My goodnesses, I nearly cried . I’ve tried doing fba’s in the past and couldn’t understand how to do it. Just watched yours and did a toile. Fits beautifully. I had to add 6inches for my large bust . Thank you so very much .
Sorry for missing your kind comment above. So pleased that you found this video helpful and managed to make a toile to fit. I hope since you posted this comment you have also managed to make some beautiful projects?
This tutorial is a complete lifesaver! I did an FBA to a basic dress bodice with a B-cup and got it up to a D, which fits perfectly now. But the pattern also has darts at the bottom, which look really bulky and unpleasant now, so I'll follow your advice and take the extra off the sides for my second toile. Thanks so much for your awesome explanations! I'm really new to this and I managed to pull the FBA and the truing off on my first try. God, what did people do before the Internet? Sit at home and cry, I suppose.
Fantastic tutorial, so clear and I love that you explain the reasons WHY something is done the way it is, very useful and helps understanding. Thankyou!
Unbelieveable! I’ve always been so afraid to make any pattern adjustments (except for length and maybe adjusting the side seams). You make it so logical and easy to understand. So happy that I saw you on That Sewing Blab. You’ve opened up a whole new world for people like me. Thank you!
Thank you for another user friendly tutorial. I especially appreciate the information on how to remedy the extra room added to the waist after the FBA.
This is the best FBA tutorial I've been able to find. Very clear and helpful, with nothing omitted. I'm a beginner, sewing my first adult garment, a simple loose fitting tank top. I just tissue fit after doing the fba with this tutorial and the fit is so much better than sizing up would have been!
Thank you! I am taking up sewing out of necessity as I have a narrow frame and a proportionally very large bust. (Hips 92 cm and a 16 cm difference at the bust.) Your tutorials are the best I have found on the subject. Very clear and precise.
Clear instructions, explanations and demonstration. I successfully altered a pattern from B cup to DD in my first ever FBA. Much thanks, I’m subscribing!
Thank you so much for this great tutorial and explanation. This is the first time I really understood how the FBA works and how I can alter a pattern correctly. I often had fitting problems: always too much fabric above the bust and too little below. Now I know what to do. So thank you and be sure I will watch ALL of your videos and tutorials because I know that I will learn a lot.
Fantastic tutorial Anika as usual and as always, so clear 👍. I loved watching you on 'That Sewing Blab' yesterday and it was lovely hearing about your sewing story and how you got where you are today. Very exciting to be doing meet ups in America and I'm sure you will be fighting them off in many countries soon and wowing them with your amazing skills 😊. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the FBA's 👍💞😘
Great tutorial easy to understand and explained so well in a lovely clear queens English voice by a great teacher. not gabbled or rushed like so many tutorials that leave one just as confused at the end
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is the third one I have watched in an effort to improve my garment fit...I wish I had found this one first. I will be looking in on the other tutorials you put a link in. Thank you again!
Thank you so much! This tutorial was the best one I’ve ever seen! I’m hooked! I have a D cup and I’m also tall with a high waist. I love a vintage 40’s style and this has helped me so much to get a perfect fit.
Thank you! You have helped me so much ....I've done a FBA course, bought and a tutorial from another sewing co....but yours is the easiest to understand and very well explained. Thank you
I have a new pattern that I think I'll need this for, so looking forward to trying out this and your other tutorials to make a better dress than I've been able to manage previously! I'm sure I'll learn a ton by putting them into practice.
Fantastic tutorial. Returning to dressmaking after several years so very rusty on these techniques. I always have to adjust the bust. Just brilliant explanation. Thank you.
Great tutorial thanks. I have successfully done 1 1/2" fba on a dress. However I now need to remove that amount from the hip area. The waist is fine. Also I am working with a line dress with no waist seam.
Hello, you could cut the pattern off at the Waist, do the FBA and then join it back together, matching the centre front. Then blend from the waist to the low hip. Does that help? Aneka
Thankyou so much. This has opened my eyes to the silly mistakes I have made over the last 12 months. I'm so excited to start on my pattern alterations again 😊
Thanks for this video! I’ve just followed the instructions the first time. What I don’t understand is how a rack quite snug dress can fit really quite well and anything sewn seems to need lots of adjustments. Can’t wrap my head around it. Binging your videos anyway :)
You are right! It does help that we get to try the items on before we buy in the shops. So we don't buy it if it doesn't fit, and we generally know what brands and size we are in certain brands. You might find some pattern companies fit better than others?! A bit like in the shops each designer will design for a different 'person' (shape, size, age etc.) Glad I could help. Aneka x
Hello Aneka, I have just watched this video on FBA. My question is, I need to alter my apex, and also do a FBA, so which do i do first? If I do the apex first, and then the FBA, the apex moves from the original place that I would have made it, and therefore would I need to realign it again? The pattern that I want to do does not have a side dart, and I am taking the measurement from the pattern size 20 as my bust is 43". I am a little confused as to how to adapt the pattern to fit my bust. Any information as to how I go about it would be gratefully appreciated, thanks Val.
@@MadetoSew one question. Is there a tutorial for FBAs when only a waist dart exists? I am probably over-thinking but I can't settle in where the cut lines would be. My latest thought is to do the both the side and waist fba and then transfer the side dart to the waist which would increase the original waist dart.. Thank you again sooo much.
@@jacquiemcallister9585 Hi Jacquie, yes, that is what I would do. Cut a line horizontal to the bust apex into the side seam. And then use dart manipulation at the end to move the side dart into the waist dart. Good luck!
Hi and Thanks!!! so clearly explained. However, I am wondering how can i keep my seam allowance in the armhole"flat". I am trying to apply the technique, but i get a fold in there.
The paper will cross over when you do the adjustment, as you should have cut into the seam allowance in the armhole and used that as a pivot point. You just need to re shape the curve afterwards, blending it smooth. Does that help? Aneka x
What order should I do my adjustments - FBA, moving apex, and lowering the dart - if I need to make adjustments on all three? Thank you for such helpful tutorials!
This is the best tutorial I've seen so far. Perhaps you have it programmed, but if not, will you consider an FBA instruction video for strapless bodices?
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial. Could you please do a tutorial showing how to do a full bust adjustments on a top with a cut on sleeve like The New look pattern 6217 top B. I have a full bust of 44 a high bust of 40 and a bicep of 14 and 1/2. I am not sure if I should lower the armhole or raise the top of the sleeve to increase the sleeve width. Rayon
Your explanation is so clear. Thank you! After the FBA, does the armhole need to be redrawn? Just looking at the final altered pattern piece, it looks like the armhole is now a bit distorted.
Hi Fiona, you do not need to re-draw the armhole. Although the shape of the armhole has changed the length is the same as it was before the adjustment. I think we all have an idea that armholes should be a 'certain shape', usually when I am drafting patterns from scratch for my customers with a fuller bust their armholes will be a hook shape, quite different from what we see in commercial patterns. Hope this helps? Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Thank you for your helpful reply (on another video comment) I have watched this again and I would like you to check if my calculations are correct, thankyou so much. I am making a wedding dress for the daughter of a close friend - the bride is pregnant and will be almost 30 weeks on the wedding day which is early in May! her measurements are high bust 95cm full bust 103.8 cm, difference 8.8 cm which places her between a C&D cup The Vogue pattern I'm using has a D cup front bodice piece. I made the first mock in sz 22 because that matched her full bust m'ment (before I watched your tutorial) but it was too small, (plus we wanted to create a way to allow for some unpredictable increase in size due to her advancing pregnancy) so I tried adding a little width to the front pieces (by slashing & spreading) over the bust area and pleating it back in at the empire waist seam and at the front shoulder to fit with bthe back shoulder! Don't laugh!!! You probably know what happened - we had a bodice that fit easily over the bust top to bottom and has room for expansion too but a terrible gaping excess of fabric into the armhole and side seam. Then I found you. Now my calculations on above measurement using the extemely large bust technique suggests I should do the bodice in sz 16 D cup. I am a bit confused by the fact that the sz 16 bust measurement is 97cm which is actually smaller than her high bust mm. Does that mean I should do a sba on that sz or should I use the B or C cup pattern piece? sorry about the essay! I hope it's ok to ask for your help like this. I have just started doing some pattern making courses online through udemy and I would be willing to pay for the kind of instruction you are giving here on your channel for free. thank you so much for your previous advice I really appreciate it.
