Just bought my second 401a; once again, you rescued me from a new problem. The machine is dirty but runs well; main problem was a wobbly selector knob. You, Mr. Andy, are a true treasure: we all owe you a bunch! Thanks again!
@@jreese8284 congratulations those machines make a nice pair I'm glad the video helped you out with your new treasure I really appreciate your comment thank you
I am so happy to see this! My front switch selector knob has been wobbly or loose for a LOOONG time, and I can't loosen the screws. Now I know how! You are the best. Very thorough, and easygoing, so we can actually absorb what you're teaching.
Thanks Andy, over a year after you made the video I'm working on a 401 and just removed, cleaned and reinstalled the cam stack, the knobs, the lifters and followers. You're a great resource that just keeps giving. And I've got two more 401s to get to.
Terry, I'm in the same boat. These machines are some of the best, even better than todays new standards. These are strong and can do what todays machines can not unless you buy a beast industrial. To get one of the 400 or 500 series is where you can do almost anything you want.
Terry, I’m getting ready now to watch this as many times as it takes to do this with my 401A. Andy is so thorough that I have no doubt about a successful attempt!
Such an excellent, detailed tutorial. I am ready to remove, clean and reinstall the sticky, recalcitrant knobs and lifters of my 500A. I have already removed and cleaned the cam stack; the gear and cams were so stuck together that my husband thought they were one piece and therefore couldn’t possibly be separated. The application of some WD-40 and heat proved him wrong. 😀 I did experience flash rust on some of the cams, even though I started drying them as soon as I rinsed off the Krud Kutter. Next time I will rinse off just one cam, dry it and apply a light coating of oil before proceeding to the next.
You ARE ready, I can tell. You can do it too. The metal of the pattern cams is less treated than other metal parts and they can just bloom with flash rust one you strip the grease off. Wish I could have watched you with the WD40 and heat and bet your husband was impressed with your skills! It's good to be the Sewing Machine Mechanic in the family! Easy does it and enjoy seeing the knobs & lifters looking like new. Take Care.
Wow! Nicely done Mary. I'm glad you found the video and were able to get that nice machine back in service. I really appreciate your comment. Happy sewing!
Thanks Andy , just completely stripped, degreased and polished my cam stack , followers and associated brackets on my 411. I have yet to reassemble but this video is such a help.
I'm so glad you found my video. It's rewarding to see how clean those parts can be and you'll be happy with how well they work when finished. Thanks for letting me know the technique can be applied to the 411G and I'll ad that in the description. Take care.
I'm glad you find them useful. Thanks for saving that machine. There are some videos in this playlist you may find helpful: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Also, chances are your foot controller needs some attention too. Here is a playlist for rehabbing it: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Good luck and happy (future) sewing.
Hi Andy. I had already done everything in this video before you posted it. I'm not bragging -- I want to mention that I put the shaft back in with the flat spot down because that's the way it was in when I took it out. After watching your video, I immediately changed the shaft to put the flat spot up. It did make a difference! The pointer on the left on the front now sits at "A" when I put it at "A" and at "B" when I put it at "B", etc. With the flat side down on the shaft, the pointer would sit half way between "A" and "B" when it was actually in the slot for "B" and so forth all the way down. I just thought Singer sometimes was not so precise; everything else worked well. So thanks! Of course, I'm looking forward to all your future videos.
Maybe you should brag a little bit! It's not an easy task to remove and replace all those fiddley parts. Nicely done. It's so interesting to read your comment about the flat spot on the shaft! When I pulled mine out the flat spot was facing up, and I did not give it much thought. I wonder which was is correct? The parts diagram does not show a flat spot, and the Service Manual does not mention it. My machine has many signs of being worked on, too. Based on your experience, I'm going with the flat spot up b/c you had a positive result on the indicator pins from changing it to that position. Carole, have you ever thought of recording your own videos for RUclips? You are getting quite a bit of experience working on these machines, and you have some great instincts and comments. Just a thought. Viewers always enjoy a new perspective. I'm going to pin your comment to the top here in case other viewers have this question about the shaft. Thank you for sharing on my channel. "See" you again soon, I hope.
Thanks for the suggestion about recording some videos on RUclips. I am so far away from recording anything! I haven't taken still pictures of anything, either, but that I can start to do, even though I'm terrible with anything linked to photography. I am going to start taking some pictures of the machines I have refurbished, both inside and outside of the machines. I have some fine-looking, beautiful, well-running and adjusted machines now, and they did not start out that way. Well, now I am bragging a bit. Looking forward to your next video on setting the index pins, setting the arm stops, and zeroing out the machine.
@@carolemagnusson5044 I'd love to see you post some of your machines on YT. I know they are beautiful. The nice thing about YT is you can load a video, even from the app on your cellphone if you have one, and you decide the settings. You can make it public like me, or unlisted so only people you give the link to can watch or set the video to private so only you can see it. That way you can play with it and critic your lighting, angles and so forth. There is free music from YT and free audio editing software too. When you are ready and have time you might enjoy it. I'm starting to film the index pins and hope to have it up by Friday evening. We'll see as I have a treatment Thursday. Thank you as always for watching my channel and for your support.
I got this one cleaned up and running. I still need to tinker with it and adjust it but thank you for the Sklematic! As with my 457 with out the help of your PDFs and some advice and parts I'd be unable to make a stitch.
Oh, I need your experienced advice! In the repair book for the Rocketeer you sent me it states remove the screw (A4) from the stop motion nut (B4) then remove the clamp.(C4) the the hand wheel assembly My question to you is how in heck do I remove the B4 after I remove the A4? Do I pull, turn or am I not understanding that the screw I remove A4 is holding B4 and the B4 is the stop motion nut, the tan or off white portion of the hand wheel?
@@sharellfox-ralston1958 Easy does it! Are you talking about a model 457K? In general, the A4 screw is to keep the stop motion from unscrewing all the way when you put the machine in bobbin winding mode. By removing A4 you can turn B4 to the left until it unscrews from the Arm Shaft Bushing and comes completely off the machine. 👍
@@andytubesewing1953 i am working on the Rocketeer. And you've answered my question when you wrote to unscrew to the left! I had no way to know and was afraid I'd make it tighter.. thanks for your prompt reply and your help. Be well..
@@sharellfox-ralston1958 OK, good. B4 is identified as a "nut". 99% of nuts & screws & bolts unscrew to the left to remove. Lefty loose righty tight. Just like you did to screw A4.
Hahaha! 21:25; you betcha I was itching to get into this! So now everything is out except the bight pins! Ground zero on the rebuild! Thanks for the awesome, Andy! All I gotta do now is put it back together, set everything, and then get it purring like a mechanical kitten! Okay, mechanical tiger!
Thanks very much. Download the manual I mentioned in my reply to your other comment today. You'll have all the adjustment, removal & replacement instructions at your fingertips just a mouse click away. Thanks for watching my channel.
I have removed many screws and bolts that were very difficult. The best method I have found from decades of experience and watching dozens of mechanical videos is to let penetrating oil work overnight and then turn to the right and left, back and forth to break it free.
Hey, Andy, awesome video as always! I have two 401’s that I have cleaned up and lubed. I had found a video for doing the cam stack, but could never find one like this for my gummed up knobs, lifters and followers. I was definitely not confident enough to try it on my own. So thanks a million, again! It looks very do-able now, and I was glad you left the parts in where you had minor challenges, so that I’ll be prepared. Take care, from Winslow!
