpler backpack strap than this version. Thanks for watching!
I got really lucky on Craigslist and bought a ton of material from a local place that had gone out of business. I scored a couple of rolls of fabric, loads of hardware, etc. Great deal for me, but unfortunately I don't know where to find a lot of this stuff (other than "the internet"), and I don't even know what some of it is! Sorry!
I buy lots of outdoor fabric and goodies from The Rain Shed. Long ago I had them ship some stuff, then quickly figured out they were 12 miles from my house. They have the foam, fabric, buckles, webbing, and tons of other stuff.
I almost always use thread size V69. The thread you choose will depend on the fabric you're using, and the needle size should be appropriate for the thread. There are thread/needle charts available online. Sizes between 90 and 110 usually work well for me with size 69 thread. Thanks for watching!
Try searching for 1/4" EVA foam. I still haven't bought any, but I'm almost out of whatever unidentified foam this is, and 1/4" EVA looks like it's similar. If anyone else has more info, please add to the conversation!
I simply patterned mine after a set of straps from a backpack I had on hand. It doesn't have to be too precise, you can make them wider or narrower based on your preference and comfort.
Hi Frankie, The machine in this video is a Singer 20-33 (also known as 20U). I sold this machine after I got my Sailrite LS-1. The Singer is a fine machine, but I find that, for the things and materials I sew, a walking foot is indispensable. The 20-33 is fast and powerful, but is still not a walking foot machine, and still doesn't feed thick/heavy materials as well as the Sailrite does. If your sewing mostly involves medium-weight apparel fabrics, the 20-33 is a great machine. I have a review of the machine on my channel if you'd like to check that out. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
I'll be working on a how-to video as soon as possible. I just moved across the country, and none of my machines are here yet. All of the packs I've made so far have been without a pattern or plan. If you have a similar pack to what you want to make, you can take measurements from that (or seam-rip it apart if it's cheap enough) to develop a pattern from. Thanks for watching!
Hi Brandon, I've made a few custom packs, but at the moment anything I made to sell would be ridiculously overpriced. Keep your eyes on this channel or on my Instagram, at some point I hope to have some offerings. Thanks for watching!
Hi Megan, Thanks for the helpful critique. I've been trying to slowly but steadily improve the quality of my videos (this one is pretty far back in my catalog), but feedback like this is always helpful! Thanks for watching!
I make back packs too. This was a good tutorial. I just made a pack using padding called FY20 you can get here: www.owfinc.com/hardware.html. There are other different thicknesses they offer too. I just discovered your RUclips channel today. I will subscribe. I look forward to all your videos.
Hi, Thanks, good advice. I've been slowly trying to improve my video and audio quality over the years, I think (I hope!) the newer stuff on my channel is a bit better. Sometimes, anyway!
I'm honestly a bit perplexed by this comment. That machine (which at the time was the only industrial machine I owned) had a 1/3 horsepower motor. Power was definitely NOT a problem, and I routinely sew this kind of stuff with 1/10th horsepower motors without issue. Can you elaborate on why you think the machine was lacking power? For the record, I sold this machine because it did not suit my needs. I find a walking-foot machine works best for most of my sewing. However, the machine's ability to feed was the issue, not power. Thanks for watching, let me know if I can better answer (or understand) your question.
@@thejasonofalltrades Because I can hear you pressing the foot pedal down, and the motor making its motor noise, yet not turning. And then you reaching over and giving the handwheel a little help. That's how it looked but I could be wrong. I have a consew 226. When I press the pedal , the needle immediately goes up and down. It just didn't look like that was the case with the machine you were using.
Yeah, what you were seeing there was me learning how to use a VERY fast machine with a clutch motor. Using the hand wheel is a common way to manage the clutch engagement without the machine running away from you, which that particular machine liked to do quite a bit. My Consew 225 has a clutch motor, but it's a bit slower and has a new clutch, and I've learned a bit about setup so it's quite a bit more controllable. That Singer was touchy.
@@thejasonofalltrades I didn't realize it had a clutch motor. It kind of sounded like the motor on my singer 201, which I often have to nudge with the hand wheel sometimes when going through thick materials. My consew has a servo motor with a speed reducer, so I don't have to nudge it by hand.
