Preparation is the key. For a week in advance you should practice cussing and swearing so the words come easily when the cutting starts. Oh and buy 2 to 3 times as much crown molding as you need so you have sufficient to finish the job as you are going to find you have the perfect angle on the short stub and the wrong angle on the long piece. Then when you finally get the cuts right you will find the corner is 88.4 degrees and not ninety. Better still tell your wife that you don't think crown molding suits your house.
FINALLY someone showing beveled and mitered cuts. All these channels showing holding the piece upside down against the fence on a 12" tiny sample piece. Without a jig know how hard it is to keep a 10' piece on that fence for a good cut? Holding it flat and securing is 10x easier.
Outstanding explanation on this topic - if you are using a compound miter saw, this video covers, in simple, easy to follow step-by-step how to do the inside and outside corners. I watched a number of videos and this is the easiest to follow. I made a small recap of the video to be able to quickly reference it in the future, along with the video. **Compound Miter Saw Bevel: 33.9 degrees Miter: 31.6 degrees For the below, crown goes FLAT on the saw rather than against the saw and fence as if it were being put in place Outside Corners Left side of outside corner: Swing blade to the left Bottom edge of molding against fence Right side of workpiece is your molding Right side of outside corner: Swing blade to the right Top edge of molding against fence Right side of workpiece is molding Inside Corners: Left side of inside corner: Table swings right Top of molding against fence Left side of workpiece is what you keep Right side of inside corner: Table swings left Bottom of piece against fence Left side of workpiece is what you keep Thank you!
Have had this for 4 + years. I do high end finish carpentry and with the Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Sliding Miter Saw Blade it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe . I've had many fellow carpenters make positive comments after borrowing it. Pluses; Sturdy fence, great capacity, low deflection, work lights (Not a gimmick), great dust collection, still as smooth as when i first got it, easy tilt. Minuses ; my digital readout is not accurate(don't use it anyway), heavy.
Best DYI video I have ever watched. I am a once every 4-5 year crown molding guy andnusually forget everything. Made 8 cuts using his method of laying flat on saw and using compound miter saw with his recommended degrees of cut and bevel and all were 100% correct. Tips - clearly mark TOP then I use a digital laser tape measure so get very accurate measurements. Second you must visualize the left and right cuts in each inside or outside corner cut...he is not talking about the left and right end of the board. If you follow this thinking then you got it.
For anyone needing to take the easiest notes. Just screenshot the angle he cuts and insert a text in that pic if it's for right inside or left inside. Or right outside/left outside. Makes it 1000Xs easier to just reflect back on screenshots with text to set my bevel/miter cuts. Thanks for the video! Very, extremely helpful and to the point
Thanks a ton for the angles. I know for normal carpenters the flat angles of an outside edge of crown are probably second nature, but to a DIY-er that's tough to figure out. You did it for me thank you!
Thank you! By far the best video I’ve watched for crown molding. Was able to finish crown in our bathroom while husband was at work! I wrote shortcuts directly on my workbench to reference (and check twice) for each cut! Ex. RO- Bevel left 33.9 ,Miter Right 31.6, Top on Fence, Save Right!
i’m very new to wood working and bought a compound sliding miter saw . my very first project was o make a new fireplace mantle. i didn’t have a jig to cut crown molding seated in place at the correct and decided to cut flat . your video helped me through my project. i have since made a jig to hold the crown molding in place on future projects. 😊
Thank you. Laying large crown molding flat and doing a little math (that is already done for you) vs. the jackwagon finish carpenters trying to hold stock at 45 deg by hand is a game changer. Over and over they talk about the "simple" way. Simple way to become a cautionary tale.
Thank you so much. My crown moulding cuts were all bad cuts and I was running out of material. I could not find out what I was doing wrong! I looked at over 20 RUclips videos and nobody seem to explain the cut you just did. Thank you for explainining it and posting this video. Great help!!
This is one of the clearest and to the point video's I have seen yet on this subject. Was looking for "how to" for 4 1/2' molding laying flat for cuts. My saw does not have a tall enough fence. Thank you.
