Andy, hello. Thank you for taking the time to shoot a video about this excavator. No one else has done it. Only with your help I understand where to start fixing the S1 error. Thank you, I wish you and your family good health.
This is the best video and explanation repair for Hanix S&B 480 I've found in a month of searching. Thank you very much for this, you are the best! Special thanks for the links to the files. It's really cool!
I have a s&b 580 and had if I remember correctly, a S5 error code and gave up trying to fix it with no info available at the time. I converted mine to manual joystick controls and have the computer, joysticks and related wiring harnesses for sale if anybody needs them. Great video and you are awesome for helping people with these machines. Converting to manual joysticks gets the job done but not as smooth as the electric controls. As a side note my swing motor failed last year and no parts are available for that either. I adapted a Eaton piston motor in its place.
Aaron Shaw I was also thinking of a manual conversion until I ran across the Japanese manual, also it is a buddies machine and he really insisted that I got it working without modifications....
Your video has helped me a lot! I have a Mitsubishi MX 45 which is displaying a F7 code, would I be correct in assuming it is the boom up and down and bucket curl potentiometer? Either going bad or have completely gone bad?
Closest I see to that is F1 (F1-F4). F1 is joystick Wire break/sensor error right joystick front/back, potentiometer is out of adjustment or bad. Can be checked with multi meter if I remember correctly. I don't know where to get parts. No problem, hopefully this helps you out. Thanks 👍
"C1 Spool Center Abnormal Boom C2 Bucket C3 Arm C4 Swing Is spool returning to center?" I'd suggest checking the centering sensor might be bad or bad electrical connection somewhere. If you swap 2 of them around temporarily might help narrow down where the problem lies.
@ Thank you. I am aware of the throttle. I was told that the excavator had two speeds that you can use? Just wondering how to switch it to the faster speed?
@@billykabby9798 ok my friend just got back to me. He said there is a 2 speed switch on the right for ground speed although his doesn't seem to change the speed much.
Hello Andy, I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction. Today the key ignition came loose so I took off the plate and tightened it back up. Once I turned it back on, the boom doesnt work. Everything else works. The CPU light is flashing. It show a j3 error on the board. The safety switches have been bypassed by the previous owner.
Left stick front/back senson not reading center when key is cycled. It could be bad sensor or micro switch. Sometimes just giggling the stick will make it work.
I just bought a S&B580. The person I bought it from took the joy sticks off and just put sticks like the old rubber tie hoes used to have. The problem im having is making it track fast and slow. Its just in the crawling mode. Help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Yes, it doesn't have a switch or button to make it have two speeds. I was wondering if they have something on the machine itself to make it have two speeds.
@@jeremyturner6426 from what i see in the manual, they use different wheel motors. 580 looks like no 2 speed 480 2 speed but it is still super slow.. sorry
@@jeremyturner6426 I did more looking at the manual. From what i can tell pump 1&2 flow 30cc/rev pump 3 20cc/rev. I assume pump 1&2 are for the digging and 3 for the drive? Its hard to tell from the manual. I also found the wheel motors appear to use 22cc/rev 62.4 rpm.
code PS: The power supply voltage abnormality code H1: J / S disconnection / short The front and rear of the right my guess on H1 is a short or bad potentiometer on the forward back of the right stick
Its been awhile since I've looked at one of these but i think you could make mechanical linkages going down to the manual controls or you could get 2 loader spool valves, and totally bypass the oem stuff. Option 1 is probably the cheapest.
By any chance would u be able to send some picture of the hydraulic cylinder seals part #'s I have the same sb480 mini excavator but don't have the manual for it! Thanks
Thankyou soo much for this video I'm looking at a sb800 Hanix that has problems swinging left and right but sometimes works great. The price is really cheap I didn't realize how computerized these grey market machine are. After watching this video I think I'm going to pass on this and look for a mini with non computerized joysticks too much to go wrong.
I think it is a simple fix it works great sometimes then simply quits swinging left and right. Probably just a dirty connections, but I'm blown away at how they can take a simple joystick and wire it to a computer board with Soo many connectors to go bad. Why change things that work fine like most excavators and backhoes. Btw when I worked in tunneling TBM work they have French branded machinery called Metalliance absolutely overcomplex junk. I'm thinking I will spend more time fixing things then just buying a more robust yanmar or Deere. Thankyou I feel you saved me from making a huge mistake. I was going to buy the sb800 tommorow it's about 20k cheaper than most pc 80 sized machines in my area now I know why.
