Rust Kutter vs. Corroseal: Removing rust and undercoating my Ford E-350 Extended 7.3l van

Rust Kutter (gallon) - amzn.to/3OQY9vN
Rust-oleum Truck Bed Coating - amzn.to/44v0baR
Corroseal - amzn.to/3PcZ1w9
I used Corroseal for the rear axle and back but decided to go with Rust Kutter for the rest of the underside of the van. Here's how it worked out.
#rust #e350 #econoline #vanlifereality #powerstroke
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[@jorgedelagarza7611]

Thanks for the video how is it holding up?

[@PowerstrokeEconoline]

So far so good. We just got into the rain season here. I'll film a full update after the winter once it's had a chance to get dirty again.

[@212caboose]

Truck bed liner isn't the product to use for undercoating (neither is rubberized under coating, funnily enough). When you get a chip in the bed liner, water will get in, and rust from underneath the liner. Because of the rest of the bed liner, you simply won't see the rust until its really bad.
When you're able, remove the bed liner stuff, re-treat with rust kutter and/or Corroseal, paint with "chassis black" (eastwood makes a good version), then treat with something like woolwax. Rust is a constant battle, and the woolwax should be reapplied annually. There isn't a single permanent solution to rust.

[@PowerstrokeEconoline]

I'll be interested to see how it holds up. I wonder how Chassis Black would perform any differently? It seems to me from my scouring of RUclips that any product that seals in rust underneath just gives it a protected home to grow. That's why I think the Rust Kutter will end up doing better; after treatment the rust is gone.

[@7r5y9s1]

Why do u isolate some rubber parts? This converter is not friendly for rubber?

[@PowerstrokeEconoline]

I didn't isolate rubber parts. I did mask off the brakes and the u-joint. I also did not spray the exhaust system due to the high temps.

[@aelx69420]

I'm sorry to say but that coating will not last, at least not from my past experience. On vehicles with present surface rust even if converted you want to use a lanolin based coating like surface shield or woolwax

[@PowerstrokeEconoline]

You think the Corroseal will fail? Or the Rust Kutter? Or both? Honestly I don't think that either will hold up great over years and years but I do think the Rust Kutter did a much better job of getting rid of the underlying oxidation.

[@aelx69420]

Oh the rust kutter is definitely a good product that does work, I was referring to the rustoleum top coat

[@PowerstrokeEconoline]

Gotcha. Yeah I believe you. I'm learning as I go. If you watch my video on interior rust removal (ruclips.net/video/hbw1-06AVRE/видео.html) you can see why. The previous owner sprayed Rustoleum bed liner over rust with no surface prep and it did not last long, not even two years.

[@212caboose]

@@PowerstrokeEconoline The Corroseal/Rust Kutter isn't the issue. It's the nature of truck bed liner. Corroseal doesn't "get rid of" rust. It converts the rust into a inert coating and turns into a primer (basically). Rust Kutter probably does remove rust, but TBH, you actually want Corroseal (or a similar product) in this case, as the rust conversion process seals the metal. Also, Corroseal needs rust to be present to work correctly. Knock off the big scaly stuff, then brush on Corroseal over the rest of it.