Hi Heather, are you able to email me some pictures of the pattern? I am also interested in the finished garment measurements for the pattern. Have you looked at those? They are usually on the pattern, by the Bust, Waist and Hip. Or in the instruction booklet. If the pattern already has Cup sizes then you shouldn’t need to do a FBA. But the pattern should give you a High Bust and Full Bust measurement. And you want to check that the finished garment size for the Bust is larger than your friends Bust. My email is info@madetosew.com. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Yes I could, does that mean you will give me the email address to send it to? how do we do that? (I'm all new at this commenting thing!!) the finished garment mmt is only backlength from base of neck to waist. Thankyou so much for your quick response
@@heatherwade872 Hi Heather, I have replied to your email. Sorry for the delay. Do check your junk/spam if it isn't with you. I have also linked this video for you: ruclips.net/video/Hme13MjUz1Y/видео.html I think this will help you understand how to find the finished garment measurements. Vogue are usually quite good and have them on the individual pattern pieces, as well as some more in the Instruction Book for the pattern. Aneka x
Thanks Emma. The armhole has pivoted but usually it doesn't need changing, the actual length of the armhole is the same. If you have to do a very large adjustment you can pivot through a few points, the armhole, higher up the armhole and the shoulder at the same time. Hope that helps, A x
Good Morning Anika, you have helped me with a FBA and I sewed out a test sample and from the high bust down everything fit perfectly. Now above the high bust, which is 39, and I used the pattern size for the high bust measurement, it is to large. from shoulder to shoulder the pattern is 19 inches and my shoulder to shoulder measurement is 15 inches. So I need to remove two inches on each side of the front bodice above the high bust. I think I know how to do this, but I just wondered if you could tell me if I need to leave any ease or just go with the 15 inch measurement plus seam allowance. No wonder when I sew nothing ever fits correctly. I am just built so weird!! Thank you so much for all your help and this should be the last question to finally get a pattern that fits.
Hi Cindy, Glad you hear you are making progress. Are you working with a pattern by one of the Big Four companies? They can make their shoulders and the upper part of the garment very large (compared to the figures I use when drafting). Sometimes you need to actually choose a smaller pattern size and do a larger FBA. Anyway, for now let's focus on the shoulders. It does depend on the garment how much ease would be added to the shoulder / cross front area. It depends if it has sleeves or not, and it also depends on your neck shape and size. I usually work to draft the neck, then the shoulder. Probably the easiest thing, would be to take your same and mark on the smaller sizes. The you could see which size would suit you best clearly? Does that make sense? Also incase you are interested. I have just started to launch my new pattern range. I have two size ranges but one is specifically designed for individuals with curves that are smaller in the shoulders / cross front. I have this Blog Post that might be of interest to you: madetosew.com/what-size-to-choose/ and in the post there is a super detailed Size Chart (madetosew.com/wp-content/uploads/Made-to-Sew-Size-Chart.pdf) where I basically cover more 'approx sizes' than normal. Maybe take a look at the size 7 or 8 in the 7-15 size range. They are designed for a D Cup bust, so the High Bust for the 7 is 39" and the shoulder (individual) is 4 3/8" so small! I have more pattern styles coming soon. But it might help. Let me know how you go with what you re working on? Aneka
Hi ...thank you for this...the arm hole was a weird shape after the fba ...as shown on your example ...do you just trace the original arm hole to the new pattern.
Hi D, I would leave the armhole shape as it is after the FBA. If you draw the original back on you could alter things. If you have done a very large FBA you can use other pivot points to prevent the armhole being really angular? Such as the shoulder, or higher in the armhole, or both. But most of the time the armhole will be fine with the adjustment.
Hello love your tutorial my question is if my bust measurements are bigger than my waist and hip . I would cut the pattern with both the bust and waist do the FBA first then grade down the waist and hip? I would assume then I wouldn’t have to alter the waist for being too big?
Hi Kimberly, Yes that is correct. I would pick the correct bodice size for your bust. The general rule with alterations is length, curves e.g. FBA, then width, in that order. So do the FBA and then sort out the width of the waist and hip accordingly. Good luck!
I enjoyed your video and followed along with my own pattern. It seems that on my pattern, as well as yours, the armhole shape has been distorted. I would be very grateful if you could explain how to deal with this issue. Thanks in advance.
Hi Karen, yes the armhole shape does change slightly when completing an FBA, because we use the armhole as a pivot point. However the length of the armhole has not been affected, so you do not need to make any amendments to your sleeve pattern or changes to the armhole shape. Does that make sense? Make up a sample or toile and let me know how you get on. Best, Aneka x
Great video, real easy to understand and follow. Also, what if the side seams don't match because the shoulder to waist is about 3" longer in the front than in the back? How do you fix that?
Hi Stuart, thank you. No you don't need to amend the armhole, if you cut to the stitching line and then cut through from the edge of the pattern to the stitching line (so you have not amended the stitching line), you will not need to do anything to the armhole. The shape of the armhole has been affected but the size has not changed. You can have a play moving the location of the line from the bust apex to the armhole if you are doing a large FBA. Hope this helps, Aneka
Thank you for such an informative video. You are an excellent teacher. I downloaded and printed your free Copen pattern, so great that I was able to print just the sizes I need. I love that you have put waist darts into it. When will you release your other patterns?
Thank you for such a lovely comment. I am so pleased you liked the tutorial and like Copen. I hope to release my other patterns as soon as possible, all the patterns are ready and have been graded, but they need to be made pretty (like Copen), which I have to pay a graphic designer to do. Hopefully it won't take long to get the first one out! Sorry to keep everyone waiting. Aneka x
Hello thank very much for helping me with FBS I really understand your teaching but my question is pls do i add the extra lints to the back bodies? Thank you I know is been a while you made this video hope I get reply thank you very much
You do not want to add the extra length to the back bodice. The front bodice should not be longer than the back bodice at the side seam, they should still match at the side seam. Aneka
This was awesome as usual Aneka, thank you so much. I’d like to eventually have a almost completely me made wardrobe and all your wonderful tutorials is helping me on my journey. Once again thank you very much.
Thank you for this video - it is so clear and I'm looking forward to trying it on a pattern soon. However, the pattern I'm currently trying to make is a wrap dress and the dart goes from the lower part of the armhole downwards towards the bust apex. This means, following your tutorial, the line you cut from the armpit is the same as my dart line - so i only have 1 line to cut... Do i just still pivot from the stitch line on this one cut? How would I keep my 'vertical' vertical?! Also, my high bust is 35.5 and my full bust is 38, so assuming my pattern is for a B, I'm only 1/2 inch bigger - 1/4 on each side! Is it even worth doing the bust adjustment on a wrap dress?!
Hi Aneka, I’m sorry to bother you but I’m making the Copen dress and I’ve altered the pattern to fit but when I pin the side seams together the front is longer than the back by 2”. It seems to be the top part of the pattern which is longer and yet it fits me. I know I could just cut the bottom of hem but I would like to know what I’ve done wrong. I don’t know wether this makes sense to you. Many thanks Freda.
Hi Freda, did you do an FBA? Did you add the extra length to the centre front (and not remove that length from the side seam)? I presume it was ok before you did the adjustment? Are you able to send me a photo of your work? My email is info@madetosew.com. Best, Aneka
I’ve watched this over and over and I have a question about the amount of fabric that makes up the side dart on the inside of the garment. When I bring the lines of the dart together that fabric a very large. Which lines do I match up to sew the dart? Will I lose some of the fba if I use the original dart lines?
Hi Diane, you should be matching together the original dart leg lines. But after doing the FBA the dart will be larger in width than it was before. This is normal. The larger the cup size, the larger the dart required on a garment. If the dart is very large, you can trim the inside bulk of the dart away and make a cutaway dart. This video shows you how to do this: madetosew.com/how-to-draft-a-cut-away-dart/ Any questions let me know? Does this help? Aneka
Hello Aneka, I have just done a fba and a lower apex adjustment on a wrap dress. Because my bust measurement is large the dart is large. On looking at the side seams on the back bodice which I have lengthend to match the front, the side seams do not match, the dart seems too large, and the shape of the side seams are different, the back one is straight and the front seam has a juxta position (the only way I can describe it). Therefore the seams do not match. I am so frustrated at trying to do all these measurements, and they never seem to work. Can you tell me how to correct this problem. I found that if I put he dart back to its original size the seams match up ????? Very bizarre. Thanks again for your very informative videos. Val.
Hi Val, The back pattern side seam should not be changed when doing a FBA. The inside of the dart has got bigger. But the actual side seam of the front of the pattern shouldn’t have changed. The angle of the front side seam may have changed due to the dart. To true the seams together make sure you fold the dart (like it’s sewn) to true it and then match the side seams together. Does that make sense? Because the difference should only be inside the dart, which will be sewn, the actual length of the seams shouldn’t change. Let me know if this makes sense? Aneka
If I’m adding .875” to each of the front bodice pieces for the FBA, and I want to move the same amount of width over to the side seam per the end of the video, how do I match the front to back bodice seams? won’t they now be different lengths when sewn up? Thanks!
