DONE! First time attempting a dishwasher repair, and your video was the best help I could have had! I have a similar Maytag model, the QS 200, and the lights started dimming 2 weeks before we close on the sale of our place! Murphy's Law. Good sir, many thanks for getting me out of a real bind.
I couldn't buy just the touch pad and ribbon assembly - had to buy the whole control panel - thank you for the excellent tutorial on how to access everything!
Thanks!! I just finished repairing my dishwsher with your vid. The control panel had the same corrosion problem you mentioned. I used silicone has you suggested. Just saved myself a bunch of money. The tech wanted 700 bucks to fix my machine....
This is exactly the symptom I'm having with my Maytag Quiet Series dishwasher. Appreciate the well organized demonstration. Wonder if you tried to repair the corroded contacts on the display panel before ordering a new one - I'm going to tackle this tomorrow and see if I can salvage the current panel before spending money on a replacement.
This is great - I have exactly the same model, bought in 2005, and in ten years it got TEN new control panels, all under warranty, all with exactly the same problem, and finally they reimbursed me for the cost of the dishwasher (it was part of the extended warranty policy), and THEN I did a procedure like this to hopefully fix it for a long long time.
Great video! Thank you very much. Perhaps by now, many people have figured out that Maytag is not in the business of selling dishwashers but replacement dishwasher control panels (we are replacing our third one in about 4 years).
Followed norcal715 utube instructions. Ordered the new part online. I did not use silicone ( I bought spray and did not want to use it since it's a tube in the video) and I am thrilled to say my dishwasher is running. Thank you norcal very much. For $127.00 for the part, my dishwasher is working compared to buying a new one. Hopefully, the fix will last at least 3 years like the first faulty touchpad. I will not buy a Magtag again since they have knowingly outsourced the touchpad part.
Maytag is not what it used to be performance-wise but we are stuck with one that is only 15 months old. The pad is on on the front panel of stainless steel. Your video cannot hurt, as we detach screws to get inside ours to simulate what you did. This demystifying of it is so appreciated! A service call would happen anyway.
Thanks a lot - brilliant video and explanation. I had the same issue on my Maytag dishwasher (model mdb6702awb). I followed your steps but instead of using a sealant, I used an eraser to rub off any residue from the ribbon that goes from the front panel display to the motherboard circuit board. I disconnected the ribbon from the circuit board and "erased" it with a pencil eraser. When I put everything back together, the dishwasher started working again. It might have also been related to airing out the front panel display while I was working on the issue. I'm not sure how long this solution will last but hopefully buys me some time to research a replacement dishwasher. From numerous other posts, I've gathered that this particular model is highly prone to problems and expensive to repair. So far I've saved a couple hundred dollars in parts and service costs by doing the repair myself. Thanks again!
Thank you for saving me $148 for a new control panel. Mine is a Maytag model MDB6759, but it's exactly the same fix. 2 small additions to your procedure will help. 1. When pulling the touch panel, get down far enough and get to the bottom of the touch pad. I started peeling up the top layer with the print on it . 2.Use an eraser to clean the corrosion on the ribbon cable, right at the touch panel, before sealing with the silicone. Mine didn't work before this, but did after.
I repaired my MDBH985 using your video. thank you very much for taking the time to make it and share it with us. Your tips saved me a lot of time, especially: 1. the location of the screws for removing the control panel. 2. that the inner liner can be completely removed. Although I couldn't unplug the soap dispenser. 3. to weight down the door with something. 4. reassembling, making sure the inner liner was on top of the trim I added some silicone caulk to where the ribbon goes to the button strip. I bought the replacement control panel from Amazon for 129.99 as Whirlpool Part Number W10161144: PANEL-CNTL.
Thank you... My MDB965 stopped working. Start button did nothing. A couple of the other buttons would flash numbers 29 times then nothing. So...I took the panel off, wiggled the flat wire going thru the front to the display, turned the circuit breaker back on. Now it works. If it dies again I'll do the silicon treatment. Happy for the Holidays ;-)
Thank you so much. My dishwasher is a different brand but the touchpad is pretty much the same. I'm fortunate enough to only have the issue with the front panel, which has only the Start and Favorite Cycle buttons. The top works decent, some LEDs don't light up but we can press the cycle and the delay button, so we just wait another hour before the dishes get clean! Also, I only stumbled across this channel because I was trying to figure out how to fix my TV (which I did)! The chances... wow.
thanks for the taking the time to make the video. After reading the comments I guess I should feel pretty good about mine lasting 10 years now, before these issues. I guess ill just get a new one.
I had a repair man come out and diagnose my dishwasher he said it was the board, and quoted me $300 for the part + labor. I ordered it on Ebay for $99 and installed it with the help of your video and all is well. Thanks!
I have similar problems. I repaired the main ribbon cable by removing rust and coating it with liquid tape (waterproof). Dishwasher worked great..for about 3 weeks. No response again from the touch panel and I mean nothing. I will try looking at all the component as demonstrated in this video tomorrow. If I'm successful, maybe I can cancel the order for a new one I purchased. By the way, this dishwasher is new, but was stored in my garage for 6 years in the original carton, untouched, until my other one was finally ready to go. I'm very frustrated by this process, but if I can get this Maytag working that would be great.