I would sew the webbing to the foam assembly the whole length instead of just in three places for a couple of reasons. By fully attaching the webbing you eliminate any friction that would lead to unnecessary wear. I'm also thinking that it would distribute the weight down the strap. One thing I would reconsider if I was you is the width of the webbing. The wider the webbing, the more comfortable the bag will be because of weight distribution.... pounds per square inch and all that. Isn't that what we all want, to carry more stuff with less fatigue? I do like the little straps for sunglasses. They would be a handy place for keys, just add a carabiner! xoxo from Arizona
Thanks, Suzi! There are about a million ways to do this, and they all have up and downsides. These straps went on a daily carry-style pack (you can see the finished pack in my "best backpack ever made" video), and for the kind of loads they will see, the webbing works well. But yes, wider webbing should help transfer weight more effectively, if needed.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thejasonofalltrades: not only is this an excellent video, but you have gone the extra mile in giving comprehensive answers to comments. Thank you!
Thank you so much!
That table is absolutely gorgeous
I know, six years later. Anyway, instead of using a match, I've used the output of a 'hot air station' which is normally used on soldered circuit boards.
The air station allows you to actually set the temperature of the hot air, to within a degree; also one sets the velocity of the air speed coming from the nozzle; the user also chooses from a wide variety of nozzle sizes, so being that the air output is completely under control - even to the size of the area that the nozzle hits - to the temperature, to a set degree - to the amount of air coming out. It's really sophisticated, so that the chance of burning nylon needlessly is reduced more than tenfold. I use a 3/8" nozzle, but I have a 1/4" too, among what was included with the station.
I just subscribed to your channel, I'm intending to do one of your projects soon.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
That hot air station sounds interesting! I'm not familiar with that and don't know if it is something that is commonly available to most home sewists, but it's good to know there are other alternatives. Thanks for sharing!
@@thejasonofalltrades
That is interesting. They are not exactly ubiquitous, but also not unusual. Most common use is for melting solder in order to remove micro-components on circuit boards. The temperature has to be relatively focused within a certain range and the air speed as well, in order to only melt the solder around the one micro-component. I've used mine to shrink heat-shrink tubing and to remove labels from items though; there's no law saying how to use it.
This one from Amazon would be similar to what you'd need, it comes with three tips for the nozzle, 8mm, 10mm, & 13mm; temperature range 212°-932°F; air speed 0-120lpm (liters per minute). There is an LED display that shows the temperature setting. It has something mine doesn't, three presets. Once you know the melting point of your nylon, you can set a preset to return to the same settings. The nozzle goes into a 'holster' on the side of the control unit and has a magnetic switch that turns it off when it's holstered. You turn off the nozzle by putting it back in its holster. On mine the cord is about 36" or so, this one is similar.
www.amazon.com/YIHUA-959D-Digital-Efficiency-212°F-932°F-Iron-burn/dp/B08BK3M6YW
There are a good number of units on Amazon and elsewhere online that all have very similar features. Also you can order different tips for it if the three that come with it aren't enough. I don't know how much melting you do, but if you do it frequently, you can use this device to replace your lighter/candle/matches, and get a huge improvement in results.
The one I have isn't like that one, it's a combo unit, with a soldering attachment and a power supply. You don't need that stuff. If you're curious, mine has similar features but with the added combined gadgets, & it is this one (made by the same company). I've had it a few years:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4GPM66
I don't know but if you'd benefit from one of these, but it seems to me that if you do a good amount of melting, and you're already using a hot knife, this might be a useful tool for you. Possibly. Hope I didn't flood you with too much info, but these things are really sophisticated devices and pretty impressive. I can actually set the air temperature to the degree (at least that's what the display says). The speed of the airflow is controlled by a radio knob on the front panel. They're really neat devices.
If you get one from Amazon and don't like it, they're really very tolerant about taking returns with free shipping (I think you get more than 30 days to return something) and you just drop it off at a UPS kiosk.
I hope this small bit of information and helpfulness can in some tiny way return that helpfulness that you've provided me and others who benefit from your informative and interesting content.