Thank you! A special thanks for your appreciation of the challenging parts, haha. I've watched some videos and things go so smoothly it makes me wonder what is wrong with me? You can clean these parts up for sure. I'm working on videos for the index pins, setting the stops for the travel of the cam selector shaft and maybe the instructions of how to "zero-out" the machine. Thanks for watching.
WELL DONE ANDY !!! Was hopping to find something regarding the needle position lever but none of the links, to your previous videos, you gave nor this one could help set that of my machine right... THANK YOU ALL THE SAME... Always glad to watch you reviving those metal pieces :-)
It seems you have a few problems with your machine. I'll list some reverences for you on model 611 that may help you and others following your comments. Maybe they can be of help. FREE Instruction Manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=611 $9.00 Service Manual download; manualsoncd.com/product/singer-611-sewing-machine-service-manual/ $22.00 Full professionally printed copy of Service Manual: www.ebay.com/c/1348562806 FREE downloadable Service Manuals for Models 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, 503A can be found on this page: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/page/1/ The model in my videos, 401A, was two generations before your 611. The 600 class machines went to the slide levers to select patterns to replace the knobs. However, many parts were still similar/same as in any mechanical device. Like a car still has a steering wheel, driveshaft, differential, windshield wipers, etc., the Singer machines of the 600 class still have a needle bar driving arm, cam stack, vibrating bracket, feed system, drive system, etc. The manuals for the 400 & 500 class may give you insight into how to work on your model without buying a Service Manual. Of course, the Serice manual for model 611 will have the exact information for the model and parts. I often buy service manuals when I am not familiar with the model. or some parts of the model as it saves a lot of time and frustration. The 611 Service Manual is about 50 pages full of information with directions and pictures for adjusting, remove or installing almost every single part on the machine. I hope you can get your machine running the way you want, I admire your persistence and I thank you for saving it from the scrapheap.
Amazing, I just got a 401A... I'm not mechanically minded... but you have helped me get my machine up and running... my cleaning job is not as deluxe as yours... but I'm learning 😊 ... my motor seems sluggish to start with the new foot pedal (I ordered a new one)...I use the hand wheel to boost motor and takes off just fine... any suggestions, thanks, Julie
We don't know the history of the machine. We don't know what work was done on it or which parts, if any, were replaced. Maybe there is binding on parts of the machine (more in a minute). I have found that cleaning a 60+-year-old machine like this can eliminate most of the problems. At the very least the machine needs a complete oiling as shown in the Instruction Manual which you can download for free from SInger Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 I've had machines arrive completely frozen. I've oiled and heated the moving parts with a hairdryer to get it moving, then did a "Run In" meaning run at a moderate to higher speed for at least 3 minutes. The machine may have never had a proper cleaning. Sometimes 60 years of oiling has settled into all the bushings and bearings and gotten very hard at the low spots. With some new oil, the old oil can get soft and tacky and slow things down even when it gets movable. In the Service Manual on page 161 is a list of 27 things to check if the machine is slow and binds. You can download a free copy of the manual from the Sewing Dude's Blod here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I went down this rabbit hole before. It's really time-consuming. I got to the point it was just quicker to take parts of the machine and wash it in the shower. After hearing from folks who did not want to or did not feel able to remove so many parts I made a video about cleaning the machine with fewer parts removing: ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html It's still a process. If you want to just try and get it moving better than oil per the manual and heat the parts where you put oil. A faster way is to put in kerosene instead of oil and run the machine. Then you have to put in enough oil to flush the kerosene. Here are two playlists of videos, a total of 44 videos, about working on your type of machine: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Good LUck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I think I will stay with my black beauties, I have several singer that only sew a straight stitch but they aren't complicated to clean and oil.
@@deannalindsey889 Sure. The 401A is about the most complicated vintage Singer model to maintain. Newer cared for it much myself. My wife who has sewn for 50+ years felt how you do until she watched me restore the Singer 301A and 404. She just fell in love with those slant needle machines. The 404 has the same motor power and slant as the 401A and it is more heavy-duty and just sews straight stitches. The 301A is her daily machine (see my playlist for "Coco") which has even fewer parts (in-line hook system) and was the first slant needle. She likes that Singer moved the needle closer to the sewist and uses a taller foot so she can see the work area better. She has owned the 15K, 66, 99K, and 201-2, but just doesn't use them any longer. It's just a matter of preference I think as you can't go wrong with any black vintage Singer model. Happy sewing.
Hi Andy thanks for your videos, it helped me a lot with my slant o matic 411G. I followed carefully this video to remove, clean and reassamble but I have a question about the shaft. Is it normal for my shaft to move toward the back of the machine (I can then see some of it outside in the back then) when i push the selector knob to move my selector from A to J? and then when I pull my selector knob to move from K to R, then the shaft moves back in. when I took out my shaft, the little black "tube" in the back of the machine (in which the shaft goes into) move some (it could move either towards the back or towards the inside): is it what causes that shaft movement during the changes of stitches with the selector. Thanks in advance for your help
I've never seen or worked on a 411G, but I can answer your questions based on the parts of the 401A & 500A. 1. Yes, it is normal (and required) that the shaft moves out & in on the back of the machine. You can see this happen a few times in the video. If it did not move you could not select the different pattern on the cam stack. 2. The black "tube" is called the "Stop Bushing". b/c it allows the shaft to slide through it as the shaft moves. Stop because it can be adjusted to Stop the movement of the shaft going out the back at the best point to make the Lifters work correctly. 3. The Stop Bushing should be stationary and should NOT have moved when you pulled out the shaft. The Stop Busing is held in place by a set screw directly above it. If your Stop Bushing moved that means the set screw was loose or missing. 4 Here is a video that explains how to adjust the Stops for the Shaft so the knobs can work properly to move the lifters ruclips.net/video/p_EZnA7d83Q/видео.html
@@SusanJohnson-u7b Don't own an instant pot so I never tried it it sounds fantastic I'm hoping you'll do a video thanks for watching my channel and mentioning your method
Sería GENIAL si aprendieras a cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos al español para poder ver este u otros videos con subtítulos en español. Gracias por aprender algo nuevo hoy. ¿Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips? ruclips.net/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/видео.html Teléfono Android: Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en la aplicación RUclips ruclips.net/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/видео.html También puede usar Google Translate para traducir sus comentarios en español al idioma del video que está comentando. translate.google.com/
Andy - yet another amazing video. You helped me get my “completely stuck” lifters unstuck! Yay! And (probably more importantly) I could get it back together. You were right about getting pictures from many angles. That also saved my bacon. Question - there’s a spring that stretches the length of the machine. I know one side goes to a positioner behind the large vertical needle bar positioning guide (that’s moved w/the 1 - 5 adjustments w the front lever). Where does the other half go? Mine came completely off. Also, you’ve mentioned a paypal account previously - could you share that? You’ve helped me restore three vintage machines now and saved me a LOT of money. Honestly, I’d have stopped at the first one without your videos. Thanks Again!
I think I found where the spring goes. There was a post with a notch and nothing attached there - the post is to the left of and slightly behind the presser foot pressure dial. Given how easily it fell out and the fact that there was nothing in the notch, I assumed that's where it goes. Seems to work!
