Thanks Andy for very useful video. Mine 403G had just this area issue, vibrating bracket didn't work properly. After reassembling and cleaning it thoroughly it almost worked but started to bind when i tightened that big clamping screw for the pin. And if I didn't tighten it properly spring force of the presser foot popped it up... After some thinking and tinkering I noticed that there should be some axial play for the bracket, so that black collar is best leave slightly below the v.b. so that there is very small gap there. This helped a bit but final fix was to increase spring force for the needle bar driving arm (which makes needle move sideways). This can be done by adding a slightly bigger diameter new spring over old spring and making similar short and long ends for it. After this fix my machine started to work properly, needle now moves from side to side at full 5mm range. It isn't that critical how long that new spring is, idea is just to get a bit more force so that cam follower follows the cam all the time. That eccentric pin in which you did markings adjusts needle position. So if it goes off you just rotate it until needle hits the center of needle plate (and presser foot of course) when sewing straight stitch and it goes equally far on both sides when zigzag is used.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks but I was just trying to make a quick fix - it took me several hours. Then I took a break and found your video and rest was easier when I saw how you did it. I still don't know why tightening that clamp made vibrating bracket bind but giving it slightly vertical space and more spring tension finally fixed it. I also degreased pin for clamp so that it would stay put with lesser clamping force. I really appreciate your help for keeping these wonderful machines alive and working. I rescued mine from dumpster, sad to see how people throw things like these away and buy plastic crap machines. Thank you🙂
I watched this video two or three times in the last couple of days, and I finally got my 403A working at full capacity, thanks Andy. I had put it on the back burner a couple of days ago and decided I’ve got to get back to it and get it right. And sure enough I did.
Another fabulous and insightful video. I was struggling to get the vibrating bracket spring relocated on the 411G. I knew you would have a tip on how to do it, and you did. Thanks again Andy.
My spring had come loose and I didn't know where it was connected. Watching your video I was able to put it on your site. Thanks for your fantastic work.
Thank you again, for causing me to be less afraid of, !!!THINKING ABOUT!!!, taking that fearsome step in cleaning my awesome Singer gems more thoroughly with the disassembling & reassembling! I now have two Singer 401A's & a Singer 500A. A few years ago, after cleaning up my first Singer 401A, it ran smoothly perfect until the spring you were working with came loose. I didn't know where to attach either end. So, I watch several videos to see if someone had their camera shooting downward into the top of their open machine. I seen about where one end should go, but, that little hook was broke off of my machine. I took a little wire, wrapped it to attach & made a hook. After watching your video, I see I guessed right as to where to place the other end. 😌 It works just fine for now. I'm sure the hook could have broken off because it needed a more thorough cleaning, especially after seeing the gunk after you disassembled your's. Triflow seems to really help those of us who only knows a machines partial disassembly.
You have nothing to fear. It's hard to hurt a slant-o-matic. Just do one item at a time, take pictures as you go for reinstalling and enjoy it. It is very rewarding to have your machines looking/working so well.
Thank you so much for this excellent lesson. You teach so much like my dad did. Very thorough. I really appreciate it because I needed to put my spring back in. 😌
Wooohooo, you are the man Andy! Now I know what to do with the mystery spring. I don’t guess there’s anything you haven’t covered!. ❤️. I would have eventually gotten to this video but I’m glad I’m here today. I have saved all of your videos, it’s just going to be a few days before I get to watch them all. Too bad you don’t live in my neighborhood, I’d be your biggest pest😂. It’s the little things that make me happy. Thank you sooooo much.
That was a good idea, using the hook tool to remove and install the spring. It looks a lot easier than trying to manipulate needle nose pliers in a constricted space.
Ohhhhh I'm crying again! __ OK 👍 I'm centered...don't panic just breathe. I'm close to the answer I just know it Andy. I learned a lot from this video thank you soo much! Issues at hand now...timing line/ needle bar bottom not going all the way down. Horizontal bar not coming out of bobbin mode.
No need to panic. I also have a playlist for model 503 which has most of the same parts, just a different body. If you don't find answers in the 403A Regina playlist, take a look at this 503A Vicky playlist; ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX If you feel some parts are the wrong ones you can find used parts on eBay and other online marketplaces. I also want to mention the Service Manuals for models 401, 403, 404 which cover your machine and there are also some very good directions in the 500/503 Service Manual that are very clear. These manuals explain about removing and replacing parts, setting heights and spaces, and adjusting the machines Fortunately these particular manuals are FREE to download. (you usually must buy them) if you go to this page, about 3/4 of the way down (it's a tall page) you will see the SERVICE manual for the 4033A, and then at the very bottom is the SERVICE manual for the 500/503 sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/page/2/ I have used dozens of these manuals and find them extremely helpful. Parts diagrams with parts numbers can be sent FREE from andymanuals53@gmail.com Just tell him the model numbers you want. Don't give up and thank you for keeping the machine.