I have seen so many videos, and have always cut placing the crown on a 45 deg angle against the fence. This is so much more precise in my opinion. Thanks!
Hallelujah! Your clear and concise instructions were essential in helping me correctly cut my crown without having to buy a jig that I'll likely never use again. THANK YOU!
This is the first video I viewed which shows the alternative way to cut crown corners, i.e. laying boards flat. Knowing this (on my first project) would've saved me countless hours of trial and error trying to hold the crown in position using my relatively cheap mitre saw. I was ready to buy a new saw and jig for my new crown project till I learned this. Saved me $$, thanks!
Thank you for this video...it is the one that finally helped me figure out how to cut inside corners on crown molding using the lay it flat method. Miter Right, Top @ Fence, and Miter Left, Bottom @ Fence, both with unchanged bevel. RT and BL. Awesome.
Wow thank you for breaking that down quickly and easily! Soo helpful! All other videos I found never mentioned the bevel angle specifically which was messing me up. Thanks again!
This has truly saved me from a major headache. I knew there had to be another way to do it besides the common method everyone else is using. To me this is much simpler and easier. Thank you!!!
Kudos for the show-as-you-go tutorial with the saw and angle cuts.. unfortunately, beginners need the video, saw, and moulding to practice along with you!. In 60 seconds, our memories will self- destruct!🥴
After watching this I went down to my workroom and made four template pieces. The two sides of both an inside and outside corner. I carefully labeled the table position "left 45/right 45" and if the piece was to the left or right of the blade. Now I can use these to recreate the needed cuts with less chance of getting something reversed or wrong.
Thanks for the video. I was able to cut the short pieces I needed using ur directions. I only have a small 7inch miter saw so cutting the crown flat was my only option.
awsome video - clear concise, best one I have viewed. The left and right side on the inside cut are however reversed (as in when he says the left side, he means right side, and when he say right he means left) - but this did help tremendously.
@woodworkersJournal - an excellent and very useful video. Posting it was a public service. How do you adjust these settings if your corners are not 90 degrees?
This is a great video, but you should include one caveat. The 31.6 and 33.9 work with the "standard" 52/38 deg molding, but does not work with other angled styles. The molding I got for a project seems to be a 45/45 instead. Its not easy to eyeball the difference between 45 and 52, so I didnt really know. I laid a scrap piece inside a 90deg corner and moved it until it fit pretty flush, and then marked where the molding first touched the wall closest to the inside corner of the wall. Also marked where it touched the ceiling, closest to the inside corner again. I measured each, and they were each about 3.125 from the corner. Since the triangle I created had equal legs, and one angle was a 90, both the other angles were 45s. In case anyone sees this - the numbers for 45deg molding at a 90deg corner are 35.3 miter, and 30.0 bevel. I think the instructions in the video still work as far as where to put the top of your piece, and which side of the cut you keep. There are also charts you can lookup online for angles other than 90deg in case your walls arent straight.
Hi! I have a smaller (7 1/4”) Kobalt, laser-guided compound single-bevel sliding mitre saw. Because the blade is rather small and the saw’s fence isn’t very tall I can’t spring my crown molding up against it for quick beveled cuts. I must flat cut everything and use the saw’s beveling capability to get my beveled cut angles correct. Here’s my issue: I’m trying to find out the correct “bevel” setting for my blade for an outside 90 degree “bullnose” corner cut. Again, my saw will only flat-cut. I know I need to end up with three total pieces of crown molding (left side, pie-shaped transition piece and right side piece). I also know there will be four cuts at the 22.5 degree mitre setting. However, what should the bevel setting be for my blade? I’ve tried messing around with different settings (starting with 22.5 degrees) but my pieces never line up correctly when I go to put them up and place them around the outside 90 degree bull-nosed corner. Any help would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks! Bill
Thank you so much for the video! So you can make all the basic crown cuts with a Single bevel? I have the Dewalt 20v miter that I love but it is only single bevel. Any advice would help. Thank you for your helpful video!
The bevel was tilted to the left and never moved the bottom part was the one that was rotated left and right. So it seems if your saw tilts to the left your good follow the video. I'm getting a single bevel saw this week and have a project for installing crown ill be following his videos as well.