@@kylekayser2291 I think part of it is so the operator can change the control pattern easily. Probably seems good when new. What part of the country is this machine in?
@@AndyFromm Seattle Washington this prices of mini excavators is more than a pc120. I saw this Hanix 80 for 15k and thought it was a good deal. But after watching your video I'm staying away from these Hanix. Too many gremlins and issues when I need a mini I need it it work without problems. As I get older I don't have the time time re invent the wheel I need turn key machines other than basic things hoses and such. You seem very experienced with electronics.
@@kylekayser2291 thats too far and to much for me. Personally I prefer mechanical controls but would try hydraulic pilot. There are a few that run electric controls on skidsteer now days, not sure about other equipment.
I think I figured out how to do it, link in the video description. It is not easy to translate since it was a scanned version of the manual not originally a pdf.
Have had lots of problems very few solutions. My 21 pin harness (big one at bottom) the pins on back of board broke soldier and needed micro soldering. Went to phone repair place. Mitsubishi mx55
@Andy Fromm Well, I thought I figured it out. But after a few minutes of working I got an SI code again. I tightened the pins on the plug and I checked the board for bad solder joints and all looks good. If I move the wires at the bottom connection around sometimes it will reset. When i have this problem only the last two leds, LD10 and LD11 flash, but they flash left to right. Any ideas?
@@miken6495 S1 is Solenoid coil wire break/short circuit boom I'm not sure on the LD10/11, its been so long since I had it in my hands. The silicone like coating tends to be on outdoor type boards although I can't remember on this on particular. Hope you get it, I'll help if I can.
Hi Andy, I have a Mitsu MX55 that is giving me an F1 error code.and it doesnt cycle thru the LED diagnostic sequence. can you send me the manual or code list or list them here?
Eschibe i havent translated everything yet, it is quite a pain. the manual is a scanned to pdf not an original pdf so google translate is all i found that kinda works. I'll see what i can find out.
Code F1 translates: ECU Flashing, J / S disconnection / center abnormality, Right of Before After. I take this as right joystick for and aft. after 4:53 I talk about a bad or out of adjustment joystick potentiometer, it causes an f1-4 code. 1:18 i talk about joystick voltages. this is important to know for testing/calibrating the joystick potentiometers. first off, check the voltages at the plug on the board to see if the potentiometers are working while moving the joysticks. take the joystick boot off and then the top cover of the joystick to adjust the potentiometers.
ok, so i pull the rigt joystick back about 3/4 of t he way and the F1 goes but then i get J1 that stays even after i release the stick. but if i turn the key off, then back on i get an F1 again. rinse repeat.
got the top off of the right stick. by twisting the pot on the side in either direction fully , i can get an H1 code but never get rid of the F1 code. now, however i get only an H1 code that wont clear. no matter where the pot is rotated to.
J1: Blinking at startup Constant lighting The relationship between J / S output and micro SW is abnormal When the output is the center, when the output is in the operation state, the micro SW is OFF and the micro SW is ON (whether it is ON for more than 1 second) At startup: When the microswitch is ON while the I / S lever is neutral, if the microswitch is ON for more than 1 second, it becomes all working machine and turning stop (operation disabled) always: While the J / S lever is being operated If the microswitch is OFF, even if the J / S lever is tilted, only the failed channel regulates the valve spool and the working machine slowly moves
iv been trying to find mx45 wire diagram and eror code listing , I have a dreaded 51 code that comes and goes . can you please tell me where I can gt manual .
Not sure about the manual for your machine, the one for the hanix is in Japanese, if they have the same codes...it is a S1 S1: Solenoid coil disconnection / short circuit boom I would check all the connections on that boom circuit, that basically was this machine's issue.
@@leefarrell1758 i don't know how to find any. I did run across a dealer years ago in UK that knew about them, not sure if they can get anything. Good luck
@@illeskov I am so very sorry, I just saw your question. RUclips is very bad with notifications and doesn't show many of them. The pattern switch allows you to have different functions on the control sticks.
