I really do appreciate you taking the time to explain the SBA. There’s plenty of FBA tutorials here on RUclips that I was beginning to think there was a discrimination for us itty bitties 😂. Now I can not wait to try this. Thank you
Same here! I've seen a lot of FBA tutorials and always felt a bit left out trying to shrink garments to fit my small boobs :D Thank you again Aneka! Your chanel is always so helpful and informative!
❤❤❤❤❤ Your channel was one of the first I chose to watch. Maybe 5 years ago? You were kind enough to allow me to use your mini stocking pattern for a crafts/sewing class sponsored by a nonprofit service organization. Your videos are very professional: thorough but not repetitive, clear instructions, great closeups. Honestly, I feel like I’m taking a private class from you. Thanks so much for these awesome videos. They could only be improved if you invited me to your studio!🤣
Ha! Light bulb going off! No wonder I just had to remove 1 inch from the shoulder seams!!! And half an inch on the side seam just under the armpit! It's all clicking now....thank you from this newbie!
Hi Aneka thank you for explaining everything so throughly! I watched a lovely American lady from a 1980’s video try to explain this but it was very confusing and my novice sewing brain couldn’t make head nor tail of what she was saying or doing but you’ve explained everything so well and I now understand how and why. I haven’t found anyone on RUclips taking time to go into such detail, hence watching the 1980’s lady. Oh well done on your 1st live stream too it was very good, I enjoyed the mix of chatting and guidance 👌🏼👏🏼 xx
Hi Clara, I am SO pleased that I could help and you understood the video. It can be difficult to make some of these videos clear and easy to understand. So I really appreciate your kind thoughts. Thank you for the live class as well, really pleased you enjoyed it. Aneka x
I have loved lissonto your lesson over and over Its how i learn then when i get the pattern out i understand better thank you And i have learnef much more thank you Momsart
Thank you so much for this video! I watched another sba video in an online class I'm taking and was totally confused. I needed to go from a c cup to a and that video didn't show how to eliminate the dart altogether. You just made my day! One question: if I want to maintain the pattern's waist width and use the curved ruler to redraw the side seam, does it matter that the side seam on the back piece is still straight? Do I have to curve it the same way for the front and back to fit together? Maybe a silly question but Imtvery new to this. Thanks!
Thank you for doing this tutorial on SBA. My question is, if the pattern has both bust dart and waist dart, how would you do adjustment to the waist dart? Im new to sewing and really need some good help here. Thank you, Aneka.
Hi there, thank you. I don’t have a video for the armhole area. Depending on the armhole of SBA a you need to do it is probably easiest to move the armhole dart into a side dart. Complete the SBA and if you have any side dart left you can move it back to the armhole. Does that help? I have a video that shows you how to use dart manipulation to move darts: ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html Aneka x
Great video! What would you do for a dress that only has a waistline dart and not a side seam dart? I'm trying to work out how to do a SBA on the Nina Lee Kew dress
Hi! Great video, this is really helped me since I have a small bust - I do have a quick question: I am sewing a slip dress, which uses spaghetti straps and has a rounded waist (so no arm holes and waist comes to a point on the midline, creating two separate bust pieces). How would I apply this approach to this pattern?
@@MadetoSew hi, it's possible to do an sba on a dress that's made already right? I know nothing about sewing, wondering if it can be taken to a dressmaker for adjustment
@@yasheemmathias I isn't really possible to do it in the same way once the dress is sewn. The only real option you have is to remove the fabric from the front of the garment only. Hope that helps?
Brilliant! Thank you so much! I’m off to buy some calico to have a play with my patterns. As a small busted women I’ve always squeezed into a smaller size just to eliminate the excess fabric at the bust. Will these adjustments fix the problem of having arm holes that are too big and too low in the armpit in sleeveless garments?