@@mrchillpill8625 wait 🤔 if you only have a single-bevel comp miter saw you'd have to flip your material upside down in order to make that other bevel cut. That's the whole concept of having a dual-miter comp saw. So one doesn't have to turn it upside down.
I've been trying this flat method and either my molding is messed up of my saw is junk. Not once has it actually worked. I wish I knew someone that could give me the numbers for fence cuts for inside corners
I'm doing inisde corners in my bathroom. I tested this flat method on some scrap pieces from a previous job and here is what works. Preliminary (Place a piece of tape at the top of the molding and write TOP on it) 1. Set the Bevel first at 33.9 degrees, with the blade tilted left. Set and Forget. No need to change Bevel during the process. 2. Inside Right Corner - Top of Crown molding goes against the fence with the molding laying flat on the base. 3. Move miter handle to the Right and set at 31.6 degrees. - Scrap piece is to your Right. - Work Piece is to your Left. - Make your Cut and keep your work piece from the Left side. Set aside the scrap piece from your right. 4. Measure the wall from corner to corner. 5. Mark your work piece to be cut at that same wall measurement, measuring along the long side, which should be the bottom of the molding. Once step six below is set up, use the light or laser mark on your saw to line up with your measured mark on the long side. 6. Left Inside Corner - Bottom of Crown molding goes against the fence with the molding laying flat on the base. - Scrap is to your Right. - Work piece is to your Left. - Don't forget to line up your laser guide with the mark on the long side of your cut. (This will be the bottom edge of your molding). - Make your Cut and keep your work piece from the left. Set aside the scrap piece from your right. 7. Cut your next piece using the same methods above. Don't panic when you place them up in the corner and they don't seem to fit right away. You have to adjust both pieces to get them against the wall and ceiling properly where the inside corner angle will come together just right. Having a helper to hold the opposite end is handy, but they must be flexible to your adjustments as you get both pieces fit up just right. (Pro Tip: Have your nail gun handy and ready to nail, so when you get your pieces just right, you can pop a nail in each piece to hold it up, or have a helper nail it as you hold it). You may want to scribe a line along the wall, or mark the wall with a laser level before nailing, to ensure your pieces are running straight and consistent at the same angle to the wall and ceiling. I hope this helps someone. Copy and paste into Microsoft Word and print it out to have next to your work station, and stick to the steps. Good Luck!
On the inside corners,😮 I believe you're backwards on which side of the molding goes against the fence. Eg- The left side of the inside corner should have the top of the morning going against the fence.
Perfect video wish I would have found this a week ago had to figure these out trial and error.. just a suggestion this is the only video I've seen to do this with a single bevel ALL other videos do this with a double bevel. Just a suggestion maybe add that to the title cause I searched and searched for a single bevel flat cut and ended up practicing on 50 cuts and lots of wasted expensive crown
I just cut a left inside corner, following his guide, bevel at 33.9, mitre at 31.6, top of moulding against the fence. This piece looks like the RIGHT end, not the left end.
oops, a little dyslexic on my part....it IS the left of the inside...In my mind I was think the left end of the cut piece. :) In the words of Forest Gump, I'm not a smaht man!
The flat cut method only works if your crown molding is cut at a standard angle. The bevel and angle of cut are different if your crown molding is symmetrical top to bottom.
Woodworking Beginner: This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw. (test is not for rough work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Does anyone know how to do this for coving held face down rather than face up? I thought it would be simple to reverse but after a few hours I’m feeling like an idiot, just can’t get it to work.
Followed your directions on what you explained for the outside angle works for the inside angle and you’re inside angle worked for the outside angle...
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Preparation is the key. For a week in advance you should practice cussing and swearing so the words come easily when the cutting starts. Oh and buy 2 to 3 times as much crown molding as you need so you have sufficient to finish the job as you are going to find you have the perfect angle on the short stub and the wrong angle on the long piece. Then when you finally get the cuts right you will find the corner is 88.4 degrees and not ninety. Better still tell your wife that you don't think crown molding suits your house.