You are getting the idea now, Marya. Nicely done. You can do all the adjusting, cleaning on the machine, no worries. I hope you are finding it fun and rewarding to be fixing your own machine.
Hi Andy it's me and I'm so happy you answer my questions. I'm watching this one as I type, though my machine is a 500.. is there any differences in the 500a ?
The 500A does have different types of knobs, but all the mechanics are the same as far as these parts. The presser bar system of the 500A is more complicated, IMO, and it also has a weird "thread puller" system next to the take-up lever that SInger never used again. I also have a playlist for model 503A that can help with the 500A ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX
Hi, could you please help me, I have a Singer 431 G it’s very similar but one difference is that the selector knob doesn’t have any screws on the face of it. My knob is wobbly so I know from your video that I need to tighten the screw underneath it, but how does the knob on the 431 com off?
I've never even seen a 431G here, only pictures and videos. I would look upward from the bottom side of the knob or down from the top. Sorry I can't give a better answer.
Andy, my spring came off, I dont know where the other end hooks on, do you have a video on that, I dont know how to look it up ,tension spring always come up
The front end of the spring hooks onto the bottom of the Hinge Pin for the Vibrating Bracket in the Nose end. Here are a couple of videos that may help: ruclips.net/video/L9ZiWURPA-Q/видео.html ruclips.net/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/видео.html
Mr. Andy, I hope you are well. I recently purchased a 401a at a flea market. It needed a power cord which is easy to get. I have watched just about all of your videos on 401a's and love them but I have a problem, I cleaned this machine inside as much as possible without taking it apart. It was sewing a straight stitch and the stitch selector know was moving on both sides and then when I tried to get it to zigzag it wouldn't and the left side of the selector know won't move. I also have another problem, the spring came off at both ends and I can't find your video on how to reattach it. Please help if you can. I will be eternally grateful. I have tried to get my machine to look like yours inside but it doesn't.
Welcome to Andy Tube, Deanna. ZZ is a product of the cam stack, needle bar driving arm, and needle bar vibrating bracket. The nbda pushed the nbvb to swing the needle one way (zig) and the long spring pulls it all back (zag) if the long spring comes off either or both ends it can't pull the parts back so the nb is stuck to the side. Here is a model 403A video about the nbda and at 3:32 I start showing where the spring hooks near the base of the nbda ruclips.net/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/видео.html then a 403A video for the needle bar vibrating bracket shows where the other end of the spring attaches to a thin pin at about 8:27 ruclips.net/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/видео.html There is another video with detail about how the parts need to be set before attaching the spring near the base of the nbda. It's a model 503A but the parts are the same. watch at 6:10 ruclips.net/video/89kRREixTeA/видео.html I hope those parts of the videos give you enough info to get the spring back on properly. You may as well do that and retest the machine. I hope you oiled the machine properly so the parts can move correctly. This video of oiling a 503A may be helpful to you ruclips.net/video/zo3c9CTgVGg/видео.html You can download a FREE copy of the 401A Instruction Manual from SInger Support here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 It has a section on where to oil, too. While I'm at it you can go to this link and download a FREE copy of the Service Manual for model 401A sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It has all the adjustments and repair info for the whole machine
Hey Andy, I have followed your instructions to the t, and my rear follower keeps getting hung up, I can't see anything that will cause this, I have taken it apart several times and put it back together just like you showed.if I keep wiggle it it will sometimes move then it will all of sudden just get stuck and will not budge, please what am I doing wrong,it looks just like it did before I took it apart
Did you have this problem before you worked on the machine? Can't diagnose this without the machine on my bench. I would try to isolate which part/parts is/are hanging up. I suggest removing the rear follower to see if all other parts move normally. It may not be the rear follower causing the problem but only what you see when things hand up. If everything moves normally without the rear follower in place then you know it is the follower. Isolation!!.
The shaft screw on the end of the shaft in the back? Did you follow the screw removal sequence as shown? @16:00 I discuss holding down the rear lifter with your thumb while you loosen the rear screw. That lifter should be held onto the shaft with a screw onto the flat spot of the shaft so by holding down the lifter you prevent the shaft from turning. I'm I missing something here?
This is the one I’ve been waiting for! Thank you! I found it in the service manual but I much prefer to follow you doing it. Do you have a video on removing or oiling the main drive shaft in its guides? I’m most of the way through your 404 series and have referenced a couple from the 403 like removing the zig zag bracket that connects the sewing bar to the presser bar on my 401A
my main drive shaft if you mean the horizontal arm shaft I'm sorry I don't have a video I've never had to take one out. I think I'm glad of that as it is a time-consuming adventure, then after reinstalling you have to readjust many things. Of course, if you already have much of the connected bars and shafts off I guess it would not be too bad at that point. If you end up doing it I hope you record it and put on your channel. I'd love to see that being done and would be happy to refer my viewers to see it too!
Hi Andy. I’m in the middle of doing this as well as cleaning the cam shaft, which Btw will not release the cam plates. It’s been soaking in crud kudder. Now that everything is disassemble, what exactly do you use to clean the rest of the interior parts without taking them apart. Obviously I can’t soak it like each individual part unless I completely take everything out? And using cleaner, hew do you get the cleaning solution off
If you don't want to wash the whole machine then yes, you can spot clean it. Try removing as much grease and oil as you can with toothbrushes, bottle brushes, craft sticks, BBQ sticks, anything that can scrape the gunk off and out. If you want to use Krud Kutter try a 15 to 20% solution. Cover the bed of the machine b/c the KK can dull paint. Brush or apply the KK or other cleaner and scrub with brushes, Use rags to wipe out as much as you can. If you want to remove cleaning residue you can use plain water or alcohol and use rags to wipe it out also. I use old socks, like a puppet on my hand, and dip into the cleaning solution and wipe anything I can reach. A different sock dipped in water to wipe off the residue. It's a very slow process, which is why I pre-treat the machine with Krud Kudder, then take to the shower or utility sink, spray the innards with 15% KK, a little more scrubbing inside with a wheel brush or other small brushes, the wash off everything with water and blow dry the machine with a leaf blower and hairdryer before adding oil right away. It is just faster for me. I have several cleaning videos. My latest is about cleaning a machine without removing so many parts, as you mentioned. You have the biggest headache of cleaning, the stack, out already. Here is the video I'm talking about. ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html It is hours long, but the timeline at the bottom is broken into sections with descriptions and start times you can skip around and see what you want. You can play it at 1.5 or even 2 times speed, too.
Just finished all the cleaning and resetting the timing on needle and cam. Have to do a test sewing to see if all is well. I do have one question. Before I start trying to sew upholstery (reupholstering my couch and love seat), I don’t want to ruin the material, do you think this machine is up to the task of that heavy material? I really do not want to invest in a $1500 industrial walking foot if i don’t have to.
Andy I have a 421G and watched your video on removing and replacing the shaft , lifters and followers... Mine must have been dropped on it's head. I can't remove the shaft through the front wheel because the shaft is bent. When you turn the wheel it makes an elliptic arch. I haven't been able to find a source for a replacement part. Do you have any suggestions?
