Hey the return air stream of the evap is a good place to put the sensing bulb at to read actual box temperature. Nice vid, nice pressure washer wand. 👍
The return path is was where we have located the builb on all the low profile evaporators that I have worked on, but this box had a monitored temperature alarm that was out of calibration and kept going off. So I moved it after replacing the thermostat did not remedy the issue, Thanks for watching and commenting, I really do appreciate it!
I had a walkin freezer that would blow fuses I checked everything a month later fuse blown again. I couldn't find out why. I eventually found the wires running between the evaporator fan motors would at times wiggle and rub against a knockout that had not grommet. I replaced the knockout with a nice plastic sleeve never had problems again.
Should make a video on superheat with walk in coolers and freezers since it has thrown me through a loop more than once. I love and hate hail marry's on these kind of things but most of the time it works out thankfully.
Yea, I showed some of the difficulties in the video I did where I converted it to 134a from hot shot. Are you talking about the superheat numbers that we are shooting or far as the valve never wanting to calm down and hunts.
That's why I like cracking them open to verify my assumption. Because I'm not a parts changer I like to feel confident that I got the problems solved the first time, however this call taught me to slow down and check it all.
@@HVACRSurvival I honestly have never witnessed those relays tripping a breaker. But in our industry, when you think you seen it all BAM!!! Something new. That's why I love what we do 🤙🏼
@@azhvacr2332 the relay didn't trip the breaker the relay not disengaging the electric elements while the compressor was short cycling is what was causing the issue.
It's weird, it's hit n miss sometimes. In theory if it's pumped down I don't see why you need a heater. Generally that's to keep the refrigerant from saturating the refrigerant oil and washing it away. If it's pumped down it's going to be on the high side of the valves and trapped before the evaporator. So when that when the solenoid releases it's going to boil off as it goes through the evaporator before it gets back to the compressor on startup.
I have never heard of coil defrost heaters referred to as "electric strip heat". It looks like your defrost termination is letting coil get too hot causing the water droplets on ceiling.
Electric strip heat is probably my hillbilly talk left over from HVAC going into refrigeration? (I like to abbreviate things, kind of like an ice machine goes into a harvest but really it's a defrost, a reversing valve is a four-way valve, TXV is really a TEV) 😁. The schematic didn't even show the termination switch on it but obviously in the video you see it has one but because of all the other issues running up the clock I didn't spend a lot of time on it, but you are correct it seems like it's getting a little to warm , one downside of those electronic defrost clocks is the 15 minute increments, if it was a traditional analog clock I could have set it at 22-25 minutes. Thanks 4 watching!
@@HVACRSurvival trust me I recently came from residential to commercial and i cant help but call it electric strip heat too lol. Txv's and all that resi jargon. You did a great job and are very thorough!
+Sandeep Sekhon ***Spray nozzles for power sprayer amzn.to/2MsfjRt go to the info tab underneath the video and you'll see links to four different kits that I put together, The kits list every tool I use in the video. This helps support the channel while not costing you a penny more.
@@sandeepsekhon6748 according to data RUclips provides me, 75 to 80% of the people our viewing these videos with their phone, only 25% is viewing on a computer, because the procedure to get to the description is different for the phone versus the computer, it's harder to explain that in the video without sounding like a Salesman. Thanks 4 watching👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the compliment! I'm just sharing my experiences not because I'm great or a master. I just try to do the best, most complete job possible. Thanks 4 watching👍🏻👍🏻
What you have to remember about circuit breakers is that they have two types of tripping elements - most folks only think of the short circuit trip - that is the magnetic trip part of the breaker and is what is referred to as instantaneous- the other trip element is caused by heat - that is the overload ... when a motor turns on and off rapidly the inrush from the motor starts are several times the breaker ratio g usually - these rapid starts will overheat the thermal element in the breaker and cause a trip. Also on these smaller breakers they are only rated at 80% of their nameplate rating continuously.. continuously in the electrical world of circuit breakers is anything over 3 hours. So your 20 amp breaker is only good for 16 amps continuously... I have seen lots of breakers loaded to their 80% for long periods of time and have a compressor cycle and cause the breaker to trip. There are some rules in the national electric code that allow for up sizing a breaker if you have these problems.