I would rather dig a hole in concrete with a toothpick. the biggest pita ever
@@mmp4610 k. B. N. N
@@mmp4610 j. K
Best comment soooo true🤣🤣🤣🤣
This is the funniest thing ever. It's exactly how I feel today after trying to do mitre corners.
FINALLY someone showing beveled and mitered cuts. All these channels showing holding the piece upside down against the fence on a 12" tiny sample piece. Without a jig know how hard it is to keep a 10' piece on that fence for a good cut? Holding it flat and securing is 10x easier.
Outstanding explanation on this topic - if you are using a compound miter saw, this video covers, in simple, easy to follow step-by-step how to do the inside and outside corners. I watched a number of videos and this is the easiest to follow. I made a small recap of the video to be able to quickly reference it in the future, along with the video.
**Compound Miter Saw
Bevel: 33.9 degrees
Miter: 31.6 degrees
For the below, crown goes FLAT on the saw rather than against the saw and fence as if it were being put in place
Outside Corners
Left side of outside corner:
Swing blade to the left
Bottom edge of molding against fence
Right side of workpiece is your molding
Right side of outside corner:
Swing blade to the right
Top edge of molding against fence
Right side of workpiece is molding
Inside Corners:
Left side of inside corner:
Table swings right
Top of molding against fence
Left side of workpiece is what you keep
Right side of inside corner:
Table swings left
Bottom of piece against fence
Left side of workpiece is what you keep
Thank you!
Thanks
Very helpful... thx!
Wish I had found your video before the first 30 cuts, but I'm glad I did find it!
Have had this for 4 + years. I do high end finish carpentry and with the Freud LU91R012 12-Inch 72 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Sliding Miter Saw Blade it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe . I've had many fellow carpenters make positive comments after borrowing it. Pluses; Sturdy fence, great capacity, low deflection, work lights (Not a gimmick), great dust collection, still as smooth as when i first got it, easy tilt. Minuses ; my digital readout is not accurate(don't use it anyway), heavy.
Best DYI video I have ever watched. I am a once every 4-5 year crown molding guy andnusually forget everything. Made 8 cuts using his method of laying flat on saw and using compound miter saw with his recommended degrees of cut and bevel and all were 100% correct. Tips - clearly mark TOP then I use a digital laser tape measure so get very accurate measurements. Second you must visualize the left and right cuts in each inside or outside corner cut...he is not talking about the left and right end of the board. If you follow this thinking then you got it.
For anyone needing to take the easiest notes. Just screenshot the angle he cuts and insert a text in that pic if it's for right inside or left inside. Or right outside/left outside. Makes it 1000Xs easier to just reflect back on screenshots with text to set my bevel/miter cuts. Thanks for the video! Very, extremely helpful and to the point
Thanks a ton for the angles. I know for normal carpenters the flat angles of an outside edge of crown are probably second nature, but to a DIY-er that's tough to figure out. You did it for me thank you!
Absolutely the clearest and most helpful directions for crown moulding! Thank you for saving my sanity on this project!
This is the best I've ever found: " Miter Right, Top @ Fence, and Miter Left, Bottom @ Fence, both with unchanged bevel. RT and BL. Awesome."
Thank you! By far the best video I’ve watched for crown molding. Was able to finish crown in our bathroom while husband was at work! I wrote shortcuts directly on my workbench to reference (and check twice) for each cut! Ex. RO- Bevel left 33.9 ,Miter Right 31.6, Top on Fence, Save Right!
i’m very new to wood working and bought a compound sliding miter saw . my very first project was o make a new fireplace mantle. i didn’t have a jig to cut crown molding seated in place at the correct and decided to cut flat . your video helped me through my project. i have since made a jig to hold the crown molding in place on future projects. 😊
Thank you. Laying large crown molding flat and doing a little math (that is already done for you) vs. the jackwagon finish carpenters trying to hold stock at 45 deg by hand is a game changer. Over and over they talk about the "simple" way. Simple way to become a cautionary tale.
