For a more secure installation, I would recommend swapping out all your screws for Cabinet screws. As a professional Contractor, I've found that people who use construction screws for IKEA installations can see slippage by as much as a 1/8" after your cabinets are fully loaded and your counters are installed. The construction screws you are using have tapered heads. They are funnel shaped (V-Shaped) and aren't designed for holding the rail. The angled head is designed to sink into wood (countersink). This can commonly cause your RAIL to slip. Causing your countertop to drop slightly at the back. A lot of kitchens will see an accumulation of water at the backsplash. And, you'll be constantly wiping it up.
Hey thanks for the comment. Sounds like good advice... a stronger screw is always better. I did some quick math when I was installing and the construction screws at 16” spacing was more than enough to hold the rough weight of cabinets plus counter top
In the video he added an extra screw to the bottom of the rail. A much stronger alternative would be to screw a piece of plywood under the rail. Make the ply the same length of the rail, 6 inches wide with a couple of screws in each stud, and that would be going nowhere.
@@joshhyma842No, I used cabinet screws on my tail and added a few under the rail. You drive them far enough that the heads don't interfere. I also had the walls open so I put blocking in for the rail too.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Dude I'm given this video a thumbs up 👍 I've put things together before and I'm here to tell you every neighbor heard me cussing in every language. Glad to see some one is good putting things together. Good job 👏❤️🇺🇸❤️
Great product I highly recommend them. Two things I wish I had done differently was ensure my walls were perfectly flat. I took out a window and it caused a bow in the wall which made installing the rail difficult. Also getting the consultation and the at home measuring would’ve been money well spent. Other than that it took a week for my order to come in.
I just had my friend who is a kitchen cabinet installer do my small base only kitchen! He did not use the rail system as he told me if the walls aren't perfectly square it would be hell. He attached some thicker laminate at the back/top and back bottom of my bases and then screwed them to wall after having to shim where it was not square! The counter had to be planed to fit correctly. Good luck everyone with their installs. The cabinets are built very well and worth their cost!
That is definitely a concern … you can shim the rail if you need to as well but only abit. If your walls are really bad you may be better off sbuilding the base like your friend did. Thanks for watching!
I used the ikea cabinets for a large high end remodel on a customer’s flip I did about 15 years ago to save on the budget by the owner’s choice. I was adamantly against ikea before we started, but it wasn’t my money paying and box store cabinets were going to be about $15,000 more money. We modified the ikea cabinets at a pretty modest cost to be better than stock. The stock cabinet backing was pretty thin on the uppers (not much thicker than cardboard) and would flex if you pushed on it so we ripped replacement backs out of finished maple plywood. The other thing we did was throw out the feet and make our own toe kicks because it was easier and more familiar for us to layout and stronger sense we used a very thick slab for the countertop. Overall the cabinets looked great and the only part that I thought looked ikea instead of custom was the drawers were metal.
Everytime I hear an American measuring I'm like "why don't you guys just move to metric?!?!" It's really nice to see a detailed installation, cause well...you don't know what you don't know! Thank you.
Thanks lol. I’m actually Canadian so I’m bilingual in terms of measuring…. Most of the audience is us based so I discuss measurements based on imperial
What in hell are you hammering with? It looks like a hatchet! Lots of practical tips. You’re making me consider IKEA cabinets now AND tackling the installation myself. Thanks so much!
instagram.com/p/CN_DkgRnbkL/?igshid=bp6jvs000hge the finished product looks great! And lol yes it’s a roofers hammer. Half axe/half hatchet. I was waiting for this comment!
Can you please tell me why you don't put the flooring in first? I am a novice when it comes to home improvements, and that seems like it would be the other way around. Thanks in advance.
It would be fine either way, just different stages of the renovation.... the only thing to watch out for is that “floating” floors need room to move if you pin them down with cabinets you could have problems later Most of the weight on the lies cabinets is taken up by the wall rail so not a big deal to put on the floor Except for the islands which screw to the floor
looks great. i'm confused on the end panel for your upper cabinets. you added an end panel between the upper above the sink on it's left and right. is the upper above the sink not a 36" wide cabinet matching the 36" sink base? it seems it would have to be only 35" wide to accommodate the 2 1/2" end panels, in order to keep your cabinet joints to continue to line up from the lowers to the uppers as you move away from your center point
I'm sure it's much easier in a new construction like in the video. We're changing the layout of an existing kitchen which is why I'm leaning towards hiring professionals
Definitely use a driver if you can. I’m not sure of the size off hand but a typical hex head kit would have it. Careful not to over torque it though the screws can break the wood if They are torqued too much
Hey Vicky the finishing boards are not 100% required but I would use them. They really frame in the cabinet doors. I would check with ikea if the cabinet finish is heat resistant but I’ve seen a finishing board used on a tall cabinet beside a stove with out issue. Thanks for watching!
thank you for this helpful video! I had planned to put in cabinets and then do floor afterward as you did...and you mentioned something about adding an 1/8th of an inch to the wall layout? Can you help clarify? If I am putting in base cabinets first, and then later have floor run up to the toe kick...how should I change the measurements that IKEA tells us to make for the rail on the wall??? THANK YOU!!
