Hi Andy. Today, as I am cleaning the Needle Bar Connecting Link, I notice that there is a piece of brown dense fuzz stuffed in the metal tube part of the connecting link. It goes as far as the oil hole on this part. I'm wondering if this is normal, and if I should put a new clean piece of well-oiled fuzz, perhaps felt, here when I reassemble and put the needle bar back in the machine. It makes the upside down oil hole on the connecting link make sense, since the oil would slowly travel from the fuzz through the hole and keep the take up lever connection oiled. I hope I've explained this clearly, and as always, I appreciate your advice.
You are right on the money, Carole! That felt pellet is called the oil wick. It is actually white in color. If you like you can pick it out with a needle, clean it with Krud Kutter, and put it back inside. Pushing it in about the area of the hole. Personally, I think it will last much longer than a piece of modern felt will, but replace it if you like. You can just leave it in there also and the new oil will flush it clean and remove any residual moisture. You have great instincts and attention to detail. Good catch and nicely done. Pinning your comment to the top for others to see. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks! I'm gonna go for reusing the little pellet. I've soaked it in Krud Kutter--wow, such a lot of brown oil oozing out of that teeny tiny piece of felt. It's almost white, but not quite; it's a light, light brown. Now I've got to keep it in a safe place until I'm ready to use it; it's so fly-away.
haha it is surprising how much oils in there and I keep it and other tiny parts like that I'm afraid to lose in an empty pill bottle and tape it to the leg of my work table
@@andytubesewing1953 oh my gosh. My other 401a did not have that when I cleaned it, now I get to take it apart and put some in it🤦♀️. This one does. I almost threw it out. I thought it was built up guck😂🤣, this beauty was so full of guck. Thank goodness I re-read through the comments. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
When you take the time to leave such a nice comment, it really helps me justify the time and effort spent in a video like this. I really appreciate the kind words 🙏
Thanks for this 403A series. I just purchased one from goodwill and find that it has an on again - off again swing needle return problem while zig zaging. My guess is that it is just gummed up in a place that I haven't gotten to clean yet. The second problem is one you had addressed in your video of a 401 where there was a "hard spot" in turning the hand wheel. A pinion gear tightness problem if I am remembering correctly. I'm looking forward to your whole series on this 403. Great information for everyone!
I'm glad you found my channel, Dennis. "Gummed up" is a good description of many vintage machines. I find a good cleaning clears up many problems, so I usually strip down the machine and wash it. After reassembly, I can adjust most problems away. BTW, you picked a great ZZ machine to buy, IMO. Thanks for the comment.
Hello, love your videos and the detail. really helps in the understanding of the amazing workmanship and engineering. Thank you! My 401a needed a side-to side adjustment of the needle which was easily fixed but the needle is also pushing forward towards the front of the machine, slightly too close to the plate which gives a guillotine effect on the thread as it passes through the needle plate. tried another needle with the same issue so the needle is not the problem, any tips? thank you!
There are a few adjustments that can be made to the needle bar. One of them is adjusting from the front to the back, like centering the needle in the hole of the needle plate. You can find the directions for this adjustment on Pg. 142 of the Service Manual for Singer 401 Class Machines (401A, 403A, 404). The manual can be downloaded for free in PDF format from this Link at Sewing Dude: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Thanks for keeping the machine in service, Thomas, and for watching my channel.
Hello Andy. I have a singer 1507 model sewing machine, and I'm having lots of trouble. The timing was off. First i thought the problem was with the needle bar, so i slide it up/down. But I ending up fixing the timing by playing with the hook on the bottom. Now my problem is that the needle bar doesn't have any timing marks, and i can't figure out what height it's supposed to be at. I brought the needle bar to the lowest position by turning the hand wheel toward me. and i tried adjusting the needle bar to different heights, but the fabric still doesn't feed and the it looks like it's stitching in one spot. before when the timing was off, and before i adjusted the needle bar, the fabric was still feeding. so i know i caused this problem by messing with the needle bar height. it's a inexpensive machine, but i've had it since i was a teenager and it was a gift from my grandmother. would you please be able to give me any advice?
Your machine is from 2005, about 30 years newer than what I work on so I have no experience with it. No place I know of sells the Service Manual for your model. Before the days of timing marks, you could set the height of the needle bar and the needle to hook timing at the same time. With the needle bar on the way UP, meaning it hit bottom and starts up, with the hook directly behind the needle, the eye of the needle should be about 1/16" BELOW the hook point. That's the correct height of the needle. You can see why right? As the needle starts back up the fabric drags on the thread and forms a tiny loop in the needle thread just above the eye of the needle. The hook point must arrive behind the needle at that moment so it can "hook" the thread loop. The needle bar MUST be on the upward stroke, the hook point MUST be directly behind the needle and set the needle height so the eye of the needle is 1/16" below hook point. The 1/16" mark is what most of the Singer machines were set at but think of it as approximate. What if your newer machine needs to be a tiny, tiny bit higher or lower? That's what makes you the repair tech, finding what works for your particular machine.