Because the amount if added to the inside of dart you won't actually be changing the length of the side seam. If you close the dart (fold it closed) and match the stitching lines to the back, you will see it's the same length. Aneka 😃
@@MadetoSew Hi, I've completed my fba per message above, but having some issues. I'm making a woven A-line sleeveless top with bust darts (Helen's Closet Ashton top). My high bust is 33.5" and my full bust is 36.75". The size 8 top, has a 33 inch high bust and a 35" full bust so I used this size. (Also the finished garment measurements are 37" high bust and 39" full bust). I followed around with your video and took my full bust minus the full bust of the size 8 pattern. So 36.75" - 35"= 1.75" . I divided by 2 and made .875" adjustment on the quarter bodice front piece. I think I did the math right? Anyway, I've made the toile and the shirt seems too wide, and there is some extra fabric at the end of the darts that I don't fill out. Also, the hem of the blouse is not parallels with the floor, it rides up a little in the front. So I'm trying to figure out my next steps. If I try the fba again, but at a smaller amount, how do I determine what amount to try instead of the .875"? And how do I deal with the front not being parallel to the floor. I have photos if that would help, but don't think I can add them here. I really appreciate any help you can provide!
@@newsworthya Hello, thank you for the informative message. You have done the maths correct and added the right amount to the FBA based on your measurements and the measurements of the pattern. Happy for you to send me photos. Do you have instagram? I am @madetosew In terms of the darts not filling out this could simply be the shape of your bust. You might just need to shorten the bust darts slightly. For example some people have more curve on the side of their bust, others at the front. The darts need to point to the curve, so the length of the dart does depend on this. The amount of ease in the garment 4" (difference between the size 35" and the finish garment size 39") is quite a lot and it might be that you simply don't like this amount of room in your clothes. To a certain extend we are all different. You could go down a size or work to adjust this size. Is the high bust also loose? Can you go down a size here as well? With regards to how the garment is hanging, this isn't all on the bust. It could also be on your shoulders and how the garment fits your shoulders; for example is it falling to the bacik at the shoulders? Sorry lots to consider. Aneka x
Hi Aneka. Thanks for this very informative video. I’ve learnt so much from it. Very comprehensively explained. Can I ask one question. Does this process work on a wrap bodice? I’m making a bridesmaid dress for a friend and this is the chosen style which I’ve had great difficultly in fitting? I have had to add a side dart as you mentioned in order to improve fit and although I’ve chosen the largest bust size in the pattern range the garment is still tight over the bust whilst the shoulder area is now too large. Hope you can offer some advice.
Hi Sue, yes you can use the seam method for a wrap top. If the grainline for the wrap top is parallel to the wrap shape then ignore this and use the centre front line to keep things straight as you are adding in the volume. Good luck. Aneka
Dear ma'am, Thankyou for your efforts!! :) Kindly explain, after doing this fba, the high bust line is increasing, which loosens the fitting there, i.e., @ under arm point. How to correct this?
Why does the line need to be parallel to the grainline? In my pattern (a wrap top to a dress) the grain line about 45 degs from centre front, I would assume the line to the waist be at an angle? Additionally, my side dart is is above the bust mark on the pattern, would I draw the line from the bust point to the middle of the dart?
Hi Chelsey, you are correct you would use the centre front and keep everything parallel with this, rather than your grainline? I presume the grainline is on the same angle as the shape of the wrap? This is because it will stabilse the angle of the wrap and prevent it from gaping. Feel free to email me pictures if you need: info@madetosew.com. In terms of the side dart yes draw3 from the centre to the bust point. You can always move the side dart after doing the FBA. Hope this helps? Aneka
Hi Anika, Thank you!!! I've really enjoyed your tutorials, they have been very useful and informative. I wanted to do a FBA to a pattern with 1 dart but its on the waist, how do I do this? also, if there ends up being a difference between front and back bodices how do I adjust them without altering the back as its good for my measurements. Many thanks
Hello Soledad, you could follow the same method that I show here. It will of course create you a dart in the side seam, but you could use dart manipulation to send that dart back to the waist dart (this video: ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html) or you could keep a side dart. That way your front and back will sew together at the side seam. Thanks, Aneka
Great tutorial Aneka! I fall under the category of an extremely large bust, where my full bust is 5 inches larger than my high bust. Is there an upper limit for FBA, and if that is the case, what should I do?
Hi Amber, you will be able to get away with 2 1/2" in the FBA. (5" total difference between high bust and bust). Much more than say 2 1/2" - 3" and you might start to struggle, because the pattern does start to become distorted. Let me know how you get on. Aneka x
I have the same problem as Amber. My high bust is 38”. My full bust is 44. That’s a SIX INCH difference, divided by 2=3”!! I need to add 3” on my FBA??? Is that correct? That’s a lot of adjusting, it would seem. Is this correct?
Most of the full bust adjustments are made on the front pattern. Are there any adjustments made to the back, or the arm hole of the sleeve. Most adjustments are made equally around the front and back and to the sleeve if the sides are changed at all.
Wanda Hopson Hi Wanda, with this FBA you are not changing the side seam. So the side seam will still match the back perfectly. I would always check this after making an adjustment - true the pattern. But in this tutorial we add the extra amount required for the FBA straight into the dart. I hope that makes sense? I have other tutorials for different FBA examples coming! Aneka x
The easiest way to do this (or to explain to you), is to you dart manipulation to send the dart back to the side. Then complete this tutorial. Then use dart manipulation to send it back to the neckline. ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html Does that help a bit? Aneka x
I am doing a FBA to a shift dress with only side dart. I am confused as to how to translate this video to a dress with no waist marking. Also this lengthens the CF which will make it longer in the front than at the sides?
Hi Keira, I would cut off the pattern at the waist, complete the FBA and then put it back together. You are correct that a FBA does make the pattern longer over the CF. The extra length is needed to go over the fuller bust. Once you have made the adjustment you will take the new length from the centre and draw a straight line to the side seam. It does not change the length of the size seam. I hope that makes sense? Aneka
Do bust darts always need to point upwards? I don’t wear bras and am a C/D cup so my apex is usually 2-3 in lower than drafted. I think I understand how to move the dart down. But does it matter whether the dart points up or points down? It seems like pointing down would better match my bust shape, but I don’t fully understand what the direction affects. Would that just be a matter of flipping the dart upside down? Thanks so much!
Hi Suzi, you could by all means have the darts pointing down, however generally you find that bust darts are either horizontal or point up to the bust, I think this is more flattering. What about putting the dart horizontally to your bust point? Then you can move it down to work with your bust apex? If you wanted the dart to point downwards you would just move the dart legs along the side seam to work with your bust apex (that you have moved). Watch my dart manipulation tutorial, this explains how to move darts about. Aneka x
Hello Anika i love your tutorial so much am trying it now but i have a question,do you use your basic bodice pattern that already has waist darts allowance or the one without waist dart allowance already in place
Hi Agatha, I have a video for one this a waist dart: this one you are watching and one without a waist dart: ruclips.net/video/CjVXpHXRlLM/видео.html. You can use either for this technique.
Okay I will jump in and try this and see if I can understand why it works. This would mean when the article is lying flat; there would be a slight slope downward from side seam to centere front? Thank you for replying & stay warm! 😊
Hi Rebecca, when you say 10" difference from the rib cage. Do you mean rib cage of the high bust measurement? How far from the dart to the apex is a tricky one, I would start with say 2" and see how it goes. It is hard to say a set figure because in my opinion the distance the dart sits from the apex is based on the shape of the bust (as much as the size). The dart needs to point to the area of greatest curve; this might be the side of the bust, this might be the front. Usually on a fuller bust, the side of the bust will be curved, but this can depend on the bra too. I have had some ladies that still need a longer dart, as the side of the bust is flatter, only curving nearer the apex. I hope this helps? Aneka
@@RebeccaLee-fy5hv Hi Rebecca, to work out your cup size you need to measure your High Bust (above your bust, rather than the rib cage). Bra sizes are worked out differently than cup sizes in dressmaking patterns. For example in Bra sizes a 38 J and a 32 J are going to have a different amount of cup volume, does that make sense? I think I example more about what a FBA is in this video: ruclips.net/video/UoiMxhN_H8Y/видео.html show how to measure the High Bust in that video at about 02:25. Let me know what the difference is between your High Bust and Full Bust. Aneka :-))
@@RebeccaLee-fy5hv Hi Rebecca, you are going to be doing an FBA of 3" then. I would recommend using 2 pivot points one in the shoulder and one in the armhole? This will then help to prevent the armhole from becoming too distorted? Let me know how you get on. Aneka
I didn't follow why if your high bust is 34 and full bust 38, you'd choose a 36 and add 2 inches instead of a 34 and add 4. Is it because the dart would be too big otherwise?
Hi Sandra, thanks for the question. You can do either method as it can depend on the pattern you are working with. The correct way is to take your High Bust and add the cup size of the pattern you are working with (usually this is a B Cup and 2", but it might be different), then you choose your size based on that finding. Your Bust size might be 1" larger than this and that would be the amount of the FBA you need to do. Let's take your example: your high bust is 34" and full bust is 38". You are working with a Vogue pattern that is drafted for a B Cup (2" difference). So you take your High Bust and add the B Cup size to that = 36". That is the Bust size of the pattern you choose. But your full bust is 38", so 2" larger than the pattern size (because you have a D Cup 4" difference). So you need to add a total of 2" to the pattern in the form of an FBA. Does that help?