One comment, probably more for beginner sewists. When sewing on curves, especially tight curves, shorten your stitch length for a nice curve and easier maneuvering around the curve.
Great tip, thanks!
Great tutorial! Recently bought what I thought was a wheeled backpack but it came without straps. After a brief look online I decided it would be cheapest and least wasteful to make and add straps myself. Just had a hunt through my supplies and I have stuff I can work with. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank YOU for watching! Good luck with your project, and let me know if you have questions!
Alternatively, I think you could top stitch the foam between the two layers of fabric, clip the edges and then top stitch the same nylon webbing as binding around the outer edge. I know it can be difficult to turn some things inside out, especially with thick fabric. If you use that technique though might be best to switch out for a zipper foot to avoid sewing through the foam itself and make the binding easier to sew.
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for 👌
Sewing the external strap to padded strap: sew the sides of the padded, turn right side out, put in your foam *and* the external strap. (This is when I'd put those three seams you put in to keep the external strap aligned.) Then finish both ends of the padded strap. Maybe fold the end of the foam down 1/2" sew the ends of the padded strap closed and secure what was the external strap; which is now a concealed strap, then work the foam piedce flat and snug against the seam.
And if concealing the weight bearing strap, you could cut it for the angles of the controured strap and X-box them baxk together in the appropriate angles before putting them inside with the foam.
Thanks. My mom and dad were hard workers and thus I acrewed some skills... but since my youth I have forgotten some of my mom's sewing wizardry.
PS- great video. But your black shirt and strap material make visuals difficult. I mean to be helpful... not cattywompus.
Again thanks for sharing.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! This video is not one of my newer ones - I'm continuously striving to improve the production value, with varying results lol.
You're the man. Thank you for this series.
Thank YOU for watching and commenting!
thanks, i get so much from your vids, for strap length weight distribution i'd do a light girder work of longish triangles between like a pals layout
About the technique you use to stitch the nylon webbing on the bottom of your strap, it’s called a box stitch (stitch a square then an X in the middle)
Thanks for sharing. I want to have a go after seeing your vlogs.
Your videos are awesome. I've been using the foam from old computer bags for my padding. It works great and there are a lot of old, big computer bags with tons of padding. Hey thanks for the videos. Think about wearing a white sweater when you show us black fabric. It might be easier for us to see more. Your close ups helped a lot, though. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
Good point on the sweater - I'm constantly learning from my mistakes, so hopefully this one won't be repeated!
I've been meaning to do a video on scavenging existing items to get raw materials for projects, your computer bag for padding is a great idea!
Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
That's a great idea. I'm a scavenger out of necessity. I just recently learned how to sew and I'm into making the best backpack. But all the gear is expensive or hard to find. I get backpack zippers by seam ripping them out of old backpacks. I've not been able to find two way zippers anywhere! Not even online. But there are plenty of old backpacks in the world and cheap at Salvation Army! And those same back packs have lots of buckles and other plastic and webbing I can use. I will be interested in what you do. Thank you for replying.
Send me an email (you can find the address in the "About" tab on my channel page). I'd like to send you something.
Thanks, great info as usual. It was difficult however to see the black strap when you have it held up in front of a black shirt :-)
Hi,
Thanks! Yes, many others have commented about the black strap/black shirt. To the extent that the reason matters, this is an old video of mine, filmed when I was using a camera with no front-facing monitor, and by the time I realized the mistake, the entire video was shot. I appreciate the feedback, as it helps me to continue to improve my videos!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Even though it was recorded a long time ago it still comes handy
i need that sewing table AND machine in my life like, immediately 😄. great tutorial.
Great tutorial. I just learnt to make a bag pack but made simple straps. I really wanted to learn to sew these types and luckily I found this video. But could you explain step by step how to attach it to the bag and also how to make the entire bag. Will that presser foot fit on any machine? Thanks. You are a great help.
Hi Angelyn,
I had been planning a complete backpack project video, and I got a little off track, but I still intend to get one made. In the meantime, I have a video on how the bottom of the straps gets attached, and the top part of the straps can just be sewn in between the back panel and the side gusset. Alternatively, you can sew a strip of webbing across the back panel where you want to attach the straps. This can be seen in some of my other backpack videos, but you'll have to go hunting for it, sorry!