U would need to increase the height of the rail by the thickness of your flooring to make sure that your counter is at the standard height…..also you should run your flooring tight to the cabinet legs and then install the toe kick over top. This will make sure that floor edge is completely concealed. Good luck!
Yes and no…. I installed a floating floor which is supposed to be able to move…. If the cabinets pin the floor down it can lead to issues with the floor like the joints separating
@@DIYDudes thank you for replying, always good to learn something new! Never heard of floating floors before, will definitely do some research on that!
You never mentioned how you decided to place the upper rail at the height. What is the appropriate height for upper rails for a kitchen ceiling that is 84inches?
You’ll have to a bit of math…. Assume the base cabinet height plus counter thickness plus 18” for backsplash plus the height of the bottom of your upper cabinet to the mounting point at the rail. It’s different in every one’s situation
Sorry if this is a silly question. Do you buy the appliances first and then get the cabinets or install the cabinets and hope the space one leaves is enough for the stove?
A standard stove is 30” and the depth of the counters. Dish washers are usually 24”. You can check on line for standard openings or look up your specific appliance if you are getting something oversized. Good luck!
I agree that would be a good look maybe I’ll look at that for the next one it would be good to have that extra height .... you’d have to be really tall to reach those top shelves though lol
@@nothingbutthebest3051 there's always stuff you don't need on daily basis though.. use a step ladder when u do.. my delivery is coming in a day.. can't wait to put it together
@@AvengerIl good luck! Any questions let me know, Did u have any delays getting the cabinets I was there a couple weeks ago and they said they were having supply problems due to covid, I couldn’t get any bases!
@@nothingbutthebest3051 they got my money on Friday and cabinets are coming Monday! Fingers crossed but I seem to be lucky.. I did order finger pull and gloss white.. very boring and standard!
What about the worktops? I need advice on fitting them. And it was very confusing being in inches. My ikea cabinets are mainly 60 or 40 cms wide and 80cms high.
I had some other work going on in the house as well and didn’t want to damage the floor. It’s a floating vinyl plank floor so it installed easily around the cabinets afterwards…. Technically also floating floors shouldn’t be “pinned” by the weight of the cabinets to allow for expansion and contraction
Start by taking the height of your finished counter top from the floor, then Add 18” for your backsplash then measure the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the clip the rail hooks onto and add that all together and that is the height of your rail from the floor. Good luck!
Thank you. The definitely do sell built in appliances. I would check out there website and then use their kitchen planner tool. All of their options will be available there.
Michelle is right they are the grey bodbyn model. I posted a link but go on their site and check out their kitchen planning tool it’s great to design your own lay outs The finished kitchen looks awesome, i will post a finished photo at some point Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video and all your tips!! I just wanted to ask you why you didn't install your flooring before installing the kitchen? Is it more convenient to do it later?
Thanks for watching. The only reason I did it after was the floor is designed to be a floating floor. I didn’t want the cabinet legs sitting on top of it and I didn’t want to work around the floor while installing the cabinets.
I used a grinder with metal cutting 4.5” blade. Just make sure the sparks aren’t shooting at any thing that could get charred . I just put up some card board to protect. Good luck!
Hey Arti thanks for watching, I’m not a carpenter or tradesman. Just a lot of diy practice over the years. You could definitely tackle an ikea cabinet install yourself just make sure you understand the design and how everything goes together before you start. Ikea staff can help you with that while u do your design there, good luck!
So the cabinet above the sink, do you leave the bottom white? Is there a finishing panel for that? I think it looks great, but that would be distracting to me.
The underside is below eye level so you don’t even see it but you can also buy a valance strip as well to cover up the bottom. Check out our other ikea cabinet video. I do another set with the valance strip
@DIY Dudes great work..!! very useful information.. by the way. Do you have all list of the products that you've use in this video? like what type of product IKEA and the accessories? I'm also a beginner DIYer and trying to know this things. Hoping for your kind reply on this comment thank you and keep up the good work
Hi there these cabinets were the Bodbyn Grey finish…. Accessories were basic in this set up, only the maxim soft close drawers. Anything else please let me know. Thank you!
Great work. Given you used quartz, any issues with the quartz being laid on the cabinets/island? Were the metal brackets along the front that don't sit flush a problem? Just wondering how these would sit level.
The ikea systems (and most other box stores) sell 6 or 8’ lengths which you would have to cut to length. I did a quartz counter top so i wasn’t Able to show that , maybe next time
The best advice would be go to IKEAs website and play with their kitchen design tool. If you need some help with that call ikea and make an appointment to speak with a kitchen planner. They will help you out with everything you need and the design consulting is free if you buy the cabinets from them Good luck!