Hello Andy, first of all I would like to thank you for the very informative video. My excavator Hanix S&B 580 recently had the same problem and with the Japanese repair manual and google translate I was able to find the problem. Without your reference to the cables, plugs and leds !! I probably wouldn't have dared to start. THANK YOU! In my case, I was able to trace the left joystick / operating lever error to a defective potentiometer. Unfortunately I cannot find a spare part number for the potentiometer in the operating lever. I therefore replaced it with a Honeywell RTY270LVEAX range 270 degrees + - 135 and a self made adapter in a 3D printer. The potentiometer has been running reliably for a good 80 hours. Now I would like to replace the other 3 and preferably with original ones. You said in the video that you replaced the potentiometer. Do you have a spare part number and address where you can buy it? The Hall Sensor from Honeywell is currently out of stock 😊 Kind regards Thomas
I love that you got it figured out. Unfortunately I don't have a source for parts on these. My friend's 480 that i used in the video still has a minor dead spot in the one potentiometer but is usable.
@@AndyFromm Hello Andy, thanks for your answer. I bought 3 more sensors from Honeywell and will solder them in. Coincidentally this now sold out for several weeks. Since the previous built-in has no noticeable differences in operation from the original, it should work. Due to their size and my 3D printing adapters, they are somewhat out of the rubber sleeve. Furthermore, it sometimes has the error "L1", which indicates the defective differential transformer of the boom. I removed the control board that you show in your video and re-soldered the connections on the back of the board at the bottom right. There I saw a cold solder joint for the boom. Otherwise I probably have to check the sensors on the valve. Do you have a spare parts catalog? I would like to research beforehand whether there is a part or an alternative. Best Regards Thomas
Hello, Thomas! I saw your old post under the these video where You mention about the Japanese repair manual for Hanix S&B 580 ... Do you still have this manual? May I ask you to share a copy of it? Thank you. Sawada
lê lê S1: Solenoid coil disconnection / short circuit boom I would check all the connections on that boom circuit, that basically was this machine's issue.
C1: Spool center abnormal boom; Is the spool returning to the center?; All work machines and turning stop (cannot be operated). It looks like to me there is an issue with the spool valve returing to center, the center sensor is not working, and/or the wiring connection doesn't have a good connection. It says it is with the spool that controls the boom, under the floor.
Hey this is such a good video, thanks so much for making this you're a legend. I am getting a 5p code with flashing cpu light. I pushed slightly on the bottom large plug it would cycle normal and the relay would click and I'd be good to go. I thought I had fixed it by tightening up the pins, it worked each time I tried it without pushing on the plug. Then suddenly it stopped cycling and none of the little green lights would even light up and now I'm not getting a flashing cpu light either. Just a SP code. I've traced all the wires and greased all the contacts. Had the motherboard out and took it to a computer repair place and it seemed to be OK. I'm lost 😕 this seems like such a simple system but I can't seem to get ahead.
L3: Differential transformer open/short circuit arm. With this fault no joystick function will work. I would check and clean the connectors under the floor first.
@@ВикаЛагунова-х3е I did a lot more looking... the differential transformer is the sensor on the manual spool valves (under the floor) and tell the computer how far the spool valve is moving when the computer tells it to move. Per the manual: Reference voltage value When the spool is neutral The full deviation from the voltage value when the spool is neutral is 1.725 to 2.725 V When the full deviation from the voltage value when the spool is neutral is 1.725 to 2.725 V 2.15 to 2,85 V I would check one of the others voltage and compare. The one you are having trouble with is the arm.
@@AndyFromm Thank you very much, you've been very helpful. in my case, the harness rubbed against the corner of the frame that goes from the engine compartment to the control unit.
Andy, hello. Thank you for taking the time to shoot a video about this excavator. No one else has done it. Only with your help I understand where to start fixing the S1 error. Thank you, I wish you and your family good health.
Glad I could help, take care.
This is the best video and explanation repair for Hanix S&B 480 I've found in a month of searching.
Thank you very much for this, you are the best!
Special thanks for the links to the files.
It's really cool!
Thanks, I appreciate it 👍
Hopefully it's of some help.
I have a s&b 580 and had if I remember correctly, a S5 error code and gave up trying to fix it with no info available at the time. I converted mine to manual joystick controls and have the computer, joysticks and related wiring harnesses for sale if anybody needs them. Great video and you are awesome for helping people with these machines. Converting to manual joysticks gets the job done but not as smooth as the electric controls. As a side note my swing motor failed last year and no parts are available for that either. I adapted a Eaton piston motor in its place.