Thanks for your patience, hopefully I can get a backpack project video together in the near future!
I need shoulder straps on my paraglider stuff sack. This is the perfect tutorial for me to learn how to make them. Thanks my man !
Juki ddl 5550
Consew 227
Thanks for watching!
I spent a lot of the 1990s jumping out of airplanes, and I really want to try powered paragliding sometime. Good luck with your project!
Good video: thank you! (Might I also suggest that you avoid wearing a black sweater when the subject item is also black, especially for a dimly lit shop...). 🤔
Thanks! And to be fair, you're a good 7 years late with excellent advice lol. I've tried to do better in videos since this one 😁
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ya, I saw that after posting; sorry for the necro-advice. Thanks again for your time.@@thejasonofalltrades
Have you tried sewing the 3D mesh padding? Every time I sew a hip belt or shoulder straps they curl. Not sure why this happens. Can you shed some light on this. Thanks! And so glad I find your channel.
Hm. I have sewed 3d mesh, and I haven't experienced the curling you refer to. You might try a longer stitch length to see if that helps - short stitch length might effectively shorten the seam, causing the part to curl.
I hope that helps! Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
When you get to the same persons channel on two separate occasions totally independently. *Presses SUB*
Thank you, and welcome!
Great video man. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Another awesome vid.
I can't find a duffel bag of reasonable price that has a backpack strap. Even those that have ones, they are on the bottom, yet, I think that in front with the regular handles are better. Not good looking but the weight of the inside is not supported by the zipper. Good tutorial
Thanks! That's an interesting thought on putting backpack straps on the front/top of a duffel. I've considered making a duffel with backpack straps, and I intended to have a layer of foam or a stiffener of some kind in the bottom panel, but maybe the zipper would be sufficient, too.
If you're making a project like that, I recently posted a 4-part backpack tutorial that goes into a lot of detail that you might find helpful. It's not a duffel, but a lot of the construction would cross over.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
PPG clubs and schools are everywhere nowadays. A quick search will get results. Paragliding is a fabirc intensive sport. Ive made a few bucks on repairs and modifications to harnesses and accessories. Chase your dream before you get too old, it can be physically demanding in the learning stages. Or just experience a tandem flight to see if it's something you want to pursue. Its addictive, be careful !
Thanks, yeah I know of at least one instructor in my area, I'm just trying to stay away until I'm sure I can devote the time and money to it that it deserves. I hope to have a few good years left ;) Thanks!
could i suggest you wear a white t shirt as contrast?
Where were you 6 years ago lol?
Thanks for the feedback. If you care to check out some of my newer videos, I've gotten a little better about that, and honestly the basement I filmed in back in those days made sound and lighting exponentially more difficult. Unfortunately, I can't go back in time to fix those videos! I appreciate the constructive criticism, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Very informative and well done.
Thank YOU for watching and commenting!
Love the video thanks so much for showing us how to do this, although one thing maybe think twice abut talking about things like condoms ,a woman from my community was about to show this to her boy scout troop because of the title sewing for guys but she was happy she watched it before showing it to the kids , not that it is a big deal to some people but some parents would have totally been freaked out if they used this to teach the kids . it would be nice if all ages could learn from your videos :-)
Hi!
I truly appreciate the feedback, that's good advice. My videos are intended for adults, although I make sure that I don't use profanity in my videos to keep them "safe for work." I can see how this example could be potentially offensive. I applaud your friend for having the good sense to preview stuff before showing to children :)
For the record, the overwhelming majority of my videos, while not made for children, should be completely appropriate for most ages, so please encourage your friend to check out some of my other (and better) videos!
Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
After any advice, im about to replace the straps on my hiking harness with much cumfier ones from a military pack, any tips when attaching?
The trick with replacing straps is you're likely to have to disassemble the bag quite far in order to access where the straps attach to do it properly. Otherwise, just make sure your attachments are very secure!
Good luck with your project!
This is a great tutorial. Thanks so much...
I've recently gotten into MYOG for backpacking. And I'm entertaining the idea of building my own lightweight backpack. This video helped tons!