Hey Paul basic tools included: drill, laser level, regular level, skill saw to trim the panels to length, wood clamps, screws and wall anchors if necessary and that was it. Thanks for watching
It actually isn’t that bad 100% of the weight of the upper cabinets is supported by the rail installed on the wall... the cabinets hook on to the rail and can slide back forth easily for adjustment.... two people would help but they are only maybe 50lbs so not to bad to lift up
They are comparable in price to home. Depot. Ikea has a lot of perks though… highly customizable, easy install., great design team in store and great design software online, high quality This set up cost about. $2700cad/$2100 usd. (No countertop)
@@DIYDudes true, I've came across your video and helped me a lot installing my kitchen and I wished I had a converter so I did it myself for the future people who would watch the video.
One thing I did to ensure a clean edge is use a router and/or they make a jigsaw blade that has teeth half facing up and half down to give you a clean edge.
you also placed the washers for metal railing wrong.. i mean it will not break or something like that but by rotaiting them 90 degrees you can raise or lower the track for evening it out :D
Thanks for watching!, I used my laser level and premarked every thing So no adjustments required. But yes you are right if you turn the washers the other way you can screw it in not fully tight and still adjust the rail abit
I don’t exactly remember and your situation maybe abit different. Start by considering the height of your finished counter should be 36 inches. Deduct the thickness of the counter top then deduct the distance from the top of the cabinet to the top of the cabinet clip that hooks onto the rail. The remainder will be the distance from the top of your finished floor to the top of the rail (make sure to add your floor thickness if the floors not installed yet)
@@DIYDudes Sorry i worded it wrong. I meant the height of installing the rail for the uppers, to get the desired height from the bottom of the UPPER cabinet to the counter. For example if you want 18inches between the bottom of the upper cabinet to the counter top, how high must the rail be installed for the upper cabinets? I guess that would be something to just measure by putting a rail on the back of the upper(while on the floor) and measure to the bottom of that upper box and add 18 inches?
Yes similar concept take the height of your finished counter top. Add 18” then measure the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the clip the rail hooks onto and that is that height of your rail. Good luck!
Great video!! I was just wondering if I plan to install quartz or granite countertops, will the cabinets be strong enough Do I need to put 2x4 studs underneath to better support the weight or are the rails and plastic legs strong enough. Thanks
Question about the cover panels by the stove and dishwasher. I am doing a white cabinet from ikea but didn’t plan on adding those because they will be covered. I see they are white still, did you not end up using them?
Hey there no I actually didn’t end up using the side panels by the stove because the stove does cover and I was worried it was going to be abit tight after I installed them. I will end up installing one at the dishwasher though Generally if it’s not visible it’s not a big deal
If your face color is anything other than white you run the risk of visible white base showing at the seems and door reveal. And potential rubbing against appliances when opening and closing doors.
The hinges also have a locking mechanism that be easily popped off if you want to remove the doors for cleaning or painting. Once you are ready to reinstall them they can be snapped easily back in place.
what happens if you have a wall that has piping for plumbing running along one of the walls? going to another kitchen? Do we have to build out the wall to accomdate the rails?
instagram.com/p/CN_DkgRnbkL/?igshid=bp6jvs000hge the finished product looks great! Check out the Ike’s website and use their planning tool. Lots of great design ideas there. And if heard that it can be done but I never have so not to sure on tiling over tile.
Looks good and you did a good install job. I would personally pass on these we just spent $20,000 on cabinets with a Cambria countertop, absolutely love them and there is not particle board or cardboard in them all wood.
That kitchen was under 3k for the cabinets and 1500 for a quartz countertop top with sink…. Canadian dollars. So not bad. You get what you pay for though I’m sure yours looks amazing
This was my initial concern, also. I saw videos of 3 to 5 year old IKEA installs in U.S., and have been in 10 year old IKEA kitchens in Sweden (with young children in the house): The cabinets still look great. Compare that with my friend who just got an estimate for his custom 3/4 birch, including install at $23,000. And that was a bargain price compared to other estimates. My IKEA cabinets cost $7,000 with free 2 year financing, and I will install myself. Third party install would be $3,500.
It’s actually super easy. The rail is the same steps as the bottom rail and then the cabinets literally just may hang off of it and screw to one another. Thanks for watching
I'm not sure if the Ikea cabinets had a large price increase over the last year but pricing them out vs Home Depot already assembled cabinets, not much of a saving from Ikea.
Possibly yes. I know they had shortages due to covid like everyone else… Ikea is comparable but lots of benefits in terms of customization.. even modification if you want to change things later
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
For a more secure installation, I would recommend swapping out all your screws for Cabinet screws. As a professional Contractor, I've found that people who use construction screws for IKEA installations can see slippage by as much as a 1/8" after your cabinets are fully loaded and your counters are installed. The construction screws you are using have tapered heads. They are funnel shaped (V-Shaped) and aren't designed for holding the rail. The angled head is designed to sink into wood (countersink). This can commonly cause your RAIL to slip. Causing your countertop to drop slightly at the back. A lot of kitchens will see an accumulation of water at the backsplash. And, you'll be constantly wiping it up.