Two weeks after this video was released, a shorted wire in the evap area was found as the fault. 🤷♂️ Your dead on about the 80% rule👍👍Thanks for your explanation 🤜🤛🍺🍺
I've come across breakers that get hot and trip after about 20 minutes of the unit running but everything checks out perfect on the unit so I wrote it off as a bad breaker possible an old breaker
Click on the link this is all my videos. Click on videos tab at the top and that will be all of them I have 30+ that are not listed from my previous name that need to have things edited out that show my company info
Great explanation of troubleshooting as you narrow the possibilities of failed components!
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your support and feedback! 🤜🤛👍👍
Nice job on the relay. I never thought about doing that. You are correct
Thanks for checking it out!
Nice find and solution on the interlock relay
Thank you👍👍
Nice catch on the relay. In depth, so glad you're back.
Thanks Sakman!
Very good and thorough work. You have some really good hand tools and equipment. The DeWalt right angle drive attachment is really handy.
Good job Rick.
Thanks man!
Hey the return air stream of the evap is a good place to put the sensing bulb at to read actual box temperature. Nice vid, nice pressure washer wand. 👍
The return path is was where we have located the builb on all the low profile evaporators that I have worked on, but this box had a monitored temperature alarm that was out of calibration and kept going off. So I moved it after replacing the thermostat did not remedy the issue, Thanks for watching and commenting, I really do appreciate it!
You Work so Good all you’re equipment is great. Greetings from Mexico. 👍🏽
Awesome👍👍 Gracious! I'm glad you came aboard 🤜💥🤛
Good vid and good info Rick ... Ain't it good to be back doing what you do !!!
Yes it is😁
Great video. Those random shorts are like chasing a ghost! Hopefully you got that one. well done
I believe it was the short cycling of the compressor with the defrost heaters not disengaging. Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Good one on diagnosis Rick 👍
I got it eventually. 😉
I had a walkin freezer that would blow fuses I checked everything a month later fuse blown again. I couldn't find out why. I eventually found the wires running between the evaporator fan motors would at times wiggle and rub against a knockout that had not grommet. I replaced the knockout with a nice plastic sleeve never had problems again.
Yea, that sucks for real. Thanks for sharing your story👍🏻👍🏻
Great video, thanks!
Thanks 4 checking it out👍👍
Should make a video on superheat with walk in coolers and freezers since it has thrown me through a loop more than once. I love and hate hail marry's on these kind of things but most of the time it works out thankfully.
Yea, I showed some of the difficulties in the video I did where I converted it to 134a from hot shot. Are you talking about the superheat numbers that we are shooting or far as the valve never wanting to calm down and hunts.
Nice 1, cant always tell on them relays 👍🏼
That's why I like cracking them open to verify my assumption. Because I'm not a parts changer I like to feel confident that I got the problems solved the first time, however this call taught me to slow down and check it all.
@@HVACRSurvival I honestly have never witnessed those relays tripping a breaker. But in our industry, when you think you seen it all BAM!!! Something new. That's why I love what we do 🤙🏼
@@azhvacr2332 the relay didn't trip the breaker the relay not disengaging the electric elements while the compressor was short cycling is what was causing the issue.
On Subcooling and Superheat which does it fall under Evaporators or Condenser or both.
Superheat is evap usually, subcooling is condenser.
A lot of great info
I try to make it worth your time, thanks for watching!
You make great videos thanks
Thank's, I try to make it worth watching.
Good job like always bro
Thanks bud!