@@samallen2135 That's a very good way to approach it, Sam. It will be patiently waiting for you to return, and chances are you'll have better progress. The times I broke things on machines was when I was frustrated and/or tired. Good Luck.
Andy hope u dont mind me asking would you do video on the electrics of a 129k singer sewing machine , i brought one off a car boot but the electrics are messed up. its the one that is internal on the side , with a joining block with wires that are yellow and black leading to foot petal and light. i have managed to repair my 127 singer from your fabulous video u did on the gears, please forgive me if this isn't possible, but watch all your videos as i think its fascinating watching the workings of the machine, take care Bernie
Hi, Bernie. So I can't find any records, documents or pictures of a Singer Model 129K. I'm not sure the meaning of "internal on the side"; is that below the handwheel then? Is there a 3-prong terminal? I'll make a WAG here (Wild Ass Guess) that you may have something like in this diagram: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf If that did not help then you can email my channel at andytube53@gmail.com and send me some pictures. If I recognize that the wiring is similar to a different Singer model then I could help you with a wiring diagram perhaps. Waiting to hear from you then ...
@@andytubesewing1953 hi Andy thank you so much for reply, i did look at the images you sent link to, but its not the one, the `29k singer has every thing internal , the light fitting is inside at top front, the electrics, the wires are at the bottom under the turn wheel , fitted into a metal cover , once you take that off, the wires are in plastic block cover and the wires are then in which looks like an old wire joiner like a square with 3 holes on either side of it, but the wires in there are hanging out , so im having trouble finding which wire joins with the certain wires opposite. there are no pins like in the 128k. im sorry this is so long winded lol but im dylexic and have trouble sounding english lol. i do appreciate your time in this.i dont have a phone to send photos, or i would of done that 1st, bless your heart tho for trying help me , take care Bernie
Here is the instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20329%20and%20329K%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf Here is my playlist to model 327K the ZZ sister to your 329K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt (18 videos) Here is the playlist for model 337K the cousin to your machine: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5 (31 videos) Here is the link for the lowest price to buy the SERVICE MANUAL for 327K/328K (there is no separate one for 329K): manualsoncd.com/product/singer-327k-328k-sewing-machine-service-manual/ Older service manuals like this one include a wiring diagram. Good Luck.
I am working on a Singer 600e. I stumbled across a RUclips video (can't find it now and manual doesn't show) that showed a couple of set screws on the outside back for adjusting the left and right position of the needle. I think we have the needle on dead center, but there is a small amount of play in the needle bar. The machine did sew a seam before we worked on the left and right. It is a brand new needle. However, the needle needs to move to the center rather than at the front of the throat plate. Is it same to assume there is no set screw for such an adjustment? Is this a bent needle bar problem, or is there somewhere else to look?
Play in the needle bar on this type of machine may be a problem with the Ball Bushings for the needle bar. There is an upper and lower ball bushing. In rare cases, they can be worn enough to cause play in the needle, but it is often from someone inexperienced trying to adjust the needle bar. You can buy the 47-page Service Manual for your machine for $8.99 and download the PDF here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-600-603-sewing-machine-service-manual/ Pages 7 to 9 have all the needle bar adjustments. The manual has remove, replace, and adjust instructions for almost every single part of the machine. I buy a SM for most machines I work on. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Good Evening Andy, it's me again. I removed, cleaned and replaced the presser bar and the needle bar assembly, the tension lever and the piece that pushes on the little bar sticking out the tension inside. Sorry can't think of the name at the moment. Although neither bar seemed bent at all, my needles won't line up correctly. If i'm at center it shows near the right, if i'm left or right it adjusts both ways without an issue as long as i'm on strait stitch. If I try to do anything else it swings way left or right and both needles will hit the throat plate. Do I need to watch your video on the needle bar driving arm to repair that? Thank you so much for all the help.
"needles" "both needles" It's helpful to see what your machine is doing. You can post some pictures and videos to your RUclips Channel, or work thru email at andytube53@gmail.com.
@@andytubesewing1953 Good Morning Andy. Hope your doing well today and I think i'll at least give you a chuckle from my error. So, I finally was able to start messing with it again and here is what I found to have done wrong. Whew! I thought I screwed up putting it back together because the double needle option zig zag was hitting the foot on left and right... Ummm.... You CAN'T zig zag with two needles. Lol So I didn't mess up, the needle bar isn't bent and everything is working beautifully so far. I only used the "0" cam for zig zag and tried a few stitches in different lengths and bites and did some straight stitching too. My 13 year old granddaughter was impressed with the photo's of this machine's journey so far. Thank you again Andy.