Hi Esther, glad I could help. It probably won't help the issues with the armholes that are too big or low. You can easy raise the armpit (I do find some patterns draft them quite low), and I have a tutorial you can use if you have gaping in the armhole: www.google.com/search?q=remove+gaping+armhole&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB814GB816&oq=remove+gaping+armhole&aqs=chrome..69i57j35i39j0l8.2790j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_YnuwYO3wCbjZz7sPkMKH-Aw33 Thanks, Aneka x
Excellent tutorial. But how should you choose your pattern size in the first place? Usually, we choose the size based on our bust measurement -- but that is the measurement we are actually going to reduce! Would it make more sense to choose the pattern size based on the high bust measurement? Then the SBA would take care of itself, so to speak.
Hi Mary, in terms of what size to choose it really depends on the pattern company you are working with. For my (Made to Sew) patterns I would recommend you choose a size based on your Bust, Waist and Hip and blend between the sizes as required. For the Bust size you would take your High Bust measurement and add the cup size of the pattern (usually B Cup, a difference of 2" 5cm between the High Bust and Bust). This is the Bust size you would choose. If your bust is different to the Bust size then you would do a SBA or FBA. Does that make sense? With my patterns I also have a detailed Size Chart covering the size of the shoulders, cross front, cross back etc. so you can see where you fall in these other measurements. For some of the larger pattern companies (e.g. McCalls, Butterick etc.) you can find that the shoulders etc. are quite large. I have some customers choose the Bust size from their High Bust (without added the cup size of the pattern). Then making adjustments. I hope this helps? Aneka x
When making an SBA if the top has a sleeve will adjustments have to be made to the level pattern as well? Next silly question... so for example following this tutorial I cut out pattern size 8 ( because size 8 is 2" larger than my bust measurement) for the sleeve for the garment do I cut out my actual sleeve size which would have been a size 4? And the same for the bottom (as it is a dress( I would use pattern size 4 on the bottom as that is my actual size for this pattern correct? I know this is an older video but I hope you still see this question. This tutorial was so helpful!
Really pleased I could help. You do not need to change the sleeve, as you haven't actually changed the stitching line of the armhole. You should use the sleeve cap size that fits the armhole. I would firstly try and make the garment (a sample ideally) without sleeves, then you can check the SBA and the armhole shape and size. If the armhole fits well use the same size sleeve for the armhole (because you need the sleeve cap to be the same size as the armhole to fit). BUT you may find that you want to change the side seams of the sleeve, if you have a smaller bicep and want to reduce the amount of fabric you have here. You would have to taper them from the underarm (as this seam can't be changed without affecting the fit into the armhole). Or you could do a Bicep Adjustment: ruclips.net/video/Snj8iT_MIcc/видео.html&feature=emb_title Let me know how you get on? Aneka x
For learning purposes, why not make the dart bigger to pinch out more fabric instead of doing a SBA? Are there consequences to that? What if I only have 1/4" of excess at bust?
Hello! I accidentally made my side darts uneven. Any tips on how to fix that ? I am scared of using more fabric because it may make the fronts pointy. 🤦♀️ any advice ? It’s for a really important dress.
@@jarapovic so when you were sewing the darts you made the mistake? And they now aren’t the same? From what I understand you trimmed the bulk of the dart away too? Are you able to undo them and see where the garment is symmetrical? It might be that you can raise one and lower the other so that they are symmetrical. I think it will look better if they are symmetrical even if that means that are lower / higher than they should be. Does that make sense?
Hi Aneka - I measured my high bust measurement as 90 cm. I always wear a padded bra so my bust measurement is also 90cm. How would I then work out the measurement to do the SBA? Thank you for doing the tutorial.
Hi Tracy, I do hope this video has helped you. Ok, so if you High Bust and Bust are the same measurement then you may not need to create a cup for the Bust. I would start by removing the amount of material required for the dart to go away. So in this example it was 1". In another pattern it might be more or less. I would start with that, but be aware that you may need to take more. If you take more than this the dart will close even more, which would make the side seam shorter than the back. So you may need to extend the side seam at the front side, to make sure it matches the back (obviously check the your Back Length measurement is still correct). Let me know if this helps, and another other questions. Aneka x
I am going to be making the Harley tunic dress when I get back from Canada on the 19 July. So would I have to do a SBA on that pattern? I was planning on making size 2 which is 91cm/36". My bust is 90cm.
zoals jij dit shirt bij de coupnaad kleiner maakt, maak je de zijnaad korter en past het niet meer op de zijnaad van het achterpand, of heb ik dit nou helemaal mis?
