Hi Woody, well, that's perfect timing. My grandson and I were talking about having a go at a 3D printed 009 loco kit yesterday. I'll be showing him this when I see him next. That certainly seems relatively easy to do, so it should be alright for him to attempt, for his 009 layout. Speaking of which, he has just uploaded his first video documenting his 009 layout build. In this one, he's talking about buildings he's making. He's also nearly finished another stop-motion video, which will hopefully be uploaded this week. That's certainly a nice-looking loco you've built, and it's in the Dylington Custard Company's colour as well... Cheers James 🙂👍
Hello James, Many thanks for your comments. Good to hear your grandson is progressing with his layout and i will have to catch up with progress - sounds as though he is making quicker progress then my glacial progress with things! I did reply to your comment on the 3D print video which hopefully gives you some answers to the build of these locos. Strangly the loco was painted orange at first but for reasons unknown but probably operator error it looked like an Artex finish! Stripped and repainted yellow i do think it looks better and does have that custard look! Take care, Woody
Hi, Many thanks for your comment. Unfortunately the guy who prints these does not have a website. He only attends events around the East Midlands selling from his stall with the profits going to the Lins and Notts Air Ambulance.. There are other similar prints available from other suppliers and a search on the internet should bring up similar prints. Woody.
Looking very good. Started my own journey into 009 with printed bodies on kato chassis. Are there instructions to chip these chassis and how do you find they run afterwards compared with on DC? Thanks
Hi Andy, Many thanks for your comment and interesting to hear you are working with 3D bodies as well. The Kato chassis doesn't have any DCC instructions but it is fairly easy to chip the 109 chassis once you figure out how to get the top plate off. If you look at either end of the chassis there are two triangular looking prongs which are part of the two halves of the metal chassis and in effect hook over the plastic top plate. There is no easy way to do it that I have found but basically if you lever the plastic chassis to one side and can release one of the prongs the others will follow. Once the plate is off the motor is exposed along with two brass strip pick ups that fit either side of the two piece chassis and have wires straight to the motor. I unsoldered the pickups and threaded the wires from a DCC chip that I had cut the plug off through the plastic top plate and then soldered them to the pick ups. The wires from the motor went to the grey and orange chip wires. You need to be careful threading the wires through the plastic plate when you clip it back together but there is room. Putting a chip into the chassis does mean that you have to play around with CVs - 2, 3 5 and 6 and it probably still is not as slow running as on DC but I am now considering experimenting with a resistor despite my initial hesitancy. My first video on a 3D print and Kato chassis has a bit more on the running matters and is available at ruclips.net/video/ZjZFbeWFzMo/видео.htmlsi=5yFBx-iNwnjmm4OL and there are some more details on my blog at woodysmodelingdiary.blogspot.com/2023/11/sunday-chip.html which has some photos of the process. Hope that is of use. Woody
Hi Woody, well, that's perfect timing. My grandson and I were talking about having a go at a 3D printed 009 loco kit yesterday. I'll be showing him this when I see him next. That certainly seems relatively easy to do, so it should be alright for him to attempt, for his 009 layout. Speaking of which, he has just uploaded his first video documenting his 009 layout build. In this one, he's talking about buildings he's making. He's also nearly finished another stop-motion video, which will hopefully be uploaded this week. That's certainly a nice-looking loco you've built, and it's in the Dylington Custard Company's colour as well... Cheers James 🙂👍
Hello James, Many thanks for your comments. Good to hear your grandson is progressing with his layout and i will have to catch up with progress - sounds as though he is making quicker progress then my glacial progress with things! I did reply to your comment on the 3D print video which hopefully gives you some answers to the build of these locos. Strangly the loco was painted orange at first but for reasons unknown but probably operator error it looked like an Artex finish! Stripped and repainted yellow i do think it looks better and does have that custard look! Take care, Woody
Lovely. Do you have a link to who produces this kit?
Hi, Many thanks for your comment. Unfortunately the guy who prints these does not have a website. He only attends events around the East Midlands selling from his stall with the profits going to the Lins and Notts Air Ambulance.. There are other similar prints available from other suppliers and a search on the internet should bring up similar prints. Woody.
Looking very good. Started my own journey into 009 with printed bodies on kato chassis. Are there instructions to chip these chassis and how do you find they run afterwards compared with on DC? Thanks
Hi Andy, Many thanks for your comment and interesting to hear you are working with 3D bodies as well. The Kato chassis doesn't have any DCC instructions but it is fairly easy to chip the 109 chassis once you figure out how to get the top plate off. If you look at either end of the chassis there are two triangular looking prongs which are part of the two halves of the metal chassis and in effect hook over the plastic top plate. There is no easy way to do it that I have found but basically if you lever the plastic chassis to one side and can release one of the prongs the others will follow. Once the plate is off the motor is exposed along with two brass strip pick ups that fit either side of the two piece chassis and have wires straight to the motor. I unsoldered the pickups and threaded the wires from a DCC chip that I had cut the plug off through the plastic top plate and then soldered them to the pick ups. The wires from the motor went to the grey and orange chip wires. You need to be careful threading the wires through the plastic plate when you clip it back together but there is room. Putting a chip into the chassis does mean that you have to play around with CVs - 2, 3 5 and 6 and it probably still is not as slow running as on DC but I am now considering experimenting with a resistor despite my initial hesitancy. My first video on a 3D print and Kato chassis has a bit more on the running matters and is available at ruclips.net/video/ZjZFbeWFzMo/видео.htmlsi=5yFBx-iNwnjmm4OL and there are some more details on my blog at woodysmodelingdiary.blogspot.com/2023/11/sunday-chip.html which has some photos of the process.
Hope that is of use. Woody
@@woodysmodellingdiary Thanks for that, I’ll have a dig into it