@@donnasmith2720 Well, it's good you found the "problem". A week ago I wondered about your settings when you said "both needles". FYI, you can sew ZZ with double needles. The needle bar is set to the Left position, and you can only use up to width 3 as you found out. You can even double-needle sew using the pattern or fashion cams, as long as you use a width of 3 or less. Here is a video demonstration of double/twin needle sewing on a slant machine: ruclips.net/video/vcat954C4UA/видео.html The double-needle instructions are shown on page 40 of the instruction manual which can be downloaded free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403 I'm glad the machine is working well for you. Nicely done
I have been struggling with sewing some patio furniture covers because the thread keeps shredding. Using a polyester outdoor thread and 16 needs and finally figured out the needle is brushing against the throat plate ever so slightly and causing the thread to shred. I took apart the machine to check the needle bar and sure enough it is ever so slightly bent, probably just enough to cause the thread to rub and shred. Now what? I can't find a replacement online. Any suggestions? Thank you for your great videos!
You do not say otherwise, so I'm assuming you have a Singer Model 403A. The part number for your needle bar is 172033. That should be shown on your needle bar. No one makes new needle bars for the slant-o-matics which means you must find a used one and hope it is not bent. Your best bet is eBay. There are some sellers who "part out" machines. Sometimes you get lucky and can just buy the needle bar itself. Sometimes you have to buy a small "parts lot" of associated parts. Here is some good news (READ THIS) The same needle bar was used on the model 401A, and there are many more of that model. In fact, on a quick search of eBay, I found 3 in about 2 minutes of looking. Here is one of them: www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Model-401A-Choose-Your-Parts-Free-Ship-Over-25/153374343655?hash=item23b5d2c1e7:m:maZgc5HEf195L6HF-y-eqVw and another one: www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Singer-Sewing-Machine-401A-Needle-Bar-Clamp/233314308779?hash=item36529dd2ab:g:g4oAAOSwh7ZdVcPr:sc:USPSFirstClass!85282!US!-1 Remember, caveat emptor, it's your responsibility to see if the seller allows returns if something is wrong with the new one. Do not buy a needle bar from a Model 404, the brother to the 401A & 403A models. It is actually a more heavy-duty needle bar with a different part number ( 179007 ) and may not work properly on your machine. Thanks for watching Andy Tube and good luck.
@@marierossen2895 You're welcome Marie I think one of these should work for you and I wish you all the best and I thank you again for watching my channel
@@andytubesewing1953 One more question. I have been servicing and sewing with the machine and I didn't have this problem initially but never removed the needle bar. At one point I was sewing and the machine jammed. I pushed and pulled up and down on the needle bar to get it back through the fabric. Could I have bent it? If not, how does a needle bar get bent? I assume it isn't easy to do as it doesn't seem like a common problem and I certainly can't bend it back! Trying to avoid this to happening again?
@@marierossen2895 Yes, that could cause it. Remember the top 1/2 or so of the bar is hollow too. I bent a needle bar once while sewing at full speed and I was "helping" the fabric through and bent the needle back causing a needle strike on the needle plate. I was using a heavy-duty size 18 needle and sewing nylon belt to leather belt. After I put in a new needle it did not sew correctly at all and started scraping the needle on the up & down movement. I pulled out the needle bar and rolled it on a flat counter and could tell I bent it. I replace it. I have had a couple viewers tell me they fixed the bar by wrapping in heavy fabric, like denim, and putting it in a Vice to flatten it. They marked the end of the bar to know how to set it up in the vice and said it worked for them. I just buy a used needle bar b/c that is cheaper than a vice, hehe. If you have not ordered your new one maybe you know someone with a vice? Best of luck to you.
So I feel like I must’ve missed something. I can set the height, but then how to I reach the screw since when it’s bottomed out I can’t reach it. If I raise it then the bar slips.
Yes, you missed it twice, Cassie. Because of the side location of the clamping set screw you need to raise the NB up and loosen the set screw, then retighten it JUST ENOUGH to hold the NB from slipping. The screw must be loose enough to allow manipulation of the NB so when you lower the bar and set the height and alignment you can twist and move it up or down a little to get the settings. Now that you have the height and alignment set, you SLOWLY raise the bar back up to a height that allows you to access the screw from the side and to a complete tightening for a permanent hold. I discuss the screw adjustment at @13:55 and mention it again later. Then starting at about @28:45 I show slowly raising the bar and permanently tightening the screw. This is my method from trial and error as there are no instructions about the screw in the Service Manual, but just says loosen then tighten the screw. Depending on the particular model 403A I was working on I had to "fiddle" around with the screw to find the point of tightening it took to stop the bar from just slipping but still allowed me to raise and lower the bar to do the settings.
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry. Should’ve tried that before I asked. I tried it before you even replied and of course it worked. Lol, just took a little fiddling.
Hi, Andy. I cannot get move or remove the needle bar. I sprayed krud kutter on it and it still won't move. Should I let it sit over night? It has been about 4 hours already.