Any update on your backpack?
Thank so much, I'm glad it helped!
This pack has been a never-ending saga. I started it last January, and it's probably about 60% done. Long story. There will be a video review of the pack when it's finished, but this one is WAY to complicated for a build video. I have plans to do a build video of a simpler back pack that might be interesting to you, but it's probably a few months out.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and let me know if you have any questions!
I've done a bunch of other sewing stuff for camping - tarps, hammocks, down quilts - now I want to make backpacks too...not sure my machine is heavy duty enough - brother xr3240 bought over a year ago - what machine can do this sort of sewing? Thanks! Nice video
Hi!
Depending on what material you intend to make your pack(s) out of, the sewing machine you have should work fine, with some caveats. Where most sewing machines struggle is the even feeding of thick seams and/or webbing. I use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 portable walking-foot machine. I have a review of the machine that explains why I like it, you might want to check it out if you're interested.
With a standard, non-walking-foot domestic machine, you can usually "help" the machine penetrate (by hand-wheeling) and to feed (by stopping, lifting the foot, moving the work, lowering the foot, hand-wheeling, etc.). Having a walking-foot machine *mostly* eliminates that need to "help" and allows you to just sew through the hard parts.
Choice of materials (for example, 17737 Military Flat Webbing is much thinner but more than strong enough to use for straps) and design to keep the seams as thin as possible can help a standard domestic machine struggle less.
The machine I used in this video is a Singer 20-33 light industrial non-walking-foot machine, and other than being faster and feeding slightly better, it didn't really perform better than my other non-walking-foot machines (which is why I sold it after getting the Sailrite).
I currently have 11 sewing machines, and my solution to a sewing problem is often to just grab another machine. I realize that this isn't an option for most "normal" people. A lot of my earlier projects were done on my Pfaff 260, a 1950s-era domestic machine. Many of those projects are still in use and look great today. The difference for me is how much easier it is to make these kinds of projects with a walking-foot machine.
Short answer - if you want to make a lot of heavy-duty projects with webbing, Cordura, etc., and you don't want a true industrial walking-foot machine, check out the Sailrite. If you don't want to spend $650, or want to do a wide variety of projects including lots of thin materials (the Sailrite would NOT be my choice for an under quilt or a hammock, etc.), my preference is pre-1970s machines. I have a $20 1968 Singer 237 that does great at thinner stuff, and can struggle through the thicker stuff when needed.
If you want to try the machine you currently have, get some webbing and the material you intend to use, and make some fake seams to see how it performs. Webbing at a corner where two seams meet, perhaps with some foam between layers of fabric, is where the machine is likely to struggle the most. Again, design choices can minimize some of that.
Sorry for the long answer, I hope that helps. Good luck with your projects, and thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades excellent - thanks! I've wondered if heavy stuff would break gears in my lightweight brother machine - this machine handles light stuff excellent so far and I will keep using it - but not sure if I'll break it trying heavy stuff - I'll check out the sailright!
Plastic gears tend to break when they become embrittled by age, but they can break. You'd probably break a needle before the gear, though, if it's a newer machine.
how do you make this strap adjustable...or you have to have exact measurement... yes?
Singer 20 U!!! Also, Ladies make bag straps too
Hi!
I just wanted to provide some clarification to the "sewing for guys" thing.
When I got into sewing, I immediately searched RUclips trying to find sewing projects that were interesting to me: functional, utility items like military-style backpacks and things of that sort. No matter what search terms I used, everything I found had a distinctively feminine vibe to it. I wasn't looking for videos on how to sew a purse or a lace-backed blouse, and that was the kind of thing I tended to find. There was (and I presume still is) a RUclips channel called "Mansewing" that I excitedly clicked on only to find that what he offered on his very successful channel was the same kinds of "cute" traditional sewing projects, not at all what I was trying to find.