Hi.. I dont know if im doing it right. I followed your instructions but i find that i need to cut along the line of the middle of the bust dart to be able to make the adjustment and for the paper to lay flatly. Did i mess up?
Hi Danica, you do need to cut along the line in the middle of the bust dart. I do show that in this video. You are not doing it wrong. Sorry if it wasn't clear. Aneka
Hi Aneka, I'm wondering if anything needs to be done to the underarm portion? It has moved down a bit. Would I add paper to bring it back up to the original location? Also, where can I purchase your patterns? I went to your website but can't figure out how to buy them. Thank you, Aneka.
Hi Rachel, thanks for your message. I am very sorry about the confusion with the patterns; they haven't launched yet. You can add your email address to the pattern that you are interested in and the system will let you know once they have launched. With regard to the SBA you don't need to raise the armhole, the shape of the armhole does change slightly because we are using a pivot point in the armhole to complete the SBA. You shouldn't find that it causes any issues on the final garment, let me know how you get on? If you find there are issues with the armhole, feel free to email me some pictures and I will help you fix them. You can't just raise the armhole again, because then the front side seam will be longer than the back, does that make sense? Aneka
Aneka, I'm your biggest fan. I don't care how long it takes I will be patiently waiting for your patterns. U.K. is so fortunate to have you! Thank you so much for being accessible to answer questions.
Hello! I've just completed my adjustment from a C cup to an A on the front pattern piece! I have a question as to what to do with the back piece since the front piece is now about an inch and a half shorter than it was. Would I take the same amount off from the back piece? Also this pattern will eventually have sleeves, do I need to modify the pattern piece for the sleeve as well, or does it not matter because of the pivot at the armhole ....the space that is removed from the side is just relocated to the pivot point? I also eyeballed the dividing the armhole by 3rds...is that okay? Not quite sure how to accurately measure that area otherwise. Also, this pattern is a dress. While choosing my pattern size based upon my upper bust measurement + 3" (C cup) do I only use the corresponding bodice size for the SBA, and cut the rest of the pattern to what my normal size would be? Thank you!
Hi Sara, You shouldn't need to change the sleeve because you didn't actually interfere with the stitching line on the sleeve. The adjustment should be made to the stitching line and not in to the seam allowance, so the stitching line for the size of the armhole should remain the same. The fact you eyeballed it by dividing the armhole in to 1/3rds is fine and should work well. I would however recommend that you make a Toile first. If you have adjusted the front from a C to A cup the adjustment should have taken place within the dart, so therefore although the front pattern piece looks shorter it is actually only the bulk of the dart that looks shorter? Is that the case? Or by making the adjustment have you removed all of that dart? Ideally you would be removing the bulk simply from the dart or the side seam, so therefore you would not need to make an adjustment to the back, because the front and back would still match. It's simply the front dart that has got smaller. Or, potentially as you have gone from a C to an A cup the front dart may not exist at all? If that is the case and you have removed more than the dart then yes, you are going to need to adjust the back as your side seams will be a different length. I hope this helps?
HI Anika, Thank you for the great tutorial! I followed your instructions but what I don't understand is why no one talks about shortening impact on the bodice. I am a tall person and when I did my 1 Inch SBA my bodice got nearly 2 inches shorter. I initially had to lengthen the bodice by 2 inches but anded up adding total 4 inches (2 inches SBA impact + 2 inches initial extra length). Now i have a gaping armhole because of the underarm notch i made for the SBA. Now I read in the comments below that I should not raise the armhole but how do you then fix the armhole gaping? When I sewed my first tolle I didn't have armhole gaping juts too much room around the breast. Thank you in advance and hope Ozzy land is treating you well.