Do these pumpdown systems also hv compresser heaters too or is that in very cold climates? Thx
It's weird, it's hit n miss sometimes. In theory if it's pumped down I don't see why you need a heater. Generally that's to keep the refrigerant from saturating the refrigerant oil and washing it away. If it's pumped down it's going to be on the high side of the valves and trapped before the evaporator. So when that when the solenoid releases it's going to boil off as it goes through the evaporator before it gets back to the compressor on startup.
What is normal operating super heat.
For a cooler, freezer, AC?
I have never heard of coil defrost heaters referred to as "electric strip heat". It looks like your defrost termination is letting coil get too hot causing the water droplets on ceiling.
Electric strip heat is probably my hillbilly talk left over from HVAC going into refrigeration? (I like to abbreviate things, kind of like an ice machine goes into a harvest but really it's a defrost, a reversing valve is a four-way valve, TXV is really a TEV) 😁. The schematic didn't even show the termination switch on it but obviously in the video you see it has one but because of all the other issues running up the clock I didn't spend a lot of time on it, but you are correct it seems like it's getting a little to warm , one downside of those electronic defrost clocks is the 15 minute increments, if it was a traditional analog clock I could have set it at 22-25 minutes. Thanks 4 watching!
@@HVACRSurvival trust me I recently came from residential to commercial and i cant help but call it electric strip heat too lol. Txv's and all that resi jargon. You did a great job and are very thorough!
@@thefambam9305 Thanks Anthony, I appreciate your compliment. It all takes time to learn, I'm learning everyday.
Water droplets could be a number of things...drain down time fan delay etc
Hey man. Any chance you have the part number for the 90 degree adapter for the worx wand?
+Sandeep Sekhon ***Spray nozzles for power sprayer amzn.to/2MsfjRt
go to the info tab underneath the video and you'll see links to four different kits that I put together, The kits list every tool I use in the video. This helps support the channel while not costing you a penny more.
@@HVACRSurvival didn't even look...my apologies. Thanks bro! Great videos btw. Much appreciated good sir!
@@sandeepsekhon6748 according to data RUclips provides me, 75 to 80% of the people our viewing these videos with their phone, only 25% is viewing on a computer, because the procedure to get to the description is different for the phone versus the computer, it's harder to explain that in the video without sounding like a Salesman. Thanks 4 watching👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Master
Thanks for the compliment! I'm just sharing my experiences not because I'm great or a master. I just try to do the best, most complete job possible. Thanks 4 watching👍🏻👍🏻
What you have to remember about circuit breakers is that they have two types of tripping elements - most folks only think of the short circuit trip - that is the magnetic trip part of the breaker and is what is referred to as instantaneous- the other trip element is caused by heat - that is the overload ... when a motor turns on and off rapidly the inrush from the motor starts are several times the breaker ratio g usually - these rapid starts will overheat the thermal element in the breaker and cause a trip. Also on these smaller breakers they are only rated at 80% of their nameplate rating continuously.. continuously in the electrical world of circuit breakers is anything over 3 hours. So your 20 amp breaker is only good for 16 amps continuously... I have seen lots of breakers loaded to their 80% for long periods of time and have a compressor cycle and cause the breaker to trip. There are some rules in the national electric code that allow for up sizing a breaker if you have these problems.
Two weeks after this video was released, a shorted wire in the evap area was found as the fault. 🤷♂️ Your dead on about the 80% rule👍👍Thanks for your explanation 🤜🤛🍺🍺
I've come across breakers that get hot and trip after about 20 minutes of the unit running but everything checks out perfect on the unit so I wrote it off as a bad breaker possible an old breaker
Blimey how come I only came accross this video just now ? I thought I had watched them all ...🤔
ruclips.net/user/ucantstopthis1
Click on the link this is all my videos. Click on videos tab at the top and that will be all of them I have 30+ that are not listed from my previous name that need to have things edited out that show my company info
@@HVACRSurvival noice ! Cheers for that !
👍🏻👌😎🤙
🤜🤛Thank you!
#60 thumbs up
+Steve Blake Thanks Steve!
I enjoy your videos but would prefer less profane inferring like "fricking". It detracts from your professionalism.