So, I started making the videos that I was searching for, and many of my earlier videos include the subtitle "sewing for guys." That should be read as "sewing meant to include guys who might be searching for more functional, heavy duty and perhaps traditionally masculine sewing topics and projects, but certainly not to the exclusion of anyone of any gender identity who might also be interested in the topic." That doesn't work well as a search term or a video title :)
I started my channel 9 years ago this month, and quite a bit has changed. The fact is that "sewing for guys" made my channel get traction (to the extent that it has). It is an indisputable fact that for people of at least my generation and prior, sewing was seen as a traditionally feminine pastime (after having been a traditionally male-dominated vocation). Nine years ago, when I mentioned to my mostly male welder co-workers that I enjoyed sewing as a hobby, there was at least a little friendly raising of eyebrows. These days, it doesn't seem to raise eyebrows to quite the same extent, although in 2020 the "men who sew" hashtag was trending enough to make national (at least) news as many men began embracing sewing as a "quarantine hobby." (To be clear, it was considered newsworthy because it was seen as unusual that men were interested in sewing.)
All of this is to say, yes, I know that ladies make bag straps, too. I've worked as a sewing machine operator professionally and been the only guy in the sewing shop. The surprise is not that ladies sew bag straps; at least from the perspective of the last 75-ish years, the surprise is that guys do, too. Hopefully we all continue to progress to the extent that such labels aren't needed, although then I won't know how to attract those people who want to sew "manly" things lol!
Thank you for the comment and for watching! I hope this helps clarify my thinking on this.
(Oh, and I ended up selling that 20U, but it was a neat machine, I kind of want another one!)
Good tutorial! Thanks!
Can a high-end household machine (generally) sew through the foam like that? Or just the industrial ones like yours?
Pretty much any machine should be able to handle foam of this type, I think. Depending on your outer fabric, you may or may not have some trouble with feeding, but you should be able to help the machine out in that case. If you are able to adjust the presser foot pressure, that might be helpful. I say try it and see!
Thanks for your question, and good luck!
Thanks! It's a borrowed machine (my Sister's) so even though she gave me permission to try it, and it's a pretty good machine, she wasn't sure either, so I thought I should gather opinions. There's a lot of other good directly relevant stuff here too. Thanks again!
5:10 I don't think you are putting on condoms correctly...
It's possible. I haven't seen one in quite a while.
dude, i dont sub anybody really... that was an awesome video! im gonna get to work soon on a new project for my business, and ill probably drop you a shoutout.
Thanks so much!
I used this video to recreate one strap for my backpack that had torn. I was able to iron the aero fabric and reuse it and the foam, and just replaced the front face with a piece of 1000d cordura. It all went great until I tried to sew the strap onto the webbing, when the needle hits the padding it goes pop and then the fabric just birds nests on the back. I am uncertain if the machine doesn’t have enough power or I am doing something wrong?
Hi,
Power is not the problem (if it were, the machine just wouldn't be able to push the needle through the material).
One possibility is tension. If the tension on the UPPER thread is not high enough, it will fail to pull the LOWER (bobbin) thread up high enough, leaving loops underneath.
A possibly more likely problem is that the machine is failing to feed the material, and just keeps sewing the same spot over and over. Combine this with improper tension and it could create the problem you're experiencing.
Have you tried sewing up to the foam with the motor, then stopping and hand wheeling the machine through the foam part? Make sure that each time the machine feeds the material to the next stitch the same distance is being covered (the stitches are the same length). Sometimes a machine will feed ok going slow, but will easily fail to feed when speed increases.
If it's feeding well, try adjusting the tension by raising the tension on the upper tension knob - a little at a time. You may have to find the right balance between your different thicknesses of materials.
If you're still having the issue, consider changing - or at least removing and reinstalling - your needle, and completely rethread the machine (top thread and bobbin). Sometimes a needle can be improperly installed and the machine will still sew until a thicker/more difficult seam, then the problem becomes apparent.
Don't give up! Sewing stuff like this is fun and rewarding, but there are definitely challenges involved. You may have to find a way to work around some obstacles, but you CAN do it!
Let me know what you find, and feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
thejasonofalltrades hey thank for your words of encouragement. I completely redid the setup, I think the problem was the material was so think the foot I had on it was too think for the presser foot to go low enough to allow the tension to kick in. When your presser foot is raised you don’t have tension on the thread from the tensioner. I have remedied the problem and it seems to be working atm.
