Husqvarna 445 chainsaw sprocket/clutch drum replacement

This technique involves basic tools that most people have on hand. It’s the same procedure on a lot of Husqvarna chainsaws, including this Husqvarna 445. This is how you change the sprocket or clutch. Some people refer to the sprocket as a clutch drum.

[@allspice_and_company]

This is the only video that warns about making sure the sprocket engages the oiler gear. Good job. thanks.

[@frankschoeneman2595]

Great Job, Just the right speed and explanation so normal people can understand. Thank You

[@thelousyfloridatravelers6390]

Thank you sir for watching and the positive feedback

[@chrismoodycrna1101]

Thank you fixed 445 in 10 minutes

[@rickyd7758]

Thank you sir never knew that for 45 yrs

[@joemeyers4912]

Great Husqvarna sprocket replacement video. Not to much info! Just right. Thanks very much.

[@jordand7047]

Thanks bud!
This is exactly what I was looking for

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

Rein's Notes: ;-)
0:43 and 1:53 Lester gets fancy with graphics! We love it!
2:30 Slow motion!!! Cool, dude! Great to really get to see something that usually happens so fast we miss it.
Wow - that sprocket was the worst I've ever seen! Talk about letting something go too long!
I'm working on a Stihl MS180C given to me by an arborist buddy who got it from another friend. The clutch drum/sprocket bearing was blown out with only about half the bearings still inside and no sign of the cage anywhere. I've replaced the bearing and the saw is running fine, but there are other things associated with that like weak clutch springs (replacements on the way) and some melted plastics underneath. I suspect the saw was run with the chain brake on. No other signs of actual damage - P/C/rings in perfect condition and 175PSI compression. The cylinder is somewhat darker than original color but otherwise it's fine. Touched up the chain and that saw cuts like a beast! As soon as the springs are replaced I'll be able to finish tuning - at least to confirm spec idle and clutch engagement speeds. Lester, can you think of any other reason for the damage I found?
I appreciate seeing you set the brake to lock the clutch onto the shaft. I have suspected that would do the job but you're the first person I've seen actually do it. I always test the brake after I get the saw started to confirm function anyhow.
I got a new tool! I've had problems with my Tiny Tach from the beginning but haven't been able to afford something better. A couple days ago I discovered a smartphone app called Engine RPM, loaded it onto my phone, read some of the instructions and tested it out. It's tricky to understand at first, but once you get how it works it's great! I checked the speed of my fridge compressor, oil burner, bench grinder and even the speed of a saw being tested on a RUclips channel! It works by sound instead of electrical impulse, so as long as my phone can pick up the sound it'll function. Really great tool that is going to change my game completely because now I don't need a hand to hold a tach up near the spark plug - I can set this down nearby and have a hand for the throttle and another for adjustments. apps.apple.com/us/app/engine-rpm/id340401811

[@thelousyfloridatravelers6390]

Thank you sir

[@bolo0708]

Thank you for your video sir 😉 Gonna give it a go!

[@allentyler2184]

Good video, i broke my clutch because i tried to tighten it by hand, do what he says in the video!

[@jtownsend220]

Was he running the wrong pitch chain?

[@botanica4208]

Cheers sir!