Thank you for another wonderful video! I have watched this and several others about needle bars and the vibrating bracket, but I have not found an answer to my issue with a 628. I freed up the vibrating bracket and have good back and forth motion, however, all three needle positions are homing a hair too far to the right. The right position almost hits the edge of the plate opening. I watched your video on adjusting the needle bar position on the 437, but I don't think that applies to the slant machines with vibrating brackets. I also watched the one on zeroing-out the ZZ stitch amplitude, but I'm not sure that applies either. Does the eccentric pin affect L-C-R position? If you have already addressed this positioning issue, can you please point me to the correct video? Or even the name of the part that corrects this. Thanks for all the rabbit holes you encourage me to explore ;-)
You may want to center the needle in the straight stitch needle plate to be sure it is in the center. That's done by loosening the screws holding the needle bar driving arm to the vibrating bracket and holding the needle in the needle plate while tightening. To get the idea you can download a free copy of the 401 Service Manual here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf and look at page 142. You can also buy a copy of the 628 service manual. I do not work on T & S models and do not have that manual to know if your problem will be covered. Terry sells the manual here: store.tandtrepair.com/sm620.html Use my coupon code of andy-h-yt to get 20% off during 2021. If none of this helps you fix the problem you can not find anyone who knows more about T & S models than Terry at TNT Thanks for watching my channel and look for a nice 403A model ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg 😀
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much. I think the 401 manual page you mentioned will cover exactly what I need to know. I totally agree that a nice 403 needs to come my way, but I figure I can practice on this 628 and not do any irreparable harm (I may have already lost one of the plastic gears to overzealous experimentation). Thanks for sharing Terry at TNT. I have two (or is it three...) early T & S models and he sounds like a great resource. But YOU are the best!
@@deborahsensel-davis816 OK, good. It's what I would check first. Yes, Terry is a great resource for T & S. I have bought some of the guides her wrote years ago and they helped me. Good Luck.
Hi Andy, my 353 Genie's (Joon) presser bar is a total disaster. The gunk has to be 1/8th of an inch thick in spots and I really would like to take the presser bar off and soak it. I can't find a video on how to do that with the Genie. Also the take up lever is really loose, ( I think that's what its called) hoping a part isnt missing. Looks like there is a spring involved which I'm not comfortable with but if I'm lead through with a video that I can replay, (just in case something bad happens and the world is about to end) that would be awesome!. Your probably pretty busy, (knee deep in machine parts and cleaning solution) but I will happily wait, if you don't have a video made 🙂. Much appreciated!.
Thanks for the donation. It sounds like a messy one, poor thing. Time to take Joon to the SPA I think. Please bookmark this playlist of my videos for working on the Genie Model. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p In these videos I show "how-to" for the covers, handle, spool pin,bobbin winder, presser bar, needle bar, hook to needle timing, motor belt, handwheel, on/off switch, light, motor, feed dog, apollo hook system, needle thread tension unit, cleaning (you will enjoy this one, I think) and lubrication. Everything you need to help Joon get good to go! Best of luck
@@andytubesewing1953 sure thing, it wasn't much but every bit helps right?. I've watched most of the videos but I'm needing to see how to disassemble the presser foot bar and the presser foot lifter. I watched a different video you have on that exact area and got a better idea of what's involved. I'll see if I can manage with that video. The stitch selector is also not wanting to move smoothly, not sure what's up with that. I might have to bring her to my sewing machine guy here. Wish I could send her to you but Vancouver island, British Columbia, Canada is pretty far away. Anyways, thanks for the videos, I'd love to see you restore a brother galaxie 221. I've been given one of those, and I'm going to have to clean her out too. Take care and all the best with that crazy weather you guys get 🙂.
The video for the presser bar is included in the playlist for which I gave you the link in my comment above. Here is the link to the presser bar video: ruclips.net/video/Jn6Vz0dFb-E/видео.html
I cannot remove the collar! It rotates but does not come off. I have tried to get it with pliers and everything. Any ideas on how to remove it more forcibly without harming the machine? Right now it's been soaking with krud cutter for over an hour.