I have a backpack I like but the straps suck, can't wait to try making these, cheers
+Danthefordfixer Awesome, Dan, I can't wait to see what you come up with!
use volara foam for padding
Nice vid
What are the real differences between Cordura 500 & Cordura 1000?
Also, what do sites mean when they state "coated" or "uncoated"?
Denier is a measurement of the mass of the thread that is used to weave the fabric. It is the weight in grams of a single thread 9000 meters in length. So, 1000 Denier Cordura is twice as massive as 500D. A single strand of 1000D Cordura thread, 9000 meters long, would weigh 1000 grams (or a kilogram, or 2.2 pounds).
If I were making a sturdy backpack for rugged outdoor use (think military-style, not lightweight backpacking), I would most likely use a layer of 1000D on the outside, and 500D (or less) on the inside.
In my recent toiletry bag video, I started with a single layer of 500D, but decided to double it to make it feel more substantial.
In terms of Cordura and similar nylon and polyester fabrics, "coated" just means that it has been treated with a (usually) durable water-repellant coating to make it more water resistant (usually not truly water proof).
I hope that helps!
It really does help a ton!
One more question for you, and then I think I'll let you rest. :-D
Can a sewing machine sew through the foam in those soft exercise mats/yoga mats?
LOL no problem, I'm glad to help! I've heard of people using yoga mats as a cheap source of foam. I haven't tried it, but I'm sure pretty much any sewing machine should be able to sew it just fine. Check online, though, and make sure there isn't a foam that's actually intended for your purpose that might be affordable (unless you're getting free yoga mats).
As a woman i love sewing for guys
I wouldn't omit the topstitching around the edges of the strap - I have a commercial pack where they didn't do this, and the foam tends to bunch up inside the strap cover. The line of sewing should keep everything in place.
Thanks for the tip!
Are you selling these ones you made? I need one :P
Hi,
I don't sell these (the ones in this video got put on a pack a couple of years ago), but there are pre-made backpack straps available out there if you don't want to make your own.
Thanks for watching!
What type of thread did you used?
Thank you.
Hi,
I almost exclusively use bonded nylon thread in size V69 (also known as T70) for this kind of project.
Thanks for watching!
Your foam is 1/4" Volara closed cell foam.
How about straps designed for women's anatomy?
I'm not skilled enough as a designer to make straps specific to anyone's anatomy. One of the reasons I promote learning to do things like making your own backpack is that you can design/alter things to fit you, specifically.
I suppose there are resources out there for determining how to make different things fit different bodies; I haven't gotten that far in my journey yet.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Please how did you get the measurements and the shape
Hi,
I determined the measurements and shape by looking at other backpacks I had and adapting the design of them to what I wanted. I hope that helps!
99 % of all back pack straps are made by edge binding the perimeter first developed by John Peters New York in 1984.
Thanks for sharing , could you please share your material details also?
The exterior fabric on these straps was 400 Denier nylon pack cloth. I was never able to positively identify the foam, but it was a medium density foam about 1/4" thick. The webbing was Mil Spec 17337 nylon webbing.
You might be interested in the four-part backpack tutorial I recently posted to my channel. It's very long, and goes into a lot more detail, including a simpler backpack strap than this version.
Thanks for watching!
I wish that I had links for where you get your materials...
...Mind posting? :-D
I got really lucky on Craigslist and bought a ton of material from a local place that had gone out of business. I scored a couple of rolls of fabric, loads of hardware, etc. Great deal for me, but unfortunately I don't know where to find a lot of this stuff (other than "the internet"), and I don't even know what some of it is! Sorry!
LOL... Fair enough. apparently my area sucks for Craigslist.
I'd love to tell you that I find deals like that all the time, but I think it was a once-in-a-lifetime deal, unfortunately.
I suppose that we're all due some form of "Lottery win" in life. LOL
I buy lots of outdoor fabric and goodies from The Rain Shed. Long ago I had them ship some stuff, then quickly figured out they were 12 miles from my house. They have the foam, fabric, buckles, webbing, and tons of other stuff.
what size of needle and thread ?
I almost always use thread size V69. The thread you choose will depend on the fabric you're using, and the needle size should be appropriate for the thread. There are thread/needle charts available online. Sizes between 90 and 110 usually work well for me with size 69 thread.