Since my last comment the touch pads don't light at all and I can't get the dishwasher to do anything. Your video is mainly a future preventive conditioning one, but I need a troubleshooting video to find what stopped the touch pads from lighting
I too fixed my dishwasher with inspiration from this video - thank you! Mine is an MDBTT70AWB. First I took off the entire control panel housing per this video and dried it out by leaving it over a furnace heat vent. I used high temperature silicone RTV and sealed around the ribbon cable where it enters the control panel (the large plastic housing that has the buttons etc), and I also, after cleaning the ribbon cable contacts where it enters the circuit board, I smeared dielectric grease around the ribbon cable where it goes into the plastic connector, as well as around that plastic connector housing, to try to keep steam out of the connection. I also ended up sealing around the vent, since the black foam gasket that seals the vent in the door liner to the exit on the front of the control panel housing looked worn and I was concerned steam could also enter the control panel housing this way. Everything has been fine since (used to blink 9 and got worse and worse with this, sometimes finishing a load and sometimes not, and seeming to start blinking 9 after a run, hence presumed due to more and more steam getting into the control panel).
Just a note: a lot of silicone sealants have acetic acid or something very similar in them which DOES cause corrosion. I found out this the hard way and since then I only use hot glue for this kind of stuff. It should not be a problem if the silicone can breathe and the acetate(?) can evaporate. Check if the silicone has a pungent smell and don't use it for electronics in case it does.
Thank you for that very helpful maintenance video. I have the MDB8751BWB almost the same except no vent port. I had some flooding last year with about 4" of water from sewage pipe and the only problem I saw with my dishwasher was the outside control with the time having intermittent diode problems. When I pressed on the number display they would get a contact for a while but today as I went to start a load the display has nothing. The upper inside wash selection works fine. Do you think it is just those ribbon cables corroded? Thanks again, Rob
Thank you very much for this video. Even though my Maytag was different, the instruction was good and helped very much. Also, thanks for the info on using the Silicon sealer. I hope this helps.
So, if I do what you did here in this video and we don't have corrosion, I guess the next step would be to replace the electronic board? Or do you have any other suggestions of what we might try if it's not corrosion? I just want to be prepared when I open the thing up of what I should be looking for and what I might need to replace.
After looking at this video I decided to try working on it again. This time I found the main ribbon from the touch pad to the control box loose. The small box thing it inserts to was a bit loose, so I adjusted it, plugged in the cable securely, turned on the juice again and all the pads lit up! Great!I shut off the electricity, put it all together nice and secure, checked again and all was good. Until I loaded up the dishwasher and it did nothing! It has to be haunted.... Ugh!
So is the corrosion on the ribbon cable caused primarily from the moisture generated by the dishwasher itself, or can it be caused by cleaning solutions that creep in from the outside or both? I'm replacing the touchpad on my Maytag dishwasher, except the buttons on my model go across the front rather than the top edge as shown. I did peel apart my defective control panel and sure enough, the corrosion ate through some of the electrical traces on the ribbon cable where it turns a sharp bend and enters the front panel through the access slot. Diagnosing the problem was easy once I got a copy of the tech sheet. It told me the steps to take to put the machine into self-diagnosis mode and isolate the problem. The new front panel was about $95.
The damage is being caused by MOISTURE that is generated by the machine itself, most likely cause improper sealing around vent at top left hand side where it goes thru the door liner, AND the square part of the vent that makes contact with the plastic housing of the control panel /Keyboard/Touchpad. That or the dish-washing dispenser. One more place that MOISTURE gets generated, or can pass into the area the electronics reside in is at the very bottom of the inner door liner, there is a section there that is OPEN to the inside of the machine, which water intrudes into during normal operation.... and that area is NOT isolated, or "Channeled" so that moisture is kept away from the electronics of the unit! Poor design and unless modified the panel /control board WILL fail again and again. (On my MDB7609AWS2 MAYTAG Dishwasher which the touchpad is on the face of the door and has (4) slotted vents moisture is supposed to come out I plan on "sectioning" the vent assembly away from the electronics of the unit (Control panel, aka touchpad, and the Control board, aka "Computer), AND venting the electronics SEPARATELY. See below: (Pay attention WHIRLPOOL, which manufactures a board range of brands these days... Doing the above /below would cost maybe 0.50. cents in mass production. But hey the way it's designed now you sell TONS (Literally) of panels, control boards... New dishwashers by the truck loads... due to POOR DESIGN. Or are the designers "designing" stuff to PURPOSELY FAIL? Top managers and design teams being FIRED or scolded if they make a product too "good" (I'm serious, knew a engineer that went to work for Chevrolet designing STARTERS. He designed them with easily replaceable parts, Chevrolet said NO, you don't understand.. we want that starter to last thru the warranty and not much longer. ) Quick Question for John Q public: How many years do you think a appliance that costs $1,000 plus to buy should last? A year?, that's how long the warranty is on most things are these days. A year warranty is a JOKE. OK, Back to fixing Whirlpools BAD DESIGN. ( I've read this design going back to 2002, and it hasn't been fixed yet.) First "PROPER DESIGN" when designing items in which during operation generate MOISTURE which will KILL the ELECTRONICS... is that you keep the electronics as far as you can from anything that might be negatively affected and you spray a layer of waterproofing on components and use waterproof cabling and you put in additional barriers (and venting)... You don't put components into a HOSTILE ENVIRONMENT and rely on (1) seal that is around parts in which MOISTURE passes thru each time the machine is run... you have a primary and secondary seal... (You idiots) SO, HOW TO FIX WHIRLPOOLS BACK DESIGN? The problem is MOISTURE so.. Here is my plan: 1: Anywhere there is a path to control panel. it gets sealed with ELECTRONICS , not "Household" Silicone sealant. (There is a difference) 2 : Wrap cabling with electrical tape, then apply a coating over that of say the stuff you coat handles of tools. 