Thank you so much. My crown moulding cuts were all bad cuts and I was running out of material. I could not find out what I was doing wrong! I looked at over 20 RUclips videos and nobody seem to explain the cut you just did. Thank you for explainining it and posting this video. Great help!!
Thanks very much. Ill keep your video rolling for each cut.
This is one of the clearest and to the point video's I have seen yet on this subject. Was looking for "how to" for 4 1/2' molding laying flat for cuts. My saw does not have a tall enough fence. Thank you.
This was perfect for what I was searching for. Thank you. So many others skipped the basics of how, where, and why to place the molding.
Thank you! This is by far the best video for cutting crown molding on youtube. Appreciate this!
I have seen so many videos, and have always cut placing the crown on a 45 deg angle against the fence. This is so much more precise in my opinion. Thanks!
Hallelujah! Your clear and concise instructions were essential in helping me correctly cut my crown without having to buy a jig that I'll likely never use again. THANK YOU!
This is the first video I viewed which shows the alternative way to cut crown corners, i.e. laying boards flat. Knowing this (on my first project) would've saved me countless hours of trial and error trying to hold the crown in position using my relatively cheap mitre saw. I was ready to buy a new saw and jig for my new crown project till I learned this. Saved me $$, thanks!
Thank you for this video...it is the one that finally helped me figure out how to cut inside corners on crown molding using the lay it flat method. Miter Right, Top @ Fence, and Miter Left, Bottom @ Fence, both with unchanged bevel. RT and BL. Awesome.
Wow thank you for breaking that down quickly and easily! Soo helpful! All other videos I found never mentioned the bevel angle specifically which was messing me up. Thanks again!
I don't do this very often so I appreciate the brush up on what I need to do with the miter saw!! Thank you! Well done video!
Excellent Tutorial. Thank you, Rob
This has truly saved me from a major headache. I knew there had to be another way to do it besides the common method everyone else is using. To me this is much simpler and easier. Thank you!!!
Exactly what I have been looking for. I will need to take some good note on the compound miter starting from 1:47, thanks a lot.
You saved me a lot of time and money. Great instructional video! Thanks!
Kudos for the show-as-you-go tutorial with the saw and angle cuts.. unfortunately, beginners need the video, saw, and moulding to practice along with you!. In 60 seconds, our memories will self- destruct!🥴
This is the best video on this topic, especially for flat cutting with a compound miter saw. Great video!!!
Thanks, Best video I've seen for flat cutting crown
After watching this I went down to my workroom and made four template pieces. The two sides of both an inside and outside corner. I carefully labeled the table position "left 45/right 45" and if the piece was to the left or right of the blade. Now I can use these to recreate the needed cuts with less chance of getting something reversed or wrong.
FEAT Acrobatics god idea.
I meant to type good idea
Thank you so much you made it so much easier for these corners
Thanks for the video. I was able to cut the short pieces I needed using ur directions. I only have a small 7inch miter saw so cutting the crown flat was my only option.
Clear and easy to follow. Thank you!
By far the best video I've watched covering this topic. Thanx Bruh!😁
Best video on RUclips not kidding.
Thanks Mr. Rob this was very helpful!!!
Your video helps me a lot, thank you
This is the best video ever!! Thanks!!
Thanks, dude. Made my Saturday project a whole lot easier!
so clear and concise! thank you!! every cut i made was perfect 😂
awsome video - clear concise, best one I have viewed. The left and right side on the inside cut are however reversed (as in when he says the left side, he means right side, and when he say right he means left) - but this did help tremendously.
This is the best video I've ever seen thank you sir
How do the bevel measurements change if you are working with a vaulted ceiling? Also, how are the 31.6 and 33.9 measurements calculated?
would love to know the answer to this
extremely helpful thank you!!!!!!!!!
thanks for the video..! I had seen before, I like to use this method.. keep post
Thx Ron! very helpful
Awesome my man I’m gonna try it tomorrow
Great video Thank you
@woodworkersJournal - an excellent and very useful video. Posting it was a public service. How do you adjust these settings if your corners are not 90 degrees?