@@MadetoSew Yes, that's very clear, thank you very much! I don't know why they don't just always provide both a regular bodice with a B cup and one with a FBA to a D in the pattern sleeve. I know that still would not fit everyone but it would be a huge improvement and simple for pattern companies to do.
@@sandraobrien8705 Yes it would make it a lot easier. I am just finalising some of my patterns in my pattern range and they will all have different cup sizes. 😃
Hi Elaine, You are correct that the armscye curve has changed, but it has not changed the stitching line. Therefore the sleeve will still fit into the armhole. The change of shape is not a bad thing; we are used to seeing armholes that dressmaking pattern show us. I promise you if you are making a pattern from scratch for your individual figure they don't all look perfect like this. A lot of my customers with a fuller bust will have a hook shaped armhole instead, as the armhole wants to fit to prevent gaping. If you are doing a very large FBA and the armhole has been extremely distorted you can pivot some of the FBA from the shoulder too; so the armhole and the shoulder. I hope this helps? Aneka
Thanks for the great tutorial. I'm working on a beginner level woven top. The pattern is from an American Co and drafted for a C cup which I am. I've cut out my size based on the method you've described & made a toile. The bust fits ok but there is pulling across the top of the sleeve & alot of gaping at the back of the neck. Should I have cut the bust size according to my high bust? The armhole seems v big & gapes at the back too. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. X
Tracy Charalambous Hi Tracey, would you mind sending my some pictures? On Instagram or Facebook? I am madetosew. Then I can suggested the next best steps. Sorry, I just want to make sure I suggest the right thing! Aneka x
I have full/prominent bust with small bones structure, my shoulder seams always sit right at my shoulder point but then move toward the front bust at the neck point. Is a FBA going to fix this issue?
Hello! An FBA won't necessarily fix this issue, but you may need to be doing an FBA anyway? What is the difference between your High Bust and Full Bust? Send me photos of your issue and I will help info@madetosew.com. Aneka x
Hi Felicia, I would work with the Apex of the Bust on the pattern. Draw from the dart legs to the Bust Apex on the pattern. The method will move the dart and get you to re-draw it anyway. Hope this helps? Aneka
What if i am working with a pattern that are jumping from one size to another For example bust size 4 but waist is size 8 then do i cut this out and then do the fba?
@@MadetoSew i gave this method a try, after adding the inches to the upper bust, so my Ub was 33+2” ( as it was B cup pattern). The shoulder were so big and droppings. I watched another tutorial that i am working on mock no2 , she doesnt add any inch to the upper bust. She choose the upperbust as a shoulder size. Any size that fall with 33” is the size i would make and do the fba. Let see how that works
@@pinsandneedlesx8825 You can definitely do this; choose the High Bust as the shoulder size. I do mention this in the Understand FBA video. This method isn’t really correct but it works on a lot of the big four patterns because they are often drafted quite large across the chest and shoulders. If you were working with an independent pattern company or one of my patterns then you will want to do the correct method (as usually the shoulders and chest are smaller). I have lots of people in classes that do the Upper Bust size plus FBA on the big four; take a note of the pattern brand you are using when this works so you can apply it for next time. Hope that helps and I hope it worked.
Hi Michelle, if the top doesn't have a dart you can complete the same process and by doing an FBA you will add a dart into the top. This is usually better for very large busted ladies, a dart achieves a better fit. If you want to remove the dart there are a number of ways to do this and it does depend on the garment. The easiest way is to simply remove it from the bottom of side seam, the width of the dart and blend out the length of the dart. Is that clear? I will do a tutorial on it soon. In terms of being cut on the fold this doesn't matter, this sample is also cut on fold. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, great tutorial! Very useful for me, as I have a rather large bust. I would like to ask you something though: do I also have to re-position the bust appex too? And if so, what do I do first? The FBA or the bust appex? Oh, and another question: can I create a dart for a full bust, to a pattern that originally doesn't have one? (for example to the front of a wrap dress)
Hi Chrisa, I would do the FBA and then find the Bust Apex. The FBA adds fabric into the bust, so if you find the bust apex right it will move when you do the FBA. Hope that helps? Yes you can also do an FBA on a pattern with no dart and this will create a dart. I would always recommend this for a full bust, patterns generally fit better with a dart. Hope this helps? Aneka
@@emmacharlton681 It might be ok if you are starting from no dart, as your dart will be starting at 0. And if you do need a large FBA I would suggest that unless you are working with jersey or stretch fabrics that fit the body closely, having darts in a garment will always look better, allowing fabric to fit your curves. 😀
@@MadetoSew I've been watching your tutorials this past week and I have success with the fba. I'm a beginner so I am very happy with myself and what I've achieved. I love how straight forward your videos are thank you ❤️
Absolutely fabulous, and succinct and clear. Thank you Aneka. I assume the back of the garment will need to be lengthened the same amount the front was lengthened? (Truing side seam?)
Really pleased that you enjoyed it. The back of the garment won't need to be lengthened, because the length of the front of the garment hasn't changed. The length adjustment on the side is in the middle of the dart, simply making the dart longer. The CF is lengthened for the FBA, by moving this down to match the side seam, but the side seam hasn't actually been lengthened. Does this make sense? Aneka
My goodnesses, I nearly cried . I’ve tried doing fba’s in the past and couldn’t understand how to do it. Just watched yours and did a toile. Fits beautifully. I had to add 6inches for my large bust . Thank you so very much .
Sorry for missing your kind comment above. So pleased that you found this video helpful and managed to make a toile to fit. I hope since you posted this comment you have also managed to make some beautiful projects?
This tutorial is a complete lifesaver! I did an FBA to a basic dress bodice with a B-cup and got it up to a D, which fits perfectly now. But the pattern also has darts at the bottom, which look really bulky and unpleasant now, so I'll follow your advice and take the extra off the sides for my second toile.
Thanks so much for your awesome explanations! I'm really new to this and I managed to pull the FBA and the truing off on my first try.
God, what did people do before the Internet? Sit at home and cry, I suppose.
Hi Eva, I am so pleased I could help. Thank you so much for your lovely words. Aneka x
You are amazing! I watched dozens of fba videos and NOT ONE teaches you what to do with extra fabric at the waist. Thank you for these videos
omg. I actually paid money to get taught this technique. This video was a zillion times better. You Rock Miss Aneka!
SO pleased I could help. Thanks so much. This comment has made my day! Aneka xx
I have watched quite a few videos on FBAs. Yours is by far the best explanation. Thank you .x
Fantastic tutorial, so clear and I love that you explain the reasons WHY something is done the way it is, very useful and helps understanding. Thankyou!
So pleased I could help. Thank you. Aneka x
Oh my goodness, you've just made the fog lift for me!! This has been baffling me for so long and now I'm ready to tackle it. Thanks so much :)
This is incredible. I am so pleased. Aneka x
Unbelieveable! I’ve always been so afraid to make any pattern adjustments (except for length and maybe adjusting the side seams). You make it so logical and easy to understand. So happy that I saw you on That Sewing Blab. You’ve opened up a whole new world for people like me. Thank you!
I am so pleased you found it useful. Thank you so much for your lovely words, just so pleased I could help. Good luck with your next FBA! Aneka x
Thank you for another user friendly tutorial. I especially appreciate the information on how to remedy the extra room added to the waist after the FBA.
Thank you, really pleased you liked it. Aneka x
This is the best FBA tutorial I've been able to find. Very clear and helpful, with nothing omitted. I'm a beginner, sewing my first adult garment, a simple loose fitting tank top. I just tissue fit after doing the fba with this tutorial and the fit is so much better than sizing up would have been!
Thanks so much Megan. So pleased I could help. xx
Thank you! I am taking up sewing out of necessity as I have a narrow frame and a proportionally very large bust. (Hips 92 cm and a 16 cm difference at the bust.) Your tutorials are the best I have found on the subject. Very clear and precise.
Thank you so much. Aneka x
Clear instructions, explanations and demonstration. I successfully altered a pattern from B cup to DD in my first ever FBA. Much thanks, I’m subscribing!
Thank you so much for this great tutorial and explanation. This is the first time I really understood how the FBA works and how I can alter a pattern correctly. I often had fitting problems: always too much fabric above the bust and too little below. Now I know what to do. So thank you and be sure I will watch ALL of your videos and tutorials because I know that I will learn a lot.
Thanks very much! Really pleased I could help. Good luck with the fitting! 👍
Well, after all these years, I've finally got it! Thank you so much. This tutorial has erased so much struggle and frustration.
Incredible! Thank you. Aneka x
Fantastic tutorial Anika as usual and as always, so clear 👍. I loved watching you on 'That Sewing Blab' yesterday and it was lovely hearing about your sewing story and how you got where you are today. Very exciting to be doing meet ups in America and I'm sure you will be fighting them off in many countries soon and wowing them with your amazing skills 😊. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the FBA's 👍💞😘
Hi Sally, you are so kind. Thank you SO much. Really please that you like watching 'That Sewing Blab' and this tutorial. Huge thank you. Aneka xxx
Great tutorial easy to understand and explained so well in a lovely clear queens English voice by a great teacher. not gabbled or rushed like so many tutorials that leave one just as confused at the end
Thanks very much. Really pleased I could help you.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It is the third one I have watched in an effort to improve my garment fit...I wish I had found this one first. I will be looking in on the other tutorials you put a link in. Thank you again!