The 4xxG models were made in Germany. Looking at pictures they appear to be versions of the 401A made in the US. I've no idea if the parts are exactly the same between the A & G versions. No one is making those parts so we have to source vintage parts. I buy 90+% of my parts from sellers on eBay. You can usually find 2 to 4 sellers who are parting out a 401A. Just search eBay for Singer Model 401A and you will find some who are selling parts instead of the whole machine. Good luck.
@@papajoedh I'm surprised people need to replace that part that often. Good luck! Machines come and go. I don't know if the 500A machine has the exact same part. Maybe that's too risky. You better stick with the 401A
I don't think you'd ever find this spring for sale by itself. Usually, sellers who part out a machine sell a group of parts. If you knew anyone with a 401A or 500A and could "borrow" the spring to take to a hardware store they MAY (maybe) could find something similar that MIGHT work. I say the 500A because it has the same spring. I found a seller I have bought from a dozen times who has the knobs and spring for a 500A for $12.50 with free shipping. He is reliable. www.bonanza.com/listings/Singer-500A-Stitch-Control-Knobs-172521-172525-Spring/186901783 He does list is with OBO (or best offer) so maybe you can say you only want the spring, or offer $10 for the setup. Maybe he'd lower the price a little, but speaking as someone who has bought many vintage parts if I needed that spring I'd buy if even at $12.50. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel. BTW, the spring is part no.172126
I have a 411g that is very similar to the 401a. But the front selected knob doesn’t have those 2 screws in the front. It is just a smooth plastic knob. Any suggestions would be appreciated I always enjoy the videos, thanks.
I found a picture online. The German 400 class of slant needle machine, to me, are half-way between the American 401A & 500A models. On the 500A there are screws on the side of the front "pointy" knob, and two screws just inside the machine under the cover that allow the left index (pointer) pin and the right lifter to be removed. Maybe the 411G already had that setup. You can download a free Model 500A Service Manual (and a couple others) at this link to see what I'm talking about. I'm wagging this (wild a$$ guess) as I have never seen any of the German models in person and have no documents for them. Here is the link for the 500A manual; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf That's all I have and good luck.
Hi Andy, I don't believe there is this type of assembly behind the knob selector on a Singer Model 500A? It seems to me that on the Singer model 500A the knob has the pointer molded in and there are springs behind the knobs? Why is it always the right hand selector where you pull it out, front one, that causes problems and the left hand one usually works fine? Thanks, Kathy from Southeastern Arizona
The 500A set-up is actually very similar to the 401A. It also has a spring behind the front, pointed knob. You could use this video for the 500A I believe. The front knob has screws on the side, and the back knob is a little heavier but the 500A still has the same shaft, lifters, and followers. Same cam stack and needle bar driving arm, etc. I can't say about the knobs on other machines, but on Trouble, the rear knob was easier to pull and turn than the front one was to push and turn. Maybe b/c the rear knob is bigger, with more metal and the lifter is attached directly to it? sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Thanks for watching
You can download a free copy of the 500A Service Manual: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Page 35 shows how to remove the knobs/shafts. Maybe this will show the differences a little better. Thanks.
Yes. You adjust the rear bushing that the knob shaft goes into at the rear of the machine. Moving the bushing forward I think you can control how far the shaft goes back when pushing the front knob. It sounds like your lifter is traveling too far back and slips out. There is a setting for the knob on the front and that rear bushing and you use a feeler gauge to find the correct spots. The instructions are on page 139 on the Service Manual which is available free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 The manual is terribly written. The pictures are terrible. But, there is enough information to figure out how to do it by feel. I think it is adjusted so that it will not bind again. Thanks again, I could not have done it without your video.
@@mlucienteCycling Agree about the quality of the free copy. You can buy a much better copy on eBay to download for about $15 if you ever need it. From the language you used in your first comment I figured you would work through this and find the solution. Thanks for fixing your machine to keep it in service, and thanks for watching my channel.
ANDY... Ok here I go🧐.. About to get real personal with my 401A that I named after you 😂 Unfortunately, Andy Jr needs a little help... The stitch selector won't turn to the left or the right. Not even a little. I tried pulling the knob outwards, that's fine , everything seems to be in working order too AND guess what, The screws are jammed up too.! Jeepers Crow.. Theres no rust. .anyways... I didn't do the rubber glove trick tho it's FUNNY HA HA I'm 150% Environmental Advocate that goes to certifiable crazy lengths save the world from waste. So I laid Junior on it's side and put p oil on the top of screw holes. I don't have a blow dryer or a nice long adjustable diver like you do. Im going to lock my adjustable wrench onto my teeni tiny screwdriver to get some more leverage on the buggers.TBD I want to find sewing machine mechanic in Rhode Island. It's a dying profession I worked in the field
Hmm... you can buy a hair dryer (new) at Rhode Island Walmarts for $15 www.walmart.com/search?q=hair+dryer&facet=fulfillment_method_in_store%3AIn-store&max_price=19&sort=price_low Did you watch the videos in the Playlist I gave you in your earlier comment? It might help to look thru them a bit before you start working on the machine. Here is one for stuck knobs, a very common problem. It can be the parts the knobs control that are stuck with dried up oil and not the knobs themselves. WATCH: ruclips.net/video/6O2bpVg_o_w/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I did find your helpful video. I got it unstuck and commented. But I also discovered that my cam stack is on a tilt. I commented about that on the video. I'm assuming I'm going to have to remove and or adjust the eccentric thingy.. ?
@@lesabooth5243 Sorry, I've never encountered that. It's unusual. I don't have a video but suggest you download a FREE digital copy of the SERVICE MANUAL. Page 158 has info for the Camstack adjustments. I hope it will help. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Just bought my second 401a; once again, you rescued me from a new problem. The machine is dirty but runs well; main problem was a wobbly selector knob. You, Mr. Andy, are a true treasure: we all owe you a bunch! Thanks again!
@@jreese8284 congratulations those machines make a nice pair I'm glad the video helped you out with your new treasure I really appreciate your comment thank you
I am so happy to see this! My front switch selector knob has been wobbly or loose for a LOOONG time, and I can't loosen the screws. Now I know how! You are the best. Very thorough, and easygoing, so we can actually absorb what you're teaching.
thank you for the nice comment! All 17 of my model 401A videos are here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO Happy sewing in 2024.
Thanks Andy, over a year after you made the video I'm working on a 401 and just removed, cleaned and reinstalled the cam stack, the knobs, the lifters and followers. You're a great resource that just keeps giving. And I've got two more 401s to get to.
Thank you, Terry. The video that keeps giving (playing?) Thanks for saving those machines.
Terry, I'm in the same boat. These machines are some of the best, even better than todays new standards. These are strong and can do what todays machines can not unless you buy a beast industrial. To get one of the 400 or 500 series is where you can do almost anything you want.
Terry, I’m getting ready now to watch this as many times as it takes to do this with my 401A. Andy is so thorough that I have no doubt about a successful attempt!
I'm sure you'll be successful.
@@rhondamercado7527
Such an excellent, detailed tutorial. I am ready to remove, clean and reinstall the sticky, recalcitrant knobs and lifters of my 500A. I have already removed and cleaned the cam stack; the gear and cams were so stuck together that my husband thought they were one piece and therefore couldn’t possibly be separated. The application of some WD-40 and heat proved him wrong. 😀 I did experience flash rust on some of the cams, even though I started drying them as soon as I rinsed off the Krud Kutter. Next time I will rinse off just one cam, dry it and apply a light coating of oil before proceeding to the next.