Hi Polly, thanks for your message some great questions. You are correct that by doing a SBA you end up shortening the bodice, but not on the side seam, only on the front seam. Because by having a smaller cup size there is less length over the front bust part of the body. The back and side seam are the same and have not been amended. If you need to add length I would compare your back length to that of the pattern, did you do this? Was there any difference? What you have added sounds correct, but you will probably find that it is because of your back length that you need to make this adjustment. In terms of the armhole, gaping in the armhole is quite common in the big commercial patterns, armholes vary greatly from person to person and patterns are often too low (in my opinion). You can by all means raise the underarm of both the front and back pieces, it's just that this isn't related to the SBA you have done, does that make sense? You can also look at this tutorial to correct any further gaping: ruclips.net/video/H9YVk2hkvC0/видео.html Does this help Polly? Thanks, Aneka x
Thank you Aneka! I must have done something strange as I remember I needed to add length on the side seam. I will practice again. Your comment and explanations are very clear. Thank you so much Aneka! Have a great start in 2019! @@MadetoSew
Hi Tina, you may find it helpful to use another of my tutorials for this. ruclips.net/video/Fbw5AwnBX0s/видео.html This tutorial teaches how to measure bust, waist and hip. I hope it helps?
Then you may have to do a Small Bust Adjustment. So that you don’t have a difference between the High Bust and Bust. If your High Bust is larger than your Bust you may also find that you have a Broad Back, or something else going on; which is making the measurement larger. But first up, you could the SBA to 0.
@@MadetoSew thanks, my high bust is 33” and my full bust is 32”. I have a double A bra and all small bust adjustments haven’t worked. I’ve also made my own bodice from my own measurements but the standard dart size is 1” but that’s too much. I’m thinking my next step is to use myself as a dress form and set the darts on myself. Is there a way to determine how wide the dart should be?
@@emm6724 Hi There, really sorry that you are struggling with this and small bust adjustments haven't worked in the past. If your full bust is smaller than your high bust it is possible that you do not need a dart, usually I would remove the dart by doing a SBA and then the garment would fit better. If you are drafting your own block then I would try this without a dart, or with a very small bust dart (say 1/2" maximum). I would be inclined to have no bust dart and then just use a waist dart for fitting. Does that help? Aneka
I really do appreciate you taking the time to explain the SBA. There’s plenty of FBA tutorials here on RUclips that I was beginning to think there was a discrimination for us itty bitties 😂. Now I can not wait to try this. Thank you
Hi Anita, I completely agree it is much harder to find SBA tutorials, so I am so pleased I could help. Good luck, Aneka x
Same here! I've seen a lot of FBA tutorials and always felt a bit left out trying to shrink garments to fit my small boobs :D Thank you again Aneka! Your chanel is always so helpful and informative!
❤❤❤❤❤ Your channel was one of the first I chose to watch. Maybe 5 years ago? You were kind enough to allow me to use your mini stocking pattern for a crafts/sewing class sponsored by a nonprofit service organization. Your videos are very professional: thorough but not repetitive, clear instructions, great closeups. Honestly, I feel like I’m taking a private class from you. Thanks so much for these awesome videos. They could only be improved if you invited me to your studio!🤣
Ha! Light bulb going off! No wonder I just had to remove 1 inch from the shoulder seams!!! And half an inch on the side seam just under the armpit! It's all clicking now....thank you from this newbie!
Yay! I am very pleased, looking forward to all the great fitting garments you are going to make! 😃 Aneka
Hi Aneka thank you for explaining everything so throughly! I watched a lovely American lady from a 1980’s video try to explain this but it was very confusing and my novice sewing brain couldn’t make head nor tail of what she was saying or doing but you’ve explained everything so well and I now understand how and why. I haven’t found anyone on RUclips taking time to go into such detail, hence watching the 1980’s lady.