Thanks do much Nadine for some lovely feedback. Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
I've been referring to your videos for quite some time. You are truly an excellent teacher. You make everything so clear.
Thank you for taking the time to write such a lovely comment. Aneka x
Thank you so much! This tutorial was the best one I’ve ever seen! I’m hooked! I have a D cup and I’m also tall with a high waist. I love a vintage 40’s style and this has helped me so much to get a perfect fit.
Hi Melissa, so pleased I could help. Thank you. Aneka xx
Made to Sew 🥰
Thank you! You have helped me so much ....I've done a FBA course, bought and a tutorial from another sewing co....but yours is the easiest to understand and very well explained. Thank you
I have a new pattern that I think I'll need this for, so looking forward to trying out this and your other tutorials to make a better dress than I've been able to manage previously! I'm sure I'll learn a ton by putting them into practice.
Hi Caitlin, I really hope I can help. Good luck! Aneka x
What a beautiful job you did. You're a great teacher. Clean ,concise......well done.
Thank you very much Terri. Aneka 💖
Fantastic tutorial. Returning to dressmaking after several years so very rusty on these techniques. I always have to adjust the bust. Just brilliant explanation. Thank you.
Thank you Anne.
Great tutorial thanks. I have successfully done 1 1/2" fba on a dress. However I now need to remove that amount from the hip area. The waist is fine. Also I am working with a line dress with no waist seam.
Hello, you could cut the pattern off at the Waist, do the FBA and then join it back together, matching the centre front. Then blend from the waist to the low hip. Does that help? Aneka
This is THE BEST explanation of a fba I have ever seen. Thank you so much for sharing your skill and talent with all of us ! Liked and subscribed! ❤️.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! you are an amazing teacher, I really appreciate how thorough and clear you are with every step.
Thanks so much Vanessa. Aneka x
Thankyou so much. This has opened my eyes to the silly mistakes I have made over the last 12 months. I'm so excited to start on my pattern alterations again 😊
Really pleased I could help. Thank you! Aneka x
The best fba tutorial.thanks so much. You are a great teacher.
Thank you Marieann, I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
Brilliant you always explain things so clearly.You answer my questions before I ask them .
Thank you so much Maureen. Really pleased I could help. Aneka x
Thanks for this video! I’ve just followed the instructions the first time.
What I don’t understand is how a rack quite snug dress can fit really quite well and anything sewn seems to need lots of adjustments. Can’t wrap my head around it. Binging your videos anyway :)
You are right! It does help that we get to try the items on before we buy in the shops. So we don't buy it if it doesn't fit, and we generally know what brands and size we are in certain brands. You might find some pattern companies fit better than others?! A bit like in the shops each designer will design for a different 'person' (shape, size, age etc.) Glad I could help. Aneka x
Hello Aneka, I have just watched this video on FBA. My question is, I need to alter my apex, and also do a FBA, so which do i do first? If I do the apex first, and then the FBA, the apex moves from the original place that I would have made it, and therefore would I need to realign it again? The pattern that I want to do does not have a side dart, and I am taking the measurement from the pattern size 20 as my bust is 43". I am a little confused as to how to adapt the pattern to fit my bust. Any information as to how I go about it would be gratefully appreciated, thanks Val.
Thank you for this video. I also watched the video in trueing the bust dart using the tracing wheel and it worked!!!!!! I am so happpyyyyyy
Amazing, glad I could help.
@@MadetoSew one question. Is there a tutorial for FBAs when only a waist dart exists? I am probably over-thinking but I can't settle in where the cut lines would be. My latest thought is to do the both the side and waist fba and then transfer the side dart to the waist which would increase the original waist dart.. Thank you again sooo much.
@@jacquiemcallister9585 Hi Jacquie, yes, that is what I would do. Cut a line horizontal to the bust apex into the side seam. And then use dart manipulation at the end to move the side dart into the waist dart. Good luck!
Hi and Thanks!!! so clearly explained. However, I am wondering how can i keep my seam allowance in the armhole"flat". I am trying to apply the technique, but i get a fold in there.
The paper will cross over when you do the adjustment, as you should have cut into the seam allowance in the armhole and used that as a pivot point. You just need to re shape the curve afterwards, blending it smooth. Does that help? Aneka x
What order should I do my adjustments - FBA, moving apex, and lowering the dart - if I need to make adjustments on all three? Thank you for such helpful tutorials!
This is the best tutorial I've seen so far. Perhaps you have it programmed, but if not, will you consider an FBA instruction video for strapless bodices?
I haven't actually thought of this, but of course it's something I can do. Added to the list :-)). Aneka x
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial. Could you please do a tutorial showing how to do a full bust adjustments on a top with a cut on sleeve like The New look pattern 6217 top B. I have a full bust of 44 a high bust of 40 and a bicep of 14 and 1/2. I am not sure if I should lower the armhole or raise the top of the sleeve to increase the sleeve width. Rayon
Sorry did not mean to write rayon. Thank you for any help
Such a clear video ,now I can understand the information previously read. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
you were born for this. Great videos
Thank you for your kind words.
Very good video! You made the FBA dart much more understandable for me.
Great to hear!
Your explanation is so clear. Thank you! After the FBA, does the armhole need to be redrawn? Just looking at the final altered pattern piece, it looks like the armhole is now a bit distorted.
Hi Fiona, you do not need to re-draw the armhole. Although the shape of the armhole has changed the length is the same as it was before the adjustment. I think we all have an idea that armholes should be a 'certain shape', usually when I am drafting patterns from scratch for my customers with a fuller bust their armholes will be a hook shape, quite different from what we see in commercial patterns. Hope this helps? Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Thank you for your helpful reply (on another video comment) I have watched this again and I would like you to check if my calculations are correct, thankyou so much. I am making a wedding dress for the daughter of a close friend - the bride is pregnant and will be almost 30 weeks on the wedding day which is early in May! her measurements are high bust 95cm full bust 103.8 cm, difference 8.8 cm which places her between a C&D cup The Vogue pattern I'm using has a D cup front bodice piece. I made the first mock in sz 22 because that matched her full bust m'ment (before I watched your tutorial) but it was too small, (plus we wanted to create a way to allow for some unpredictable increase in size due to her advancing pregnancy) so I tried adding a little width to the front pieces (by slashing & spreading) over the bust area and pleating it back in at the empire waist seam and at the front shoulder to fit with bthe back shoulder! Don't laugh!!! You probably know what happened - we had a bodice that fit easily over the bust top to bottom and has room for expansion too but a terrible gaping excess of fabric into the armhole and side seam. Then I found you.
Now my calculations on above measurement using the extemely large bust technique suggests I should do the bodice in sz 16 D cup. I am a bit confused by the fact that the sz 16 bust measurement is 97cm which is actually smaller than her high bust mm. Does that mean I should do a sba on that sz or should I use the B or C cup pattern piece? sorry about the essay! I hope it's ok to ask for your help like this. I have just started doing some pattern making courses online through udemy and I would be willing to pay for the kind of instruction you are giving here on your channel for free. thank you so much for your previous advice I really appreciate it.
Hi Heather, are you able to email me some pictures of the pattern? I am also interested in the finished garment measurements for the pattern. Have you looked at those? They are usually on the pattern, by the Bust, Waist and Hip. Or in the instruction booklet.
If the pattern already has Cup sizes then you shouldn’t need to do a FBA. But the pattern should give you a High Bust and Full Bust measurement. And you want to check that the finished garment size for the Bust is larger than your friends Bust. My email is info@madetosew.com. Aneka x
Hi Aneka, Yes I could, does that mean you will give me the email address to send it to? how do we do that? (I'm all new at this commenting thing!!) the finished garment mmt is only backlength from base of neck to waist. Thankyou so much for your quick response
@@heatherwade872 Hi Heather, I have replied to your email. Sorry for the delay. Do check your junk/spam if it isn't with you. I have also linked this video for you: ruclips.net/video/Hme13MjUz1Y/видео.html I think this will help you understand how to find the finished garment measurements. Vogue are usually quite good and have them on the individual pattern pieces, as well as some more in the Instruction Book for the pattern. Aneka x
Awesome. You are one of the very best I have seen . Wish I knew this when I was younger.
Thank you Mary.