You mean you are trying to remove the needle bar itself, after taking out the clamping screw? Penetrating oil can help, like WD40. You can also warm the clamp area with a hairdryer. If there is not any rust it should loosen up. I have had NB or presser bar stuck so bad that I soaked a rag or cotton balls or makeup remover pads with full strength Krud Kutter and left it wrapped overnight. Don't force it out as you can bend the needle bar.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for your quick reply, I will try the hair dryer, only because i can't find the WD40. Yes, I am trying to remove it to clean, plus the top line you show in the video is not visible. My son in-law bought me this machine, it is very dirty but otherwise looks very nice. I seen a few issues on my machine that I seen in your first video, on what to look for when buying this type of machine. I am very thankful I have found your videos. Thanks again, you might hear from me again.
@@elainemichell883 okay Elaine that sounds good Early on I found out that patience is required with some of the screws and bolts when needed to be removed there's other parts of the machine you can work on if you haven't already like taking off the light or the hand wheel things like that some of the non sewing machine type oils had additives that dry up very hard like old varnish and it can take a while to soften them up or part removal you know where to find me if you have any other questions as you go and thank you for saving that machine you will find it rewarding and you'll be happy with the results
Hey! This is the 3rd time you've made this comment. I'm trying to help, but could you please read my replies when you leave a comment? Thanks ever so much. It COULD be the NB, but it could be the hook shaft or any other shaft that is frozen and stuck with dried oil. All the parts move together so when any one part is stuck none of the parts will move. Here is my reply to your comment from yesterday: """ OK, this comment is more clear than your other one about the handwheel. A machine that has sat idle for years/decades is often frozen. This is usually due to dried oil on the needle bar bushing and/or the shaft bushings. The dried oil is like varnish or glue. Do thorough and complete oiling of the machine (skip the grease part) and heat the bushing areas with a hairdryer. This can soften the old oil and let the new oil penetrate. You can follow this video and just do the parts where I use the bottle of oil. You can also see where to oil in the instruction manual which is free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403a So oil it well, heat it well. """ Good Luck.
Hi Mary. If you are asking me, you SHOULD give the machine to charity and find a nice model 403A like in the video. 😊I know. What you COULD do is buy a $4 replacement Gib, part number 37943 www.sewingpartsonline.com/needle-bar-gib-singer-37943.aspx Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
This needle bar is gonna drive me nuts! I’ve put so much wd 40 on it I’m surprised the can isn’t empty. Hair dryer- still won’t come off. Krud kutter still won’t come off!! 😡 It’s stuck to that pin!!
Nevermind, husband got it for me. Now for the pesky stuck screws on the feed dogs and the thread take up. . . . . I swear almost everything on this machine is stuck like super glue.
Reinstalling that screw with the cupped washer and thread guide into the needle clamp is going to be the death of me! I don’t have an expanding screwdriver (you can bet I ordered one from Amazon though). Why does it have to be so fiddly?! Ugh!
You can do it! Machine restoration teaches patience, doesn't it? If we survive the high blood pressure 😉 I also have a $4 magnetizer for screwdrivers I have used and it can help, but not as good as those spring-bit screwdrivers.
OOPS!, haha, you are not the first. You can make a little pellet from a felt spool pad or scrap of fleece even, Keep it well oiled until then and you'll be fine. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Would a felt pad used for the thread to sit on be thick enough for the plug? Also, should I place it in the tube and set it on the hole on the bottom, or just before the hole? That is the end coming from the machine, not the needle bar.
@@jenniferbowdoin4197 Yes, I said that in my first reply to you. That is what I use, a small piece cut from an old woolen felt pad. I cut it in an oval shape and position it over the hole. My understanding is it stored some oil and prevented extra oil from just running out of the hole and the parts going dry. Those parts get lots of metal-on-metal movement and the pad was made to help them stay oiled.
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry, I'm a notorious skim reader. Thanks again for everything. I've been working on a 401A bought from GoodWill, using all the videos for the 403 and 401 that you have generously shared with all. I've got it almost back together again and can't wait to see how I did!
Hi Andy. Today, as I am cleaning the Needle Bar Connecting Link, I notice that there is a piece of brown dense fuzz stuffed in the metal tube part of the connecting link. It goes as far as the oil hole on this part. I'm wondering if this is normal, and if I should put a new clean piece of well-oiled fuzz, perhaps felt, here when I reassemble and put the needle bar back in the machine. It makes the upside down oil hole on the connecting link make sense, since the oil would slowly travel from the fuzz through the hole and keep the take up lever connection oiled.
I hope I've explained this clearly, and as always, I appreciate your advice.