3: On where cabling might plug in, apply Dielectric paste. 4: Form "Barriers using some closed cell foam tubing that I have to keep any moisture away from the electronics, and then vent that area SEPARATELY. * May use a combination of the tubing I have and some "Spray Foam", and or use one or the other... Trying to get my unit back up and running. *Oh, if using spray foam you might want to hunt down the type that is NOT the expanding type as that might distort the outer panel. 5: I am going to re-seal areas around vent, and soap dispenser.. then form a secondary barrier. 6: Fabricate barriers so water that resides in tray at lower part of door does NOT cannot work it's way into area control board, and area cabling for control panel passes thru. 7: VENTING of area electronics are in: (VENTING NEEDED due to HEAT Control board might generate, and allows for pathway for any moisture that gets in to escape) Venting can be done in one of two ways: First way voids any warranty you may have on the control panel aka Touchpad/Keyboard. 1: My first thought was to "mimic" the vents on the left hand side with a set on the right with a dermal tool. (I.E. Cut thru the plastic.) Problem with that is if I do need to warranty the panel... they may give me grief about that. Second way: Retains warranty... but is not my first choice as it would not "ventilate" the area the electronics resides in as well is this: 2: The handle is a separate piece (You don't get the handle when you order a new control panel.) Drum roll please... DRILL HOLES THRU THE HANDLE SECTION.... (That is a separate piece.. the part that does NOT come with the control board... when you get a new control panel you have to remove it and stick in new control panel board.) **************************** Oh, one last thing: One cause of moisture is caused by the studding on the control panel cracking /breaking. (If the studs break/crack the panel will NOT seal tightly against the rectangular vent section) If your panel is out of warranty... you might want to reinforce /rebuild /add webbing between those studs so panel will seal properly. (I used a combination of J-W Weld slow, not fast dry epoxy, sections of broken telescoping antenna sections, and stainless steel wire to reinforce / rebuild broken studs.)
What kind of Silicone did you use again? I'd like to try the same thing. Just got the new control panel in the mail today. I can't quite make out what you are using...it is the Door and Window silicone? The tube doesn't say RTV on it so I wanted to make sure. I'm handy enough to make the repair, just want to use the right caulk. Thanks!
I contacted that law firm, and am sending them my faulty control panel for their evidence collection. My machine was barely 3 years old. That conglomerate that starts with a "W" needs to be held accountable for all the lemons they have knowingly sold.
Question: I have the same problem and thought it was only the latch. (MDB7750AWB) the United had power and the Start Light was green. However, it wouldn’t run since the door latch doesn’t completely shut. I turned the main power off and replaced the latch. But now there is no power nor green light on the Touch panel. Main power is on. Wondering if you have any ideas or suggestions. Much appreciated.
Great tutorial. I have what appears to be the same problem. Is it possible to just replace the ribbon cables? If so, does anyone know where to get them.
Thank you for doing this. My issue was only the smaller panel's digital numbers going out and then the start button not working. As everyone has noticed, I had to order the whole thing: "MAYTAG DISHWASHER CONTROL PANEL 6-919825". I got it for $75 new off eBay. Now, I used the only silicone I had "DAP caulk sealant" and then just now noticed another person's comment on that causing corrosion. I hope that person is wrong because it is too late now. Well all is working well. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this and help other people all over the world.
Actually, I spoke too soon, but I'm just getting back now to writing about it. Replacing the touch panel(s) did not resolve the issue. I'll have to do some more troubleshooting and likely replace the control board.
Are you up and running now? For a long term fix see my post about rectifying the design flaws or pretty much all dishwashers with control panels /embedded electronics Whirlpool has made (Under various brands) since 2002.
James Shipley Pretty sure post was on this page. Post talked about ways to isolate control board (computer) and control panel (keyboard, rouchpad) from MOSITURE via adding additional sealing around the vent which is steam /moisture is supposed to exit from... And a thought on how to add venting to keep any moisture away from computer and touch pad.
Its is a USA brand and one of the top brands here. I am not sure if it is sold in any other countries. From what I have heard it is built by the Whirlpool Company but that's just hearsay. Thanks for watching!
It cost me $225 to replace the touch pad when it failed the first time, 2 years after installation. Now another 2 years and it has failed again. I thank you, norcal, for this helpful video, but I agree with the others who have said that this thing belongs in the dumpster. I don't to spend the $$$ to buy another touch pad for a poorly designed product that will probably just fail again somewhere down the road. Two years seems to be the lifespan of these parts (is yours still working? it's been almost 2 years). I will never buy another Maytag ANYTHING...they have NO customer service whatsoever. Not the dealer (who said to run a hairdryer over the panel to see if that helps) and not Maytag (who does not respond to customer service inquiries). If you try to give the product a bad review on their website, they will not post it, even though I was very careful to "be nice" about my problem. Now the question is: what brand is better?