Oh well done on your 1st live stream too it was very good, I enjoyed the mix of chatting and guidance 👌🏼👏🏼 xx
Hi Clara, I am SO pleased that I could help and you understood the video. It can be difficult to make some of these videos clear and easy to understand. So I really appreciate your kind thoughts. Thank you for the live class as well, really pleased you enjoyed it. Aneka x
Made to Sew 😘
I have loved lissonto your lesson over and over
Its how i learn then when i get the pattern out i understand better thank you
And i have learnef much more thank you
Momsart
Thank you. So pleased that you are finding it helpful.
Omg, you're so thorough! Loving this, I still have to buy a sewing machine, but, as a size AA/A, this tutorial is gonna be super helpful!
So pleased I could help, so exciting! Good luck buying a sewing machine. Aneka x
Love love this tutorial! This is what I need :D It's awesome seeing how you can transform a pattern by cutting into it at the right places!
Thank you, so pleased I could help. Aneka x
Brilliant, extremely well covered. I now feel this is something I can do. Thanks very much
Thanks Ian.
So happy to have this information. Thankyou.
Thanks Miriam.
This is so helpful, thanks so much for taking the time to create this tutorial ☺️
Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
Thank you so much for this video! I watched another sba video in an online class I'm taking and was totally confused. I needed to go from a c cup to a and that video didn't show how to eliminate the dart altogether. You just made my day! One question: if I want to maintain the pattern's waist width and use the curved ruler to redraw the side seam, does it matter that the side seam on the back piece is still straight? Do I have to curve it the same way for the front and back to fit together? Maybe a silly question but Imtvery new to this. Thanks!
thank you so much. I've recently gone through a double mastectomy without reconstruction so am struggling with pattern adjustments
So pleased I could help Nancy. Sorry to hear your news. Wishing you all the best with your alterations. Aneka xx
Thank you for doing this tutorial on SBA. My question is, if the pattern has both bust dart and waist dart, how would you do adjustment to the waist dart? Im new to sewing and really need some good help here. Thank you, Aneka.
Hi Leah, here is one with a bust and waist dart: ruclips.net/video/ynNXldjno2k/видео.html Aneka x
Hi. Thank you so much for this. Clear, concise and to the point! Pun intended!😊
Ha ha! Thank you.
Does this adjustment make the waist width smaller? Thanks for a really clear tutorial though💯
Thank you so much for this tutorial on SBA. Do you have a tutorial on the dart at the armhole area .
Hi there, thank you.
I don’t have a video for the armhole area. Depending on the armhole of SBA a you need to do it is probably easiest to move the armhole dart into a side dart.
Complete the SBA and if you have any side dart left you can move it back to the armhole.
Does that help? I have a video that shows you how to use dart manipulation to move darts: ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html
Aneka x
Thanks so much. Will try it out
@@lowbeekhoon7204 Pleasure
Great video! What would you do for a dress that only has a waistline dart and not a side seam dart? I'm trying to work out how to do a SBA on the Nina Lee Kew dress
Hi Fi, So sorry that I didn't reply. Have just messaged you on IG, happy to chat on there as it's probably easier. Aneka x
Great tutorial - Thank you so much!!!
Thanks Sandra.
Hi! Great video, this is really helped me since I have a small bust - I do have a quick question: I am sewing a slip dress, which uses spaghetti straps and has a rounded waist (so no arm holes and waist comes to a point on the midline, creating two separate bust pieces). How would I apply this approach to this pattern?
Hi Olivia, can you email me some pictures of the pattern so I can advise? info@madetosew.com or message me on IG (madetosew). Thanks, Aneka x
This is really informative, thank you so much!!! I'll try it out
Thank you.
@@MadetoSew hi, it's possible to do an sba on a dress that's made already right? I know nothing about sewing, wondering if it can be taken to a dressmaker for adjustment
@@yasheemmathias I isn't really possible to do it in the same way once the dress is sewn. The only real option you have is to remove the fabric from the front of the garment only. Hope that helps?