What about the arm hole ? That has moved ? Thank you for an excellent tutorial :)
Thanks Emma. The armhole has pivoted but usually it doesn't need changing, the actual length of the armhole is the same. If you have to do a very large adjustment you can pivot through a few points, the armhole, higher up the armhole and the shoulder at the same time. Hope that helps, A x
Good Morning Anika, you have helped me with a FBA and I sewed out a test sample and from the high bust down everything fit perfectly. Now above the high bust, which is 39, and I used the pattern size for the high bust measurement, it is to large. from shoulder to shoulder the pattern is 19 inches and my shoulder to shoulder measurement is 15 inches. So I need to remove two inches on each side of the front bodice above the high bust. I think I know how to do this, but I just wondered if you could tell me if I need to leave any ease or just go with the 15 inch measurement plus seam allowance. No wonder when I sew nothing ever fits correctly. I am just built so weird!! Thank you so much for all your help and this should be the last question to finally get a pattern that fits.
Hi Cindy, Glad you hear you are making progress. Are you working with a pattern by one of the Big Four companies? They can make their shoulders and the upper part of the garment very large (compared to the figures I use when drafting). Sometimes you need to actually choose a smaller pattern size and do a larger FBA.
Anyway, for now let's focus on the shoulders. It does depend on the garment how much ease would be added to the shoulder / cross front area. It depends if it has sleeves or not, and it also depends on your neck shape and size. I usually work to draft the neck, then the shoulder.
Probably the easiest thing, would be to take your same and mark on the smaller sizes. The you could see which size would suit you best clearly? Does that make sense?
Also incase you are interested. I have just started to launch my new pattern range. I have two size ranges but one is specifically designed for individuals with curves that are smaller in the shoulders / cross front.
I have this Blog Post that might be of interest to you: madetosew.com/what-size-to-choose/ and in the post there is a super detailed Size Chart (madetosew.com/wp-content/uploads/Made-to-Sew-Size-Chart.pdf) where I basically cover more 'approx sizes' than normal.
Maybe take a look at the size 7 or 8 in the 7-15 size range. They are designed for a D Cup bust, so the High Bust for the 7 is 39" and the shoulder (individual) is 4 3/8" so small!
I have more pattern styles coming soon. But it might help.
Let me know how you go with what you re working on? Aneka
I love that you took your time to explain Ma,God bless you Momma ❤
Best fba vid!!!
Thank you for explaining in detail everything we need to know!
Awesome video!! 🙂
Thanks so much Carissa. Glad it helped you.
You te are such a good teacher ! I live your channel ! Everything is so clear with you !!! Thank you !
Thank you so much Sarah, so pleased I could help. Aneka x
Excellent instruction. Very detailed and informative, just what I needed.
Thank you.
Just a wonderfully clear tutorial. I can’t thank you enough.
Thanks Patricia.
These tutorials are always so very helpful, thank you x
Thank you. Glad you like them!
Thank you very much. This is the best fba-tutorial.
Thank you very much.
Hi ...thank you for this...the arm hole was a weird shape after the fba ...as shown on your example ...do you just trace the original arm hole to the new pattern.
Hi D, I would leave the armhole shape as it is after the FBA. If you draw the original back on you could alter things. If you have done a very large FBA you can use other pivot points to prevent the armhole being really angular? Such as the shoulder, or higher in the armhole, or both. But most of the time the armhole will be fine with the adjustment.
Hello love your tutorial my question is if my bust measurements are bigger than my waist and hip . I would cut the pattern with both the bust and waist do the FBA first then grade down the waist and hip? I would assume then I wouldn’t have to alter the waist for being too big?
Hi Kimberly, Yes that is correct. I would pick the correct bodice size for your bust. The general rule with alterations is length, curves e.g. FBA, then width, in that order. So do the FBA and then sort out the width of the waist and hip accordingly. Good luck!
I enjoyed your video and followed along with my own pattern. It seems that on my pattern, as well as yours, the armhole shape has been distorted. I would be very grateful if you could explain how to deal with this issue. Thanks in advance.
Hi Karen, yes the armhole shape does change slightly when completing an FBA, because we use the armhole as a pivot point. However the length of the armhole has not been affected, so you do not need to make any amendments to your sleeve pattern or changes to the armhole shape. Does that make sense? Make up a sample or toile and let me know how you get on. Best,
Aneka x
Great video, real easy to understand and follow. Also, what if the side seams don't match because the shoulder to waist is about 3" longer in the front than in the back? How do you fix that?
Great video. I'm still a bit afraid of doing this though. Do you need to do anything to the arm hole as the shape has now changed?
Hi Stuart, thank you. No you don't need to amend the armhole, if you cut to the stitching line and then cut through from the edge of the pattern to the stitching line (so you have not amended the stitching line), you will not need to do anything to the armhole. The shape of the armhole has been affected but the size has not changed. You can have a play moving the location of the line from the bust apex to the armhole if you are doing a large FBA. Hope this helps, Aneka
Thank you for such an informative video. You are an excellent teacher. I downloaded and printed your free Copen pattern, so great that I was able to print just the sizes I need. I love that you have put waist darts into it. When will you release your other patterns?
Thank you for such a lovely comment. I am so pleased you liked the tutorial and like Copen. I hope to release my other patterns as soon as possible, all the patterns are ready and have been graded, but they need to be made pretty (like Copen), which I have to pay a graphic designer to do. Hopefully it won't take long to get the first one out! Sorry to keep everyone waiting. Aneka x
Hello thank very much for helping me with FBS I really understand your teaching but my question is pls do i add the extra lints to the back bodies? Thank you I know is been a while you made this video hope I get reply thank you very much
You do not want to add the extra length to the back bodice. The front bodice should not be longer than the back bodice at the side seam, they should still match at the side seam. Aneka
Very well explained but wow mind is boggled now. Im off to put into practice what I have learned 😀
Good luck!
Thank you Aneka! This is a wonderful tutorial!
Glad it helped. Aneka x
This was awesome as usual Aneka, thank you so much. I’d like to eventually have a almost completely me made wardrobe and all your wonderful tutorials is helping me on my journey. Once again thank you very much.
Hi Estelle, so pleased I could help. Thank you :-))
As always, loved this tutorial...love, love, love the detail you give.
Thank you so much Michelle. Aneka x
Thank you for this video - it is so clear and I'm looking forward to trying it on a pattern soon. However, the pattern I'm currently trying to make is a wrap dress and the dart goes from the lower part of the armhole downwards towards the bust apex. This means, following your tutorial, the line you cut from the armpit is the same as my dart line - so i only have 1 line to cut... Do i just still pivot from the stitch line on this one cut? How would I keep my 'vertical' vertical?! Also, my high bust is 35.5 and my full bust is 38, so assuming my pattern is for a B, I'm only 1/2 inch bigger - 1/4 on each side! Is it even worth doing the bust adjustment on a wrap dress?!
Used your FBA and it worked perfectly. Do you have a tutorial for a broad upper back adjustment?
Really pleased it worked for you. No I don't, I have it on my list for filming asap. Aneka
Hi Aneka, I’m sorry to bother you but I’m making the Copen dress and I’ve altered the pattern to fit but when I pin the side seams together the front is longer than the back by 2”. It seems to be the top part of the pattern which is longer and yet it fits me. I know I could just cut the bottom of hem but I would like to know what I’ve done wrong. I don’t know wether this makes sense to you. Many thanks Freda.
Hi Freda, did you do an FBA? Did you add the extra length to the centre front (and not remove that length from the side seam)? I presume it was ok before you did the adjustment? Are you able to send me a photo of your work? My email is info@madetosew.com. Best, Aneka
I’ve watched this over and over and I have a question about the amount of fabric that makes up the side dart on the inside of the garment. When I bring the lines of the dart together that fabric a very large. Which lines do I match up to sew the dart? Will I lose some of the fba if I use the original dart lines?
Hi Diane, you should be matching together the original dart leg lines. But after doing the FBA the dart will be larger in width than it was before. This is normal. The larger the cup size, the larger the dart required on a garment. If the dart is very large, you can trim the inside bulk of the dart away and make a cutaway dart. This video shows you how to do this: madetosew.com/how-to-draft-a-cut-away-dart/ Any questions let me know? Does this help? Aneka
@@MadetoSew it absolutely helps! Thank you!!
@@dianegould1696 great news!
Hello Aneka, I have just done a fba and a lower apex adjustment on a wrap dress. Because my bust measurement is large the dart is large. On looking at the side seams on the back bodice which I have lengthend to match the front, the side seams do not match, the dart seems too large, and the shape of the side seams are different, the back one is straight and the front seam has a juxta position (the only way I can describe it). Therefore the seams do not match. I am so frustrated at trying to do all these measurements, and they never seem to work. Can you tell me how to correct this problem. I found that if I put he dart back to its original size the seams match up ????? Very bizarre. Thanks again for your very informative videos. Val.
Hi Val,
The back pattern side seam should not be changed when doing a FBA.
The inside of the dart has got bigger. But the actual side seam of the front of the pattern shouldn’t have changed.
The angle of the front side seam may have changed due to the dart.
To true the seams together make sure you fold the dart (like it’s sewn) to true it and then match the side seams together.
Does that make sense?
Because the difference should only be inside the dart, which will be sewn, the actual length of the seams shouldn’t change.
Let me know if this makes sense?
Aneka
A great tutorial as everything was so clearly explained. Thank you
Thank you. I'm so pleased it was helpful.