You are right on the money, Carole! That felt pellet is called the oil wick. It is actually white in color. If you like you can pick it out with a needle, clean it with Krud Kutter, and put it back inside. Pushing it in about the area of the hole. Personally, I think it will last much longer than a piece of modern felt will, but replace it if you like. You can just leave it in there also and the new oil will flush it clean and remove any residual moisture. You have great instincts and attention to detail. Good catch and nicely done. Pinning your comment to the top for others to see. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks! I'm gonna go for reusing the little pellet. I've soaked it in Krud Kutter--wow, such a lot of brown oil oozing out of that teeny tiny piece of felt. It's almost white, but not quite; it's a light, light brown. Now I've got to keep it in a safe place until I'm ready to use it; it's so fly-away.
haha it is surprising how much oils in there and I keep it and other tiny parts like that I'm afraid to lose in an empty pill bottle and tape it to the leg of my work table
@@andytubesewing1953 oh my gosh. My other 401a did not have that when I cleaned it, now I get to take it apart and put some in it🤦♀️.
This one does. I almost threw it out. I thought it was built up guck😂🤣, this beauty was so full of guck. Thank goodness I re-read through the comments. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
What an awesome observation that Carole made… this really helped more byoo
Andy your videos are so precious. I am so fortunate to have found your channel ❤❤❤
When you take the time to leave such a nice comment, it really helps me justify the time and effort spent in a video like this. I really appreciate the kind words 🙏
Thanks for this 403A series. I just purchased one from goodwill and find that it has an on again - off again swing needle return problem while zig zaging. My guess is that it is just gummed up in a place that I haven't gotten to clean yet. The second problem is one you had addressed in your video of a 401 where there was a "hard spot" in turning the hand wheel. A pinion gear tightness problem if I am remembering correctly. I'm looking forward to your whole series on this 403. Great information for everyone!
I'm glad you found my channel, Dennis. "Gummed up" is a good description of many vintage machines. I find a good cleaning clears up many problems, so I usually strip down the machine and wash it. After reassembly, I can adjust most problems away. BTW, you picked a great ZZ machine to buy, IMO. Thanks for the comment.
I love your videos, they are SO informative, thank you!!
Thank you 🙏
You're teaching me all kind of thing....Good teacher
Thanks. 500+ videos I hope there is something for everyone to learn a little bit.
Hello, love your videos and the detail. really helps in the understanding of the amazing workmanship and engineering. Thank you! My 401a needed a side-to side adjustment of the needle which was easily fixed but the needle is also pushing forward towards the front of the machine, slightly too close to the plate which gives a guillotine effect on the thread as it passes through the needle plate. tried another needle with the same issue so the needle is not the problem, any tips? thank you!
There are a few adjustments that can be made to the needle bar. One of them is adjusting from the front to the back, like centering the needle in the hole of the needle plate. You can find the directions for this adjustment on Pg. 142 of the Service Manual for Singer 401 Class Machines (401A, 403A, 404). The manual can be downloaded for free in PDF format from this Link at Sewing Dude: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Thanks for keeping the machine in service, Thomas, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much! got it back to normal :)
@@thomasbranconier Hey, that was easy! Nicely done 👍
Hello Andy. I have a singer 1507 model sewing machine, and I'm having lots of trouble. The timing was off. First i thought the problem was with the needle bar, so i slide it up/down. But I ending up fixing the timing by playing with the hook on the bottom. Now my problem is that the needle bar doesn't have any timing marks, and i can't figure out what height it's supposed to be at. I brought the needle bar to the lowest position by turning the hand wheel toward me. and i tried adjusting the needle bar to different heights, but the fabric still doesn't feed and the it looks like it's stitching in one spot. before when the timing was off, and before i adjusted the needle bar, the fabric was still feeding. so i know i caused this problem by messing with the needle bar height. it's a inexpensive machine, but i've had it since i was a teenager and it was a gift from my grandmother. would you please be able to give me any advice?
Your machine is from 2005, about 30 years newer than what I work on so I have no experience with it. No place I know of sells the Service Manual for your model. Before the days of timing marks, you could set the height of the needle bar and the needle to hook timing at the same time. With the needle bar on the way UP, meaning it hit bottom and starts up, with the hook directly behind the needle, the eye of the needle should be about 1/16" BELOW the hook point. That's the correct height of the needle. You can see why right? As the needle starts back up the fabric drags on the thread and forms a tiny loop in the needle thread just above the eye of the needle. The hook point must arrive behind the needle at that moment so it can "hook" the thread loop. The needle bar MUST be on the upward stroke, the hook point MUST be directly behind the needle and set the needle height so the eye of the needle is 1/16" below hook point. The 1/16" mark is what most of the Singer machines were set at but think of it as approximate. What if your newer machine needs to be a tiny, tiny bit higher or lower? That's what makes you the repair tech, finding what works for your particular machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I am going to take a break and try again when I'm re-energized.
@@samallen2135 That's a very good way to approach it, Sam. It will be patiently waiting for you to return, and chances are you'll have better progress. The times I broke things on machines was when I was frustrated and/or tired. Good Luck.