Removing Collar Update: Success I finally removed it successfully! Sharing my findings for others. After soaking the eccentric hinge pin and collar in krud kutter I found that the collar was sliding back and forth up not down and off the eccentric hinge pin. I took pliers and firmly grabbed the collar. Then I took a firm painters knife (not flexible) and pushed up on the eccentric hinge pin from underneath. This allowed me to then wedge a flat screwdriver under the eccentric hinge and push it up. This pulled the hinge pin up and through the collar that was being so stubborn. The collar then fell off with my pliers holding it. Done!
@@andytubesewing1953 You are a complete gem and one of my favorite bloggers/vloggers! Thank you for all the awesome videos you make. I have fixed my machine completely with all the videos you have supplied and there have been some major repairs. Couldn't have done it without you. Cash headed your way after my next paycheck.
@@JessieLynnly Very kind of you to say this, thank you. I appreciate that you've saved the machine to keep it in service! Happy sewing and maybe you'll do another machine in the future; you're already good at it, so why not? 😀 Take Care.
Hi Andy, at 32:24, regarding the spring. My 401 has the spring the opposite way: long end to the back and short end to the nose. Should I put it back the correct way? Thanks :)
I put the spring back the way you showed, long end at the nose and short end inside. But the spring wasn’t the cause of my machine not zigzag properly. It ziged but only zagged for about 1 millimetre. It was the eccentric rod for the presser bar not in the right position, I turned it 180 degrees, and the bar is swinging happily now. Thank you so much Andy. You saved the day:)
@@Homesewer7 Nicely done. BTW, I recently was able to get copies of the parts diagrams for Models 401A & 403A. Both of them show the long hook to the back and short end with coil to the front, like your machine originally. I don't know if it really makes a difference, but the Singer engineers were smart, so I advise folks to put the spring the way your 401A was when you first got it. I'm concerned that maybe there could be wear on the spring over the years. Just my opinion. My wife says the long end is to the back to make it easier to attach. I rarely argue with her any longer b/c I usually lose 😃
Love your videos; they've helped me with adjustments and service on a couple of 403a's I've acquired. This might be a bit off this topic; but one problem I'm having is when the take up lever is moving in the up position, and the motor stops the take up lever will drop back and the needle will drop 1/8" or so. It can be very annoying. Almost like the horizontal upper shaft moves too easily. With the top off I notice the counter weight above the motor toward a horizontal position. I can hand turn the wheel, let go and watch everything including motor gear rotate a bit in reverse, take up arm drops about 1/2" or so. I'm wondering if there's a way to tighten all that up. The other machine does it too but only by a very small amount and the needle bar doesn't move perceptibly. If anyone has a suggestion I'm all ears.
That's odd. I've never had that before. I know you mentioned the counterweight moving but all the parts on the machine move together (of course) so even though what you see moving is the takeup lever and needle, the feed lift and feed rock shafts, feed dog and hook and hook shaft would all me moving at the same time. If the takeup lever (connects to the arm shaft counterbalance) and the needle bar (also connects to the arm shaft counterbalance) are moving but the dog and hook don't, that makes me think the Clutch Washer behind the Stop Motion knob of the handwheel is installed incorrectly. That's my WAG, Terry. (Wild Ass Guess). If you figure it out please come back and let us know if you have time. Good Luck. (P.S. I feel honored you made a comment on my channel the first day you make a YT account 🙏)
Hi Andy. Think of you often and hope for your good health. I’m wondering if Terry solved his needle dropping problem. I believe I had the same symptoms with my 403A. It turned out the motor shaft (PA9-8) had some play in it. When I took the motor out of the machine and pushed/pulled on the motor shaft, the center circle of the top bearing moved about 1/16”. I was never able to fix the motor. Luckily I had a spare motor that was in good shape from my Parts 401A machine, and it works fine in my 403A machine.
Terry, never heard back from you if you solved your problem. Hoping this reaches you and please read the comment from Carole in this thread. She found a cause for the same problem that may help. Good Luck.
@@carolemagnusson5044 Thanks very much, Carole. I replied again to Terry's original comment and hope it gets seen. Thanks for the contribution 🙏and take care.
Dear Andy, You have answered several questions for me via email. I am working on a 401A Singer. Pleasele tme know what tool are you using to remove the bolt at 18:57 of this video? I have tried lubrication, triflow, WD40, Krud Kutter, heat with hairdryer, for a week now, and the only thing that happens is my ratchet type screw driver is chewing up my bolt! Please help!
