Replace BRAKE PADS on Speed Queen Washer- Big Difference
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I was commenting on someone's video and got into a chat with RUclipsr @johnjacob1412 who suggested the issue I was having on my. washer was due to the brakes needing to be replaced- and it was an easy job. He really knew his stuff- and even gave me the part number.
I ordered what he recommended and this is the install. Not as easy as I thought it would be because I have never done this before, and there was not. much info out there on this "repair". What I can say, is that the machine is working much better. It locks any counterclockwise rotation of the tub and the clothes seem to agitate better.- they swirl in one direction. I bypassed the lid lock so I can watch the agitation cycle. Glad I did this. Didn’t know what I was missing.
If you want to change the brake pads on your washer (and you have already changed your auto's wiper brakes.......) this video is for you.
Rich
Ps thank you to @mandm275 for pointing out that I did not give the part number anywhere, so here it is : Speed Queen oem part # 735P3 
Хобби
Read description for why I did this repair.
Subscribed for the identical Speed Queen you have to mine...Here's wishing me luck in the morning with the drain pump.
Good luck. It shouldn't be too bad. Just don't touch the motor capacitor when you are in the area!
I don’t know how people get close up and clear videos of things like this. I have the worlds smallest tripod and it was still unable to fit. Sorry. I tried to crop in as best as I could.
Rich, Did you ever give the part #? Might be helpful. Good job! Thanks
The part number is 735P3. You were right, I didn’t list it, but at 0:18 in the video I show the part number and read it out. Thanks for pointing it out. I’ll put it in the description as well.
What was the problem when u replace brake pads on the he washer.
Someone commented that I had so much trouble with the transmission moving in both directions because my brakes needed to be replaced. I’m not sure if he was right, but I rigged my machine so it runs with the lid opened, and I see a big difference. Now as the agitator moves back and forth, the basket with clothes grabs in one direction so the basket slowly moves clockwise only about 3 inches per agitation and doesn’t go back in the other direction. It’s a one way slow spin of the basket, and all of the clothes now contact the agitator better.
Well done. Good night. A few questions. Do you use powdered detergent in this machine and how long did the machine last before changing the seals etc ? Machine age wise, when did you change the timer for the dryer ? Wouldnt it be better to just remove and flip the tub and replace the brakes since everything was out ? Thanks.
I’ll answer all your questions out of order. Never ever use powdered detergent. Only liquid. We got about 11 years out of the washer before it developed a leak. I put some silicone on the bottom of the tub and that fixed the leak for a year until it started again and I had to replace the seals and bearings. It absolutely would have been way easier to replace the brakes while I had the machine apart but I didn’t know I needed them. If you saw my other video, someone commented that the tub wasn’t locked in place because I needed new brakes. That made sense and it’s why I changed them. It made a big difference. Now the tub slowly spins clockwise as it’s agitating and locks counterclockwise. And I don’t remember anything about the dryer timer as to when or why I changed it. I definitely did because I have the old part. It must have been at least .6 years ago. I don’t even remember the symptoms. It wasn’t physically broken though. Thanks for watching
could you tell me what was going on before you replaced the pads? you just said you were having issue in the description. not really clear on what they were. thanks
In a different video where I had a leak and replaced the bearings and seal I couldn’t get the main bolt off because the transmission was spinning with the bolt. Someone commented that it was because I needed new brakes, and the old ones were allowing the transmission to slip. It’s hard to describe in words what the brakes do. I bypassed my lid lock so my washer runs with the cover up, so it was easy for me to see what impact the brakes have. That gives me an idea; I’ll make a short video showing what the brakes do and edit this post if you are interested to see. It’s hard to describe other than saying it allows the inner tub to rotate slowly in one direction only around the machine more thoroughly washing the load.
Why did they need replacing, what symptoms, tight drum , motor overheating?
Good question. The answer is hidden in the video description. It was hard for me to even find so I can’t fault anyone for not seeing it. It’s a long story so check out the description of this video, and search for my other video where I changed the bearings and seal. In a nutshell someone in the repair business responded to a question I had about replacing the seal. He commented and I responded that I already completed that job and had a lot of difficulty because my transmission wasn’t locked and I couldn’t undo a bolt on the spindle. He said I needed a new set of brakes and even gave me the part number. It was only .$20 for the part. So I did it and it makes a big difference. I didn’t take a before video because I didn’t know my machine was not functioning properly before. Read the description and if you have any questions let me know.
WOW i was told some SQ do not have a lid lock...
Anything can be bypassed. It used to not run when the lid was opened. But I bypassed that years ago.