Aaron Shaw I was also thinking of a manual conversion until I ran across the Japanese manual, also it is a buddies machine and he really insisted that I got it working without modifications....
I am looking for ERU2-1 joysticks as mine were damaged. jaymi@keoweefm.com
@@AndyFromm could you locate parts for hanix?
hey i want to do a conversion message me on nicholas.ali22@hotmail.com
I don't have any place special, i just look up old part number on google
Your video has helped me a lot! I have a Mitsubishi MX 45 which is displaying a F7 code, would I be correct in assuming it is the boom up and down and bucket curl potentiometer? Either going bad or have completely gone bad?
Closest I see to that is F1 (F1-F4). F1 is joystick Wire break/sensor error right joystick front/back, potentiometer is out of adjustment or bad. Can be checked with multi meter if I remember correctly.
I don't know where to get parts.
No problem, hopefully this helps you out.
Thanks 👍
Thank you again for making this video and for all of your help on these machines!
No problem, glad I could help
Hey Andy, I have a few questions regarding a Hanix S&B 480. You wouldn't happen to know where to find parts for these, would you? Looking for idlers
I'm sorry, I don't but if I remember correctly there was someone in the comments here there was someone that did know where to get parts.
Great video. I have a S&B 580. Getting mostly C1 error code and boom operations stop. What are the C1-C4 codes mean? Thanks
"C1 Spool Center Abnormal Boom
C2 Bucket
C3 Arm
C4 Swing
Is spool returning to center?"
I'd suggest checking the centering sensor might be bad or bad electrical connection somewhere.
If you swap 2 of them around temporarily might help narrow down where the problem lies.
Thanks and good luck 👍
Hey Andy, how do you switch the speed on them? Is it that black handle on the right when you’re sitting in the machine? Appreciate your help.
@@billykabby9798 the engine throttle is to the left of the seat
@ Thank you. I am aware of the throttle. I was told that the excavator had two speeds that you can use? Just wondering how to switch it to the faster speed?
@billykabby9798 I don't recall any 2 speed on this machine.
It is my friend's machine, I will ask him.
@@billykabby9798 ok my friend just got back to me.
He said there is a 2 speed switch on the right for ground speed although his doesn't seem to change the speed much.
@@AndyFromm ok is it on the floor of the cab when your seated?
Hello Andy, I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction. Today the key ignition came loose so I took off the plate and tightened it back up. Once I turned it back on, the boom doesnt work. Everything else works. The CPU light is flashing. It show a j3 error on the board. The safety switches have been bypassed by the previous owner.
Left stick front/back senson not reading center when key is cycled.
It could be bad sensor or micro switch.
Sometimes just giggling the stick will make it work.
@@AndyFromm thank you Andy. This morning I turned it on and it just started working again. Appreciate the help.
I just bought a S&B580. The person I bought it from took the joy sticks off and just put sticks like the old rubber tie hoes used to have. The problem im having is making it track fast and slow. Its just in the crawling mode. Help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Do you mean it drives slow?
Yes, it doesn't have a switch or button to make it have two speeds. I was wondering if they have something on the machine itself to make it have two speeds.
@@jeremyturner6426 from what i see in the manual, they use different wheel motors. 580 looks like no 2 speed 480 2 speed but it is still super slow.. sorry
Thanks anyway.
@@jeremyturner6426 I did more looking at the manual. From what i can tell pump 1&2 flow 30cc/rev pump 3 20cc/rev. I assume pump 1&2 are for the digging and 3 for the drive? Its hard to tell from the manual. I also found the wheel motors appear to use 22cc/rev 62.4 rpm.
I have a P5 code showing on my S&B 580 when I switch ignition on. once i start it up it shows H1. After start up controls dont work. Any ideas.
I just saw your message, I'll work on figuring out that code.
code PS: The power supply voltage abnormality
code H1: J / S disconnection / short The front and rear of the right
my guess on H1 is a short or bad potentiometer on the forward back of the right stick
it is possible to use a digital volt meter on the plug on the board with the key on to test the potentiometers
will check and get back to you
P5 is voltage over 16v. Don't ask me how I know.
hey i have a hanix s&b 45 and cant seem to get the ecm could you help me into doing a manual control convertion?