Hey thanks for the comment. Sounds like good advice... a stronger screw is always better. I did some quick math when I was installing and the construction screws at 16” spacing was more than enough to hold the rough weight of cabinets plus counter top
@@DIYDudes good job on the video, they take a lot of work!
In the video he added an extra screw to the bottom of the rail. A much stronger alternative would be to screw a piece of plywood under the rail. Make the ply the same length of the rail, 6 inches wide with a couple of screws in each stud, and that would be going nowhere.
@@ian9toes Wouldn't the cabinets stick out from the wall then?
@@joshhyma842No, I used cabinet screws on my tail and added a few under the rail. You drive them far enough that the heads don't interfere.
I also had the walls open so I put blocking in for the rail too.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Thank you!
Dude I'm given this video a thumbs up 👍 I've put things together before and I'm here to tell you every neighbor heard me cussing in every language. Glad to see some one is good putting things together. Good job 👏❤️🇺🇸❤️
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Fabulous video!!! You answered all of my questions, including ones I wouldn’t have known to ask. Thank you!
Thank you!
That was awsome thank you for explaining things ABC style so I know where and what to drill and measure.
Glad to help!
Watching you doing looks very easy. Cool!
Thanks. I feel like ikea designed these for diyers. They are as easy as they look!
Great product I highly recommend them. Two things I wish I had done differently was ensure my walls were perfectly flat. I took out a window and it caused a bow in the wall which made installing the rail difficult. Also getting the consultation and the at home measuring would’ve been money well spent. Other than that it took a week for my order to come in.
Good point. You can actually shim the rail if you know you arnt flat. Kind of a pain but it’s possible.
I just had my friend who is a kitchen cabinet installer do my small base only kitchen! He did not use the rail system as he told me if the walls aren't perfectly square it would be hell. He attached some thicker laminate at the back/top and back bottom of my bases and then screwed them to wall after having to shim where it was not square! The counter had to be planed to fit correctly. Good luck everyone with their installs. The cabinets are built very well and worth their cost!
That is definitely a concern … you can shim the rail if you need to as well but only abit. If your walls are really bad you may be better off sbuilding the base like your friend did. Thanks for watching!
I used the ikea cabinets for a large high end remodel on a customer’s flip I did about 15 years ago to save on the budget by the owner’s choice. I was adamantly against ikea before we started, but it wasn’t my money paying and box store cabinets were going to be about $15,000 more money. We modified the ikea cabinets at a pretty modest cost to be better than stock. The stock cabinet backing was pretty thin on the uppers (not much thicker than cardboard) and would flex if you pushed on it so we ripped replacement backs out of finished maple plywood. The other thing we did was throw out the feet and make our own toe kicks because it was easier and more familiar for us to layout and stronger sense we used a very thick slab for the countertop. Overall the cabinets looked great and the only part that I thought looked ikea instead of custom was the drawers were metal.
They are much better now.
I agree. They are pretty good quality now… better than they werw
Our ikea cabinets are the only cabinets that held up to us growing up 🤣 they still look brand new and my parents got them 15 years ago!
I know! Honestly the quality is super high... equal to or better than many custom cabinet shops. Thanks for watching!
for really?? I'm going to buy it tmr LOL
Very nice video with clear attention to measurement details.
Glad you liked it!
My family love this video that you. We’re planning to remodel my kitchen very soon .will visit Ikea furniture one day.
Good luck! If you have any questions just leave a comment
Everytime I hear an American measuring I'm like "why don't you guys just move to metric?!?!"
It's really nice to see a detailed installation, cause well...you don't know what you don't know! Thank you.
Thanks lol. I’m actually Canadian so I’m bilingual in terms of measuring…. Most of the audience is us based so I discuss measurements based on imperial
Okay so far that I’ve seen, you have the best ikea kitchen build video on RUclips. Thank you!
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Video on installing big cabinet 80" and 90,.
Excellent video.
Thank you!
Thank you , love how you explain thing, can’t wait to do it myself.
Good luck!
What in hell are you hammering with? It looks like a hatchet! Lots of practical tips. You’re making me consider IKEA cabinets now AND tackling the installation myself. Thanks so much!
instagram.com/p/CN_DkgRnbkL/?igshid=bp6jvs000hge the finished product looks great!
And lol yes it’s a roofers hammer. Half axe/half hatchet. I was waiting for this comment!
Novices uses a hammer. Pros use a tomahawke!
@@ed2345 Well at least I’d be able to do a professional job of butchering the cabinets. Lol.
IKEA used to have small plastic jig for you to place nails perfectly in the center and save your fingers. Worked great for me as a newbie
That actually would be great., Thanks for watching!