It's called a mini rachet. It is basically a 1/4 inch ratchet and came with a set of screwdrivers made for working on sewing machines, guns, typewriters, etc. The mini ratchet can put about 200lbs of torque on that screw; about 3 to 4 times what your regular screwdriver and your hand can do. Here is a video of the screwdrivers: ruclips.net/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/видео.html This is where I bought my set, right from the manufacturer: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set The thing with these type of bits are the parallel sides (hollow ground) that fit the screw head better than the typically tapered screwdriver bits. That means you have less chance of damaging the screw head. Many 1/4 inch rachets have a screwdriver bit set or a bit holder included. I use this set of screwdrivers on almost every machine I work on. If I was buying one today I'd buy the one with more slotted bits. Sorry you have such a tough screw, but it does happen now and then. Good luck.
@@jenniferbowdoin4197 I saw that! I guess they realized more ladies are repairing and maintaining their own machines. I see they updated the mini ratchet too. I'm very happy with the set I bought and I know you will enjoy working with them.
Hi Andy I'm restoring a Singer 403a. All put back together however, the needle position button does not move the needle bar. When I push on the vibrating bracket, it doesn't bounce back. I have replaced the spring. I have taken it apart a put it back together 3 times. Any suggestions? Thank You Pam
"all put back together", so what all did you remove? At 10:45 in the video, I show the spring for the VIBRATING BRACKET has one end connected to the TENSION ARM. The tension arm goes on the nose-end side of the paddle of the NEEDLE BAR DRIVING ARM (did you remove & replace that arm?) At 12:05 of this video ruclips.net/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/видео.html I start talking about how the NBDA must be installed, and mention the location of that TENSION ARM. So if I was sitting at the machine I would be looking at that. If you removed the DISC DRIVING WORM WHEEL as in this video ruclips.net/video/VpQgjM-LFEo/видео.html then you worked on some of the parts of the NEEDLE BAR POSITIONING BRACKET and you can check to see if you reassembled those parts correctly. Without seeing your machine in person that's about all I can suggest.
@@andytubesewing1953 I basically stripped it down for a bath. Taking out the cam holder as you did in a video. Now that it's put back together it sews straight stitch nicely. However when I try to move the needle position the lever moves but not the needle. Also when in zigzag it only stitches on the left side. Any suggestions? Thank You Pam P.S. Love your videos..... I restored a 401a..
The Eccentric hinge pin? Is that what you found or is this a what-if type question? A good question. Sometimes people move the pin without knowing it is set at the factory. So that pin is used to center the needle, front to back, in the needle plate hole. It involves using the straight stitch needle plate, the one with the small round hole, and a size 11 needle. The instructions for making the setting are found of page 142 of the service manual for class 401 machines, which I'll sell you for $50.00 (joke) You can download the manual free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf (thank you, sewing dude) Where the directions say to set the 401A levers and knobs at A-K-3, or your 403A just use Center needle position of the L-C-R knob and zero zIgzag or straight stitch. When you turn the hinge pin and get the needle centered front to back, that is the correct setting. You have to play with it sometimes it is such a small movement back & forth. Also on page 142 are instructions for centering the needle left to right which you may as well do while you're working on it. Thanks for watching my channel, Tracy. Question of the week award goes to you✨ 🏆 ✨
this is what I was hoping you'd already answered. I turned the eccentric screw before seeing your video, but I'd turned it following the service manual because the needle wasn't centered in the hole when I got the machine. Glad to know I WAS doing the right thing and not messing it up further lol.@@andytubesewing1953
Thanks Andy for very useful video. Mine 403G had just this area issue, vibrating bracket didn't work properly. After reassembling and cleaning it thoroughly it almost worked but started to bind when i tightened that big clamping screw for the pin. And if I didn't tighten it properly spring force of the presser foot popped it up... After some thinking and tinkering I noticed that there should be some axial play for the bracket, so that black collar is best leave slightly below the v.b. so that there is very small gap there.
This helped a bit but final fix was to increase spring force for the needle bar driving arm (which makes needle move sideways). This can be done by adding a slightly bigger diameter new spring over old spring and making similar short and long ends for it. After this fix my machine started to work properly, needle now moves from side to side at full 5mm range. It isn't that critical how long that new spring is, idea is just to get a bit more force so that cam follower follows the cam all the time.