Its been awhile since I've looked at one of these but i think you could make mechanical linkages going down to the manual controls or you could get 2 loader spool valves, and totally bypass the oem stuff. Option 1 is probably the cheapest.
The hydraulic spool is electric so everything is made on to the spool cap maybe I’ll need to buy spool caps and use hydraulic controls
@@tractec16 this one had manual override levers, yours does not?
By any chance would u be able to send some picture of the hydraulic cylinder seals part #'s I have the same sb480 mini excavator but don't have the manual for it! Thanks
Email me at andyjfromm@gmail.com and I will send the manual to you, good luck.
Hey Andy, Do you by chance have any leads on bottom undercarriage rollers for these machines?
Sorry, I have no parts.
look up roller for hx45 and h45 you can find em on amazon and xtptrack
@@DieselRamcharger I'll check this out thanks!
@@kr3wjones45 do you by chance know what one of these machines {S&B 480} actually weigh? im getting conflicting info from 9k-13k
@@DieselRamcharger I'm thinking the one I used was around 11k
Thankyou soo much for this video I'm looking at a sb800 Hanix that has problems swinging left and right but sometimes works great. The price is really cheap I didn't realize how computerized these grey market machine are. After watching this video I think I'm going to pass on this and look for a mini with non computerized joysticks too much to go wrong.
No problem, I wish you luck on it. Sometimes it can be simple fixes.
I think it is a simple fix it works great sometimes then simply quits swinging left and right. Probably just a dirty connections, but I'm blown away at how they can take a simple joystick and wire it to a computer board with Soo many connectors to go bad. Why change things that work fine like most excavators and backhoes. Btw when I worked in tunneling TBM work they have French branded machinery called Metalliance absolutely overcomplex junk. I'm thinking I will spend more time fixing things then just buying a more robust yanmar or Deere. Thankyou I feel you saved me from making a huge mistake. I was going to buy the sb800 tommorow it's about 20k cheaper than most pc 80 sized machines in my area now I know why.
@@kylekayser2291 I think part of it is so the operator can change the control pattern easily. Probably seems good when new.
What part of the country is this machine in?
@@AndyFromm Seattle Washington this prices of mini excavators is more than a pc120. I saw this Hanix 80 for 15k and thought it was a good deal. But after watching your video I'm staying away from these Hanix. Too many gremlins and issues when I need a mini I need it it work without problems. As I get older I don't have the time time re invent the wheel I need turn key machines other than basic things hoses and such. You seem very experienced with electronics.
@@kylekayser2291 thats too far and to much for me. Personally I prefer mechanical controls but would try hydraulic pilot. There are a few that run electric controls on skidsteer now days, not sure about other equipment.
Any chance you can share the original manual? Would help out big time...
I think I figured out how to do it, link in the video description. It is not easy to translate since it was a scanned version of the manual not originally a pdf.
Hi my come from Thailand now Hanix sb580 show C4 code you know problem?
C4: swing spool abnormality.
Spool not returning to center, spool sensor fault, or wiring fault.
Good luck
Have had lots of problems very few solutions. My 21 pin harness (big one at bottom) the pins on back of board broke soldier and needed micro soldering. Went to phone repair place. Mitsubishi mx55
Hey, Andy! You've helped me out before, and thank you for that!! I'm getting am intermittent F1 (FI?) code. What do I check
Nevermind!! I found the answer farther down in the conments!!
@@miken6495 let me know if you need anything else 👍
@Andy Fromm Well, I thought I figured it out. But after a few minutes of working I got an SI code again. I tightened the pins on the plug and I checked the board for bad solder joints and all looks good. If I move the wires at the bottom connection around sometimes it will reset. When i have this problem only the last two leds, LD10 and LD11 flash, but they flash left to right. Any ideas?
There's also a THICK coat of what looks like Silicone on the board. Did you notice if the one you repaired had this coating?
@@miken6495 S1 is Solenoid coil wire break/short circuit boom
I'm not sure on the LD10/11, its been so long since I had it in my hands.
The silicone like coating tends to be on outdoor type boards although I can't remember on this on particular.
Hope you get it, I'll help if I can.
Hi Andy,
I have a Mitsu MX55 that is giving me an F1 error code.and it doesnt cycle thru the LED diagnostic sequence. can you send me the manual or code list or list them here?