You ARE ready, I can tell. You can do it too. The metal of the pattern cams is less treated than other metal parts and they can just bloom with flash rust one you strip the grease off. Wish I could have watched you with the WD40 and heat and bet your husband was impressed with your skills! It's good to be the Sewing Machine Mechanic in the family! Easy does it and enjoy seeing the knobs & lifters looking like new. Take Care.
Thanks, Andy. My back follower had jumped out of the lifter slot. After watching the video, I was able to get it working correctly. 🙂
Wow! Nicely done Mary. I'm glad you found the video and were able to get that nice machine back in service. I really appreciate your comment. Happy sewing!
Very well explained and now I am going to repair my 401G
Thank you for keeping your machine and service and good luck
Thanks Andy
, just completely stripped, degreased and polished my cam stack , followers and associated brackets on my 411. I have yet to reassemble but this video is such a help.
I'm so glad you found my video. It's rewarding to see how clean those parts can be and you'll be happy with how well they work when finished. Thanks for letting me know the technique can be applied to the 411G and I'll ad that in the description. Take care.
Just picked up a hopefully nice but obviously dirty 401a yesterday, so these videos are an AMAZING resource. Thanks for putting them together!
I'm glad you find them useful. Thanks for saving that machine. There are some videos in this playlist you may find helpful:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Also, chances are your foot controller needs some attention too. Here is a playlist for rehabbing it: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Good luck and happy (future) sewing.
Thanks for this video. I have 2 401a ‘s and 2 501a’s I’m going to do thanks to this video ❤
Thank you Shirley. I hope it goes well for you and thanks for watching my channel
Hi Andy. I had already done everything in this video before you posted it. I'm not bragging -- I want to mention that I put the shaft back in with the flat spot down because that's the way it was in when I took it out. After watching your video, I immediately changed the shaft to put the flat spot up. It did make a difference! The pointer on the left on the front now sits at "A" when I put it at "A" and at "B" when I put it at "B", etc. With the flat side down on the shaft, the pointer would sit half way between "A" and "B" when it was actually in the slot for "B" and so forth all the way down. I just thought Singer sometimes was not so precise; everything else worked well. So thanks! Of course, I'm looking forward to all your future videos.
Maybe you should brag a little bit! It's not an easy task to remove and replace all those fiddley parts. Nicely done. It's so interesting to read your comment about the flat spot on the shaft! When I pulled mine out the flat spot was facing up, and I did not give it much thought. I wonder which was is correct? The parts diagram does not show a flat spot, and the Service Manual does not mention it. My machine has many signs of being worked on, too. Based on your experience, I'm going with the flat spot up b/c you had a positive result on the indicator pins from changing it to that position. Carole, have you ever thought of recording your own videos for RUclips? You are getting quite a bit of experience working on these machines, and you have some great instincts and comments. Just a thought. Viewers always enjoy a new perspective. I'm going to pin your comment to the top here in case other viewers have this question about the shaft. Thank you for sharing on my channel. "See" you again soon, I hope.
Thanks for the suggestion about recording some videos on RUclips. I am so far away from recording anything! I haven't taken still pictures of anything, either, but that I can start to do, even though I'm terrible with anything linked to photography. I am going to start taking some pictures of the machines I have refurbished, both inside and outside of the machines. I have some fine-looking, beautiful, well-running and adjusted machines now, and they did not start out that way. Well, now I am bragging a bit. Looking forward to your next video on setting the index pins, setting the arm stops, and zeroing out the machine.
@@carolemagnusson5044 I'd love to see you post some of your machines on YT. I know they are beautiful. The nice thing about YT is you can load a video, even from the app on your cellphone if you have one, and you decide the settings. You can make it public like me, or unlisted so only people you give the link to can watch or set the video to private so only you can see it. That way you can play with it and critic your lighting, angles and so forth. There is free music from YT and free audio editing software too. When you are ready and have time you might enjoy it. I'm starting to film the index pins and hope to have it up by Friday evening. We'll see as I have a treatment Thursday. Thank you as always for watching my channel and for your support.
I got this one cleaned up and running. I still need to tinker with it and adjust it but thank you for the Sklematic! As with my 457 with out the help of your PDFs and some advice and parts I'd be unable to make a stitch.
I'm glad it's working out for you.
Oh, I need your experienced advice!
In the repair book for the Rocketeer you sent me it states remove the screw (A4) from the stop motion nut (B4) then remove the clamp.(C4) the the hand wheel assembly
My question to you is how in heck do I remove the B4 after I remove the A4? Do I pull, turn or am I not understanding that the screw I remove A4 is holding B4 and the B4 is the stop motion nut, the tan or off white portion of the hand wheel?
@@sharellfox-ralston1958 Easy does it! Are you talking about a model 457K? In general, the A4 screw is to keep the stop motion from unscrewing all the way when you put the machine in bobbin winding mode. By removing A4 you can turn B4 to the left until it unscrews from the Arm Shaft Bushing and comes completely off the machine. 👍
@@andytubesewing1953 i am working on the Rocketeer. And you've answered my question when you wrote to unscrew to the left! I had no way to know and was afraid I'd make it tighter.. thanks for your prompt reply and your help. Be well..
@@sharellfox-ralston1958 OK, good. B4 is identified as a "nut". 99% of nuts & screws & bolts unscrew to the left to remove. Lefty loose righty tight. Just like you did to screw A4.
Hahaha! 21:25; you betcha I was itching to get into this! So now everything is out except the bight pins! Ground zero on the rebuild! Thanks for the awesome, Andy! All I gotta do now is put it back together, set everything, and then get it purring like a mechanical kitten! Okay, mechanical tiger!
Surprising how much space is in the arm once all is out. It was fun to do for sure. Good luck, Jeb, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks as always Andy! Hope all is well!
Hello. Hello. Can anyone tell me where the spring attaches toward the front of the machine? Thank you.
So nice, thank you very much. You have taken the mystery out of everything up top with both of your videos. You're the best.
Thanks very much. Download the manual I mentioned in my reply to your other comment today. You'll have all the adjustment, removal & replacement instructions at your fingertips just a mouse click away. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you again. Have a wonderful day.
@@vladimirnekic3241 😃👍
I have removed many screws and bolts that were very difficult. The best method I have found from decades of experience and watching dozens of mechanical videos is to let penetrating oil work overnight and then turn to the right and left, back and forth to break it free.
We appreciate your sharing your decades of experience with this method. Dennis, thanks very much
Your videos are so helpful. I just reset the timer on my 401a. Thank you! Previously I unfroze the design buttons again thanks to your videos.
Thanks for this comment. That's exactly why i make my videos. I'm glad you found them and congrats for working on your own machine!
Hey, Andy, awesome video as always! I have two 401’s that I have cleaned up and lubed. I had found a video for doing the cam stack, but could never find one like this for my gummed up knobs, lifters and followers. I was definitely not confident enough to try it on my own. So thanks a million, again! It looks very do-able now, and I was glad you left the parts in where you had minor challenges, so that I’ll be prepared. Take care, from Winslow!