Kathleen Peters Agreed. Our Maytag Jetclean failed at the 13 month mark. The customer service is absent. I'll never again buy anything Whirlpool makes. It's a joke.
I had my Maytag control panel fail just after 18 months. Maytag is well aware of the problem, yet refuses to offer any compensation on a poor design for which they are responsible. I spoke to a Maytag supervisor and got no satisfaction. This is my third Maytag appliance and the last.
Hi i have no experience with any of this but can those strips be permanently damaged? Mine completely doesnt work and before i take it apart i wanna know if i might need new parts
Q: Did you get your _______mfg______Model number Dishwasher working again? Re: can strips be permanently damaged? Strips, as the parts that comprise the control panel? (AKA TouchPad/Keyboard.) Yes those strips can be permanently damaged. Lots of people are reporting MOISTURE causing corrosion on the ribbon cable and people have seen water in the area of the buttons.
I removed my control panel and realized the ribbon between the handle and facing was eroded. I cleaned it with vinegar and a brush, covered the erosion with black electrical tape, and put it back together carefully. 2 loads in, it's working well. My dishwasher has a full soft touch panel (maytag) and had the error that flashes the "drain" LED. Fingers crossed.
Gabriel Hearn that's correct. Still working well. I just added the tape to basically protect the ribbon from rubbing bare again. Seems to have been poorly designed.
It is just regular silicone RTV I think I got it from Lowes of Home Depot GE brand I think. RTV just means Room Temperature Vulcanization it will cure at room temperature.
It kept the moisture out of the keypad. I had a replacement keypad I used. the keypad didn't fail but a few years later the lower plastic for the spray arm became warped and I had to replace the enter dishwasher because the part needed was not available.
Unfortunately, he didn't describe how he cleaned the corrosion. I have corrosion on the front Start panel ribbon cable but not on the top panel. The Start Panel ribbon cable is removable and it has a part number (919325 REV B PARLEX MA EMAY02 11/07/11/01). The Top Panel ribbon cable part number is (919322 REV D PARLEX MA BMAY046 12/06/11/01) I would rather pay for this part than replace the entire panel.
That was the second time you replaced it and the part was $230.00? I am a repair tech and you can add on at least $100.00 for labor. Sometimes you change one electronic control on it and it ends up being the other expensive one. I usually recommend new.
25,000 people don't have any warranty and have a new dishwasher that has crapped out. How many people just bought a new one? Appliances sure have gone down hill. Our first dishwasher lasted 20 years.
I want any consumer to be aware that Maytag dishwashers are the worst investment that you can possibly make. For the model MOBH979AWS3- the steel touch pad dishwasher that we have owned for 3 years we have had to repair the electronic panel at a cost of $250/visit twice. When contacting the company there only response is that the product is out of warranty and there is nothing else that they can do. It is not worth investing in Maytag. Buyer "Beware"!!!!!!!!!
We have an MDB8989 that has touchpad issues because water can intrude into the damn panel. They didn't make the assembly waterproof wtf Only brand new appliance we ever bought and its been a nightmare
Really? My comment about my filed class action lawsuit against Whirlpool was marked as spam?? Apparently people like to continue to deal with these faulty panels and shame on me for trying to help!
DONE! First time attempting a dishwasher repair, and your video was the best help I could have had! I have a similar Maytag model, the QS 200, and the lights started dimming 2 weeks before we close on the sale of our place! Murphy's Law. Good sir, many thanks for getting me out of a real bind.
clarkn2199
I couldn't buy just the touch pad and ribbon assembly - had to buy the whole control panel - thank you for the excellent tutorial on how to access everything!
Thanks!! I just finished repairing my dishwsher with your vid. The control panel had the same corrosion problem you mentioned. I used silicone has you suggested. Just saved myself a bunch of money. The tech wanted 700 bucks to fix my machine....
This is exactly the symptom I'm having with my Maytag Quiet Series dishwasher. Appreciate the well organized demonstration. Wonder if you tried to repair the corroded contacts on the display panel before ordering a new one - I'm going to tackle this tomorrow and see if I can salvage the current panel before spending money on a replacement.
This is great - I have exactly the same model, bought in 2005, and in ten years it got TEN new control panels, all under warranty, all with exactly the same problem, and finally they reimbursed me for the cost of the dishwasher (it was part of the extended warranty policy), and THEN I did a procedure like this to hopefully fix it for a long long time.
Great video! Thank you very much. Perhaps by now, many people have figured out that Maytag is not in the business of selling dishwashers but replacement dishwasher control panels (we are replacing our third one in about 4 years).
Followed norcal715 utube instructions. Ordered the new part online. I did not use silicone ( I bought spray and did not want to use it since it's a tube in the video) and I am thrilled to say my dishwasher is running. Thank you norcal very much. For $127.00 for the part, my dishwasher is working compared to buying a new one. Hopefully, the fix will last at least 3 years like the first faulty touchpad. I will not buy a Magtag again since they have knowingly outsourced the touchpad part.