@@DIYDudes photo i.redd.it/l79mkluaoqh11.jpg. Awesome video, guess i'll try to install next kitchen myself
Great video. I do the same thing except i use (CabinetCo) rta cabinets instead since they are solid wood and easier to assemble...in my opinion.
Thanks for the info!
Great vid. Thanks for your clear and simple instruction,
Thank you!
Great Video! Love the finished kitchen
nice video. We are having renovation now and the kitchen is yet to be done. Can't wait to start!
Thanks and good luck!
Nice work, you should do a countertop installation video too!
Thanks, we ended up doing a quartz countertop which was subcontracted out. Maybe on the next one!
Interesting in coming to Florida? I would hire you to build and install my cabinets. Great video!
Thanks for watching! I’m sure if you give it a shot you could handle it
Great tutorial, THANKS
Thanks!
Can you please tell me why you don't put the flooring in first? I am a novice when it comes to home improvements, and that seems like it would be the other way around. Thanks in advance.
It would be fine either way, just different stages of the renovation.... the only thing to watch out for is that “floating” floors need room to move if you pin them down with cabinets you could have problems later
Most of the weight on the lies cabinets is taken up by the wall rail so not a big deal to put on the floor Except for the islands which screw to the floor
@@nothingbutthebest3051 thank you for the information. I am learning so much from watching YTers like you.
looks great. i'm confused on the end panel for your upper cabinets. you added an end panel between the upper above the sink on it's left and right. is the upper above the sink not a 36" wide cabinet matching the 36" sink base? it seems it would have to be only 35" wide to accommodate the 2 1/2" end panels, in order to keep your cabinet joints to continue to line up from the lowers to the uppers as you move away from your center point
The side of the uppers was exposed white and needs a cover panel to conceal it. The 1/2” on either side is imperceptible
Great video thanks for making it
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great work as always! 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm sure it's much easier in a new construction like in the video. We're changing the layout of an existing kitchen which is why I'm leaning towards hiring professionals
That was a remodel. You’ll pay huge mark up on a kitchen remodel.
If you have the money though it’s money we’ll spent. Good luck!
@@DIYDudes thanks for clarifying
what size is the Allen key/wrench that is used. i would like to get a couple for my driver before I start to be prepared. excellent video
Definitely use a driver if you can. I’m not sure of the size off hand but a typical hex head kit would have it.
Careful not to over torque it though the screws can break the wood if
They are torqued too much
I didn’t understand how did you install the up cabinets? I mean how did you fix them at the wall?
Use the same method for installing the lower rail as the upper rail. The cabinets get hung in the rail.
Are finishing boards necessary for either sides of the oven? Is heat shielding necessary?
Hey Vicky the finishing boards are not 100% required but I would use them. They really frame in the cabinet doors.
I would check with ikea if the cabinet finish is heat resistant but I’ve seen a finishing board used on a tall cabinet beside a stove with out issue.
Thanks for watching!
Does any cabinet door fit any cabinet or do the doors have to be matched with the cabinets?
Yes specific doors match to specific cabinets. Thanks for watching
thank you for this helpful video! I had planned to put in cabinets and then do floor afterward as you did...and you mentioned something about adding an 1/8th of an inch to the wall layout? Can you help clarify? If I am putting in base cabinets first, and then later have floor run up to the toe kick...how should I change the measurements that IKEA tells us to make for the rail on the wall??? THANK YOU!!
U would need to increase the height of the rail by the thickness of your flooring to make sure that your counter is at the standard height…..also you should run your flooring tight to the cabinet legs and then install the toe kick over top. This will make sure that floor edge is completely concealed. Good luck!
Great video!
Glad you liked it!
Wow!! Nice job!
Thank you!
Awesome job! Just confused about the floor… wouldn’t it be easier to finish the floor first?
Yes and no…. I installed a floating floor which is supposed to be able to move…. If the cabinets pin the floor down it can lead to issues with the floor like the joints separating
@@DIYDudes thank you for replying, always good to learn something new! Never heard of floating floors before, will definitely do some research on that!
@@DIYDudes thank you, I had the same question!
You never mentioned how you decided to place the upper rail at the height. What is the appropriate height for upper rails for a kitchen ceiling that is 84inches?
You’ll have to a bit of math…. Assume the base cabinet height plus counter thickness plus 18” for backsplash plus the height of the bottom of your upper cabinet to the mounting point at the rail.
It’s different in every one’s situation
How do you fix the gap between bottom of the cabinet and the cabinet?
Sorry if this is a silly question. Do you buy the appliances first and then get the cabinets or install the cabinets and hope the space one leaves is enough for the stove?
A standard stove is 30” and the depth of the counters. Dish washers are usually 24”. You can check on line for standard openings or look up your specific appliance if you are getting something oversized. Good luck!
@@DIYDudes Thanks very much. This was not immediately obvious to me
No problem I don’t know that either until I built my first kitchen!