Eschibe i havent translated everything yet, it is quite a pain. the manual is a scanned to pdf not an original pdf so google translate is all i found that kinda works. I'll see what i can find out.
Code F1 translates: ECU Flashing, J / S disconnection / center abnormality, Right of Before After.
I take this as right joystick for and aft.
after 4:53 I talk about a bad or out of adjustment joystick potentiometer, it causes an f1-4 code.
1:18 i talk about joystick voltages. this is important to know for testing/calibrating the joystick potentiometers.
first off, check the voltages at the plug on the board to see if the potentiometers are working while moving the joysticks.
take the joystick boot off and then the top cover of the joystick to adjust the potentiometers.
ok, so i pull the rigt joystick back about 3/4 of t he way and the F1 goes but then i get J1 that stays even after i release the stick. but if i turn the key off, then back on i get an F1 again. rinse repeat.
got the top off of the right stick. by twisting the pot on the side in either direction fully , i can get an H1 code but never get rid of the F1 code. now, however i get only an H1 code that wont clear. no matter where the pot is rotated to.
J1:
Blinking at startup Constant lighting
The relationship between J / S output and micro SW is abnormal
When the output is the center, when the output is in the operation state, the micro SW is OFF and the micro SW is ON (whether it is ON for more than 1 second)
At startup: When the microswitch is ON while the I / S lever is neutral, if the microswitch is ON for more than 1 second, it becomes all working machine and turning stop (operation disabled) always: While the J / S lever is being operated If the microswitch is OFF, even if the J / S lever is tilted, only the failed channel regulates the valve spool and the working machine slowly moves
iv been trying to find mx45 wire diagram and eror code listing , I have a dreaded 51 code that comes and goes . can you please tell me where I can gt manual .
Not sure about the manual for your machine, the one for the hanix is in Japanese, if they have the same codes...it is a S1
S1: Solenoid coil disconnection / short circuit boom
I would check all the connections on that boom circuit, that basically was this machine's issue.
Andy Fromm it's a error 51 . Cpu flashes and controls dot respond it works sometimes but not others.
Ya I just it could be s1 .
If it's the same box as this one, it is S1 in the manual there isn't a "51" code
Andy Fromm do you know which connection is s1 I cleaned up the wires they were buried under 1 in of oil dirt and crap .
I literally just bought a s&b 580 today and it’s showing an S1 code now. Joysticks quit working
Its for solenoid boom circuit. Id start with checking connections & continuity.
@@AndyFromm thanks man. I’ll start looking this morning
@@AndyFromm I got it! Is it possible to get any replacement parts for this thing or do I need to improvise?
@@leefarrell1758 i don't know how to find any. I did run across a dealer years ago in UK that knew about them, not sure if they can get anything. Good luck
Do you know where the micro switches are located and what they look like?
I said "sp" in this video was voltages. I just looked it up again, it says short or disconnected patern switch
can you describe what is "pattern switch"? Or may be send me a manual? illeskov@gmail.com . Thnx
@@illeskov I am so very sorry, I just saw your question. RUclips is very bad with notifications and doesn't show many of them.
The pattern switch allows you to have different functions on the control sticks.
@@AndyFromm Big thanks, owner already bought some blocks and wires from same machine
hi. Do you happen to have an eeprom firmware file eeprom hanix s/b 480
Sorry, I don't
Hello Andy, first of all I would like to thank you for the very informative video. My excavator Hanix S&B 580 recently had the same problem and with the Japanese repair manual and google translate I was able to find the problem. Without your reference to the cables, plugs and leds !! I probably wouldn't have dared to start. THANK YOU! In my case, I was able to trace the left joystick / operating lever error to a defective potentiometer. Unfortunately I cannot find a spare part number for the potentiometer in the operating lever.
I therefore replaced it with a Honeywell RTY270LVEAX range 270 degrees + - 135 and a self made adapter in a 3D printer. The potentiometer has been running reliably for a good 80 hours. Now I would like to replace the other 3 and preferably with original ones. You said in the video that you replaced the potentiometer. Do you have a spare part number and address where you can buy it? The Hall Sensor from Honeywell is currently out of stock 😊
Kind regards Thomas
I love that you got it figured out. Unfortunately I don't have a source for parts on these. My friend's 480 that i used in the video still has a minor dead spot in the one potentiometer but is usable.