Andy hope u dont mind me asking would you do video on the electrics of a 129k singer sewing machine , i brought one off a car boot but the electrics are messed up. its the one that is internal on the side , with a joining block with wires that are yellow and black leading to foot petal and light. i have managed to repair my 127 singer from your fabulous video u did on the gears, please forgive me if this isn't possible, but watch all your videos as i think its fascinating watching the workings of the machine, take care Bernie
Hi, Bernie. So I can't find any records, documents or pictures of a Singer Model 129K. I'm not sure the meaning of "internal on the side"; is that below the handwheel then? Is there a 3-prong terminal? I'll make a WAG here (Wild Ass Guess) that you may have something like in this diagram: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf
If that did not help then you can email my channel at andytube53@gmail.com and send me some pictures. If I recognize that the wiring is similar to a different Singer model then I could help you with a wiring diagram perhaps. Waiting to hear from you then ...
@@andytubesewing1953 hi Andy thank you so much for reply, i did look at the images you sent link to, but its not the one, the `29k singer has every thing internal , the light fitting is inside at top front, the electrics, the wires are at the bottom under the turn wheel , fitted into a metal cover , once you take that off, the wires are in plastic block cover and the wires are then in which looks like an old wire joiner like a square with 3 holes on either side of it, but the wires in there are hanging out , so im having trouble finding which wire joins with the certain wires opposite. there are no pins like in the 128k. im sorry this is so long winded lol but im dylexic and have trouble sounding english lol. i do appreciate your time in this.i dont have a phone to send photos, or i would of done that 1st, bless your heart tho for trying help me , take care Bernie
Sorry I could not help you with this model. No records of it; no pictures of it.
@@andytubesewing1953 haha Andy no wonder you couldnt help me its a darn 329k singer what a plonker i am any links on that singer pretty please :)
Here is the instruction manual: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/SINGER%20329%20and%20329K%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf
Here is my playlist to model 327K the ZZ sister to your 329K:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt (18 videos)
Here is the playlist for model 337K the cousin to your machine:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5 (31 videos)
Here is the link for the lowest price to buy the SERVICE MANUAL for 327K/328K (there is no separate one for 329K):
manualsoncd.com/product/singer-327k-328k-sewing-machine-service-manual/
Older service manuals like this one include a wiring diagram.
Good Luck.
I am working on a Singer 600e. I stumbled across a RUclips video (can't find it now and manual doesn't show) that showed a couple of set screws on the outside back for adjusting the left and right position of the needle. I think we have the needle on dead center, but there is a small amount of play in the needle bar. The machine did sew a seam before we worked on the left and right. It is a brand new needle. However, the needle needs to move to the center rather than at the front of the throat plate. Is it same to assume there is no set screw for such an adjustment? Is this a bent needle bar problem, or is there somewhere else to look?
Play in the needle bar on this type of machine may be a problem with the Ball Bushings for the needle bar. There is an upper and lower ball bushing. In rare cases, they can be worn enough to cause play in the needle, but it is often from someone inexperienced trying to adjust the needle bar. You can buy the 47-page Service Manual for your machine for $8.99 and download the PDF here:
manualsoncd.com/product/singer-600-603-sewing-machine-service-manual/ Pages 7 to 9 have all the needle bar adjustments. The manual has remove, replace, and adjust instructions for almost every single part of the machine. I buy a SM for most machines I work on. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Good Evening Andy, it's me again. I removed, cleaned and replaced the presser bar and the needle bar assembly, the tension lever and the piece that pushes on the little bar sticking out the tension inside. Sorry can't think of the name at the moment. Although neither bar seemed bent at all, my needles won't line up correctly. If i'm at center it shows near the right, if i'm left or right it adjusts both ways without an issue as long as i'm on strait stitch. If I try to do anything else it swings way left or right and both needles will hit the throat plate. Do I need to watch your video on the needle bar driving arm to repair that? Thank you so much for all the help.
"needles" "both needles" It's helpful to see what your machine is doing. You can post some pictures and videos to your RUclips Channel, or work thru email at andytube53@gmail.com.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy, sorry it's taken me so long to respond. Life's been hectic and as soon as I can I will surely do that. Thank you
@@donnasmith2720 no worries.
@@andytubesewing1953 Good Morning Andy. Hope your doing well today and I think i'll at least give you a chuckle from my error. So, I finally was able to start messing with it again and here is what I found to have done wrong.
Whew! I thought I screwed up putting it back together because the double needle option zig zag was hitting the foot on left and right... Ummm.... You CAN'T zig zag with two needles. Lol
So I didn't mess up, the needle bar isn't bent and everything is working beautifully so far. I only used the "0" cam for zig zag and tried a few stitches in different lengths and bites and did some straight stitching too. My 13 year old granddaughter was impressed with the photo's of this machine's journey so far.
Thank you again Andy.