Brilliant! Thank you so much! I’m off to buy some calico to have a play with my patterns. As a small busted women I’ve always squeezed into a smaller size just to eliminate the excess fabric at the bust. Will these adjustments fix the problem of having arm holes that are too big and too low in the armpit in sleeveless garments?
Hi Esther, glad I could help. It probably won't help the issues with the armholes that are too big or low. You can easy raise the armpit (I do find some patterns draft them quite low), and I have a tutorial you can use if you have gaping in the armhole: www.google.com/search?q=remove+gaping+armhole&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB814GB816&oq=remove+gaping+armhole&aqs=chrome..69i57j35i39j0l8.2790j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_YnuwYO3wCbjZz7sPkMKH-Aw33 Thanks, Aneka x
Excellent tutorial. But how should you choose your pattern size in the first place? Usually, we choose the size based on our bust measurement -- but that is the measurement we are actually going to reduce! Would it make more sense to choose the pattern size based on the high bust measurement? Then the SBA would take care of itself, so to speak.
Hi Mary, in terms of what size to choose it really depends on the pattern company you are working with. For my (Made to Sew) patterns I would recommend you choose a size based on your Bust, Waist and Hip and blend between the sizes as required. For the Bust size you would take your High Bust measurement and add the cup size of the pattern (usually B Cup, a difference of 2" 5cm between the High Bust and Bust). This is the Bust size you would choose. If your bust is different to the Bust size then you would do a SBA or FBA. Does that make sense?
With my patterns I also have a detailed Size Chart covering the size of the shoulders, cross front, cross back etc. so you can see where you fall in these other measurements.
For some of the larger pattern companies (e.g. McCalls, Butterick etc.) you can find that the shoulders etc. are quite large. I have some customers choose the Bust size from their High Bust (without added the cup size of the pattern). Then making adjustments.
I hope this helps? Aneka x
What if I have only one waist dart? Does this adjustment should be made in the same way, or differently?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions 🙏🏻
You are wonderful, thank you!
Thank you so much Jessica. Aneka x
When making an SBA if the top has a sleeve will adjustments have to be made to the level pattern as well? Next silly question... so for example following this tutorial I cut out pattern size 8 ( because size 8 is 2" larger than my bust measurement) for the sleeve for the garment do I cut out my actual sleeve size which would have been a size 4? And the same for the bottom (as it is a dress( I would use pattern size 4 on the bottom as that is my actual size for this pattern correct? I know this is an older video but I hope you still see this question. This tutorial was so helpful!
Really pleased I could help. You do not need to change the sleeve, as you haven't actually changed the stitching line of the armhole. You should use the sleeve cap size that fits the armhole. I would firstly try and make the garment (a sample ideally) without sleeves, then you can check the SBA and the armhole shape and size. If the armhole fits well use the same size sleeve for the armhole (because you need the sleeve cap to be the same size as the armhole to fit). BUT you may find that you want to change the side seams of the sleeve, if you have a smaller bicep and want to reduce the amount of fabric you have here. You would have to taper them from the underarm (as this seam can't be changed without affecting the fit into the armhole). Or you could do a Bicep Adjustment: ruclips.net/video/Snj8iT_MIcc/видео.html&feature=emb_title Let me know how you get on? Aneka x
For learning purposes, why not make the dart bigger to pinch out more fabric instead of doing a SBA? Are there consequences to that? What if I only have 1/4" of excess at bust?
Brilliant! Thank you 😊
Thank you Mary.
If I draft the pattern from scratch, should I always consider SBA/FBA?
Hello! I accidentally made my side darts uneven. Any tips on how to fix that ? I am scared of using more fabric because it may make the fronts pointy. 🤦♀️ any advice ? It’s for a really important dress.
Do you mean when you sewed the darts? Or on the pattern?
@@MadetoSew the darts. I think I fed the fabric differently when I was sewing each side and cut it before checking 🤦♀️
@@jarapovic so when you were sewing the darts you made the mistake? And they now aren’t the same?
