1974 MGB Update
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- A look at the work I have done so far this year from the gas tank to the new 32/36 Weber. I know I could have bench bled the MC, but I figured I would be able to get around it and it looks like I was able to by loosing the lines form the junction so the brake fluid gravity feed through the MC and eliminated the air at least the makes sense to me. I have all brakes and a pedal, but I will probably bleed them again just to be sure, nothing wrong with double checking.
you are so right on electrical issue problems on all MG; even the Porsche 914 is even worse bc the rear open grill allows the rain and moisture to splash to the fuse box compartment. that's gotta be the engineering nightmare and the consumer gets the worse of it. i changed my MGB GT to electronic ignition converted from points, very easy to do. you won't have to deal with the point and condenser. make sure you get the right coil without the resistor. contact MOSS MG import or Northwest import-steve. Moss does send their parts catalog quarterly. it has a lot of good information.
Yeah I have heard horror stories on the 914. I did upgrade my ignition from the points to electronic, I got it off Ebay it was the petronix ignition I think. It has been awhile since I installed it. I know it does run better after the installation. I am also having issues with my fuse box, I will eventually replace it.
that's a huge restoration. learned quiet a lot from your video. thanks.i have a 1971 MGB GT for nearly three years now. the SU HS4 is not keeping my ride consistently. i decided to convert to the 32/36 web. after the simple installation, it ran great, only when the engine gets warmed up and running idle for ten minutes, it started to skip, rough. shut it down. i tried to start again a few minutes later, still wouldn't fire up. i let set overnight, it starts right up but the engine still running rough when it is more than 10 minutes idling. i checked the other youtube for help. one guy mentioned requires the 5.5 mm phenolic spacer.on the carb and the inlet manifold. sorry for this long comment. the hot temperature causes a fuel vapor lock that makes it skipping and won't start. remember the original heatshield removed to dissipate the exhaust manifold? there's no way to put this heatshield. what i did was purchased 4 alum trays 12" x 8"; folded in half, places it underneath between the exhaust pipe and the carb. the other tray folds in half and place between the exhaust/inlet manifolds. this interference will make the carb fuel much cooler. i don't think the 5.5 mm space will solve the fuel vapor lock problem. Walmart sells 2 trays pack for 98 cents, get total of four trays.
Thank you. I am glad that the video was helpful. Aren't the cars fun. The GT's are starting to grow on me. If you have any questions let me know maybe we can pick each others brain. This is the biggest builds that I have ever done. I have never done body work or painted a car before. I am almost done with it. I have the seats, the back cloth piece the 2 sidekick panels to put in and I should be good to go. I will keep that in mind when I go to run mine, I have not had it running longer than a couple seconds before I got it. Keep an eye out if it happens I will get a hold of you. When I got this it had the weber side draft carb on it, but I have seen where people have had issues with this carb being put on it, I think it was because the fuel would pool on the bottom.
@@theawakening5548 nice to hear from you. #1 priority in restoration on MG is the floorboard. MGA was made of wood, the MGB and GT is a steel panel. better get it redone while everything is exposed. there is V8 engine i think that puts out 2300 cc. since this restoration might not be totally original number matched, you may consider the V8 engine. the web carb will need a heatshield to dissipate/block off the exhaust manifold heat. i just restored and sold the 1964 scout 80; had restored the '71 dodge challenger; i did have 1957 and 58 MGA back in the '60 when i was in the air force. had the Austin Healey sprite. i still love the original dodge challenger, not the modern top-heavy junk challenger. show me your project if you have time. you ever think about doing the wrap instead of the paint job? i just did the wrap on my 1996 Acura Integra. with 4D charcoal gray on the lower body and 3D for the hood and trunk. you can always change the color scheme later. take care and work safely.
@@theawakening5548 forgot to let you in on the gas tank restoration if it doesn't have rust problems. on the scout80 i took both sides 9 gal tanks off; I used nuts and bolts slush it around, around to break up the internal rust. do this until you can see a shining metal base by shining a flashlight inside. wash out inside with water and used dry air with air nozzle until totally inside dried. there is a product called Kote.gas tank sealer. guys use this for their motorcycle gas tank. one can be enough. make sure the gas tank is set outside the sun. when the sealer is poured in, it will run easily. don't do it when in a cold environment. the gas will ook red color. it's ok after a few tanks full. anything i can help, save this page and it will notify me by email from you. i'm located in patterson ca.