This is a great video, but you should include one caveat. The 31.6 and 33.9 work with the "standard" 52/38 deg molding, but does not work with other angled styles.
The molding I got for a project seems to be a 45/45 instead. Its not easy to eyeball the difference between 45 and 52, so I didnt really know. I laid a scrap piece inside a 90deg corner and moved it until it fit pretty flush, and then marked where the molding first touched the wall closest to the inside corner of the wall. Also marked where it touched the ceiling, closest to the inside corner again. I measured each, and they were each about 3.125 from the corner. Since the triangle I created had equal legs, and one angle was a 90, both the other angles were 45s.
In case anyone sees this - the numbers for 45deg molding at a 90deg corner are 35.3 miter, and 30.0 bevel. I think the instructions in the video still work as far as where to put the top of your piece, and which side of the cut you keep. There are also charts you can lookup online for angles other than 90deg in case your walls arent straight.
Excellent information!
I will definitely have to practice this.
Thanks for sharing this.
"SAWSET PROTRACTOR" is the most accurate miter finder out there. No Math. No gimmick.
Do the comparison.
UGH.....I'll never remember. Need a printable cheat sheet!
VERY GOOD THANK YOU I HAVE THAT SAW, I NEED TO TRY THIS
Awsome ya my miter saw only has a 7. 1/4 blade and its a sliding one now I can use it to do crown thanks
What happens when the corners are not 90? Which settings you changing? Or do you use a different method?
Great Job Nicely Done 👍🏽📐🔨
Thank you very much.
Огромное спасибо. Я с косым потолком задолбался, вы всё объяснили чётко. 🤝
I wish you talked about spring angle when flat cutting. The bevel and miter settings are determined by spring angle.
Dont need that here
Hi!
I have a smaller (7 1/4”) Kobalt, laser-guided compound single-bevel sliding mitre saw. Because the blade is rather small and the saw’s fence isn’t very tall I can’t spring my crown molding up against it for quick beveled cuts. I must flat cut everything and use the saw’s beveling capability to get my beveled cut angles correct.
Here’s my issue: I’m trying to find out the correct “bevel” setting for my blade for an outside 90 degree “bullnose” corner cut. Again, my saw will only flat-cut. I know I need to end up with three total pieces of crown molding (left side, pie-shaped transition piece and right side piece). I also know there will be four cuts at the 22.5 degree mitre setting. However, what should the bevel setting be for my blade? I’ve tried messing around with different settings (starting with 22.5 degrees) but my pieces never line up correctly when I go to put them up and place them around the outside 90 degree bull-nosed corner.
Any help would be MUCH appreciated.
Thanks!
Bill
Thanks for showing how & sharing that, and happy New Year
What's the math behind those angles? Could be helpful for my understanding. Thank you.
Am going to be putting crown moulding up along with picture rail and window apron.
Thank you so much for the video! So you can make all the basic crown cuts with a Single bevel?
I have the Dewalt 20v miter that I love but it is only single bevel. Any advice would help. Thank you for your helpful video!
The bevel was tilted to the left and never moved the bottom part was the one that was rotated left and right. So it seems if your saw tilts to the left your good follow the video. I'm getting a single bevel saw this week and have a project for installing crown ill be following his videos as well.
@@mrchillpill8625 wait 🤔 if you only have a single-bevel comp miter saw you'd have to flip your material upside down in order to make that other bevel cut. That's the whole concept of having a dual-miter comp saw. So one doesn't have to turn it upside down.
It took me several years to learn that
I've been trying this flat method and either my molding is messed up of my saw is junk. Not once has it actually worked. I wish I knew someone that could give me the numbers for fence cuts for inside corners
Thank you sir
I'm doing inisde corners in my bathroom. I tested this flat method on some scrap pieces from a previous job and here is what works.
Preliminary (Place a piece of tape at the top of the molding and write TOP on it)
1. Set the Bevel first at 33.9 degrees, with the blade tilted left. Set and Forget. No need to change Bevel during the process.
2. Inside Right Corner - Top of Crown molding goes against the fence with the molding laying flat on the base.
3. Move miter handle to the Right and set at 31.6 degrees.
- Scrap piece is to your Right.