From what I understand you trimmed the bulk of the dart away too?
Are you able to undo them and see where the garment is symmetrical? It might be that you can raise one and lower the other so that they are symmetrical. I think it will look better if they are symmetrical even if that means that are lower / higher than they should be.
Does that make sense?
@@MadetoSew yes it does thank you ❤️
Hi Aneka - I measured my high bust measurement as 90 cm. I always wear a padded bra so my bust measurement is also 90cm. How would I then work out the measurement to do the SBA? Thank you for doing the tutorial.
Hi Tracy, I do hope this video has helped you. Ok, so if you High Bust and Bust are the same measurement then you may not need to create a cup for the Bust. I would start by removing the amount of material required for the dart to go away. So in this example it was 1". In another pattern it might be more or less. I would start with that, but be aware that you may need to take more. If you take more than this the dart will close even more, which would make the side seam shorter than the back. So you may need to extend the side seam at the front side, to make sure it matches the back (obviously check the your Back Length measurement is still correct). Let me know if this helps, and another other questions. Aneka x
I am going to be making the Harley tunic dress when I get back from Canada on the 19 July. So would I have to do a SBA on that pattern? I was planning on making size 2 which is 91cm/36". My bust is 90cm.
zoals jij dit shirt bij de coupnaad kleiner maakt, maak je de zijnaad korter en past het niet meer op de zijnaad van het achterpand, of heb ik dit nou helemaal mis?
Hi.. I dont know if im doing it right. I followed your instructions but i find that i need to cut along the line of the middle of the bust dart to be able to make the adjustment and for the paper to lay flatly. Did i mess up?
Hi Danica, you do need to cut along the line in the middle of the bust dart. I do show that in this video. You are not doing it wrong. Sorry if it wasn't clear. Aneka
Hi Aneka, I'm wondering if anything needs to be done to the underarm portion? It has moved down a bit. Would I add paper to bring it back up to the original location? Also, where can I purchase your patterns? I went to your website but can't figure out how to buy them. Thank you, Aneka.
Hi Rachel, thanks for your message. I am very sorry about the confusion with the patterns; they haven't launched yet. You can add your email address to the pattern that you are interested in and the system will let you know once they have launched. With regard to the SBA you don't need to raise the armhole, the shape of the armhole does change slightly because we are using a pivot point in the armhole to complete the SBA. You shouldn't find that it causes any issues on the final garment, let me know how you get on? If you find there are issues with the armhole, feel free to email me some pictures and I will help you fix them. You can't just raise the armhole again, because then the front side seam will be longer than the back, does that make sense? Aneka
Gocha. Thanks Aneka! Also, I've added my e-mail at your website. I'm particularly looking foreward to making your jumpsuit.
Aneka, I'm your biggest fan. I don't care how long it takes I will be patiently waiting for your patterns. U.K. is so fortunate to have you! Thank you so much for being accessible to answer questions.
Hello! I've just completed my adjustment from a C cup to an A on the front pattern piece! I have a question as to what to do with the back piece since the front piece is now about an inch and a half shorter than it was. Would I take the same amount off from the back piece? Also this pattern will eventually have sleeves, do I need to modify the pattern piece for the sleeve as well, or does it not matter because of the pivot at the armhole ....the space that is removed from the side is just relocated to the pivot point? I also eyeballed the dividing the armhole by 3rds...is that okay? Not quite sure how to accurately measure that area otherwise.
Also, this pattern is a dress. While choosing my pattern size based upon my upper bust measurement + 3" (C cup) do I only use the corresponding bodice size for the SBA, and cut the rest of the pattern to what my normal size would be? Thank you!
Hi Sara,
You shouldn't need to change the sleeve because you didn't actually interfere with the stitching line on the sleeve. The adjustment should be made to the stitching line and not in to the seam allowance, so the stitching line for the size of the armhole should remain the same.