I am looking for help with stuck brakes. my current issue is the brakes remain locked when the washer gets to the spin cycle. I have to turn the inner drum manually ccw and it will release and turn freely. Turning CW it will lock. Intermittently it tries to spin, the brakes are still locked, the motor goes off and on overload, and you can smell the belt burning. I turn if off, give the drum a push ccw, and it will run fine for a while. I question if the brake is designed to stay locked for the agitation cycle. And I would like to know what actually engages the brake. Is it the saw toot white plastic coupling?
I am disappointed I am having this prob on a 2017 machine
I wish I could help you but I'm not even sure how the brakes work even though I installed them in this video. I only replaced them because a guy who was clearly in the business watched a different video I posted (where I replaced the bearings and seal) and commented that my brakes needed to be replaced.
If you have the ability, post a video while you are having the problem and how you free the tub and ask for assistance in diagnosing the issue. I have had a lot of success that way. Good luck
same situation for my 2017 speed queen. what was the fix for you?
For me, I figured out you turn the drum one way and the brake locks, turn the other way it releases, which is a clever design. Also, the motor turns in one direction for agitate and the other direction for spin. The brakes lock when at the end of the spin cycle the motor stops causing the momentum of the spinning drum to lock the brakes by a wedging action. Then when the motor turns in the other direction for spin, that unlocks the brake if it is not wedged too tight. With the brakes locked the drum will stay stationary during the agitating cycle. Without the drum locked, the drum will rotate with the agitator. All I did, after changing the pump, belt, and spring was work the drum back and forth, then lock it lightly, then started a cycle and the drum unlocked for spin, locked for agitate and worked fine from that time forward. I think I was lucky and the instructions on lubing parts could be needed. My identical machine at my house is at least 10 years old and has never given any problem. It uses a ton of water, but is fast, and clothes don't smell musty when they come out.
@@adk1guy wow, thanks. so are you saying that you may have ok with not replacing all those parts? what do you think caused the break to stick? too heavy of load? too hot?
What is your take on the reliability and build quality of Speed Queen? You seem to have to do a lot of repairs on these and the internals look like any other brand machines.
Here's my take; 12 years ago bought my current house. Everyone leaves washer dryer- right? Nope. They wanted 1500 for the set. A couple of nice Samsung digital front loaders.
We said FU and went to our local appliance store. Not much around me. The place is called Atlantic appliance. Walked in. All high end front loaders with pedestals. Also viking stuff, subzero etc. We weren't looking For that. The salesman said if you want the best unit That doesn't break get a top loader and get these speed queen units. He said all the commercial laundromats use them.
Okay if you're not bored of reading by now we got them. I have 4 kids who were youngish 12 years ago. I personally do most of the laundry cause I only work a few days a week.
The machines have probably done an average of 2 to 3 loads a day for the last 12 years straight.
So what breaks. Well I wish the seal didn't leak. I had to replace that and it was a pain Although if I ever had to do it again it would be a piece of cake. Not many other problems. It was making a rubbing noise at first but worked fine. I made a video and somebody told me how to fix it.. The handles were breaking quite often. new ones were like three dollars. Those don't break any more. I'll tell you what doesn't break and that's electronics because there are none. I had to replace the timer on the dryer also.
But I would buy another in a heartbeat. Anything that runs so often for 12 years is a keeper. Get the most analog one you can find.
I easily bypassed the top lock so we can run the machine with the lid up, and I changed the max water level so it fills more. Thanks for the question and good luck
@@Samlol23_drrich How do you modify the water level to increase the max fill ?
@Dicofole that's a good question. I totally don't remember but I will look into it and revise this post as soon as I do. I'm sure I followed a RUclips video. Stay tuned......(it was worth doing) edit. Okay watch this guy's video. ruclips.net/video/VpYpILUZqrQ/видео.htmlsi=RqqAXk7qZFpa6S_A
Hi Rich, I’ve been watching a ton of SQ repair videos. I bought a commercial machine from a laundromat that I used to frequent, the owner was not repairing them anymore, put “out of order” signs on 3 out of 5 of the machines, so I managed to buy one of the last working machines for $100. It still has the coin machine on the top he took out the drawer, so I keep running the same 8 quarters through it. OMG what an upgrade from the crappy Kenmore someone gave me. Anyhow, it’s making a crazy squealing noise when the wash cycle starts, then everything runs fine. I think it needs a new belt. No leaks, pump is strong. Spin is good. I’m sure it’s a total dirty mess underneath. I soaked the tub/basket a couple times with hot water, citric acid, and oxy clean a few times, no leftover odors. I got a good deal, so putting some $$$ into it to repair/maintain it is ok with me. It’s hard to get a camera in there to show everything! This here video is the first I’ve ever heard of brake pads.
@@Samlol23_drrich Great, thanks :)