Maytag is not what it used to be performance-wise but we are stuck with one that is only 15 months old. The pad is on on the front panel of stainless steel. Your video cannot hurt, as we detach screws to get inside ours to simulate what you did. This demystifying of it is so appreciated! A service call would happen anyway.
Thanks a lot - brilliant video and explanation. I had the same issue on my Maytag dishwasher (model mdb6702awb). I followed your steps but instead of using a sealant, I used an eraser to rub off any residue from the ribbon that goes from the front panel display to the motherboard circuit board. I disconnected the ribbon from the circuit board and "erased" it with a pencil eraser. When I put everything back together, the dishwasher started working again. It might have also been related to airing out the front panel display while I was working on the issue. I'm not sure how long this solution will last but hopefully buys me some time to research a replacement dishwasher. From numerous other posts, I've gathered that this particular model is highly prone to problems and expensive to repair. So far I've saved a couple hundred dollars in parts and service costs by doing the repair myself. Thanks again!
Thank you for saving me $148 for a new control panel. Mine is a Maytag model MDB6759, but it's exactly the same fix. 2 small additions to your procedure will help.
1. When pulling the touch panel, get down far enough and get to the bottom of the touch pad. I started peeling up the top layer with the print on it
.
2.Use an eraser to clean the corrosion on the ribbon cable, right at the touch panel, before sealing with the silicone. Mine didn't work before this, but did after.
Just wanted to tell you that I really appreciated this video. Worked like a charm and saved me the cost of a repair man. Great video. Thank a bunch!!
I repaired my MDBH985 using your video. thank you very much for taking the time to make it and share it with us. Your tips saved me a lot of time, especially:
1. the location of the screws for removing the control panel.
2. that the inner liner can be completely removed. Although I couldn't unplug the soap dispenser.
3. to weight down the door with something.
4. reassembling, making sure the inner liner was on top of the trim
I added some silicone caulk to where the ribbon goes to the button strip.
I bought the replacement control panel from Amazon for 129.99 as Whirlpool Part Number W10161144: PANEL-CNTL.
Thank you... My MDB965 stopped working. Start button did nothing. A couple of the other buttons would flash numbers 29 times then nothing. So...I took the panel off, wiggled the flat wire going thru the front to the display, turned the circuit breaker back on. Now it works. If it dies again I'll do the silicon treatment. Happy for the Holidays ;-)
Thank you so much. My dishwasher is a different brand but the touchpad is pretty much the same. I'm fortunate enough to only have the issue with the front panel, which has only the Start and Favorite Cycle buttons. The top works decent, some LEDs don't light up but we can press the cycle and the delay button, so we just wait another hour before the dishes get clean!
Also, I only stumbled across this channel because I was trying to figure out how to fix my TV (which I did)! The chances... wow.
thanks for the taking the time to make the video. After reading the comments I guess I should feel pretty good about mine lasting 10 years now, before these issues. I guess ill just get a new one.
I had a repair man come out and diagnose my dishwasher he said it was the board, and quoted me $300 for the part + labor. I ordered it on Ebay for $99 and installed it with the help of your video and all is well. Thanks!
I have similar problems. I repaired the main ribbon cable by removing rust and coating it with liquid tape (waterproof). Dishwasher worked great..for about 3 weeks. No response again from the touch panel and I mean nothing. I will try looking at all the component as demonstrated in this video tomorrow. If I'm successful, maybe I can cancel the order for a new one I purchased. By the way, this dishwasher is new, but was stored in my garage for 6 years in the original carton, untouched, until my other one was finally ready to go. I'm very frustrated by this process, but if I can get this Maytag working that would be great.
Since my last comment the touch pads don't light at all and I can't get the dishwasher to do anything. Your video is mainly a future preventive conditioning one, but I need a troubleshooting video to find what stopped the touch pads from lighting
I too fixed my dishwasher with inspiration from this video - thank you! Mine is an MDBTT70AWB. First I took off the entire control panel housing per this video and dried it out by leaving it over a furnace heat vent. I used high temperature silicone RTV and sealed around the ribbon cable where it enters the control panel (the large plastic housing that has the buttons etc), and I also, after cleaning the ribbon cable contacts where it enters the circuit board, I smeared dielectric grease around the ribbon cable where it goes into the plastic connector, as well as around that plastic connector housing, to try to keep steam out of the connection. I also ended up sealing around the vent, since the black foam gasket that seals the vent in the door liner to the exit on the front of the control panel housing looked worn and I was concerned steam could also enter the control panel housing this way. Everything has been fine since (used to blink 9 and got worse and worse with this, sometimes finishing a load and sometimes not, and seeming to start blinking 9 after a run, hence presumed due to more and more steam getting into the control panel).
Great video, I changed mine in 8 minutes. Love the Ramones in the background! Thank you:)
It appears that you are using the old parts and just cleaning them and adding silicone in the video. Is this true? Or did you buy new parts?
Awesome video... worked for me after not using my dishwasher for over 5 months.
The Ramones are great for doing repair work!
Just a note: a lot of silicone sealants have acetic acid or something very similar in them which DOES cause corrosion. I found out this the hard way and since then I only use hot glue for this kind of stuff. It should not be a problem if the silicone can breathe and the acetate(?) can evaporate. Check if the silicone has a pungent smell and don't use it for electronics in case it does.