If I’m adding .875” to each of the front bodice pieces for the FBA, and I want to move the same amount of width over to the side seam per the end of the video, how do I match the front to back bodice seams? won’t they now be different lengths when sewn up? Thanks!
Because the amount if added to the inside of dart you won't actually be changing the length of the side seam. If you close the dart (fold it closed) and match the stitching lines to the back, you will see it's the same length. Aneka 😃
@@MadetoSew many thanks! I’ll need to make up a toile and see how I did
@@newsworthya Let me know how you get on.
@@MadetoSew Hi, I've completed my fba per message above, but having some issues. I'm making a woven A-line sleeveless top with bust darts (Helen's Closet Ashton top). My high bust is 33.5" and my full bust is 36.75". The size 8 top, has a 33 inch high bust and a 35" full bust so I used this size. (Also the finished garment measurements are 37" high bust and 39" full bust). I followed around with your video and took my full bust minus the full bust of the size 8 pattern. So 36.75" - 35"= 1.75" . I divided by 2 and made .875" adjustment on the quarter bodice front piece. I think I did the math right? Anyway, I've made the toile and the shirt seems too wide, and there is some extra fabric at the end of the darts that I don't fill out. Also, the hem of the blouse is not parallels with the floor, it rides up a little in the front. So I'm trying to figure out my next steps. If I try the fba again, but at a smaller amount, how do I determine what amount to try instead of the .875"? And how do I deal with the front not being parallel to the floor. I have photos if that would help, but don't think I can add them here. I really appreciate any help you can provide!
@@newsworthya Hello, thank you for the informative message. You have done the maths correct and added the right amount to the FBA based on your measurements and the measurements of the pattern.
Happy for you to send me photos. Do you have instagram? I am @madetosew
In terms of the darts not filling out this could simply be the shape of your bust. You might just need to shorten the bust darts slightly. For example some people have more curve on the side of their bust, others at the front. The darts need to point to the curve, so the length of the dart does depend on this.
The amount of ease in the garment 4" (difference between the size 35" and the finish garment size 39") is quite a lot and it might be that you simply don't like this amount of room in your clothes. To a certain extend we are all different. You could go down a size or work to adjust this size. Is the high bust also loose? Can you go down a size here as well?
With regards to how the garment is hanging, this isn't all on the bust. It could also be on your shoulders and how the garment fits your shoulders; for example is it falling to the bacik at the shoulders?
Sorry lots to consider. Aneka x
Hi Aneka. Thanks for this very informative video. I’ve learnt so much from it. Very comprehensively explained. Can I ask one question. Does this process work on a wrap bodice? I’m making a bridesmaid dress for a friend and this is the chosen style which I’ve had great difficultly in fitting? I have had to add a side dart as you mentioned in order to improve fit and although I’ve chosen the largest bust size in the pattern range the garment is still tight over the bust whilst the shoulder area is now too large. Hope you can offer some advice.
Hi Sue, yes you can use the seam method for a wrap top. If the grainline for the wrap top is parallel to the wrap shape then ignore this and use the centre front line to keep things straight as you are adding in the volume. Good luck. Aneka
Dear ma'am, Thankyou for your efforts!! :) Kindly explain, after doing this fba, the high bust line is increasing, which loosens the fitting there, i.e., @ under arm point. How to correct this?
Why does the line need to be parallel to the grainline? In my pattern (a wrap top to a dress) the grain line about 45 degs from centre front, I would assume the line to the waist be at an angle?
Additionally, my side dart is is above the bust mark on the pattern, would I draw the line from the bust point to the middle of the dart?
Hi Chelsey, you are correct you would use the centre front and keep everything parallel with this, rather than your grainline? I presume the grainline is on the same angle as the shape of the wrap? This is because it will stabilse the angle of the wrap and prevent it from gaping. Feel free to email me pictures if you need: info@madetosew.com.
In terms of the side dart yes draw3 from the centre to the bust point. You can always move the side dart after doing the FBA.
Hope this helps? Aneka
Hi Anika,
Thank you!!!
I've really enjoyed your tutorials, they have been very useful and informative. I wanted to do a FBA to a pattern with 1 dart but its on the waist, how do I do this? also, if there ends up being a difference between front and back bodices how do I adjust them without altering the back as its good for my measurements. Many thanks
Hello Soledad, you could follow the same method that I show here. It will of course create you a dart in the side seam, but you could use dart manipulation to send that dart back to the waist dart (this video: ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html) or you could keep a side dart. That way your front and back will sew together at the side seam. Thanks, Aneka
Great tutorial Aneka! I fall under the category of an extremely large bust, where my full bust is 5 inches larger than my high bust. Is there an upper limit for FBA, and if that is the case, what should I do?
Hi Amber, you will be able to get away with 2 1/2" in the FBA. (5" total difference between high bust and bust). Much more than say 2 1/2" - 3" and you might start to struggle, because the pattern does start to become distorted. Let me know how you get on. Aneka x
I have the same problem as Amber. My high bust is 38”. My full bust is 44. That’s a SIX INCH difference, divided by 2=3”!! I need to add 3” on my FBA??? Is that correct? That’s a lot of adjusting, it would seem. Is this correct?
???
Most of the full bust adjustments are made on the front pattern. Are there any adjustments made to the back, or the arm hole of the sleeve. Most adjustments are made equally around the front and back and to the sleeve if the sides are changed at all.
Wanda Hopson Hi Wanda, with this FBA you are not changing the side seam. So the side seam will still match the back perfectly. I would always check this after making an adjustment - true the pattern. But in this tutorial we add the extra amount required for the FBA straight into the dart. I hope that makes sense? I have other tutorials for different FBA examples coming! Aneka x
This is a great tutorial but I have a question. How do you do a FBA on a bodice with a dart only at the neckline?
The easiest way to do this (or to explain to you), is to you dart manipulation to send the dart back to the side. Then complete this tutorial. Then use dart manipulation to send it back to the neckline. ruclips.net/video/OkmPOaWkcrE/видео.html Does that help a bit? Aneka x
Absolutely brilliant tutorial. Thank you so helpful x
Thanks Mary.
Aneka, as always very professional video! Thank u.
Thank you so much. Aneka x
I am doing a FBA to a shift dress with only side dart. I am confused as to how to translate this video to a dress with no waist marking. Also this lengthens the CF which will make it longer in the front than at the sides?
Hi Keira, I would cut off the pattern at the waist, complete the FBA and then put it back together. You are correct that a FBA does make the pattern longer over the CF. The extra length is needed to go over the fuller bust. Once you have made the adjustment you will take the new length from the centre and draw a straight line to the side seam. It does not change the length of the size seam. I hope that makes sense? Aneka
Do bust darts always need to point upwards? I don’t wear bras and am a C/D cup so my apex is usually 2-3 in lower than drafted. I think I understand how to move the dart down. But does it matter whether the dart points up or points down? It seems like pointing down would better match my bust shape, but I don’t fully understand what the direction affects. Would that just be a matter of flipping the dart upside down? Thanks so much!
Hi Suzi, you could by all means have the darts pointing down, however generally you find that bust darts are either horizontal or point up to the bust, I think this is more flattering. What about putting the dart horizontally to your bust point? Then you can move it down to work with your bust apex? If you wanted the dart to point downwards you would just move the dart legs along the side seam to work with your bust apex (that you have moved). Watch my dart manipulation tutorial, this explains how to move darts about. Aneka x
Thanks for your reply! I'd never considered horizontal, that is a good idea!
Hello Anika i love your tutorial so much am trying it now but i have a question,do you use your basic bodice pattern that already has waist darts allowance or the one without waist dart allowance already in place
Hi Agatha, I have a video for one this a waist dart: this one you are watching and one without a waist dart: ruclips.net/video/CjVXpHXRlLM/видео.html. You can use either for this technique.
Ok so the bodice has been lengthened how to sew side seam to back with size differences?
The bodice has only been lengthened at the centre front, so you do not need to change anything on the back. The side seam has not changed. Aneka
Okay I will jump in and try this and see if I can understand why it works. This would mean when the article is lying flat; there would be a slight slope downward from side seam to centere front? Thank you for replying & stay warm! 😊
@@woolywonders5546 Let me know how you get on.
Any recommendations for a very FBA on breasts which are 10 or more inches larger than the rib cage? How far from the apex should the dart begin?
Hi Rebecca, when you say 10" difference from the rib cage. Do you mean rib cage of the high bust measurement? How far from the dart to the apex is a tricky one, I would start with say 2" and see how it goes. It is hard to say a set figure because in my opinion the distance the dart sits from the apex is based on the shape of the bust (as much as the size). The dart needs to point to the area of greatest curve; this might be the side of the bust, this might be the front. Usually on a fuller bust, the side of the bust will be curved, but this can depend on the bra too. I have had some ladies that still need a longer dart, as the side of the bust is flatter, only curving nearer the apex. I hope this helps? Aneka
@@MadetoSew
I mean from the fullest part of my bust to my rib cage under my bust is ten inches. My bra cup is a US J.