@@rtchow3000 I got all the metal work patched up as best I could. The Challenger sounds like to would be a fun project to do. I have always wanted a 67' Chevelle, maybe one day I can get one. From one air force vet to another thank you for your service. If you go to my channel I have a playlist of the 74 1/2 that is almost done and the 77 I fixed up really quick and sold before I left Colorado.I have seen those wraps they look pretty cool, I like the way that you can change the colors almost instantly. I thought that I would take a stab at trying to paint for the first time, it could have gone better, but I learned a lot by doing it. I think it came out pretty good for the first time painting. Have a great night stay safe.
@@rtchow3000 I have seen that done on some videos that is a good trick to do. I watch a lot of Mustie1 videos and he does that all the time. I think with this one I wanted to be safe and get rid of the old and in with the new. I saw your video on your MGB, I like the color. I will definitely contact you if I run into and issue. Many electrical issues with these cars, one of the issues I have going on right now are my turn signals blink really slow, I have read it is a possible ground issue which is probably coming from the front light and not the rear. I think I may have to clean them up a bit and see. I am pout here in Powell Tennesse
i forgot to mention the last challenger 1971 restored was a plum crazy purple. man, that was some beautiful color scheme. i have seen many shades of plum crazy purple, even on the TV episode GARAGE SQUAD. mine was the better texture, just right. my first dodge challenger was a 1970 RT apache teak with RT stripe on run from both front to rear side; giant RT on the hood with two scoops with 383 magnums attached. it was a rally 3-speed strip when i ordered from the CCK AFB in Taiwan commissary 1970 right before i got discharged. i sure love to find one with 383 and repaint to the very same scheme as my first ride.
That sounds like a very cool sweet ride. I love hearing stories of people owning some of the old cars. Now I can only dream of owning one.
FOR PERSONAL SAFETY AND PROPERTY PROTECTION, MAKING SURE GAS IS DRAINED FROM TANK BEFORE ANY DRILLING/WORK.
Yes make sure all the gas is out of the tank before removal. I hope nothing happened.
@@theawakening5548 no wonders i kept smelling gas after filling the tank. there was a huge gaping crack where the filler neck welded to the tank area. yes, i did drain all the fuel out and left the drain plug off, and let it sit for a couple of hours before any drilling, could spark by heat. i canceled the RED KOTE tank sealer, not needed.
@@rtchow3000 I am glad everything went well for you. That could have been really bad if not caught. Glad you found it when you did.
@@theawakening5548 learned the old trade from the AF on a jet engine and sheet metal work taking out rusted broken bolts. i had to drill 6 out of nine bolts. bad batting number. MG engineering was not up to snuff when coming to rust issues. this car was from the northeast US area. they use salt on the road during the winter snow. otherwise, it doesn't look too bad. i believe the water and dirt sit on top of the tank that creates the rust. i will put a heavy sealer on the tank top and all around once i get a new tank. spread a heavy coat of lube after the sealer dried.
@@rtchow3000 That is where it must have come from, lived in Ohio and we use salt on the roads. it is a nightmare for cars and mechanics.
Nice that you're keeping it on the road, but the weber...ugh! The SU's are such a pleasure and so easy to rebuild if needed. Your 74 would have had the HIF's and they just look so right when you lift the bonnet not to mention you'd get a little more power than you would with the weber.
Thank you sir. Actually I wish I still had the side draft weber, I heard those work the best as far as aftermarket. I know if I did that, I would have to buy the whole setup intake and carb. It might be something to look at in the future. I know I am getting upset with the fuel delivery and may end up springing for an original fuel pump.
@@theawakening5548 Webers are a waste, even the 45 DCOE unless you have ported the head, increased compression, installed a hotter camshaft.
The answer is install SUs.. simplest and most durable and efficient carburettor made.
@@jeffhildreth9244 I agree, I ripped the weber off and installed the dual HIF's. The car never ran better and it made it hard to trade. I could not keep the weber from running rich, even when I tried jetting it down. The intake did not help either by pooling fuel at the bottom.
bad bad news. the fuel tank mounting bolts and nut plates froze when i tried to remove them. only the ones with self-lock nut were ok. i'm drilling the hex head off so i can separate them from the bolt shank. i can lower the gas tank with the floor jack after removing the remainder hardware. man, this gas tank was never removed by the look of it. i have ordered the RED KOTE GAS TANK SEALER on eBay to reseal the leak.
That is really weird, I would think where you are located that there would not be rust issues too bad. I would replace the tank. Better safe on that one. I hate working around gas tanks.
Looking good!!
Thanks..getting there.
Did you hook up the vacuum advance to the distributor? If not why not. My carb (just like yours) is revving out of control. With no gas it, upon cranking it on, goes immediately to 4K rpm.