Epic! I'm obsessed with going all the way to the ceiling... Personal choice I guess. Why do it any other way through? IKEA has the height required
I agree that would be a good look maybe I’ll look at that for the next one it would be good to have that extra height .... you’d have to be really tall to reach those top shelves though lol
@@nothingbutthebest3051 there's always stuff you don't need on daily basis though.. use a step ladder when u do.. my delivery is coming in a day.. can't wait to put it together
@@AvengerIl good luck! Any questions let me know, Did u have any delays getting the cabinets I was there a couple weeks ago and they said they were having supply problems due to covid, I couldn’t get any bases!
@@nothingbutthebest3051 they got my money on Friday and cabinets are coming Monday! Fingers crossed but I seem to be lucky.. I did order finger pull and gloss white.. very boring and standard!
@@AvengerIl well how did the install go?
great video my man
Thank you!
What about the worktops? I need advice on fitting them. And it was very confusing being in inches. My ikea cabinets are mainly 60 or 40 cms wide and 80cms high.
Sorry I never got back to this I hope you figured it out
what are the little what plastic blocks that goes on the back/bottom? just a spacer to match the top?
Exactly they are just spacers to make sure the cabinets sit level against the back wall
Great Video brother
Thank you!
The undersides of the hanging kabinets have holes in them. Does Ikea give covers for these?
No they l don’t… they do have an optional valance… but tbh based on the cabinet height you don’t even see the holes
Great video thanks! May I ask how much the cabinets were?
Thank you. All in they were around $2700 cad.
Do you install a new floor after or before the new cabinets?
Thank you for this video. Question what model are the cabinets? Sektion?
Curious, why didn't you put your floor down first? looks like subfloor below
I had some other work going on in the house as well and didn’t want to damage the floor. It’s a floating vinyl plank floor so it installed easily around the cabinets afterwards…. Technically also floating floors shouldn’t be “pinned” by the weight of the cabinets to allow for expansion and contraction
Which brand/model laser (self leveling I assume) are you using, and happy with?
Thank you!
Hey James I’m using a Dewalt at the moment and it works great so far. It is on the lower end though it was only about $100
Made it look easy!
Thanks!
nice instruction
Thank you!
What is the height for the railing in the upper cabinet? Assuming that is a 30” high cabinet
Start by taking the height of your finished counter top from the floor, then Add 18” for your backsplash then measure the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the clip the rail hooks onto and add that all together and that is the height of your rail from the floor. Good luck!
Looks good. What tool(s) are you using to cut the rails?
Thank you! I used a grinder with steel
Cutting disk. But you can use a regular hack saw as well
Very informative video. Do you know by any chance if IKEA sells cabinets for integrated appliances such dishwasher, washer and dryer? Thank you
Thank you. The definitely do sell built in appliances. I would check out there website and then use their kitchen planner tool. All of their options will be available there.
Do you happen to have the link for these specific cabinets from ikea? These are beautiful you did awesome!!
It's the METOD range and the fronts seem to be grey Bodbyn (with the wall cabinets having the glass version) :)
Michelle is right they are the grey bodbyn model. I posted a link but go on their site and check out their kitchen planning tool it’s great to design your own lay outs
The finished kitchen looks awesome, i will post a finished photo at some point
Thanks for watching!
@@mextella952 good eye!
Thank you for this video and all your tips!! I just wanted to ask you why you didn't install your flooring before installing the kitchen? Is it more convenient to do it later?
Thanks for watching. The only reason I did it after was the floor is designed to be a floating floor. I didn’t want the cabinet legs sitting on top of it and I didn’t want to work around the floor while installing the cabinets.
@@DIYDudes Thank you for your reply and explainations!
How did you cut the extra bit of the rail off after installing it on the wall? Which tool did you use?
I used a grinder with metal cutting 4.5” blade. Just make sure the sparks aren’t shooting at any thing that could get charred . I just put up some card board to protect. Good luck!
Do u use hammer and drill frequently?R u a carpenter?by profession?is it easy for a layman like me?
Hey Arti thanks for watching, I’m not a carpenter or tradesman. Just a lot of diy practice over the years. You could definitely tackle an ikea cabinet install yourself just make sure you understand the design and how everything goes together before you start. Ikea staff can help you with that while u do your design there, good luck!
So the cabinet above the sink, do you leave the bottom white? Is there a finishing panel for that? I think it looks great, but that would be distracting to me.
The underside is below eye level so you don’t even see it but you can also buy a valance strip as well to cover up the bottom. Check out our other ikea cabinet video. I do another set with the valance strip
@DIY Dudes
great work..!! very useful information..
by the way.
Do you have all list of the products that you've use in this video?
like what type of product IKEA and the accessories?
I'm also a beginner DIYer and trying to know this things.
Hoping for your kind reply on this comment
thank you and keep up the good work
Hi there these cabinets were the Bodbyn Grey finish…. Accessories were basic in this set up, only the maxim soft close drawers.
Anything else please let me know. Thank you!