That eccentric pin in which you did markings adjusts needle position. So if it goes off you just rotate it until needle hits the center of needle plate (and presser foot of course) when sewing straight stitch and it goes equally far on both sides when zigzag is used.
Thanks for sharing your interesting workarounds. Clever. I was hoping you had made a video. I pinned your comment to the top for others to see.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks but I was just trying to make a quick fix - it took me several hours. Then I took a break and found your video and rest was easier when I saw how you did it.
I still don't know why tightening that clamp made vibrating bracket bind but giving it slightly vertical space and more spring tension finally fixed it. I also degreased pin for clamp so that it would stay put with lesser clamping force.
I really appreciate your help for keeping these wonderful machines alive and working. I rescued mine from dumpster, sad to see how people throw things like these away and buy plastic crap machines.
Thank you🙂
@@bekanav No worries, I was just hoping... I appreciate you saving the machine. A real treasure, IMO. Take care.
I watched this video two or three times in the last couple of days, and I finally got my 403A working at full capacity, thanks Andy. I had put it on the back burner a couple of days ago and decided I’ve got to get back to it and get it right. And sure enough I did.
Determination has its reward. Congratulations! Thanks for getting that machine working 😄
Another fabulous and insightful video. I was struggling to get the vibrating bracket spring relocated on the 411G. I knew you would have a tip on how to do it, and you did. Thanks again Andy.
happy it helped, Mark. Sounds like your 411G is shaping up.
My spring had come loose and I didn't know where it was connected. Watching your video I was able to put it on your site. Thanks for your fantastic work.
Thanks for the great comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Happy sewing.
Thank you again, for causing me to be less afraid of, !!!THINKING ABOUT!!!, taking that fearsome step in cleaning my awesome Singer gems more thoroughly with the disassembling & reassembling!
I now have two Singer 401A's & a Singer 500A.
A few years ago, after cleaning up my first Singer 401A, it ran smoothly perfect until the spring you were working with came loose. I didn't know where to attach either end. So, I watch several videos to see if someone had their camera shooting downward into the top of their open machine. I seen about where one end should go, but, that little hook was broke off of my machine. I took a little wire, wrapped it to attach & made a hook. After watching your video, I see I guessed right as to where to place the other end. 😌 It works just fine for now.
I'm sure the hook could have broken off because it needed a more thorough cleaning, especially after seeing the gunk after you disassembled your's. Triflow seems to really help those of us who only knows a machines partial disassembly.
You have nothing to fear. It's hard to hurt a slant-o-matic. Just do one item at a time, take pictures as you go for reinstalling and enjoy it. It is very rewarding to have your machines looking/working so well.
Thank you so much for this excellent lesson. You teach so much like my dad did. Very thorough. I really appreciate it because I needed to put my spring back in. 😌
Welcome, Ruth. Glad you found this video, and bless your Dad.
Thank you Andy for your video tutorial. I did it replaced the uptake thread arm and got the needle placement right she sews beautifully.
Great news, you made me happy this morning. Thank you 🙏
Wooohooo, you are the man Andy! Now I know what to do with the mystery spring. I don’t guess there’s anything you haven’t covered!. ❤️. I would have eventually gotten to this video but I’m glad I’m here today. I have saved all of your videos, it’s just going to be a few days before I get to watch them all. Too bad you don’t live in my neighborhood, I’d be your biggest pest😂. It’s the little things that make me happy. Thank you sooooo much.
Happy it worked out OK. Good luck going forward, and thanks for saving that Rocketer 500A.
That was a good idea, using the hook tool to remove and install the spring. It looks a lot easier than trying to manipulate needle nose pliers in a constricted space.
thank you I agree I've used the flyers before and it's a hassle the hooks a lot easier thanks for watching Terry take care
Ohhhhh I'm crying again! __ OK 👍 I'm centered...don't panic just breathe. I'm close to the answer I just know it Andy. I learned a lot from this video thank you soo much! Issues at hand now...timing line/ needle bar bottom not going all the way down. Horizontal bar not coming out of bobbin mode.