@@AndyFromm Hello Andy, thanks for your answer. I bought 3 more sensors from Honeywell and will solder them in. Coincidentally this now sold out for several weeks. Since the previous built-in has no noticeable differences in operation from the original, it should work. Due to their size and my 3D printing adapters, they are somewhat out of the rubber sleeve.
Furthermore, it sometimes has the error "L1", which indicates the defective differential transformer of the boom. I removed the control board that you show in your video and re-soldered the connections on the back of the board at the bottom right. There I saw a cold solder joint for the boom. Otherwise I probably have to check the sensors on the valve. Do you have a spare parts catalog?
I would like to research beforehand whether there is a part or an alternative.
Best Regards Thomas
@@hanixsb5807 i believe someone may have done some soldering on my friend's board before i looked at it. Sorry, i don't have a parts book
Hello, Thomas!
I saw your old post under the these video where You mention about the Japanese repair manual for Hanix S&B 580 ...
Do you still have this manual? May I ask you to share a copy of it?
Thank you.
Sawada
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p8hbrPwkTXlY_6HI4waIzjEDRk6wfLwV
I get an S1 code occasionally when starting, then the joysticks won't work.bRestarting at a later date it may work again.
S1: Solenoid coil disconnection / short circuit boom
I would check all the connections on that boom circuit, that basically was this machine's issue.
hi...can you help me...my excavator is error 51?
lê lê
S1: Solenoid coil disconnection / short circuit boom
I would check all the connections on that boom circuit, that basically was this machine's issue.
Hi! Can you help me? Cpu displays error C1. What does it mean?
C1: Spool center abnormal boom;
Is the spool returning to the center?;
All work machines and turning stop (cannot be operated).
It looks like to me there is an issue with the spool valve returing to center, the center sensor is not working, and/or the wiring connection doesn't have a good connection. It says it is with the spool that controls the boom, under the floor.
@@AndyFromm You helped me a lot. The problem was poor soldering of the contacts on the control unit board. Thank you very much! I wish you success!
@@СергейЧерных-р5н
I'm glad I could help and thanks for watching.
@@AndyFromm May I ask another question? Have you met any documentation on this excavator? Even in Japanese ...
@@AndyFromm I wanted to ask a guide from Japan, but I don’t know where to send the request ...
Hey this is such a good video, thanks so much for making this you're a legend. I am getting a 5p code with flashing cpu light. I pushed slightly on the bottom large plug it would cycle normal and the relay would click and I'd be good to go. I thought I had fixed it by tightening up the pins, it worked each time I tried it without pushing on the plug. Then suddenly it stopped cycling and none of the little green lights would even light up and now I'm not getting a flashing cpu light either. Just a SP code. I've traced all the wires and greased all the contacts. Had the motherboard out and took it to a computer repair place and it seemed to be OK. I'm lost 😕 this seems like such a simple system but I can't seem to get ahead.
I know I'm getting power to the green lights briefly when I turn the key on the all light up for a split second
Thanks I appreciate it. Code sp/"5p":Pattern switch Wire break/short circuit
I'm assuming that's the dial that changes between different joystick patterns?
@@kr3wjones45 should be, bad switch or wiring?
Thanks a lot been struggling to find any info on this thing. I'll let you know what it was when I fix it. Hope this might help someone else too
Hi! Can you help me? Joysticks don't work. Error L3 What does it mean?
L3: Differential transformer open/short circuit arm.
With this fault no joystick function will work. I would check and clean the connectors under the floor first.
@@AndyFromm Thanks a lot, but I don't know what the differential transformer means (where is it?)
@@ВикаЛагунова-х3е I did a lot more looking... the differential transformer is the sensor on the manual spool valves (under the floor) and tell the computer how far the spool valve is moving when the computer tells it to move.
Per the manual: Reference voltage value When the spool is neutral The full deviation from the voltage value when the spool is neutral is 1.725 to 2.725 V When the full deviation from the voltage value when the spool is neutral is 1.725 to 2.725 V 2.15 to 2,85 V
I would check one of the others voltage and compare. The one you are having trouble with is the arm.
@@AndyFromm Thank you very much, you've been very helpful. in my case, the harness rubbed against the corner of the frame that goes from the engine compartment to the control unit.
I'm glad I could help you track it down.