Thank you for that very helpful maintenance video. I have the MDB8751BWB almost the same except no vent port. I had some flooding last year with about 4" of water from sewage pipe and the only problem I saw with my dishwasher was the outside control with the time having intermittent diode problems. When I pressed on the number display they would get a contact for a while but today as I went to start a load the display has nothing. The upper inside wash selection works fine. Do you think it is just those ribbon cables corroded?
Thanks again,
Rob
Thank you very much for this video. Even though my Maytag was different, the instruction was good and helped very much. Also, thanks for the info on using the Silicon sealer. I hope this helps.
So, if I do what you did here in this video and we don't have corrosion, I guess the next step would be to replace the electronic board? Or do you have any other suggestions of what we might try if it's not corrosion? I just want to be prepared when I open the thing up of what I should be looking for and what I might need to replace.
After looking at this video I decided to try working on it again. This time I found the main ribbon from the touch pad to the control box loose. The small box thing it inserts to was a bit loose, so I adjusted it, plugged in the cable securely, turned on the juice again and all the pads lit up! Great!I shut off the electricity, put it all together nice and secure, checked again and all was good. Until I loaded up the dishwasher and it did nothing! It has to be haunted.... Ugh!
A great help and now our dishwasher works again. Thanks.
What did you use to clean the corrosion off the ribbons? Thanks for the video!
So is the corrosion on the ribbon cable caused primarily from the moisture generated by the dishwasher itself, or can it be caused by cleaning solutions that creep in from the outside or both?
I'm replacing the touchpad on my Maytag dishwasher, except the buttons on my model go across the front rather than the top edge as shown. I did peel apart my defective control panel and sure enough, the corrosion ate through some of the electrical traces on the ribbon cable where it turns a sharp bend and enters the front panel through the access slot. Diagnosing the problem was easy once I got a copy of the tech sheet. It told me the steps to take to put the machine into self-diagnosis mode and isolate the problem. The new front panel was about $95.
The damage is being caused by MOISTURE that is generated by the machine itself, most likely cause improper sealing around vent at top left hand side where it goes thru the door liner, AND the square part of the vent that makes contact with the plastic housing of the control panel /Keyboard/Touchpad.
That or the dish-washing dispenser.
One more place that MOISTURE gets generated, or can pass into the area the electronics reside in is at the very bottom of the inner door liner, there is a section there that is OPEN to the inside of the machine, which water intrudes into during normal operation.... and that area is NOT isolated, or "Channeled" so that moisture is kept away from the electronics of the unit!
Poor design and unless modified the panel /control board WILL fail again and again.
(On my MDB7609AWS2 MAYTAG Dishwasher which the touchpad is on the face of the door and has (4) slotted vents moisture is supposed to come out I plan on "sectioning" the vent assembly away from the electronics of the unit (Control panel, aka touchpad, and the Control board, aka "Computer), AND venting the electronics SEPARATELY.
See below:
(Pay attention WHIRLPOOL, which manufactures a board range of brands these days... Doing the above /below would cost maybe 0.50. cents in mass production.
But hey the way it's designed now you sell TONS (Literally) of panels, control boards... New dishwashers by the truck loads... due to POOR DESIGN.
Or are the designers "designing" stuff to PURPOSELY FAIL?
Top managers and design teams being FIRED or scolded if they make a product too "good"
(I'm serious, knew a engineer that went to work for Chevrolet designing STARTERS. He designed them with easily replaceable parts, Chevrolet said NO, you don't understand.. we want that starter to last thru the warranty and not much longer. )
Quick Question for John Q public:
How many years do you think a appliance that costs $1,000 plus to buy should last?
A year?, that's how long the warranty is on most things are these days.
A year warranty is a JOKE.
OK, Back to fixing Whirlpools BAD DESIGN. ( I've read this design going back to 2002, and it hasn't been fixed yet.)
First "PROPER DESIGN" when designing items in which during operation generate MOISTURE which will KILL the ELECTRONICS... is that you keep the electronics as far as you can from anything that might be negatively affected and you spray a layer of waterproofing on components and use waterproof cabling and you put in additional barriers (and venting)...
You don't put components into a HOSTILE ENVIRONMENT and rely on (1) seal that is around parts in which MOISTURE passes thru each time the machine is run... you have a primary and secondary seal... (You idiots)
SO,
HOW TO FIX WHIRLPOOLS BACK DESIGN?
The problem is MOISTURE so..
Here is my plan:
1: Anywhere there is a path to control panel. it gets sealed with ELECTRONICS , not "Household" Silicone sealant. (There is a difference)
2 : Wrap cabling with electrical tape, then apply a coating over that of say the stuff you coat handles of tools.
3: On where cabling might plug in, apply Dielectric paste.
4: Form "Barriers using some closed cell foam tubing that I have to keep any moisture away from the electronics, and then vent that area SEPARATELY.
* May use a combination of the tubing I have and some "Spray Foam", and or use one or the other... Trying to get my unit back up and running.
*Oh, if using spray foam you might want to hunt down the type that is NOT the expanding type as that might distort the outer panel.