Great work. Given you used quartz, any issues with the quartz being laid on the cabinets/island? Were the metal brackets along the front that don't sit flush a problem? Just wondering how these would sit level.
No it didn’t seem to be a problem, the counter guys installed everything in a few minutes and it all seemed to go in fine and sit nicely
Ikea makes a Fixa bracket for that. My quartz guy said they weren't needed but I put them in anyway.
Thanks for this video. Is this the Bobyn set?
Yes they are the grey bodbyn
@@DIYDudes dope. thanks!
Do these kitchen sets' countertops come pre-cut for a sink or are you supposed to cut the kitchentop yourself?
The ikea systems (and most other box stores) sell 6 or 8’ lengths which you would have to cut to length. I did a quartz counter top so i wasn’t Able to show that , maybe next time
I need a new kitchen .ied love some advice.
The best advice would be go to IKEAs website and play with their kitchen design tool. If you need some help with that call ikea and make an appointment to speak with a kitchen planner. They will help you out with everything you need and the design consulting is free if you buy the cabinets from them Good luck!
@DIY_DUDES do you have a list of tools needed for the installation?
Hey Paul basic tools included: drill, laser level, regular level, skill saw to trim the panels to length, wood clamps, screws and wall anchors if necessary and that was it. Thanks for watching
@@DIYDudes thanks so much!
did you have to cut the installation rails or did they already come right-sized? If you needed to cut them, what did you use?
I did have to cut a few of them to fit, I used a grinder with a steel cutting blade, you could use a simple hack saw as well
Thanks for watching!
@@nothingbutthebest3051 we ended up using a circular saw with a metal-cutting blade; worked really well. Thanks!
How did you lift and screw in the top cabinets? That seems difficult to do with just one person.
It actually isn’t that bad 100% of the weight of the upper cabinets is supported by the rail installed on the wall... the cabinets hook on to the rail and can slide back forth easily for adjustment.... two people would help but they are only maybe 50lbs so not to bad to lift up
Hey boss, how much you paid for this in IKEA? Great video btw
The cabinets themselves were around $2500. Canadian. They get expensive when you start Adding lots of drawers and interior upgrades
You didn't show how to install the work top. Hope you can make a video for that
In this case I had a quartz counter top installed, maybe on the next one
How much did it cost u just the cabinets thx
It was actually pretty reasonable.... $2700 cad for everything
So how much cheaper were these cabinets then the home depot ones? And estimated cost would be nice.
They are comparable in price to home. Depot.
Ikea has a lot of perks though… highly customizable, easy install., great design team in store and great design software online, high quality
This set up cost about. $2700cad/$2100 usd. (No countertop)
32" (inches) and 3/8s (of an inch) = 82 cm for metric system users
The eternal struggle
@@DIYDudes true, I've came across your video and helped me a lot installing my kitchen and I wished I had a converter so I did it myself for the future people who would watch the video.
How did you "shim" that island piece?
Hey John. I was able to use some hardwood shims and then screwed the peninsula down to the Center block that supports it.
The one thing I'm worried about is cutting the cover panels. For the island cabinets will any chipping along the cut cover panel edge be visible?
I was worried about that as well. Just be careful with the saw and use a sharp finish carpentry blade and you should be ok. Good luck!
One thing I did to ensure a clean edge is use a router and/or they make a jigsaw blade that has teeth half facing up and half down to give you a clean edge.
What happened to the gap between the uppers and the ceiling. It's gone all of a sudden.
The gap is still there there’s about a 1 foot gap between the cabinet top in the ceiling
you also placed the washers for metal railing wrong.. i mean it will not break or something like that but by rotaiting them 90 degrees you can raise or lower the track for evening it out :D
Thanks for watching!, I used my laser level and premarked every thing So no adjustments required. But yes you are right if you turn the washers the other way you can screw it in not fully tight and still adjust the rail abit
@@DIYDudes I used laser too but as mine is a wooden house and keeps on shaking the laser each time you breathe I cant trust any drawn lines😅
Beautiful job bro , may I ask you how much you paid for this cabinets?
The cabinets with no counter top were about $2150 usd.
Thanks for watching
Does the IKEA cabinets have strong new furniture smell?
No more than any new cabinets “wood”
Quick question. Do you remember how high you instaled the rail so that you get the desired height from the bottom of the cabinet to the counter top?
I don’t exactly remember and your situation maybe abit different. Start by considering the height of your finished counter should be 36 inches.
Deduct the thickness of the counter top then deduct the distance from the top of the cabinet to the top of the cabinet clip that hooks onto the rail.
The remainder will be the distance from the top of your finished floor to the top of the rail (make sure to add your floor thickness if the floors not installed yet)
@@DIYDudes Sorry i worded it wrong. I meant the height of installing the rail for the uppers, to get the desired height from the bottom of the UPPER cabinet to the counter. For example if you want 18inches between the bottom of the upper cabinet to the counter top, how high must the rail be installed for the upper cabinets? I guess that would be something to just measure by putting a rail on the back of the upper(while on the floor) and measure to the bottom of that upper box and add 18 inches?