The fact you eyeballed it by dividing the armhole in to 1/3rds is fine and should work well. I would however recommend that you make a Toile first.
If you have adjusted the front from a C to A cup the adjustment should have taken place within the dart, so therefore although the front pattern piece looks shorter it is actually only the bulk of the dart that looks shorter? Is that the case?
Or by making the adjustment have you removed all of that dart?
Ideally you would be removing the bulk simply from the dart or the side seam, so therefore you would not need to make an adjustment to the back, because the front and back would still match. It's simply the front dart that has got smaller.
Or, potentially as you have gone from a C to an A cup the front dart may not exist at all? If that is the case and you have removed more than the dart then yes, you are going to need to adjust the back as your side seams will be a different length.
I hope this helps?
can u pls so us big bust adjustment
Yes of course, how much do you need to add? Aneka
HI Anika, Thank you for the great tutorial! I followed your instructions but what I don't understand is why no one talks about shortening impact on the bodice. I am a tall person and when I did my 1 Inch SBA my bodice got nearly 2 inches shorter. I initially had to lengthen the bodice by 2 inches but anded up adding total 4 inches (2 inches SBA impact + 2 inches initial extra length). Now i have a gaping armhole because of the underarm notch i made for the SBA. Now I read in the comments below that I should not raise the armhole but how do you then fix the armhole gaping? When I sewed my first tolle I didn't have armhole gaping juts too much room around the breast. Thank you in advance and hope Ozzy land is treating you well.
Hi Polly, thanks for your message some great questions. You are correct that by doing a SBA you end up shortening the bodice, but not on the side seam, only on the front seam. Because by having a smaller cup size there is less length over the front bust part of the body. The back and side seam are the same and have not been amended. If you need to add length I would compare your back length to that of the pattern, did you do this? Was there any difference? What you have added sounds correct, but you will probably find that it is because of your back length that you need to make this adjustment.
In terms of the armhole, gaping in the armhole is quite common in the big commercial patterns, armholes vary greatly from person to person and patterns are often too low (in my opinion). You can by all means raise the underarm of both the front and back pieces, it's just that this isn't related to the SBA you have done, does that make sense? You can also look at this tutorial to correct any further gaping: ruclips.net/video/H9YVk2hkvC0/видео.html
Does this help Polly? Thanks, Aneka x
Thank you Aneka! I must have done something strange as I remember I needed to add length on the side seam. I will practice again. Your comment and explanations are very clear. Thank you so much Aneka! Have a great start in 2019! @@MadetoSew
@@pollybg Any questions just shout! Thank you, a happy 2019 to you too! xx
Just like so!
💖 Thanks Deborah.
How to take these bust measurements?
Hi Tina, you may find it helpful to use another of my tutorials for this. ruclips.net/video/Fbw5AwnBX0s/видео.html This tutorial teaches how to measure bust, waist and hip. I hope it helps?
What about when the high bust is larger than my itty bitty full bust?
Then you may have to do a Small Bust Adjustment. So that you don’t have a difference between the High Bust and Bust.
If your High Bust is larger than your Bust you may also find that you have a Broad Back, or something else going on; which is making the measurement larger.
But first up, you could the SBA to 0.
@@MadetoSew thanks, my high bust is 33” and my full bust is 32”. I have a double A bra and all small bust adjustments haven’t worked. I’ve also made my own bodice from my own measurements but the standard dart size is 1” but that’s too much. I’m thinking my next step is to use myself as a dress form and set the darts on myself.
Is there a way to determine how wide the dart should be?
@@emm6724 Hi There, really sorry that you are struggling with this and small bust adjustments haven't worked in the past. If your full bust is smaller than your high bust it is possible that you do not need a dart, usually I would remove the dart by doing a SBA and then the garment would fit better.
If you are drafting your own block then I would try this without a dart, or with a very small bust dart (say 1/2" maximum). I would be inclined to have no bust dart and then just use a waist dart for fitting. Does that help? Aneka
I'm the first to impress and first comment
Thank you :-))