No need to panic. I also have a playlist for model 503 which has most of the same parts, just a different body. If you don't find answers in the 403A Regina playlist, take a look at this 503A Vicky playlist; ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX If you feel some parts are the wrong ones you can find used parts on eBay and other online marketplaces. I also want to mention the Service Manuals for models 401, 403, 404 which cover your machine and there are also some very good directions in the 500/503 Service Manual that are very clear. These manuals explain about removing and replacing parts, setting heights and spaces, and adjusting the machines Fortunately these particular manuals are FREE to download. (you usually must buy them) if you go to this page, about 3/4 of the way down (it's a tall page) you will see the SERVICE manual for the 4033A, and then at the very bottom is the SERVICE manual for the 500/503 sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/page/2/ I have used dozens of these manuals and find them extremely helpful. Parts diagrams with parts numbers can be sent FREE from andymanuals53@gmail.com Just tell him the model numbers you want. Don't give up and thank you for keeping the machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the links. You rock!
@@TheChohoshika 😉
Thank you for another wonderful video! I have watched this and several others about needle bars and the vibrating bracket, but I have not found an answer to my issue with a 628. I freed up the vibrating bracket and have good back and forth motion, however, all three needle positions are homing a hair too far to the right. The right position almost hits the edge of the plate opening. I watched your video on adjusting the needle bar position on the 437, but I don't think that applies to the slant machines with vibrating brackets. I also watched the one on zeroing-out the ZZ stitch amplitude, but I'm not sure that applies either. Does the eccentric pin affect L-C-R position? If you have already addressed this positioning issue, can you please point me to the correct video? Or even the name of the part that corrects this. Thanks for all the rabbit holes you encourage me to explore ;-)
You may want to center the needle in the straight stitch needle plate to be sure it is in the center. That's done by loosening the screws holding the needle bar driving arm to the vibrating bracket and holding the needle in the needle plate while tightening.
To get the idea you can download a free copy of the 401 Service Manual here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf and look at page 142. You can also buy a copy of the 628 service manual. I do not work on T & S models and do not have that manual to know if your problem will be covered. Terry sells the manual here: store.tandtrepair.com/sm620.html Use my coupon code of andy-h-yt to get 20% off during 2021. If none of this helps you fix the problem you can not find anyone who knows more about T & S models than Terry at TNT Thanks for watching my channel and look for a nice 403A model ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg 😀
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much. I think the 401 manual page you mentioned will cover exactly what I need to know. I totally agree that a nice 403 needs to come my way, but I figure I can practice on this 628 and not do any irreparable harm (I may have already lost one of the plastic gears to overzealous experimentation). Thanks for sharing Terry at TNT. I have two (or is it three...) early T & S models and he sounds like a great resource. But YOU are the best!
@@deborahsensel-davis816 OK, good. It's what I would check first. Yes, Terry is a great resource for T & S. I have bought some of the guides her wrote years ago and they helped me. Good Luck.
Hi Andy, my 353 Genie's (Joon) presser bar is a total disaster. The gunk has to be 1/8th of an inch thick in spots and I really would like to take the presser bar off and soak it. I can't find a video on how to do that with the Genie. Also the take up lever is really loose, ( I think that's what its called) hoping a part isnt missing. Looks like there is a spring involved which I'm not comfortable with but if I'm lead through with a video that I can replay, (just in case something bad happens and the world is about to end) that would be awesome!. Your probably pretty busy, (knee deep in machine parts and cleaning solution) but I will happily wait, if you don't have a video made 🙂. Much appreciated!.
Thanks for the donation. It sounds like a messy one, poor thing. Time to take Joon to the SPA I think. Please bookmark this playlist of my videos for working on the Genie Model. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p
In these videos I show "how-to" for the covers, handle, spool pin,bobbin winder, presser bar, needle bar, hook to needle timing, motor belt, handwheel, on/off switch, light, motor, feed dog, apollo hook system, needle thread tension unit, cleaning (you will enjoy this one, I think) and lubrication. Everything you need to help Joon get good to go! Best of luck
@@andytubesewing1953 sure thing, it wasn't much but every bit helps right?. I've watched most of the videos but I'm needing to see how to disassemble the presser foot bar and the presser foot lifter. I watched a different video you have on that exact area and got a better idea of what's involved. I'll see if I can manage with that video. The stitch selector is also not wanting to move smoothly, not sure what's up with that. I might have to bring her to my sewing machine guy here. Wish I could send her to you but Vancouver island, British Columbia, Canada is pretty far away. Anyways, thanks for the videos, I'd love to see you restore a brother galaxie 221. I've been given one of those, and I'm going to have to clean her out too. Take care and all the best with that crazy weather you guys get 🙂.