5: I am going to re-seal areas around vent, and soap dispenser.. then form a secondary barrier.
6: Fabricate barriers so water that resides in tray at lower part of door does NOT cannot work it's way into area control board, and area cabling for control panel passes thru.
7: VENTING of area electronics are in:
(VENTING NEEDED due to HEAT Control board might generate, and allows for pathway for any moisture that gets in to escape)
Venting can be done in one of two ways:
First way voids any warranty you may have on the control panel aka Touchpad/Keyboard.
1: My first thought was to "mimic" the vents on the left hand side with a set on the right with a dermal tool. (I.E. Cut thru the plastic.)
Problem with that is if I do need to warranty the panel... they may give me grief about that.
Second way: Retains warranty... but is not my first choice as it would not "ventilate" the area the electronics resides in as well is this:
2: The handle is a separate piece (You don't get the handle when you order a new control panel.)
Drum roll please... DRILL HOLES THRU THE HANDLE SECTION....
(That is a separate piece.. the part that does NOT come with the control board... when you get a new control panel you have to remove it and stick in new control panel board.)
****************************
Oh, one last thing:
One cause of moisture is caused by the studding on the control panel cracking /breaking.
(If the studs break/crack the panel will NOT seal tightly against the rectangular vent section)
If your panel is out of warranty... you might want to reinforce /rebuild /add webbing between those studs so panel will seal properly.
(I used a combination of J-W Weld slow, not fast dry epoxy, sections of broken telescoping antenna sections, and stainless steel wire to reinforce / rebuild broken studs.)
What kind of Silicone did you use again? I'd like to try the same thing. Just got the new control panel in the mail today. I can't quite make out what you are using...it is the Door and Window silicone? The tube doesn't say RTV on it so I wanted to make sure. I'm handy enough to make the repair, just want to use the right caulk. Thanks!
I contacted that law firm, and am sending them my faulty control panel for their evidence collection. My machine was barely 3 years old. That conglomerate that starts with a "W" needs to be held accountable for all the lemons they have knowingly sold.
Thanks, this silicone had almost no smell at all but i do know about that. I should have mentioned it. Thanks again.
Thank you so much! My dishwasher is working great now!
Excellent video. Thank you. I think I will try this.
Question: I have the same problem and thought it was only the latch. (MDB7750AWB) the United had power and the Start Light was green. However, it wouldn’t run since the door latch doesn’t completely shut. I turned the main power off and replaced the latch. But now there is no power nor green light on the Touch panel. Main power is on. Wondering if you have any ideas or suggestions. Much appreciated.
Great tutorial. I have what appears to be the same problem. Is it possible to just replace the ribbon cables? If so, does anyone know where to get them.
When reconnecting the vent and the dispenser does it matter which wires connect to the left and right prongs or it doesnt matter?
Just the touch pad assembly and it was the 2nd time which is why I decided to silicone the new one. The 1st one was 86.00 the 2nd one was 230.00
Nice video. Is this brand sold out of the USA? Is this an OEM, re-badged model?
Very , very clear detailed instruction
Thank you for doing this. My issue was only the smaller panel's digital numbers going out and then the start button not working. As everyone has noticed, I had to order the whole thing: "MAYTAG DISHWASHER CONTROL PANEL 6-919825". I got it for $75 new off eBay. Now, I used the only silicone I had "DAP caulk sealant" and then just now noticed another person's comment on that causing corrosion. I hope that person is wrong because it is too late now. Well all is working well. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this and help other people all over the world.
Actually, I spoke too soon, but I'm just getting back now to writing about it. Replacing the touch panel(s) did not resolve the issue. I'll have to do some more troubleshooting and likely replace the control board.
Are you up and running now?
For a long term fix see my post about rectifying the design flaws or pretty much all dishwashers with control panels /embedded electronics Whirlpool has made (Under various brands) since 2002.
No, I had to purchase a new dishwasher. You refer to a post, what post?
James Shipley Pretty sure post was on this page. Post talked about ways to isolate control board (computer) and control panel (keyboard, rouchpad) from MOSITURE via adding additional sealing around the vent which is steam /moisture is supposed to exit from...
And a thought on how to add venting to keep any moisture away from computer and touch pad.
Where do you get the touch pads. They only sell the entire whole plastic assembly?
I wish they just went back to the old mechanical buttons and switches instead. Never had any issues with that part of the old dishwasher we had.
Its is a USA brand and one of the top brands here. I am not sure if it is sold in any other countries. From what I have heard it is built by the Whirlpool Company but that's just hearsay. Thanks for watching!
Where do you get the parts? I can only find the whole control unit, not just the sticky assemblies with the ribbons attached.
This was amazing! You're a god send. Thank you for doing this.
It cost me $225 to replace the touch pad when it failed the first time, 2 years after installation. Now another 2 years and it has failed again. I thank you, norcal, for this helpful video, but I agree with the others who have said that this thing belongs in the dumpster. I don't to spend the $$$ to buy another touch pad for a poorly designed product that will probably just fail again somewhere down the road. Two years seems to be the lifespan of these parts (is yours still working? it's been almost 2 years). I will never buy another Maytag ANYTHING...they have NO customer service whatsoever. Not the dealer (who said to run a hairdryer over the panel to see if that helps) and not Maytag (who does not respond to customer service inquiries). If you try to give the product a bad review on their website, they will not post it, even though I was very careful to "be nice" about my problem. Now the question is: what brand is better?