Yes similar concept take the height of your finished counter top. Add 18” then measure the distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the clip the rail hooks onto and that is that height of your rail. Good luck!
@@matthewvs9336The manual for the rail has the listed heights to get what you need.
Great video!!
I was just wondering if I plan to install quartz or granite countertops, will the cabinets be strong enough
Do I need to put 2x4 studs underneath to better support the weight or are the rails and plastic legs strong enough.
Thanks
Thanks!. The counter tops are fine to put quartz or granite right on top, no additional bracing required
Good tips for the install. Are these cabinets solid wood or melamine coated particleboard?
Thanks! The cabinets are coated particle board, not solid wood. They are all 3/4” though compared to the 1/2” you typically see .
Good day Sir! Is IKEA a company? If so, does it deliver the readymade cabinets by ordering online?
Hey there. Yes Ikea is a company. Check them out on line.
You can order them online but you will have to assemble them yourself
Thanks for watching!
Did you install any toe kick board?
I did but it goes on after the flooring is installed. It just snaps into place.
Question about the cover panels by the stove and dishwasher. I am doing a white cabinet from ikea but didn’t plan on adding those because they will be covered. I see they are white still, did you not end up using them?
Hey there no I actually didn’t end up using the side panels by the stove because the stove does cover and I was worried it was going to be abit tight after I installed them. I will end up installing one at the dishwasher though
Generally if it’s not visible it’s not a big deal
If your face color is anything other than white you run the risk of visible white base showing at the seems and door reveal. And potential rubbing against appliances when opening and closing doors.
Do you know how to fit a Worktop to the integrated items
Do you mean installing just generic wood top? All the cabinets have top rails that you screw into the bottom of the counter top
Since the hinges don’t get screwed into place, are they still strong?
yes the hinges clamp into place and are very secure
The hinges also have a locking mechanism that be easily popped off if you want to remove the doors for cleaning or painting. Once you are ready to reinstall them they can be snapped easily back in place.
@@DIYDudes Not as secure as screws.
what happens if you have a wall that has piping for plumbing running along one of the walls? going to another kitchen? Do we have to build out the wall to accomdate the rails?
Either that or re run the plumbing ... you can core holes in the cabinets to run plumbing through as needed. Good luck!
Thanks dude(s)
Thanks for watching
Well you did it for us again. Going check out IKEA☺. Do you think backsplash can be covered with another tile?
instagram.com/p/CN_DkgRnbkL/?igshid=bp6jvs000hge the finished product looks great! Check out the Ike’s website and use their planning tool. Lots of great design ideas there.
And if heard that it can be done but I never have so not to sure on tiling over tile.
@@nothingbutthebest3051 IG completed look came out Awesome. Your gifted and have a great 👁👁's for style.
What wall screws did you use?
What is the music?
Looks good and you did a good install job. I would personally pass on these we just spent $20,000 on cabinets with a Cambria countertop, absolutely love them and there is not particle board or cardboard in them all wood.
Thank you, lots of people build a ply wood base for a more traditional base support for heavy cabinets… all wood is definitely nice. Just pricey
@@DIYDudes you are not joking.
That kitchen was under 3k for the cabinets and 1500 for a quartz countertop top with sink…. Canadian dollars. So not bad. You get what you pay for though I’m sure yours looks amazing
This was my initial concern, also. I saw videos of 3 to 5 year old IKEA installs in U.S., and have been in 10 year old IKEA kitchens in Sweden (with young children in the house): The cabinets still look great.
Compare that with my friend who just got an estimate for his custom 3/4 birch, including install at $23,000. And that was a bargain price compared to other estimates. My IKEA cabinets cost $7,000 with free 2 year financing, and I will install myself. Third party install would be $3,500.
Nice video but you skipped how you hanged the top cabinets
It’s actually super easy. The rail is the same steps as the bottom rail and then the cabinets literally just may hang off of it and screw to one another. Thanks for watching
How do you do vpf with these?
I would do it after the cabinet install. But the flooring up to the legs so it doesn’t bind
синие струбцины не очень хорошо стягивают(корпуса разбегаются)
лучше с воротком струбцина
I'm not sure if the Ikea cabinets had a large price increase over the last year but pricing them out vs Home Depot already assembled cabinets, not much of a saving from Ikea.
Possibly yes. I know they had shortages due to covid like everyone else… Ikea is comparable but lots of benefits in terms of customization.. even modification if you want to change things later
This is very hard for someone who has barely experience in crafting. I would pay for someone to install it from Ikea. Lol :) I am too busy with my job
It does take abit of skill and time
Thanks for watching
How do you hide the black legs when you put in your flooring
Hey Thomas. The cabinets come with a nice skirt board that has clips which easily snaps onto the legs to conceal the bottom
@@DIYDudes gotcha! Amazing video bro! Keep it up