Thanks for watching!
can someone drop a link or some key words that’ll help me find similar padding? it’s hard to tell what is what through pictures…
Try searching for 1/4" EVA foam. I still haven't bought any, but I'm almost out of whatever unidentified foam this is, and 1/4" EVA looks like it's similar. If anyone else has more info, please add to the conversation!
Any size or pattern for the straps??
I simply patterned mine after a set of straps from a backpack I had on hand. It doesn't have to be too precise, you can make them wider or narrower based on your preference and comfort.
What machine/table is this?
Hi Frankie,
The machine in this video is a Singer 20-33 (also known as 20U). I sold this machine after I got my Sailrite LS-1. The Singer is a fine machine, but I find that, for the things and materials I sew, a walking foot is indispensable. The 20-33 is fast and powerful, but is still not a walking foot machine, and still doesn't feed thick/heavy materials as well as the Sailrite does. If your sewing mostly involves medium-weight apparel fabrics, the 20-33 is a great machine.
I have a review of the machine on my channel if you'd like to check that out.
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
can i have the plan of the backpack.i need the whole plan
I'll be working on a how-to video as soon as possible. I just moved across the country, and none of my machines are here yet.
All of the packs I've made so far have been without a pattern or plan. If you have a similar pack to what you want to make, you can take measurements from that (or seam-rip it apart if it's cheap enough) to develop a pattern from.
Thanks for watching!
Do you make backpacks forsale?
Hi Brandon,
I've made a few custom packs, but at the moment anything I made to sell would be ridiculously overpriced. Keep your eyes on this channel or on my Instagram, at some point I hope to have some offerings.
Thanks for watching!
cool
Note to self: don't wear the same color shirt as your backpack strap... (Can't see the strap in the beginning!)
Hi Megan,
Thanks for the helpful critique. I've been trying to slowly but steadily improve the quality of my videos (this one is pretty far back in my catalog), but feedback like this is always helpful!
Thanks for watching!
I make back packs too. This was a good tutorial. I just made a pack using padding called FY20 you can get here: www.owfinc.com/hardware.html. There are other different thicknesses they offer too. I just discovered your RUclips channel today. I will subscribe. I look forward to all your videos.
Thanks for the padding info!
I feel compelled to say, if that's how you put on a condom, you're doing it wrong! lol
😂
Don’t wear black when working with black. Your viewers can not see your work when you are the physical backdrop.
Hi,
Thanks, good advice. I've been slowly trying to improve my video and audio quality over the years, I think (I hope!) the newer stuff on my channel is a bit better. Sometimes, anyway!
Weak motor on that sewing machine. Why not use your industrial machine...
I'm honestly a bit perplexed by this comment. That machine (which at the time was the only industrial machine I owned) had a 1/3 horsepower motor. Power was definitely NOT a problem, and I routinely sew this kind of stuff with 1/10th horsepower motors without issue.
Can you elaborate on why you think the machine was lacking power?
For the record, I sold this machine because it did not suit my needs. I find a walking-foot machine works best for most of my sewing. However, the machine's ability to feed was the issue, not power.
Thanks for watching, let me know if I can better answer (or understand) your question.
@@thejasonofalltrades Because I can hear you pressing the foot pedal down, and the motor making its motor noise, yet not turning. And then you reaching over and giving the handwheel a little help. That's how it looked but I could be wrong. I have a consew 226. When I press the pedal , the needle immediately goes up and down. It just didn't look like that was the case with the machine you were using.
Yeah, what you were seeing there was me learning how to use a VERY fast machine with a clutch motor. Using the hand wheel is a common way to manage the clutch engagement without the machine running away from you, which that particular machine liked to do quite a bit. My Consew 225 has a clutch motor, but it's a bit slower and has a new clutch, and I've learned a bit about setup so it's quite a bit more controllable. That Singer was touchy.
@@thejasonofalltrades I didn't realize it had a clutch motor. It kind of sounded like the motor on my singer 201, which I often have to nudge with the hand wheel sometimes when going through thick materials. My consew has a servo motor with a speed reducer, so I don't have to nudge it by hand.