Thank you! A special thanks for your appreciation of the challenging parts, haha. I've watched some videos and things go so smoothly it makes me wonder what is wrong with me? You can clean these parts up for sure. I'm working on videos for the index pins, setting the stops for the travel of the cam selector shaft and maybe the instructions of how to "zero-out" the machine. Thanks for watching.
WELL DONE ANDY !!! Was hopping to find something regarding the needle position lever but none of the links, to your previous videos, you gave nor this one could help set that of my machine right... THANK YOU ALL THE SAME... Always glad to watch you reviving those metal pieces :-)
It seems you have a few problems with your machine. I'll list some reverences for you on model 611 that may help you and others following your comments. Maybe they can be of help. FREE Instruction Manual: www.singer.com/search/support?title=611
$9.00 Service Manual download; manualsoncd.com/product/singer-611-sewing-machine-service-manual/
$22.00 Full professionally printed copy of Service Manual: www.ebay.com/c/1348562806
FREE downloadable Service Manuals for Models 401A, 403A, 404, 500A, 503A can be found on this page:
sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/page/1/
The model in my videos, 401A, was two generations before your 611. The 600 class machines went to the slide levers to select patterns to replace the knobs. However, many parts were still similar/same as in any mechanical device. Like a car still has a steering wheel, driveshaft, differential, windshield wipers, etc., the Singer machines of the 600 class still have a needle bar driving arm, cam stack, vibrating bracket, feed system, drive system, etc. The manuals for the 400 & 500 class may give you insight into how to work on your model without buying a Service Manual. Of course, the Serice manual for model 611 will have the exact information for the model and parts. I often buy service manuals when I am not familiar with the model. or some parts of the model as it saves a lot of time and frustration. The 611 Service Manual is about 50 pages full of information with directions and pictures for adjusting, remove or installing almost every single part on the machine. I hope you can get your machine running the way you want, I admire your persistence and I thank you for saving it from the scrapheap.
Cada dia veo los videos y super asombrada..eres genial!!
Gracias por ver mi canal.
thank you very much! your videos are priceless!
🙏😊
Amazing, I just got a 401A... I'm not mechanically minded... but you have helped me get my machine up and running... my cleaning job is not as deluxe as yours... but I'm learning 😊 ... my motor seems sluggish to start with the new foot pedal (I ordered a new one)...I use the hand wheel to boost motor and takes off just fine... any suggestions, thanks, Julie
We don't know the history of the machine. We don't know what work was done on it or which parts, if any, were replaced.
Maybe there is binding on parts of the machine (more in a minute). I have found that cleaning a 60+-year-old machine like this can eliminate most of the problems.
At the very least the machine needs a complete oiling as shown in the Instruction Manual which you can download for free from SInger Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 I've had machines arrive completely frozen. I've oiled and heated the moving parts with a hairdryer to get it moving, then did a "Run In" meaning run at a moderate to higher speed for at least 3 minutes.
The machine may have never had a proper cleaning. Sometimes 60 years of oiling has settled into all the bushings and bearings and gotten very hard at the low spots. With some new oil, the old oil can get soft and tacky and slow things down even when it gets movable.
In the Service Manual on page 161 is a list of 27 things to check if the machine is slow and binds.
You can download a free copy of the manual from the Sewing Dude's Blod here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I went down this rabbit hole before. It's really time-consuming. I got to the point it was just quicker to take parts of the machine and wash it in the shower.
After hearing from folks who did not want to or did not feel able to remove so many parts I made a video about cleaning the machine with fewer parts removing: ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html It's still a process.
If you want to just try and get it moving better than oil per the manual and heat the parts where you put oil. A faster way is to put in kerosene instead of oil and run the machine. Then you have to put in enough oil to flush the kerosene.
Here are two playlists of videos, a total of 44 videos, about working on your type of machine:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Good LUck.
Thank you soooooooooooooooo much.
No problem and good luck, Deanna
@@andytubesewing1953 I think I will stay with my black beauties, I have several singer that only sew a straight stitch but they aren't complicated to clean and oil.
@@deannalindsey889 Sure. The 401A is about the most complicated vintage Singer model to maintain. Newer cared for it much myself. My wife who has sewn for 50+ years felt how you do until she watched me restore the Singer 301A and 404. She just fell in love with those slant needle machines. The 404 has the same motor power and slant as the 401A and it is more heavy-duty and just sews straight stitches. The 301A is her daily machine (see my playlist for "Coco") which has even fewer parts (in-line hook system) and was the first slant needle. She likes that Singer moved the needle closer to the sewist and uses a taller foot so she can see the work area better. She has owned the 15K, 66, 99K, and 201-2, but just doesn't use them any longer. It's just a matter of preference I think as you can't go wrong with any black vintage Singer model. Happy sewing.
Hi Andy thanks for your videos, it helped me a lot with my slant o matic 411G. I followed carefully this video to remove, clean and reassamble but I have a question about the shaft. Is it normal for my shaft to move toward the back of the machine (I can then see some of it outside in the back then) when i push the selector knob to move my selector from A to J? and then when I pull my selector knob to move from K to R, then the shaft moves back in.
when I took out my shaft, the little black "tube" in the back of the machine (in which the shaft goes into) move some (it could move either towards the back or towards the inside): is it what causes that shaft movement during the changes of stitches with the selector. Thanks in advance for your help
I've never seen or worked on a 411G, but I can answer your questions based on the parts of the 401A & 500A.
1. Yes, it is normal (and required) that the shaft moves out & in on the back of the machine. You can see this happen a few times in the video. If it did not move you could not select the different pattern on the cam stack.
2. The black "tube" is called the "Stop Bushing". b/c it allows the shaft to slide through it as the shaft moves. Stop because it can be adjusted to Stop the movement of the shaft going out the back at the best point to make the Lifters work correctly.
3. The Stop Bushing should be stationary and should NOT have moved when you pulled out the shaft. The Stop Busing is held in place by a set screw directly above it. If your Stop Bushing moved that means the set screw was loose or missing.
4 Here is a video that explains how to adjust the Stops for the Shaft so the knobs can work properly to move the lifters ruclips.net/video/p_EZnA7d83Q/видео.html
Andy have you tried cleaning stainless steel parts in an instant pot? The IP can be used as an autoclave.
@@SusanJohnson-u7b Don't own an instant pot so I never tried it it sounds fantastic I'm hoping you'll do a video thanks for watching my channel and mentioning your method
@@andytubesewing1953 I have also used my (inexpensive) dehydrator to dry parts, it's like a blow dryer with racks and is hands free.
Interesante tema sobre éste modelo de máquina! Sería genial si fuera en español
Sería GENIAL si aprendieras a cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos al español para poder ver este u otros videos con subtítulos en español. Gracias por aprender algo nuevo hoy.
¿Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en RUclips?
ruclips.net/video/Q-6_7_dbhRo/видео.html
Teléfono Android: Cómo cambiar el idioma de los subtítulos en la aplicación RUclips
ruclips.net/video/KPSgueF_Cpg/видео.html
También puede usar Google Translate para traducir sus comentarios en español al idioma del video que está comentando.
translate.google.com/
Andy - yet another amazing video. You helped me get my “completely stuck” lifters unstuck! Yay! And (probably more importantly) I could get it back together. You were right about getting pictures from many angles. That also saved my bacon.