This distributor did not have a vacuum advance. I thought it was weird, but it did not effect anything. I upgraded it to electronic. I did take the weber off and put the HIF's on. The weber intake supposedly, if you have the flat one not the round one, will pool gas at the bottom below the carb so it always ran rich. I looked down the barrel one time and saw the raw gas there. I even tried jetting it and it did not work. As soon as I put the HIF on it ran perfect. Some people can get those carbs right, unfortunately I could not get it right. Is your idle turned up or is it revving up then down, up then down?
@@theawakening5548 Thank you for your reply. I was scared to let it go and rev all the way, it just seemed to go up and stay at 4k. The engine seemed to try to go higher, I just can not figure it out. I am going to try to empty gas tank, put a new fuel filter on it, hook up the vacuum advance to the distributor (I have not done it yet, it is not payday:)) and try again. I thought that the tube that the vacuum advance needs to be plugged on carb. (will try that too). I did have a Zeinth carb on there but I was having so much trouble with it that I got another carb (Webber 32/34) for it. I am a bit frustrated at it. The rest of the car is in good shape (newly rebuilt engine), no rust, so I will keep trying.
@@ianwashere12345 You are welcome, I am happy to give advice. I have done so much with this I have almost memorized the electrical system. Yes, you would plug your vacuum advance into one of the ports of the carb. It also sounds like there may be a vacuum leak. While running spray some starting fluid around the bottom of the carb and the intake. Please be careful doing it. If the idle goes down it will be a vacuum leak. The other thing with those webers they only handle about 2-3 psi of fuel pressure. I put this fuel pump on there and it seemed to work great with the SU's, I did not have to put on a regulator and was pretty cheap too.www.ebay.com/itm/292173987502
awakening, i ran the mgb gt with 32/36 web today with the alum foil trays as a heat dissipator. ran for almost 10 minutes, there was hardly heat in the carb area. after shutdown, practically no heat remains and started right up. i also found the source for engine stalling and skipping. this mgb gt has an air/water/vent??? separator inside the trunk at the right side; a rounded module with two hoses, one goes to the nipple fitting right under the fuel filler neck, other hose goes to the charcoal carbon canister in the engine compartment. the hose under the fuel filler neck was totally collapsed. replaced the hose; the engine ran much smoother now, not sure all the MGB incorporate this origin setup?
I am glad that you were able to find the issue. There is one on mine it has something to do with the emissions . Mine has been disconnected. I think it connects to the pump that is supposed to be there. I know you have to be careful with the with the electric up front. The 77 I had when the battery was connected it would turn on and killed the battery. It was part of the carbon canister, I had to disconnect it. I am thinking the one that is on my 74 does not work. Was the hose collapsed due to bad hose?
@@theawakening5548 yes, it was dry as a bone. The northwest mgb guy told me that's for venting gas vapor to the canister emission. It's better to replace this short hose while the filler neck is out. I gotta take the fuel tank out bc the senting unit corroded badly and the three tabs are useless. I also saw leak on top tank corner. I will use Kote red tank sealer as I did on the scout 80
i tried to send my three photos on the 32/36 web conversion with the alum trays for the heatshield dissipator to offset the gas vapor lock. i can send to your email easily, not able to attach to a youtube reply.
That would be extremely helpful. You can send it to theawakening79@outlook.com
Had same issues with mine (re gas tank, with expensive fittings!) Looking at same carb upgrade, but keeping the manual choke. Where did you get your carb from? WIll be starting a rebuild of mine (and making vids) that I have had for about 17 years, but never got to working on.....will keep an eye out for your updates as you proceed!
ScopiJohnson. Yeah I could not believe how expensive that fitting was, thank God I only needed one of them. I got the carb on eBay from allautomotive and I do think they have the manual choke and electric for sale. Just make sure you have your exhaust upgraded where it is a separate manifold from the intake. If you have any trouble or questions let me know I might be able to help. Thank you for watching.
ScopiJohnson I subscribed to you so I will keep an eye out for your progress.
Yeah man, I already have the separate intake from my twin SUs, and i have a pacesetter header and monza exhaust (need to get an exhaust shop to refit it though, last guys messed it up). Thanks for the vids and keep it up! I am checking out DIYAuto as well, that guy is awesome.
Awesome, thanks for the Sub! I will get the first vid up this weekend to show what I have to work with!
ScopiJohnson No worries I can't wait to see what you have to work with, hopefully your metal work is minimal compared to mine. My friend Pete is a good dude I have learned a lot by watching his videos. What year is yours?