The video for the presser bar is included in the playlist for which I gave you the link in my comment above. Here is the link to the presser bar video: ruclips.net/video/Jn6Vz0dFb-E/видео.html
I cannot remove the collar! It rotates but does not come off. I have tried to get it with pliers and everything. Any ideas on how to remove it more forcibly without harming the machine? Right now it's been soaking with krud cutter for over an hour.
Removing Collar Update: Success
I finally removed it successfully! Sharing my findings for others. After soaking the eccentric hinge pin and collar in krud kutter I found that the collar was sliding back and forth up not down and off the eccentric hinge pin. I took pliers and firmly grabbed the collar. Then I took a firm painters knife (not flexible) and pushed up on the eccentric hinge pin from underneath. This allowed me to then wedge a flat screwdriver under the eccentric hinge and push it up. This pulled the hinge pin up and through the collar that was being so stubborn. The collar then fell off with my pliers holding it. Done!
I'm glad you worked it out! Thanks for sharing the method and I'll pin your comment to the top for others who may have a problem.
@@andytubesewing1953 You are a complete gem and one of my favorite bloggers/vloggers! Thank you for all the awesome videos you make. I have fixed my machine completely with all the videos you have supplied and there have been some major repairs. Couldn't have done it without you. Cash headed your way after my next paycheck.
@@JessieLynnly Very kind of you to say this, thank you. I appreciate that you've saved the machine to keep it in service!
Happy sewing and maybe you'll do another machine in the future; you're already good at it, so why not? 😀 Take Care.
Hi Andy, at 32:24, regarding the spring. My 401 has the spring the opposite way: long end to the back and short end to the nose. Should I put it back the correct way?
Thanks :)
I put the spring back the way you showed, long end at the nose and short end inside. But the spring wasn’t the cause of my machine not zigzag properly. It ziged but only zagged for about 1 millimetre. It was the eccentric rod for the presser bar not in the right position, I turned it 180 degrees, and the bar is swinging happily now. Thank you so much Andy. You saved the day:)
@@Homesewer7 Nicely done. BTW, I recently was able to get copies of the parts diagrams for Models 401A & 403A. Both of them show the long hook to the back and short end with coil to the front, like your machine originally. I don't know if it really makes a difference, but the Singer engineers were smart, so I advise folks to put the spring the way your 401A was when you first got it. I'm concerned that maybe there could be wear on the spring over the years. Just my opinion. My wife says the long end is to the back to make it easier to attach. I rarely argue with her any longer b/c I usually lose 😃
Thanks Andy, I’ll switch the spring as you advised.
Love your videos; they've helped me with adjustments and service on a couple of 403a's I've acquired. This might be a bit off this topic; but one problem I'm having is when the take up lever is moving in the up position, and the motor stops the take up lever will drop back and the needle will drop 1/8" or so. It can be very annoying. Almost like the horizontal upper shaft moves too easily. With the top off I notice the counter weight above the motor toward a horizontal position. I can hand turn the wheel, let go and watch everything including motor gear rotate a bit in reverse, take up arm drops about 1/2" or so. I'm wondering if there's a way to tighten all that up. The other machine does it too but only by a very small amount and the needle bar doesn't move perceptibly.
If anyone has a suggestion I'm all ears.
That's odd. I've never had that before. I know you mentioned the counterweight moving but all the parts on the machine move together (of course) so even though what you see moving is the takeup lever and needle, the feed lift and feed rock shafts, feed dog and hook and hook shaft would all me moving at the same time. If the takeup lever (connects to the arm shaft counterbalance) and the needle bar (also connects to the arm shaft counterbalance) are moving but the dog and hook don't, that makes me think the Clutch Washer behind the Stop Motion knob of the handwheel is installed incorrectly. That's my WAG, Terry. (Wild Ass Guess). If you figure it out please come back and let us know if you have time. Good Luck. (P.S. I feel honored you made a comment on my channel the first day you make a YT account 🙏)
Hi Andy. Think of you often and hope for your good health. I’m wondering if Terry solved his needle dropping problem. I believe I had the same symptoms with my 403A. It turned out the motor shaft (PA9-8) had some play in it. When I took the motor out of the machine and pushed/pulled on the motor shaft, the center circle of the top bearing moved about 1/16”. I was never able to fix the motor. Luckily I had a spare motor that was in good shape from my Parts 401A machine, and it works fine in my 403A machine.
Terry, never heard back from you if you solved your problem. Hoping this reaches you and please read the comment from Carole in this thread. She found a cause for the same problem that may help. Good Luck.