Question - there’s a spring that stretches the length of the machine. I know one side goes to a positioner behind the large vertical needle bar positioning guide (that’s moved w/the 1 - 5 adjustments w the front lever). Where does the other half go? Mine came completely off.
Also, you’ve mentioned a paypal account previously - could you share that? You’ve helped me restore three vintage machines now and saved me a LOT of money. Honestly, I’d have stopped at the first one without your videos.
Thanks Again!
I think I found where the spring goes. There was a post with a notch and nothing attached there - the post is to the left of and slightly behind the presser foot pressure dial. Given how easily it fell out and the fact that there was nothing in the notch, I assumed that's where it goes. Seems to work!
Yes, absolutely correct. The Needle Bar Driving Arm Return Spring is what it is called and that little post is on the Vibrating Bracket.
You are getting the idea now, Marya. Nicely done. You can do all the adjusting, cleaning on the machine, no worries. I hope you are finding it fun and rewarding to be fixing your own machine.
Hi Andy it's me and I'm so happy you answer my questions. I'm watching this one as I type, though my machine is a 500.. is there any differences in the 500a ?
The 500A does have different types of knobs, but all the mechanics are the same as far as these parts. The presser bar system of the 500A is more complicated, IMO, and it also has a weird "thread puller" system next to the take-up lever that SInger never used again. I also have a playlist for model 503A that can help with the 500A ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX
Hi, could you please help me, I have a Singer 431 G it’s very similar but one difference is that the selector knob doesn’t have any screws on the face of it. My knob is wobbly so I know from your video that I need to tighten the screw underneath it, but how does the knob on the 431 com off?
I've never even seen a 431G here, only pictures and videos. I would look upward from the bottom side of the knob or down from the top. Sorry I can't give a better answer.
Andy, my spring came off, I dont know where the other end hooks on, do you have a video on that, I dont know how to look it up ,tension spring always come up
The front end of the spring hooks onto the bottom of the Hinge Pin for the Vibrating Bracket in the Nose end.
Here are a couple of videos that may help: ruclips.net/video/L9ZiWURPA-Q/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/видео.html
Mr. Andy, I hope you are well. I recently purchased a 401a at a flea market. It needed a power cord which is easy to get. I have watched just about all of your videos on 401a's and love them but I have a problem, I cleaned this machine inside as much as possible without taking it apart. It was sewing a straight stitch and the stitch selector know was moving on both sides and then when I tried to get it to zigzag it wouldn't and the left side of the selector know won't move. I also have another problem, the spring came off at both ends and I can't find your video on how to reattach it. Please help if you can. I will be eternally grateful. I have tried to get my machine to look like yours inside but it doesn't.
Welcome to Andy Tube, Deanna. ZZ is a product of the cam stack, needle bar driving arm, and needle bar vibrating bracket. The nbda pushed the nbvb to swing the needle one way (zig) and the long spring pulls it all back (zag) if the long spring comes off either or both ends it can't pull the parts back so the nb is stuck to the side. Here is a model 403A video about the nbda and at 3:32 I start showing where the spring hooks near the base of the nbda ruclips.net/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/видео.html then a 403A video for the needle bar vibrating bracket shows where the other end of the spring attaches to a thin pin at about 8:27 ruclips.net/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/видео.html
There is another video with detail about how the parts need to be set before attaching the spring near the base of the nbda. It's a model 503A but the parts are the same. watch at 6:10 ruclips.net/video/89kRREixTeA/видео.html I hope those parts of the videos give you enough info to get the spring back on properly. You may as well do that and retest the machine. I hope you oiled the machine properly so the parts can move correctly. This video of oiling a 503A may be helpful to you ruclips.net/video/zo3c9CTgVGg/видео.html
You can download a FREE copy of the 401A Instruction Manual from SInger Support here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 It has a section on where to oil, too. While I'm at it you can go to this link and download a FREE copy of the Service Manual for model 401A sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It has all the adjustments and repair info for the whole machine
Hey Andy, I have followed your instructions to the t, and my rear follower keeps getting hung up, I can't see anything that will cause this, I have taken it apart several times and put it back together just like you showed.if I keep wiggle it it will sometimes move then it will all of sudden just get stuck and will not budge, please what am I doing wrong,it looks just like it did before I took it apart
Did you have this problem before you worked on the machine? Can't diagnose this without the machine on my bench. I would try to isolate which part/parts is/are hanging up. I suggest removing the rear follower to see if all other parts move normally. It may not be the rear follower causing the problem but only what you see when things hand up. If everything moves normally without the rear follower in place then you know it is the follower. Isolation!!.
Very nice video I am trying to take this knob off but when I try to loosen the shaft screw the shaft just spins any ideas ? Thanks
The shaft screw on the end of the shaft in the back? Did you follow the screw removal sequence as shown? @16:00 I discuss holding down the rear lifter with your thumb while you loosen the rear screw. That lifter should be held onto the shaft with a screw onto the flat spot of the shaft so by holding down the lifter you prevent the shaft from turning. I'm I missing something here?
@@andytubesewing1953 I had not followed the sequence and removed the set screw first . Thanks I was able to remove the shaft screw
@@samchapjoe2001 Glad it was an easy fix then. Thanks for keeping the machine running. Good Luck.
This is the one I’ve been waiting for! Thank you! I found it in the service manual but I much prefer to follow you doing it. Do you have a video on removing or oiling the main drive shaft in its guides? I’m most of the way through your 404 series and have referenced a couple from the 403 like removing the zig zag bracket that connects the sewing bar to the presser bar on my 401A
my main drive shaft if you mean the horizontal arm shaft I'm sorry I don't have a video I've never had to take one out. I think I'm glad of that as it is a time-consuming adventure, then after reinstalling you have to readjust many things. Of course, if you already have much of the connected bars and shafts off I guess it would not be too bad at that point. If you end up doing it I hope you record it and put on your channel. I'd love to see that being done and would be happy to refer my viewers to see it too!
Hi Andy. I’m in the middle of doing this as well as cleaning the cam shaft, which Btw will not release the cam plates. It’s been soaking in crud kudder. Now that everything is disassemble, what exactly do you use to clean the rest of the interior parts without taking them apart. Obviously I can’t soak it like each individual part unless I completely take everything out? And using cleaner, hew do you get the cleaning solution off
If you don't want to wash the whole machine then yes, you can spot clean it. Try removing as much grease and oil as you can with toothbrushes, bottle brushes, craft sticks, BBQ sticks, anything that can scrape the gunk off and out. If you want to use Krud Kutter try a 15 to 20% solution. Cover the bed of the machine b/c the KK can dull paint. Brush or apply the KK or other cleaner and scrub with brushes, Use rags to wipe out as much as you can. If you want to remove cleaning residue you can use plain water or alcohol and use rags to wipe it out also. I use old socks, like a puppet on my hand, and dip into the cleaning solution and wipe anything I can reach. A different sock dipped in water to wipe off the residue. It's a very slow process, which is why I pre-treat the machine with Krud Kudder, then take to the shower or utility sink, spray the innards with 15% KK, a little more scrubbing inside with a wheel brush or other small brushes, the wash off everything with water and blow dry the machine with a leaf blower and hairdryer before adding oil right away. It is just faster for me. I have several cleaning videos. My latest is about cleaning a machine without removing so many parts, as you mentioned. You have the biggest headache of cleaning, the stack, out already. Here is the video I'm talking about.
ruclips.net/video/kXZHksK7rGQ/видео.html It is hours long, but the timeline at the bottom is broken into sections with descriptions and start times you can skip around and see what you want. You can play it at 1.5 or even 2 times speed, too.