- Work Piece is to your Left.
- Make your Cut and keep your work piece from the Left side. Set aside the scrap piece from your right.
4. Measure the wall from corner to corner.
5. Mark your work piece to be cut at that same wall measurement, measuring along the long side, which should be the bottom of the molding. Once step six below is set up, use the light or laser mark on your saw to line up with your measured mark on the long side.
6. Left Inside Corner - Bottom of Crown molding goes against the fence with the molding laying flat on the base.
- Scrap is to your Right.
- Work piece is to your Left.
- Don't forget to line up your laser guide with the mark on the long side of your cut. (This will be the bottom edge of your molding).
- Make your Cut and keep your work piece from the left. Set aside the scrap piece from your right.
7. Cut your next piece using the same methods above. Don't panic when you place them up in the corner and they don't seem to fit right away. You have to adjust both pieces to get them against the wall and ceiling properly where the inside corner angle will come together just right. Having a helper to hold the opposite end is handy, but they must be flexible to your adjustments as you get both pieces fit up just right. (Pro Tip: Have your nail gun handy and ready to nail, so when you get your pieces just right, you can pop a nail in each piece to hold it up, or have a helper nail it as you hold it). You may want to scribe a line along the wall, or mark the wall with a laser level before nailing, to ensure your pieces are running straight and consistent at the same angle to the wall and ceiling.
I hope this helps someone. Copy and paste into Microsoft Word and print it out to have next to your work station, and stick to the steps. Good Luck!
On the inside corners,😮 I believe you're backwards on which side of the molding goes against the fence. Eg- The left side of the inside corner should have the top of the morning going against the fence.
So, dumb question, and maybe it's already been asked. Why the odd angles that don't equal to 90 degrees when they are put together?
Perfect video wish I would have found this a week ago had to figure these out trial and error.. just a suggestion this is the only video I've seen to do this with a single bevel ALL other videos do this with a double bevel. Just a suggestion maybe add that to the title cause I searched and searched for a single bevel flat cut and ended up practicing on 50 cuts and lots of wasted expensive crown
I just cut a left inside corner, following his guide, bevel at 33.9, mitre at 31.6, top of moulding against the fence. This piece looks like the RIGHT end, not the left end.
oops, a little dyslexic on my part....it IS the left of the inside...In my mind I was think the left end of the cut piece. :) In the words of Forest Gump, I'm not a smaht man!
How do you like that Bosch saw?
What would the settings be for cutting the left/right side molding for a kitchen corner cabinet? It is 45 degrees not 90 degrees
The flat cut method only works if your crown molding is cut at a standard angle. The bevel and angle of cut are different if your crown molding is symmetrical top to bottom.
Awesome.
Watched a 100 time but I think I got it this time
What would the mitre and bevel be for a 45 degree inside corner?
Woodworking Beginner:
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw. (test is not for rough work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical angle square of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Thanks
My head hurts.. i'm gonna need to watch that another 10x before it begins to sink in.
Can you do a video on the inside 22.5
What about if walls aren't 90° what mitre cut will be then thanks.
Does anyone know how to do this for coving held face down rather than face up? I thought it would be simple to reverse but after a few hours I’m feeling like an idiot, just can’t get it to work.
Followed your directions on what you explained for the outside angle works for the inside angle and you’re inside angle worked for the outside angle...
I definitely need an inside corner... but ever time I cut it the only fit makes the bottom the top, and the top is the bottom
Why those 30 something measurements????
كم سعر المنتج
Sooo...when you want it on the right, just turn it to left of upside down when installing inside out to get it right on the left? Simple.
I'm I the only one that messed up finished cabinets crown following this? Because the outside corner angles did not match using this degrees 😒 😬
YOU LOST ME
This didn't work for us. Angles didn't line up on an inside 90 degree corner.
Gracie
Too bad you cant do this on a makita saw
You just confused me way more
This video was sooooo close to being perfect. Next time spend more time focusing on how you set up the molding before cutting. Top and bottom of what?
Not all miter saws have a bevel that goes left and right
The bevel never changed