@@donnasmith2720 Well, it's good you found the "problem". A week ago I wondered about your settings when you said "both needles". FYI, you can sew ZZ with double needles. The needle bar is set to the Left position, and you can only use up to width 3 as you found out. You can even double-needle sew using the pattern or fashion cams, as long as you use a width of 3 or less. Here is a video demonstration of double/twin needle sewing on a slant machine: ruclips.net/video/vcat954C4UA/видео.html The double-needle instructions are shown on page 40 of the instruction manual which can be downloaded free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403 I'm glad the machine is working well for you. Nicely done
I have been struggling with sewing some patio furniture covers because the thread keeps shredding. Using a polyester outdoor thread and 16 needs and finally figured out the needle is brushing against the throat plate ever so slightly and causing the thread to shred. I took apart the machine to check the needle bar and sure enough it is ever so slightly bent, probably just enough to cause the thread to rub and shred. Now what? I can't find a replacement online. Any suggestions? Thank you for your great videos!
You do not say otherwise, so I'm assuming you have a Singer Model 403A. The part number for your needle bar is 172033. That should be shown on your needle bar. No one makes new needle bars for the slant-o-matics which means you must find a used one and hope it is not bent. Your best bet is eBay. There are some sellers who "part out" machines. Sometimes you get lucky and can just buy the needle bar itself. Sometimes you have to buy a small "parts lot" of associated parts. Here is some good news (READ THIS) The same needle bar was used on the model 401A, and there are many more of that model. In fact, on a quick search of eBay, I found 3 in about 2 minutes of looking. Here is one of them: www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Model-401A-Choose-Your-Parts-Free-Ship-Over-25/153374343655?hash=item23b5d2c1e7:m:maZgc5HEf195L6HF-y-eqVw
and another one: www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Singer-Sewing-Machine-401A-Needle-Bar-Clamp/233314308779?hash=item36529dd2ab:g:g4oAAOSwh7ZdVcPr:sc:USPSFirstClass!85282!US!-1
Remember, caveat emptor, it's your responsibility to see if the seller allows returns if something is wrong with the new one.
Do not buy a needle bar from a Model 404, the brother to the 401A & 403A models. It is actually a more heavy-duty needle bar with a different part number ( 179007 ) and may not work properly on your machine. Thanks for watching Andy Tube and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for that info. I will go look at those right now! And yes, I have a 403A.
@@marierossen2895 You're welcome Marie I think one of these should work for you and I wish you all the best and I thank you again for watching my channel
@@andytubesewing1953 One more question. I have been servicing and sewing with the machine and I didn't have this problem initially but never removed the needle bar. At one point I was sewing and the machine jammed. I pushed and pulled up and down on the needle bar to get it back through the fabric. Could I have bent it? If not, how does a needle bar get bent? I assume it isn't easy to do as it doesn't seem like a common problem and I certainly can't bend it back! Trying to avoid this to happening again?
@@marierossen2895 Yes, that could cause it. Remember the top 1/2 or so of the bar is hollow too. I bent a needle bar once while sewing at full speed and I was "helping" the fabric through and bent the needle back causing a needle strike on the needle plate. I was using a heavy-duty size 18 needle and sewing nylon belt to leather belt. After I put in a new needle it did not sew correctly at all and started scraping the needle on the up & down movement. I pulled out the needle bar and rolled it on a flat counter and could tell I bent it. I replace it. I have had a couple viewers tell me they fixed the bar by wrapping in heavy fabric, like denim, and putting it in a Vice to flatten it. They marked the end of the bar to know how to set it up in the vice and said it worked for them. I just buy a used needle bar b/c that is cheaper than a vice, hehe. If you have not ordered your new one maybe you know someone with a vice? Best of luck to you.
So I feel like I must’ve missed something. I can set the height, but then how to I reach the screw since when it’s bottomed out I can’t reach it. If I raise it then the bar slips.
Yes, you missed it twice, Cassie. Because of the side location of the clamping set screw you need to raise the NB up and loosen the set screw, then retighten it JUST ENOUGH to hold the NB from slipping. The screw must be loose enough to allow manipulation of the NB so when you lower the bar and set the height and alignment you can twist and move it up or down a little to get the settings. Now that you have the height and alignment set, you SLOWLY raise the bar back up to a height that allows you to access the screw from the side and to a complete tightening for a permanent hold. I discuss the screw adjustment at @13:55 and mention it again later. Then starting at about @28:45 I show slowly raising the bar and permanently tightening the screw. This is my method from trial and error as there are no instructions about the screw in the Service Manual, but just says loosen then tighten the screw. Depending on the particular model 403A I was working on I had to "fiddle" around with the screw to find the point of tightening it took to stop the bar from just slipping but still allowed me to raise and lower the bar to do the settings.
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry. Should’ve tried that before I asked. I tried it before you even replied and of course it worked. Lol, just took a little fiddling.
@@cassiestephens7381 I'm glad you worked it out.