Just finished all the cleaning and resetting the timing on needle and cam. Have to do a test sewing to see if all is well. I do have one question. Before I start trying to sew upholstery (reupholstering my couch and love seat), I don’t want to ruin the material, do you think this machine is up to the task of that heavy material? I really do not want to invest in a $1500 industrial walking foot if i don’t have to.
Andy I have a 421G and watched your video on removing and replacing the shaft , lifters and followers... Mine must have been dropped on it's head. I can't remove the shaft through the front wheel because the shaft is bent. When you turn the wheel it makes an elliptic arch. I haven't been able to find a source for a replacement part. Do you have any suggestions?
The 4xxG models were made in Germany. Looking at pictures they appear to be versions of the 401A made in the US. I've no idea if the parts are exactly the same between the A & G versions. No one is making those parts so we have to source vintage parts. I buy 90+% of my parts from sellers on eBay. You can usually find 2 to 4 sellers who are parting out a 401A. Just search eBay for Singer Model 401A and you will find some who are selling parts instead of the whole machine. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks I'll give that a shot. Great series for the slant needles.
@@papajoedh After I replied I looked at eBay and found two sellers listing the parts you mentioned. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 looking right now... 4 sold out out so far. I'll keep looking. 😀
@@papajoedh I'm surprised people need to replace that part that often. Good luck! Machines come and go. I don't know if the 500A machine has the exact same part. Maybe that's too risky. You better stick with the 401A
the video was great. but when I took my knob off I had no spring. I looked on ebay for one and no luck. Could you suggest a place to find one? Thanks
I don't think you'd ever find this spring for sale by itself. Usually, sellers who part out a machine sell a group of parts. If you knew anyone with a 401A or 500A and could "borrow" the spring to take to a hardware store they MAY (maybe) could find something similar that MIGHT work. I say the 500A because it has the same spring. I found a seller I have bought from a dozen times who has the knobs and spring for a 500A for $12.50 with free shipping. He is reliable. www.bonanza.com/listings/Singer-500A-Stitch-Control-Knobs-172521-172525-Spring/186901783 He does list is with OBO (or best offer) so maybe you can say you only want the spring, or offer $10 for the setup. Maybe he'd lower the price a little, but speaking as someone who has bought many vintage parts if I needed that spring I'd buy if even at $12.50. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel. BTW, the spring is part no.172126
I have a 411g that is very similar to the 401a. But the front selected knob doesn’t have those 2 screws in the front. It is just a smooth plastic knob. Any suggestions would be appreciated I always enjoy the videos, thanks.
I found a picture online. The German 400 class of slant needle machine, to me, are half-way between the American 401A & 500A models. On the 500A there are screws on the side of the front "pointy" knob, and two screws just inside the machine under the cover that allow the left index (pointer) pin and the right lifter to be removed. Maybe the 411G already had that setup. You can download a free Model 500A Service Manual (and a couple others) at this link to see what I'm talking about. I'm wagging this (wild a$$ guess) as
I have never seen any of the German models in person and have no documents for them. Here is the link for the 500A manual;
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
That's all I have and good luck.
Thanks I got it and found the 401a service manual as well. It will be valuable to me as I have a 401 too that needs restoring
@@vsmetc7305 Excellent! thank you for saving those machines.
Hi Andy, I don't believe there is this type of assembly behind the knob selector on a Singer Model 500A? It seems to me that on the Singer model 500A the knob has the pointer molded in and there are springs behind the knobs? Why is it always the right hand selector where you pull it out, front one, that causes problems and the left hand one usually works fine? Thanks, Kathy from Southeastern Arizona
The 500A set-up is actually very similar to the 401A. It also has a spring behind the front, pointed knob. You could use this video for the 500A I believe. The front knob has screws on the side, and the back knob is a little heavier but the 500A still has the same shaft, lifters, and followers. Same cam stack and needle bar driving arm, etc. I can't say about the knobs on other machines, but on Trouble, the rear knob was easier to pull and turn than the front one was to push and turn. Maybe b/c the rear knob is bigger, with more metal and the lifter is attached directly to it? sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Thanks for watching
You can download a free copy of the 500A Service Manual: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf Page 35 shows how to remove the knobs/shafts. Maybe this will show the differences a little better. Thanks.
My rear lifter disengages from the follower causing the selector knob to freeze. Is there any way to adjust this?
Yes. You adjust the rear bushing that the knob shaft goes into at the rear of the machine. Moving the bushing forward I think you can control how far the shaft goes back when pushing the front knob. It sounds like your lifter is traveling too far back and slips out. There is a setting for the knob on the front and that rear bushing and you use a feeler gauge to find the correct spots. The instructions are on page 139 on the Service Manual which is available free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks!
@@mlucienteCycling Sure, Martin, no worries. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 The manual is terribly written. The pictures are terrible. But, there is enough information to figure out how to do it by feel. I think it is adjusted so that it will not bind again. Thanks again, I could not have done it without your video.
@@mlucienteCycling Agree about the quality of the free copy. You can buy a much better copy on eBay to download for about $15 if you ever need it. From the language you used in your first comment I figured you would work through this and find the solution. Thanks for fixing your machine to keep it in service, and thanks for watching my channel.
ANDY... Ok here I go🧐.. About to get real personal with my 401A that I named after you 😂
Unfortunately, Andy Jr needs a little help...
The stitch selector won't turn to the left or the right. Not even a little. I tried pulling the knob outwards, that's fine , everything seems to be in working order too
AND guess what,
The screws are jammed up too.! Jeepers Crow..
Theres no rust. .anyways...
I didn't do the rubber glove trick tho it's FUNNY HA HA
I'm 150% Environmental Advocate that goes to certifiable crazy lengths save the world from waste.
So I laid Junior on it's side and put p oil on the top of screw holes.
I don't have a blow dryer or a nice long adjustable diver like you do.
Im going to lock my adjustable wrench onto my teeni tiny screwdriver to get some more leverage on the buggers.TBD
I want to find sewing machine mechanic in Rhode Island.
It's a dying profession I worked in the field
Hmm... you can buy a hair dryer (new) at Rhode Island Walmarts for $15 www.walmart.com/search?q=hair+dryer&facet=fulfillment_method_in_store%3AIn-store&max_price=19&sort=price_low
Did you watch the videos in the Playlist I gave you in your earlier comment? It might help to look thru them a bit before you start working on the machine. Here is one for stuck knobs, a very common problem. It can be the parts the knobs control that are stuck with dried up oil and not the knobs themselves. WATCH: ruclips.net/video/6O2bpVg_o_w/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I did find your helpful video. I got it unstuck and commented. But I also discovered that my cam stack is on a tilt. I commented about that on the video. I'm assuming I'm going to have to remove and or adjust the eccentric thingy.. ?
@@lesabooth5243 Sorry, I've never encountered that. It's unusual. I don't have a video but suggest you download a FREE digital copy of the SERVICE MANUAL. Page 158 has info for the Camstack adjustments. I hope it will help.
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Genial!!
Thank you for watching my channel.