Band is a 38.
@@RebeccaLee-fy5hv Hi Rebecca, to work out your cup size you need to measure your High Bust (above your bust, rather than the rib cage). Bra sizes are worked out differently than cup sizes in dressmaking patterns. For example in Bra sizes a 38 J and a 32 J are going to have a different amount of cup volume, does that make sense? I think I example more about what a FBA is in this video: ruclips.net/video/UoiMxhN_H8Y/видео.html show how to measure the High Bust in that video at about 02:25. Let me know what the difference is between your High Bust and Full Bust. Aneka :-))
@@MadetoSew Upper/High Bust is 47, fullest part of my bust is 53.. Difference of six inches.
@@RebeccaLee-fy5hv Hi Rebecca, you are going to be doing an FBA of 3" then. I would recommend using 2 pivot points one in the shoulder and one in the armhole? This will then help to prevent the armhole from becoming too distorted? Let me know how you get on. Aneka
I didn't follow why if your high bust is 34 and full bust 38, you'd choose a 36 and add 2 inches instead of a 34 and add 4. Is it because the dart would be too big otherwise?
Hi Sandra, thanks for the question. You can do either method as it can depend on the pattern you are working with. The correct way is to take your High Bust and add the cup size of the pattern you are working with (usually this is a B Cup and 2", but it might be different), then you choose your size based on that finding.
Your Bust size might be 1" larger than this and that would be the amount of the FBA you need to do. Let's take your example: your high bust is 34" and full bust is 38". You are working with a Vogue pattern that is drafted for a B Cup (2" difference). So you take your High Bust and add the B Cup size to that = 36". That is the Bust size of the pattern you choose. But your full bust is 38", so 2" larger than the pattern size (because you have a D Cup 4" difference). So you need to add a total of 2" to the pattern in the form of an FBA. Does that help?
@@MadetoSew Yes, that's very clear, thank you very much! I don't know why they don't just always provide both a regular bodice with a B cup and one with a FBA to a D in the pattern sleeve. I know that still would not fit everyone but it would be a huge improvement and simple for pattern companies to do.
@@sandraobrien8705 Yes it would make it a lot easier. I am just finalising some of my patterns in my pattern range and they will all have different cup sizes. 😃
Is it not necessary to address the difference in the armscye curve after the FBA...it looks like it has changed.
Hi Elaine,
You are correct that the armscye curve has changed, but it has not changed the stitching line. Therefore the sleeve will still fit into the armhole. The change of shape is not a bad thing; we are used to seeing armholes that dressmaking pattern show us. I promise you if you are making a pattern from scratch for your individual figure they don't all look perfect like this. A lot of my customers with a fuller bust will have a hook shaped armhole instead, as the armhole wants to fit to prevent gaping.
If you are doing a very large FBA and the armhole has been extremely distorted you can pivot some of the FBA from the shoulder too; so the armhole and the shoulder.
I hope this helps? Aneka
@@MadetoSew thank you for the prompt explanation! Another reason I am overjoyed to have found you!
This is very nice. I have learned so much. Thank you.
So pleased I could help. :-))
That was a fantastic tutorial I really loved it, is there any way of contacting you for more important question on FBA pls.
Yes of course, please email info@madetosew.com Aneka :-))
Thanks for the great tutorial. I'm working on a beginner level woven top. The pattern is from an American Co and drafted for a C cup which I am. I've cut out my size based on the method you've described & made a toile. The bust fits ok but there is pulling across the top of the sleeve & alot of gaping at the back of the neck. Should I have cut the bust size according to my high bust? The armhole seems v big & gapes at the back too. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. X
Tracy Charalambous Hi Tracey, would you mind sending my some pictures? On Instagram or Facebook? I am madetosew. Then I can suggested the next best steps. Sorry, I just want to make sure I suggest the right thing! Aneka x
Made to Sew - l'm not really on any other social media but I'll try to get an account & send you some pictures
Tracy Charalambous you can email me if that’s easier? Info@madetosew.com - shame that you can’t share private images on RUclips. Aneka x
I have full/prominent bust with small bones structure, my shoulder seams always sit right at my shoulder point but then move toward the front bust at the neck point. Is a FBA going to fix this issue?
Hello! An FBA won't necessarily fix this issue, but you may need to be doing an FBA anyway? What is the difference between your High Bust and Full Bust? Send me photos of your issue and I will help info@madetosew.com. Aneka x
What do I do if my pattern's dart point isn't in the middle of my dart center and Apex of the bust?
Hi Felicia, I would work with the Apex of the Bust on the pattern. Draw from the dart legs to the Bust Apex on the pattern. The method will move the dart and get you to re-draw it anyway. Hope this helps? Aneka
What if i am working with a pattern that are jumping from one size to another
For example bust size 4 but waist is size 8 then do i cut this out and then do the fba?
Do the FBA first and then blend between sizes as the FBA will add an amount to the waist for you. So when you blend you may not be grading up as much.
@@MadetoSew so just cut only size 4. I am planing to toile today again.
@@pinsandneedlesx8825 Good luck.
@@MadetoSew i gave this method a try, after adding the inches to the upper bust, so my Ub was 33+2” ( as it was B cup pattern). The shoulder were so big and droppings. I watched another tutorial that i am working on mock no2 , she doesnt add any inch to the upper bust. She choose the upperbust as a shoulder size. Any size that fall with 33” is the size i would make and do the fba. Let see how that works
@@pinsandneedlesx8825 You can definitely do this; choose the High Bust as the shoulder size. I do mention this in the Understand FBA video. This method isn’t really correct but it works on a lot of the big four patterns because they are often drafted quite large across the chest and shoulders. If you were working with an independent pattern company or one of my patterns then you will want to do the correct method (as usually the shoulders and chest are smaller). I have lots of people in classes that do the Upper Bust size plus FBA on the big four; take a note of the pattern brand you are using when this works so you can apply it for next time. Hope that helps and I hope it worked.
Anika, I am working on a top without a dart that is cut on the fold. How would I do the fba on this type of garment?
Hi Michelle, if the top doesn't have a dart you can complete the same process and by doing an FBA you will add a dart into the top. This is usually better for very large busted ladies, a dart achieves a better fit. If you want to remove the dart there are a number of ways to do this and it does depend on the garment. The easiest way is to simply remove it from the bottom of side seam, the width of the dart and blend out the length of the dart. Is that clear? I will do a tutorial on it soon. In terms of being cut on the fold this doesn't matter, this sample is also cut on fold. Aneka x
What do you do with the arm area after you have done the fba
Hi Aneka, great tutorial! Very useful for me, as I have a rather large bust. I would like to ask you something though: do I also have to re-position the bust appex too? And if so, what do I do first? The FBA or the bust appex? Oh, and another question: can I create a dart for a full bust, to a pattern that originally doesn't have one? (for example to the front of a wrap dress)
Hi Chrisa, I would do the FBA and then find the Bust Apex. The FBA adds fabric into the bust, so if you find the bust apex right it will move when you do the FBA. Hope that helps? Yes you can also do an FBA on a pattern with no dart and this will create a dart. I would always recommend this for a full bust, patterns generally fit better with a dart. Hope this helps? Aneka
Made to Sew Thank you Aneka!
Hi would this tutorial work for a simple bodice without a dart?
Yes it would work. It will add you in a dart, which isn’t a bad thing if you need a FBA.
@@MadetoSew thank you I will watch again and try I need an extremely large fba so will be tricky
@@emmacharlton681 It might be ok if you are starting from no dart, as your dart will be starting at 0.
And if you do need a large FBA I would suggest that unless you are working with jersey or stretch fabrics that fit the body closely, having darts in a garment will always look better, allowing fabric to fit your curves. 😀
@@MadetoSew I've been watching your tutorials this past week and I have success with the fba. I'm a beginner so I am very happy with myself and what I've achieved. I love how straight forward your videos are thank you ❤️
@@emmacharlton681 Thanks so much Emma. I really appreciate the feedback, and I am just glad that I have been able to help you. Best, Aneka x
This is SOOOO helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for a crystal clear tutorial.
So pleased you enjoyed it Marie-Noelle. Thank you. Aneka x
Absolutely fabulous, and succinct and clear. Thank you Aneka.
I assume the back of the garment will need to be lengthened the same amount the front was lengthened? (Truing side seam?)
Really pleased that you enjoyed it. The back of the garment won't need to be lengthened, because the length of the front of the garment hasn't changed. The length adjustment on the side is in the middle of the dart, simply making the dart longer. The CF is lengthened for the FBA, by moving this down to match the side seam, but the side seam hasn't actually been lengthened. Does this make sense? Aneka
This is a fantastic video. Thank you.
Thank you. 😊
Excellent. Thank you. Now, the question is how to lower the dart as well?
Great news. I do show how to move the darts here: ruclips.net/video/0srC1njcaE4/видео.html Thank you. Aneka
Bravo! Very clear tutorial! 👌
Thank you!