@@carolemagnusson5044 Thanks very much, Carole. I replied again to Terry's original comment and hope it gets seen. Thanks for the contribution 🙏and take care.
Dear Andy,
You have answered several questions for me via email. I am working on a 401A Singer. Pleasele tme know what tool are you using to remove the bolt at 18:57 of this video? I have tried lubrication, triflow, WD40, Krud Kutter, heat with hairdryer, for a week now, and the only thing that happens is my ratchet type screw driver is chewing up my bolt! Please help!
It's called a mini rachet. It is basically a 1/4 inch ratchet and came with a set of screwdrivers made for working on sewing machines, guns, typewriters, etc. The mini ratchet can put about 200lbs of torque on that screw; about 3 to 4 times what your regular screwdriver and your hand can do. Here is a video of the screwdrivers: ruclips.net/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/видео.html This is where I bought my set, right from the manufacturer: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set The thing with these type of bits are the parallel sides (hollow ground) that fit the screw head better than the typically tapered screwdriver bits. That means you have less chance of damaging the screw head. Many 1/4 inch rachets have a screwdriver bit set or a bit holder included. I use this set of screwdrivers on almost every machine I work on. If I was buying one today I'd buy the one with more slotted bits. Sorry you have such a tough screw, but it does happen now and then. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you Andy, it comes in pink too!
@@jenniferbowdoin4197 I saw that! I guess they realized more ladies are repairing and maintaining their own machines. I see they updated the mini ratchet too. I'm very happy with the set I bought and I know you will enjoy working with them.
Hi Andy
I'm restoring a Singer 403a. All put back together however, the needle position button does not move the needle bar. When I push on the vibrating bracket, it doesn't bounce back. I have replaced the spring. I have taken it apart a put it back together 3 times. Any suggestions?
Thank You
Pam
"all put back together", so what all did you remove? At 10:45 in the video, I show the spring for the VIBRATING BRACKET has one end connected to the TENSION ARM. The tension arm goes on the nose-end side of the paddle of the NEEDLE BAR DRIVING ARM (did you remove & replace that arm?)
At 12:05 of this video ruclips.net/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/видео.html I start talking about how the NBDA must be installed, and mention the location of that TENSION ARM. So if I was sitting at the machine I would be looking at that. If you removed the DISC DRIVING WORM WHEEL as in this video ruclips.net/video/VpQgjM-LFEo/видео.html then you worked on some of the parts of the NEEDLE BAR POSITIONING BRACKET and you can check to see if you reassembled those parts correctly. Without seeing your machine in person that's about all I can suggest.
@@andytubesewing1953 I basically stripped it down for a bath. Taking out the cam holder as you did in a video. Now that it's put back together it sews straight stitch nicely. However when I try to move the needle position the lever moves but not the needle. Also when in zigzag it only stitches on the left side. Any suggestions?
Thank You
Pam
P.S. Love your videos..... I restored a 401a..
What if the factory set eccentric screw was already turning? is there a way to find out where it went? Thanks for these videos! 403 A!
The Eccentric hinge pin? Is that what you found or is this a what-if type question? A good question. Sometimes people move the pin without knowing it is set at the factory. So that pin is used to center the needle, front to back, in the needle plate hole. It involves using the straight stitch needle plate, the one with the small round hole, and a size 11 needle. The instructions for making the setting are found of page 142 of the service manual for class 401 machines, which I'll sell you for $50.00 (joke) You can download the manual free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf (thank you, sewing dude)
Where the directions say to set the 401A levers and knobs at A-K-3, or your 403A just use Center needle position of the L-C-R knob and zero zIgzag or straight stitch. When you turn the hinge pin and get the needle centered front to back, that is the correct setting. You have to play with it sometimes it is such a small movement back & forth. Also on page 142 are instructions for centering the needle left to right which you may as well do while you're working on it. Thanks for watching my channel, Tracy. Question of the week award goes to you✨ 🏆 ✨
Thanks! You answered my question perfectly. @@andytubesewing1953
I was just going to ask this same question. I just got one in a beautiful cabinet with a hidden drawer.Endless Thanks
this is what I was hoping you'd already answered. I turned the eccentric screw before seeing your video, but I'd turned it following the service manual because the needle wasn't centered in the hole when I got the machine. Glad to know I WAS doing the right thing and not messing it up further lol.@@andytubesewing1953
@@dragonchild569 Glad you found the answer Godd Job. Maybe you're a natural at this? 👍