I've had good luck with Samsung and LG
neckarsulme Thanks! Just bought a Samsung, in spite of some bad reviews. It's only been installed about 2 weeks, but so far I am very happy with it.
Kathleen Peters Go to Consumer Reports. They list all the best models. GE is supposed to be among the best. NO MAYTAG ever again.
Kathleen Peters Agreed. Our Maytag Jetclean failed at the 13 month mark. The customer service is absent. I'll never again buy anything Whirlpool makes. It's a joke.
The wiring going to the touch pad was the problem as whirlpool ,maytag etc has upgraded the the assembly but never admitted they were at fault.
Did you actually replace the control panel with a new one?
I had my Maytag control panel fail just after 18 months. Maytag is well aware of the problem, yet refuses to offer any compensation on a poor design for which they are responsible. I spoke to a Maytag supervisor and got no satisfaction. This is my third Maytag appliance and the last.
Hi i have no experience with any of this but can those strips be permanently damaged? Mine completely doesnt work and before i take it apart i wanna know if i might need new parts
Q: Did you get your _______mfg______Model number Dishwasher working again?
Re: can strips be permanently damaged?
Strips, as the parts that comprise the control panel? (AKA TouchPad/Keyboard.)
Yes those strips can be permanently damaged. Lots of people are reporting MOISTURE causing corrosion on the ribbon cable and people have seen water in the area of the buttons.
Yes, where did you get your parts?
I removed my control panel and realized the ribbon between the handle and facing was eroded. I cleaned it with vinegar and a brush, covered the erosion with black electrical tape, and put it back together carefully. 2 loads in, it's working well. My dishwasher has a full soft touch panel (maytag) and had the error that flashes the "drain" LED. Fingers crossed.
Michael Mosley so you didn’t add any thing for the electrical connection just used electrical tape?
Gabriel Hearn that's correct. Still working well. I just added the tape to basically protect the ribbon from rubbing bare again. Seems to have been poorly designed.
I was done at the mention of "torque screws". Time to consult Angie's List.
torx screws
It is just regular silicone RTV I think I got it from Lowes of Home Depot GE brand I think. RTV just means Room Temperature Vulcanization it will cure at room temperature.
Ribbon came out of the control panel, how do I put that back in? I slid it in but not it does not light up. Any help is appreciated
How did the silicone repair a faulty or corroded circuit board?
It kept the moisture out of the keypad. I had a replacement keypad I used. the keypad didn't fail but a few years later the lower plastic for the spray arm became warped and I had to replace the enter dishwasher because the part needed was not available.
Unfortunately, he didn't describe how he cleaned the corrosion. I have corrosion on the front Start panel ribbon cable but not on the top panel. The Start Panel ribbon cable is removable and it has a part number (919325 REV B PARLEX MA EMAY02 11/07/11/01). The Top Panel ribbon cable part number is (919322 REV D PARLEX MA BMAY046 12/06/11/01) I would rather pay for this part than replace the entire panel.
Nice video!
Love the corvette shirt
How much would a repair like this usually cost?
very helpful, thanks
That was the second time you replaced it and the part was $230.00? I am a repair tech and you can add on at least $100.00 for labor. Sometimes you change one electronic control on it and it ends up being the other expensive one. I usually recommend new.
2:42 those plugs don’t wanna let go! On the one I’m working on
25,000 people don't have any warranty and have a new dishwasher that has crapped out. How many people just bought a new one? Appliances sure have gone down hill. Our first dishwasher lasted 20 years.
Mine went out ONE month out of warranty!!! I bought it Jan 2013, dead Feb 2014. Yay CHINA!
I want any consumer to be aware that Maytag dishwashers are the worst investment that you can possibly make. For the model MOBH979AWS3- the steel touch pad dishwasher that we have owned for 3 years we have had to repair the electronic panel at a cost of $250/visit twice. When contacting the company there only response is that the product is out of warranty and there is nothing else that they can do. It is not worth investing in Maytag. Buyer "Beware"!!!!!!!!!
norcal715 is this fix still working?
I'd like a update as well, see my post if you'd like some ideas on a permanent / more encompassing fix.
We have an MDB8989 that has touchpad issues because water can intrude into the damn panel. They didn't make the assembly waterproof wtf
Only brand new appliance we ever bought and its been a nightmare
Thanks!
Could be, I was listening to JACK FM 93.7 They play what they want!
thank you
How do u get vent plug out
Got some nice music for this video
Really? My comment about my filed class action lawsuit against Whirlpool was marked as spam?? Apparently people like to continue to deal with these faulty panels and shame on me for trying to help!
nice vid
Thanks
I have a similar issue but my ribbons are completely eroded. Anyone know where i can purchase new ribbons?
Sorry no. you probably would have to purchase a complete new front panel. Sorry.
you showed everything but removing the corrosion from the ribbon connection
I replaced the complete keypad assembly.
Maytag is trash. Will never buy another one. Cheaply made garbage.
my dishwasher door never stays down
On most units you can adjust the tension
Good video. But I'm gonna just throw this piece of shit In the dumpster.