Hi, Andy. I cannot get move or remove the needle bar. I sprayed krud kutter on it and it still won't move. Should I let it sit over night? It has been about 4 hours already.
You mean you are trying to remove the needle bar itself, after taking out the clamping screw? Penetrating oil can help, like WD40. You can also warm the clamp area with a hairdryer. If there is not any rust it should loosen up. I have had NB or presser bar stuck so bad that I soaked a rag or cotton balls or makeup remover pads with full strength Krud Kutter and left it wrapped overnight. Don't force it out as you can bend the needle bar.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for your quick reply, I will try the hair dryer, only because i can't find the WD40. Yes, I am trying to remove it to clean, plus the top line you show in the video is not visible. My son in-law bought me this machine, it is very dirty but otherwise looks very nice. I seen a few issues on my machine that I seen in your first video, on what to look for when buying this type of machine. I am very thankful I have found your videos. Thanks again, you might hear from me again.
@@elainemichell883 okay Elaine that sounds good Early on I found out that patience is required with some of the screws and bolts when needed to be removed there's other parts of the machine you can work on if you haven't already like taking off the light or the hand wheel things like that some of the non sewing machine type oils had additives that dry up very hard like old varnish and it can take a while to soften them up or part removal you know where to find me if you have any other questions as you go and thank you for saving that machine you will find it rewarding and you'll be happy with the results
Mine is stuck.. turn wheel needle bar will not move. Bobbin does not move bobbin winder moves. Handwheel is tight.
Hey! This is the 3rd time you've made this comment. I'm trying to help, but could you please read my replies when you leave a comment? Thanks ever so much. It COULD be the NB, but it could be the hook shaft or any other shaft that is frozen and stuck with dried oil. All the parts move together so when any one part is stuck none of the parts will move. Here is my reply to your comment from yesterday: """ OK, this comment is more clear than your other one about the handwheel. A machine that has sat idle for years/decades is often frozen. This is usually due to dried oil on the needle bar bushing and/or the shaft bushings. The dried oil is like varnish or glue. Do thorough and complete oiling of the machine (skip the grease part) and heat the bushing areas with a hairdryer. This can soften the old oil and let the new oil penetrate. You can follow this video and just do the parts where I use the bottle of oil. You can also see where to oil in the instruction manual which is free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403a
So oil it well, heat it well. """ Good Luck.
What should I do if I loose the gib of singer 6125
Hi Mary. If you are asking me, you SHOULD give the machine to charity and find a nice model 403A like in the video. 😊I know.
What you COULD do is buy a $4 replacement Gib, part number 37943 www.sewingpartsonline.com/needle-bar-gib-singer-37943.aspx Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
This needle bar is gonna drive me nuts! I’ve put so much wd 40 on it I’m surprised the can isn’t empty. Hair dryer- still won’t come off. Krud kutter still won’t come off!! 😡 It’s stuck to that pin!!
Nevermind, husband got it for me. Now for the pesky stuck screws on the feed dogs and the thread take up. . . . . I swear almost everything on this machine is stuck like super glue.
good fine, than you
welcome. Thanks for commenting.
De nada. Gracias por tu comentario
Reinstalling that screw with the cupped washer and thread guide into the needle clamp is going to be the death of me! I don’t have an expanding screwdriver (you can bet I ordered one from Amazon though). Why does it have to be so fiddly?! Ugh!
You can do it! Machine restoration teaches patience, doesn't it? If we survive the high blood pressure 😉 I also have a $4 magnetizer for screwdrivers I have used and it can help, but not as good as those spring-bit screwdrivers.
Andy Tube My husband helped me. Turns out I needed a third hand. Between the two of us, we met with success. Andy, this video is just excellent.
@@athertonca Can't beat a spouse that helps! Congrats.
OMG, I did not read through the comments, I saw that and thought is was old, dirty fuzz and tossed it. OOPS!
OOPS!, haha, you are not the first. You can make a little pellet from a felt spool pad or scrap of fleece even, Keep it well oiled until then and you'll be fine. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Would a felt pad used for the thread to sit on be thick enough for the plug? Also, should I place it in the tube and set it on the hole on the bottom, or just before the hole? That is the end coming from the machine, not the needle bar.
@@jenniferbowdoin4197 Yes, I said that in my first reply to you. That is what I use, a small piece cut from an old woolen felt pad. I cut it in an oval shape and position it over the hole. My understanding is it stored some oil and prevented extra oil from just running out of the hole and the parts going dry. Those parts get lots of metal-on-metal movement and the pad was made to help them stay oiled.
@@andytubesewing1953 sorry, I'm a notorious skim reader. Thanks again for everything. I've been working on a 401A bought from GoodWill, using all the videos for the 403 and 401 that you have generously shared with all. I've got it almost back together again and can't wait to see how I did!
@@jenniferbowdoin4197 OK, no worries. I hope it all works out well for you. A very nice machine.